GRILLED MACKEREL FILLETS WITH APPLE AND FENNEL SALAD
This recipe features a mix of cinnamon, cloves, fennel and black pepper all quite strong and almost as robust as the flavours associated with traditional game cooking in Rajasthan. Interestingly, mackerel stands up really well to such powerful spices and works brilliantly with the light salad of thinly sliced apples and shaved fennel, served on a simple yoghurt raita.
SERVES 4
4 small mackerel fillets, pin-boned and trimmed
5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
juice of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon Kashmiri red chilli powder for garnishing (or substitute smoked paprika)
For the yoghurt raita
200g plain yoghurt
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
juice of ½ lemon
For the apple and fennel salad
1 green apple, cored and thinly sliced
1 bulb of fennel, finely shaved using a sharp mandolin or very thin knife, refreshed in iced water
a pinch of Chaat Masala
juice of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon chopped coriander stalk, washed
a pinch of salt
a pinch of sugar
Start by making the yoghurt raita. Whisk together the yoghurt with the rest of the raita ingredients, then pass through a sieve to lose any lumps. Cover and chill until required.
Wash and pat dry the mackerel fillets. Grind or pound together all the spices and salt to a coarse consistency in mortar and pestle, then sprinkle them over the mackerel on both sides. Mix together the oil and lemon juice and drizzle over the fish.
Place the mackerel under a preheated hot grill, skin side up, and grill for 6–8 minutes, until just cooked through and the flesh flakes.
For the salad, just before serving mix together all the ingredients. Divide the yoghurt raita between 4 plates, then top each with a mackerel and the salad, sprinkle with the chilli powder and serve immediately.
SCALLOP, TUNA AND SALMON CEVICHE WITH MANGO
This was originally inspired by seeing tuna with mango on a Mexican restaurant menu and when I tried the dish I felt we could do better. I was quite excited by the idea, but each time I prepared the dish it would be met with the same lukewarm response: is it Indian? The short answer was ‘no’, but then every time I sat on the sun-washed alfresco terrace at Cinnamon Kitchen in the summer of 2008, I imagined this dish working perfectly in the surroundings. So, that is how it made its way on to the menu, during the summer that followed, and it has returned each year since.
SERVES 4
8 king scallops, cleaned and thinly sliced horizontally into 2 or 3 slices
115g tuna loin, cut in to 1cm dice
60g salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 1cm dice
For the dressing
½ green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
½ ripe mango, cut into 1cm dice
½ raw green mango, cut into 5mm dice
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
4 tablespoons canned mango purée
2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
juice of 2 limes
a pinch of salt
a pinch of sugar
Prepare the dressing by mixing together all the ingredients. Check the seasoning; it should taste sweet, sour, sharp and hot all at the same time.
Put the scallops, tuna and salmon in a non-metallic bowl, pour the dressing over, stir lightly and leave to stand for 3–5 minutes, allowing the dressing to cure the seafood. When they are extremely fresh, high-quality scallops, salmon and tuna are good enough to eat raw, but when mixed with the dressing they turn slightly opaque, as if they have been cooked. Serve immediately, with salad leaves of your choice.
Everyone loves a moily, the coconut and turmeric curry from Kerala. While most Indian dishes pride themselves on using scores of ingredients and combinations of spices, the beautiful moily uses merely seven ingredients, plus oil, salt and whatever main ingredient you choose to cook in it. Even after twenty years of cooking, there has not been one instance when people haven’t been wowed by its simplicity. You can serve this as a soup or as a main course, using shrimp, just about any seafood, chicken or, as in this instance, mussels. I like to serve this with either fresh naan bread or some rice pancakes (uttapams).
SERVES 4
500g fresh mussels
2 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil
20 fresh curry leaves
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
1 large onion, sliced
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
750ml fish or seafood stock
250ml thick coconut milk (if using canned, separate the thick milk from the thin part)
1 teaspoon salt
Wash and scrub the mussels. Discard any open ones that do not close when tapped, then set aside the remainder.
Heat the oil in a large pan and add the curry leaves, chillies, onion and ginger and cook, stirring, for 6–8 minutes. When the onion is translucent, add the turmeric and stir for 30 seconds, then add the fish stock, coconut milk and salt. Bring to a simmer and allow to bubble for a couple of minutes.
Adjust the seasoning, if necessary, then add the mussels, cover the pan and simmer for 3–4 minutes. If all the mussels haven’t opened, re-cover the pan and simmer another minute. Remove the pan from the heat and discard any unopened mussels. Serve with plenty of bread.
SEARED SCALLOPS WITH KADHAI MUSHROOMS AND TOMATO AND LIME LEAF SAUCE
The explosion of flavours and textures from the roasted rice flakes and kadhai spices makes these seared scallops on a bed of stir-fried mushrooms one of those great dishes that are low in effort and high in impact. Impress your dinner guests with this easy dish!
SERVES 4
12 fresh king scallops
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
5g butter
juice of ½ lemon
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and crushed
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and crushed
2 dried red chillies, roasted and crushed
1 tablespoon rice flakes (pawa), roasted (optional)
For the tomato and lime leaf sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 lime leaf
2 tomatoes blended to a fine purée
¼ teaspoon Kadhai Masala
2 tablespoons coconut milk
a pinch of salt
a pinch of sugar
For the mushrooms
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 onion, thinly sliced
250g assorted mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
juice of ½ lime
To make the sauce, heat the oil in a heavy-based pan. Add the lime leaf and stir to infuse for about a minute, then add the tomato purée and heat through, stirring. Add the kadhai spices and coconut milk and mix well and bring to a simmer for 3–4 minutes. Correct the seasoning with salt and sugar and remove the pan from the heat.
Clean, wash and pat dry the scallops. Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the scallops and sear for about 1 minute on each side. Sprinkle the salt on top, add the butter and continue cooking the scallops until they are golden brown. Turn the scallops over and repeat the process.
Take the scallops out of the pan and sprinkle with the lemon juice, crushed spices and rice flakes, if using, to form a crust. Set aside and keep hot.
To stir-fry the mushrooms, heat the oil in the same pan until very hot. Add the garlic and onion and stir-fry. When the onion is translucent, add the mushrooms, ginger and chillies and continue stir-frying. When the mushrooms have softened, add the salt and sugar and finish with the fresh coriander and lime juice.
Divide the mushrooms between 4 plates, top each with 3 scallops and serve with the sauce drizzled around.
SARDINES WITH CHILLI AND APRICOT GLAZE
Adding a sweet, glossy, jammy purée to sardines and then simply grilling them is a quick and easy way to impress your guests at a party. Simply increase the portion size if you want to serve this as a light main course for lunch. Alternatively, use the glaze to stir-fry shrimp or thinly sliced chicken, both of which make great starters, too.
SERVES 4
8 sardines, cleaned
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon salt
For the spice paste
10 cloves
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato purée
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
2 ready-to-eat dried apricots, soaked and puréed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
Wash and pat dry the sardines. For the spice paste, roast the cloves, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and coriander and cumin seeds together in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until they release their aromas, then quickly remove them from the heat. Grind or pound them to a fine powder in a spice mill or using a mortar and pestle and set aside. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, add the onion and sauté on a medium heat. When the onions are golden, add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the tomato purée, chilli powder, apricot purée, salt and sugar and cook to a glossy, jammy consistency. Add the ground roasted spices, then remove the pan from the heat; set aside to cool.
Put the sardines on a plate and drizzle with the oil. Mix together the chilli powder and salt and sprinkle over the fish. Place the sardines on a ribbed pan or baking tray, skin side up. Using the back of a teaspoon, spread the spice paste evenly over each.
Transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and roast for 7 minutes, until cooked through and the flesh flakes easily. Serve hot with a salad of your choice.
CHAR-GRILLED NILE PERCH WITH LIME LEAF AND CHILLI
Think of this as a Thai-spiced tandoori fish tikka. I know that sounds bizarre, but it actually tastes really good! Nile perch is a rather underused fish in restaurants and in home kitchens, but it’s widely available in supermarkets and is a good alternative to the bekti or pomfret used in India. Nile perch has a particularly meaty texture, making it perfect to make kebabs with and it takes well to spice too. Any good satay-style sauce also makes a good accompaniment.
SERVES 4–6
600g Nile perch fillets, or any other freshwater fish, cut into 16 × 4cm chunks
lime wedges, to serve
For the first marinade
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
juice of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon black onion seeds (optional)
For the second marinade
75g Greek yoghurt
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
5 lime leaves, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
½ teaspoon sugar
Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade, then rub them on to the perch, cover and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.
Mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade in a bowl. Gently fold in the fish and adjust the seasoning. Take care not to break up the fish. Set aside, covered, to marinate for another 30 minutes, or overnight in the fridge of you have time.
Soak 4 bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes or so.
Thread the perch chunks on to the skewers. Try to get 4 pieces per skewer, but if they aren’t the right size, don’t worry! Cook the skewers on an oiled baking tray in an oven preheated to 220°C/Gas Mark 7 for 10–12 minutes, turning them over once if the fish begins to colour too much. Alternatively, place them under a hot grill for about 6 minutes.
Remove the skewers from the oven and serve one skewer per person with lime wedges and salad leaves of your choice.
Vivek’s tip
Do not thread the fish pieces too close to each other on the skewers. If there is some space between them the heat can penetrate better.
This is a good way of enjoying oysters with a difference – in other words, as if they had been cooked in a tandoor oven. But a word of warning first – if you’re like me and like oysters any way they come, start with forty-eight oysters to get twenty-four cooked ones in the end. I can’t resist devouring some of these raw with just the dressing!
SERVES 4
24 large oysters
For the dressing
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
100ml water
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 red onions, finely chopped
For the marinade
1 tablespoon corn or vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tablespoon gram (chickpea) flour
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
12g Greek yoghurt
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh coriander
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
To make the dressing, roast the onion seeds in a small dry saucepan on a medium heat for 30 seconds. Add the water and vinegar and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and add the ginger, sugar and salt, then remove the pan from the heat. When the liquid stops boiling, add the onions and leave them to soften in the liquid as it cools. Strain and transfer to a bowl, cover and chill until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, remove the oysters from their shells and drain. Reserve the shells if you want to use them for serving or discard. Keep the oysters chilled.
To make the marinade, heat the oil in a small pan and add the garlic. When it turns golden, gradually add the gram flour, stirring on a low heat to prevent lumps from forming. When the flour turns golden brown, acquires a slightly sandy texture and releases a roasted aroma, remove the pan from heat, tip the roasted gram flour into a bowl and set aside to cool.
When the gram flour mixture is cool, combine it with the remaining marinade ingredients.
The marinade should have a thick, paste-like consistency. If it is too runny, refrigerate it for about 15 minutes to make it a bit firmer.
If you are cooking and serving the oysters on soaked bamboo skewers, soak 8 skewers in water for 30 minutes.
Thread 3 oysters with their marinade on each of the skewers, or arrange them on a grill rack. Cook them just for a minute or so under a very hot grill. Serve immediately with the dressing.
STIR-FRIED SHRIMPS WITH RED CHARD
This is a very simple, yet effective starter, and I particularly like the way the umami-rich prawn flavour is intensified by the dried shrimp paste. It’s a clever piece of traditional cooking, and the addition of red chard at the end adds a fresh touch. This also makes a great filling to use in wraps, and they can be passed around with drinks, so I’m suggesting a shopping list for a larger number.
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER, 10 FOR CANAPÉS WITH DRINKS
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee
1kg raw deveined and peeled shrimps or tiny prawns
300g red-veined chard leaves, washed and drained
juice of ½ lemon
For the Bengali shrimp paste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
1 green cardamom pod
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
2 onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
50g tiny peeled shrimps, thawed if frozen, and finely chopped
2 tablespoons dried shrimps, soaked in warm water for 15 minutes and drained
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
125ml coconut milk
1 green chilli, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon Bengali Garam Masala
juice of ½ lemon
For the Bengali shrimp paste, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan on a medium heat. Add the cinnamon stick, bay leaf, cardamom pod and cumin seeds and fry for 1 minute. Add the onion, ginger and garlic paste, salt and sugar and continue cooking. When the onion is translucent add the fresh and dried shrimps and cook on a low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes and the chilli powder, ground cumin and turmeric and cook until the tomatoes become soft and oil starts to float on the side.
Add the coconut milk and the green chilli and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the Bengali garam masala and the lemon juice. Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender or food processor and blend. Leave to cool, cover, then store in a refrigerator until ready for use.
To finish the dish, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan or wok until very hot. Add the shrimps and stir-fry for a minute or so. When they turn pink, stir in the Bengali shrimp paste, then correct seasoning, if necessary. Finally, throw in the red chard leaves and continue stirring just until they wilt. Squeeze over the lemon juice and serve immediately in bowls as a starter, or spear them with cocktail sticks and pass around as a snack with drinks.
Stir-Fried Shrimps with Red Chard
This curry-leaf-and-coconut-flavoured soup is Kerala’s answer to lobster bisque, and it’s always been a favourite dish at each of our restaurants during the Christmas holidays. The addition of lobster-chilli toasts to serve with the soup is a Cinnamon Kitchen twist and gives the dish an interesting extra dimension.
SERVES 4
50g butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
2 live lobsters, cut in half lengthways, cleaned, with the shells reserved, and cut into 1cm dice (you can ask your fishmonger to do this, as long as you cook the lobster the same day), with the claw meat set aside for the toasts
3 tomatoes, quartered
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons coconut milk
1 tablespoon single cream
½ teaspoon sugar
juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander
For the stock
1 litre water
the reserved lobster shells (see above)
1 onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon carrot, finely chopped
½ teaspoon celery stalk, finely chopped
3 shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and cut in half
3 dried bay leaves
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
55g fresh coriander roots, washed
1 teaspoon salt
For the spice paste
10 fresh curry leaves
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
For the lobster-chilli toasts
85g lobster claw meat and any trimmings, finely chopped (set aside already)
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
1 green chilli, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon black onion seeds
a pinch of salt
20g Cheddar cheese, grated
4 thin slices of baguette or any other crusty bread
First make the stock. Put all the ingredients in a large, deep saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve and set aside.
To make the spice paste, pound all the ingredients together to a coarse paste using a mortar and pestle or process in a blender or food processor.
For the soup, melt half the butter with the oil in a saucepan. Add all the spice paste ingredients and sauté until the garlic turns golden brown. Add the chilli powder and lobster trimmings and sauté for a further minute.
Add the tomatoes and salt and stir until the tomatoes have softened. Now add the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the soup to cool. Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor and blend, then pass it through a fine sieve.
Melt the remaining butter in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the lobster and sauté for 1 minute. Pour the soup into the pan and bring to a simmer. Stir in the coconut milk, cream, sugar, lemon juice and coriander, then remove the pan from the heat, adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and keep hot.
Mix together all the ingredients for the lobster-chilli toasts, except the baguette slices. Divide the mixture between the baguette slices and place them in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for a couple of minutes, then finish under the hot grill for a minute or so. Divide the soup and the lobster meat between 4 soup plates and serve straightaway with the lobster-chilli toasts.
SCOTTISH LOBSTER MOMOS AND TOMATO AND CURRY LEAF BROTH
These humble Nepalese momos get jazzed up with Scottish lobster meat, but you can use chopped prawns or mixed seafood or even bulk up the mix with some fish trimmings, if you prefer. Making your own momo wrappers has a certain sense of achievement, but feel free to reach for the supermarket version of ready-made dumpling pastry if you’re in a rush and don’t like the mess! This is easy to find in Asian supermarkets.
SERVES 4-6
500g uncooked lobster meat, removed from shells, and roughly chopped with 4 pieces of claw meat reserved for garnishing (you can ask your fishmonger to do this, as long as you cook the lobster meat on the same day)
4 green chillies, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 lemongrass stalk, outer layer removed and stalk finely chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
50g butter
1 teaspoon peppercorns, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
1¼ teaspoons salt
juice of 1 lemon
micro herbs, to garnish
For the Tomato and Curry Leaf Broth
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2.5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and crushed
12 fresh curry leaves
12 tomatoes, halved
¼ teaspoon red chilli powder
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
600ml fish stock or water
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
50g fresh coriander roots, washed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tomato, deseeded and cut into 1cm dice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
For the momo wrappers
300g plain white flour, plus 150g for dusting
½ teaspoon baking powder
a good pinch of salt
120ml water
For tempering
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
2 dried red chillies, each split lengthways
10 fresh curry leaves
a pinch of ground asafoetida (optional)
To make the broth, heat the oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat, add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. When they start to colour, add the curry leaves and tomatoes and continue cooking. When the tomatoes have softened, stir in the chilli powder and turmeric and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, coarsely crush the cumin seeds and peppercorns together in a mortar and pestle. Add them to the simmering stock with the coriander roots and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into another pan, pressing down on the mixture to extract all the liquid. Add the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil again and add the diced tomatoes and the chopped coriander.
Meanwhile, to make the momo wrappers, sift the flour, baking powder and salt on to a work surface. Make a well in the centre, add half the water and mix well with your hands. Add the rest of the water and continue to work together until the dough is smooth. Knead well for about 5 minutes. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside for 15 minutes.
Clean the work surface, dust it generously with flour and place the dough on it. Roll the dough with your hands into a long cylindrical shape, about 2.5cm in diameter. Cut into 18 × 2.5cm pieces. Dust each piece with flour and flatten into a circular shape. Roll out each piece with a rolling pin until you have a circle 7.5–8cm in diameter and the thickness of a 10p coin. Layer the circles, dusting with flour between each layer, and cover with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.
To make the lobster filling, put the lobster meat in a bowl and mix in the remaining ingredients.
Working with one momo wrapper at a time, wet the inside circular edge with water, then place a heaped teaspoonful of lobster filling in the centre and make small folds, starting from one point on the outer edge of the wrapper and working in a circular motion until you come back to the same point. Now hold all the folds together and twist them slightly to seal the opening. Repeat the same process until all the wrappers and filling are used. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside until you’re ready to cook.
Transfer all the momos to a steamer, cover and steam on a high heat for 10–12 minutes, until the filling is well cooked. Make sure the bubbling water doesn’t touch the bottom of the momos.
Back to the broth: add the tomatoes and coriander and temper the soup by heating the oil in a heavy-based pan until smoking hot. Add the mustard seeds. When they crackle, add the red chilli, followed by the curry leaves and the asafoetida, then immediately pour the mixture into the hot soup.
Divide the momos between 4 soup plates, ladle in the soup, garnish with extra lobster meat and micro herbs and serve.
Scottish Lobster Momos and Tomato and Curry Leaf Broth
KING CRAB CLAWS WITH GOAN SPICES AND CRAB MASALA
We love using these king crabs, from the North Sea off the Norwegian coast, whenever we can for this dish, but you can substitute regular crab pincers if you can’t get hold of these real beauties. The meat from king crab legs is sweeter than that of lobster and there is lots more of it, making it worth every penny of the £50-a-kilo price tag that comes attached.
SERVES 4
800g king crab claws, separated at the joints and cut in half lengthways
15g butter, melted
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon coconut milk
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
juice of 1 lemon
For the Goan spice mix
6 green cardamom pods
4 dried red chillies
4 cloves
10cm piece of cinnamon stick, broken into 4 equal pieces
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
For the crab masala
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 large onion, chopped
3 green chillies, chopped
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground coriander
350g hand-picked fresh white crab meat
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
juice of 1 lemon
To make the Goan spice mix, roast all the spices individually in a dry frying pan on a medium heat, then mix them together and grind or pound them in a spice mill or mortar and pestle into a smooth powder.
Arrange the prepared crab claws in a baking tray, flesh side up, and brush them with the melted butter. Sprinkle with salt, sugar and the Goan spice mix. Drizzle with the coconut milk and set aside.
Meanwhile, to stir-fry the crab, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan or wok until very hot and add the cumin seeds. When they start to crackle, add the onion and sweat on a low heat for 3–4 minutes until translucent. Stir in the remaining ingredients, except the crab meat, fresh coriander and lemon juice, and cook, stirring for 30 seconds. Gently fold in the crab and cook, stirring on a low heat for 2–3 minutes. Finally, add the fresh coriander and lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning.
Place the seasoned claws under a hot grill for 6–8 minutes, until golden. Remove them from the grill and sprinkle with the fresh coriander and lemon juice. Serve immediately with the crab masala.
STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WINGS WITH CRACKED PEPPER
These chicken wings come out much better when the skins have been removed, as it allows the flavours to really penetrate and the skin doesn’t get all soggy and chewy when coated with the spicy sauce. The cracked pepper adds a final kick and bit of texture. I particularly like the delayed heat of cracked pepper in this dish.
SERVES 4
600g chicken wings, skin removed
oil for deep-frying
For the marinade
3 tablespoons cornflour
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
½ teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely ground
juice of ½ lemon
For the stir-fry sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 green cardamom pod
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
juice of ½ lemon
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then rub this over the chicken wings and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce for the stir-fry. Heat the oil in a pan until smoking, add the cardamom pod and cinnamon stick and fry for about 30 seconds until they release their aromas. Reduce the heat, add the chilli, onion and salt and cook for 5–6 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the chilli powder, peppercorns and tomatoes, chopped ginger and green chilli and stir for 3–5 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated. Finish the sauce with fresh coriander and lemon juice.
Now heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 190°C. Add the chicken wings and deep-fry for about 4 minutes, until crisp and cooked. Drain them on kitchen paper, then transfer them to a heavy-based wok or frying pan. Add the sauce and stir-fry on a high heat for about 3 minutes, until the chicken pieces are nicely coated in the sauce. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.
TANDOORI CHICKEN WITH FENNEL AND CORIANDER
This is a variation of the ever-popular tandoori ‘malai’ chicken with extra fennel and coriander for flavour and texture.
SERVES 4
4 chicken breasts, skin off and trimmed and cut into 4 pieces each
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon dried red chilli flakes
juice of 1 lemon
For the second marinade
½ teaspoon powdered allspice
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
3 cloves
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
25g plain yoghurt
1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander stems
1 teaspoon salt
For the coarsely ground spice crust
1 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns
3 cloves
1 teaspoons fennel seeds
Mix together the ginger and garlic paste, salt, chilli powder and flakes and lemon juice. Rub the mixture over the chicken breast pieces, cover and set aside.
Mix together the ingredients for the second marinade. Apply to the pieces of chicken breast to complete the marinading. (In the restaurant, at this point, we skewer and cook the chicken in the tandoor to colour evenly, finishing off in a preheated oven.)
However, if you don’t have access to a tandoor, heat the oil in an ovenproof pan and sear the pieces of chicken breasts on both sides for 2 minutes. Mix together the ingredients for the coarsely ground spice crust and sprinkle over the chicken. Place them in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the meat juices run clear, and serve hot.
This dish works well served with Coriander Chutney.
AROMATIC SPICED WELSH LAMB KEBABS
This was one of our first dishes at Cinnamon Kitchen on the original menu, and we chose this deliberately to showcase two very familiar forms of lamb kebab, but highlight the differences by playing about with the quality of the main ingredient and its different textures. Fear not if you dread the thought of having to skewer mince on to metal skewers. You can always shape them as patties or burgers and cook them in the pan.
SERVES 6
2 rumps of lamb, fat trimmed and each cut into 3 slices
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
¼ teaspoon black cumin seeds
½ teaspoon tablespoon gram (chickpea) flour
salad leaves, for garnish
For the first marinade
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
½ teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
For the second marinade
25g Greek yoghurt
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
¼ nutmeg, grated
For the mince kebab
500g minced lamb or diced boneless lamb
2 green chillies
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander stems
3 garlic cloves
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled
20g Cheddar cheese, grated
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon salt
Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat and add the black cumin seeds. When the cumin seeds start to crackle, reduce the heat to low and gradually add the gram flour, stirring to prevent lumps from forming. When the flour turns golden brown, acquires a slightly sandy texture and releases a roasted aroma, remove the pan from the heat, tip the roasted gram flour into a bowl and set aside to cool.
Pat the lamb dry. Mix all the ingredients for the first marinade in a large, deep bowl and add the lamb. Cover and set aside for 10– 15 minutes.
For the second marinade, mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl and add the ginger- and garlic-coated lamb. Now mix in the roasted gram flour thoroughly, cover and set aside for another 15 minutes.
Pierce a metal skewer through the marinated lamb rump slices to hold them firmly. Sear the lamb in a hot pan on a medium-high heat for 1 minute on each side, then place in the oven at 200°/Gas Mark 6 for 6–8 minutes. (In the restaurant, we cook the lamb rump for 8–10 minutes in a slow tandoori oven.)
If you have a mincer, then you can use diced lamb to make your own mince. Mince the lamb and all the other ingredients, except the salt, coarsely together in a mincer. Finally, add the salt and, using your hands, combine the ingredients well to get an evenly spiced mince.
Alternatively, use minced lamb and make the kebab mix in a food processor. Firstly combine the spices in the food processor before adding the lamb. Do not process for long as you want to maintain the coarse texture of the meat.
To cook this minced lamb kebab you need a barbecue and more metal skewers. Divide the mince into 4 equal parts. Now take a thick skewer and, with wet hands, slowly spread the mince on to the skewer covering it and squeezing it so it sticks. The kebabs need to be about 20–25cm long and quite thick so they stay juicy. Cover and set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes. As long as you have enough skewers, the mince kebabs can be prepared in advance and cooked once the rump slices are in the oven.
Cook the kebabs on the barbecue or under a grill for 6–8 minutes, turning regularly to ensure the meat is cooked evenly. When both sets of kebabs are ready, serve them with the salad leaves and coriander chutney.
ROASTED PARTRIDGE WITH CURRIED PEARS
Partridges in a pear tree – does this remind you of Christmas? At Cinnamon Kitchen, it certainly does to us. Both partridges and pears are plentiful in November and December and this combination works very well. Do give it a go!
SERVES 4
8 partridge breasts, boned and skinned
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
For the second marinade
250g plain yoghurt
4 green chillies, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped coriander stalks
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons dried mango powder
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons peanuts, roasted in a dry frying pan and then coarsely chopped
For the Curried Pears
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
a pinch of ground asafoetida
2 pears, peeled, cored and quartered
150g plain yoghurt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade, then rub them over the partridge breasts, cover and set aside for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade, except the peanuts, then spread over the partridge breasts. Cover and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the curried pears. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add ginger, green chilli, cumin seeds and asafoetida and fry, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Add the pears and stir for 1 minute on a high heat. Gradually add the yoghurt, stirring well after each spoonful, and then the turmeric, sugar and salt. Cook on a low heat, stirring constantly, for a minute or so, until the pears are glazed and evenly coated with the sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and keep warm.
Place the partridge breasts on a baking tray, sprinkle with the roasted peanuts and roast in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 6–8 minutes, until the peanuts turn golden brown and crisp and the breasts are medium-well done (when the juices run clear when the breasts are pierced with a skewer). Let the breasts rest for 5 minutes, then serve with the curried pears.
HYDERABADI DUCK PAO WITH CITRUS-APPLE CHUTNEY
Inspired by the conventional European duck leg confit, this is a Cinnamon Kitchen take on the confit, shredded and transformed into a filling for a pao, a classic Indian light snack (sometimes also referred to as a pav). These are great either as a starter or a filling snack, and I like serving them as ‘hand-helds’ in the bar, where they are an especially satisfying late night snack.
MAKES 8 BUNS
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus extra for searing
2 dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
1 teaspoon rock moss, optional (a type of dried moss which enhances the flavour of spices and binds flavours)
2 dried red chillies
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
For the Citrus-Apple Chutney
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
1 green cardamom pod
1 dried red chilli
1 clove
4 green apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1cm dice
50g sugar
1 tablespoon malt vinegar
juice of ½ lemon
For the pao
10g fresh yeast
1½ tablespoons caster sugar
100ml lukewarm water
2 tablespoons milk
1 egg, lightly beaten
15g butter, melted
280g plain white flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, plus extra for sprinkling
vegetable oil for brushing
For the pao filling
3 tablespoons Crisp Fried Onions
1 tablespoon chopped mint
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
1.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ teaspoon sugar
Rub the duck legs with the garlic and ginger paste and salt and set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes (the longer, the better – overnight would be ideal).
Meanwhile, make the citrus-apple chutney. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the bay leaf, cardamom pod, red chilli and clove and stir for 1–2 minutes, until they release their aromas. Add the apples and cook on a medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring. When the apples start to change colour, add the sugar and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved and started to caramelise. Add the malt vinegar and lemon juice and cook for another minute or so. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the chutney to cool. You can serve it warm or at room temperature, as you like.
After the duck legs have marinated, heat the oil in a flameproof casserole on a high heat, add the duck legs and sear for 3 minutes on both sides until nicely coloured. Add the remaining ingredients and pour over just about enough water to cover them. Cover the casserole and cook on a low heat for about 90 minutes, until tender. Alternatively, place the duck legs in a roasting tray and pour over enough water to cover. Cover the tray tightly with kitchen foil and cook in an oven preheated to 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for 90 minutes. Once cooked, allow the legs to cool down, then remove the skin and bones and finely shred the meat. Set aside.
Meanwhile, make the pao. Put the yeast and sugar in a small bowl, add the water and milk and stir until the yeast has dissolved.
Set aside in a warm place for 15 minutes, until frothy. Add half the egg and the melted butter to the yeast mixture and whisk well.
Sift 250g of the flour with the salt into a bowl. Add the cumin seeds and pour in the yeast mixture and mix to make a smooth dough.
Finally mix in the melted butter. Using the remaining flour, knead the dough for 10 minutes, until it becomes smooth and elastic. Cover the bowl with clingfilm or a damp cloth and leave the dough in a warm place for 30 minutes, or until doubled in size.
To make the pao filling, put the duck meat in a bowl and add the fried onions, mint, tamarind, ginger, chilli and sugar. Divide the mixture into 8 equal balls. Set aside while the dough finishes proving.
When the dough has risen, knock it back and divide it into 8 equal balls. Working with one ball at a time, use your thumb to make a hollow in the centre and fill it with the duck mixture. Squeeze the opening closed. Arrange the stuffed dough balls in a well-greased baking tray about 2cm deep, placing them 1cm apart. Press the balls lightly so they just touch each other, then cover again with clingfilm or a damp cloth and leave in a warm place for 30 minutes, or until they have doubled in volume. They will ‘merge’ together.
When the dough has risen, brush with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle some more cumin seeds on top. Bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 25 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove the pao from the oven and, while the buns are still hot, brush with oil. Tear them apart or cut them to separate and serve with the citrus-apple chutney, and a salad, if you like.
Vivek’s tip
Any leftover chutney can be kept in the fridge for up to a week and I recommend also serving it with the Rabbit Terrine.
Hyderabadi Duck Pao with Citrus-Apple Chutney
RABBIT AND PISTACHIO TERRINE WITH QUINCE CHUTNEY
We developed this dish as an interesting way of using up leftover rabbit legs, but you can also make it with chicken thighs, if you’d rather. It may read long and appear fiddly, but once it’s done, it’s done! If you don’t want to make the chutney, serve the sliced terrine with a few dressed salad leaves.
SERVES 6–8
8 rabbit legs, skinned and boned
1½ teaspoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons vegetable, plus extra for greasing the terrine
12g plain yoghurt
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon kasundi mustard (Bengali mustard) or wholegrain mustard
100g fresh coriander, stalks and leaves, ground into a paste in a mortar and pestle or blender
juice of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon Mace and Cardamom Powder
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon blanched pistachios, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon raisins, soaked in warm water until plump, then drained and thinly sliced
2 teaspoons pitted and thinly sliced black olives
1 teaspoon Activa or 3 eggs, beaten (Activa is a meat bonding protein available online; it helps stick different cuts of meats together)
For the Quince Chutney
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 green cardamom pod
1 dried red chilli
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
4 quince, peeled, cored and cut into 1cm dice
125g sugar
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
Divide the rabbit legs into pairs. Marinate the first pair with ½ teaspoon ginger and garlic paste, ½ teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons oil, 1 teaspoon yoghurt, ½ teaspoon chilli powder and the fenugreek leaves. Marinate the second pair with ½ teaspoon ginger and garlic paste, ½ teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons oil, the turmeric and the mustard. Marinate the third pair with ½ teaspoon ginger and garlic paste, ½ teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons oil, the coriander paste and the lemon juice. Mince the final pair in a food processor, adding ½ teaspoon salt, the ground mace and cardamom, chopped ginger and chillies. Cover and leave each pair of legs to marinate separately in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, grease an 18cm terrine. Spread the first pair of legs over the base of the terrine.
Add one-third of the rabbit mince and use a wet palm to spread out into an even thickness of 5mm. Sprinkle one-third of the pistachios, one-third of the raisins and one-third of the olives on top of the mince. Sprinkle with one-third of the Activa (or brush with the beaten egg). Now, add the second pair of legs, one-third of the mince and add another third of the pistachios, raisins and olives. Sprinkle with Activa (or brush again with the beaten egg). Finally, add the third pair of legs, the remaining mince and the remaining pistachios, raisins and olives and sprinkle with the last of the Activa (or the beaten egg). Top with the last pair of legs.
Cover the terrine tightly with foil and cook in a bain marie in the oven at 130°C/Gas Mark ½ until the juices run clear when the terrine is pierced with a skewer.
Meanwhile, make the chutney. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan and add the cloves, bay leaf, cardamom pod, chilli and mustard seeds. When the seeds crackle, add the quince and cook on a medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring. When the quince has started to change colour, add the sugar and cook, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved and started to caramelise. Add the malt vinegar and cook for another minute. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the chutney to cool. You can serve it warm or at room temperature, as you like.
Remove the terrine from the steamer and allow it to cool completely, then transfer to the fridge for at least a couple of hours, covered, with a weight to press the terrine into shape. When ready to serve, bring out the terrine and allow it to return to room temperature, then cut the terrine into 1cm slices and serve with quince chutney and a salad of your choice.
Vivek’s tip
Keep the seasoning slightly milder than you’d normally use, as the prolonged cooking makes the final flavour very intense.
CHILLED GREEN MANGO AND TOMATO SOUP
This is Cinnamon Kitchen’s Indian twist on Spanish gazpacho. The addition of green mango gives the soup an extra zing and depth of flavour. Served along with Quinoa Salad it results in a deliciously different summer starter.
SERVES 6
10 ripe tomatoes, quartered
5 green mangoes
5 red peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
250ml water
salad leaves or micro cress leaves, to garnish
For the soup, mix together all the ingredients, except the water, in a non-metallic bowl and leave aside to marinate for about 3 hours. Add the water, transfer to a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Strain the soup into a bowl, pressing down on the vegetables, to extract as much flavour as possible. Cover and refrigerate until chilled.
Pour the tomato soup into the bowls and drizzle with more olive oil just before serving. Garnish with salad leaves or micro cress. Perfect with the Quinoa Salad.
‘CHOWK KI TIKKI’ SEARED POTATO CAKES WITH MASALA CHICKPEAS
This is Cinnamon Kitchen’s adaptation of India’s favourite street snack, the spiced potato cakes served with a variety of chutneys and dressings. You’ll find it sold in most towns and cities. The term ‘chowk’ refers to a busy intersection, or crossing, in every city, where street vendors and their patrons congregate in the evenings to take in the atmosphere of the town. They share their news and gossip and exchange opinions while consuming the town’s favourite ‘chaat’.
SERVES 4–6
4 floury potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cornflour
2 tablespoons vegetable
For the masala chickpeas
400g can of chickpeas or black-eyed beans, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
1 onion, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 large tomato, deseeded and finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander
juice of 1 lemon
a pinch of Chaat Masala
Mix together all of the ingredients for the masala chickpeas. Cover and chill until required.
To make the potato cakes, put the potatoes in a bowl. Add chilli, ginger, coriander, cumin seeds and salt. Finally add the cornflour and mix well. Divide the mixture into 12 equal-sized balls and, with wet hands, flatten slightly.
Heat enough oil for shallow-frying in a large, heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add as many potato cakes as will fit and fry for about 3–4 minutes on each side, until crisp and golden. As each batch is fried, remove and drain well on kitchen paper, then keep hot until they are all fried. To serve, spread some chickpea masala on 4 plates and arrange the potato cakes on top. Serve with a chutney of your choice.
TOMATO RASAM WITH SPICED LENTIL FRITTERS
In southern India, the Tamils traditionally make this thin soup, which is usually served poured over rice. The British turned this into what has become known as mulligatawny. Elsewhere in India, tomato rasam is often served with lentil fritters, and that is how we have left it at Cinnamon Kitchen.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and crushed
12 fresh curry leaves
12 tomatoes, halved
1½ teaspoons tamarind paste
¼ teaspoon red chilli powder
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
600ml vegetable stock or boiling water
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
50g fresh coriander roots, washed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves
For tempering
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
2 dried red chillies, cut in half
10 fresh curry leaves
a large pinch of ground asafoetida (optional)
For the lentil fritters
200g white urad lentils, picked over, rinsed and soaked overnight
2 tablespoons coarse semolina
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
oil for deep-frying
Heat the oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat, add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. When they start to colour, add the curry leaves and tomatoes and continue sautéing until the tomatoes have softened. Stir in the tamarind, chilli powder and turmeric and cook for 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, coarsely crush the cumin seeds and peppercorns together in a mortar and pestle. Add them to the simmering stock with the coriander roots and leave to simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into another saucepan, pressing down to extract all the flavours. Add the salt and sugar. Cover and set aside until you are ready to serve.
Now prepare the lentil fritters. Drain the lentils, transfer them to a blender or food processor and blend until smooth, using just enough fresh water to blend. Transfer to a bowl and add the semolina, salt and black peppercorns. Beat with a spoon until the batter is light and fluffy and divide it into 20 equal balls.
Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 180°C. Using wet hands, as the batter is sticky, add the balls and fry them for about 3–5 minutes, until lightly browned. Drain well on kitchen paper and keep hot.
Just before you’re ready to serve, reheat the soup and sprinkle in the coriander. For tempering, heat the oil in a pan until very hot, then add the mustard seeds. When they crackle, add the red chilli, followed by curry leaves and the asafoetida, if you are using. Immediately pour this mixture into the hot soup. Serve with the hot lentil fritters.
CHAR-GRILLED BROCCOLI FLORETS WITH ROSE PETALS AND ALMONDS
This is an incredibly simple, but delicious way to cook broccoli. You can use the purple sprouting variety when it is in season, and you don’t need to blanch it in that case.
SERVES 4
For the marinated broccoli
1 tablespoon grated Cheddar cheese
25g Greek yoghurt
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tablespoon single cream
1 teaspoon dried rose petals
½ teaspoon Mace and Cardamom Powder
1 head of broccoli or two stalks of purple sprouting broccoli, cut into florets, blanched in salted water for 30 seconds, drained and chilled in ice water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
To serve
1 tablespoon flaked almonds
juice of ½ lemon
Garlic Chutney or Coriander Chutney, to serve
In a bowl, rub the cheese with your fingers to break up any lumps. Add the yoghurt and mix until smooth. Add the ginger and garlic paste, salt, chopped ginger and chilli and mix well, then stir in the cream carefully, as the mixture might separate if mixed too vigorously. Finally add the rose petals, mace and cardamom powder, gently fold in the broccoli florets, and drizzle with a tablespoon of oil. Mix and set aside for 20 minutes.
To cook the broccoli, soak 4 bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Thread the broccoli florets on to the skewers, arrange on an oiled baking tray and place under a hot grill for 5–6 minutes, until the broccoli florets are cooked and slightly charred at the edges. Now sprinkle with the almond flakes and toast for another minute or so. Remove from the grill and serve immediately, squeezing over the lemon and accompanying with a chutney of your choice.
CINNAMON KITCHEN CLASSICS: STEP BY STEP
Adding the rose petals to the marinade.
Folding the broccoli florets into the marinade.
The skewers are finished under the grill and served with garlic chutney.
POTATO CAKES STUFFED WITH SPINACH AND DRIED FRUIT
These are inspired by the omnipresent potato ‘tikkis’ or cakes sold all over the country on the streets. Ours is a poshed up version using spinach and apricots. I find this is a good way to get the kids to eat spinach!
MAKES 10
600g floury potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
3 green chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
2 teaspoons salt
30g cornflour
oil for shallow-frying
micro herbs, to garnish
For the filling
4 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
salt, to taste
500g spinach leaves, blanched, squeezed dry and finely chopped
12 ready-to-eat dried apricots, finely diced
12 ready-to-eat dried figs, finely diced
For the filling, heat the ghee or oil in a pan and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and onion and sauté for 4–6 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the chillies, ginger and salt and stir-fry for a minute or so. Add the spinach, apricots and figs and stir-fry until the spinach wilts, then check the seasoning. Remove the stuffing from the pan and leave to cool.
Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the potato cake, then shape into 10 equal balls and set aside.
When the filling is cool, working with one potato ball at a time, make an insertion with your thumb to create a hollow space. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling into the hollow, then mould the potato mixture to seal closed. Use your palm to lightly press the potato ball into a rounded patty shape. Continue until all the potato cakes are stuffed and shaped.
Heat enough oil for shallow-frying in a large, heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add as many potato cakes as will fit and fry for about 3–4 minutes on each side, until crisp and golden. As each batch is fried, remove and drain well on kitchen paper, then keep hot until they are all fried. Garnish with micro herbs and serve hot with a chutney of your choice. Add a salad, too, if you like.
MINCED VEGETABLE KEBAB WITH DRIED FIGS AND ROSE PETALS
This is a variation on the ever-popular vegetable shammi kebabs sold all over northern India on the streets. For a sophisticated touch, ours has dried rose petals and figs in the belly!
MAKES 6
80g chana dal (split yellow chickpeas), soaked in cold water for 1 hour
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 green cardamom pods
2 black cardamom pods
2.5 cm piece of cinnamon stick
3 cloves
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 bay leaf
500ml whole milk
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
100g cauliflower florets
85g French beans, cut into 2.5cm pieces
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
oil for shallow-frying
For the filling
250g Greek yoghurt
8 dried rose petals, crushed
4 ready-to-eat dried figs, finely chopped
4 mint sprigs, finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
Drain the chana dal and set aside. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat and add the green and black cardamom pods, cinnamon stick and cloves. When they start to give off their aromas, add the ginger and bay leaf. When the ginger starts to colour, add the chana dal and the milk, bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then boil for 5–8 minutes, until the lentils begin to soften slightly.
Add the chilli powder, ground coriander and cumin and salt. Now add the vegetables and cook on a medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the vegetables are cooked, but still slightly crunchy and the mixture is just about moist. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the mixture to cool for 30 minutes. Then chill for another 30 minutes or so in the fridge to make them easier to handle.
Ideally you would pass the mixture through a mincer; if you are using a blender, however, take care not to blend it too finely and set some aside to coarsely chop by hand in order to retain some texture. Mix well and correct the seasoning, if necessary. Divide the mixture into 6 equal balls. To prepare the filling, beat the yoghurt in a bowl, then stir in the remaining ingredients.
With wet hands, working with one vegetable ball at a time, make an insertion with your thumb to create a hollow space. Use a teaspoon to fill the hollow with the yoghurt mixture, then mould the mixture to seal closed. Use your palm to lightly press the vegetable ball into a rounded patty shape. Continue until all the kebabs are stuffed and shaped.
Heat enough oil for shallow-frying in a large, heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add the kebabs and fry for about 4–5 minutes on each side, until they are crisp and golden. As each batch is fried, remove and drain well on kitchen paper, then keep hot until they are all fried. Serve immediately.
Vivek’s tip
Coriander Chutney makes a great accompaniment to this dish.
KADHAI-SPICED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST
My inspiration for this recipe came to me on a trip to Bordeaux when ceps were just coming into season. I ordered delicious, crunchy ceps cooked in butter, garlic, parsley and lemon juice. I was reminded of a simple potato dish my mum makes with sliced potatoes, chilli, turmeric and fresh coriander leaves. At our newest restaurant, Cinnamon Soho, I‘ve combined the two different dishes into this dish. We use king oyster, large shiitake or eryngii mushrooms, otherwise known as chicken-feet mushrooms, but you can use any meaty variety you can lay your hands on. Add a fried or poached egg for an interesting brunch idea.
SERVES 4
4 slices of any good bread
butter, olive oil or pesto sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
400g chunky mushrooms, cleaned and sliced into 5mm slices
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, deseeded and chopped into 1cm dice
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon of Kadhai Masala
½ teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar
15g butter
juice of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and/or stalks, washed
Toast the bread and spread with butter, olive oil or pesto, whichever you prefer, and keep warm.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan until it is very hot. Spread out the mushrooms in the pan and leave to brown for 60–90 seconds. Do not move the mushrooms too much until they form a crust.
Now stir in the onion and cook for 1 minute, then add the chillies, tomatoes, ginger, kadhai masala, salt and sugar and stir around for another minute on high heat. Finish by stirring in the butter and lemon juice, allowing the butter to melt. Stir in the coriander and serve immediately on the toast.
SPICED CHICKPEA CAKES WITH QUINOA SALAD
These spiced chickpea cakes are inspired by falafel. The list of ingredients may appear daunting, but, once you’ve got them, this is one of the simplest things to make. Quinoa, even though it’s been around for centuries, is not generally used in Indian kitchens, I find it works very well if cooked as you would cook a south Indian upma. Although considered ‘the mother of all grains’ by the Incas, quinoa is not a true grain, but is rich in both fibre and protein, so is a good alternative to wheat for coeliacs and a great substitute for meat protein for vegetarians.
SERVES 4
oil for deep-frying
Curried Yoghurt, to serve
For the spiced chickpea cakes
250g boiled chickpeas, drained and coarsely blended
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
5 fresh curry leaves, finely shredded
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 lime leaves, finely shredded
½ teaspoon large red onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons peanuts, roasted in a dry frying pan and then coarsely crushed
1 tablespoon gram (chickpea) flour
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ajowan seeds
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon tahini (sesame paste)
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
juice of 1 lemon
For the Quinoa Salad
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
200g quinoa, boiled, drained and left to cool
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ teaspoon large red onion, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon red pepper, thinly sliced
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
Firstly, prepare the quinoa salad. Heat the oil in a frying pan to smoking point and add the mustard seeds. When they crackle, remove the pan from the heat and pour the oil and seeds into the quinoa. Add the remaining ingredients, mix together, adjust the seasoning and set aside.
Combine all the ingredients for the chickpea cakes. With wet hands, divide the mixture into 12 equal balls (they should each weigh about 30g) and flatten slightly. Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 180°C. Add the chickpea cakes and deep-fry for 1–2 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Drain well on kitchen paper and serve immediately while still hot with the quinoa salad and curried yoghurt.
Our take on the ever-popular steamed pork or chicken momos you find in Nepal and among the Tibetan community in Delhi. For me, no trip to Delhi is complete without stuffing my face with steamed momos in Chanakyapuri. A few years ago, some Nepalese chefs joined our team at Cinnamon Kitchen and they once made these for a staff meal – I immediately got the idea for my new vegetarian starter! Making hundreds of dumplings and filling them by hand can be an effort, but it’s worth it. And don’t fret if they are a little irregular in shape – they taste every bit as good!
SERVES 4–6
For the momo wrappers
300g plain flour, plus
150g for dusting
½ teaspoon baking powder a good pinch of salt
120ml water
For the momos
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 large onion, sliced
4 sprigs thyme
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
300g sweetcorn kernels, fresh or thawed, half roughly chopped and other half left whole, plus a few to garnish
50g butter
½ teaspoon sugar
juice of ½ a lemon
4 tablespoons chopped fresh spring onions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
1 red onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed
Firstly, make the momo wrappers. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt on to a work surface. Make a well in the centre, add half the water and mix well with your hands. Add the rest of the water and continue to work together until the dough is smooth. Knead well for about 5 minutes. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside for 15 minutes.
Return the dough to the cleaned work surface, generously dusted with flour. Roll the dough with your hands into a long cylindrical shape, about 2.5cm in diameter. Cut into 20 × 2.5cm pieces. Dust each piece with flour and flatten into a circular shape. Roll out each piece with a rolling pin until you have a circle 7.5–8cm in diameter and the thickness of a 10p coin. This will yield about 20 discs. Layer the circles, dusting with flour between each layer, and cover with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.
To make the momos, first heat the oil in a pan on a medium-high heat; add the cumin seeds. When they start to crackle, add the garlic, onion and thyme. Cook for 4–6 minutes, until the onion is translucent, then add the ginger, green chillies, salt and ground turmeric and cook for 1 minute. Now add the sweetcorn and cook for 4–5 minutes, until the corn is soft. Finish with the butter, sugar and lemon juice. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Once the mix has cooled, fold in the rest of the ingredients and adjust the seasoning. Shape into small balls (about 4cm diameter) and chill.
Working with one momo wrapper at a time, wet the inside circular edge with water, then place a ball of filling in the centre and make small folds, starting from one point on the outer edge of the wrapper and working in a circular motion until you come back to the same point. Now hold all the folds together and twist them slightly to seal the opening. Repeat the same process until all the wrappers and filling are used. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside until you’re ready to cook.
Transfer all the momos to a steamer and steam on a high heat for 6–8 minutes, or until the pastry is soft. Make sure the bubbling water doesn’t touch the bottom of the momos.
Serve the steamed momos with a spicy dip of your choice and a few sweetcorn kernels to garnish.
Vivek’s tip
If you prefer, you can buy dumpling pastry sheets from any good Oriental supermarket.
SPICED SWEETCORN SOUP WITH MASALA SWEETCORN KEBABS
This is a cracking little number to impress your guests at the dinner table. Like a lot of our favourite dishes at Cinnamon Kitchen, it’s easy to prepare in advance and to serve whenever you’re ready.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 onion, chopped
300g sweetcorn kernels, fresh or thawed
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 hot green chillies, slit lengthways
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
400ml light vegetable stock or water
100ml whole milk
3 tablespoons single cream
55g butter
juice of ½ lemon
For the masala sweetcorn kebabs
200g sweetcorn kernels, fresh or thawed
100g paneer cheese, grated
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cornflour
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and crushed
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
oil for deep-frying
For the masala sweetcorn kebabs, mix together all the ingredients in a bowl, then set aside for 15 minutes. Next, using wet hands, divide the mixture into 8–10 equal balls, cover and leave them in the fridge for 20 minutes.
To make the soup heat the oil in a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and onion and sauté for 3–4 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the sweetcorn kernels, ginger, chillies, salt and half the turmeric and cook for a further 3–4 minutes. Now add the vegetable stock and let the soup simmer for about 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor and blend, then strain back into the pan.
Return the soup to the heat and add the rest of the turmeric, the milk and the cream. Simmer on a medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to your liking. Stir in the butter and lemon juice. Set aside and keep hot while you fry the sweetcorn kebabs.
Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer set to 190°C, or use a deep, heavy-based saucepan.
Add the sweetcorn kebabs and deep-fry for about 3–4 minutes, until they are crisp and golden. Drain well on kitchen paper. Serve the soup with the kebabs on the side.
SOUTH INDIAN DOSA PANCAKES WITH SPICED POTATOES AND GREEN COCONUT CHUTNEY
Dosa pancakes are served either as a snack or as a main meal any time of the day, all over India, not just in the south. You can find dosa rice in any Asian food shop or deli. This version uses spiced potatoes as a filling, but the pancakes can also be filled with prawns, cooked chicken or lamb mince. The green coconut chutney is a traditional south Indian breakfast accompaniment.
SERVES 4–6
150g basmati or dosa rice
50g black urad lentils
salt, to taste
For the spiced potatoes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 dried red chilli
½ teaspoon chana dal (split yellow chickpeas)
24 fresh curry leaves
2 red onions, chopped
2 green chillies, chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
2 floury potatoes, boiled, peeled and crushed
For the green coconut chutney
1 coconut, grated (liquid discarded)
50g fresh coriander leaves
20g mint leaves
4 green chillies, chopped
2 tablespoons chana dal (split yellow chickpeas), roasted
1 teaspoon salt
For tempering
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
10 fresh curry leaves
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
Start the rice pancakes 1½ days before you plan to serve. In separate bowls, cover the rice and the black urad lentils with cold water and allow to soak for at least for 6 hours. Drain and rinse with lukewarm water. Transfer the rice and lentils to a blender or food processor and blend together to a fine paste, adding fresh water, as necessary. Leave overnight in a warm place, about 45°C, partially covered, to ferment.
The dosa mixture will be ready when fermentation starts and bubbles begin to appear on the surface. Alternatively, use a dosa pancake mix (available in most Asian food shops) and follow the instructions on the packet.
For the spiced potatoes, heat the oil in a pan over a medium-high heat and add the mustard seeds. When they crackle, add the dried red chilli and chana dal and let the dal turn golden, then throw in the curry leaves. When they wrinkle, add the onions and sauté for 4–6 minutes, until the onions are translucent. Now add the green chillies, ginger and turmeric and sauté for 1 minute. Add the salt and grated potatoes and mix well. Set aside and keep hot.
For the green coconut chutney, mix together all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend to a soft spooning consistency. To temper the chutney, heat the oil until very hot, then add the curry leaves and mustard seeds. As soon as they crackle, pour them into the chutney, then set aside.
To make dosa pancakes, add salt to taste to the fermented mixture and mix well. Heat a well-seasoned or non-stick frying pan on a medium heat. Smear the surface of the pan with a little oil and use a ladle to pour 2–3 tablespoons of batter into the centre of the pan. Then, using the back of the ladle, spread it out quickly with an outward circular motion to form a thin pancake about 10cm in diameter. This can be tricky for novices, but gets easier the more you make, so persevere.
When the pancake is crisp and golden, flip it on to a plate, spoon the spiced potatoes into the centre and either roll or fold it into a triangle-shaped parcel. Continue until all the dosa mixture and spiced potatoes are used. Serve hot with the chutney and, if you like, sprinkle with a little chilli powder.
