Alamy
Rakkojae, Bukchon
Seoul boasts a wide range of accommodation, with everything from five-star hotels to cheap-and-cheerful hostels. Those seeking high-quality accommodation have a great wealth of places to choose from, particularly around Myeongdong and City Hall north of the river, and Gangnam to the south, while budget travellers will find an increasing number of backpacker guesthouses. One interesting option popular with foreign travellers is to stay in one of the traditional wooden guesthouses north of Anguk station. Motels can form a cheap alternative to official tourist hotels, sometimes having rooms of comparable size and quality.
Almost all the big hotel chains have a presence in Seoul; along with independent local establishments, they offer all the usual creature comforts, though rooms can be rather small by international standards. Although motels are often used by local couples seeking private time, most have perfectly comfortable rooms with everything one could need – cable TV, hairdryers, shampoo, drinking water, 24-hour hot water in the bathrooms, free wi-fi, sachets of instant coffee and, occasionally, complimentary condoms. Needless to say, Korean motels won’t appeal to everybody, but any seaminess is kept behind closed doors, and even for lone women most are acceptable places to stay – indeed, those that can put up with the decor will find them Korea’s best-value accommodation option. Guesthouses known as yeogwan (여관) are more or less the same as motels, but older and less stylish; some have been given new leases of life as boutique hotels, though these tend to be poor value.
The city also has a huge number of hostels, which tend to be clustered in the areas that backpackers find most interesting – Hongdae, for drinking; Insadong, for sightseeing; and Daehangno, for those on a budget. Most hostels offer a choice of dormitories or private rooms, some en-suite, others with shared facilities. Pretty much all have fast, free wi-fi, and a simple jam-and-toast breakfast is usually included too. Lastly, Seoul has a range of serviced residences, which are particularly popular with business visitors: all offer daily rates, though there are considerable savings for those staying for a month or more.
Booking sites The main international booking sites often give substantial discounts: try 
trivago.com for hotels, and hostelworld.com for hostels. Sadly, the properties advertised in Seoul on airbnb.com tend to be overpriced, with many of the cheaper ones merely shoebox rooms in basic student accommodation, with the student prices multiplied by three. Seoul city operates a decent website listing some of the more modern guesthouses (stay.visitseoul.net). These days, many motels take advance online bookings, which is a real boon as such places typically only drop their prices in the late evening. By booking online through booking.com or any specialist Korean website, you can check in at a normal time and pay a normal rate.
Know your neighbourhood: where to stay in seoul
Seoul is a big city with a tremendously diverse range of accommodation spread across its various neighbourhoods – to find the ideal place to stay it’s wise to consider your budget, and what exactly you’d like to do in the city.
Gyeongbokgung and around There aren’t too many places to stay in the area surrounding the palaces, bar a couple of boutiques in the Seochon neighbour-hood, and the traditional wooden guesthouses of Bukchon Hanok Village.
Insadong and around Despite Insadong’s status as a tourist magnet, accommodation here is mostly in the cheap-to-midrange bracket – good value, and an excellent location for sightseeing.
Gwanghwamun and City Hall A number of five-star hotels can be found around Seoul Plaza and City Hall, near Deoksugung palace; it’s also convenient for the shopping area.
Myeongdong and Dongdaemun Myeongdong is Seoul’s busy shopping area, and has a wide range of accommodation, from flophouses to five-star luxury. Dongdaemun has plenty of accommodation, but demand from shopaholic Chinese and Japanese visitors keeps prices higher than they should be.
Northern Seoul The only place with any notable accommodation in Northern Seoul is Daehangno, which has a number of decent hostels.
Western Seoul Hotels and motels in the two student areas of Hongdae and Sinchon are horrendously over-priced, though Hongdae does boast some new hostels and boutiques – it’s now Seoul’s main backpacker area.
Itaewon Given the area’s popularity with foreigners, and its excellent nightlife scene, it’s surprising that there aren’t that many places to stay in Itaewon, other than a couple of higher-end venues.
Southern Seoul There are a great number of places to stay in Gangnam, including five-star hotels and a few motels, though you’ll be far from most of Seoul’s sights here. Apgujeong, Seoul’s fashion capital, has surprisingly few places to stay, and those that exist tend to be overpriced.
hanok guesthouses
In Bukchon Hanok Village, a tranquil city sector north of Anguk subway station, you’ll find some of Seoul’s most interesting places to stay – here you can spend the night in traditional Korean housing known as hanok (한옥). These are wooden buildings with tiled roofs, set around a dirt courtyard – a style that once blanketed the nation, but is rarely seen in today’s high-rise Korea. The generally bed-less rooms – you sleep Korean-style in a sandwich of blankets – are kept deliberately rustic and heated in the winter with the underfloor ondol system; most, however, provide modern indoor toilets and free wi-fi. There are also a few “proper” guesthouses dotted around (see “Gyeongbokgung and around” reviews), as well as some charming homestay options bookable through the district authorities (homestay.jongno.go.kr); the latter cost in the region of W50,000 per room.
Prices In general, motels in Seoul cost W30,000–60,000 for a double room, while a dorm bed in one of the city’s hostels will set you back around W20,000. For hotels, the sky’s the limit, with most top places charging a W450,000-plus rack rate for their cheapest doubles, and cheaper places starting at around W90,000, though you can haggle these down at most times of year. When booking, bear in mind that the ten percent tax levied on hotel rooms is not always included in the quoted prices; in higher-end establishments, you’re also likely to be hit with an additional ten percent service charge. The prices given for the accommodation listed here are for the cheapest double room in high season unless otherwise stated: breakfast is not included at motels and rarely at hotels. For dormitory accommodation, we have quoted the price per person.
Wi-fi Almost everywhere has wi-fi these days, bar the cheapest motels. However, some upper-end hotels levy a ridiculous daily charge of around W20,000 for wi-fi access – a problem that, perversely, gets worse the higher one climbs up the price ladder. Motels, on the other hand, often have free computer terminals for you to use.
Aroma Motel 아로마 모텔 7 Jahamun-ro 
02 735 8641; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. Motel that’s seedy but cheap, and a good place to sleep if you’ve been over-drinking in the adjacent Seochon area. W40,000
Bukchon Guesthouse 북촌 게스트하우스 20-17 Bukchon-ro 010 6711 6717, bukchon72.com; Anguk subway; map. Simple yet comfortable rooms set around a pleasingly authentic hanok courtyard, within easy walking distance of two palaces and Insadonggil. The friendly owners will even pick you up at nearby Anguk subway station if you phone ahead. Breakfast included. W100,000
Bukchon Maru 북촌 마루 152 Changdeokgung-gil 02 744 8571, bukchonmaru.com; Anguk subway; map. Presided over by a delightful, English-speaking local couple, this hanok guesthouse is a homely affair, with granny whipping up breakfast (included), and guests encouraged to get to know each other. A lovely choice. W110,000
Haemil Guesthouse 해밀 게스트하우스 15-14 Yulgok-ro 10-gil 070 8950 1546, haemilguesthouse.com; Anguk subway; map. A touch more expensive than most hanok guesthouses in the area, though just about worth the extra expense on account of a wonderful location facing Jongmyo shrine, and rooms decorated with even more attention to detail. Prices drop by W20,000 during the week, and a Korean breakfast is included (though they’re more like Korean lunches; you can ask for a Western one instead). W120,000
Hide & Seek Guesthouse 하이덴식 게스트하우스 14 Jahamun-ro 6-gil 02 6925 5916, hidenseek.co.kr; Anguk subway; map. Set in a building dating from the Japanese occupation period, this is a truly charming place – the family who runs it makes every effort to please, especially with their yummy breakfasts (W7000 extra). The rooms are cosy, and there are sun loungers on the wide patio area, which is a good place for an evening drink, too. Prices drop by W20,000 or so during the week. W80,000
Rakkojae 락고재 49-23 Gyedong-gil 02 742 3410, rkj.co.kr; Anguk subway; map. The most authentic of Bukchon’s hanoks. Not only is it an 1870s original, but its owners serve traditional food for dinner – a little like a Japanese ryokan. Studded with maple and pine trees, the courtyard is divine, with precious few concessions to the modern day; it’s best appreciated at night, when soft light pours through the paper doors. Traditional breakfast included. W300,000
Sopoong Guesthouse 소풍 게스트하우스 10-4 Hyoja-ro 7-gil 010 6833 9159; Anguk subway; map. A tiny place with only three rooms, this hanok guesthouse has proven a real winner with international guests. The owner will do everything possible to ensure that guests are happy – the breakfasts are particularly nice. W85,000
Doulos 돌로스 호텔 22 Supyo-ro 18-gil 02 2266 2244, douloshotel.com; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Excellent value, comfy rooms, friendly staff and a convenient location… this mid-range hotel ticks all the boxes, even if it’s a little tricky to find: take a few steps south of Jongno and you should be able to make out its sign. Usually gives discounts if booking online. W120,000
Hostel Korea 11th 호스텔 코리아 11th 85 Donhwamun-ro 070 4705 1900, cdg.hostelkorea.com; Anguk subway; map. High-rise hostel just down the road from the palace of Changdeokgung. It’s a trendy place with a café-like lobby area, and it’s often full on account of its popularity with tourists from other Asian countries. The rack rates for private rooms are ridiculous – they usually go for W45,000 on weekdays. Dorms W22,000, doubles W105,000
Icon 아이콘 호텔 20 Samil-daero 32-gil 02 766 3438; Anguk or Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Many motels have restyled themselves as hotels in the Ikseondong area, some more successfully than most. This one is great value, especially since it’s pretty much the only one to serve breakfast (included in rates, and not at all bad); it’s also bookable on international accommodation engines. W40,000
Insa Hostel 인사 호스텔 48 Insadong 14-gil 02 714 0644, insahostel.co.kr; Anguk subway; map. Hostel in the very thick of the Insadong action. Though it could occasionally benefit from more attentive service, the rooms are fine enough. Dorm beds W26,000
Noble 노블 관광 호텔 13-3 Yulgok-ro 6-gil 02 742 4025, noblehotel.co.kr; Anguk subway; map. One of the least seedy options in this convenient, highly atmospheric area – unlike many of its neighbours, rooms here are not rentable by the hour. Some are rather small, but they’re quiet, stylish and kept at the right temperature. W60,000
Orakai Suites 오라카이 스위츠 18 Insadong 4-gil 02 6262 8888, orakaihotels.com; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Plush serviced residence, with rates starting at W6,500,000 per month for a single-bedroom suite. Also on site are a gym and swimming pool, as well as a rooftop driving range for golfers. The location, just off Insadonggil, is hard to beat. W300,000
Sewon Yeogwan 세원 여관 166-2 Jongno 3-ga 02 2265 2127; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. This old-fashioned yeogwan has some of the cheapest private rooms in the area – if you can find it, that is, as it’s tucked away down an alley. W25,000
Sheel 쉴 모텔 10 Supyo-ro 18-gil 02 2278 9993; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Something of a “high-end” love motel, filled with all sorts of interesting quirks. Lace curtains billow from the ceilings, and some bathrooms are decked out in the style of a sauna; there’s free coffee and popcorn at reception. You can usually cut the price in half if checking in after 9pm. W100,000
Sunbee 호텔 썬비 26 Insadong 7-gil 02 730 3451, hotelsunbee.com; Anguk subway; map. Tucked into a side-street near Insadonggil, this hotel remains fair value despite a recent doubling of prices; aim to pay lower than the rack rates. Very professional staff will lead the way from the fancy lobby, which features a pleasant café; the rooms themselves can be quite large, and some have views of Inwangsan. W160,000
Venue G 베뉴지 호텔 117 Cheonggyecheon-ro 02 2223 6500; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. One of precious few hotels overlooking the Cheonggyecheon creek, this has passed through several owners of late – and at least three different names. Only twin rooms face the stream, and these are the hotel’s best in any case. Book online for discounts. W175,000
First Stay 퍼스트 스테이 호텔 37 Namdaemun-ro 1-gil 02 756 1500; City Hall subway; map. Affordable option in the City Hall area, with rooms which are undeniably a little on the small side, but certainly cosy enough for a good night’s sleep. Breakfast included. W70,000
The Plaza 더 플라자 119 Sogong-ro 02 771 2200, www.hoteltheplaza.com; City Hall subway; map. Directly facing City Hall and adjacent to Deoksugung, this hotel could hardly have a more central location. In addition, a thorough overhaul in 2010 made its interior one of the most attractive in the city, with immaculate rooms and superb on-site restaurants – even the corridors exude a sleek beauty. Try to grab a room on one of the north-facing upper floors for some wonderfully Manhattanesque views. W360,000
Westin Chosun 웨스틴 조선 106 Sogong-ro 02 771 0500, echosunhotel.com; City Hall subway; map. Serious effort has been put into making this the most appealing hotel in central Seoul, with one of Korea’s best swimming pools. An energetic group of knowledgeable staff preside over rooms that eschew the typical Korean concrete blockiness for plush carpets and curved sofas – even the bathrooms are graced with modern art, and a free mobile phone will be yours for the duration of your stay. Prices often fall to W250,000. W440,000
Metro 메트로 호텔 14 Myeongdong 2-gil 02 752 1112, metrohotel.co.kr; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. A modern, squeaky-clean hotel away from the bustling Myeongdong main roads, where the staff are friendly and breakfast is included. Rooms are fresh and have free wi-fi, though views are generally poor – ask to see a few. W140,000
Seoul’s top ten places to stay
Best wooden guesthouse Rakkojae
Best rooftop sunbathing Hide & Seek
Best swimming pool Westin Chosun
Best for traditional Korean style The Shilla
Best love motel Sheel
Best on-site sauna Dormy Inn Garosugil
Best views (and bathrooms) Park Hyatt
Best on a budget Bong Backpackers
Best serviced residence Orakai Suites
Best morning coffee Urbanwood
Mido 호텔 미도 22 Toegye-ro 10-gil 02 7770088, hotelmido.com; Hoehyeon subway; map. File this one under flashpacker – you can pay a lot more for a lot less in the Myeongdong area, and this is a decent mix of hotel and hostel. From the hostel side, you’ll have neat little breakfasts (included) and informative staff, and from the hotel side you can expect attractive rooms, many of which have computers. W80,000
Philstay Metro 필스테이 메트로 5F 19-3 Myeongdong 10-gil 02 771 8787; Myeongdong station; map. Good-value option in Myeongdong, with friendly staff, a mix of cosy doubles, singles and triples, and a super location right in the thick of the shopping area. Breakfast included. W60,000
Royal 로얄 호텔 61 Myeongdong-gil 02 756 1112, seoulroyal.co.kr; Euljiro 3-ga subway; map. Golden hues and comfy beds characterize the rooms at this towering hotel, which rises near the cathedral at the centre of Myeongdong’s sprawling shopping district. The “Grand Kitchen” on the 21st floor is a great place to eat, and there are free shuttle buses to and from the airport and station. W220,000
The Shilla 더 신라 249 Dongho-ro 02 2233 3131, shilla.net; Dongguk University subway; map. Tucked away in a quiet area on the eastern access road to Namsan, this hotel is characterized by the traditional style of its rooms and exterior. The lobby and restaurants are a luscious shade of brown, as if they’ve been dunked in tea, though the common areas can often be a little busy – this is one of Seoul’s most popular conference venues. The rooms themselves are five-star quality, if a little overpriced, and feature genuine Joseon-era antiques. W480,000
Bong Backpackers 봉 배크패커스 3 Seonggyungwan-ro 5-gil 010 3388 8898; Hyehwa subway; map. This building has been a hostel for donkey’s years – formerly a rather loveable flophouse, it’s now relatively swish, with the basement rooms given a new lease of life via the gift of epoxied walls and moody lighting. The owner speaks English very well and breakfast is included in the rates, which are about as low as Seoul hostels go. Dorms W12,000, twins W40,000
Golden Pond 소오픈 게스트하우스 8 Changgyeonggung-ro 35-gil 02 744 9000; Hansung University subway; map. Hyehwa can be a bit busy for some, but just one subway station further out, the Hansung University area provides a calmer and more Korean experience. This is a great choice in this up-and-coming neighbourhood, with cheap private rooms – all en suite – and engaging staff. Also has single rooms (W25000), and rates include a simple breakfast. W30,000
Ann Guesthouse 안 게스트하우스 157 Yanghwa-ro 010 9084 0837, annguesthouse.co.kr; Hongik University subway; map. Terrific location, peering over Hongdae subway station. Despite being in the centre of Seoul’s nightlife, it’s a quiet and relaxed place, presided over by a friendly couple. Free laundry service, and private rooms sleeping three to six for around W30,000 per person. Dorms W20,000
Come Inn 컴인 20-10 Wausan-ro 21-gil 070 8958 7279, comeinnkorea.com; Hongik University subway; map. A winner for its dorms and private rooms alike, this female-only guesthouse draws an otherwise mixed bag of travellers – though most emerge feeling as though they’ve been staying at a local’s home. The place is spick and span, which seems a little odd when the country’s biggest nightlife area lies just outside. Dorms W22,000, doubles W60,000
iGuesthouse 아이 게스트하우스 10-14 Wausan-ro 23-gil 070 8779 6161, seouliguesthouse.com; Hongik University subway; map. While Apple probably wouldn’t be too happy about the name, guests usually come away more than satisfied with this hostel, which is the best of a glut in this residential part of Hongdae. Dorms are more spacious and better appointed than most of the competition, and staff keep abreast of the area’s goings-on. Dorms W21,000
iHouse Chin Chin 아이 하우스 친친 24-11 Yeonnam-ro 7-gil 02 334 1476; Hongik University subway; map. Something quite different, near trendy Yeonnamdong – with no signboard, and hidden behind foliage in an alley off a side-road, you’ll need a decent command of maps to locate this secretive guesthouse. They’ve a range of artistically designed rooms, and an excellent breakfast is included in the rates. W75,000
Marriott Executive Apartments 매리어트 아파트 8 Yeoui-daero 02 2090 8000, marriott.com; Yeouido subway; map. A good choice for those who have business to do in Yeouido, with immaculate rooms and a decent on-site restaurant. Rates go down for those staying longer than one month. W200,000
Urbanwood Guesthouse 어번우드 게스트하우스 5 Wausan-ro 29-gil 010 8320 0833, urbanwood.co.kr; Hongik University subway; map. Run by an affable, English-speaking local who whips up a mean cup of coffee as part of breakfast (included), this is the most pleasant of the Hongdae station area’s many boutique-style operations. Its few rooms are decorated along seasonal colour schemes. Only the triple is en suite, and it’s usually booked out weeks in advance. The rooftop is a grand place for evening drinks. W100,000
G Guesthouse G게스트하우스 14-38 Bogwang-ro 60-gil 02 795 0015; Itaewon subway; map. Ticking off the backpacker and budget sections (hitherto not something Itaewon did well), this is an excellent addition to the area. The dorms (some female-only) are kept meticulously clean, and feature the same industrial-chic stylings as the rather pricey private rooms. The roof “garden” is a good place to mingle, and they throw the occasional barbecue; breakfast is also included in the rates. Dorms W19,000, twins W95,000
Grand Hyatt 그랜드 하야트 322 Sowol-ro 02 797 1234, seoul.grand.hyatt.com; Noksapyeong subway; map. A favourite of visiting dignitaries, this is one of Seoul’s top hotels in more ways than one – perched on a hill overlooking Itaewon, almost every room has a fantastic view through floor-to-ceiling windows. There’s a fitness centre, an ice rink and squash courts, as well as swimming pools, indoors and out. W410,000
Hamilton 해밀톤 호텔 179 Itaewon-ro 02 794 0171, hamilton.co.kr; Itaewon subway; map. Long an Itaewon landmark, and a better place to stay since recent refurbishments, countless foreigners have made this their Seoul home. Staff are professional, and guests can make use of an outdoor pool in warmer months. W135,000
IP Boutique IP부티크 221 Itaewon-ro 02 3702 8000, ipboutiquehotel.com; Itaewon subway; map. A curious “boutique” (it’s many floors high), whose rooms have all been individually decorated, with different colour schemes for each floor. They’re mercifully a lot better than the nightmarish lobby, which looks something like the innards of a giant handbag, with a few swing-chairs and medieval statues. W260,000
Cappuccino 호텔 카푸치노 155 Bongeunsa-ro 02 518 5489, hotelcappuccino.co.kr; Eonju subway; map. Located on a crest just north of Gangman station and its surrounding mess of high-rises, this is a super mid-range choice. There’s great coffee available in the lobby, though even more enticing is the rooftop bar, which provides simply superlative views over the wider Gangnam area, so you might want to be back home before sunset. Oh, and the rooms themselves – small, but absolutely fine. W105,000
Dormy Inn Garosugil 도미인 가로수길 119 Dosan-daero 02 518 5489, dormy.co.kr; Sinsa subway; map. New mid-range option at the southern end of boutique-lined Garosugil, with rooms that are really quite stylish for the price. Of even more note is the on-site spa-sauna, elements of which evoke the feeling of a Japanese onsen. It’s worth paying a bit extra for breakfast. W145,000
Gangnam Stay 강남 스테이 호텔 15-4 Nonhyeon-ro 87-gil 02 568 6200; Yeoksam subway; map. Holy moly, these rooms are huge – and this is a relatively cheap place in super-crowded Gangnam. While fantastic for those with cats to swing, they’re also highly attractive spaces, especially those with carpetted or tile-effect flooring. W95,000
Gold Hill Guesthouse 골드힐 게스트하우스 2F 60 Gangnam-daero 136-gil 070 4114 5887, goldhillguesthouse.com; Nonhyeon subway; map. Gangnam does have hostels and cheap places to stay, but they often consist of converted – or existing – student rooms. This is one of the better ones, with small dorms (some with just a single bunk-bed inside), twins resembling Korean bedrooms, clued-up staff and a free brekkie. Dorms W30,000, twins W65,000
Grand Parnas 그랜드 파르나스 521 Teheran-ro 02 555 5656, ihg.com; Samseong subway; map. Designed with exceptional attention to detail, this Intercontinental hotel belies its age with regular overhauls. The rooms are fresh and tastefully decorated in pleasing tones, with modern furniture. Some great restaurants can be found on the lower floors (which are part of the Coex complex), and guests have access to a gym and indoor swimming pool. W450,000
Seoul’s cheapest sleeps
For the most budget-friendly accommodation in Seoul, you just try to find a cheap hostel, right? Wrong. The city’s cheapest sleeps are in spa-like venues known as jjimjilbang (찜질방), which are also among the most uniquely Korean places to spend a night. Almost entirely devoid of the seedy reputations that may dog similar facilities abroad, jjimjilbang are large, round-the-clock establishments primarily used by families escaping their homes for the night, businessmen who’ve worked or partied beyond their last trains, or teenage groups having a safe night out together. They typically cost W9000 or so in Seoul, and consist of a shower and pool area, a sauna or steam room, and a large playschool-style quiet room or two for communal napping; most also have snack bars and internet terminals. Upon entry, guests are given a locker key for their shoes, another for their clothes, and matching T-shirts and shorts to change into – outside clothes are not allowed to be worn inside the complex, though it’s OK to wear underwear beneath your robe. All must be sacrificed on entry to the pools, which are segregated by gender. The common rooms are uniformly clean but vary in style; some have TVs and hi-tech recliner chairs, others invite you to roll out a mini-mattress, but all will have a floorful of snoring Koreans. You’re never far from a jjimjilbang, but the two most popular with foreigners are Dragon Hill, a huge facility just outside Yongsan station, and Itaewon Land, a homelier place in Itaewon.
Park Hyatt 파크 하야트 606 Teheran-ro 02 2016 1234, seoul.park.hyatt.com; Samseong subway; map. First things first: this is Korea’s best hotel. Designed in its entirety by Japanese firm Super Potato, its class will already be evident by the time you’ve entered the lobby, which is actually on the top floor, together with a gorgeous little pool. Rooms employ an almost Zen-like use of space, and the hewed-granite bathrooms were voted “Asia’s best place to be naked” by Time magazine. Staff are experts at making themselves available only when needed, and those on a repeat visit will find their preferred room temperature, TV channels and light level all ready and waiting. Bliss. W520,000
Yaja Gangnam Nonhyeon 호텔 야자 강남논현 6 Bongeunsa-ro 37-gil 050 5068 5030; Eonju subway; map. This is a good example of the change currently underway with Korea’s “love hotels” – the younger generation have far less conservative attitudes to sex than their parents, and as such accommodation catering to carnal desires is becoming more stylish and less seedy in nature. Given the fact that such rooms are generally booked several times a day, it’s hard to give a price – to get the one stipulated here, you may have to arrive after 9pm, or use the room for six hours only. W60,000