9

WARTIME ENTERTAINING

Waffle Cheese Sandwiches

Mock Pâté de Fois Gras

Brisket with Vegetables

Giant Cheese “Hot Dogs”

Hungarian Goulash

Individual Lamb Roasts

Javanese Corn with Coconut

Oat Sticks

Potato Cloverleaf Rolls

Raised Chocolate Cake

Chocolate Spanish Cream

Strawberry or Raspberry Trifle

Flaky Pastry

Carrot Pie

Rhubarb Pie

Chocolate Marshmallow Pie

Entertaining was an important part of the 1940s’ social scene. The December 1941 issue of McCall’s, which was most likely written in late August but arrived to subscribers just days before the Japanese bombing of Pearl Harbor, showed young women discussing their favorite hand lotion at a “Defense Party.” The media never suggested that entertaining be put on hold; rather, they offered strategies for presenting a socially acceptable spread within the confines of rationing and scarcity. One popular idea was the progressive party. If everyone served a course, the strain on ration books and pocketbooks would be shared. Families were encouraged to entertain servicemen stationed in their area and home entertaining for couples was heavily promoted.

Holiday entertaining was encouraged as good for the morale of the country. In a November 1942 article, “Thanksgiving, Don’t skip it this year,” Good Housekeeping editors offered a full turkey dinner plus a Thanksgiving Night Snack that included Spicy-Ham Spread, Shrimp-Salad Spread, Cottage-Cheese Temptation, and Peanut-Butter Spread with toast and fruit. An article in Woman’s Home Companion the same month, entitled “For a New Kind of Thanksgiving,” proposes “Let’s Use a Simple Menu.” And here it is:

Roast Turkey — Celery, Onion Stuffing

Old-Fashioned Cranberry Sauce

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes — Gravy

Honeyed Squash Squares

Wine or Apple Juice

Polka Dot Lemon Chiffon Pie

Deviled Nuts — Coffee

The photographs show that the family invited sailors from a neighboring camp and that they all packed a box including some of the nonperishable components of the meal to send to their boy, who was too far away to come home. Although the meal certainly doesn’t sound like deprivation, the editors note that the table, “though short on courses is long on shining silver and Grandmother’s china. No ration on hospitality and grace.”

Good Housekeeping’s December 1942 article, “Plan Your Holiday Meals This Way and You’ll Meet Uncle Sam’s Recommendations for Nutritious Meals,” explains to homemakers that many foods will be unavailable for holiday meals, but “you still will find such a wide variety in foods on the grocer’s shelves that you easily can choose substitutes.” And, to prove it, they plan the following menu:

Cranberry-Juice Cocktail

Carrot-Cheese Hors d’Oeuvres

Roast Turkey — Sweet Potato Stuffing

Giblet or Mushroom Gravy

Brussels Sprouts with Onions

String-Bean Succotash

Celery — Pickles — Pickled Fruit

Enriched Bread

Steamed Christmas Puddings — Strawberry Sauce

Roasted Walnuts — Coffee

The other occasion that captured the attention of women’s magazines was the wartime wedding. Usually planned quickly and carried out inexpensively, they were more likely to be high on style and light on refreshments. A June 1943 Good Housekeeping article tells war brides, “you can marry in haste and have a wedding party, too!” The buffet reception consists of Chicken and Vegetable Aspic, Rolls or Biscuits, Jam, a Three-Tiered Cake, and Strawberry Punch. The menu for a sit-down affair is Asparagus Newburg, Watercress, Celery, and Radish Garnish, Fruit Sherbet, and Bride’s Angel Food.

The recipes that follow are based on ones selected from entertaining menus that appeared in magazines and cookbooks of the period. Entertaining articles were usually focused on desserts and my choices are as well.