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Bukhansan National Park
North of Gyeongbokgung, Seoul appears to come to a rather abrupt end, with lofty mountains rearing up immediately behind the palace. The city did, indeed, once peter out here, but the “Economic Miracle” of the 1970s saw its population mushroom, and consequently Seoul’s urban sprawl pushed around the mountainsides. Development was, however, not as rampant as in other parts of the city, and Seoul’s northern quarters maintain a relatively secluded air, with some excellent walking paths stringing together many of the district’s temples, cafés, mountainsides and other sights.
Walking paths around northern Seoul
Many of Northern Seoul’s sights are accessible on a series of splendid walking paths, which can be tackled in sections, or you can complete the lot in one day. To do this you’ll need decent footwear, water and snacks, though the path does veer into civilization from time to time, so you’ll be able to stock up at mini-markets. Also remember to bring your passport (or other photo ID) for the Bugaksan section.
The best place to start is at Dongdaemun station (lines 1 & 4); come out of exit 1, turn back on yourself along the main road, then turn right at the major crossroads. To your right you’ll spot a small path – this is the start of the uphill slog along Seoul’s old city wall, which has been restored along this section. Follow this along and you’ll soon be in Naksan Park, a pleasant place with several good viewpoints overlooking the Daehangno area (see below). From here, press north again until you reach the main road near Hansung University station (line 4), another good place to start the walk. From here, you’ll have to use your own initiative to find the fastest, most pleasant way to the back of Sungkyunkwan University, where the forested path starts again – the easiest method is to head west down the main road to the Hyehwa Rotary roundabout, turn right, then walk for 1km or so.
Waryong Park starts just to the west of the university buildings, and constitutes the eastern entrance of Bugaksan mountain, the most challenging part of the walk (though it’s not really too tricky). This is where you’ll need your passport or other photo ID. The path drops you down in Buamdong, a good place for lunch – grab coffee and a slice of cake at Sanmotungi café, or some dumplings at Jaha Sonmandoo. The old city wall continues over the other side of the main road in Buamdong, and those with more energy can follow this to reach the peaks of Inwangsan, eventually dropping down somewhere near Dongnimmun station (line 3).
To the northeast of Gyeongbokgung are a couple of intriguing areas – the buzzing student district of Daehangno, and Seongbukdong, with its traditional garden, secluded temple and enchanting tearoom. Seongbukdong lies on the eastern slopes of Bugaksan, a mountain whose trails provide some superb views of Seoul. Beyond here, Seoul’s undulating northwestern districts have a lower population density, and a calmer atmosphere, than the northeast, with the quiet, hilly area of Buamdong becoming increasingly popular thanks to its assorted clothing boutiques and swanky restaurants, as well as a couple of superb galleries. Finally, the peaks of Bukhansan, within the world’s most visited national park, boast a range of historical sites and some excellent hiking paths.
대학로
With an artily sophisticated ambience, a near-total dearth of camera-toting tourists, and some of the cheapest guesthouses in Seoul, studenty Daehangno has become very popular with backpackers in the know. Literally meaning “university street”, it’s actually the name of the road that heads north from Dongdaemun market, but most of the action takes place in a tightly packed area around Hyehwa subway station, meaning that it’s also a good starting point for a trip to Changgyeonggung, one of Seoul’s nicest palaces.
The area has been one of the city’s main student zones ever since the opening of Seoul National University in 1946; while this has since moved south of the river, the presence of at least four more educational institutions keeps this place buzzing. It’s almost choked with bars, games rooms and cheap restaurants but has more recently attained national fame for its youthful theatre scene. Over thirty establishments big and small can be found dotting the side-streets east of Hyehwa station, but be warned that very few performances are in English. There are, however, regular free shows in the paved expanse of Marronnier Park (마로니에 공원), a short walk along the road from Hyehwa station’s exit two. Here performers take their first tentative steps to stardom, seeking to drum up custom for later performances or showcase their talents, and you can often catch short bursts of magic, music, comedy or mime, all going on at the same time.
창경궁 • 185 Changgyeonggung-ro • Mon & Wed–Sun 9am–5pm; free tours at 11.30am & 4pm • W1000; also on combination ticket • 15min walk from Hyehwa subway (line 4), 30min walk from Insadong, or bus #150 or #171 from Anguk station
Separated from Changdeokgung by a perimeter wall, Changgyeonggung may have little to actually see, but its history and the relatively natural beauty of its grounds make it possibly one of Seoul’s most pleasant palaces.
Changgyeonggung was built by King Sejong in 1418 as a resting place for his father, the recently abdicated King Taejong. In its heyday the palace had a far greater number of buildings than are visible today, but these suffered badly from fires and the damage inflicted during the Japanese invasions. Almost the whole of the complex burned down during the Japanese attacks of 1592, and then again during a devastating inferno in 1830. In 1762 the palace was the site of the grisly murder of a crown prince by his father (see box). When the Japanese returned in 1907, they turned much of the palace into Korea’s first amusement park, which included a botanical garden and zoo, as well as a museum – the red-brick exterior and pointed steel roof were very much in keeping with the Japanese style of the time, and pictures of this era can still be seen around the palace entrance. Almost all the Japanese-built features were tolerated by the local government for well over half a century, until 1983 when pretty much everything was finally ripped down – though the botanical garden still remains today (access included on palace ticket).
Considering its turbulent history, the palace is a relaxed place to wander around. The buildings themselves are nowhere near as polished as those in the Gyeongbok or Changdeok palaces, though some people feel that they look more authentic as a result; the history of each structure is chronicled on information boards. Be sure to look for Myeongjeongjeon (명정전), the oldest main hall of any of Seoul’s palaces – it was built in 1616, and somehow escaped the fires that followed. From here, a number of lovely, herb-scented paths wind their way to a pond at the north of the complex. Near the pond are a couple of dedicated herb gardens, while also visible are the white-painted lattices of the Japanese-built botanical garden.
성북동
Home to much of Seoul’s diplomatic corps, the hilly district of Seongbukdong has a secluded air with some low-key attractions, but it’s a pleasant place to spend a half-day, and the steep roads will give your calf muscles some definition. Chief among the sights are the Zen temple of Gilsangsa and the entertainment and dining complex known as Samcheonggak.
길상사 • 68 Seomjam-ro 5-gil • Temple daily 24hr • Free • 
kilsangsa.info • Hansung University subway (line 4), then take the shuttle bus, or it’s a 20min walk through a labyrinthine network of roads – the dearth of signage means that it’s best to ask for directions • Templestay W50,000; book in advance at eng.templestay.com
Uphill from Seongnagwon, the wonderful Zen temple of Gilsangsa was once one of Seoul’s most famous gisaeng houses of entertainment, but was converted into a Seon (the Korean word for Zen) temple in 1997; it now makes one of the most convenient places for visitors to Seoul to experience a templestay, though it’s only possible on the third Saturday of each month. Gilsangsa’s coloration is notably bland compared to most Korean temples, and as a result it looks at its best under a thin blanket of snow; winter is also the best time to take advantage of the little tearoom on the complex. Almost directly opposite the temple entrance, Hyojae is a tiny store selling superb Korean handicrafts.
The murder of Crown Prince Sado
In 1762, a sinister event occurred in the grounds of Changgyeonggung, one whose story is, for some reason, omitted from the information boards that dot the palace grounds – a royal murder. A young prince named Sado was heir to the throne of King Yeongjo, but occasionally abused his position of power, as evidenced by the apparently groundless murder of several servants. Fearing dire consequences if the nation’s power were placed into his son’s hands, Yeongjo escorted Sado to Seonninmun, a gate on the eastern side of the palace, and ordered him to climb into a rice casket; his son obeyed, was locked in, and starved to death. Sado’s wife, Hyegyong, held the secret until after Yeongjo’s death in 1776, at which point she spilled the beans in a book named Hanjungnok (published in English as The Memoirs of Lady Hyegyong). Sado’s son Jeongjo became king on the death of Yeongjo, and built Hwaseong fortress in Suwon to house his father’s remains. Jeongjo went on to become one of Korea’s most respected rulers.
Memoirs of a gisaeng
Many Westerners are familiar with the concept of the Japanese geisha, but few are aware that Korea once had something very similar. Gisaeng were female courtesans trained to entertain the rich and powerful from the Goryeo dynasty onwards. Girls chosen to be gisaeng received artistic instruction from the age of eight or nine, and though most found themselves retired after their late teens, some went on to become noted experts in dance, music or poetry. Gisaeng were employed by the state, and as such were also required to entertain the few foreign dignitaries or businessmen who entered the “Hermit Kingdom”. Most were based in Seoul or Pyongyang, cities that were also home to the most reputable gisaeng schools, while others found work in regional centres or at inns along major travel arteries.
Despite their frequent interaction with members of the elite, gisaeng were technically at the very bottom of the Joseon dynasty’s Confucian social ladder, their rank no higher than that of slaves. One of the few opportunities for advancement was to be taken as a concubine by a customer, but very few made it this far since gisaeng had to be purchased from the government at exorbitant prices. Over the centuries, however, more and more gisaeng came under the financial protection of patrons known as gibu. During the colonial period, almost all gisaeng were under the sponsorship of a gibu, but the Korean War and the economic boom which followed took their toll. Though the practice trickled on through the 1970s, it has since all but disappeared.
Among the most famous gisaeng was Hwang Jin-i, born in sixteenth-century Kaeson in what is now part of North Korea. Hwang was an entertainer of remarkable beauty and intellect who, in her spare time, created wistful poetry in the Korean style known as sijo. To date she has spawned one film, one TV series, and an eponymous novel; the latter is of particular note, having become the first North Korean publication to achieve critical success in the South.
삼청각 • 3 Daesagwan-ro • Daily 10am–10pm • Free shuttle bus (hourly 10am–9pm) from outside Youngpoong bookstore near Jonggak, or Gyeongbokgung east gate; alternatively, it’s a short taxi-ride from Hansung University station, Samcheongdong or Gyeongbokgung
Nestling in the foothills of Bugaksan are the pleasing wooden buildings of the Samcheonggak complex. This was built surprisingly recently – 1972, to be exact – and in the decades following its opening it served as a place of entertainment for politicians, businessmen and other folk from the upper echelons of Seoul society. Here they would wine and dine in style, entertained all the while by gisaeng (see above). The complex features a teahouse, as well as a rather expensive restaurant.
부암동 • Bus #7020 from Anguk subway (exit 1; head west to first bus stop), or #1020 from Gwanghwamun subway (just up the road from exit 2); 20min uphill walk from Gyeongbokgung subway – follow road flanking palace’s western wall, and keep going straight
Hidden from central Seoul by the mountain of Bugaksan, Buamdong is one of the capital’s quaintest and calmest corners. Recent years have seen its popularity explode, its fame propelled by modern Korea’s number one cultural catalyst, the television drama – ever since the picturesque café Sanmotungi was used as a set in hit drama The Coffee Prince, young Seoulites have been heading to the area in crowds, joined by the odd curious foreigner.
Despite its new-found fame, Buamdong retains a tranquillity that’s almost impossible to find in other parts of Seoul, as well as a smattering of galleries and excellent places to eat and drink. The area is perhaps most notable for its lack of high-rise structures, as well as what may be Seoul’s greatest concentration of hangeul typography – much of what you’ll see has changed little since the 1970s, predating the mania for Roman text. The most famous example by far, and the subject of countless photographs, is the logo of the Hanyang Ricecake Shop, starkly emblazoned in paint on a brick wall; you’ll come across it on the way to the superb Whanki Museum.
환기 미술관 • 63 Jahamun-ro 40-gil • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • W8000 • whankimuseum.org
The little-visited Whanki Museum is a shrine of sorts to the unfortunately named Kim Whanki, one of Korea’s first modern artists. In the 1940s, Kim proved a conduit between east and west, mopping up ideas from the Paris avant-garde movement while disseminating Asian techniques to a curious Europe. You may have to ask around to get to it – it’s located down a small slope from the main road.
북악산 • Hiking route daily 9am–5pm; last entry 3pm • Free • Bring passport, or other photo ID, to register at entrance; photography not permitted at certain points on trail • Western entrance at Changuimun gate in Buamdong; eastern entrance at Waryong Park, a taxi-ride or a 25min walk from Anguk station, and also accessible on local bus #8 from Hyehwa station
Rising up directly behind the palace of Gyeongbokgung, Bugaksan is one of the most significant mountains in Seoul. It provides some of the most glorious views of the capital, but for decades only soldiers were able to take them in, as the mountain trails were off limits thanks to the important building nestling on its southern slopes – Cheongwadae, official home of the country’s president. These protective measures were not without foundation, as in 1968 Bugaksan was the scene of an assassination attempt, when a squad of North Korean commandos descended from the mountain to try and assassinate then-president Park Chung-hee. Near the mountain’s eastern entrance, beside the gate of Sukjeongmun, you can still see a tree riddled with bullet holes – evidence of the shoot-out that occurred when the would-be assassins were rumbled. The mountain reopened to the public in 2006, but there’s still a substantial military presence here, and those wishing to take a hike must register with officials on arrival.
The hiking route across Bugaksan is 3.8km long, and though it gets rather steep at times almost anyone can tackle it. On the way you’ll see remnants of Seoul’s fortress wall, which once circled what was then a much smaller city. The first fortifications were built in 1395, at the outset of the Joseon dynasty just after the completion of Gyeongbokgung and Jongmyo, with the aim of protecting the new national capital. Most of the wall has now been destroyed, and this is one of the few places that you can still see it.
평창동
Just north of Buamdong is Pyeongchangdong, a low-rise district with a high-class air, having served as Seoul’s high-roller residential area of choice during the economic boom of the 1970s and 1980s. Most have now upped sticks and moved south of the river to Gangnam, Apgujeong and Jamsil, but those who favoured tradition over modernity stayed put, and have now been joined by hundreds of writers and artists. Indeed, it’s the endeavours of the area’s artistic fraternity that now form its main tourist draw, with dozens of excellent galleries to choose from, including the colossal Gana Art Center. Art aside, Pyeongchangdong’s hilly lanes make for excellent strolling territory, giving the few foreigners who make it here a chance to savour a relaxed atmosphere, with low-rise luxury houses, tree-clad hills, and the majestic, ever-present vista of Bukhansan National Park.
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Changgyeonggung
가나 아트 갤라리 • 28 Pyeongchang 30-gil • Daily 10am–7pm • Varies by exhibition; usually W3000 • ganaart.com • Bus #1020 or #1711 from Gyongbokgung subway (line 3), or take the free shuttle bus which leaves from Insadong’s Insa Art Center on the hour
Korea’s largest art gallery, the Gana Art Center nestles in relative obscurity, way up on the Pyongchangdong slopes. Designed by French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte (who also designed Incheon Airport), it’s a fabulous treasure-trove of modern art, with a delightful sculpture garden out back. The displays here include the works of notable international artists (which have, in the past, included Jean Miró and Roy Lichtenstein), as well as Korean artists from the early twentieth century.
북한산 국립공원
Few major cities can claim to have a national park right on their doorstep, but looming over central Seoul, and forming a natural northern boundary to the city, are the peaks of Bukhansan National Park, spears and spines of off-white granite that burst out of the undulating pine forests. Despite the park’s relatively small size at just 80 square kilometres, its proximity to one of the Earth’s most populated cities makes it the world’s most visited national park, drawing in upwards of five million visitors per year. While an undeniably beautiful place, its popularity means that the trails are often very busy indeed – especially on warm weekends – and some can be as crowded as shopping mall aisles, with hikers having to queue up to reach the peaks.
The national park can be split into north and south areas. The southern section – Bukhansan proper – overlooks Seoul and is home to the fortress ruins, while 10km to the north is Dobongsan, a similar maze of stony peaks and hiking trails. Both offer good day-trip routes which are easy enough to be tackled by most visitors, but still enough of a challenge to provide a good work-out.
Maps are available at all entrances (W1000), and larger signboard versions can be seen at various points en route. Most local hikers choose to wear proper boots, but unless it’s rainy a sturdy pair of trainers should suffice. You’ll have no problem finding a meal after a hike: all the entrances have plenty of restaurants, with pajeon, a savoury pancake, and makgeolli, rice beer, the favoured post-hike combo with Koreans.
Gupabal station (line 3), then bus #704 to Sanseong park entrance (10min)
The southern half of Bukhansan is best accessed through Sanseong, an entry point on the western side of the park. On the short walk to the clutch of restaurants that surround the entrance, you’ll see the park’s principal peaks soaring above; unless you’re visiting at a weekend, the hustle and bustle of downtown Seoul will already feel a world away.
It’s around two hours from the entrance to Baekundae (백운대), the highest peak in the park at 837m: routes are closed off in rotation to allow them time to regenerate – bilingual signs point the way. Around ten minutes into your walk you’ll find yourself at Daeseomun (대서문), one of the main gates of the fortress wall. From here, it’s a long slog up to Baekundae; once you’ve reached Yaksuam (약수암), a lofty hermitage, you’re almost there (and will doubtless be grateful for the presence of spring-water drinking fountains). Continuing on, the route becomes more precipitous, necessitating the use of steel stairways and fences. Having finally scaled the peak itself, you’ll be able to kick off your boots awhile and enjoy the wonderful panoramic views.
From Baekundae, the easiest route back to the park entrance is along the same path, though there are other options. One trail heads south, squeezing between some neighbouring peaks to Yongammun, another fortress gate. From here – depending on which paths are open – you can head downhill towards Jungseongmun, then follow the pretty stream to the park entrance, or take a half-hour detour along a ridge further south to Daedongmun. Those seeking a sterner challenge can head yet further southwest of Daedongmun to Munsubong peak (문수봉), then take the punishing up-and-down route back to the park entrance – from the entrance, the round trip via Baekundae and Munsubong will be a full-day hike.
SEOUL’S GUARDIAN MOUNTAIN
With its position overlooking Seoul, Bukhansan has played a significant role in protecting the city. In the second century a fortress was built during the capital’s earliest days as the hub of the Baekje dynasty. Sizeable fortifications were constructed during the rule of King Sukjong (r.1674–1720), a leader notable for his peacemaking abilities in a time of national and international strife: not only did he pacify the warring factions that threatened to tear the peninsula apart, but he also negotiated with the Chinese Qing dynasty to define the borders between the two countries as the Yalu and Tumen rivers. These borders remain in place today, albeit under the control of Pyongyang, rather than Seoul, and it was while the two halves of Korea were jostling for control of the peninsula during the Korean War that much of Bukhansan’s fortress was destroyed. Remnants of the wall can still be found, including much of the section that stretched down from the mountains to connect with Seoul’s city wall.
It’s also possible to exit the park at different locations – from Baekundae, a two-hour route heads east to Uiam entrance via the temple of Yongdeoksa; while from Yongammun, a trail heads downhill to Doseonsa, the park’s principal temple; and from Bogungmun – a gate just south of Daedongmun – a path drops down the Jeongneung valley to the entrance of the same name.
Mangwolsa or Dobongsan subway (both line 1), then an uphill 20min walk to the park entrances; area also accessible on new Ui LRT line to Bukhansan Ui station from Sinseol-dong (lines 1 & 2) or Sungshin Women’s University (line 4)
The scenery in the Dobongsan area is much the same as around Baekundae to the south – trees, intriguing rock formations and wonderful views at every turn – though the hiking options are less numerous. Most choose to scale the main peak (740m) on a C-shaped route that curls uphill and down between Mangwolsa and Dobongsan subway stations (each around 30min from Jongno 3-ga). It’s hard to say which direction is better, but most people start from Dobongsan. From this station, cross the main road, then go left along the perimeter of a dense network of ramshackle snack bars, then right up the main road. Whichever way you go, it takes just over two hours up to the gathering of peaks at the top; like Baekundae to the south of the park, the upper reaches of the trail are patches of bare rock, and you’ll be grateful for the steel ropes on which you can haul yourself up or down. Coming back down, you can take a rest at Mangwolsa (망월사), a small but rather beautiful temple originally built here in 639, before heading back into Seoul. Mangwolsa roughly translates as “Moon-viewing temple”, and was likely used for such purposes by the kings of the Joseon period from the late fourteenth century.