(See “Bayeux” map, here.)
Taverne des Ducs provides big brasserie ambience, efficient and friendly service with English-speaking staff, comfortable seating inside and out, a full range of choices from la carte—including French onion soup, choucroute (sauerkraut), and all the classics—and set menus. Try the cooked oysters with garlic sauce, or the dos de cabillaud au beurre (cod in butter sauce). They serve until 23:00 (menus from €19.50, open daily, 41 Rue St. Patrice, tel. 02 31 92 09 88).
From Bayeux by Train to: Paris’ Gare St. Lazare (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Amboise (3/day, 4.5 hours, change in Caen and Tours’ St-Pierre-des-Corps), Rouen (4/day, 2.5 hours, change in Caen), Caen (20/day, 20 minutes), Honfleur (2-3/day, 20-minute train to Caen, then 1-hour PrestoBus—line #39—express bus to Honfleur; or 4/day 20-minute train to Caen and more scenic 2-hour ride on bus #20 via the coast; for bus information, call 02 31 89 28 41, www.busverts.fr), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2-3/day, 2 hours to Pontorson, then bus to Mont St-Michel; also consider Hôtel Churchill’s faster shuttle van—described later).
By Bus to the D-Day Beaches: Bus Verts du Calvados offers minimal service to D-Day beaches with stops in Bayeux at Place St. Patrice and at the train station (schedules at TI, tel. 08 10 21 42 14, www.busverts.fr). Lines #74/#75 run east to Arromanches and Juno Beach (3-5/day, none on Sun Sept-June; 30 minutes to Arromanches, 50 minutes to Juno Beach), and line #70 runs west to the American Cemetery and Vierville-sur-Mer (3/day in summer, 1-2/day off-season, none on Sun Sept-June, 35 minutes to American Cemetery, 45 minutes to Vierville-sur-Mer). Because of the schedules, you’re usually stuck with either too much or too little time at either sight if you try to take the bus round-trip; consider a taxi one way and a bus the other (for taxi information, see here).
By Shuttle Van to Mont St-Michel: The recommended Hôtel Churchill runs a shuttle van to Mont St-Michel for €65 per person round-trip (1.5 hours each way; available to the general public, though hotel clients get a small discount). The van leaves Bayeux at 8:30 and returns by 15:00, allowing travelers three hours at Mont St-Michel. The trip is a terrific deal as you’ll get a free tour of Normandy along the way from your knowledgeable driver. For details, see www.hotel-churchill.fr.
The 75 miles of Atlantic coast north of Bayeux, stretching from Ste-Marie-du-Mont to Ouistreham, are littered with WWII museums, monuments, cemeteries, and battle remains left in tribute to the courage of the British, Canadian, and American armies that successfully carried out the largest military operation in history: D-Day. (It’s called Jour J in French—the letters “D” and “J” come from the first letter for the word “day” in either English or French.) It was on these serene beaches, at the crack of dawn on June 6, 1944, that the Allies finally gained a foothold in France, and Nazi Europe was doomed to crumble.
“The first 24 hours of the invasion will be decisive... The fate of Germany depends on the outcome... For the Allies, as well as Germany, it will be the longest day.”
—Field Marshal Erwin Rommel to his aide, April 22, 1944 (from The Longest Day, by Cornelius Ryan)
June of 2014 marks the 70th anniversary of the landings. There will be huge D-Day commemorations around June 6—many heads of state are likely to attend, but there are only a few veterans still alive for these solemn ceremonies. (If you plan to come near the anniversary, you’ll need to book about six months ahead.) All along this rambling coast, locals will never forget what the troops and their families sacrificed all those years ago. A warm regard for Americans has survived political disputes, from de Gaulle to “Freedom Fries.” This remains particularly friendly soil for Americans—a place where their soldiers are still honored and the image of the US as a force for good has remained largely untarnished.
I’ve listed the D-Day sites from east to west, starting with Arromanches (note that several are closed in January). Americans prefer to focus on the American sector (west of Arromanches), rather than the British and Canadian sectors (east of Arromanches), which have been overbuilt with resorts, making it harder to envision the events of June 1944. For more information on visiting the D-Day beaches, www.normandiememoire.com is a useful resource.
If you only have one day, I’d spend it entirely on the beaches and miss the Caen Memorial Museum. (If you want to squeeze in the museum, visit it on your way to or from the beaches—but remember that the American Cemetery closes at 18:00 mid-April-mid-Sept and at 17:00 the rest of the year—and you need at least 1.5 hours there.) With the exciting sites and museums along the beaches, the Caen Memorial Museum is less important for most.
If you’re traveling by car, begin on the cliffs above Arromanches. Drive a quarter-mile downhill to the town and visit Port Winston and the D-Day Landing Museum, then continue west to Longues-sur-Mer. Spend your afternoon visiting the American Cemetery and its thought-provoking visitors center, walking on the beach at Vierville-sur-Mer, and exploring the Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument. Try to find time for the terrific Utah Beach Landing Museum.
Other good options include visiting the strategic town of Ste-Mère Eglise to learn about the paratroopers’ role in the invasion, and a quick stop at the German Military Cemetery. Canadians will want to start at the Juno Beach Centre and Canadian Cemetery (in Courseulles-sur-Mer, 10 minutes east of Arromanches), then pick up the itinerary described above.
For those sans car, it’s easiest to take a minivan tour or taxi from Bayeux, or—for a really full day—combine a visit to the Caen Memorial Museum with their guided minivan tour of the beaches. Public transport is available, but not practical since it is very limited. Many find that a one-day car rental works best.
Ideally, spend one day at Arromanches and the Omaha Beach sites, and another half-day at the Utah Beach sites (then head off to Mont St-Michel or Honfleur).
Though the minivan excursions listed below teach important history lessons—drawing Americans and Canadians out of their cars—renting a car is a less expensive way to visit the beaches, particularly for three or more people (for rental suggestions, see Bayeux’s “Helpful Hints” on here or “Arrival in Caen” on here).
However, if you’re staying in Paris and want to make the D-Day beaches a day-trip in a rental car, think twice. A train from Paris to Caen (the most convenient place to pick up a car) takes over two hours. Then you’ll face rental paperwork and at least a half-hour drive to your first stop at Arromanches. At a minimum, just getting to and from the D-Day beaches will take 6-7 hours out of your day—severely limiting your time at any one sight (many close at 18:00). A better alternative for Paris-based travelers is to book a service that will meet you at a train station and drive you to sights (see “By Taxi” and “By Fully Guided Minivan Tour” next). Or take a bus tour that starts in Paris.
Note that driving in France can be stressful for the average American unused to narrow roads, confusing signage, and tailgating French drivers (for tips, see here). Park in monitored locations at the sites, since break-ins are a problem—particularly at the American Cemetery—and consider hiring a guide to enrich the experience—and help navigate (see “Private Tours,” later).
Hardy souls can bike between some sites (though distances are long enough to discourage most). Very limited bus service links Bayeux, the coastal town of Arromanches, and the most impressive sites of D-Day (see Bus Verts du Calvados information on here). Consider a bus one way and taxi the other. For small groups, hiring a taxi for the day is far cheaper than taking a minivan tour, but you don’t get the history.
Taxi minivans shuttle up to seven people between the key sites at reasonable rates (which vary depending on how far you go). Allow €240 for an eight-hour taxi day (€300 on Sun) to visit the top Utah and Omaha Beach sites. Figure about €21 each way between Bayeux and Arromanches, €36 between Bayeux and the American Cemetery, and €95 for a 2.5-hour visit to Omaha Beach sites from Bayeux or Arromanches (50 percent surcharge after 19:00 and on Sun, taxi tel. 02 31 92 92 40 or mobile 06 70 40 07 96, www.taxisbayeux.com, taxisbayeux@orange.fr).
Abbeilles Taxis offer D-Day excursions from Caen (€130-3.5-hour visit to Omaha Beach sites, €270-full-day visit, tel. 02 31 52 17 89, www.taxis-abbeilles-caen.com).
An army of small companies offers all-day excursions to the D-Day beaches from Bayeux or nearby. The tour companies and guides listed in this section are all quality operators that I trust. Most deliver riveting commentary about these moving sites. Because they pick up and drop off at select train stations, they are popular with day-trippers from Paris. To land one of these top-notch guides, book your tour as far in advance as possible (three months is best), or pray for a last-minute cancellation. The best way to save on the cost is to hire a guide who offers half-day tours or one who is willing to join you in your rental car (noted in listings below).
Cost: These tours are pricey, because you’re hiring a professional guide and driver/vehicle for the day. All guides charge about the same. A few have regularly scheduled departures available for individual sign-up (expect to pay about €50-60/person for a half-day and €90/person for a full day), but many take only private groups (figure €475-550 for up to eight people). Most tours don’t go inside museums (which are self-explanatory), but those that do usually include entry fees—ask. Although many operators offer all-day tours only, these guides may do half-day trips: Paul de Winter, Normandy Sightseeing Tours, Vanessa Letourneur, Edward Robinson, Eva Ruttger, Victory Tours, and Mathias Leclere.
Working with Your Guide: Request extra time at the American Cemetery to see the excellent visitors center. Don’t be afraid to take charge of your tour if you have other specific interests (some guides can get lost in battle minutiae that you don’t have time for). Many tours prefer to pick up in or near Bayeux, and a few levy a small surcharge for a Caen pickup. While some companies discourage children, others embrace them.
The following guides accept individual sign-ups for their scheduled departures.
D-Day Historian Tours are run by Paul Woodadge, a passionate historian and teacher who takes your learning seriously. He offers regularly scheduled tours in his minivan several days a week (€85/day) and also gives private tours. His “Band of Brothers Tour” is excellent (tel. 02 31 22 28 82, www.ddayhistorian.com, paul@ddayhistorian.com).
Paul de Winter is clean-cut, serious about teaching, has a PhD in military history, and has written a book titled Defeating Hitler. History buffs will be happy, but so will others as Paul’s delightful wife and driver, Fiona, helps balance the conversation (€70/half-day, €95/day, 6-person maximum, private tours available, www.dewintertours.com, info@dewintertours.com).
Normandy Sightseeing Tours delivers a French perspective through the voices of its small fleet of licensed guides. They take individual sign-ups and private groups (€45-morning tour, €60-afternoon tour, €90-all-day tour), and will pick you up anywhere you like (for a price). Because there are many guides, the quality of their teaching is less consistent—guides David, Olivier, and Karinne get the best reviews but only do private tours (tel. 02 31 51 70 52, www.normandy-sightseeing-tours.com, fredericguerin@wanadoo.fr).
Vanessa Letourneur and her colleague Sabrina are capable, likable French natives who can guide anywhere in Normandy. Vanessa, who worked at the Caen Memorial Museum for years, offers half-day tours from Bayeux or Caen for €60/person (mobile 06 98 95 89 45, www.normandypanorama.com).
The Caen Memorial Museum runs a busy program of half-day tours covering the American and Canadian sectors in combination with a visit to the museum. This option works well for those who have limited time (see museum listing on here). The museum has many guides (some good, some mediocre) and is more likely to have availability when others don’t.
The following guides offer tours only for private parties.
Dale Booth is a fine historian and a riveting storyteller. He leads tours for up to eight people to the American, Canadian, and British sectors using your vehicle or his (tel. 02 33 71 53 76, www.dboothnormandytours.com, dboothholidays@sfr.fr).
D-Day Battle Tours are run by WWII enthusiast Ellwood von Seibold. He drives a WWII Dodge Command Car, lives in a home where an American paratrooper landed in the garden, and owns a café in Ste-Mère Eglise (C-47 Café) that has the rudder of a WWII-era C-47 transport plane as its centerpiece. He lives this stuff and can explain the events as if you were there (tel. 02 33 94 44 13, mobile 06 32 67 49 15, www.ddaybattletours.com, ellwood@ddaybattletours.com).
Normandy Battle Tours are led by likable, easygoing Stuart Robertson, who loves teaching visitors about the landings. He also owns a bed-and-breakfast near Ste-Mère Eglise and offers combo accommodation/tour packages (tel. 02 33 41 28 34, www.normandybattletours.com, stuart@normandybattletours.com).
Michael Phillips has been guiding for 16 years and brings a gentle, personal perspective to his tours. He is easy to be with and specializes in private tours (British mobile 0780-246-8599, from France dial 00-44/780-246-8599, www.d-daytours.com, info@d-daytours.com).
Edward Robinson, Irish, informal, and chatty (a national trait?), has previously guided for the Caen Memorial Museum and knows his way around the beaches. He does a terrific tour of the Omaha Beach sector (particularly Pointe du Hoc) and fires important information at you like a machine gun. Taking up to six passengers in his minivan, he tailors each tour to his clients’ needs and tries to get off the beaten track (www.battleofnormandytours.com, edrobinson@battleofnormandytours.com).
Eva Ruttger is young, smart, and energetic. She was raised in Germany and can speak to that perspective when touring the beaches. She offers full- and half-day tours in an eight-person minivan, or will join your car for less. For a multi-day tour, she can pick you up in Paris and guide in Giverny, Honfleur, or other towns on the way to the D-Day beaches (mobile 06 50 48 68 19, www.visitnormandybeaches.com, info@visitnormandybeaches.com).
Victory Tours is run by friendly Dutchman Roel (pronounced “rule”), who gives half-day, all-day, and two-day tours. His tours are informal and entertaining, but sufficiently informative for most (departs from Bayeux only, tel. 02 31 51 98 14, www.victorytours.com, victorytours@orange.fr).
Lucie Hoffmann, hip, relaxed, and French, has been guiding for 10 years throughout Normandy. Having worked for four years at the Caen Memorial Museum, she knows her WWII history. She also loves guiding kids (mobile 06 03 09 10 21, luciehoffmann@msn.com).
Mathias Leclere brings a thoughtful, French perspective to his tour. Born four miles from Juno Beach to a family with three centuries of roots in Normandy, he is part of its soil. Mathias is a self-taught historian who leads half- and full-day tours in his minivan (www.ddayguidedtours.com).
Normandy Pass: If you plan to visit several D-Day sites, you can save a few euros by buying the Normandy Pass (€1 added to the full-price admission at your first site). You’ll save €1 at most subsequent sites, but the Caen Memorial Museum is not included. The pass is valid for one month and is transferrable to anyone.
Good Map: The free and well-done Exploration and Emotion: The Historical Area of the Battle of Normandy booklet gives succinct reviews of 29 D-Day museums and sites with current opening times. It also mentions driving itineraries that are linked to roadside signposts, helping you understand the significance of the area you are passing through. The map is available at TIs, but you usually need to ask for it (or you can download it yourself from www.normandiememoire.com).
Food Strategies: The D-Day landing sites are rural, and you won’t find a restaurant or grocery on every corner. This is the time to pack that perfect French picnic. Especially if you are traveling with kids, load up on snacks and beverages before heading out. Otherwise, consider timing your lunch to coincide with your visit to Omaha Beach, where you’ll find recommended restaurants nearby (see here).
This small town was ground zero for the D-Day invasion. Almost overnight, it sprouted the immense harbor, Port Winston, which gave the Allies a foothold in Normandy, allowing them to begin their victorious push to Berlin and end World War II. The postwar period brought a long decline. Only recently has the population of tiny Arromanches finally returned to its June 5, 1944, numbers. Here you’ll find a good museum, an evocative beach and bluff, and a touristy-but-fun little town that offers a pleasant cocktail of war memories, cotton candy, and beachfront trinket shops. Arromanches makes a great base for sightseeing (I’ve listed accommodations under “Sleeping in Arromanches,” later). Sit on the seawall after dark and listen to the waves lick the sand while you contemplate the events that took place here 70 years ago.
The TI has the Exploration and Emotion booklet, bus schedules, a photo booklet of area hotels, and a list of chambres d’hôtes (daily June-Aug 9:30-19:00, Sept-May 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-16:30, opposite the recommended Hôtel d’Arromanches at 2 Avenue Maréchal Joffre, tel. 02 31 22 36 45, www.ot-arromanches.fr).
The main parking lot by the museum costs €1 per hour. For free parking and less traffic, look for the lot between the small grocery store and Ideale Hôtel Mountbatten as you enter Arromanches.
ATM: Across the street from the museum parking lot, you’ll find an ATM run by the French postal system.
Groceries: A little supermarket is a few blocks above the beach, across from the Ideale Hôtel Mountbatten.
Taxi: To get an Arromanches-based taxi, call mobile 06 66 62 00 99.
In this section, I’ve linked Arromanches’ D-Day sites with some self-guided commentary.
Start on the cliffs above the town, overlooking the site of the impressive WWII harbor.
Getting There: Drive two minutes toward Courseulles-sur-Mer and pay €3 to park, or park in Arromanches and walk up. Non-drivers can hike 10 minutes uphill from Arromanches, or take the free white train from the museum to the top of the bluff (runs daily June-Sept, Sat-Sun only Oct-May).
Self-Guided Tour: This commentary will lead you around the site.
• Find the concrete viewpoint overlooking the town and the beaches and prepare for your briefing. Beyond Arromanches to the left is the American sector, with Omaha Beach and then Utah Beach (notice the sheer cliffs); below and to the right lie the British and Canadian sectors (more level terrain).
Now get this: Along the beaches below, the Allies arrived in the largest amphibious attack ever, launching the liberation of Western Europe. On D-Day +1—June 7, 1944—17 old ships sailed 90 miles across the English Channel under their own steam to Arromanches. Their crews sank them so that each bow faced the next ship’s stern, forming a sea barrier. Then 500 tugboats towed 115 football-field-size cement blocks (called “Mulberries”) across the channel. These were also sunk, creating a four-mile-long breakwater 1.5 miles offshore. Finally, engineers set up seven floating steel “pierheads” with extendable legs; they then linked these to shore with four mile-long floating roads made of concrete pontoons. Soldiers placed anti-aircraft guns on the Mulberries and pontoons, protecting a port the size of Dover, England. Within just six days of operation, 54,000 vehicles, 326,000 troops, and 110,000 tons of goods had crossed the English Channel. An Allied toehold in Normandy was secure. Eleven months later, Hitler was dead and the war was over.
The Arromanches 360° Theater behind you shows a moving film, Normandy’s 100 Days, encompassing D-Day and the ferocious battle to liberate Normandy. It flashes back and forth from quiet farmlands and beaches to the summer of 1944. It’s a noisy montage of videos on a 360° screen—stand as near to the center as you can (€4.90, daily mid-Feb-Dec 10:00-18:00, until 18:30 June-Aug; closed Jan-mid-Feb, 2 shows/hour at :10 and :40 past the hour, 20 minutes, tel. 02 31 06 06 45, www.arromanches360.com).
• Head down to the town’s main parking lot and find the round bulkhead on the seawall, near the D-Day Landing Museum entry. Stand facing the sea.
The world’s first prefab harbor was created out there by the British. Since it was Churchill’s brainchild, it was named Port Winston. Designed to be a temporary harbor (it was used for six months), it was supposed to wash out to sea over time—which is exactly what happened with its twin harbor at Omaha Beach (that one lasted only 12 days, thanks to a terrible storm). If the tide is out, you’ll see several rusted floats mired on the sand close in—these supported the pontoon roads. If you stare hard enough at the concrete blocks in the sea to the right, you’ll see that one still has what’s left of an anti-aircraft gun on it. On the hill beyond the museum, you’ll spot a Sherman tank, one of 50,000 deployed during the landings. Behind the museum (not viewable from here) you’ll find a section of a pontoon road, an anti-aircraft gun, and a Higgins boat, which was used to ferry 36 soldiers at a time from naval ships to the beaches. If you can, walk down to the beach and wander among the concrete and rusted litter of the battle—and be thankful that all you hear are birds and surf.
The D-Day Landing Museum, facing the harbor, makes a worthwhile 45-minute visit and is the only way to get a full appreciation of how the artificial harbor was built. While gazing through windows at the site of this amazing endeavor, you can study helpful models, videos, and photographs illustrating the construction and use of the prefabricated harbor. Those blimp-like objects tethered to the port prevented German planes from getting too close (though the German air force had been made largely irrelevant by this time). Ponder the remarkable undertaking that resulted in this harbor being built in just 12 days, while battles raged. One video (8 minutes, ground floor) recalls D-Day; the other (15 minutes, upstairs) features the construction of the temporary port—ask for times when it is shown in English.
Cost and Hours: €7.50, daily May-Aug 9:00-19:00, Sept 9:00-18:00, Oct-Dec and Feb-April 10:00-12:30 & 13:30-17:00, closed Jan, pick up English flier at door, tel. 02 31 22 34 31, www.arromanches-museum.com.
Arromanches, with its pinwheels and seagulls, has a salty beach-town ambience that makes it a good overnight stop. Park in the town’s main lot at the museum (€1/hour, free 19:00-9:00). For evening fun, do what most do and head for the small bar at Restaurant “Le Pappagall” (see “Eating in Arromanches”), or, for more of a nightclub scene, have a drink at Pub Marie Celeste, around the corner on Rue de la Poste. Drivers should also consider my sleeping recommendations near Omaha Beach (see here).
$$$ Hôtel de la Marine*** has one of the best locations for D-Day enthusiasts, with point-blank views to the artificial harbor site from most of its 28 comfortable and non-smoking rooms (Db-€116, Tb-€150, Qb-€175, bigger family rooms, includes breakfast, elevator, Wi-Fi, view restaurant, half-board strongly encouraged—figure €85/person, Quai du Canada, tel. 02 31 22 34 19, www.hotel-de-la-marine.fr, hotel.de.la.marine@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel d’Arromanches**, which sits on the main pedestrian drag near the TI, is a fine value, with nine mostly small but smartly appointed rooms (some with water views), all up a tight stairway. Here you’ll find the cheery, recommended Restaurant “Le Pappagall” and English-speaking Louis at the helm (Db-€67, Tb-€76, breakfast-€10, Wi-Fi, 2 Rue Colonel René Michel, tel. 02 31 22 36 26, www.hoteldarromanches.fr, reservation@hoteldarromanches.fr).
$$ Le Mulberry** is an intimate place with nine handsome rooms and a small restaurant, just a five-minute walk up from the touristy beach. Since it’s near the town’s church, expect bells to mark the hour until 22:00 (Db-€83-105, Tb-€105-150, includes breakfast, reception closed 13:00-17:00 and after 19:00, a block below the church at 6 Rue Maurice Lihare, tel. 02 31 22 36 05, www.lemulberry.fr, mail@lemulberry.fr).
$$ Ideale Mountbatten Hôtel**, located a long block up from the water, is an eight-room, two-story, motel-esque place with generously sized, clean, and good-value lodgings. Upstairs rooms have a little view over the sea (Db-€82, Tb-€101, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, easy and free parking, short block below the main post office—PTT—at 20 Boulevard Gilbert Longuet, tel. 02 31 22 59 70, www.hotelmountbatten.com, mountbattenhotel@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Le Mas Normand, 10 minutes east of Arromanches in Ver-sur-Mer, is the child of Provençale Mylène and Normand Christian. Here you get a warm welcome and the best of both worlds: four lovingly decorated, Provence-style rooms wrapped in 18th-century Norman stone. There’s a lovely yard with ample grass, a dog, some geese, and no smoking (Db-€75-95, Tb-€120, Qb-€140, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi; drive to the east end of little Ver-sur-Mer, turn right at Hôtel P’tit Bouchon, take another right where the road makes a “T,” and find the sign at 8 Impasse de la Rivière; tel. 02 31 21 97 75, www.lemasnormand.com, lemasnormand@wanadoo.fr). Book ahead for Christian’s home-cooked gourmet dinner, including wine, cider, and coffee (€35/person, requires 4 people, kids’ menus available).
$ At André and Madeleine Sebire’s B&B, you’ll experience a real Norman farm. The hardworking owners offer four modest, homey, and dirt-cheap rooms in the middle of nowhere (Sb-€35, Db-€40, Tb-€45, includes breakfast, 2 miles from Arromanches in the tiny village of Ryes at Ferme du Clos Neuf, tel. 02 31 22 32 34, emmanuelle.sebire@wanadoo.fr, little English spoken). Try these directions: Follow signs into Ryes, then locate the faded green Chambres d’Hôte sign opposite the village’s lone restaurant. Follow that sign onto Rue de la Forge, cross a tiny bridge, turn right onto Rue de la Tringale, and follow it for a half-mile until you see a small sign on the right to Le Clos Neuf. Park near the tractors.
You’ll find cafés, crêperies, and shops selling sandwiches to go (ideal for beachfront picnics). The following restaurants offer reliable dining.
The lively Le Bistro d’Arromanches, on a short traffic-free street, has good prices and reliable, basic bistro fare (€8-12 pizza and pasta, €7-13 salads, daily, 19 Rue du Maréchal Joffre, tel. 02 31 22 31 32).
Restaurant “Le Pappagall” (French slang for “parakeet”) has tasty mussels, filling fish choucroute, “les feesh and cheeps,” salads, and a full offering with fair prices (€22-35 menus, see Hôtel d’Arromanches listing, earlier).
Lose the crowds at crêperie La Ripaille, a short block inland from the busy main drag. Sweet Sylvie will serve you a filling deep-dish crêpe with a green salad for €10 (closed Sun, 14 Rue du Colonel René Michel, tel. 02 31 51 02 31).
Hôtel de la Marine allows you to dine or drink in style on the water. The cuisine gets mixed reviews, but the view doesn’t (menus from €19, cool bar with same views, daily, see hotel listing earlier).
From Arromanches by Bus to: Bayeux (bus #74/#75, 3-5/day, none on Sun Sept-June, 30 minutes); Juno Beach (bus #74/#75, 20 minutes). The bus stop is near the main post office, four long blocks above the sea (the stop for Bayeux is on the sea side of the street; the stop for Juno Beach is on the post office side).
The American sector is divided between Omaha and Utah beaches. Omaha Beach starts a few miles west of Arromanches and has the most important sites for visitors, including the American Cemetery and Pointe du Hoc (four miles west of Omaha). Utah Beach sites are farther away (on the road to Cherbourg), and were also critical to the ultimate success of the Normandy invasion. The American Airborne sector covers a broad area behind Utah Beach and centers on Ste-Mère Eglise. You’ll see memorials sprouting up all around the countryside.
Four German casemates (three with guns intact)—built to guard against seaborne attacks—hunker down at the end of a country road. The guns, 300 yards inland, were arranged in a semicircle to maximize the firing range east and west, and are the only original coastal artillery guns remaining in place in the D-Day region. (Much was scrapped after the war, long before people thought of tourism.) This battery was a critical link in Hitler’s Atlantic Wall defense, which consisted of more than 15,000 structures stretching from Norway to the Pyrenees. The guns could hit targets up to 12 miles away with relatively fine accuracy if linked to good target information. The Allies had to take them out.
Enter the third bunker you pass. It took seven soldiers to manage each gun, which could be loaded and fired six times per minute (the shells weighed 40 pounds). Judging from the echoes you hear inside the bunker, I can only imagine the excruciating noise that was made each time the gun fired. Outside, climb above the bunker and find the hooks that were used to secure camouflage netting, making it nigh-impossible for bombers to locate them.
A lone observation bunker (look for the low-lying concrete bunker roof on the cliffs) was designed to direct the firing; field telephones connected the bunker to the gun batteries by underground wires. Walk to the observation bunker to appreciate the strategic view over the channel. From here you can walk along the glorious Sentier du Littoral (coastal path) above the cliffs and see Arromanches in the distance. Or enjoy beachy views by driving five minutes down to the water (continue on the small road past the parking lot).
Cost and Hours: Free and always open. The €5 booklet is helpful, but skip the €4 tour.
Getting There: You’ll find the guns 10 minutes west of Arromanches on D-514. Follow Port en Bessin signs; once in Longues-sur-Mer, follow Batterie signs; turn right at the town’s only traffic light.
“Soldiers’ graves are the greatest preachers of peace.”
—Albert Schweitzer
Crowning a bluff just above Omaha Beach and the eye of the D-Day storm, 9,387 brilliant white-marble crosses and Stars of David glow in memory of Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on the beaches below. You’ll want to spend at least 1.5 hours at this stirring site.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily mid-April-mid-Sept 9:00-18:00, mid-Sept-mid-April 9:00-17:00, tel. 02 31 51 62 00, www.abmc.gov. Park carefully, as break-ins have been a problem. You’ll find good WCs and water fountains at the parking lot. Guided tours are offered a few times a day in high season—call ahead for times.
Getting There: The cemetery is just east of St-Laurent-sur-Mer and northwest of Bayeux in Colleville-sur-Mer. From route D-514, directional signs will point the way.
Self-Guided Tour: Your visit begins at the impressive visitors center. Pass security, pick up the handout, sign the register, and allow time to appreciate the superb displays. On the arrival floor, computer terminals provide access to a database containing the story of each US serviceman who died in Normandy.
Descend one level, where you’ll learn about the invasion preparations and the immense logistical challenges they presented. The heart of the center tells the stories of the individuals who gave their lives to liberate people they could not know, and shows the few possessions they died with. This adds a personal touch to the D-Day landings and prepares visitors for the fields of white crosses and Stars of David outside. The pressure on these men to succeed in this battle is palpable. There are a manageable number of display cases, a few moving videos (including an interview with Dwight Eisenhower), and a must-see 16-minute film (cushy theater chairs, on the half-hour, you can enter late).
A lineup of informational plaques provides a worthwhile and succinct overview of key events from September 1939 to June 5, 1944. Starting with June 6, 1944, the plaques present the progress of the landings in three-hour increments. Amazingly, Omaha Beach was secured within six hours of the landings.
A path from the visitors center leads to a bluff overlooking the piece of Normandy beach called “that embattled shore—portal of freedom.” It’s quiet and peaceful today, but the horrific carnage of June 6, 1944, is hard to forget. An orientation table looks over the sea. Nearby, steps climb down to the beautiful beach below. A walk on the beach is a powerful experience and a must if you are sans both car and tour. Visitors with cars can drive to the beach at Vierville-sur-Mer (see next listing).
In the cemetery, you’ll find a striking memorial with a soaring statue representing the spirit of American youth. Around the statue, giant reliefs of the Battle of Normandy and the Battle of Europe are etched on the walls. Behind is the semicircular Garden of the Missing, with the names of 1,557 soldiers who were never found. A small metal knob next to the name indicates one whose body was eventually found—there aren’t many.
Finally, wander through the peaceful and poignant sea of headstones. Notice the names, home states, and dates of death (but no birth dates) inscribed on each. Dog-tag numbers are etched into the lower backs of the crosses. During the campaign, the dead were buried in temporary cemeteries throughout various parts of Normandy. After the war, the families of the soldiers could decide whether their loved ones should remain with their comrades or be brought home (61 percent opted for repatriation).
A disproportionate number of officers are buried here, including General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr., who joined the invasion despite having a weak heart—he died from a heart attack one month after D-Day (you can find Ted’s and his brother Quentin’s graves along the sea, about 150 yards down, in the second grouping of graves just after the row 27 marker—look for the gold lettering). Families knew that these officers would want to be buried alongside the men with whom they fought. Also buried here are two of the Niland brothers, now famous from Saving Private Ryan (in the middle of the cemetery, just before the circular chapel, turn right just after the letter “F”).
France has given the US permanent free use of this 172-acre site. It is immaculately maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission.
This essential detour for drivers allows direct access onto Omaha Beach. From the American Cemetery, drive west along D-514 into St-Laurent, then take a one-way loop drive along the beach, following Vierville par la Côte signs on D-517. As you drop down toward the beach, WWII junkies should stop at the Omaha Beach Museum (Musée Memorial d’Omaha Beach) parking lot. Outside the museum, you’ll see a rusted metal object with several legs, called a “Czech hedgehog”—thousands of these were placed on the beaches by the Germans to foil the Allies’ advance. Find the American 155 mm gun nearby, and keep this image in mind for your stop at Pointe du Hoc (this artillery piece is similar in size to the German guns that were targeted by US Army Rangers at that site). The Sherman tank is one of very few remaining along the D-Day beaches. The museum itself is skippable (€6, daily mid-May-mid-Sept 9:30-19:00, shorter hours off-season, closed mid-Nov-mid-Feb, tel. 02 31 21 97 44, www.musee-memorial-omaha.com, good 20-minute film).
A right turn along the water leads to Le Ruquet (where the road ends), a good place to appreciate the challenges that American soldiers faced on D-Day. The small German bunker and embedded gun protected this point, which offered the easiest access inland from Omaha Beach. It was here that the Americans would establish their first road inland.
Find your way out to the beach and stroll to the right, below the American Cemetery, to better understand the assignment that American forces were handed on June 6: You’re wasted from a lack of sleep and nervous anticipation. Now you get seasick too, as you’re about to land in a small, flat-bottomed boat, cheek-to-jowl with 35 other soldiers. Your water-soaked pack feels like a boulder, and your gun feels heavier. The boat’s front ramp drops open, and you run for your life for 500 yards through water and sand onto this open beach, dodging bullets from above (the landings had to occur at low tide so that mines would be visible).
Omaha Beach witnessed by far the most intense battles of any along the D-Day beaches—although the war planners thought Utah Beach would be more deadly. The hills above were heavily fortified (and both the aerial bombers and the naval artillery failed to put them out of commission), and a single German machine gun could fire 1,200 rounds a minute. That’s right—1,200. It’s amazing that anyone survived. The highest casualty rates in Normandy occurred at Omaha Beach, nicknamed “Bloody Omaha.” Though there are no accurate figures for D-Day, it is estimated that on the first day of the campaign, the Allies suffered 10,500 casualties (killed, wounded, and missing)—6,000 of whom were Americans. Estimates for Omaha Beach casualties range from 2,500 to 4,800 killed and wounded on that day, many of whom drowned after being wounded. But thanks to an overwhelming effort and huge support from the US and Royal navies, 34,000 Americans would land on the beach by day’s end.
If the tide’s out, you’ll notice some remains of rusted metal objects. Omaha Beach was littered with obstacles to disrupt the landings. Thousands of metal poles and Czech hedgehogs, miles of barbed wire, and more than four million mines were scattered along these beaches. At least 150,000 tons of metal were taken from the beaches after World War II, and they still didn’t get it all. They never will.
If your stomach is grumbling, Hôtel La Sapinière’s airy and reasonable café is a short walk away (just west of the American Cemetery; see here).
Back in your car, retrace your route along the beach (look for worthwhile information boards along the sea) and hug the coast past the flags heading toward the Pointe de la Percée cliff, which, from here, looks very Pointe du Hoc-like (American Army Rangers mistook this cliff for Pointe du Hoc, costing them time and lives). A local artist made that striking metal sculpture rising from the waves in honor of the liberating forces, and to symbolize the rise of freedom on the wings of hope.
Keep hugging the coastline on D-517 and pull over about 100 yards before the Hôtel Casino to find the two German bunkers just below the hotel—now transformed into a monument to US National Guard troops who landed on D-Day. Anti-tank guns housed in these bunkers were not aimed out to sea, but instead were positioned to fire directly up the beach.
Look out to the ocean. It was here that the Americans assembled their own floating bridge and artificial harbor (à la Arromanches). The harbor functioned for 12 days before being destroyed by an unusually vicious June storm (the artificial ports at Arromanches and Utah Beach were used until November of 1944). Have a seaside drink or lunch at the casino’s café, and contemplate a stroll toward the jutting Pointe de la Percée.
Drive on past the Hôtel Casino on D-517. As you climb away from the beach, look to your left and try to find two small concrete window frames high in the cliff that served German machine gun nests, and notice the pontoon bridge on the right that had been installed at this beach. After the storm, it was moved to Arromanches and used as a second off-loading ramp. It was discovered only a few years ago...in a junkyard.
At the junction with D-514, turn right (west) toward Pointe du Hoc. Along the way, in the hamlet of Englesqueville la Percée, you’ll see a 10th-century fortified farm on the left offering Calvados tastings. To try some, cross the drawbridge, ring the rope bell, and meet charming owners Souzic and Bernard Lebrec. Start with their cider, move on to Pommeau (a mix of apple juice and Calvados), and finish with Calvados. They also sell various other regional products, including D-Day Honey, which is made by one of the guides I recommend (tel. 09 60 38 60 17, mobile 06 76 37 46 41).
The intense bombing of the beaches by Allied forces is best experienced here, where US Army Rangers scaled impossibly steep cliffs to disable a German gun battery. Pointe du Hoc’s bomb-cratered, lunar-like landscape and remaining bunkers make it one of the most evocative of the D-Day sites.
Cost and Hours: Pointe du Hoc is free and open daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, Oct-March 9:00-17:00, tel. 02 31 51 62 00.
Getting There: It’s off route D-514, 20 minutes west of the American Cemetery.
Visiting Pointe du Hoc: Park near the new visitors center and stop here first for an overview of the heroic efforts to take the Pointe. Relax in the cinema for a 20-minute film on this Mission Impossible assault. Then follow the path toward the sea. Upon entering the site, you’ll see an opening on your left that’s as wide as a manhole cover and about six feet deep. This was a machine gun nest. Three soldiers would be holed up down there—a commander, a gun loader, and the gunner.
Climb to the viewing platform ahead and survey the scene. This point of land was the Germans’ most heavily fortified position along the D-Day beaches and held six anti-ship guns capable of firing 12 miles east to west. Omaha Beach is 11 miles to the east; Utah Beach is seven miles to the west. For the American landings to succeed, the Allies had to run the Germans off this cliff. So they bombed it to smithereens, dropping over 1,500 tons of bombs on this one cliff top. That explains the craters. Heavy bombing started in April of 1944, continued into May, and hit its peak on June 6—making this the most intensely bombarded site of the D-Day targets. Even so, only about 5 percent of the bunkers were destroyed. The problem? Multiple direct hits were needed to destroy bunkers like these, which were well-camouflaged and whose thick, dense walls were heavily reinforced.
Walk around. The battle-scarred German bunkers and the cratered landscape remain much as the Rangers left them. You can crawl in and out of the bunkers at your own risk, but picnicking is forbidden—the bunkers are considered gravesites. Notice the six large, round open sites with short rusted poles stuck in a concrete center. Each held an anti-ship gun (picture the 155 mm gun you saw by the Omaha Beach Museum). Destroying these was the Rangers’ goal.
Walk to the bunker hanging over the ocean with the stone column at its top. This memorial symbolizes the Ranger “Dagger,” planted firmly in the ground. Read the inscription, then walk below the sculpture to peer into the narrow slit of the bunker. Look over the cliff, and think about the 225 handpicked Rangers who attempted a castle-style assault. They landed to your right, used ladders borrowed from London fire departments to get a head start up the cliff, and fired rockets to position their grappling hooks and climbing ropes on the cliff face. Timing was critical, as they had just 30 minutes before the rising tide would overcome the men below. Only about a third of the Rangers survived the assault. After finally succeeding in their task, the Rangers found that the guns had been moved—the Germans had put telegraph poles in their place. (Commander Erwin Rommel had directed that all coastal guns not under the cover of roofs be pulled back due to air strikes.) The Rangers eventually found the guns stashed a half-mile inland and destroyed them.
Climb down into the bunker, which was the site’s communication center, and find the room with the narrow opening. From here, men would direct the firing of the six anti-ship guns via telephone. Also in the bunker are rooms where soldiers ate and slept.
To ponder German losses, visit this somber, thought-provoking resting place of 21,000 German soldiers. This was the original site for the American Cemetery now on Omaha Beach. And compared to the American Cemetery, which symbolizes hope and victory, this one is a clear symbol of defeat and despair. The site seems appropriately bleak, with two graves per simple marker and dark, basalt crosses in groups of five scattered about. Birth and death dates (day/month/year) on the graves make clear the tragedy of the soldiers’ short lives. The circular mound in the middle covers the remains of 207 unknown soldiers and 89 others. Notice the ages of the young soldiers who gave their lives for a cause they couldn’t understand. A small visitors center gives more information on this and other German war cemeteries.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily April-Oct 8:00-19:00, Nov-March until 17:30, tel. 02 31 22 70 76.
Getting There: It’s on N-13 in the village of La Cambe, 15 minutes south of Pointe du Hoc and 15 minutes west of Bayeux (follow signs reading Cimetière Militaire Allemande).
With a car, you can find better deals on accommodations and wake up a stone’s throw from many landing sites. Besides these recommended spots, you’ll pass scads of good-value chambres d’hôtes as you prowl the D-Day beaches.
$$ Hôtel la Sapinière** is a find just a few steps from the beach below the American Cemetery. A grassy, beach-bungalow kind of place, it has sharp, crisp rooms, all with private patios, and a lighthearted, good-value restaurant/bar (Db-€90, loft Db-€105, Tb/Qb-€130; breakfast-€10, in Le Ruquet in St-Laurent-sur-Mer—find it a little west of the American Cemetery by taking D-517 down to the beach, turning right, and driving almost all the way to the road’s end; tel. 02 31 92 71 72, www.la-sapiniere.fr, scitand many landed in the town-hierry@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel du Casino** is a good place to experience Omaha Beach. This average-looking hotel has surprisingly comfortable rooms and sits alone, overlooking the beach in Vierville-sur-Mer, between the American Cemetery and Pointe du Hoc. The halls have pebble walls, and all rooms have views, but the best face the sea: Ask for côté mer. Don’t expect an effusive greeting. Introverted owner Madame Clémençon will leave you alone with the sand, waves, seagulls, and your thoughts (Db-€80, view Db-€90, extra bed-€16, view restaurant with menus from €27, café/bar on the beach below, tel. 02 31 22 41 02, hotel-du-casino@orange.fr). Don’t confuse this with the Hôtel du Casino in St-Valery en Caux.
$ At Ferme du Mouchel, animated Odile rents four colorful and good rooms with sweet gardens in a lovely farm setting (Db-€56, Tb-€64-74, Qb-€80-90, includes breakfast, a few minutes inland in the village of Formigny, well-signed from the beaches, tel. 02 31 22 53 79, mobile 06 15 37 50 20, www.ferme-du-mouchel.com, odile.lenourichel@orange.fr).
$ La Ferme du Lavoir has two good rooms at great prices (one is a huge quad) and cider/Calvados tastings (Db-€55, Tb-€70, Qb-€85, includes breakfast, about 2 miles south of American Cemetery on Route de St-Laurent-sur-Mer in Formigny, tel. 02 31 22 56 89, www.fermedulavoir.fr, contact@fermedulavoir.fr).
This is the best museum located on the D-Day beaches, and worth the 45-minute drive from Bayeux. For the Allied landings to succeed, many coordinated tasks had to be accomplished: Paratroopers had to be dropped inland, the resistance had to disable bridges and cut communications, bombers had to deliver payloads on target and on time, the infantry had to land safely on the beaches, and supplies had to follow the infantry closely. This thorough yet manageable museum pieces those many parts together in a series of fascinating exhibits and displays.
Cost and Hours: €7.50, daily June-Sept 9:30-19:00, Oct-Nov and Feb-May 10:00-18:00, closed Dec-Jan, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 02 33 71 53 35, www.utah-beach.com. Guided museum tours are sometimes offered—call ahead or ask when you arrive (tours are free, tips appropriate).
Getting There: From Bayeux, travel west toward Cherbourg on N-13 and take the Utah Beach exit (D-913, two exits after passing Carentan). Turn right at the exit to reach the museum. An American and French flag duo leads to the entry as you approach. The road leaving the museum, the Route de la Liberté, runs all the way from Utah Beach to Cherbourg, and on to Paris and Berlin, with every kilometer identified with road markers.
Visiting the Museum: Built around the remains of a concrete German bunker, the museum nestles in the sand dunes on Utah Beach, with floors above and below sea level. Enter through the glass doors and learn about the American landings on Utah Beach, the German defenses there (Rommel was displeased at what he found two weeks before the invasion), and daily life before and after the occupation. Don’t miss the display of objects American soldiers brought to the French (chewing gum, Coke, Nescafé, and good cigarettes).
The highlight of the museum are the exhibits of innovative invasion equipment and videos demonstrating how it worked: the remote-controlled Goliath mine, the LVT-2 Water Buffalo and Duck amphibious vehicles, the wooden Higgins landing craft (named for the New Orleans man who invented it), and a fully restored B-26 bomber with its zebra stripes and 11 menacing machine guns—without which the landings would not have been possible (the yellow bomb icons indicate the number of missions a pilot had flown). Take time to enter the simulated briefing room and sense the pilots’ nervous energy—would your plane fly LOW or HIGH? Listen to the many videos as veterans describe how they took the beach and rushed into the interior—including testimony from Richard Winters, the leader of Easy Company in Stephen Ambrose’s WWII classic Band of Brothers.
The stunning grand finale is the large, glassed-in room overlooking the beach, with Pointe du Hoc looming to your right. From here, you’ll peer over re-created German trenches and feel what it must have felt like to be behind enemy lines. Many German bunkers remain buried in the dunes.
At this simple Romanesque church, two American medics (Kenneth Moore and Robert Wright) treated German and American wounded while battles raged only steps away. On June 6, American paratroopers landed around Angoville-au-Plain a few miles inland of Utah Beach and met fierce resistance from German forces. The two medics set up shop in the small church, and treated American and German soldiers for 72 hours straight, saving many lives. German patrols entered the church on a few occasions. The medics insisted that the soldiers leave their guns outside or leave the church—incredibly, they did. In the ultimate coincidence, this 12th-century church is dedicated to two martyrs who were doctors as well.
An informational display outside the church recounts the events here; an English handout is available inside. Pass through the small cemetery and enter the church. Inside, several wooden pews toward the rear still have visible bloodstains. Find the new window that honors the American medics and another that honors the paratroopers.
Cost and Hours: Free, €3 requested donation for brochure, daily 9:00-18:00.
Getting There: Take the Utah Beach exit (D-913) from N-13 and turn right, then look for the turnoff to Angoville-au-Plain.
In 1944, the Germans used this French home as a regional headquarters. Today, a tiny museum recounts the terrible battles that took place around the town of Carentan from June 6 to 11. A swampy inlet divided Omaha and Utah beaches, and it was critical for the Americans to take this land so that the armies on each beach could unite and move forward. But the Germans resisted, and a battle that was supposed to last one afternoon endured for five days and left more than 2,000 Americans dead. American soldiers named the road below the museum “Purple Heart Lane.”
The museum is ideal for enthusiasts and best for collectors of WWII paraphernalia (but overkill for the average traveler). Every display case shows incredible attention to detail. Dutch owner/collector/perfectionist Michel Detrez displays only original material. He acquired much of his collection from American veterans who wanted their “souvenirs” to be preserved for others to see. The museum doubles as a sales outlet, with a remarkable collection of D-Day items for sale—both original items and replicas.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily 9:00-18:00 except closed Sun mid-Oct-April, tel. 02 33 42 00 42, www.paratrooper-museum.org/us/DMC.html.
Getting There: It’s in St-Côme du Mont, 15 minutes south of Ste-Mère Eglise; from the N-13 highway, go two exits north of Carentan and turn left.
This celebrated village lies 15 minutes north of Utah Beach and was the first village to be liberated by the Americans, due largely to its strategic location on the Cotentin Peninsula. The area around Ste-Mère Eglise was the center of action for American paratroopers, whose objective was to land behind enemy lines in support of the American landing at Utah Beach. The TI has loads of information, can book minivan tours to Utah Beach sights, and rents audiovisual guides with GPS, allowing you to discover the town and beaches on your own (€8, €250 deposit, July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Sept-June 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:30, closed Sun, 6 Rue Eisenhower, tel. 02 33 21 00 33).
For The Longest Day movie buffs, Ste-Mère Eglise is a necessary pilgrimage. It was around this village that many paratroopers, facing terrible weather and heavy anti-aircraft fire, landed off-target—and many landed in the town. One American paratrooper dangled from the town’s church steeple for two hours (a parachute has been reinstalled on the steeple where Private John Steele’s became snagged—though not in the correct corner). And though many paratroopers were killed in the first hours of the invasion, the Americans eventually overcame their poor start and managed to take the town. They played a critical role in the success of the Utah Beach landings by securing roads and bridges behind enemy lines. Today, the village greets travelers with flag-draped streets and a handful of worthwhile sights.
At the center of town, the 700-year-old medieval church on the town square was the focus of the action during the invasion. It now holds two contemporary stained-glass windows that acknowledge the heroism of the Allies. One features St. Michael, patron saint of paratroopers.
Don’t miss the Airborne Museum (€7, daily April-Sept 9:00-18:45, Oct-Dec and Feb-March 10:00-17:00, closed Jan, 14 Rue Eisenhower, tel. 02 33 41 41 35, www.airborne-museum.org). Housed in two parachute-shaped structures, its collection is dedicated to the daring aerial landings that were essential to the success of D-Day. During the invasion, in the Utah Beach sector alone, 23,000 men were dropped from planes (remarkably, only 197 died), along with 1,700 vehicles and 1,800 tons of supplies. In one building, you’ll see a Waco glider (104 were flown into Normandy at first light on D-Day) that was used to land supplies in fields to support the paratroopers. Each glider could be used only once. Feel the canvas fuselage and check out the bare-bones interior. The second, larger building holds a Douglas C-47 plane that dropped parachutists, along with many other supplies essential to the successful landings.
The Canadians’ assignment for the Normandy invasions was to work with British forces to take the city of Caen. They hoped to make quick work of Caen, then move on. That didn’t happen. The Germans poured most of their reserves, including tanks, into the city and fought ferociously for two months. The Allies didn’t occupy Caen until August of 1944.
Located on the beachfront in the Canadian sector, this facility is dedicated to teaching travelers about the vital role Canadian forces played in the invasion, and about Canada in general. (Canada declared war on Germany two years before the United States, a fact little recognized by most Americans today.) After attending the 50th anniversary of the D-Day landings, Canadian veterans were saddened by the absence of information on their contribution (after the US and Britain, Canada contributed the largest number of troops—14,000), so they generated funds to build this place (plaques in front honor key donors).
Cost and Hours: €7, €11 with guided tour of Juno Beach, daily April-Sept 9:30-19:00, Oct and March 10:00-18:00, Nov-Dec and Feb 10:00-17:00, closed Jan, tel. 02 31 37 32 17, www.junobeach.org.
Tours: The Centre’s 45-minute, English-language guided tours of Juno Beach are definitely worthwhile (€5.50 for tour alone, €11 with Centre admission; April-Oct at 10:00, 12:00, and 15:00; July-Aug nearly hourly 10:00-16:00; verify times prior to your visit).
Getting There: It’s in Courseulles-sur-Mer, about 15 minutes east of Arromanches off D-514.
Visiting Juno Beach: Your visit to the Centre includes a short film, then many thoughtful exhibits that bring to life Canada’s unique ties with Britain, the US, and France, and explain how the war front affected the home front in Canada. The Centre also has rotating exhibits about Canada’s geography, economy, and more.
To better understand the Canadians’ role in the invasion, take advantage of the Centre’s eager-to-help, red-shirted “exchange students” (young Canadians who work as guides at the Centre for a 4-month period). They are great resources for what to do and see in “their” area. Be sure to ask for the hand-drawn map showing sights of interest.
The best way to appreciate this sector of the D-Day beaches is to take a tour with one of the Centre’s capable Canadian guides. The tour covers important aspects of the battles and touches on the changes to the sand dunes and beaches since the war.
Nearby: When leaving the Juno Beach Centre, to the left about 400 yards away you’ll spot a huge stainless steel cross. This is La Croix de Tourraine, which marks the site where General de Gaulle landed on June 14, 1944. Information plaques describe this important event, which cemented de Gaulle’s role as the leader of free France.
This small, touching cemetery hides a few miles above the Juno Beach Centre and makes a modest statement when compared with other, more grandiose cemeteries in this area. To me, it captures the understated nature of Canadians perfectly. Surrounded by beautiful farmland, with distant views to the beaches, you’ll find graves marked with the soldiers’ names and maple leaves, and decorated with live flowers or plants in their honor. From Courseulles-sur-Mer, follow signs to Caen on D-79. After about 2.5 miles (4 kilometers), take the Reviers turnoff at the roundabout.
Though it was mostly destroyed by WWII bombs, today’s Caen (pronounced “kahn,” population 115,000) is a thriving, workaday city packed with students and a few tourists. The WWII museum and the vibrant old city are the targets for travelers, though these sights come wrapped in a big city with rough edges. And though Bayeux or Arromanches—which are smaller—make the best base for most D-Day sites, train travelers with limited time might find urban Caen more practical because of its buses to Honfleur, convenient car-rental offices near the train station, and easy access to the Caen Memorial Museum.
The looming château, built by William the Conqueror in 1060, marks the city’s center. West of here, modern Rue St. Pierre is a popular shopping area and pedestrian zone. To the east, the more historic Vagueux quarter has many restaurants and cafés in half-timbered buildings. A marathon race in honor of the Normandy invasion is held every June 8 and ends at the Memorial Museum.
The TI is opposite the château on Place St. Pierre, 10 long blocks from the train station (take the tram to the St. Pierre stop). Pick up a map and free visitor’s guide filled with practical information (Mon-Sat 9:30-18:30, until 19:00 July-Aug, Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00 except closed Sun Oct-March, drivers follow Parking Château signs, tel. 02 31 27 14 14, www.tourisme.caen.fr).
These directions assume you’re headed for the town’s main attraction, the Caen Memorial Museum.
By Car: Finding the memorial is quick and easy. It’s a half-mile off the ring-road expressway (périphérique nord, take sortie #7, look for white Le Mémorial signs). When leaving the museum, follow Toutes Directions signs back to the ring road.
By Train: Caen is two hours from Paris (12/day) and 20 minutes from Bayeux (20/day). Caen’s modern train station is next to the gare routière, where buses from Honfleur arrive. Car-rental offices for Hertz, Avis, Europcar, and Sixt are right across the street. There is no baggage storage at the station, though free baggage storage is available at the Caen Memorial Museum. The efficient tramway runs right in front of both stations, and taxis usually wait in front. For detailed instructions on getting to the Caen Memorial Museum, see “Getting There” in the next section.
By Bus: Caen is one hour from Honfleur by express bus (2-3/day), or two hours by the scenic coastal bus (4/day direct). Buses stop near the train station.
Caen, the modern capital of lower Normandy, has the most thorough and by far the priciest WWII museum in France. Located at the site of an important German headquarters during World War II, its official name is The Caen-Normandy Memorial: Center for History and Peace (Le Mémorial de Caen-Normandie: Cité de l’Histoire pour la Paix). With two video presentations and numerous exhibits on the lead-up to World War II, coverage of the war in both Europe and the Pacific, accounts of the Holocaust and Nazi-occupied France, the Cold War aftermath, and more, it effectively puts the Battle of Normandy into a broader context.
Cost and Hours: €19, free for all veterans and kids under 10 (ask about family rates). An audioguide (€4) streamlines your visit by providing helpful background for each area of the museum. Open March-Oct daily 9:00-19:00; Nov-Dec and Feb Tue-Sun 9:30-18:00, closed Mon; closed most of Jan; last entry 75 minutes before closing, tel. 02 31 06 06 44—as in June 6, 1944, www.memorial-caen.fr.
Getting There by Taxi: Cabs normally wait in front of the train station and are the easiest solution (about €15 one-way, 15 minutes), particularly if you have bags.
Getting There by Public Transit: Allow 30 minutes for the one-way trip via tram and bus. Take the tram right in front of the station; it’s the first shelter after you leave the train station—do not cross the tram tracks (line A, direction: Campus 2, or line B, direction: St. Clair; buy €1.30 ticket from machine before boarding). Your ticket is good on both tram and bus for one hour; validate it on tram—white side up—and again on the bus when you transfer. Get off at the third tram stop (Bernières), then transfer to frequent bus #2. To reach the bus stop (which is signed from the tram stop), exit the tram, cross the street to the left in front of the tram, and walk 25 feet up Rue de Bernières until you see the bus shelter for #2. For transit maps, see www.twisto.fr.
Returning from the museum by bus and tram is a snap (taxi there and bus/tram back is a good compromise). Bus #2 waits across from the museum on the street’s right side (the museum has the schedule). Buy your ticket from the driver and validate it. The bus whisks you to the Quatrans stop in downtown Caen (follow the stop diagram in the bus as you go), where you’ll transfer to the tram right next to the bus stop—validate your ticket again when you board. Either line A or line B will take you to the station—get off at the Gare SNCF stop.
Services: The museum provides free baggage storage and free supervised babysitting for children under 10 (for whom exhibits may be too graphic). There’s a large gift shop with plenty of books in English, an excellent and reasonable all-day sandwich shop/café above the entry area, and a restaurant with a garden-side terrace (lunch only, located in the Cold War wing). Picnicking in the gardens is also an option.
Minivan Tours: The museum offers good-value minivan tours covering the key sites along the D-Day beaches. Two identical half-day tours leave the museum: one at 9:00 (€64/person) and one at 13:00 or 14:00—depending on the season (€80/person); both include entry to the museum. The all-day “D-Day Tour” package (€114, includes English information book) is designed for day-trippers and includes pick-up from the Caen train station (with frequent service from Paris), a tour of the Caen Memorial Museum followed by lunch, then a five-hour tour in English of the American sector. Your day ends with a drop-off at the Caen train station in time to catch a train back to Paris or elsewhere. Canadians have a similar €114 tour option that will take them to Juno Beach. Contact the museum for details, reservations, and advance payment.
Planning Your Museum Time: Allow a minimum of 2.5 hours for your visit, including 50 minutes for the movies. You could easily spend all day here; in fact, tickets purchased after 13:00 are valid for 24 hours, so you can return the next day. The museum is divided into two major wings: the “World Before 1945” (the lead-up to World War II and the battles and related events of the war), and the “World After 1945” (Cold War, the Berlin Wall, cartoonists on world peace, and so on). Though each wing provides stellar exhibits and great learning, I’d spend most of my time on the “World Before 1945.”
The museum is amazing, but it overwhelms some with its many interesting exhibits (all well-described in English). Limit your visit to the WWII sections and be sure to read the information boards that give a helpful overview of each sub-area. Then feel free to pick and choose which displays to focus on. The audioguide provides similar context to the exhibits.
My recommended plan of attack: Start your visit with the Jour J movie that sets the stage, then tour the WWII sections and finish with the second movie (Espérance).
Self-Guided Tour: Begin by watching Jour J (D-Day), a powerful 15-minute film that shows the build-up to D-Day itself (runs every 30 minutes from 10:00 to 18:00, pick up schedule as you enter, works in any language). Although snippets come from the movie The Longest Day and German army training films, some footage is of actual battle.
On the opposite side of the entry hall from the theater, find Début de la Visite signs and begin your museum tour with a downward-spiral stroll, tracing (almost psychoanalyzing) the path Europe followed from the end of World War I to the rise of fascism to World War II.
The lower level gives a thorough look at how World War II was fought—from General Charles de Gaulle’s London radio broadcasts to Hitler’s early missiles to wartime fashion to the D-Day landings. Videos, maps, and countless displays relate the war’s many side stories, including the Battle of Britain, the French Resistance, Vichy France, German death camps, and the Battle of Stalingrad. To be more comprehensive, the museum has added exhibits about the war in the Pacific as well. Remember to read the information panels in each section, and then be selective about how much detail you want after that. Several powerful exhibits summarize the terrible human costs of World War II (Russia alone saw 21 million of its people die during the war; the US lost 300,000).
A separate exhibit covers just D-Day and the Battle of Normandy—enter on the main level next to the movie theater. Military buffs who expect a huge wing devoted to June 6, 1944, may be disappointed, but there are plenty of other museums in Normandy to satiate their interest (such as the excellent Utah Beach Landing Museum—see here).
After exploring the WWII sections, try to see the second movie (Espérance—“Hope”), a thrilling sweep through the pains and triumphs of the 20th century (hourly, 20 minutes, good in all languages, shown in the main entry hall).
The Cold War wing sets the scene for this era with audio testimonies and photos of European cities destroyed during World War II. It continues with a helpful overview of the bipolar world that followed the war, with fascinating insights into the psychological battle waged by the Soviet Union and the US for the hearts and minds of their people until the fall of communism. The wing culminates with a major display recounting the division of Berlin and its unification after the fall of the Wall.
An exhibit labeled Taches d’Opinion highlights the role of political cartoonists in expressing dissatisfaction with a range of government policies, from military to environmental to human rights issues.
New in 2014 is the restoration of the German General Wilhelm Richter’s command bunker next to the museum. As you tour the underground passages, you’ll see exhibits on the life of German soldiers stationed along the Atlantic Wall. This wing also explores the struggles of the POWs and French citizens who built the fortifications.
The finale is a walk through the US Armed Forces Memorial Garden (Vallée du Mémorial). On a visit here, I was bothered at first by the seemingly mindless laughing of lighthearted children, unable to appreciate the gravity of their surroundings. Then I read this inscription on the pavement: “From the heart of our land flows the blood of our youth, given to you in the name of freedom.” And their laughter made me happy.
For more than a thousand years, the distant silhouette of this island abbey sent pilgrims’ spirits soaring. Today, it does the same for tourists. Mont St-Michel, among the top four pilgrimage sites in Christendom through the ages, floats like a mirage on the horizon. Today, several million visitors—far more tourists than pilgrims—flood the single street of the tiny island each year.
The year 2014 is a momentous one for this timeless abbey. This is the last year for the causeway that for more than 100 years has brought tourists to Mont St-Michel’s front. (It’s supposed to be demolished by 2015—see “The Causeway and Its Demise” sidebar.) At the same time, a restoration of the island’s ramparts may block some island walkways.
Mont St-Michel is surrounded by a vast mudflat and connected to the mainland by a half-mile causeway. Think of the island as having three parts: the fortified abbey soaring above, the petite village squatting in the middle, and the lower-level medieval fortifications. The village has just one main street on which you’ll find all the hotels, restaurants, and trinkets. Between 11:00 and 16:00, tourists trample the dreamscape (much like earnest pilgrims did 800 years ago). A ramble on the ramparts offers mudflat views and an escape from the tourist zone. Though several tacky history-in-wax museums tempt visitors, the only worthwhile sights are the abbey at the summit of the island, and views from the ramparts and quieter lanes as you descend.
Daytime Mont St-Michel is a touristy gauntlet—worth a stop, but a short one will do. Arrive late and depart early. To avoid the tacky souvenir shops and human traffic jam on the main drag, follow the detour path up or down the mount (described on here). The tourist tide recedes late each afternoon. On nights from autumn through spring, the island stands serene, its floodlit abbey towering above a sleepy village. The abbey interior should be open until 23:00 in July and August (Mon-Sat).
The “village” on the mainland side of the causeway (called La Caserne) consists of a lineup of modern hotels and a handful of shops.
An excellent TI with helpful English-speaking staff is in the new wood-and-glass building near the shuttle stop. Find the slick touch-screen monitors describing the various phases of the causeway project (daily 9:00-18:00 except until 20:00 July-Aug). Free WCs and pay baggage lockers are available.
When you arrive on the island, the tiny TI is on your left as you enter Mont St-Michel’s gates. Since it’s so cramped, it’s smart to get your information at the TI near the parking lot. Both TIs have listings of chambres d’hôtes on the mainland, English tour times for the abbey, tour times for walks outside the island, bus schedules, and the tide table (Horaires des Marées), which is essential if you plan to explore the mudflats outside Mont St-Michel (island TI daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, March-June and Sept-Oct 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-17:00; tel. 02 33 60 14 30, www.ot-montsaintmichel.com). A post office (PTT) and ATM are 50 yards beyond the TI.
Prepare for lots of walking, particularly if you arrive by car and are not sleeping on the island or in nearby La Caserne.
By Train: The nearest train station is in Pontorson (called Pontorson-Mont St-Michel). The few trains that stop here are met by a bus waiting to take passengers right to the gates of Mont St-Michel (about €3, 12 buses/day July-Aug, 8/day Sept-June, fewer on Sun, 20 minutes). Taxis between Pontorson and Mont St-Michel get you to the navette (island shuttle) stop and cost about €20 (€30 after 19:00 and on weekends/holidays; tel. 02 33 60 33 23 or 02 33 60 82 70). If you plan to arrive on Saturday night, beware that Sunday train service from Pontorson is almost nonexistent.
By Bus: Buses from Rennes and St-Malo stop next to the navette stop at the parking lot (for details, see “Mont St-Michel Connections” at the end of this chapter). From Bayeux, it’s faster to arrive on Hôtel Churchill’s minivan shuttle (see here).
By Car: If you’re staying at a hotel on the island, follow signs for La Caserne and enter the gated hotel parking area—call your hotel ahead of time for the code. Those staying in La Caserne can drive right to their hotel, but you need a code number to open a gate blocking the access road (€12 access fee; get code and directions from your hotelier).
Day-trippers are directed to a sea of parking. The layout is confusing; follow the parking signs with a car icon. Take your parking ticket and pay at the machines near the TI when you leave (€12 flat fee, good for 24 hours, no re-entry privileges—if you leave and return on the same day, you’ll pay another €12, machines accept cash and US credit cards, parking tel. 02 14 13 20 00).
From the remote parking lot or La Caserne village, you can either walk to the island, or take the short ride on the free shuttle (departures every few minutes). You can also ride in the horse-drawn maringote (double-decker wagon, €5).
Tides: The tides here rise above 50 feet—the largest and most dangerous in Europe, and second in the world after the Bay of Fundy between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Canada. High tides (grandes marées) lap against the TI door (where you’ll find tide hours posted).
Internet and Groceries: The industrious Hôtel Vert, located in La Caserne, has a guest computer, Wi-Fi, a 24-hour grocery store, and rooms for rent (hotel described under “Sleeping in Mont St-Michel,” later).
Taxi: Call 02 33 60 33 23, 02 33 60 26 89, or 06 07 96 50 36.
Guided Tours: Several top-notch guides can lead you through the abbey’s complex history. The best are found in Bayeux, a good base for a day trip to Mont St-Michel. Westcapades provides transportation from St-Malo with minimal commentary (tel. 02 96 39 79 52, www.westcapades.com, marc@westcapades.com; see here).
Guided Walks: The TI may offer guided walks of the village below the abbey (ask ahead). They also have information on inexpensive guided walks across the bay (with some English). La Traversée Traditionelle traces the footsteps of pilgrims, starting across the bay at Le Bec d’Andaine and walking over the mudflat to Mont St-Michel (verify that the guide speaks some English, daily April-Oct, fewer off-season, times depend on tides; €6.50, reservations recommended, 4 miles—or 1.75 hours—each way, round-trip takes 4.5 hours, including one hour on Mont St-Michel; ask at TI or call 02 33 89 80 88, www.cheminsdelabaie.com). For a tour within the abbey itself, see my self-guided tour on here.
Crowd-Beating Tips: If you’re staying overnight, arrive after 16:00 and leave by 11:00 to avoid the worst crowds. The island’s main drag is wall-to-wall people from 11:00 to 16:00. Bypass this mess by following this book’s suggested walking routes (under “Sights in Mont St-Michel”); the gendarmerie shortcut works best if you want to avoid both crowds and stairs.
Best Light: Because Mont St-Michel faces southwest, morning light from the causeway is eye-popping. Take a memorable walk before breakfast. And don’t miss the illuminated island after dark (also best from the causeway).
These sights are listed in the order by which you approach them from the mainland.
The vast Bay of Mont St-Michel has long played a key role. Since the sixth century, hermit-monks in search of solitude lived here. The word “hermit” comes from an ancient Greek word meaning “desert.” The next best thing to a desert in this part of Europe was the sea. Imagine the desert this bay provided as the first monk climbed the rock to get close to God. Add to that the mythic tide, which sends the surf speeding eight miles in and out with each tide cycle. Long before the causeway was built, when Mont St-Michel was an island, pilgrims would approach across the mudflat, aware that the tide swept in “at the speed of a galloping horse” (well, maybe a trotting horse—12 mph, or about 18 feet per second at top speed).
Quicksand was another peril. A short stroll onto the sticky sand helps you imagine how easy it would be to get one or both feet stuck as the tide rolled in. The greater danger for adventurers today is the thoroughly disorienting fog and the fact that the sea can encircle unwary hikers. (Bring a mobile phone.) Braving these devilish risks for centuries, pilgrims kept their eyes on the spire crowned by their protector, St. Michael, and eventually reached their spiritual goal.
To resurrect that Mont St-Michel dreamscape and evade all those tacky tourist stalls, you can walk out on the mudflats around the island (to reach the mudflats, pass through the gendarmerie, a former guard station, on the left side of the island as you face it). Take your shoes off and walk barefoot (handy faucets are available on your way back by the gendarmerie). At low tide, it’s reasonably dry and a great memory-maker. But this can be hazardous, so don’t go alone, don’t stray far, and be sure to double-check the tides—or consider a guided walk (described under “Helpful Hints,” earlier). Remember the scene from the Bayeux tapestry where Harold rescues Normans from the quicksand? It happened somewhere in this bay.
Visitors usually enter the island through a stone arch at the lower left. However, during very high tides, you’ll enter through the door in the central tower. The island’s main street (Rue Principale, or “Grande Rue”), lined with shops and hotels leading to the abbey, is grotesquely touristy. It is some consolation to remember that, even in the Middle Ages, this was a commercial gauntlet, with stalls selling souvenir medallions, candles, and fast food. With only 30 full-time residents, the village lives solely for tourists. If crowds stick in your craw, keep left as you enter the island, passing under the stone arch of the gendarmerie, and follow the cobbled ramp up to the abbey. This is also the easiest route up, thanks to the long ramps, which help you avoid most stairs. (Others should follow the directions below, which still avoid most crowds.)
After visiting the TI, check the tide warnings posted on the wall and pass through the imposing doors. Before the drawbridge, on your left, peek through the door of Restaurant la Mère Poulard. The original Madame Poulard (the maid of an abbey architect who married the village baker) made quick and tasty omelets here (omelette tradition). These were popular for pilgrims, who, in pre-causeway days, needed to beat the tide to get out. They’re still a hit with tourists—even at the rip-off price they charge today (they’re much cheaper elsewhere). Pop in for a minute, just to enjoy the show as old-time-costumed cooks beat eggs.
You could continue the grueling trudge uphill to the abbey with the masses (all island hotel receptions are located on this street). But if the abbey’s your goal, bypass the worst crowds and tourist kitsch by climbing the first steps on your right after the drawbridge and following the ramparts in either direction up and up to the abbey (quieter if you go right; ramparts described on here). I’d go up one way and return down the other (rampart restoration project may cause minor detours).
Public WCs are next to the island TI at the town entry, partway up the main drag, and at the abbey entrance. You can attend Mass at the tiny St. Pierre Church (times posted on the door), opposite Les Terrasses Poulard gift shop.
Mont St-Michel has been an important pilgrimage center since A.D. 708, when the bishop of Avranches heard the voice of Archangel Michael saying, “Build here and build high.” With the foresight of a saint, Michael reassured the bishop, “If you build it...they will come.” Today’s abbey is built on the remains of a Romanesque church, which stands on the remains of a Carolingian church. St. Michael, whose gilded statue decorates the top of the spire, was the patron saint of many French kings, making this a favored site for French royalty through the ages. St. Michael was particularly popular in Counter-Reformation times, as the Church employed his warlike image in the fight against Protestant heresy.
This abbey has 1,200 years of history, though much of its story was lost when its archives were taken to St-Lô for safety during World War II—only to be destroyed during the D-Day fighting. As you climb the stairs, imagine the centuries of pilgrims and monks who have worn down the edges of these same stone steps. Keep to the right, as tour groups can clog the left side of the steps.
Cost and Hours: €9; May-June daily 9:00-19:00; July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-23:00, Sun 9:00-19:00; Sept-April daily 9:30-18:00; closed Dec 25, Jan 1, and May 1; last entry one hour before closing (www.mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr/en). Buy your ticket to the abbey and keep climbing. Mass is held Mon-Sat at 12:00, Sun at 11:15, in the abbey church (www.abbaye-montsaintmichel.com).
Visiting the Abbey: Allow 20 minutes to hike at a steady pace from the island TI. To avoid crowds, arrive by 10:00 or after 16:00 (the place gets really busy by 11:00). In summer evenings, when the abbey is open until 23:00 and crowds are gone, visits come with music and mood lighting (€9), called Ballades Nocturnes. It’s worth paying a second admission to see the abbey so peaceful (nighttime program starts at 19:00; daytime tickets aren’t valid for re-entry, but you can visit before 19:00 and stay on).
Tours: There are no English explanations in the abbey. My self-guided tour below works for most, though the excellent audioguide gives greater detail (€4.50, €6/2 people). You can also take a 1.25-hour English-language guided tour (free but tip requested, 2-4 tours/day, first and last tours usually around 10:00 and 15:00, confirm times at TI, meet at top terrace in front of church). The guided tours, which can be good, come with big crowds. You can start a tour, then decide if it works for you—but I’d skip it, instead following my directions below.
Self-Guided Tour: Visit the abbey by following a one-way route. You’ll climb to the ticket office, then climb some more. Stop after you pass a public WC, and look back to the church. That boxy Gothic structure across the steps is one of six cisterns that provided the abbey with water. Inside the room marked Accueil you’ll find interesting models of the abbey through the ages.
• Find your way to the big terrace, walk to the round lookout at the far end, and face the church.
West Terrace: In 1776, a fire destroyed the west end of the church, leaving this grand view terrace. The original extent of the church is outlined with short walls (as well as the stonecutter numbers, generally not exposed like this—a reminder that they were paid by the piece). The buildings of Mont St-Michel are made of granite stones quarried from the Isles of Chausey (visible on a clear day, 20 miles away). Tidal power was ingeniously harnessed to load, unload, and even transport the stones, as barges hitched a ride with each incoming tide.
As you survey the Bay of Mont St-Michel, notice the polder land—farmland reclaimed by Normans in the 19th century with the help of Dutch engineers. The lines of trees mark strips of land used in the process. Today, this reclaimed land is covered by salt-loving plants and grazed by sheep whose salty meat is considered a local treat. You’re standing 240 feet above sea level, at the summit of what was an island called “the big tomb.” The small island just farther out is “the little tomb.”
The bay stretches from Normandy (on the right as you look to the sea) to Brittany (on the left). The Couesnon River below marks the historic border between the two lands. Brittany and Normandy have long vied for Mont St-Michel. In fact, the river used to pass Mont St-Michel on the other side, making the abbey part of Brittany. Today, it’s just barely—but definitively—on Norman soil. The new dam across this river (easy to see from here—it looks like a bridge when its gates are open) was built in 2010. Central to the dam is a system of locking gates that retain water upriver during high tide and release it six hours later, in effect flushing the bay and returning it to a mudflat at low tide (see “The Causeway and Its Demise” sidebar on here). Walk toward the sea side of the terrace, and look down at the gardens below (where this tour will end).
• Now enter the...
Abbey Church: Sit on a pew near the altar, under the little statue of the Archangel Michael (with the spear to defeat dragons and evil, and the scales to evaluate your soul). Monks built the church on the tip of this rock to be as close to heaven as possible. The downside: There wasn’t enough level ground to support a sizable abbey and church. The solution: Four immense crypts were built under the church to create a platform to support each of its wings. While most of the church is Romanesque (round arches, 11th century), the light-filled apse behind the altar was built later, when Gothic arches were the rage. In 1421, the crypt that supported the apse collapsed, taking that end of the church with it. Few of the original windows survive (victims of fires, storms, lightning, and the Revolution).
In the chapel to the right of the altar stands a grim-looking statue of the man with the vision to build the abbey (St. Aubert). Take a spin around the apse, and find the suspended pirate-looking ship and the glass-covered manhole (you’ll see it again later from another angle).
• After the church, enter the...
Cloisters: A standard feature of an abbey, this was the peaceful zone that connected various rooms, where monks could meditate, read the Bible, and tend their gardens (growing food and herbs for medicine). The great view window is enjoyable today (what’s the tide doing?), but it was of no use to the monks. The more secluded a monk could be, the closer he was to God. (A cloister, by definition, is an enclosed place.) Notice how the columns are staggered. This efficient design allowed the cloisters to be supported with less building material (a top priority, given the difficulty of transporting stone this high up). The carvings above the columns feature various plants and heighten the Garden-of-Eden ambience the cloister offered the monks. The statues of various saints, carved among some columns, were de-faced—literally—by French revolutionaries.
• Continue on to the...
Refectory: This was the dining hall where the monks consumed both food and the word of God in silence—one monk read in a monotone from the Bible during meals (pulpit on the right near the far end). The monks gathered as a family here in one undivided space under one big arch (an impressive engineering feat in its day). The abbot ate at the head table; guests sat at the table in the middle. The clever columns are thin but very deep, allowing maximum light while offering solid support. From 966 until 2001, this was a Benedictine abbey. In 2001, the last three Benedictine monks checked out, and a new order of monks from Paris took over.
• Stairs lead down one flight to a...
Round Stone Relief Sculpture of St. Michael: This scene depicts the legend of Mont St-Michel: The archangel Michael wanted to commemorate a hard-fought victory over the devil with the construction of a monumental abbey on a nearby island. He chose to send his message to the bishop of Avranches (St. Aubert), who saw Michael twice in his dreams. But the bishop did not trust his dreams until the third time, when Michael drove his thumb into the bishop’s head, leaving a mark that he could not deny.
• Continue down the stairs another flight to the...
Guests’ Hall: St. Benedict wrote that guests should be welcomed according to their status. That meant that when kings (or other VIPs) visited, they were wined and dined without a hint of monastic austerity. This room once exploded in color, with gold stars on a blue sky across the ceiling. (The painting of this room was said to be the model for Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.) The floor was composed of glazed red-and-green tiles. The entire space was bathed in glorious sunlight, made divine as it passed through a filter of stained glass. The big double fireplace, kept out of sight by hanging tapestries, served as a kitchen—walk under it and see the light.
• Hike the stairs through a chapel to the...
Hall of the Grand Pillars: Perched on a pointy rock, the huge abbey church had four sturdy crypts like this to prop it up. You’re standing under the Gothic portion of the abbey church—this was the crypt that collapsed in 1421. Notice the immensity of the columns (15 feet around) in the new crypt, rebuilt with a determination not to let it fall again. Now look up at the round hole in the ceiling and recognize it as the glass manhole cover from the church altar above.
• To see what kind of crypt collapsed, walk on to the...
Crypt of St. Martin: This simple 11th-century Romanesque vault has minimal openings, since the walls needed to be solid and fat to support the buildings above. As you leave, notice the thickness of the walls.
• Next, you’ll find the...
Ossuary (identifiable by its big treadwheel): The monks celebrated death as well as life. This part of the abbey housed the hospital, morgue, and ossuary. Because the abbey graveyard was small, it was routinely emptied, and the bones were stacked here.
During the Revolution, monasticism was abolished. Church property was taken by the atheistic government, and from 1793 to 1863, Mont St-Michel was used as an Alcatraz-type prison. Its first inmates were 300 priests who refused to renounce their vows. (Victor Hugo complained that using such a place as a prison was like keeping a toad in a reliquary.) The big treadwheel—the kind that did heavy lifting for big building projects throughout the Middle Ages—is from the decades when the abbey was a prison. Teams of six prisoners marched two abreast in the wheel—hamster-style—powering two-ton loads of stone and supplies up Mont St-Michel. Spin the rollers of the sled next to the wheel.
Finish your visit by walking through the Promenade of the Monks, under more Gothic vaults, and into the vast Scriptorium Hall (a.k.a. Knights Hall), where monks decorated illuminated manuscripts. You’ll then spiral down to the gift shop, turn right, and follow signs to the Jardin. The room after the shop holds temporary exhibits related to Mont St-Michel.
• Exit the room and walk out into the rear garden. From here, look up at the miracle of medieval engineering.
The “Merveille”: This was an immense building project—a marvel back in 1220. Three levels of buildings were created: the lower floor for the lower class, the middle floor for VIPs, and the top floor for the clergy. It was a medieval skyscraper, built with the social strata in mind. The vision was even grander—the place where you’re standing was to be built up in similar fashion, to support a further expansion of the church. But the money ran out, and the project was abandoned. As you leave the garden, notice the tall narrow windows of the refectory on the top floor.
• Stairs lead from here back into the village. To avoid the crowds on your descent, turn right when you see the knee-high sign for Musée Historique and find your own route down or, at the same place, follow the Chemin des Ramparts to the left and hike down via the...
Ramparts: Mont St-Michel is ringed by a fine example of 15th-century fortifications. They were built to defend against a new weapon: the cannon. They were low, rather than tall—to make a smaller target—and connected by protected passageways, which enabled soldiers to zip quickly to whichever zone was under attack. The five-sided Boucle Tower (1481, see map on here) was crafted with no blind angles, so defenders could protect it and the nearby walls in all directions. And though the English conquered all of Normandy in the early 15th century, they never took this well-fortified island. Because of its stubborn success against the English in the Hundred Years’ War, Mont St-Michel became a symbol of French national identity.
After dark, the island is magically floodlit. Views from the ramparts are sublime. For the best view, exit the island and walk out on the causeway a few hundred yards.
Located three miles from Mont St-Michel, near tiny Huisnes-sur-Mer (well-signed east of Mont St-Michel, off D-275), this somber but thoughtfully presented cemetery-mortuary houses the remains of 12,000 German WWII soldiers brought to this location from all over France. (The stone blocks on the steps up indicate the regions in France from where they came.) A display of letters they sent home (with English translations) offers insights into the soldiers’ lives. From the lookout, take in the sensational views over Mont St-Michel.
Sleep on or near the island so that you can visit Mont St-Michel early and late. What matters is being here before or after the crush of tourists. Sleeping on the island—inside the walls—is a great experience for medieval romantics who don’t mind the headaches associated with spending a night here, including average rooms and baggage hassles. To reach a room on the island, you’ll need to carry your bags 10 minutes uphill from the navette (shuttle) stop. Take only what you need for one night in a smaller bag, but don’t leave any luggage visible in your car.
Hotels near the island in La Caserne are a good deal cheaper and require less walking—you can park right at your hotel. All are a short walk from the free and frequent shuttle to the island, allowing easy access at any time.
There are eight small hotels on the island, and because most visitors day-trip here, finding a room is generally no problem (but finding an elevator is). Though some pad their profits by requesting that guests buy dinner from their restaurant, requiring it is illegal. Higher-priced rooms generally have bay views. Several hotels are closed from November until Easter.
The following hotels are listed in order of altitude; the first hotels are lowest.
$$$ Hôtel St. Pierre*** and Hôtel Croix Blanche***, which share the same owners and reception desk, sit side by side (reception at St. Pierre). Each provides comfortable rooms at inflated prices, some with good views. Both have several family loft rooms (non-view Db-€170-190, view Db-€210-225, Tb or Qb-€220-280; lower rates are for Hôtel Croix Blanche, higher rates for Hôtel St. Pierre; breakfast-€15, guest computer, Wi-Fi, tel. 02 33 60 14 03, www.auberge-saint-pierre.fr, contact@auberge-saint-pierre.fr).
$$$ Hôtel le Mouton Blanc** delivers a fair midrange value, with 15 rooms split between two buildings. The main building (bâtiment principal) is best, with cozy rooms, wood beams, and decent bathrooms; the more modern “annex” has cramped bathrooms (Db-€145, loft Tb-€160, loft Qb-€195, tel. 02 33 60 14 08, www.lemoutonblanc.fr, contact@lemoutonblanc.fr).
$$$ Hôtel la Vieille Auberge** is a small place with sharp rooms at fair prices (Db-€120, Tb/Qb-€150-160; spring for one of the four great terrace rooms—Db-€150, Tb-€165; breakfast-€15, check in at their restaurant, but book through Hôtel St. Pierre, listed above).
$$ Hôtel du Guesclin** has the cheapest and best-value rooms I list on the island and is the only family-run hotel left there. Rooms have traditional decor and are perfectly comfortable. Check in at reception one floor up; if no one’s there, try the bar on the main-street level (Db-€78-93, Tb-€93-103, breakfast-€9, Wi-Fi, tel. 02 33 60 14 10, www.hotelduguesclin.com, hotel.duguesclin@wanadoo.fr).
Modern hotels gather in La Caserne on the mainland. These have soulless but cheaper rooms with easy parking and many tour groups. Remember to call at least a day ahead to get the code allowing you to skip the parking lot and drive to your hotel’s front door.
$$$ Hôtel le Relais du Roy*** houses tight but well-configured and plush rooms with small balconies allowing “lean-out” views to the abbey. Most rooms are on the river side and have nice countryside views (Db-€92-105, Wi-Fi, bar, restaurant, tel. 02 33 60 14 25, www.le-relais-du-roy.com, reservation@le-relais-du-roy.com).
$$ Hôtel Vert** and Hôtel Formule Verte**, located across the street from each other, are run by the same company. Both provide motel-esque rooms with Wi-Fi at good rates. Hôtel Vert is a step up in comfort (Db-€64-82, Tb-€78-90, Qb-€95-115, tel. 02 33 60 09 33); Hôtel Formule Verte is modern and simple (Db-€50-66, Tb-€64-82, Qb-€80-99, tel. 02 33 60 14 13). The hotels share the same website and email address (www.le-mont-saint-michel.com, stmichel@le-mont-saint-michel.com).
Simply great values, these converted farmhouses are a few minutes’ drive from the island.
$$ Les Vieilles Digues, where charming, English-speaking Danielle and Kim will pamper you, is two miles toward Pontorson on the main road (on the left if you’re coming from Mont St-Michel). It has a lovely garden and seven nicely furnished and homey rooms with subtle Asian touches, all with showers (but no Mont St-Michel views). Ground-floor rooms have patios on the garden (D-€75, Db-€80, Tb-€100, includes good breakfast, easy parking—and you can walk to the free shuttle at the main parking lot, Wi-Fi, 68 Route du Mont St-Michel, tel. 02 33 58 55 30, www.bnb-normandy.com, danielle.tchen@wanadoo.fr).
$$ La Jacotière is closest to Mont St-Michel and within walking distance of the regional bus stop and the shuttle (allowing you to avoid the €12 fee to park). This place may be sold by 2014, so expect some changes to the information I’ve given here. There are six immaculate rooms and views of the island from the backyard (Db-€70, studio with great view from private patio-€70, extra bed-€20, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, tel. 02 33 60 22 94, www.lajacotiere.fr, la.jacotiere@wanadoo.fr). Drivers coming from Bayeux should turn off the road just prior to the main parking lot. As the road bends to the left away from the bay, look for a regional-products store standing alone on the right. Take the small lane in front of the store signed sauf véhicule autorisé—La Jacotière is the next building.
$ Vent des Grèves is about a mile down D-275 from Mont St-Michel (green sign; if arriving from the north, it’s just after Auberge de la Baie). Sweet Estelle (who speaks English) offers five bright, big, and modern rooms with good views of Mont St-Michel and a common deck with tables to let you soak it all in (Sb-€40, Db-€50, Tb-€60, Qb-€70, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, tel. 02 33 48 28 89, www.ventdesgreves.com, ventdesgreves@orange.fr).
Puffy omelets (omelette montoise, or omelette tradition) are Mont St-Michel’s specialty. Also look for mussels (best with crème fraîche), seafood platters, and locally raised lamb (a saltwater-grass diet gives the meat a unique taste, but beware of impostor lamb from New Zealand—ask where your dinner was raised). Muscadet wine (dry, white, and cheap) is the local wine and goes well with most regional dishes.
The menus at most of the island’s restaurants look like carbon copies of one another (with menus from €18 to €28, cheap crêpes, and full à la carte choices). Some places have better views or more appealing decor, and a few have outdoor seating with views along the ramparts walk—ideal when it’s sunny. If it’s too cool to sit outside, window-shop the places that face the bay from the ramparts walk and arrive early to land a bay-view table. Unless noted otherwise, the listed restaurants are open daily for lunch and dinner.
La Sirene Crêperie offers a good island value and a cozy interior (€9 main-course crêpes, open daily for lunch, open for dinner only in summer, enter through gift shop across from Hôtel St. Pierre, tel. 02 33 60 08 60).
Hôtel du Guesclin is the top place for a traditional meal, with white tablecloths and beautiful views of the bay from its inside-only tables (book a window table in advance; see details under “Sleeping in Mont St-Michel—On the Island,” earlier).
Restaurant le St. Michel is lighthearted, reasonable, family-friendly, and run by helpful Patricia (decent omelets, mussels, salads, and pasta; open daily for lunch only, may be open for dinner in summer, test its stone toilet, across from Hôtel le Mouton Blanc, tel. 02 33 60 14 37).
Chez Mado is a stylish three-story café-crêperie-restaurant one door up from Hôtel le Mouton Blanc. It’s worth considering for its upstairs terrace, which offers the best outside table views up to the abbey (when their umbrellas don’t block it). La Vieille Auberge has a broad terrace with the next-best views to the abbey and, so far, no big umbrellas. La Croix Blanche owns a small deck with abbey views and window-front tables with bay views, and Les Terrasses Poulard has indoor views to the bay.
Picnics: This is the romantic’s choice. The small lanes above the main street hide scenic picnic spots, such as the small park at the base of the ancient treadwheel ramp to the upper abbey. You’ll catch late sun by following the ramp that leads you through the gendarmerie and down behind the island (on the left as you face the main entry to the island). Sandwiches, pizza by the slice, salads, and drinks are all available to go at shops along the main drag. But you’ll find a better selection at the modest supermarket located on the mainland (see “Helpful Hints” on here).
Bus and train service to Mont St-Michel is a challenge. Depending on where you’re coming from, you may find that you’re forced to arrive and depart early or late—leaving you with too much or too little time on the island.
From Mont St-Michel to Paris: There are several ways to get to Paris. Most travelers take the regional bus from Mont St-Michel to Rennes or Dol-de-Bretagne and connect directly to the TGV (4/day via Rennes, 1/day via Dol-de-Bretagne, 4 hours total via either route from Mont St-Michel to Paris’ Gare Montparnasse; €12.40 for bus to Rennes, €6.40 for bus to Dol-de-Bretagne; not covered by railpass, buy ticket from driver, all explained in English at www.destination-montsaintmichel.com). You can also take the 20-minute bus ride to Pontorson (see next) and catch one of a very few trains from there (3/day, 5.5 hours, transfer in Caen, St-Malo, or Rennes).
From Mont St-Michel to Pontorson: The nearest train station to Mont St-Michel is five miles away, in Pontorson (called Pontorson/Mont St-Michel). It’s connected to Mont St-Michel by a 20-minute bus ride (12/day July-Aug, 9/day Sept-June, tel. 02 14 13 20 15, www.accueilmontsaintmichel.com) or by taxi (€20, €30 at night and on weekends, tel. 02 33 60 33 23 or 02 33 60 82 70).
From Pontorson by Train to: Bayeux (2-3/day, 2 hours; also see Hôtel Churchill’s shuttle van service—here); Rouen (2/day via Caen, 4 hours; 4/day via Paris, 7 hours); Dinan (3/day, 1.5-2.5 hours, transfer in Dol-de-Bretagne); St-Malo (2/day, 1-2 hours, transfer in Dol-de-Bretagne); Amboise (2-3/day; 5.5-7.5 hours via transfers in Caen and Tours, or via multiple transfers through Paris).
From Mont St-Michel by Bus to: St-Malo (1/day direct usually at 15:45, 1.25 hours, runs July-Aug daily, April-June and Sept-Oct Tue-Sat only, less off-season, must pay €20 round-trip fare even if only going one way, buy ticket from driver); Rennes (4/day direct, 1.75 hours). Keolis buses provide service to St-Malo and Rennes (tel. 02 99 19 70 70, www.keolis-emeraude.com/en).
Taxis are more expensive, but are helpful when trains and buses don’t cooperate. Figure €90 from Mont St-Michel to St-Malo, and €100 to Dinan (50 percent more on Sun and at night).
From Mont St-Michel to St-Malo, Brittany: The direct (and free) freeway route takes 40 minutes. For a scenic drive into Brittany, take the following route: Head to Pontorson, follow D-19 signs to St-Malo, then look for St. Malo par la Côte and join D-797, which leads along La Route de la Baie to D-155 and on to the oyster capital of Cancale. In Cancale, keep tracking St. Malo par la Côte and Route de la Baie signs. You’ll be routed through the town’s port (good lunch stop), then emerge on D-201. Take time to savor Pointe du Grouin, then continue west on D-201 as it hugs the coast to St-Malo (see here in Brittany chapter). If continuing on to Dinan: From St-Malo, signs direct you to Rennes, then Dinan. This drive adds about 2.5 hours (with stops; takes longer on weekends and in summer) to the fastest path between Mont St-Michel and Dinan, but is well worth it when skies are clear. For more details on this drive, see “Scenic Drive Between St-Malo and Mont St-Michel” on here of the Brittany chapter.
From Mont St-Michel to Bayeux: Take the free and zippy A-84 toward Caen, exit at Villers-Bocage, then follow signs to Bayeux.
