The Pasta and Noodle Bowl, The Complete Plant-Based Cookbook

Photos: Spicy Basil Rice Noodles with Crispy Tofu, Snap Peas, and Bell Peppers; Spiced Vegetable Couscous; Spaghetti with Spring Vegetables

Penne with Roasted Cherry Tomato Sauce

Pasta alla Norma

1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters and coat lightly with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant with salt in bowl, then spread evenly over prepared plate. Microwave, uncovered, until eggplant is dry to touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking. Let eggplant cool slightly, then return to bowl and toss gently with 1 tablespoon oil.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned and fully tender, about 10 minutes; transfer to clean plate.

3. Let now-empty skillet cool slightly, about 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes to cooled skillet and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes and anchovy substitute, increase heat to medium-high, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Stir in eggplant and cook until eggplant is warmed through and flavors meld, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in olives, parsley, capers, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt to taste.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with extra oil and ricotta salata, if using.

Fiery Macaroni

Penne with Red Pepper Pesto

1. Combine two-thirds of bell peppers, 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until bell peppers are softened and just beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.

2. Add onion, tomato, basil, peperoncini flakes, and ½ teaspoon garlic and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and bell peppers are browned in spots, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and let cool for 5 minutes.

3. Process cashew ricotta, vegan Parmesan substitute, cooked bell pepper mixture, remaining one-third bell peppers, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in food processor until coarsely ground, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, add vinegar and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and process until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add pesto and toss to combine. Before serving, adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste.

Gemelli with Pesto, Potatoes, and Green Beans

1. Bring ½ cup water and ¼ teaspoon salt to boil in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add green beans, cover, and cook until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain green beans and transfer to rimmed baking sheet.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add potatoes and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until potatoes are tender but still hold their shape, 9 to 12 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to sheet with beans.

3. Add pasta to boiling water and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add pesto, lemon juice, ¼ cup reserved cooking water, pepper, and potatoes and beans and stir vigorously with rubber spatula until sauce has creamy appearance. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

Whole-Wheat Spaghetti with Greens, Beans, and Tomatoes

1. Cook 3 tablespoons oil and sliced garlic in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer garlic to paper towel–lined plate; sprinkle with pinch salt.

2. Add onion to oil left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and just beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add half of spinach and cook, tossing occasionally, until beginning to wilt, about 2 minutes. Whisk broth, miso, and nutritional yeast together in bowl, then add to skillet with tomatoes, remaining spinach, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Bring to simmer, then cover and cook, tossing occasionally, until spinach is completely wilted, about 10 minutes (mixture will be somewhat loose and watery at this point). Stir in beans and olives, then remove skillet from heat and cover to keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until nearly al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Stir in spinach mixture and cook over medium heat, tossing to combine, until pasta is al dente and most of liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes.

4. Off heat, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with garlic chips and vegan Parmesan substitute and drizzling with extra oil.

Farfalle and Summer Squash with Tomatoes, Basil, and Pine Nuts

Campanelle with Roasted Cauliflower, Garlic, and Walnuts

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position, place large rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Remove outer papery skins from garlic; cut top quarters of heads and discard. Place garlic heads, cut side up, in center of 12-inch square of aluminum foil and drizzle each with ½ teaspoon oil. Wrap garlic heads tightly in foil. Place packet on oven rack next to baking sheet and roast until garlic is very tender, about 40 minutes.

2. While garlic roasts, combine cauliflower wedges, 2 tablespoons oil, salt, pepper, and sugar in bowl; rub gently to distribute oil and seasonings. Remove baking sheet from oven and carefully lay cauliflower wedges cut side down on hot baking sheet. Roast cauliflower until well browned and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Transfer cauliflower and garlic packet to cutting board and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, cut cauliflower into ½-inch pieces and unwrap garlic. Gently squeeze garlic cloves from skin into medium bowl, and mash smooth with fork. Stir in lemon juice and pepper flakes, then slowly whisk in remaining ¼ cup oil.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add chopped cauliflower, garlic sauce, vegan Parmesan substitute, parsley, and ¼ cup reserved cooking water and toss to combine. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved ¾ cup cooking water as needed and season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with walnuts and serve.

PREPARING GARLIC FOR ROASTING

1. Rinse garlic head and remove outer papery skin. Cut top quarter off of garlic head so that tops of cloves are exposed.

2. Place garlic head cut side up in center of 12-inch square of aluminum foil, drizzle with oil, and wrap securely.

3. After roasted garlic head has cooled, remove from foil. Using your hand or flat edge of chef’s knife, squeeze garlic cloves from skins, starting from root end and working up.

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and White Beans

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Orecchiette is the quintessential pasta shape of Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot. It is often served with greens, traditionally turnip tops, though broccoli rabe is also frequently used. Sometimes the dish includes sausage to add richness and offset the slight bitterness of the greens. For our plant-based rendition, we swapped in buttery, creamy white beans, which achieved the same effect in conjunction with our Vegan Parmesan Substitute (or dairy Parmesan). To boost the beans’ flavor, we cooked a shallot with garlic, oregano, and fennel seeds before adding the beans. To ensure that the thick stalks, tender leaves, and small florets of the broccoli rabe all cooked evenly, we boiled them briefly, pulling them from the pot just as they turned crisp-tender. You can substitute 2 pounds of broccoli, cut into 1-inch florets, for the broccoli rabe.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, minced

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried

½ teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed

1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch pieces

Table salt for cooking vegetables and pasta

1 pound orecchiette

1 cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan cheese

1. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, fennel seeds, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in beans and cook until warmed through, about 2 minutes; set aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add broccoli rabe and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer broccoli rabe to skillet with bean mixture.

3. Return water to boil, add pasta, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add bean–broccoli rabe mixture, vegan Parmesan substitute, and ⅓ cup reserved cooking water and toss to combine. Before serving, adjust consistency with remaining reserved ⅔ cup cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Spaghetti with Spring Vegetables

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works For this spin on the Italian American favorite pasta primavera, we made inventive use of zucchini by overcooking it with olive oil and aromatics to break it down and create a silky, creamy-feeling, but cream-free sauce that nicely coated our favorite spring vegetables (asparagus and peas) and spaghetti. Thanks to a tip we picked up from a legendary old-school New York City chef, we briefly marinated cherry tomatoes with oil and garlic and spooned them over the top of the pasta, along with some fresh mint, to finish off our dish with contrasting color and a lively lilt. The zucchini slices will break down as they cook to create a base for the sauce; do not be alarmed when the slices turn soft and creamy and lose their shape. If you use dairy cheese for garnish, we prefer Pecorino Romano in this dish.

6 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for serving

5 garlic cloves (1 small, minced; 4 sliced thin)

¾ teaspoon table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼ teaspoon pepper

1 pound spaghetti

1 zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into 1-inch lengths

1 cup frozen peas, thawed

¼ cup minced fresh chives

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Pecorino Romano cheese

2 tablespoons torn fresh mint leaves

1. Toss tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, minced garlic, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper together in bowl; set aside.

2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta and return it to pot.

3. Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add zucchini, pepper flakes, sliced garlic, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook, covered, until zucchini softens and breaks down, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add asparagus, peas, and ¾ cup water and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until asparagus is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

4. Add vegetable mixture, chives, lemon juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pasta and toss to combine; season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl, sprinkle with vegan Parmesan substitute, and drizzle with extra oil. Spoon tomatoes and their juices over top and sprinkle with mint. Serve.

Pasta e Ceci

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works The comforting Italian stew known as pasta e ceci is prepared in different ways in different households, but it always combines a small pasta shape with chickpeas. We began ours by pulsing carrots, celery, and garlic into a soffritto and then cooking the soffritto in a Dutch oven to build a flavorful fond. A little Anchovy Substitute added an umami boost. Red pepper flakes introduced some heat and minced fresh rosemary added a woodsy quality. We decided that chopped tomatoes were essential, but for speed we turned to canned peeled tomatoes and chopped them in the food processor. They went into the pot with canned chickpeas (including their starchy liquid for added body) to simmer. The chickpeas began to soften after just 10 minutes, at which point we added ditalini and cooked the stew a little longer. The chickpeas took on a creamy softness that complemented the tender pasta and thick, silky broth. Another short pasta can be used, but substitute by weight and not by volume.

1 small carrot, peeled and chopped

1 small celery rib, chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 onion, halved and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving

½ teaspoon Anchovy Substitute (this page)

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas (do not drain)

2 cups water

1 teaspoon table salt

8 ounces (1½ cups) ditalini

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

½ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan cheese

1. Pulse carrot, celery, and garlic in food processor until finely chopped, 8 to 10 pulses. Add onion and pulse until onion is cut into ⅛- to ¼-inch pieces, 8 to 10 pulses; transfer carrot mixture to Dutch oven. Pulse tomatoes in now-empty food processor until coarsely chopped, 8 to 10 pulses; set aside.

2. Add oil to carrot mixture in Dutch oven and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fond begins to form on bottom of pot, about 5 minutes. Add anchovy substitute, pepper flakes, and rosemary and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes, chickpeas and their liquid, water, and salt and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add pasta and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with vegan Parmesan substitute, drizzle with extra oil, and serve.

Fideos with Chickpeas

Serves 4

Why This Recipe Works One of the biggest stars of traditional Spanish cooking is fideos, a richly flavored relative of paella that calls for breaking noodles into small lengths and toasting them until nut-brown before cooking them in a garlicky, tomatoey stock with seafood and chorizo. We thought the bold tomato stock and toasted noodles would work well with chickpeas, another common Spanish ingredient, so we developed our plant-foward version using those. For the sofrito, we finely chopped the onion (so it browned more quickly) and used chopped canned tomatoes. White wine and the juice from our canned tomatoes, along with smoked paprika, made a stock with complex depth of flavor. If your skillet is not broiler-safe, once the pasta is tender, transfer the mixture to a broiler-safe 13 by 9-inch baking dish lightly coated with extra-virgin olive oil. Broil and serve as directed.

8 ounces spaghettini or thin spaghetti, broken into 1- to 2-inch lengths

2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 onion, chopped fine

½ teaspoon table salt, divided

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained and chopped fine, juice reserved

3 garlic cloves, minced

1½ teaspoons smoked paprika

2¾ cups water

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed

½ cup dry white wine

½ teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Lemon wedges

1. Toss pasta and 2 teaspoons oil in broiler-safe 12-inch skillet until pasta is evenly coated. Toast pasta over medium- high heat, stirring frequently, until browned and releases nutty aroma (pasta should be color of peanut butter), 6 to 10 minutes; transfer to bowl.

2. Wipe out now-empty skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and cook until mixture is thick, dry, and slightly darkened in color, 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Reduce heat to medium, stir in garlic and smoked paprika, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in toasted pasta until thoroughly combined. Stir in water, chickpeas, wine, pepper, reserved tomato juice, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and pasta is just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack 5 to 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler.

4. Transfer skillet to oven and broil until surface of pasta is dry with crisped, browned spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, then sprinkle with parsley; serve with lemon wedges.

BREAKING PASTA FOR FIDEOS

1. Loosely fold 4 ounces of spaghettini in dish towel, keeping pasta flat, not bunched.

2. Press pasta bundle repeatedly against edge of counter to break pasta into 1- to 2-inch lengths. Repeat with remaining 4 ounces spaghettini.

Fettuccine with Walnut Sauce

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works The creamy walnut sauce that cloaks the fettuccine in this dish comes together quickly in the food processor while the pasta cooks but is a powerhouse of rich, nutty flavor. Equal parts plant-based (or dairy) creamer and Vegan Parmesan Substitute (or Parmesan) add thickness and saltiness to the sauce, while lemon juice brightens and lightens the mixture. A touch of nutmeg adds a warm spice element that heightens the nutty flavor of the toasted walnuts. We held back ¼ cup of walnuts from the sauce, chopping them and sprinkling on top of the finished pasta (along with some parsley) for crunchy contrast.

1 pound fettuccine

1 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

2¼ cups (9 ounces) walnuts, toasted

¼ cup plant-based creamer or dairy heavy cream

¼ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 garlic clove, minced

⅛ teaspoon nutmeg

½ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

2. Chop ¼ cup walnuts; set aside. Process remaining 2 cups walnuts, plant-based creamer, vegan Parmesan substitute, lemon juice, garlic, nutmeg, pepper, and salt in food processor to coarse paste, about 30 seconds.

3. Add walnut sauce and reserved cooking water to pasta and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with parsley and reserved chopped walnuts. Serve.

Cashew e Pepe e Funghi

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works We had hoped to develop a vegan version of either pasta carbonara or pasta cacio e pepe, but as it turned out, tasters loved this oh-so-creamy dish that includes the best hallmarks of both of these Italian favorites. Having done lots of work with cashews in the test kitchen, we knew that this nut would be able to provide a richly thick and creamy (but not heavy) sauce base because of its uniquely low fiber and high starch content. We discovered that by breaking the cashews up in a blender (to increase their surface area), we could soak them for just 15 minutes in the flavorful sauce ingredients. We usually use raw cashews for their more neutral flavor, but since we only used ½ cup here, we tried roasting them; this added nuanced warmth without imparting a nutty taste. Miso and nutritional yeast each contributed different aspects of umami to the sauce. Plenty of coarsely ground pepper added subtle warmth. And oyster mushrooms were a revelation. Because they contain very little moisture (relative to other mushrooms), they quickly cooked into chewy, golden, almost bacon-y nuggets. Some parsley and a splash of lemon juice provided freshness and acidity. You can substitute portobello mushrooms for the oyster mushrooms, but the mushroom “bacon” won’t be nearly as crisp.

½ cup roasted cashews

¼ cup nutritional yeast

2 tablespoons white miso

½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 ounces oyster mushrooms, trimmed and chopped

5 garlic cloves, sliced thin

1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

1 pound spaghetti

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1. Process cashews in blender on low speed to consistency of fine gravel mixed with sand, 10 to 15 seconds. Add 1½ cups water, nutritional yeast, miso, and salt and process on low speed until combined, about 5 seconds. Scrape down sides of blender jar and let mixture sit for 15 minutes.

2. Process on low speed until all ingredients are well blended, about 1 minute. Scrape down sides of blender jar, then process on high speed until sauce is completely smooth, 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook until deep golden brown and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in garlic and pepper and cook using residual heat of skillet until fragrant, about 1 minute.

4. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

5. Add sauce, mushroom mixture, parsley, and lemon juice to pasta and toss until sauce is thickened slightly and pasta is well coated, about 1 minute. Before serving, adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Creamy Cashew Mac and Cheese

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Homestyle stovetop mac and cheese is a comfort-food favorite for all ages, and we were determined to craft an irresistible version that didn’t require cheese. Many recipes we consulted called for pureeing ingredients ranging from squash or potatoes to sunflower seeds and even cannellini beans for the sauce, but those approaches didn’t get us to our goal. Our winning formula turned out to be a mixture of cashews, cauliflower, and plant-based milk, simmered together and then blended until smooth. The rich fat from the cashews and the light, silken texture of the cauliflower (plus the low fiber content of both ingredients) made for a decadent-tasting, pasta-coating sauce. Funky nutritional yeast, when combined with mustard powder for bite, tomato paste for sweetness, and vinegar for tang, gave the dish a remarkable cheesy flavor, while turmeric provided the expected color. The sauce will be loose as you add the macaroni, but it will thicken as it finishes cooking and is served.

⅓ cup refined coconut oil

¼ cup nutritional yeast

4 teaspoons dry mustard

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4½ cups plant-based milk or dairy milk

10 ounces cauliflower florets, cut into ½-inch pieces (3 cups)

1¼ cups raw cashews, chopped

1 pound elbow macaroni

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until melted and shimmering. Stir in nutritional yeast, mustard, tomato paste, garlic, salt, and turmeric and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in milk, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Stir in cauliflower florets and cashews, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered, until cauliflower is very soft and falls apart easily when poked with fork, about 20 minutes.

2. Working in 2 batches, process cauliflower mixture in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add macaroni and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until nearly al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain macaroni.

4. Transfer pureed cauliflower mixture to now-empty pot and bring to gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Add drained macaroni and vinegar and cook, stirring constantly, until warmed through and sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

Fettuccine Alfredo

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Classic fettuccine Alfredo is, of course, loaded with cream, Parmesan cheese, and butter, so beyond the dietary decadence, veganizing this luxurious Roman dish came with definite challenges. To replicate the creaminess of the original version, we started with the silky base of pureed cauliflower and cashews that we used in our Creamy Cashew Mac and Cheese (this page). Here, though, we were looking for a more subtly flavored, silkier sauce, with the slightly sweet notes of traditional Alfredo. So instead of nutritional yeast, we used miso paste, combining it with coconut oil for the richness of a cream sauce and a savory-sweet balance. Just as with traditional fettuccine Alfredo, the texture of this sauce changes dramatically as the dish stands for a few minutes; serving in warmed bowls helps ensure that it retains its creamy texture while it’s being eaten.

2½ cups plant-based milk or dairy milk

⅓ cup refined coconut oil

3 tablespoons white miso

1 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

10 ounces cauliflower florets, cut into ½-inch pieces (3 cups)

¾ cup raw cashews, chopped

1 pound fettuccine

Pinch ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Combine milk, oil, miso, and salt in large saucepan and bring to simmer over medium-high heat, whisking to dissolve miso. Stir in cauliflower florets and cashews, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered, until cauliflower is very soft and falls apart easily when poked with fork, about 20 minutes.

2. Process cauliflower mixture and ½ cup water in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until nearly al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta.

4. Transfer pureed cauliflower mixture to now-empty pot. Whisk in nutmeg and bring to gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Add drained pasta and cook, stirring constantly, until warmed through and sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed, season with salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle with parsley, and serve immediately.

Mushroom Bolognese

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Traditional Bolognese sauce gets its rich flavor from a combination of several types of meat, but we were confident we could create a savory, lush, and decadent Bolognese without it. To mimic the meat sauce’s long-cooked richness, we turned to one of the original plant-based meat substitutes: the mighty mushroom. Two types of mushrooms helped us re-create that complexity. Using 2 pounds of fresh cremini mushrooms gave the sauce a satisfyingly chunky, substantial texture, and minced dried porcini delivered concentrated umami flavor. To further boost the savory umami profile, we added tomato paste and soy sauce. Red wine lent richness and depth, and a little sugar balanced the dish. Bolognese often includes a pour of cream; we found that plant-based creamer—just 3 tablespoons—stirred in at the end worked just as well as dairy cream to round out the sauce and make for a silky finish.

2 pounds cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 small onion, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup dry red wine

½ cup vegetable broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼ teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons plant-based creamer or dairy heavy cream

1 pound fettuccine

1. Working in batches, pulse cremini mushrooms in food processor until pieces are no larger than ½ inch, 5 to 7 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to large bowl. Pulse carrot and onion in now-empty processor until finely chopped, 5 to 7 pulses; transfer to bowl with processed mushrooms. Pulse tomatoes and their juice in now-empty processor until finely chopped, 6 to 8 pulses; set aside separately.

2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add processed mushroom mixture and porcini mushrooms, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables release their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until vegetables begin to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

3. Stir in garlic and sugar and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine and simmer until nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes.

4. Stir in reserved processed tomatoes, broth, soy sauce, salt, and pepper and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until sauce has thickened but is still moist, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in creamer.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Before serving, adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Spaghetti and Meatless Meatballs

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works This recipe is proof positive that a good plant-based meatball is not an oxymoron. To develop a vegan meatball that had the savory flavor and heft of a classic meat-based version, we turned to vegan protein crumbles—one of the original meat substitutes—which provided great structure and chew. Also known as TVP (texturized vegetable protein), vegan protein crumbles are a neutral-flavor soy protein product that is sold dehydrated in bags. A full pound of meaty cremini mushrooms, pulsed fine in a food processor and deeply browned in a skillet, boosted the savory flavor and meaty texture of our meatball mixture. Since both of these ingredients were crumbly, we needed a strong binder. Stirring panko bread crumbs and aquafaba (the liquid from canned chickpeas) into the mix helped. We also found that 4 ounces of chopped eggplant, sautéed with the mushrooms, was a lovely silky additional binder without too strong a flavor. To make the porcini powder, grind the dried porcini mushrooms in a spice grinder until they are reduced to fine dust.

Sauce

2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped fine

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

¼ cup dry red wine

½ cup chopped fresh basil, divided

½ teaspoon sugar

Meatless Meatballs

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

4 ounces eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces (1¾ cups)

1 onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

⅛ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, finely ground (1 tablespoon)

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

12 ounces vegan protein crumbles, broken into small pieces

1 cup panko bread crumbs

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

3 tablespoons aquafaba (this page)

1 pound spaghetti

Table salt for cooking pasta

1. For the sauce Process tomatoes in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds. Heat oil in large pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, salt, and pepper and cook until onion is softened and just beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Stir in garlic and tomato paste and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until evaporated, about 1 minute. Stir in processed tomatoes and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently until sauce is slightly thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Off heat, stir in ¼ cup basil and sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste; cover to keep warm. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

3. For the meatballs Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and spray with vegetable oil spray. Pulse cremini mushrooms in clean, dry food processor until pieces are no larger than ¼ inch, 5 to 7 pulses; transfer to bowl. Pulse eggplant, onion, and garlic in now-empty processor until chopped fine, 6 to 8 pulses; transfer to bowl with mushrooms.

4. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add processed vegetables, ground porcini mushrooms, salt, and pepper, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to medium-high, and cook until vegetables are well browned, about 15 minutes; transfer to large bowl.

5. Add protein crumbles, panko, parsley, and aquafaba to bowl with browned vegetables and toss to combine. Using your hands, knead mixture well until cohesive and sticky, about 1 minute.

6. Shape vegetable mixture into 24 meatballs (about 2 tablespoons each) and space evenly on prepared sheet. Bake until browned and firm, 25 to 30 minutes, gently turning meatballs and rotating sheet halfway through baking.

7. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Measure out 4 cups sauce and toss with pasta to combine. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed and season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions of spaghetti with meatballs and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup basil. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.

Hearty Vegetable Lasagna

Serves 8 to 10

Why This Recipe Works This stick-to-your-ribs plant-forward rendition of lasagna is so hearty and loaded with a variety of vegetables that we promise everyone will leave the table feeling satisfied. For a cheesy but not heavy filling element to stand in for ricotta cheese, we wanted something a bit lighter and fluffier than our regular Vegan Ricotta. After testing our way (unsuccessfully) through plant-based béchamel sauces, tofu-based fillings, and vegan soft cheeses, we found success in a winning combination of cooked cashews and cauliflower. Since both are relatively low in fiber and cashews are high in starch, they combined perfectly in a food processor with water and olive oil to mimic the texture of a soft ricotta-like cheese. We liked it so much that we even dolloped some on top after baking. Be sure to let the lasagna cool for the full 25 minutes to set up before cutting it.

Tomato Sauce

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Filling

8 ounces cauliflower florets, cut into ½-inch pieces (2¼ cups)

1½ cups raw cashews, chopped

2 teaspoons table salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Vegetables

1 pound eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 pound white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 garlic clove, minced

¾ teaspoon table salt, divided

1 pound zucchini, cut into ½-inch pieces

Lasagna

12 no-boil lasagna noodles

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1. For the tomato sauce Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, about 30 seconds. Transfer sauce to bowl and set aside. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

2. For the filling Bring 3 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add cauliflower florets, cashews, and salt and cook until cauliflower is very soft and falls apart easily when poked with fork, about 20 minutes. Drain cauliflower mixture and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.

3. Process cauliflower mixture, 3 tablespoons oil, and ¼ cup water in clean, dry food processor until smooth, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, about 2 minutes (mixture will be slightly grainy). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer ¼ cup mixture to bowl and stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil and basil; set aside for topping. (Mixtures can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

4. For the vegetables Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss eggplant and mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, then spread in even layer on rimmed baking sheet. Toss zucchini with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in now-empty bowl. Roast eggplant- mushroom mixture until beginning to wilt, about 15 minutes. Remove sheet from oven, stir zucchini into vegetables, and continue to roast, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are lightly browned, eggplant and zucchini are tender, and most of juices have evaporated, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside. (Cooked vegetables can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

5. For the lasagna Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Spread 1⅓ cups tomato sauce over bottom of dish. Arrange 4 noodles on top. Spread half of cauliflower filling over noodles, followed by half of vegetables. Spread 1⅓ cups tomato sauce over vegetables. Repeat layering with 4 noodles, remaining cauliflower filling, and remaining vegetables. Arrange remaining 4 noodles on top, and cover completely with remaining tomato sauce.

6. Cover dish with aluminum foil and bake until edges are bubbling, 45 to 50 minutes, rotating dish halfway through baking. Dollop lasagna evenly with 8 to 10 spoonfuls of reserved cauliflower topping, and let cool for 25 minutes. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with basil, and serve.

Big-Batch Meatless Meat Sauce with Chickpeas and Mushrooms

Makes 6 cups; enough for 2 pounds pasta

Having a big batch of red sauce portioned out in the freezer can be a lifesaver on busy nights. For a crowd-pleasing vegan version of a classic tomato-meat sauce, we started with cremini mushrooms and tomato paste—both rich sources of savory umami. Extra-virgin olive oil did double duty, both enriching the sauce and helping to toast the aromatics: garlic, dried oregano, and red pepper flakes. We bulked up the sauce with chopped chickpeas. To thin the sauce without diluting its flavor, we added vegetable broth. Make sure to rinse the chickpeas after pulsing them in the food processor or the sauce will be too thick.

10 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed

1 onion, chopped

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ cup tomato paste

5 garlic cloves, minced

1¼ teaspoons dried oregano

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

2 cups vegetable broth

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Working in batches, pulse mushrooms in food processor until pieces are no larger than ⅛ to ¼ inch, 7 to 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to bowl. Pulse onion in now-empty food processor until finely chopped, 7 to 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; set aside separately. Pulse chickpeas in again-empty food processor until chopped into ¼-inch pieces, 7 to 10 pulses. Transfer chickpeas to fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear; drain well.

2. Heat 5 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium- high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned and fond has formed on bottom of pot, about 8 minutes.

3. Stir in onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is rust-colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and push vegetables to sides of pot. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes to center and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and broth; bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer sauce for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Stir drained chickpeas into sauce in pot and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month.)

Baked Ziti with Creamy Leeks, Kale, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works This fresh take on baked ziti is substantial and gratifyingly vegetable-forward. Taking a cue from our Spaghetti with Spring Vegetables (this page), we wondered if we could create a creamy, aromatic sauce for baked pasta with a vegetable foundation, and it turned out that the often underestimated leek emerged as the winner. We sautéed 2 pounds of sliced leeks until they began to caramelize, added some thyme, deglazed with a splash of dry white wine, and then simmered the mixture in vegetable broth until the leeks were meltingly soft and ready to be blended into a smooth, velvety sauce. Meanwhile, in the pot we used to parcook our pasta, we sautéed baby kale and sun-dried tomatoes with a generous dose of garlic plus red pepper flakes, mixed in our sauce and cooked pasta, and then baked it all tightly covered in a baking dish so the pasta could finish cooking while absorbing some of the flavorful leek sauce. For a savory, crispy topping, we combined panko bread crumbs with our Vegan Parmesan Substitute (or dairy Parmesan), plus a bit of fragrant lemon zest, and broiled it all to crispy, golden baked-pasta perfection. If you can’t find baby kale, substitute 8 ounces kale, stemmed and chopped.

½ cup panko bread crumbs

¼ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

2 pounds leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly

¾ teaspoon table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking pasta

⅛ teaspoon pepper

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or ¾ teaspoon dried

½ cup dry white wine

2 cups vegetable broth

1 pound ziti

6 garlic cloves, minced

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

6 cups (6 ounces) baby kale

¼ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped coarse

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine panko, vegan Parmesan substitute, 1 tablespoon oil, and lemon zest in bowl; set aside.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in leeks, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 12 minutes. Stir in thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in broth and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until leeks are very tender, about 8 minutes. Process leek mixture in blender on high speed until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until nearly al dente. Reserve 1½ cups cooking water, then drain pasta. Cook remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in now-empty pot over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in kale, sun-dried tomatoes, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until kale is wilted and tomatoes are softened, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in cooked pasta, leek mixture, and 1 cup reserved cooking water; season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with remaining ½ cup cooking water as needed (sauce should be thick but still creamy).

4. Transfer pasta mixture to broiler-safe 13 by 9-inch baking dish, smoothing top with rubber spatula. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake until sauce is bubbling, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove baking dish from oven and heat broiler. Remove aluminum foil and sprinkle panko mixture evenly over pasta. Broil until panko mixture is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

Pasta Salad with Asparagus and Red Peppers

Serves 6 to 8

Why This Recipe Works A great homemade pasta salad is cohesive and thought-out rather than just thrown together with odds and ends from the refrigerator. Store-bought versions often seem either to involve a heavy creamy dressing that masks the colors and flavors of the other ingredients or to be laden with a thick, acidic vinaigrette and sometimes, oddly, chunks of salami. We wanted something lighter, more refreshing, and vegan-optional, so we elevated our pasta salad with roasted asparagus and red bell peppers and a garlic-infused dressing made with bright lemon juice (rather than vinegar, which made it too acidic and leached color from our vegetables). Better than any sad assembly from the deli case, this pasta salad looks just as good as it tastes.

1½ pounds asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

3 large red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons plus ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼ teaspoon pepper

1 pound fusilli

1 garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 lemons)

⅓ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss asparagus and bell peppers with 2 tablespoons oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper in bowl. Transfer vegetables to baking sheet and roast until tender and lightly browned, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool completely.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta.

3. Whisk garlic, lemon zest and juice, remaining ½ cup oil, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add vegan Parmesan substitute, chives, roasted vegetables, and pasta and toss to combine; let salad cool completely. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

Orzo Salad with Arugula and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Serves 4

Why This Recipe Works Orzo serves as a perfect vehicle for warm or chilled pasta salads. Its small rice-like shape provides just enough bulk to make a satisfying salad that can act as a partner for any number of other dishes, from Chickpea Cakes (this page) to Roasted Artichokes with Lemon and Basil (this page). We decided that our orzo salad would burst with flavors that made us feel like we were visiting the sunny Mediterranean. After cooking and draining the pasta, we transferred the still-warm orzo to a rimmed baking sheet to cool and tossed it with some olive oil to prevent clumping. We then dressed the orzo with a simple vinaigrette made with balsamic vinegar and a bit of garlic; the subtle dressing added tangy flavor but still allowed the rest of the ingredients to shine through. We chose plenty of bold mix-in ingredients: our Vegan Parmesan Substitute (or dairy Parmesan), peppery fresh arugula, sweet sun-dried tomatoes, briny olives, aromatic basil, and toasted pine nuts for a slight nutty crunch.

1¼ cups orzo

½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for serving

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon pepper

2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula, chopped

½ cup Vegan Parmesan Substitute (this page) or grated dairy Parmesan cheese

½ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, minced

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved

½ cup chopped fresh basil

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted

1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add orzo and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain orzo and transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Toss with 1 tablespoon oil and let cool completely, about 15 minutes.

2. Whisk vinegar, garlic, pepper, salt, and remaining 3 tablespoons oil together in large bowl. Add arugula, vegan Parmesan substitute, tomatoes, olives, basil, pine nuts, and cooled orzo and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Let salad sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Serve, drizzling with extra oil.

Toasted Orzo Pilaf with Fennel, Orange, and Olives

Serves 6 to 8

Why This Recipe Works This unusual pilaf is super-flavorful thanks to the fact that we toasted the orzo until golden brown before adding liquid. We turned to creative Greek-inspired flavors for this sophisticated dish, first sautéing fennel and onion in olive oil and then adding aromatics including garlic, orange zest, and fennel seeds. We browned the orzo in the skillet before adding the cooking liquid; a combination of vegetable broth, white wine, and water provided the most balanced flavor. Kalamata olives gave our pilaf an umami quality while adding contrasting texture and briny flavor. Finally, we stirred in some chopped toasted walnuts; their nutty richness enhanced the toasted qualities of the orzo. A pinch of nutmeg finished our pilaf with a complementary yet subtle warmth.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and chopped fine

1 onion, chopped fine

¾ teaspoon table salt

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

¾ teaspoon fennel seeds

Pinch red pepper flakes

2⅔ cups orzo

2 cups vegetable broth

1½ cups water

¾ cup dry white wine

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped

½ cup toasted walnuts, chopped

Pinch ground nutmeg

1. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add fennel, onion, and salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, orange zest, fennel seeds, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add orzo and cook, stirring frequently, until orzo is lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in broth, water, and wine and bring to boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has been absorbed and orzo is al dente, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in olives, walnuts, and nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Spiced Vegetable Couscous

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works This easy vegetable couscous dish was inspired by culinary traditions of North Africa, where couscous is frequently used in all manner of dishes. We chose a colorful combination of cauliflower, zucchini, and red bell pepper. To encourage deep caramelization on the cauliflower, we cut it into small, even pieces and started it in a cold pan, ensuring that it cooked through before developing a golden exterior. We then quickly sautéed zucchini and bell pepper with garlic, lemon zest, and ras el hanout—a flavorful North African spice blend. Marjoram, added at the end, gave a hit of freshness. We prefer our homemade Ras el Hanout; you can use store-bought, but flavor and spice level vary by brand.

1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into 1-inch florets

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for serving

1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided

½ teaspoon pepper

1½ cups couscous

1 zucchini, cut into ½-inch pieces

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons Ras el Hanout

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

1¾ cups vegetable broth

1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram

1. Toss cauliflower florets with 2 tablespoons oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Continue to cook, uncovered, stirring every 2 minutes, until florets turn golden brown in several spots, about 10 minutes. Transfer to bowl and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium- high heat until shimmering. Add couscous and cook, stirring frequently, until grains begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to separate bowl and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

4. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in again-empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add zucchini, bell pepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, ras el hanout, and lemon zest and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and bring to simmer.

5. Remove skillet from heat and stir in couscous. Cover and let sit until liquid is absorbed and couscous is tender, about 7 minutes. Add cauliflower and marjoram and fluff with fork to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with extra oil. Serve with lemon wedges.

Ras el Hanout

Makes about ½ cup

A mix of warm spices delivers big flavor. If you can’t find Aleppo pepper, substitute ½ teaspoon paprika plus ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes.

16 cardamom pods

4 teaspoons coriander seeds

4 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons anise seeds

2 teaspoons ground dried Aleppo pepper

½ teaspoon allspice berries

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

4 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground nutmeg

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Process cardamom pods, coriander, cumin, anise, Aleppo pepper, allspice, and peppercorns in spice grinder until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Stir in ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon.

Moroccan-Style Couscous with Chickpeas

Serves 6

Why This Recipe Works Couscous with chickpeas and vegetables is a popular Moroccan dish, and we tried a few different approaches for our variation before settling on a game plan: Toast the couscous for nuttiness, sauté the vegetables, toast the spices, add chickpeas, simmer, and finally add the couscous, which we needed only to hydrate with boiling water. We tasted our way through many vegetables and ultimately limited our selection to carrots, onions, and peas, each of which brought a distinctive flavor, texture, and color. Classic Moroccan spices (coriander, ground ginger, and ground anise) supported the vegetables’ flavor. Three cloves of garlic jazzed up the vegetable broth, and a hefty amount of parsley stirred in at the end rounded out all the flavors.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for serving

1½ cups couscous

2 carrots, peeled and chopped fine

1 onion, chopped fine

1 teaspoon table salt

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground anise seed

1¾ cups vegetable broth

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed

1½ cups frozen peas

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

Lemon wedges

1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add couscous and cook, stirring frequently, until grains begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add carrots, onion, and salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, coriander, ginger, and anise and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and chickpeas and bring to simmer.

3. Remove skillet from heat and stir in peas and couscous. Cover and let sit until liquid is absorbed and couscous is tender, about 7 minutes. Add parsley and fluff with fork to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with extra oil. Serve with lemon wedges.

Hearty Pearl Couscous with Eggplant, Spinach, and White Beans

Serves 6

Why This Recipe Works Pearl couscous serves as the base for this hearty meal with great visual appeal. Also known as Israeli couscous, pearl couscous has larger grains than regular couscous—about the size of a caper. A superflavorful spice blend made with citrusy sumac, nutty-sweet fenugreek, and floral cardamom further gave the dish an Israeli-inspired identity. We tossed eggplant with a teaspoon of the blend before microwaving, which bloomed the spices’ flavors and quickly cooked off the eggplant’s excess moisture, bypassing the need to salt and drain the eggplant. We then seared the eggplant to develop savory browning before building an aromatic broth base in which to cook our couscous. Adding convenient canned beans and baby spinach made it a meal. Do not substitute regular couscous in this dish, as it requires a different cooking method and will not work in this recipe.

1 teaspoon ground sumac

1 teaspoon ground fenugreek

½ teaspoon table salt

½ teaspoon pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 pound eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces

1½ cups pearl couscous

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for serving

1 onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 cups vegetable broth

1 (15-ounce) can great Northern beans, rinsed

3 ounces (3 cups) baby spinach

1. Combine sumac, fenugreek, salt, pepper, and cardamom in small bowl. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters and spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant with ½ teaspoon spice mixture and spread evenly on coffee filters. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, 7 to 10 minutes, tossing halfway through microwaving.

2. Heat couscous and 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until about half of grains are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.

3. Toss eggplant with 1 teaspoon spice mixture. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to separate bowl.

4. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in again-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, tomato paste, and remaining spice mixture and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

5. Stir in broth, beans, and couscous and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth is absorbed and couscous is tender, 9 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in spinach and eggplant, cover, and let sit until warmed through and spinach is wilted, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with extra oil. Serve.

Spicy Peanut Rice Noodle Bowl

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works This sweet, savory, and spicy noodle bowl is a real stunner, boasting a colorful medley of texturally interesting toppings. We combined tender rice noodles with savory edamame, tangy lightly pickled carrots, and crunchy cabbage, and we draped it all with a rich peanut sauce that’s a little zingy, a little sweet, and enlivened with a hint of curry powder for aromatic appeal. Instead of taking the time to pickle our carrots in advance of making the dish, we simply added seasoned rice vinegar to shredded carrots and let them sit while the rice noodles softened in hot water. After the soaking period, we started the cooking process by first quickly sautéing the edamame just until it was speckled brown but still maintained a tender-crisp texture and fresh flavor. After removing the beans from the skillet, we finished cooking the noodles in the same pan with half of our sauce and some water until the noodles were perfectly tender. Cooking the noodles in the sauce lightly glazed and flavored them. After topping our noodle bowls with the veggies, we added plenty of garnishes—fragrant Thai basil, chopped peanuts, lime wedges, and a light pour of additional sauce were the perfect finish. To make this sauce spicier, add the seeds from the chiles. You can use serrano or jalapeño chiles in place of Thai chiles. If you can’t find Thai basil you can substitute regular basil. We prefer the flavor of seasoned rice vinegar to pickle the carrots in this recipe.

1 cup shredded carrots

5 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar, divided

12 ounces (¼-inch wide) rice noodles

¼ cup vegetable oil, divided

2 Thai chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1½ teaspoons curry powder

⅓ cup creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup frozen edamame

1 cup shredded red cabbage

⅓ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

2 tablespoons torn fresh Thai basil

Lime wedges

1. Combine carrots and 2 tablespoons vinegar in small bowl; set aside. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add noodles, and let sit, stirring occasionally, until soft and pliable but not fully tender. Drain noodles.

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in Thai chiles, garlic, ginger, and curry powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in ½ cup water, peanut butter, soy sauce, sugar, and remaining 3 tablespoons vinegar and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Adjust consistency as needed with additional water. Transfer sauce to bowl.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add edamame and cook until spotty brown but still bright green, about 2 minutes; transfer to bowl. In now-empty skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add drained noodles, 1¼ cups water, and ½ cup peanut sauce and cook until sauce has thickened slightly and noodles are well coated and tender, about 1 minute.

4. Divide noodles among individual serving bowls, then top with carrots, edamame, and cabbage. Drizzle with remaining peanut sauce, sprinkle with peanuts and basil, and serve with lime wedges.

Tofu Pad Thai

Serves 4

Why This Recipe Works With its sweet-sour-salty-spicy sauce, tender rice noodles, bean sprout topping, and bits of scrambled egg or shrimp, pad thai is Thailand’s most well-known noodle dish. We wanted an equally craveable vegan version that featured crispy tofu as its protein. But no matter the protein, getting the noodles right is paramount to pad thai: We soaked rice noodles in hot water to soften them before stir-frying for tender but not sticky noodles. To create the punchy but balanced flavor profile, we combined our Fish Sauce Substitute, sugar, cayenne, and vinegar, adding tamarind paste for the bright, fruity, pleasantly sour taste essential to this dish. For the crispy tofu, we cut extra-firm tofu into bite-size pieces, dredged them in cornstarch, and quickly pan-fried them until golden. Chopped peanuts, bean sprouts, thinly sliced scallions, and lime wedges completed our authentic-tasting pad thai. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. This dish comes together very quickly, so make sure to prep all your ingredients before you start cooking.

Sauce

3 tablespoons tamarind paste

¾ cup boiling water

¼ cup Fish Sauce Substitute (this page)

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Noodles, Tofu, and Garnish

8 ounces (¼-inch-wide) rice noodles

14 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch pieces

⅓ cup cornstarch

¼ cup vegetable oil, divided

1 shallot, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

6 ounces (3 cups) bean sprouts

4 scallions, sliced thin on bias

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons chopped dry-roasted peanuts

Lime wedges

1. For the sauce Soak tamarind paste in boiling water until softened, about 10 minutes. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer, pressing on solids to extract as much pulp as possible; discard solids. Whisk fish sauce substitute, sugar, vinegar, oil, and cayenne into tamarind liquid in bowl.

2. For the noodles, tofu, and garnish Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add noodles, and let sit, stirring occasionally, until soft and pliable but not fully tender. Drain noodles. Meanwhile, spread tofu on paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes. Gently pat dry with paper towels.

3. Toss drained tofu with cornstarch in bowl. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook, turning as needed, until crisp and browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate to drain.

4. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

5. Whisk sauce to recombine. Add noodles and sauce to skillet, increase heat to high, and cook, tossing gently, until noodles are evenly coated, about 1 minute. Add browned tofu, bean sprouts, and scallions and cook, tossing gently, until tofu is warmed through and noodles are tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt to taste, sprinkle with cilantro and peanuts, and serve with lime wedges.

FLAVOR BOOSTER

TAMARIND PASTE

Sweet-tart, dark brownish-red tamarind is frequently used in Thai cuisine and is a necessary ingredient for an authentic-looking and -tasting pad thai. It’s commonly sold in paste (also called pulp) as well as in concentrate form. The paste is firm, sticky, and filled with seeds and fibers, which is why we strain it. We favor tamarind paste because it has a fresher, brighter flavor than the concentrate.

Spicy Basil Rice Noodles with Crispy Tofu, Snap Peas, and Bell Peppers

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works These brightly flavored Thai noodles are fragrant with fresh basil and infused with heat thanks to a paste of chiles, garlic, and shallots. Cooking the mixture briefly deepened and mellowed the flavor of the aromatics. Fish Sauce Substitute, brown sugar, lime juice, and broth added sweet and savory flavors. A whopping 2 cups of basil gives this dish its trademark freshness; we stirred it in at the end to keep its flavor prominent. Pan-fried tofu, coated with a light layer of cornstarch, offered contrasting creamy and crispy textures, and snap peas and red bell pepper strips added crunch. To make this dish spicier, add the chile seeds. If you can’t find ⅜-inch-wide rice noodles, substitute ¼-inch-wide rice noodles. If you can’t find Thai chiles, substitute serranos or jalapeños. If you can’t find Thai basil, you can use Italian basil.

12 ounces (⅜-inch-wide) rice noodles

14 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into 1-inch pieces

8 Thai chiles, stemmed and seeded

6 garlic cloves, peeled

4 shallots, peeled

2 cups vegetable broth

¼ cup Fish Sauce Substitute (this page)

¼ cup packed brown sugar

3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes)

¼ teaspoon table salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

½ cup cornstarch

7 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

6 ounces sugar snap peas, strings removed

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips, and halved crosswise

2 cups fresh Thai basil leaves

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add noodles, and let sit, stirring occasionally, until soft and pliable but not fully tender. Drain noodles. While noodles soak, spread tofu on paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes. Gently pat dry with paper towels.

2. Meanwhile, pulse chiles, garlic, and shallots in food processor into smooth paste, about 20 pulses, scraping down bowl as needed. Whisk broth, fish sauce substitute, sugar, and lime juice together in bowl.

3. Sprinkle tofu with salt and pepper, then toss with cornstarch in bowl. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook, turning as needed, until crisp and browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate to drain.

4. Wipe out now-empty skillet with paper towels, add 1 tablespoon oil, and heat over high heat until just smoking. Add snap peas and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are crisp-tender and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer to bowl.

5. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil to now-empty skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add processed chile mixture and cook until moisture evaporates and color deepens, 3 to 5 minutes. Add drained noodles and broth mixture and cook, tossing gently, until sauce has thickened and noodles are well coated and tender, 5 to 10 minutes.

6. Stir in cooked vegetables and basil and cook until basil wilts slightly, about 1 minute. Top individual portions with crispy tofu and serve.

SOAKING RICE NOODLES

Undersoaked These noodles are undersoaked and are still too hard. They will take too long to stir-fry.

Oversoaked These noodles are oversoaked and are too soft and gummy. They will overcook when stir-fried and stay tangled.

Properly soaked These noodles are perfectly soaked and just softened. They will turn tender when stir-fried and remain separated.

Thai Curry Rice Noodles with Crispy Tofu and Broccoli

Serves 4

Why This Recipe Works Morsels of crispy tofu, tender vegetables (broccoli, red bell pepper, and scallions), and hearty rice noodles mingle with a coconut-curry sauce in a dish that tastes so complex you won’t believe it’s a cinch to prepare. The tofu, vegetables, and noodles and sauce are cooked in stages and then combined in the same skillet. While the noodles hydrated in a bowl of hot water, we crisped our tofu cubes after dusting them with a light coating of cornstarch. Then we wiped out the skillet, sautéed our vegetables, stirred in deeply aromatic curry paste, and built the sauce with coconut milk, some water, and just a teaspoon of brown sugar for a hint of sweetness. We added the softened noodles to the skillet with the vegetables and sauce and simmered everything together until the noodles were cooked through and the sauce was thickened. To finish, we topped the noodles with the crispy tofu, followed by a generous helping of fresh Thai basil. Fresh lime wedges offered a welcome splash of brightness. If you can’t find Thai basil, you can substitute Italian basil.

8 ounces (¼-inch-wide) rice noodles

14 ounces firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch pieces

¾ teaspoon table salt, divided

⅛ teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

6 ounces broccoli, florets cut into 1-inch pieces, stalks peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

4 scallions, white parts cut into 1-inch lengths, green parts sliced thin

¼ cup Thai red curry paste

½ cup canned coconut milk

½ cup water

1 teaspoon packed brown sugar

¼ cup chopped fresh Thai basil

Lime wedges

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add noodles, and let sit, stirring occasionally, until soft and pliable but not fully tender. Drain noodles and rinse with cold water until water runs clear. Drain noodles again and set aside. While noodles soak, spread tofu over paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes. Gently pat tofu dry with paper towels.

2. Sprinkle tofu with ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper, then toss with cornstarch in bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook, turning as needed, until crisp and browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate to drain.

3. Wipe out now-empty skillet with paper towels, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add broccoli florets and stalks, bell pepper, scallion whites, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Push vegetables to sides of skillet. Add curry paste to center and cook, mashing paste into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir curry paste into vegetables, then stir in coconut milk, water, and sugar, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to simmer.

4. Add drained rice noodles, tossing to combine, and cook, tossing gently, until sauce has thickened slightly and noodles are well coated and tender, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and top with crispy tofu, scallion greens, and basil. Serve with lime wedges.

Sweet Potato Noodles with Shiitakes and Spinach

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works One of Korea’s most beloved celebratory dishes is made using sweet potato starch noodles and vegetables for a result that is both stunning and delicious. The flavorful, balanced sauce made from sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, sesame seeds, and garlic makes it clear why throughout much of history, Korean royalty kept this dish to themselves. Going with a variety of vegetables, we needed to stagger their cooking times to ensure that they were properly cooked. After cooking the noodles, we stir-fried earthy shiitake mushrooms and an onion. We then added carrots and scallions, which needed less time to cook. Last, the addition of stir-fried spinach helped bulk up the vegetable ratio in our simple but luxurious noodle dish. This dish often includes a thin egg omelet, and we have included a variation if you would like to try it. If you can’t find sweet potato noodles (sometimes sold as sweet potato starch noodles or sweet potato glass noodles), substitute cellophane noodles. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant (about 1 minute), and then quickly remove the seeds from the pan to prevent the seeds from scorching. You will need a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.

8 ounces (⅛-inch-wide) dried sweet potato noodles, broken into 12-inch lengths

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, divided

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided

¼ cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long matchsticks

1 small onion, halved and sliced ½ inch thick

2 scallions, sliced thin

8 ounces (8 cups) baby spinach

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add noodles, and let sit, stirring occasionally, until noodles are soft and pliable but not fully tender. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until chilled. Drain noodles again and toss with 2 teaspoons sesame oil; set aside.

2. Combine two-thirds garlic and 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in small bowl; set aside. Whisk soy sauce, sugar, sesame seeds, remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil, and remaining garlic in second small bowl until sugar has dissolved; set aside.

3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms, carrots, and onion and cook, stirring constantly, until onion and carrots are crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add scallions and spinach and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes.

4. Push vegetables to 1 side of skillet. Add garlic mixture to clearing and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into vegetables. Add noodles and sauce and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is thoroughly combined and noodles are well coated and tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Serve.

VARIATION

Sweet Potato Noodles with Shiitakes, Spinach, and Eggs

Lightly beat 2 large eggs in bowl. After step 2, heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Using paper towel, wipe out skillet, leaving thin film of oil on bottom and sides. Add beaten egg and gently tilt and shake skillet until mixture forms even 10-inch round omelet. Cover and cook until bottom of omelet is spotty brown and top is just set, about 30 seconds. Loosen edges of omelet with rubber spatula and slide onto cutting board. Cut omelet into 2-inch-wide strips. Slice each strip crosswise ¼ inch thick. Sprinkle omelet strips over finished dish before serving.

PLANT POWER

CELLOPHANE NOODLES

Korean sweet potato noodles belong to the cellophane noodle family, also called glass noodles because of their translucence. These types of noodles, which can vary in thickness and be round or flat, are made from the extracted starch of sweet or white potatoes, yams, beans (such as mung beans), tapioca (from the cassava plant), or even the flowering canna lily. Cellophane noodles have a softer yet chewier texture (sometimes described as “bouncy”) as compared to wheat noodles.

Vegetable Lo Mein

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Most takeout lo mein ends up being a disappointment, with mushy noodles, a greasy sauce, and barely any vegetables. We were after a crowd-pleasing, fresh-tasting lo mein with properly chewy noodles in a salty-sweet sauce with loads of veggies—and we wanted it in less time than it would take for takeout to arrive. A combination of classic Chinese ingredients made for a simple, balanced sweet-and-savory sauce. A full pound of meaty shiitake mushrooms paired with napa cabbage and sweet red bell peppers provided the vegetable substance we were looking for; we stir-fried the vegetables in batches so that each would get cooked to perfection. A hit of Asian chili-garlic sauce at the end brightened this dish and gave it a nice kick of heat. Fresh Chinese noodles may or may not contain egg; check the label if this is a concern. If Chinese noodles are unavailable, you may use spaghetti or linguine.

Sauce

½ cup vegetable broth

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons mushroom oyster sauce

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

Noodles and Vegetables

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved if small or quartered if large

10 scallions, white parts sliced thin and green parts cut into 1-inch pieces

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips

½ small head napa cabbage, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick pieces (4 cups)

¼ cup Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or spaghetti or linguine

1 tablespoon Asian chili-garlic sauce

1. For the sauce Whisk all ingredients together in bowl.

2. For the noodles and vegetables Combine 1 tablespoon oil, ginger, and garlic in bowl. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms and cook, tossing slowly but constantly, until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in scallions and cook until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes; transfer to separate bowl.

3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, bell peppers, and cabbage to now-empty skillet, and cook, stirring constantly, until spotty brown, about 8 minutes. Push vegetables to one side of skillet. Add garlic mixture to clearing and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into vegetables.

4. Stir in wine and cook until liquid is nearly evaporated, 30 to 60 seconds. Stir in mushroom mixture and sauce and simmer until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes; cover and set aside.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain noodles and return them to pot. Add cabbage mixture and chili-garlic sauce and toss to combine. Serve.

Mee Goreng

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works This one-dish Indonesian favorite features spicy pan-fried noodles with vegetables, a special sweet soy sauce, and a garnish of crispy shallots. Meat or shrimp is often included, but for our meatless version, we featured tofu, tossed with cornstarch and quickly pan-fried until crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. To keep the vegetables simple, we chose bok choy as the star—along with the traditional fried shallots, of course. To give the dish plenty of spice, we added a hefty amount of sambal oelek (a sauce made from ground chiles without added flavorings). Typically, this dish is made with a sweet soy sauce, but since this can be difficult to find, we experimented with alternatives and found that a mixture of dark brown sugar, molasses, and regular soy sauce was a perfect substitute. Don’t skip the lime wedges; squeezing them over the finished dish is important for balancing the flavors. Fresh Chinese noodles may or may not contain egg; check the label if this is a concern. If Chinese noodles are unavailable, you may use spaghetti or linguine.

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or spaghetti or linguine

14 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into 1-inch pieces

¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup molasses

¼ cup soy sauce

4 large shallots (2 minced, 2 sliced thin)

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons sambal oelek

¼ teaspoon table salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons cornstarch

5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 pound bok choy, stalks and greens separated and sliced ½ inch thick

4 scallions, sliced thin on bias

Lime wedges

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain noodles. While the noodles cook, spread tofu over paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes.

2. Whisk sugar, molasses, and soy sauce together in bowl. In separate bowl, combine minced shallots, garlic, and sambal oelek.

3. Gently pat tofu dry with paper towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then toss with cornstarch in bowl. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook, turning as needed, until crisp and browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate to drain.

4. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add sliced shallots and cook, stirring constantly, until golden, about 5 minutes; transfer to second paper towel–lined plate.

5. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty skillet and heat until shimmering. Add bok choy stalks and cook, stirring constantly, until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Push vegetables to one side of skillet. Add garlic mixture to clearing and cook, mashing mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into vegetables.

6. Stir in noodles, crisped tofu, bok choy leaves, and scallions. Whisk sauce to recombine, add to skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with shallots and serve with lime wedges.

Sesame Noodles with Sweet Peppers and Cucumbers

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Chilled sesame noodles are quick and easy to make and wonderful to serve on a hot summer night. To avoid the pitfalls of most sesame noodle recipes—gummy noodles and bland, pasty sauce—we rinsed the cooked noodles to rid them of excess starch. This also cooled them down quickly. Tossing the noodles with sesame oil separately, before adding the sauce, also helped keep them from absorbing too much sauce and becoming gummy. Chunky peanut butter processed with toasted sesame seeds worked surprisingly well for the sauce’s base. Garlic, ginger, soy sauce, rice vinegar, hot sauce, and brown sugar rounded out the flavors, and thinning the sauce with hot water created the best texture to coat the noodles without being gloppy. Takeout sesame noodles often have little or no vegetables, but we added red bell pepper, cucumber, scallion, and carrot. We prefer the flavor and texture of chunky peanut butter in the sauce, and we like conventional peanut butter here, as it tends to be sweeter than natural versions. Fresh Chinese noodles may or may not contain egg; check the label if this is a concern. If Chinese noodles are unavailable, you may use spaghetti or linguine.

Sauce

5 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted, divided

¼ cup chunky peanut butter

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon hot sauce

5 tablespoons hot water

Noodles and Vegetables

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or spaghetti or linguine

Table salt for cooking noodles

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 red bell pepper, sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips

1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices

4 scallions, sliced thin on bias

1 carrot, shredded

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1. For the sauce Process soy sauce, 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, peanut butter, vinegar, sugar, ginger, garlic, and hot sauce in blender or food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds. With blender running, add hot water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until sauce has consistency of heavy cream.

2. For the noodles and vegetables Bring 6 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until chilled. Drain noodles again and toss with oil. Add bell pepper, cucumber, scallions, carrot, and sauce and toss to combine. Divide evenly among bowls, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve.

Udon Noodles with Mustard Greens and Shiitake-Ginger Sauce

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Noodles and greens are a common pairing throughout Asia. Here, the spicy bite of mustard greens and the rustic chew of udon noodles make a great partnership that’s delicate yet filling. Udon are fat noodles made of wheat flour that are sold dried or semi-dried. Since they’re starchy and a bit sweet, they stand up well to savory sauces, so we made a highly aromatic and flavorful broth from Asian pantry staples, first browning meaty shiitake mushrooms for flavor and then adding water and mirin along with rice vinegar, soy sauce, cloves of garlic, and a chunk of fresh ginger. Dried shiitake mushrooms, sesame oil, and chili-garlic sauce rounded out the flavors. After this mixture simmered and reduced, we had a sauce that was light and brothy but supersavory—perfect for pairing with our cooked noodles and greens. Because fresh noodles cook so quickly, make sure to add the greens to the pot before the noodles. Do not substitute other types of noodles for the udon noodles here.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin

¼ cup mirin

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled, halved, and smashed

½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms, rinsed and minced

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon Asian chili-garlic sauce

1 pound mustard greens, stemmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

Table salt for cooking noodles and greens

1 pound fresh udon noodles

1. Heat vegetable oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 cups water, mirin, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, dried mushrooms, sesame oil, and chili-garlic sauce and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until liquid has reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, discard garlic and ginger and cover pot to keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add mustard greens and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until greens are nearly tender, about 5 minutes. Add noodles and cook until greens and noodles are tender, about 2 minutes. Reserve ⅓ cup cooking water, drain noodles and greens, and return them to pot. Add sauce and reserved cooking water and toss to combine. Cook over medium-low heat, tossing constantly, until sauce clings to noodles, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

Soba Noodles with Roasted Eggplant and Sesame

Serves 4

Why This Recipe Works Hearty eggplant has a satisfyingly meaty texture that stands up quite well to rich, nutty, pleasantly chewy soba noodles in this recipe. To keep preparation straight-forward and speedy, we decided that eggplant would be the only vegetable we included, so we used a generous amount. Roasting proved an easy, hands-off way to cook the eggplant; tossing it with vegetable oil and soy sauce beforehand helped to amp up its mild flavor and also draw out its moisture, resulting in pieces that were crisped on the outside and creamy on the inside. For the sauce, we started with more soy sauce for savory richness. Vegan oyster sauce, Asian chili-garlic sauce, toasted sesame oil, and some sugar provided a nice balance of spicy and sweet flavors, while a little sake contributed clean, acidic notes that bolstered the complexity of the sauce. A sprinkling of fresh cilantro and sesame seeds brightened up our earthy dish. You may substitute dry vermouth for the sake.

3 pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces

¼ cup vegetable oil

⅓ cup soy sauce, divided

⅓ cup sugar

3 tablespoons vegan oyster sauce

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

5 teaspoons sake or dry vermouth

1½ tablespoons Asian chili-garlic sauce

12 ounces dried soba noodles

¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves

2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted

1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant with vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon soy sauce, then spread evenly on prepared baking sheets. Roast until eggplant is well browned and tender, 25 to 30 minutes, stirring and switching sheets halfway through roasting.

2. Combine sugar, oyster sauce, sesame oil, sake, chili-garlic sauce, and remaining soy sauce in small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking often, until sugar has dissolved, about 1 minute; cover and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until tender. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain noodles and return them to pot. Add sauce and roasted eggplant and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Sprinkle individual portions with cilantro and sesame seeds and serve.

Chilled Soba Noodles with Cucumbers, Snow Peas, and Radishes

Serves 4 to 6

Why This Recipe Works Soba noodles, made from buckwheat flour or a buckwheat-wheat flour blend, have a chewy texture and nutty flavor and are often enjoyed chilled. For a refreshing cold noodle dish, we cooked soba noodles in unsalted boiling water until tender but still resilient and rinsed them under cold running water to remove excess starch and prevent sticking. We then tossed the soba with a miso-based dressing, which clung to and flavored the noodles without overpowering their distinct taste. We also cut a mix of vegetables into varying sizes so they’d incorporate nicely into the noodles while adding crunch and color. Sprinkling strips of toasted nori over the top added umami, a touch of brininess, and crisp textural interest. Plain pretoasted seaweed snacks can be substituted for the toasted nori, and yellow, red, or brown miso can be substituted for the white miso, if desired. This dish isn’t meant to be overtly spicy, but if you prefer more heat, use the full ½ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. These chilled noodles pair nicely with tofu for lunch or a light dinner.

8 ounces dried soba noodles

1 (8-inch square) sheet nori (optional)

3 tablespoons white miso

3 tablespoons mirin

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

¼–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

⅓ English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin on bias

4 ounces snow peas, strings removed, cut lengthwise into matchsticks

4 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin

3 scallions, sliced thin on bias

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until chilled. Drain noodles again.

2. Grip nori sheet, if using, with tongs and hold about 2 inches above low flame on gas burner. Toast nori, flipping every 3 to 5 seconds, until nori is aromatic and shrinks slightly, about 20 seconds. If you do not have a gas stove, toast nori on rimmed baking sheet in 275-degree oven until it is aromatic and shrinks slightly, 20 to 25 minutes, flipping nori halfway through toasting. Using scissors, cut nori into four 2-inch strips. Stack strips and cut crosswise into thin strips.

3. Whisk miso, mirin, oil, 1 tablespoon water, sesame seeds, ginger, and pepper flakes together in large bowl. Add noodles and toss to combine. Add cucumber; snow peas; radishes; scallions; and nori, if using, and toss well to evenly distribute. Season with salt to taste, and serve.

FLAVOR BOOSTER

NORI

All dried sea vegetables are loaded with umami and subtle briny flavors, and nori is a great introduction if you aren’t familiar with them. It’s probably the most well-known sea vegetable in the U.S. because it is what’s used to wrap sushi rolls. Sheets of dried nori can be found in packets at Asian markets or in the Asian section of the supermarket. For a snacking chip made from nori, see this page.