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Story of the Blue Star
Clubs pumping out techno, trance and hip-hop to wiggling masses, noisy live jazz and rock joints, neon-tinged cocktail bars in the bowels of five-star hotels, and a nascent craft beer scene – Seoul’s nightlife really has come of age since being shaken up by an increase in demand for two particular alcoholic drinks. First came the makgeolli craze – for decades young Koreans pooh-poohed this rice beer, but the delicious drink has been given a new lease of life and is now sold across the city, sometimes at bar-restaurants dedicated to the stuff. More recently, thanks to the arrival of some small-scale microbreweries, a whole generation of Koreans is now enjoying craft ale for the first time.
Not long ago, drinking in Seoul was pretty much a male-only affair, taking place in restaurants or at a “hof”, the once-ubiquitous faux-Western bars that are now being replaced by more authentic venues. Things have changed (though the hofs are still around if you need them), and there’s a pleasing variety to what’s on offer.
Dugahun 두가헌 14 Samcheong-ro 
02 3210 2100; Anguk subway; map. A charmingly characteristic venue to fall into for a glass of wine, set as it is in a revamped hanok building. Their selection runs the gamut from under W70,000 to well over W1,000,000 a bottle, augmented by fine European cuisine from the kitchens. Some of the views disappoint, so choose your table carefully. Mon–Sat noon–4pm & 6pm–midnight, Sun noon–4pm.
Hand & Malt 핸드앤몰트 12-2 Sajik-ro 12-gil 02 720 6258, 
thehandandmalt.com; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. They’ve gone for super-polished rather than spit-and-sawdust at this brewpub, the best such place in the wide Gwanghwamun business district. Brews vary, but keep an eye out for the one incorporating the ingredients of sujeonggwa, a cinnamon-heavy Korean punch. Mon–Fri 6pm–1am, Sat 3–11pm.
Jeon Daegamdaek 전대감댁 7-17 Jahamun-ro 1-gil 02 735 0723; Anguk subway; map. An integral part of the newly trendy Seochon district, this bar-restaurant sells a great range of makgeolli for W4000–8000 – try the slightly sour Baedari brand (배다리), once beloved of ex-president Park Chung-hee. It’s great for meals, too; most opt for the eponymous savoury jeon (전) pancakes. If there’s room, head to the courtyard area at the back – an achingly beautiful place to drink, with occasional glimpses of the Seoul night sky. Daily 11pm–midnight.
Baekseju Maeul 백세주마을 10 Ujeongguk-ro 2-gil 02 0000; Jonggak subway; map. Presentable bar-restaurant from the creators of baekseju, serving local bar-food – entire meals, in other words – to go with it. It’s also one of the few places in town where you’ll find ihwaju (이화주; W29,000); something like evaporated makgeolli, it’s pleasantly gloopy. Daily 5pm–2am.
Brew 3.14 브루 3.14 39 Donnamunno 11-gil 070 4178 3014; Anguk subway; map. What a pleasant addition to the Anguk neighbourhood this little place is – somewhere to wash down a craft beer with a few slices of tasty pizza pie (from W8000). Daily 5pm–midnight.
Shimmy Shimmy 시미시미 39 Samil-daero 30-gil 010 9049 8393; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Good choice among the many new Ikseondong drinking holes, with a faintly Boho atmosphere, soju for W4000 (or try the tasty Hallasan variety from Jeju for W1000 more), beer for W5000 and good Korean bar snacks. Mon–Sat 6pm–1am.
Story of the Blue Star 푸른별주막 17-1 Insadong 16-gil 02 734 3095; Anguk subway; map. Though technically a restaurant, this artily decorated hanok–style venue really comes alive in the evening. Though still highly atmospheric, it has gone downhill since a change of ownership, and their range of flavoured makgeolli has dwindled, but you can still choose from mulberry leaf or aronia berry (W12,000 for a large bowl). You’ll need to order at least one dish. Daily 6–11pm.
Know your neighbourhood: Where to go out in seoul
Koreans love going out, whether it’s with family, colleagues or friends, making Seoul a truly 24-hour city – day and night, year-round, its streets are a thrilling merry-go-round of noise, which ramps up as evening approaches and stays at a maximum until the early hours. Each area of Seoul has its own particular flavour, with Hongdae by far the busiest. Its streets are saturated with bars, clubs and restaurants, and full every day of the week from early evening onwards. Towards midnight the crowds are swelled further with clubbers, who get the last subway of the day to Hongdae, party all night, then slink off home as dawn breaks. Almost as busy at the weekend is Itaewon, which has some of the best bars, clubs and restaurants in the capital. It has become very trendy of late, and is also Korea’s most popular LGBT+ district, with some excellent bars catering to Seoul’s ever-growing pink community. Also full of cheap yet interesting bars is Sinchon, one subway stop from Hongdae, and studenty Daehangno, which is busy every evening (though most people drift elsewhere as midnight approaches), while Samcheongdong has a few relaxing places to wine and dine in. South of the river, Gangnam has a couple of good clubs, with trendy bars aplenty in nearby Apgujeong.
Neurin Maeul 느린 마을 2F 26 Euljiro 5-gil 02 6030 0999; Jonggak subway; map. The Neurin Maeul makgeolli brand has spotted a gap in the market, and run with it – they’ve dressed their tasty brew up to the nines as a boutique label, and are now selling it in myriad forms (including seasonal flavours; most W8000 per serving) in this highly presentable restaurant-bar. You’ll have to buy some food, but it’s very good too. Daily 11.30am–11pm.
Pierre’s Bar 피에르스바 30 Euljiro 02 317 7183, pierregagnaire.co.kr; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. Adjoining the superb Pierre Gagnaire restaurant at the top of the Lotte Hotel, this stylish bar is a firm favourite with international businessmen. Despite the modern yet opulent surroundings, and the sky-high food prices next door, drinks aren’t that dear – beer and spirits start at W13,000. Daily 6–11pm.
Bar Off 바오프 67-2 Changgyeonggung-ro 27-gil; Hyehwa subway; map. Up near the university entrance, this is one of the few places in Seoul to have somehow contravened Korea’s smoking laws – not even the owner seems to know how it has survived when most shisha bars have fallen by the wayside. Have a smoke (W10,000), and a cheap cocktail (most W4000). Daily 6pm–2am.
Oneul, Wine Hanjan 오늘, 와인한잔 240-7 Changgyeonggung-ro, 02 741 7786; Hyehwa subway; map. One of Korea’s big recent student trends has been a prevalence of bar-restaurants whose names include the ultra-low prices of their cheapest food and drinks (typically W3900). “Today, a Glass of Wine”, however, sells house plonk for the same price (yes, W3900), yet is infinitely more refined in style than its brethren – one could even (shock, horror) call it classy. The food’s very cheap too. Daily noon–3am.
Seopidongpa 서피동파 21-5 Daemyeong-gil, 02 766 3007; Hyehwa subway; map. Get into the Korean student swing of things at this simple place. The kimchi cheese pancake is a good choice for food (W15,000), and most varieties of makgeolli – of which they have many – cost W5000 per bottle. Daily noon–3am.
Bar Da 바다 11 Hongik-ro 3-gil 02 334 5572; Sangsu subway; map. Getting to this bar is an adventure in itself – finding the entrance, crawling up the steep steps, then back outdoors to navigate what probably used to be a fire escape for the final leg to the top. Once you’re there, it’s wonderful: a broodingly dim, candle-studded hideaway for a nice drink. Beers go from W4000, and they’ve plenty of single malts from W8000. Daily 7pm–3am.
Samgeori Pocha 삼거리포차 70 Wausan-ro; Sangsu subway; map. Technically a restaurant, though an integral part of Hongdae’s nightlife. After a dance or a drink, Koreans love to eat (and drink a little more), so you may well find yourself dragged along to this rustic-looking place, where raw fish and steaming broths are on the menu, and the tables are littered with empty soju bottles. Daily 6pm–late.
Thursday Party 썰스데이파티 14 Wausan-ro 17-gil 02 322 0063; Sangsu subway; map. This bar-chain originated way down south in Busan, but it has proven a hit in Seoul too – cheap drinks (cocktails from W3800), no entry fee, bar games (including beer pong), and plenty of opportunity to mingle. What more could you want? Daily 10am–4am.
Vinyl 바이닐 61-1 Wausan-ro 02 322 4161; Sangsu subway; map. Get takeaway cocktails from the window of this small bar, where Pina Coladas and Sex on the Beach are served in what appear, at first glance, to be colostomy bags. Such ingenuity brings the price down – just W5000 for a cocktail. It’s a great place to drink too, if you can find a seat free, or just swagger down the street with your booze-pouch. Mon–Thurs & Sun 4pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 4pm–2am.
Bungalow 번갈로 8 Itaewon-ro 27-gil 02 793 2344; Itaewon subway; map. There are drinking options aplenty in this loungey, multilevel bar – sup sangria on the swing-seats, drink martinis (W10,000) in the sand pit, have a romantic glass of wine on a candle-lit table or kick back with a beer on the outdoor terrace. Daily 4.30pm–3am.
Craftworks Taphouse 크라브워크스 238 Noksapyeong-daero 02 749 2537; Noksapyeong subway; map. One of the initial drivers behind the recent surge in local demand for craft beer. Their signature brews are all named after Korean mountains, including Geumgang Dark Ale, Halla Golden Ale, Seorak Oatmeal Stout and the Jirisan Moon Bear IPA. Daily 11am–1am.
Damotori 다모토리 31 Sinheung-ro 070 8950 8362; Noksapyeong subway; map. One of the best makgeolli bars in Seoul – the mak-menu is laid out geographically, showing you exactly which part of Korea your chosen hooch hails from. The best way to pick a bottle (W5000–11,000) is by using their ridiculously good-value sampler sets – W3000 for five cups of makgeolli, selected to range from light to heavy. These cups, and the bottle you end up choosing, are served in handmade pottery – quite splendid. Food’s good, too. Daily 6pm–1am.
Flower Gin 플라워진 250 Noksapyeong-daero 02 412 1983; Noksapyeong subway; map. Part florist, part gin joint, this tiny place is up there with the most distinctive bars in Seoul. Come drain a Hendrick’s with a slice of cucumber and a freshly cut flower. Mon, Wed & Thurs 2pm–midnight, Fri–Sun noon–midnight.
A Korean night out
A “proper” Korean night out has long followed the same format, one that entwines food, drink and entertainment. The venue for stage one (il-cha) is the restaurant, where a meal is chased down with copious shots of soju. This is followed by stage two (i-cha), a visit to a bar, where beers (W3000–10,000) or cocktails (from W7000) are followed with snacks (usually large dishes intended for groups). Those still able to walk then continue to stage three (sam-cha), the entertainment component of the night, which usually involves a trip to a noraebang room for a sing-along, and yet more drinks. Stages four, five and beyond certainly exist, but few participants have ever remembered them clearly.
For a more relaxed night out, Seoul has many options for alfresco alcohol consumption. The capital’s ubiquitous twenty-four-hour convenience stores – which in warmer months tend to be surrounded by plastic chairs and tables for customer use – make for one of Seoul’s cheapest nights out, and can be just as good for meeting locals as the city’s bars. Indeed, the choice of local liquor is often better at convenience stores than the average bar. Geonbae!
Magpie 맥파이 244-1 Noksapyeong-daero 02 749 2537; Noksapyeong subway; map. Started by a beer-curious expat, this little brewery has seen so much demand that the chain just keeps on spreading; there are already branches in Hongdae, and on Jeju Island, and bars around the country are stocking their excellent beers. The pizzas are splendid, too. Daily 3pm–1am.
Prost 프로스트 26 Itaewon-ro 27-gil 02 796 6854; Itaewon subway; map. This multi-floor drinking venue behind the Hamilton Hotel has been full to bursting almost every night since it first opened. Sassy staff, a global range of beers (including some of their own), and a bunch of people to rub shoulders with – whether you like it or not. Bring ID. Daily 11.30am–2am.
Tap Public 탭 퍼블릭 244 Itaewon-ro 02 797 4999, tappublic.com; Hangangjin subway; map. Craft beer pub in the burgeoning Hannamdong area. The USP of their IPA is that you can pour the beers yourself, and pay by volume – drink as much, or as little, as you like. Daily noon–2am.
The Wolfhound 울프하운드 128-6 Bogwang-ro 59-gil 02 749 7971, wolfhoundpub.com; Itaewon subway; map. If you’re feeling homesick, this Irish-style pub isn’t a bad choice – they sell a bunch of good beer, and it’s also a fine place to eat. Daily noon–2am.
Hop Mori 합머리 15 Dosan-daero 11-gil 02 544 7720; Sinsa subway; map. The best brewpub south of the river, with the creations of owner Troy firing from the taps – try the almost coconutty Busan Brown. Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 3–11pm.
Muwol 무월 23 Gangnam-daero 102-gil 02 552 9280; Itaewon subway; map. This industrial-chic saloon is a good bar choice in the Gangnam station area, especially if you like makgeolli – they mix the stuff with fruit juice (the strawberry-banana one is awesome), and even Hawaiian yoghurt. You’ll need to buy food too, but it’s fairly priced (from W5000). Daily 11.30am–11.30pm.
Seoul’s clubs can be pretty wild – the scene isn’t quite as big as in Tokyo or Beijing, but every weekend youngsters head in droves to Gangnam, Hongdae or Itaewon, then stagger home bleary-eyed at dawn. Note that you’ll need to show photo ID of some sort to get into most of these places, even if you look well over twenty – a driving licence should suffice.
Club Lux 클럽 럭스 19-12 Wausan-ro 21-gil 010 7341 5150; Hongik University subway; map. Hip-hop club that’s not quite as packed as some of its neighbours, but still pretty darn busy at weekends, especially with exchange students. Drinks are cheap, too, and every night is Ladies’ Night until 1am; entry usually W10,000 after 10pm on weekdays, and W20,000 at weekends. Thurs & Sun 10pm–4am, Fri & Sat 10pm–6am.
Gogos 고고스 12 Wausan-ro 17-gil 02 337 8083; Sangsu subway; map. Let’s cut to the chase here – this is one of Hongdae’s prime meat markets, with a good mix of Koreans and foreigners, cheap drinks, a fun vibe and a W5000 entry fee on weekends. Tues–Thurs & Sun 8pm–2am, Fri & Sat 6pm–6am.
M2 클럽 엠투 20-5 Jandari-ro 02 3143 7573; Sangsu subway; map. Focusing on electronica, this is the area’s largest nightclub, which manages to rope in the occasional top international DJ. It’s packed to the gills at weekends, when you may spend more than an hour waiting in line to get in. Entry W10,000–20,000. Tues–Thurs & Sun 9.30pm–5am, Fri & Sat 9.30pm–7am.
B1 클럽 비원 179 Itaewon-ro 02 749 6164; Itaewon subway; map. Underground club with a decent sound system, and usually DJs who know how to make the most of it – a mix of house, techno, electronic and more. With lounge areas and snazzy decoration, it’s far classier than most dance venues in the area – at the beginning of the night, at least. W10,000–20,000 entrance fee at weekends. Daily 7pm–4am.
Made 클럽 메이드 221 Itaewon-ro 02 749 6164; Itaewon subway; map. Large club with a split personality – there are zones for EDM and hip-hop, and you’re free to switch between them whenever the mood takes you. Entry W20,000. Thu–Sat 10pm–6am.
Octagon 오크타곤 645 Nonhyeon-ro, 02 516 8847, octagonseoul.com; Hakdong subway; map. Seoul’s most popular club at the time of writing, this EDM venue has state-of-the-art light and sound systems (and even a gourmet chef), and regularly hauls in superstar DJs from across the globe – Nic Fanciulli and Coyu have both played here. Entry is W30,000 on weekend evenings, and you’ll have to be dressed up. Thurs–Sat 10pm–7am.
Korean drinks
Though Koreans largely favour beer and imported drinks, the country has more than a few superb local hooches, many of which go down very well indeed with the few foreigners lucky enough to learn about them.
Baekseju (백세주) A nutty, whisky-coloured concoction, about the same strength as wine. Its name means “one-hundred-year alcohol”, on account of its healthy ingredients including ginseng and medicinal herbs. Surely the tastiest path towards becoming a centenarian, baekseju is available at all convenience stores (W4500) and many barbecue houses (W7000 or so), though bar-restaurant chain Baekseju Maeul is the most entertaining place to try your first hit.
Bokbunjaju (복분자주) Made with black raspberries, this sweet, fruity drink is somewhat similar to sugary, low-grade port. Available at all convenience stores (W6500), though those off on a mountain hike in late summer may be lucky enough to try some freshly made fare: it’s sold by farmers at makeshift stalls.
Dongdongju (동동주) Very similar to makgeolli, dongdongju is a little heavier taste-wise, and since it can only be served fresh you’ll have to head to a specialist place to sample it. The restaurants most likely to have dongdongju are those also serving savoury pancakes known as pajeon; these establishments are usually rustic affairs decked out with Korean bric-a-brac, and serving dongdongju in large wooden bowls (W8000), to be doled out into smaller versions of the same. A word of warning: many foreigners have “hit the wall” on their first dabble, suddenly finding themselves floored by this deceptively quaffable drink.
Maehwasu (매화수) Similar to baekseju in colour, strength and price, this is made with the blossom of the maesil, a type of Korean plum, and some bottles come with said fruit steeping inside.
Makgeolli (막걸리) Usually around six percent alcohol by volume, this milky rice-beer was considered grandad fuel for years, but has recently seen an upsurge in its popularity. The stuff is now sold in upmarket bar-restaurants, and preliminary attempts at marketing it abroad have even been made. Although it’s the most expensive of Korea’s alcohols to make, it’s actually the cheapest to buy (W1300 in a convenience store, W3000 in a restaurant), since its centuries-old heritage has afforded it a favourable tax status.
Soju (소주) Soju is Korea’s national drink, with Seoulites alone getting through over a billion bottles a year – that’s almost one hundred bottles of soju per adult. Locals refer to it as “Korean vodka”, though it’s only half the strength – a good thing too, as it’s usually fired down in staccato shots, preferably over barbecued meat. It’s traditionally made with sweet potato, but these days most companies use cheap chemical concoctions: the resultant taste puts many foreigners off, but some find themselves near-addicted within days of arrival. Expect to pay around W1300 from a convenience store, or W3000 at a restaurant.
Syndrome 신드롬 205 Dosan-daero, 02 544 7227; Apgujeong subway; map. A club with a swimming pool – no wonder this “new electronica” stomping ground was an immediate hit on opening in late 2013. Cover usually W10,000 before midnight, W30,000 after. Thurs–Sun 10pm–7am.
Seoul’s burgeoning LGBT+ nightlife scene has come on in leaps and bounds since 2000, when star actor Hong Seok-cheon came out of the closet – the first Korean celebrity to do so. Initially shunned by family and friends, he found himself out of work and living in a bedsit, before opening up an Italian restaurant named Our Place on Itaewon’s famed “Hooker Hill”. To Hong’s surprise, Our Place proved a hit with locals as well as LGBT+ foreigners, and similar places opened up in some of the places nearby; Hong himself now runs almost a dozen venues in the area. One side-street, now known as “Homo Hill”, remains the centre of the country’s LGBT+ community, and is home to numerous bars.
Although Itaewon tends to suffice for foreign visitors, Seoul does have other LGBT+ neighbourhoods. The zone around Jongno 3-ga station was long home to underground LGBT+ bars, but the scene has become much more open in recent years, and there are some foreigner-friendly places in trendy Ikseondong. In addition, the pojangmacha tent-restaurants outside exit 4 of the subway station are good places to get chatting to local gay guys. Finally, the university district of Sinchon is popular with the local lesbian community, many of whom congregate in “Triangle Park”, a patch of concrete near exit 1 of Sinchon subway station (take the first right).
The 9 더9 56 Samil-daero 30-gil; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. “He is already hard, cum get him!” So screams a sign on the wall of this bar-restaurant – at street level, too, which is a great indicator of how Ikseondong’s once-discreet LGBT+ scene has become loud and proud. Daily 5pm–midnight.
Barcode 바코드 2F 41 Donhwamun-ro 02 3672 0940; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Longstanding Jongno LGBT+ bar, a fun place with English-speaking staff, and a bearish, thirty-something clientele. Daily 7.30pm–3am.
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 커프븐 앤 티리브 18 Insadong 4-gil; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Located at the bottom of the Orakai Suites, this coffee chain branch attracts young gay men throughout the day, but most clamorously on weekend evenings – much to the bemusement of the elderly locals in this traditional neighbourhood. Daily 10am–9pm.
Labris 라브리 8F 81 Wausan-ro 02 333 5276; Sangsu subway; map. A long-established mainstay of the Seoul lesbian scene, this women-only (that includes FTM trans) bar and social space is one of the most welcoming places for foreigners. Entry W15,000. Fri & Sat 9pm–5am.
Pink Hole 핀크홀 24 Yanghwa-ro 12-gil; Hapjeong subway; map. There are plenty of lesbian establishments in the wider Hongdae area, but this is one of the few options for those who feel like a dance – a pity, then, that they seem to put the same pop playlist on every night. Usually W10,000 entrance fee, with two free drinks. Daily 9pm–2am.
Queen 퀸 7 Usadan-ro 12-gil 010 9039 2583; Itaewon subway; map. The two most popular gay bars on “Homo Hill” are Queen and Always Homme, but visitors often get fleeced at the latter; head instead to this attractive venue, with inviting staff and highly comfortable chairs. On warm weekend evenings, even these can’t stop the crowd – usually quite a mixed bag in terms of race and persuasion – spilling out onto the street for a dance. Fri & Sat 10.30pm–5am.
Why Not? 와이낫? 10 Usadan-ro 12-gil 02 795 8193; Itaewon subway; map. Now, this is a trip. Here you’re likely to see dozens of young locals performing expertly choreographed K-pop dances – some of these guys are seriously talented. Other nights have drag shows, or more “regular” house music. Cover W10,000, includes a free drink. Daily 7.30pm–5am.