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Hongdae
Western Seoul is best known for the huge university area which spreads north from the Hangang: it’s a hectic and noisy district, with more than 100,000 students squeezed into a tight band of land. Some studying gets done, of course, but the area is better known for its extracurricular activities – the streets here are stuffed to the gills with bars, nightclubs, karaoke rooms and cheap restaurants, and the action continues all night. The focus of attention is the area around Hongik University, known as Hongdae – by day this is a pleasantly artsy district, which morphs each evening into Korea’s most hectic nightlife zone.
The universities of Hongik, Yonsei, Ehwa and Sogang lie at the peripheries of the areas most commonly known as Hongdae, Sinchon and Edae – and each district has its own distinctive atmosphere. Though there are precious few tourist sights as such, there’s nowhere better to get an understanding of what really makes Korea tick.
To the northeast of Hongdae, the unprepossessing Seodaemun district is home to two contrasting sights – the eponymous prison which hosted innumerable atrocities during the Japanese occupation, and Inwangsan, a small mountain with a spider’s web of fantastic walking trails. South of Hongdae flows the mighty Hangang River, along whose banks Seoulites jog, cycle, picnic or simply chill, while Yeouido island is one of Seoul’s main business hubs as well as housing Korea’s National Assembly.
서대문
Those who’ve seen the gate of Dongdaemun may have some idea what to expect of Seodaemun – its name means western gate and, unsurprisingly, it is the site of Seoul’s old western entrance. The city has now, of course, expanded much further west, and the gate itself is long gone – there is still one gate-like structure visible in the area, near Dongnimmun subway station, though this is a mere independence monument. The main reason to visit the district, however, is to see the notorious Seodaemun Prison, or to wander round the trails and temples of Inwangsan, a mountain rising up just to the north.
서대문 형무소 역사관 • 251 Tongil-ro • Tues–Sun 9.30am–6pm • W3000 • Dongnimmun subway (line 3)
During the occupation of Korea (1910–45), umpteen prisons were built across the land to house thousands of activists and those otherwise opposed to Japanese rule, of which Seodaemun Prison was by far the most notorious. The prison became a symbol of the power of the Japanese, whose brutality during occupation ensured the Korean resistance movement rarely blossomed into anything more than strikes and street protests, though on March 1, 1919, the Declaration of Independence was read out at Tapgol Park, an event that achieved nothing concrete but kept the Korean spirit of independence alive.
Today, the red-brick wings of the prison’s main barracks have been reopened as a “history hall”, with photos of the prison during occupation filling its rooms and corridors, together with written material from the period, and some televised documentaries. Few of these exhibits are in English, but the eerie vibe of the buildings themselves needs no translation, from the tiny vertical booths used for “coffin” torture to the lonely outpost where executions were conducted. The execution area has one particularly poignant feature, a pair of poplar trees, one inside the compound wall, and one just outside. The latter – termed the “wailing tree”, on account of the number of prisoners who clung to it as a last means of resistance – is a large, healthy specimen, as opposed to the tree inside the compound, which is said to be kept short and stunted by the souls of those departed.
Japanese occupation
If you’ve done any sightseeing in Seoul, you’ll no doubt have come across information boards telling you when, or how often, certain buildings were burnt down or destroyed by the Japanese. The two countries have been at loggerheads for centuries, but the 1910–45 occupation period caused most of the tension that can still be felt today. During that age of empire, Asian territory from Beijing to Borneo suffered systematic rape and torture at the hands of Japanese forces, but only Korea experienced a full-scale assault on its national identity. Koreans were forced to use Japanese names and money, books written in hangeul text were burned and the Japanese language was taught in schools. These were merely the most blatant measures of the many employed by the Japanese – others were barely perceptible, and used as subliminal attacks on the Korean psyche. One example was the almost surgical removal of the tallest trees in Korean cities, which were ostensibly chopped down for their wood: straight and strong, they were said to symbolize the Korean mind, and were replaced with willows, which drifted with the wind in a manner more befitting the programme. The most contentious issue remains the use of over 100,000 comfort women, who were forced into slave-like prostitution to sate the sexual needs of Japanese soldiers, and have yet to receive compensation or an official apology.
hunting Hidden Seoul in “ant village”
Seoul presents an almost relentlessly modern face to the world, and though the progress of both the city and Korea as a whole has been admirably uniform in international terms, certain pockets of poverty still stand out. One such place is “Ant Village”, or Gaemi Maeul (개미 마을), a district little changed in decades, despite its fairly central location. While not quite a shanty town, as some locals like to describe it, the dilapidated, semi-rural atmosphere of this small residential area forms an almost shockingly stark contrast with the rest of the city. In recent years, it has started to draw young, camera-toting Seoulites curious to see this odd facet of their city, and some of the buildings have been pimped with funky paintings. Gaemi Maeul sits on the western flank of Inwangsan, and can be accessed by a path from the mountain; however, it’s far easier to walk or take local bus #7 there from Hongje subway (line 3).
One piece of information not conveyed on any signboards, in any language, is the fact that the prison was not only used by the Japanese: though independent, South Korea only became democratic in the late 1980s, and until then the prison was used to hold political activists and other enemies of the state. It was finally closed in 1987, immediately after the first fully democratic elections. Also kept off the information boards is the role played by local collaborators during resistance, or any details of how independence was actually achieved: it was simply part of the package in Japan’s surrender to the United States.
인왕산 • Daily 24hr • Free • Dongnimmun subway (line 3), then it’s a 15min walk uphill to Guksadang
Just north of Seodaemun Prison rise the craggy peaks of Inwangsan. While Inwangsan is less visited than the crowded Bukhansan range, it contains more of tourist interest, including a number of temples, some Shamanist shrines, and one of the longest sections of Seoul’s old fortress wall (for advice on how to turn it into a longer wall-hike). Inwangsan’s main sight is the shrine of Guksadang (국사당), a boulder-surrounded prayer hall that hosts at least three Shamanist ceremonies known as gut (굿) each day, giving visitors a convenient opportunity to take in this lesser-known facet of Korea’s religious make-up.
The peak of Inwangsan (338m) lies a further 1km hike uphill from the shrine, and from here the massif’s spider web of routes continues further north. As with other mountain routes in Seoul, everything is well signposted and it’s almost impossible to get lost; the military base near the top can, however, get in the way at times. In dry weather, a sturdy pair of trainers should suffice to reach the peak.
홍대
Hongik University and its environs are far more commonly referred to as Hongdae, thanks to the Korean tendency to take the first syllable of the name and add the dae from daehakkyo, which means university. Nomenclature aside, this is one of the edgiest districts in the whole country, teeming with young and trendy people at almost every hour. The area only truly comes into its own after dark, its hundreds of bars and clubs buzzing with activity every night of the week. During the daytime, it’s fun to explore the streets lined with small shops selling stylish and secondhand clothing, and there are quirky cafés on every corner. As with Itaewon to the east, Hongdae’s area of interest has spread of late, stretching all the way from Hapjeong to the south to newly trendy Yeonnamdong in the north.
Just to the east, the atmosphere in the university district of Sinchon (신촌; pronounced “Shin-chon”) is a little earthier than in neighbouring Hongdae. It’s best visited at night, when the surrounding side-streets are splashed with neon and filled with barbecue smoke. Sinchon is also the centre of Seoul’s small lesbian community, most likely due to the presence of Ehwa Women’s University a few hundred metres to the east.
A little further east again is Ehwa Women’s University, more commonly referred to as “Edae” (이대; pronounced “ee-day”), whose 20,000-plus students make it the world’s largest institution of female learning. It is also Korea’s oldest female-only university, and broke ground by educating Korea’s first female doctor and lawyer. The main campus itself is also worth a look for its mishmash of architectural styles – there are a couple of Gothic-style buildings, augmented by a new wing designed by French architect Dominique Perrault. Outside the south gate, the area is packed not so much with bars and clubs, as is the case with most universities, but with hundreds of cheap shops selling clothes, shoes, make-up and fashion accessories.
놀이터 공원 • Hongik University subway (line 2), or Sangsu subway (line 6)
Hongdae University itself specializes in the arts, a fact that’ll be most evident to the visitor in Nolita Park – actually a triangular wedge of ground with almost no greenery – which plays host to everything from Beatles impersonators to choreographed hip-hop dancing. At weekends, the park is home to an interesting flea market, where local students sell handmade earrings, bangles and other such trinkets.
연남동
Seoul has its fair share of trendy areas, but one of the best – and most relevant to overseas visitors – is Yeonnamdong, effectively a suburb of Hongdae without the crowds and mass-market chaff. Centered on Dongjin Market, which comes to life on weekends and specializes in jewellery, its various alleyways are pleasant places for aimless wandering; it’s possible to get a different taster of this by walking the old Gyeongui railway stretch, now converted into a lengthy park. There are plenty of places to stay here, though unfortunately the eateries tend to be either dull and functional, or overpriced copy-and-paste affairs.
Walking the old Gyeongui rail line
In 2009, a section of the Gyeongui rail line was pushed underground, eventually becoming part of what is now the Gyeongui-Jungang subway line. The area that the overground tracks once lay on has since been slowly turned into a park of sorts, and it makes for fantastic strolling territory when the weather agrees. Officially known as the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, though there’s not really any forest, it’s often referred to by Koreans as “Yeontral Park” – a play on Yeonnamdong (a district through which the line passes) and Central Park.
The easiest place in which to access the park is Hongdae, where exits 3–7 of Hongik University station all come out on or near the stretch. However, you can walk pretty much all the way from Hyochang Park station (line 6) to near Gajwa station (on the aforementioned Gyeongui-Jungang line) – at almost 5km in length, with roads to cross from time to time, it’ll take an hour or more of your time, and a lot more if you’re tempted to pop into the many little restaurants and cafés dotted along the route.
절두산 순교성지 • 6 Tojeong-ro • Daily 24hr • Free • Hapjeong subway (lines 2 & 6)
On a small hill overlooking the Hangang, the Jeoldusan Martyrs Shrine commemorates the many Catholic Koreans who lost their lives because of their faith. Despite the staggering number of neon crosses searing the night skies of present-day Seoul, the country has not always been so tolerant of Christians – in 1866 there was a royally sanctioned purge of thousands of Korean Catholics, who had started to proliferate thanks to the efforts of European missionaries (some of whom were also murdered). Pope John Paul II visited the shrine in 1984 and canonized 103 of the martyrs; Mother Teresa visited the following year, and in 2014 Pope Francis beatified a further 123 victims of the slaughter.
여의도
An island in the Hangang may sound nice, but you’d do well to banish any romantic visions before arriving in Yeouido. Meaning something akin to “useless land”, it lay barren for years before finally undergoing development during Park Chung-hee’s economic reforms in the 1970s. Progress came fast, and little “Sweet Potato Island”, as it’s nicknamed on account of its shape, is now one of Korea’s most important business districts, not to mention the home of its National Assembly and the 63 Building, formerly the tallest structure in Asia. However, as Yeouido is manifestly a place to work, rather than live or go out, at weekends and in the evenings it has some of the quietest roads in the city. Most of the northern fringe is now a riverside park, which is a favourite picnicking place for families at weekends and on warm evenings, while cycling is fun here at any time of year. There’s also a great open-air swimming pool here in the summer. Just to the south of Yeouido is Noryangjin and its atmospheric fish market, while west along the Hangang is the recently redeveloped islet of Seonyudo, a popular draw for Seoulites wishing to stroll or cycle.
63 빌딩 • 50 63-ro • Observation deck daily 10am–10pm • W13,000 • Aqua Planet daily 10am–10pm • W21,000 • 
63.co.kr • Shuttle buses (every 20–30min; free) from Yeouinaru (line 5) or Yeouido subway (lines 5 & 9)
A short walk south of Wonhyo bridge, the 63 Building is one of the largest and most notable of Seoul’s innumerable towers. A distinctive golden monolith 249m in height, it was the tallest structure in Asia when completed in 1985, though had already lost the title by the time the Olympics rolled into town three years later – today, it’s not even in the national top ten. Right at the top of the building, the stylish sixtieth-floor observation deck and gallery provide predictably good views of Seoul, while lower levels house the Aqua Planet aquarium, home to over twenty thousand sea creatures.
순복음 교회 • 15 Gukhwa-daero 76-gil • Services most days; check website for details • english.fgtv.com • National Assembly subway (line 9)
With a membership exceeding one million people, the almost sinfully ugly Full Gospel Church is by some measures the largest church on earth. Obviously, not all the congregation comes along for prayers at the same time, but to meet the needs of Seoul’s huge Protestant population there are no fewer than seven separate Sunday services, translated into sixteen languages in a dedicated foreigners’ section. This is quite a trip, whatever your denomination, since most Sunday services see more than ten thousand people pack into the building, creating something of a football crowd atmosphere on the way in. On occasion half of the congregation ends up in tears, as Korean pastors have a habit of ratcheting up the rhetoric.
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The banks of the Hangang
Hanging along The Hangang
From its source in the Geumgang mountains of North Korea, the Han River – known in Korean as the Hangang (한강) – moseys along for over 500km before emptying into the West Sea. Close to its end it passes through Seoul, and cleaves this great city almost perfectly in two. Despite being the major waterway of one of the world’s largest cities, the Hangang is almost entirely devoid of traffic, with nary a vessel to be seen. The reason for this is that part of the river delta, west of Seoul, belongs to North Korea – any vessel attempting to make the voyage out to sea would likely be blown to smithereens.
In central Seoul, however, the river continues to play an integral part in daily city life. Despite being a kilometre wide, it’s crossed by an astonishing number of bridges – 28 and counting in Seoul alone. Most were built in the 1970s and 1980s during Seoul’s rapid economic expansion; one unfortunate side effect is that both river banks – rare pieces of flat, usable land in congested, mountainous Seoul – are now home to colossal elevated highways. This may sound like the stuff of urban nightmares, but beneath the concrete and hulking lattices of steel lurks the very heart of Seoul, where many of the city’s residents spend their evenings and leisure time – proof of Seoul’s open-all-hours nature, at any time of day or night you’ll see locals riding their bikes, puffing and panting on exercise equipment, going for a run, or having a picnic. However, the river and its banks also offer up a whole raft of other possibilities, the best of which are detailed here.
Coffee and cocktails Six bridges now have stylish cafés at their northern and southern ends, providing great views of the river and the teeming bridge traffic. They’re a little tricky to get to, and unless you’re on a river walk they’re best approached by taxi; all are open daily from 10am to around 2am, making them equally good spots for an evening cocktail. The Dongjak bridge cafés are particularly recommended, since they provide great views of the sunset and the Banpo bridge fountain shows.
Cycling The Hangang is the most popular spot for cycling in Seoul, and a pedal along the grassy river banks constitutes one of the city’s most pleasurable and picturesque activities. The main route runs for a whopping 21km between World Cup Stadium to the west, and Olympic Park in the east. Bikes can be rented from various points along the river, including several in Yeouido Park, for around W3000 an hour.
Fountain shows Banpo bridge, located between the Seobinggo and Express Bus Terminal subway stations, plays host to some eye-catching fountain shows from April–Oct. Jets of water burst from the bridge for ten minutes at noon, 2pm, 4pm, 8pm and 9pm (more shows at weekends); the night-time shows are particularly recommended, since the fountains are illuminated in bright colours.
Picnicking On balmy summer evenings in Seoul, the Hangang’s banks are packed with locals barbecuing meat, throwing back beer and supping soju on mats known as dotjari (돗자리). These mats, and disposable barbecue sets, are sold for a pittance at most convenience stores close to the river – or just amble along the river looking curious, and you may well get an invite to a dotjari party.
Swimming There are seven open-air swimming pools along the Hangang, with those on Yeouido easiest to reach for foreign visitors (see map). All are open 9am–8pm from June–Aug, and entry costs W5000; note that they may be closed during bad weather.
노량진 • 688 Nodeul-ro • Daily 24hr; auctions 4–6am • Noryangjin subway (lines 1 & 9)
Just south of Yeouido, the mind-boggling Noryangjin fish market is the place to come for seafood, though it remains well off the radar for most foreign visitors. During the evening the place is particularly picturesque – under strings of bright lights, you can wander around whole soggy acres of shells, seaworms, spider crabs and other salty fare. Much of the goods on offer will be unfamiliar to the average Western traveller, but fortune favours the brave; unless you have suitable cooking skills and a home to repair to, bag up your goodies and take them up to one of the second-floor restaurants, whose chefs will do the necessary preparations for a surprisingly reasonable price. Prime time at Noryangjin market is early morning, when noisy fish auctions are held.
선유도 • Daily 24hr • Free • Seonyudo subway (line 9), or walkable from Hongdae and Hapjeong over Yanghwa bridge
A tiny island just west of Yeouido, Seonyudo was, until recently, the site of a gargantuan water treatment plant. The city authorities felt that the land could be put to better use, and in 2009 a newly gentrified Seonyudo got a new lease of life as the place to come for a picnic or a stroll. It has since become extremely popular, especially at weekends, when you’ll see Seoulites arriving in their hundreds for a spot of cycling, rollerblading, or a family meal.
문래동 • Mullae station (line 2)
Seoul is full of hipster-friendly areas these days, but Mullaedong is far more distinctive than the others on account of its history as a metalworking area. The smell of metal, and shavings left on the pavement, indicate that many of the workshops are still going strong, with a particular abundance south of Mullae station; come out of exit 7, turn left, and the main area is on your left after the first road you cross. There are a couple of good restaurants and cafés hereabouts, and even – this is fantastic, though it seems coincidental – a live music spot specializing in heavy metal.