Europe’s most underrated big city, Budapest can be as challenging as it is enchanting. The sprawling Hungarian capital on the banks of the Danube is, in so many ways, the capital of Central Europe. It’s a city of nuance and paradox—cosmopolitan, complicated, and tricky for the first-timer to get a handle on. Like a full-bodied Hungarian wine, Budapest can overwhelm visitors...even as it intoxicates them with delights.
Think of Budapest as that favorite Hungarian pastime, chess: It’s simple to learn...but takes a lifetime to master. This chapter is your first lesson. Then it’s your move.
Budapest is huge, with nearly two million people. Like Vienna, the city was built as the head of a much larger empire than it currently governs—which can make it feel a bit too grandiose for the capital of a small country. But the city is surprisingly easy to manage once you get the lay of the land and learn the excellent public transportation network. Those who are comfortable with the Metró, trams, and buses have the city by the tail (see “Getting Around Budapest” on here).
The city is split down the center by the Danube River. On the east side of the Danube is flat Pest (pronounced “pesht”), and on the west is hilly Buda. A third part of the city, Óbuda, sits to the north of Buda.
Buda and Pest are connected by a series of characteristic bridges. From north to south, there’s the low-profile Margaret Bridge (Margit híd, crosses Margaret Island), the famous Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd), the white and modern Elisabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd), and the green Liberty Bridge (Szabadság híd). These bridges are fun to cross on foot, but it’s faster to go under the river (on the M2/red Metró line), or to cross over it by tram or bus. (Four more bridges lie beyond the tourist zone: the Petőfi and Rákóczi bridges to the south, and Árpád and Megyeri bridges to the north.)
Budapest uses a district system (like Paris and Vienna). There are 23 districts (kerület), identified by Roman numerals. For example, Castle Hill is in district I and City Park is in district XIV. Notice that the district number does not necessarily indicate how central a location is: Districts II and III are to the north of Buda, where few tourists go, while the heart of Pest is district V. Addresses often start with the district number (as a Roman numeral). Budapest’s four-digit postal codes also give you a clue as to the district: The first digit (always 1) represents Budapest, then a two-digit number represents the district (such as “05” for district V), then a final digit gives more specific information about the location.
As you navigate Budapest, remember these key Hungarian terms: tér (pronounced “tehr,” square), utca (OOT-zaw, street), út (oot, boulevard), körút (KUR-root, ring road), híd (heed, bridge), and város (VAH-rohsh, town). To better match what you’ll see locally, in this book I’ve mostly used these Hungarian terms (instead of the English equivalents).
Let’s take a tour through the places where you’ll be spending your time, neighborhood by neighborhood. This section—like all of the sightseeing, sleeping, eating, and other advice in this book—is divided between Pest and Buda. (It might help to think of these as two separate cities...which, after all, they once were.)
Pest—the real-world commercial heart of the city—is where most tourists spend the majority of their time.
“Downtown” Pest (district V), just across the river from Castle Hill, is divided into two sections:
The more genteel northern half, called Leopold Town (Lipótváros), surrounds the giant red-domed, riverside Parliament building. This is the governmental, business, and banking district, with several fine monuments and grand buildings. Leopold Town is sleepy after hours.
The southern half, the grittier and more urban-feeling Town Center (Belváros, literally “Inner Town”), is a thriving shopping, dining, nightlife, and residential zone that bustles day and night. The main pedestrian artery through the Town Center is the famous (and overrated) Váci utca shopping street, which runs parallel to the fine and scenic Danube promenade one block inland. At the southern end of the Town Center is the vast Great Market Hall, with the café street Ráday utca just beyond.
The Town Center is hemmed in by the first of Pest’s four concentric ring roads (körút). The innermost ring is called the Kiskörút, or “Small Boulevard.” The next ring, several blocks farther out, is called the Nagykörút, or “Great Boulevard.” These ring roads change names every few blocks, but they are always called körút. Historically, the Nagykörút is subdivided into sections named for Habsburg monarchs, such as Lipótkörút (“Leopold Boulevard”); each of these sections also defines a neighborhood, such as Lipótváros (“Leopold Town”). Beyond the Nagykörút are two more ring roads—the Hungária körút highway, and the M-0 expressway—that few tourists see.
Arterial boulevards, called út, stretch from central Pest into the suburbs like spokes on a wheel. One of these boulevards, Andrássy út, provides a useful spine for reaching some of outer Pest’s best sights, restaurants, and accommodations. It begins at the Small Boulevard (near Deák tér) and extends past several key sights (including the Opera and the House of Terror museum) and dining zones (such as the “Broadway Quarter” and Franz Liszt Square) out to City Park. The park has its own collection of attractions, including the monumental Heroes’ Square and Budapest’s top experience: soaking in the Széchenyi Baths.
Various key sights lie along the Small Boulevard ring road (connected by trams #47 and #49), including (from north to south) the Great Synagogue (marking the start of the Jewish Quarter, which feels a bit run-down but features several Jewish sights as well as a hopping nightlife zone with cool “ruin pubs”), the National Museum, and the Great Market Hall.
Several other points of interest are spread far and wide along the Great Boulevard ring road (circled by trams #4 and #6). From north to south, it passes Margaret Island (the city’s playground, in the middle of the Danube); the Nyugati/Western train station; the prominent Oktogon intersection, where it crosses Andrássy út; the opulent New York Café, with the Keleti/Eastern train station just up the street; and the intersection with Üllői út, near the Holocaust Memorial Center and the Applied Arts Museum.
Sleepy Buda looks pretty (and gets first billing in the city’s name), but most tourists spend less time here than in exciting Pest. The Buda side is dominated by two hills: Castle Hill, topped by the green dome of the Royal Palace and the spiny Neo-Gothic spire of the Matthias Church; and to the south, the taller, wooded Gellért Hill, capped by a 150-year-old fortress and the Liberation Monument.
The Castle District, atop Castle Hill (in district I), is historic but fairly dull. It’s packed with tourists by day, and dead at night. The pleasant Víziváros (VEE-zee-vah-rohsh) residential neighborhood, or “Water Town,” is squeezed between the castle and the river. The square called Batthyány tér, roughly at the north end of Víziváros, is a hub for the neighborhood, with a handy Metró stop (M2/red line), tram stops, market hall, and eateries. Just north of Castle Hill (and Víziváros) is Széll Kálmán tér, another transit hub for Buda, with a Metró station (M2/red line), several tram stops, and the giant Mammut shopping mall.
Tucked to the south of Gellért Hill is another fine residential district. Here you’ll find the Gellért Hotel, with its famous thermal baths; the Rudas Baths are also at the base of Gellért Hill, but farther to the north.
Central Buda is surrounded by a ring road, and the busy Hegyalja út rumbles through the middle of the tourists’ Buda (between Castle and Gellért Hills). Behind Castle and Gellért Hills is a low-lying neighborhood of little interest to tourists (except for the Déli/Southern train station), and beyond that rise the Buda Hills, a scenic and upscale residential area.
The city doesn’t end there. This book also includes tips for the Óbuda district north of central Buda; sights on the outskirts of town (but accessible on the suburban transit network), including Memento Park, Gödöllő Palace, and the small riverside town of Szentendre; and more.
Visitors attempting to “do” Budapest in just one day leave dazed, exhausted...and yearning for more. Two days are the bare minimum, and force you to tackle the city at a breakneck pace (and you still won’t see everything). Three days work, but assume you’ll go fast and/or skip some things. Four days are ideal, and a fifth day (or even sixth) gives you time for various day-trip options.
Budapest is quite decentralized: Plan your day ahead to minimize backtracking, and refer to your map frequently. Just about everything is walkable, but distances are far, and public transit can save valuable time.
Each of this book’s self-guided walks acts as a sightseeing spine for a particular neighborhood or area: Pest’s Leopold Town, Pest’s Town Center, Pest’s Andrássy út, Pest’s Heroes’ Square and City Park, Pest’s Jewish Quarter (in the Grand Synagogue chapter), and Buda’s Castle Hill. Each walk offers an orientation overview, with several in-depth sightseeing opportunities along the way. If you’re ambitious, you can do several of these walks in a single day—but you’ll have to skip most of the museums. To take your time and dip into each sight, spread the walks over several days.
When divvying your time between Buda and Pest, keep in mind that (aside from the Gellért and Rudas Baths) Buda’s sightseeing is mostly concentrated on Castle Hill, and can easily be seen in less than a day, while Pest deserves as much time as you’re willing to give it. Start by getting your bearings in Pest (where you’ll likely spend most of your time), then head for relatively laid-back Buda when you need a break from the big city.
Below are some possible plans, depending on the length of your trip. Note that these very ambitious itineraries assume you want to sightsee at a speedy pace. In the evening, you have a wide range of options (many of which are outlined in the Entertainment in Budapest chapter): enjoying good restaurants, taking in an opera or concert, snuggling on a romantic floodlit river cruise, relaxing in a thermal bath, exploring the city’s unique ruin pubs, or simply strolling the Danube embankments and bridges.
Your time will be full but memorable. Spend Day 1 in Pest. Start with the Leopold Town Walk, then the Pest Town Center Walk. From the Great Market Hall (at the end of that walk), circle around the Small Boulevard to Deák tér and consider the Andrássy út and Heroes’ Square/City Park walks. Or, if you’re exhausted already, just take the M1/yellow Metró line to Hősök tere, ogle the Heroes’ Square statues and Vajdahunyad Castle, and reward yourself with a soak at Széchenyi Baths. (Note that this schedule leaves virtually no time for entering any museums, though you might be able to fit in one or two big sights, such as the Parliament—for which you should book tickets online—Opera House, Great Synagogue, or House of Terror.)
On the morning of Day 2, tackle any Pest sights you didn’t have time for yesterday (or take the bus out to Memento Park). After lunch, ride bus #16 from Deák tér to Buda’s Castle Hill and follow the Castle Hill Walk. Head back to Pest for some final sightseeing and dinner.
Your first day is for getting your bearings in Pest. Choose between touring the Parliament or the Opera House; for the Parliament, book your tickets online. Then do the Leopold Town Walk, followed by the Andrássy út and Heroes’ Square/City Park walks, ending with a soak at the Széchenyi Baths.
On Day 2, delve deeper into Pest, starting with the Pest Town Center Walk. After visiting the Great Market Hall, you can cross the river to Buda for a soak at the Gellért or Rudas Baths (if you want more spa time), or circle around the Small Boulevard to see the National Museum and/or Great Synagogue and Jewish Quarter.
On Day 3, use the morning to see any remaining sights, then ride from Deák tér out to Memento Park on the park’s 11:00 direct bus. On returning, grab a quick lunch and take bus #16 from Deák tér to Castle Hill, where you’ll do the Castle Hill Walk.
With a fourth day, spread the Day 1 tours over more time, and circle back to any sights you’ve missed so far.
If you’ve got five or more days, consider some of these tempting destinations...
Eger, at the heart of a popular wine region and packed with offbeat sights, is an easy day trip from Budapest (about 2 hours by train or bus each way). Pécs, with a gorgeously colorful streetscape and engaging sightseeing, is a bit farther away (3 hours by train), but arguably even more interesting. Roughly between Budapest and Vienna, the small town of Sopron (historic and charming) and the Slovak capital of Bratislava (big, bustling, and on the move) are both worthy stopovers. Each of these is covered in its own chapter. While any of these could be done as long day trips from Budapest, it’s much more satisfying to spend the night (especially in Eger and Pécs).
The Day Trips from Budapest chapter covers excursions that are less appealing than the farther-flung towns mentioned above—but easier to do in a day from Budapest: The Danube Bend comprises three towns north of Budapest: the charming, Balkan-flavored artists’ colony of Szentendre; the castle at Visegrád; and Hungary’s most impressive church at Esztergom. (The Danube Bend is also doable by car on the way to Bratislava or Vienna.) To the east are Gödöllő Palace (dripping with Habsburg history, and a very easy side-trip from Budapest), the Lázár Lovaspark traditional horse show (a must for horse lovers, or for anyone wanting a peek at a Hungarian farm), and the more distant village of Hollókő, an open-air folk museum come to life (by car, these two can be combined into a single rewarding day, and you’ll be back in Budapest in time for dinner).
The city of Budapest runs several TIs (www.budapestinfo.hu, tel. 1/438-8080). The main branch is a few steps from the M2 and M3 Metró station at Deák tér (daily 8:00-20:00, free Wi-Fi, Sütő utca 2, near the McDonald’s, district V). Other locations include Franz Liszt Square, a block south of the Oktogon on Andrássy út (daily 12:00-20:00, free Wi-Fi, Liszt Ferenc tér 11, district VII, M1: Oktogon, tel. 1/322-4098), Heroes’ Square (in the ice rink building facing Vajdahunyad Castle, Sun-Thu 10:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-20:00), in a small kiosk just inside the main entrance of the Great Market Hall (Mon 6:00-17:00, Tue-Fri 6:00-18:00, Sat 6:00-15:00, closed Sun), and in both terminals at the airport (TI at Terminal 2A open daily 8:00-22:00; TI at Terminal 2B open daily 10:00-22:00). The helpfulness of Budapest’s TIs can vary, but all offer a nice variety of free, useful publications, including a good city map, the information-packed Budapest Guide booklet, and various events planners: Budapest Panorama, Servus, and the youthful Budapest Funzine. At any TI, you can collect a pile of other free brochures (for sights, bus tours, and more) and buy a Budapest Card.
Sightseeing Passes: The Budapest Card includes free use of all public transportation, free walking tours of Buda and Pest, a handful of free admissions to lesser museums (including the Budapest History Museum and Hungarian National Gallery), and 10-50 percent discounts on many other major museums and attractions (4,500 Ft/24 hours, 7,500 Ft/48 hours, 8,900 Ft/72 hours; includes handy 100-page booklet with maps, updated hours, and brief museum descriptions; www.budapest-card.com). If you take advantage of the included walking tours, the Budapest Card can be a good value for a very busy sightseer—do the arithmetic.
TourInform: The Hungarian National Tourist Office operates a small TI on Castle Hill. It’s located in the circular, white building in the park across from Matthias Church (daily 9:00-19:00, or 10:00-18:00 in winter).
Discover Budapest: Ben Frieday, an American in love with Budapest (and one of its women), runs this agency, which specializes in answering questions Americans have about Budapest and Hungary. It’s conveniently located near Andrássy út, behind the Opera House at Lázár utca 16 (district VI, M1: Opera). At their office, you can get online (150 Ft/15 minutes at a terminal, free Wi-Fi) or rent a bike (open daily 9:00-20:00, until 19:00 Nov-March, tel. 1/269-3843, mobile 0620-929-7506, www.discoverbudapest.com). This location is also the meeting point for Ben’s various tours: Absolute Walking Tours and Yellow Zebra bike and Segway tours (all described later, under “Tours in Budapest”).
For a comprehensive rundown on Budapest’s train stations, bus stations, airport, driving tips, and boat connections, see the Budapest Connections chapter.
Rip-Offs: Budapest feels—and is—safe, especially for a city of its size. While there’s little risk of violent crime, and I’ve rarely had someone try to rip me off here, you might run into a petty crook or two (such as con artists or pickpockets). As in any big city, it’s especially important to secure your valuables and wear a money belt in crowded and touristy places, particularly on the Metró and in trams. Keep your wits about you and refuse to be bullied or distracted.
Restaurants on the Váci utca shopping street are notorious for overcharging tourists. Here or anywhere in Budapest, don’t eat at a restaurant that doesn’t list prices on the menu, and always check your bill carefully. Increasingly, restaurants are adding a (legitimate) service charge of 10 to 12 percent to your bill; if you don’t notice this, you might accidentally double-tip (for more on tipping, see here).
If you’re a male in a touristy area and a gorgeous local girl takes a liking to you, avoid her. She’s a konzumlány (“consumption girl”), and the foreplay going on here will climax in your grand rip-off. You’ll wind up at her “favorite bar,” with astronomical prices enforced by a burly bouncer.
Budapest’s biggest crooks? Unscrupulous cabbies. For tips on outsmarting them, see “Getting Around Budapest—By Taxi” on here. Bottom line: Locals always call for a cab, rather than hail one on the street or at a taxi stand. If you’re not comfortable making the call yourself, ask your hotel or restaurant to call for you.
Emergency Numbers: The default emergency telephone number in Hungary is 112. You can also dial 107 for police, 104 for ambulance, or 105 for fire.
Medical Help: Near Buda’s Széll Kálmán tér, FirstMed Centers is a private, pricey, English-speaking clinic (by appointment or urgent care, call first, Hattyú utca 14, 5th floor, district I, M2: Széll Kálmán tér, tel. 1/224-9090, www.firstmedcenters.com). Hospitals (kórház) are scattered around the city.
Pharmacies: The helpful Dorottya Gyógyszertár pharmacy is dead-center in Pest, between Vörösmarty and Széchenyi squares. Because they cater to clientele from nearby international hotels, they have a useful directory that lists the Hungarian equivalent of US prescription medicines (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, closed Sat-Sun, Dorottya utca 13, district V, M1: Vörösmarty tér, for location see map on here, tel. 1/317-2374). Each district has one 24-hour pharmacy (these should be noted outside the entrance to any pharmacy).
Calling Mobile Numbers: In Hungary, mobile numbers (generally beginning with 0620, 0630, or 0670) are dialed differently, depending on where you’re calling from. I’ve listed them as you’d dial them from a fixed line within Hungary. From another country, or from a mobile phone in Hungary, omit the initial 06, and replace it with the international access code (011 from the US, 00 from Europe, or + on a mobile phone), then 36, then the number. For more tips on calling, see here.
Train Tickets: Ticket-buying lines can be long at train stations, particularly for long-distance international trains. If you want to buy your ticket in advance, MÁV (Hungarian Railways) has a very convenient ticket office right in the heart of downtown Pest. They generally speak English and sell tickets for no additional fee (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, closed Sat-Sun, just up from the Chain Bridge and across from Erzsébet tér at József Attila utca 16, district V, M1: Vörösmarty tér, for location see map on here).
Internet Access: Most hotels offer Wi-Fi or cable Internet (usually free, sometimes for a fee). Internet cafés are common—just look for signs or ask your hotel. In Pest, I like Discover Budapest, with fast access and good prices (free Wi-Fi, Internet terminals-150 Ft/15 minutes; see “Discover Budapest” listing on here).
Post Offices: These are marked with a smart green posta logo (usually open Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-12:00, closed Sun).
Laundry: The handiest option for full service is Laundromat-Mosómata, just behind the Opera House (2,400 Ft to wash and dry a big load, generally takes 3-5 hours, Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun; walk straight behind the Opera House and turn right on Ó utca, then look left for signs at #24—you’ll go up the main stairs and turn left to find it in the arcade; district VI, M1: Opera, for location see map on here, mobile 0670-340-0478). Two self-service launderettes are in the Jewish Quarter/nightlife zone (both charge 800 Ft to wash, 800 Ft to dry): Laundry Budapest, a humble but functional option with lots of machines tucked behind an Internet café, sits at the far end of this area, near the Blaha Lujza tér Metró stop. If you ask nicely and tip them, they may be willing to put it in the dryer and fold it for you (daily 9:00-24:00, last wash at 22:00, Dohány utca 37, tel. 1/781-0098, www.laundrybudapest.hu). Bazar Hostel, closer to the Great Synagogue, has just a few machines downstairs from their reception (open daily 24 hours, free Wi-Fi, Dohány utca 22).
Visitors to Budapest need only remember one date: 1896. For the millennial celebration of their ancestors’ arrival in Europe, Hungarians threw a huge blowout party. In the thousand years between 896 and 1896, the Magyars had gone from being a nomadic Central Asian tribe that terrorized the Continent to sharing the throne of one of the most successful empires Europe had ever seen.
On the morning of New Year’s Day, 1896, church bells clanged endlessly through the streets of Buda and Pest. In June of that year, the Habsburg royal couple Franz Josef and Sisi were two of the 5.7 million people who came to enjoy the Hungarian National Exhibition at City Park. At Vérmező Park (behind Castle Hill), whole oxen were grilled on the spit to feed commoners.
Budapest used its millennial celebration as an excuse to build monuments and buildings appropriate for the co-capital of a huge empire, including these landmarks:
• Heroes’ Square and the Millennium Monument
• Vajdahunyad Castle (in City Park)
• The riverside Parliament building (96 meters tall, with 96 steps at the main entry)
• St. István’s Basilica (also 96 meters tall)
• The M1/yellow Metró line, a.k.a. Földalatti (“Underground”)—the first subway on the Continent
• The Great Market Hall (and four other market halls)
• Andrássy út and most of the fine buildings lining it
• The Opera House
• A complete rebuilding of Matthias Church (on Castle Hill)
• The Fishermen’s Bastion decorative terrace (by Matthias Church)
• The green Liberty Bridge (then called Franz Josef Bridge, in honor of the ruling Habsburg emperor)
Ninety-six is the key number in Hungary—even the national anthem (when sung at the proper tempo) takes 96 seconds. But after all this fuss, it’s too bad that the date was wrong: A commission—convened to establish the exact year of the Magyars’ debut—determined it happened in 895. But city leaders knew they’d never make an 1895 deadline, and requested the finding be changed to 896.
English Bookstores: The Central European University Bookshop offers the best selection anywhere of scholarly books about this region (and beyond). They also sell guidebooks, literary fiction, and some popular American magazines—all in English (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00, closed Sun, just down the street in front of St. István’s Basilica at Zrínyi utca 12, district V, for location see map on here, tel. 1/327-3096).
Bestsellers has a fine selection of new books, mostly in English; it’s just around the corner from CEU Bookshop, near St. István’s Basilica (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Október 6 utca 11, tel. 1/312-1295).
The Discover Budapest office sells a wide range of secondhand books at its location just behind the Opera House at Lázár utca 16 (daily 9:00-20:00, until 19:00 Nov-March, see listing on here).
Local Guidebook: András Török’s fun, idiosyncratic Budapest: A Critical Guide is the best guidebook by a local writer. Its quirky walking tours do a nice job of capturing the city’s spirit (available in English at some souvenir stands and bookshops).
Bike Rental: Budapest, whose streets are congested with traffic, isn’t the easiest city for bicycling—though things are improving, with more and more bike lanes being included in renovated urban zones. Those comfortable with urban cycling may find that it helps them zip around the city more smoothly. You can rent a bike at Yellow Zebra, part of Discover Budapest (2,000-3,000 Ft/all day, 3,000-4,500 Ft/24 hours, price depends on type of bike; see “Discover Budapest” listing on here).
Budapest also has a subsidized borrow-a-bike system called Bubi (for “Budapest Bikes”). Bike stations are scattered throughout the Town Center and adjoining areas; you can pick a bike up at any station, and drop it off at any other—making this handy for one-way trips. It’s free to use a bike for 30 minutes or less, then costs 500 Ft for each 30 additional minutes. But it requires either a membership card (9,450 Ft for a year) or a short-term “ticket” (500 Ft/24 hours, 1,000 Ft/72 hours, 2,000 Ft/week, plus a 25,000-Ft deposit on your credit card for the duration of the ticket; you can buy a ticket at www.bkk.hu/bubi or at many docking stations; your PIN is sent to your mobile phone). If you’ll be using a bike for short rides several times throughout your visit, this system is worth considering. You can get all of the details at www.bkk.hu/bubi, or ask at the TI.
Drivers: Friendly, English-speaking Gábor Balázs can drive you around the city or into the surrounding countryside (4,000 Ft/hour, 3-hour minimum in city, 4-hour minimum in countryside—good for a Danube Bend excursion, mobile 0620-936-4317, bgabor.e@gmail.com). Zsolt Gál is also available for transfers and side-trips, and specializes in helping people track down Jewish sites in the surrounding areas (mobile 0670-452-4900, forma111562@gmail.com). Note that these are drivers, not tour guides. For tour guides who can drive you to outlying sights, see “Tours in Budapest,” later.
Best Views: Budapest is a city of marvelous vistas. Some of the best are from the Citadella fortress (high on Gellért Hill), the promenade in front of the Royal Palace and the Fishermen’s Bastion on top of Castle Hill, and the embankments or many bridges spanning the Danube (especially the Chain Bridge). Don’t forget the view from the tour boats on the Danube—particularly lovely at night.
Updates to this Book: For updates to this book, check www.ricksteves.com/update.
Budapest sprawls. Connecting your sightseeing just on foot is tedious and unnecessary. It’s crucial to get comfortable with the public transportation system—Metró lines, trams, buses, trolley buses, and boats that can take you virtually anywhere you want to go. Budapest’s well-planned cityscape and thoughtfully coordinated transit network combine to make it one of the easiest big European cities to zip around. Budapest’s transit system website, www.bkk.hu, offers a useful route-planner and a downloadable app for on-the-go transit info.
Tickets: The same tickets work for the entire system. Buy them at kiosks, Metró ticket windows, or machines (with English instructions). As it can be frustrating to find a ticket machine (especially when you see your tram or bus approaching), I generally invest in a multi-day ticket to have the freedom of hopping on at will.
Your options are as follows:
• Single ticket (vonaljegy, for a ride of up to an hour on any means of transit; transfers allowed only within the Metró system)—350 Ft (or 450 Ft if bought from the driver)
• Short single Metró ride (Metrószakaszjegy, 3 stops or fewer on the Metró)—300 Ft
• Transfer ticket (átszállójegy—allowing up to 90 minutes, including one transfer between Metró and bus)—530 Ft
• Pack of 10 single tickets (10 darabos gyűjtőjegy), which can be shared—3,000 Ft (that’s 300 Ft per ticket, saving you 50 Ft per ticket; note that these must stay together as a single pack—they can’t be sold separately)
• Unlimited multi-day travel cards for Metró, bus, and tram, including a 24-hour travelcard (24 órás jegy, 1,650 Ft/24 hours), 72-hour travelcard (72 órás jegy, 4,150 Ft/72 hours), and seven-day travelcard (hetijegy, 4,950 Ft/7 days)
• 24-hour group travel card (csoportos 24 órás jegy, 3,300 Ft), covering up to five adults—a great deal for groups of three to five people
• The Budapest Card, which combines a multi-day ticket with sightseeing discounts (but it’s generally a bad value—see here)
Always validate single-ride tickets as you enter the bus, tram, or Metró station (stick it in the elbow-high box). On older buses and trams that have little red validation boxes, stick your ticket in the black slot, then pull the slot toward you to punch holes in your ticket. Multi-day tickets need be validated only once. The stern-looking people with blue-and-green armbands waiting as you enter or exit the Metró want to see your validated ticket. Cheaters are fined 6,000 Ft on the spot, and you’ll be surprised how often you’re checked—they seem to be stationed at virtually every Metró escalator. All public transit runs from 4:30 in the morning until 23:10.
New Transit Cards: Likely starting in 2016 or 2017, Budapest plans to phase in pay-as-you-go cards, which will replace the paper tickets described previously. As is now common in many major cities worldwide (from London’s Oyster Card to New York’s Metrocard), public transit passengers will buy a card and load it up with credit, which will be deducted according to how long they ride—so they’ll need to “touch in” and “touch out” as they enter and exit the system. For short-time tourists, individual electronic “smart paper” tickets will also be available. See www.bkk.hu for the latest.
Handy Terms: Á ___ félé means “in the direction of ___.” Megálló means “stop” or “station,” and Végállomás means “end of the line.”
Riding Budapest’s efficient Metró, you really feel like you’re down in the guts of the city. There are four working lines:
• M1/yellow—The first underground rail line on the Continent, this shallow line runs beneath Andrássy út from the center to City Park (see “Millennium Underground of 1896” on here).
• M2/red—Built during the communist days, it’s 115 feet deep and designed to double as a bomb shelter. This line has undergone a thorough renovation, leaving its stations new and shiny. Going under the Danube to Buda, the M2 connects the Déli/Southern train station, Széll Kálmán tér (where you catch bus #16, #16A, or #116 to the top of Castle Hill), Batthyány tér (Víziváros and the station where you catch the HÉV train to Óbuda or Szentendre), Kossuth tér (behind the Parliament), Astoria (near the Great Synagogue on the Small Boulevard), and the Keleti/Eastern train station (where it crosses the M4/green line).
• M3/blue—This line makes a broad, boomerang-shaped swoop north to south on the Pest side. It’s noticeably older, but slated for renovation soon. Key stops include the Nyugati/Western train station, Ferenciek tere (in the heart of Pest’s Town Center), Kálvin tér (near the Great Market Hall and many recommended hotels; this is also where it crosses the M4/green line), and Corvin-negyed (near the Holocaust Memorial Center).
• M4/green—The newest line (opened in 2014) runs from southern Buda to the Gellért Baths, under the Danube to Fővám tér (behind the Great Market Hall) and Kálvin tér (where it crosses the M3/blue line), then up to Rákóczi tér (on the Grand Boulevard) and the Keleti/Eastern train station (where it crosses the M2/red line). Many of its stations boast boldly modern, waste-of-space concrete architecture that’s eye-opening to simply stroll through; the one at Gellért tér has a thermal spring-fed waterfall coursing past the main staircase.
The three original lines—M1, M2, and M3—cross only once: at the Deák tér stop (often signed as Deák Ferenc tér) in the heart of Pest, near where Andrássy út begins.
Aside from the historic M1 line, most Metró stations are at intersections of ring roads and other major thoroughfares. You’ll usually exit the Metró into a confusing underpass packed with kiosks, fast-food stands, and makeshift markets. Directional signs (listing which streets, addresses, and tram or bus stops are near each exit) help you find the right exit. Or do the prairie-dog routine: Surface to get your bearings, then head back underground to find the correct stairs up to your destination.
Metró stops themselves are usually very well-marked, with a list of upcoming stops on the wall behind the tracks. Digital clocks either count down to the next train’s arrival, or count up from the previous train’s departure; either way, you’ll rarely wait more than five minutes during peak times.
You’ll ride very long, steep, fast-moving escalators to access most Metró stops (except on the shallow M1 line). Hang on tight, enjoy the gale as trains below shoot through the tunnels...and don’t make yourself dizzy by trying to read the Burger King ads.
Budapest’s suburban rail system, or HÉV (pronounced “hayv,” stands for Helyiérdekű Vasút, literally “Railway of Local Interest”), branches off to the outskirts and beyond. Of the four lines, tourists are likely to use only two: the Szentendre line (H5/purple), which begins at Batthyány tér in Buda’s Víziváros neighborhood (at the M2/red line stop of the same name) and heads through Óbuda to the charming Danube Bend town of Szentendre; and the Gödöllő line (H8/pink), which begins at Örs vezér tere (in outer Pest, at the end of the M2/red line) and heads to the town of Gödöllő, with its Habsburg palace. (Szentendre and Gödöllő are both described in the Day Trips from Budapest chapter.)
The HÉV is covered by standard transit tickets and passes for rides within the city of Budapest (such as to Óbuda). But if going beyond—such as to Szentendre or Gödöllő—you’ll have to pay more. Tell the ticket-seller (or punch into the machine) where you’re going, and you’ll be issued the proper ticket. If you have a transit pass, you’ll pay only the difference.
Budapest’s trams are handy and frequent, taking you virtually anywhere the Metró doesn’t. Here are some trams you might use (note that all of these run in both directions):
Tram #2: Follows Pest’s Danube embankment, parallel to Váci utca. From north to south, it begins at the Great Boulevard (near Margaret Bridge) and stops on either side of the Parliament (north side near the visitors center/Országház stop, as well as south side near the Kossuth tér Metró stop), Széchenyi István tér and the Chain Bridge, Vigadó tér, and the Great Market Hall. From there, it continues southward past the Bálna cultural center to the Petőfi Bridge, then all the way to the “Millennium City” complex near Rákóczi Bridge.
Trams #19 and #41: Run along Buda’s Danube embankment from Batthyány tér (with an M2/red Metró station, and HÉV trains to Óbuda and Szentendre). From Batthyány tér, these trams run (north to south) through Víziváros to Clark Ádám tér (the bottom of the Castle Hill funicular, near the stop for bus #16 up to Castle Hill; get off here and walk a few minutes to take the Várkert Bazár grand staircase up to the Royal Palace), then under Elisabeth Bridge (get off at Döbrentei tér stop for the Rudas Baths) and around the base of Gellért Hill to the Gellért Hotel and Baths (Gellért tér stop).
Trams #4 and #6: Zip around Pest’s Great Boulevard ring road (Nagykörút), connecting Nyugati/Western train station and the Oktogon with the southern tip of Margaret Island and Buda’s Széll Kálmán tér (with M2/red Metró station).
Trams #47 and #49: Connect the Gellért Baths in Buda with Pest’s Small Boulevard ring road (Kiskörút), with stops at the Great Market Hall, the National Museum, the Great Synagogue (Astoria stop), and Deák tér (end of the line).
I use the Metró and trams for most of my Budapest commuting. But some buses are useful for shortcuts within the city, or for reaching outlying sights. Note that the transit company draws a distinction between gas-powered “buses” and electric “trolley buses” (which are powered by overhead cables). Unless otherwise noted, you can assume the following are standard buses:
Buses #16, #16A, and #116: All head up to the top of Castle Hill (get off at Dísz tér, in the middle of the hill—the closest stop to the Royal Palace). You can catch any of these three at Széll Kálmán tér (M2/red Metró line). When coming from the other direction, bus #16 makes several handy stops in Pest (Deák tér, Széchenyi István tér), then crosses the Chain Bridge for more stops in Buda (including Clark Ádám tér, at Buda end of Chain Bridge on its way up to the castle).
Trolley buses #70 and #78: Zip from near the Opera House (intersection of Andrássy út and Nagymező utca) to the Parliament (Kossuth tér).
Bus #178: Goes from Keleti/Eastern train station to central Pest (Astoria and Ferenciek tere Metró stops), then over the Elisabeth Bridge to Buda.
Bus #26: Begins at Nyugati/Western train station and heads around the Great Boulevard to Margaret Island, making several stops along the island.
Bus #27: Runs from either side of Gellért Hill to just below the Citadella fortress at the hill’s peak (Búsuló Juhász stop).
Bus #200E: Connects Liszt Ferenc Airport to the Kőbánya-Kispest M3/blue Metró station.
Buses #101 and #150: Run from Keletenföld (the end of the line for the M4/green Metró line) to Memento Park.
Buses #54 and #55: Head from Boráros tér (at the Pest end of the Petőfi Bridge) to the Ecseri Flea Market.
Budapest’s public transit authority operates a system of Danube riverboats (hajójárat) that connect strategic locations throughout the city. The riverboat system has drawbacks: Frequency is sparse (1-2/hour on weekdays, hourly on weekends; off-season weekdays only, hourly), and it’s typically slower than hopping on the Metró or a tram. But it’s also a romantic, cheap alternative to pricey riverboat cruises, and can be a handy way to connect some sightseeing points.
A 750-Ft ticket covers any trip; on weekdays, it’s also covered by a 24-hour, 72-hour, or seven-day travelcards (but not by the Budapest Card; on weekends, you have to buy a ticket regardless of your pass).
Lines #D11 (on weekdays) and #D13 (on weekends) run in both directions through the city, including these stops within downtown Budapest:
• Margitsziget/Szállodák and Margitsziget/Centenáriumi emlékmű, at the northern and southern ends of Margaret Island (respectively);
• Jászai Mari tér, at the Pest end of Margaret Bridge;
• Batthyány tér, on the Buda embankment in Víziváros;
• Kossuth Lajos tér, near the Parliament on the Pest side;
• Várkert Bazár, at the base of the grand entrance staircase to Buda Castle;
• Petőfi tér, on the Pest embankment next to the Danube Legenda riverboats (dock 8); and
• Szent Gellért tér, at the Buda end of Liberty Bridge, next to the Gellért Baths.
Some stops may be closed if the river level gets very low; as this is a relatively new service, expect changes. For details, see www.bkk.hu.
Budapest’s public transportation is good enough that you probably won’t need to take many taxis. But if you do, you may run into a dishonest driver. Arm yourself with knowledge: Budapest has recently introduced stringent new regulations. Official taxis must be painted yellow and black, and must charge identical rates, regardless of company: a drop rate of 450 Ft, and then 280 Ft/kilometer, plus 70 Ft/minute for wait time. (The prices go up at night, between 22:00 and 6:00 in the morning.) Prices are per ride, not per passenger. A 10 percent tip is expected. A typical ride within central Budapest shouldn’t run more than 2,000 Ft. Despite what some slimy cabbies may tell you, there’s no legitimate extra charge for crossing the river.
Instead of hailing a taxi on the street, do as the locals do and call a cab from a reputable company—it’s cheaper and you’re more likely to get an honest driver. Try City Taxi (tel. 1/211-1111), Taxi 6x6 (tel. 1/266-6666), or Főtaxi (tel. 1/222-2222). Most dispatchers speak English, but if you’re uncomfortable calling, you can ask your hotel or restaurant to call for you.
Many “cabs” you’d hail on the streets are there only to prey on rich, green tourists. Avoid unmarked taxis (nicknamed “hyenas” by locals), as well as any cabs that wait at tourist spots and train stations. If you do wave down a cab on the street, choose one that’s yellow and black, and marked with an official company logo and telephone number (otherwise, it’s not official). Ask for a rough estimate before you get in—if it doesn’t sound reasonable, walk away. If you wind up being dramatically overcharged for a ride, simply pay what you think is fair and go inside. If the driver follows you (unlikely), your hotel receptionist will defend you.
On a recent trip to Budapest, I arrived late at night at the Keleti/Eastern train station. The lone, unmarked taxi out front wanted 4,000 Ft for the ride to my hotel. Following my own advice, I called a legitimate company and ordered a taxi from the English-speaking dispatcher. A few minutes later, an honest cabbie picked me up and whisked me to my hotel...for 1,500 Ft.
Budapest has an abundance of enthusiastic, hardworking young guides who speak perfect English and enjoy showing off their city. Given the reasonable fees and efficient use of your time, hiring your own personal expert is an excellent value. While they might be available last-minute, it’s better to reserve in advance by email. I have three favorites, any of whom can do half-day or full-day tours, and can also drive you into the countryside (€90/4 hours, €150/8 hours): Péter Pölczman is an exceptional guide who really puts you in touch with the Budapest you came to see (mobile 0620-926-0557, www.budapestyourself.com, polczman@freestart.hu, or peter@budapestyourself.com). Andrea Makkay has professional polish and a smart understanding of what visitors really want to experience (mobile 0620-962-9363, www.privateguidebudapest.com, andrea.makkay@gmail.com—arrange details by email; if Andrea is busy, she can arrange to send you with another guide). And George Farkas is particularly well-attuned to the hip, stylish side of this fast-changing metropolis (mobile 0670-335-8030, georgefarkas@gmail.com).
Elemér Boreczky, a semi-retired university professor, leads walking tours with a soft-spoken, scholarly approach, emphasizing Budapest’s rich tapestry of architecture as “frozen music.” Elemér is ideal if you want a walking graduate-level seminar about the easy-to-miss nuances of this grand city (€25/hour, tel. 1/386-0885, mobile 0630-491-1389, www.culturaltours.mlap.hu, boreczky.elemer@gmail.com).
Péter, Andrea, George, and Elemér have all been indispensable help to me in writing and updating this book.
Budapest has several backpacker-oriented walking-tour companies. While most travelers can get by with the self-guided walks and tours in this book—and I highly recommend hiring one of the excellent local guides listed previously—these outfits are handy for those who want a live guide without paying for a private tour.
Budapest’s best-established outfit is Absolute Walking Tours, run by Oregonian Ben Frieday and offering tours that are informal but informative. Travelers with this book get a 500-Ft discount on any tour booked in person; or, if you book online, you get a discount (5-30 percent off the full price, depending on tour; enter coupon code “RICK”). The Absolute Walk gives you a good overview of Budapest (4,500 Ft, daily at 10:00, 3.5 hours). The Hammer & Sickle Tour begins at a mini-museum of communist artifacts, then takes you out into the streets to see sites related to the 1956 Uprising (4,500 Ft, 2-3/week, 3.5 hours). The Hungro Gastro Food and Wine Tasting Tour gives you information on traditional recipes and ingredients, and a chance to taste several specialties at the Great Market Hall and nearby specialty shops (21,000 Ft, 6/week, 3.5 hours, reservations required). In the evening, consider the Night Stroll, which includes a one-hour cruise on the Danube (11,000 Ft, 4/week March-Oct, 2/week Nov-Feb, 3 hours). They also offer nightlife tours, pub crawls, a Christmas Market tour (Dec only), and an “Alternative Budapest” tour that visits artsy, edgy, off-the-beaten path parts of town (for details, see www.absolutetours.com or contact the Discover Budapest office at tel. 1/269-3843, mobile 0620-929-7506). Most tours depart from the Discover Budapest office behind the Opera House (see the “Discover Budapest” listing on here); however, the food-and-wine tour meets at the Great Market Hall, and the “Alternative” tour departs from the blocky, green-domed Lutheran church at Deák tér, near the Metró station. Note: These prices are for 2015, and may be slightly higher in 2016.
You’ll also see various companies advertising “free” walking tours. While there is no set fee to take these tours, guides are paid only if you tip (they’re hoping for 2,000 Ft/person). They offer a basic 2.5-hour introduction to the city (departing daily at 10:30, and again at 14:00 or 14:30), as well as itineraries focusing on the communist era and the Jewish Quarter. Because they’re working for tips, the generally good-quality, certified guides are highly motivated to impress their customers. But because the “free” tag attracts very large groups, these tours tend to be less intimate than paid tours, and (especially the introductory tours) take a once-over-lightly “infotainment” approach. Still, these “free” tours get rave reviews from travelers and offer an inexpensive introduction to the city. As this scene is continually evolving, look for local fliers to learn about the options and meeting points.
Cruising the Danube, while touristy, is a fun and convenient way to get a feel for the city’s grand layout. The most established company, Danube Legenda, is a class act that runs well-maintained, glassed-in panoramic boats day and night. All cruises include a free drink and romantic headphone commentary. By night, TV monitors show the interiors of the great buildings as you float by.
I’ve negotiated a special discount with Legenda for my readers (but you must book directly, in person, and ask for the Rick Steves price). By day, the one-hour “Duna Bella” cruise costs 3,120 Ft for Rick Steves readers; if you want, you can hop off at Margaret Island to explore on your own, then return after 1.5 hours on a later cruise (6/day May-Aug, 5/day April and Sept, 4/day March and Oct, 1/day Nov-Feb—but no Margaret Island stop in winter). By night, the one-hour “Danube Legend” cruise (with no Margaret Island visit) costs 4,400 Ft for Rick Steves readers (4/day March-Oct, 1/day Nov-Feb). On weekends, it’s smart to call ahead and reserve a spot for the evening cruises. Note: These special prices are for 2015, and may be slightly higher in 2016.
The Legenda dock is in front of the Marriott on the Pest embankment (find pedestrian access under tram tracks at downriver end of Vigadó tér, district V, M1: Vörösmarty tér, tel. 1/317-2203, www.legenda.hu). Competing river-cruise companies are nearby, but given the discount, Legenda offers the best value.
If you just want to get out on the water, but don’t care for a full tour with commentary, consider Mahart’s cheap hop from Vigadó tér to Margaret Island (800 Ft one-way, 1,500 Ft round-trip, 4/day, 45 minutes, June-Aug daily, Sept and May Sat-Sun only, none Oct-April, boat dock directly in front of Vigadó tér). Mahart’s standard sightseeing cruises pale in comparison to Legenda’s.
Various companies offer bike tours around the city; as the most interesting part of town (Pest) is quite flat and spread out, this is a good way to see the place. The best-established option is Yellow Zebra, a sister company of Absolute Walking Tours (8,000 Ft, 3.5 hours; April-Oct daily at 11:00; additional shorter tour June-Aug daily at 17:00 for 6,500 Ft; Nov and March only Fri-Sun at 11:00—cancelled in below-freezing temperatures; no tours Dec-Feb).
The same company also offers tours of the city by Segway (a stand-up electric scooter). Although expensive, it’s a unique way to see Budapest while trying out a Segway. Each tour begins with a 30-minute training; my readers get a 15 percent discount when booking online, or 500 Ft off if booking in person (18,000 Ft/2.5 hours, daily at 9:30 and 15:00, also an evening tour April-Oct daily at 18:00). You can reserve and prepay online (www.yellowzebratours.com, enter coupon code “RICK”).
The bike and Segway tours both meet at the Discover Budapest office behind the Opera House (see here; tel. 1/269-3843, mobile 0620-929-7506, www.yellowzebratours.com).
Various companies run hop-on, hop-off bus tours, which make 12 to 16 stops as they cruise around town on a two-hour loop with headphone commentary (generally 5,000/24 hours, 6,000 Ft/48 hours). Most companies also offer a wide variety of other tours, including dinner boat cruises and trips to the Danube Bend. Pick up fliers about all these tours at the TI or in your hotel lobby.
This company offers a bus tour with a twist: Its amphibious bus can actually float on the Danube River, effectively making this a combination bus-and-boat tour. The live guide imparts dry English commentary as you roll (and float). While it’s a fun gimmick, the entry ramp into the river (facing the north end of Margaret Island) is far from the most scenic stretch, and the river portion is slow-paced—showing you the same Margaret Island scenery twice, plus a circle in front of the Parliament. The Danube Legenda boat tours, described earlier, give you more scenic bang for your buck (7,500 Ft, 2 hours, 4/day April-Oct, 3/day Nov-March, departs from Széchenyi tér near Gresham Palace, tel. 1/332-2555, www.riverride.com).
Andy Steves (Rick’s son) runs WSA Europe, offering three-day and longer guided and unguided packages—including accommodations, sightseeing, and unique local experiences—for budget travelers across 11 top European cities, including Budapest (from €99, see www.wsaeurope.com for details).