Dinan • St-Malo
The bulky peninsula of Brittany (“Bretagne” in French; “Breizh” in Breton) is windswept and rugged, with a well-discovered coast, a forgotten interior, strong Celtic ties, and a craving for crêpes. This region of independent-minded locals is linguistically and culturally different from Normandy—and, for that matter, the rest of France. The Couesnon River skirts the western edge of Mont St-Michel, marking the border between Normandy and Brittany. Tradition is everything here, where farmers and fishermen still play a big part in the region’s economy.
In 1491, the French King Charles VIII forced Brittany’s 14-year-old Duchess Anne to marry him (at Château de Langeais in the Loire Valley). Their union made feisty, independent Brittany a small, unhappy cog in a big country (the Kingdom of France). Brittany lost its freedom but, with Anne as queen, gained certain rights, such as free roads. (Even today, more than 500 years later, Brittany’s highways come with no tolls, which is unique in France.)
Locals take great pride in their distinct Breton culture. In Brittany, music stores sell more Celtic albums than anything else. It’s hard to imagine that this music was forbidden as recently as the 1980s. During that repressive time, many of today’s Breton pop stars were underground artists. And not long ago, a child would lose French citizenship if christened with a Celtic name.
But the freckled locals are now free to wave their black-and-white-striped flag, sing their songs, and parler their language (there’s a Breton TV station and radio station). Look for Breizh bumper stickers and flags touting the region’s Breton name. Like their Irish counterparts, Bretons—many with red hair—are chatty, their music is alive with stories of struggles against an oppressor, and their identities are intrinsically tied to the sea.
With one full day, spend the morning in Dinan and the afternoon either along the Rance River (walking or biking are best, but driving works) or along Brittany’s wild coast, where you can tour Fort la Latte and enjoy the massive views between Sable-d’Or-les-Pins and Cap Fréhel. Try to find a few hours for St-Malo—ideally when connecting Mont St-Michel with Brittany. The coastal route between Mont St-Michel and St-Malo—via the town of Cancale (famous for oysters and a good place for lunch), with a stop at Pointe du Grouin (fabulous ocean views)—gives travelers with limited time a worthwhile glimpse at this photogenic province.
By Car: This is the ideal way to scour the ragged coast and watery towns. Autoroutes are free, and the traffic is generally negligible (except in summer along the coast).
By Train and Bus: Trains provide barely enough service to Dinan and St-Malo (on Sun, service all but disappears). Key transfer points by train include the big city of Rennes and the small town of Dol-de-Bretagne. Some trips are more convenient by bus (including Rennes to Dinan and Dinan to St-Malo).
By Minivan Tour: Westcapades runs daylong minivan tours covering Dinan, St-Malo, and Mont St-Michel. Designed for day-trippers from Paris, the tours leave from St-Malo or Rennes. While flexible, these tours are light on information. You can get off at Mont St-Michel (described in the Normandy chapter)—making this tour a convenient way to reach that remote island abbey (€85/day, tel. 02 23 23 01 96, www.westcapades.com, marc@westcapades.com). A different tour option starts at the Rennes TGV Station, includes Mont St-Michel and key parts of the D-Day beaches, and ends at the train station in either Bayeux or Caen.
Another small tour company, Afoot in France, provides multiday tours in Brittany and Normandy for small groups or individuals. This service is ideal for people who’d like to have a local tour guide as their personal driver (tel. 02 23 10 17 57, www.afootinfrance.com, afootinfrance@gmail.com). Both of its guides also lead tours for my company.
Though the endless coastline suggests otherwise, there is more than seafood in this rugged Celtic land. Crêpes are to Bretons what pasta is to Italians: a basic, reasonably priced, daily necessity. Galettes are savory buckwheat crêpes, commonly filled with ham, cheese, eggs, mushrooms, spinach, seafood, or a combination. Purists insist that a galette should not have more than three or four fillings—overfilling it masks the flavor (which is the point in certain places). Here, the word “crêpe”is used generically to mean a dessert.
Oysters (huîtres), the second food of Brittany, are available all year. Mussels, clams, and scallops are often served as main courses, and you can also find galettes with scallops and moules marinières (mussels steamed in white wine, parsley, and shallots). Farmers compete with fishermen for the hearts of locals by growing fresh vegetables, such as peas, beans, and cauliflower.
For dessert, look for far breton, a traditional custard often served with prunes. Dessert crêpes, made with white flour, come with a variety of toppings. Or try kouign amann, a puffy, caramelized Breton cake made with buckwheat dough (in Breton, kouign means “cake” and amann means “butter”). At bakeries, look for ker-y-pom, traditional Breton shortbread biscuits with butter, honey, and apple-pie fillings.
Cider is the locally produced drink. Order une bolée de cidre (a traditional bowl of hard apple cider) with your crêpes. Breton beer is strong and delicious; try anything local (Sant Erwann is my favorite).
Remember, restaurants serve food only during lunch (11:30-14:00) and dinner (19:00-21:00, later in bigger cities); cafés offer food throughout the day.
If you have time for only one stop in Brittany, do Dinan. Hefty ramparts corral its half-timbered and cobbled quaintness into Brittany’s best medieval town center. And though it has a touristy icing—plenty of crêperies, shops selling Brittany kitsch, and colorful flags—it’s a workaday Breton town filled with about 10,000 people who appreciate the beautiful place they call home. This impeccably preserved ancient city, which escaped the bombs of World War II, is peaceful and conveniently located (about a 45-minute drive from Mont St-Michel). For a memorable day, spend your morning exploring Dinan and your afternoon walking, biking, or boating the Rance River.
Dinan’s old city, wrapped in its medieval ramparts, gathers on a hill well above the Rance River. Cobbled lanes climb steeply from Dinan’s small river port to the vast Place du Guesclin (gek-lahn). There you’ll find lots of parking, Château de Dinan, and the TI. Place des Merciers, just north of Place du Guesclin, is the center of most shopping activities.
At the TI, pick up a free map and bus and train schedules, ask about boat trips on the Rance River, and check your email (July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:30-19:00, Sun 10:00-12:30 & 14:30-18:00; Sept-June Mon-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun; just off Place du Guesclin near Château de Dinan at 9 Rue du Château, tel. 02 96 87 69 76, www.dinan-tourisme.com).
By Train: To get to the town center from Dinan’s Old World train station (no lockers or baggage storage), find a taxi (see “Helpful Hints,” below) or walk 20 steady minutes (see map on here). If walking, head left out of the train station, make a right at Hôtel de la Gare up Rue Carnot, turn right on Rue Thiers following Centre-Ville signs, and go left across big Place Duclos-Pinot, passing just left of Café de la Mairie. To reach the TI and Place du Guesclin, go to the right of the café (on Rue du Marchix).
By Bus: Dinan’s key intercity bus stop is in front of the post office on Place Duclos-Pinot, 10 minutes above the train station and five minutes below Place du Guesclin. To reach the historic core, cross the square, passing to the left of Café de la Mairie (for more bus information, see “Dinan Connections,” later).
By Car: Dinan confuses drivers. Slow down, and expect to pay for most street parking. Follow Centre-Ville signs and park on Place du Guesclin (free parking 19:00-9:00 except July-Sept and on market days on Thu). If you enter Dinan near the train station, drive the route described above (see “By Train”), and keep to the right of Café de la Mairie to reach Place du Guesclin. Check with your hotelier before leaving your car overnight on Place du Guesclin; it will be towed before 8:00 on market or festival days.
Market Days: On Thursday, a big open-air market is held on Place du Guesclin (8:00-13:00). In July and August, Wednesday is flea-market day on Place St. Sauveur.
Internet Access: The TI has computers (small fee) and Wi-Fi.
Laundry: There’s a self-serve launderette a few blocks from Place Duclos-Pinot at 19 Rue de Brest (daily 7:00-21:00).
Supermarkets: Groceries are upstairs in the Monoprix (Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00, in summer also open Sun 9:00-13:00, 7 Rue du Marchix). Or try Carrefour City on Place Duclos-Pinot (Mon-Sat 7:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-13:00).
Bike Rental: The TI has up-to-date information on bike-rental places. Try to rent your bike at the port, to avoid riding down and back up a big hill.
Taxi: Call 06 08 00 80 90 (www.taxi-dinan.com). Figure about €50-60 to St-Malo and €100 to Mont St-Michel.
Tourist Train: This petit train runs a circuit connecting the port and upper old town (€6, runs every 40 minutes, leaves in the old town from in front of the Théâtre des Jacobins, a block off Place du Guesclin).
Picnic Park: The small but flowery Jardin Anglais hides behind the Church of St. Sauveur.
Frankly, I wouldn’t go through a turnstile in Dinan. The attraction is the town itself. Enjoy the old town center, ramble around the ramparts, and explore the old riverfront harbor. Here are some ideas, laced together as a relaxed one-hour walk (not including exploring the port). Start near the TI, and as you wander, notice the pride locals take in their Breton culture.
• Start in the center of Place du Guesclin, and find the statue of the horseback rider.
Place du Guesclin: This sprawling town square/parking lot is named after Bertrand du Guesclin, a native 14th-century knight and hero (described as small in stature but big-hearted) who became a great French military leader, famous for his daring victories over England during the Hundred Years’ War (like Joan of Arc, he was a key player in defeating the English). On this very square, he beat Sir Thomas of Canterbury in a nail-biter of a joust that locals still talk about to this day. The victory freed his brother, whom Thomas had taken prisoner in violation of a truce. For 700 years, merchants have filled this square to sell their produce and crafts (in modern times, it’s Thu 8:00-13:00).
• With the statue of Guesclin behind you, follow Rue Ste. Claire to the right, into the old town and to the...
Théâtre des Jacobins: Fronting a pleasant little square, the theater was once one of the many convents that dominated the town. In fact, in medieval times, a third of Dinan consisted of convents. They’re still common in Brittany, which remains the most Catholic part of France. The theater today offers a full schedule of events.
• Turn left and walk down Rue de l’Horloge (“Clock Street”) toward the clock tower. On the way, on your left, you’ll see...
Anybody’s Tombstone: The tombstone without a head is a town mascot. It’s actually a prefab tombstone, made during the Hundred Years’ War, when there was more death than money in France. A portrait bust would be attached to this generic body for a proper, yet economical, burial.
• Continue to the...
Clock Tower: The old town spins around this clock tower, which has long symbolized the power of the town’s merchants. The tower’s 160 steps (the last few on a ladder) lead to a sweeping city view. Warning: Plug your ears at the quarter-hour, when the bells ring (€3, daily June-Sept 10:00-18:30, May 14:00-18:00, closed Oct-April).
• Across the street from the clock tower find...
La Craquanterie: This shop specializes in Breton cookies and treats. Look for beurre salé (salted butter—think salted caramel), kouign amann (a rich, caramelized cake), gâteau breton (butter cakes), and craquantes (crisp cookies with salted butter). They offer tastes of their goodies (daily 10:00-19:00, 12 Rue de l’Horloge, tel. 02 96 85 10 05).
• Continue along Rue de l’Horloge, taking the first left into Dinan’s historic commercial center, Place des Merciers. Stop under a porch.
Old Town Center: The arcaded, half-timbered buildings around you are Dinan’s oldest. They date from the time when property taxes were based on the square footage of the ground floor. To provide shelter from both the rain and taxes, buildings started with small ground floors, then expanded outward as they got taller. Notice the stone bases supporting the wood columns. Because trees did not come in standard lengths, it was easier to adjust the size of the pedestals.
Medieval shopkeepers sold goods in front of their homes under the shelter of leaning walls. Most streets are named for the key commerce that took place there. Wander further toward the square and locate picturesque Rue de la Cordonnerie (“Shoe Street,” to the left of the pretty restaurant La Mère Pourcel), a good example of a medieval lane, with overhanging buildings whose roofs nearly touch. After a disastrous 18th-century fire, a law required that the traditional thatch be replaced by safer slate.
• From La Mère Pourcel, go up Rue de la Cordonnerie into a small maze of streets. Walk through this “pub row,” turn right, and then right again, climbing a set of stairs leading to a modern market.
La Cohue: If you’re looking for a place to gather a picnic lunch, the shiny, renovated market stalls of La Cohue is it. There’s been a market here since the 13th century, but the ambience today is very 21st century. It has a produce stand, wine store, cheese shop, bakery, and a rotisserie where you can pick up a roast chicken to go (Tue-Thu 8:00-14:00, Fri-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Mon, www.la-cohue.com).
• If it’s open, walk through the market; otherwise you’ll need to backtrack to Place des Merciers. Continue working your way through the square. (The building with the arched stone facade at the end of the square—Les Cordeliers—used to be a Franciscan monastery during the Middle Ages; today, it’s a middle school...wrap your brain around that change.) Turn right on Rue de la Lainerie (“Street of Wool Shops”), which becomes...
Rue du Jerzual: This spiraling road was the primary medieval link to the port and the focus of commercial activity in old Dinan. The steep cobbled street (slippery when wet) was chock-a-block with potential customers making their way between the port and the upper city. Notice the waist-high stone and wooden shelves that front many of the buildings. Here, medieval merchants could display their products and tempt passersby. You can continue all the way down to the port (described later, under “Sights in Dinan”); it’s a 10-minute walk down (remember, what goes down must come back up). If your knees balk, follow the path to the ramparts, described next.
• For the best look at Dinan’s impressive fortified wall, turn right after passing under the massive medieval gate (Porte du Jerzual) and work your way up the curving road, following Chemin de Ronde signs. Turn right on Rue Michel, then turn right again through the green iron gate to walk along the...
Ramparts: In the Middle Ages, this elevated walkway was connected with Château de Dinan (it’s about a mile in either direction to the château from here). Although the old port town was repeatedly destroyed, these ramparts were never taken by force. If an attacker got by the contrescarpe (second outer wall, now covered in vegetation) and through the (dry) moat, he’d be pummeled by ghastly stuff dropped through the holes lining the ramparts. Today, the ramparts protect the town’s residential charm and private gardens. Venture out on the (second) huge Governor’s Tower to see how the cannon slots enabled defenders to shoot in all directions. As you look uphill, the St-Malo tower is the last one you can see. But our next destination is the tower built into the wall to the right (with your back to the upper old town). The tall church even farther to the right is where our walk ends—the Church of St. Sauveur.
• Double back to Rue Michel and turn right. Take the first left, onto Rue du Rempart. Walk to the round tower (in the corner of the park), called...
St. Catherine’s Tower: This part of Dinan’s medieval defense system allows strategic views of the river valley and over the old port (for more on the port, see below). Find the medieval bridge below and the path that leads along the river to the right to Léhon (described later, under “Sights in Dinan”). To the left you can follow the Rance River downstream as it meanders toward the sea. The English gardens behind you are picnic-pleasant.
• Walk through the gardens to the church behind you, and dip into the...
Church of St. Sauveur: Enter this asymmetrical church (typical in Brittany) to see striking, modern stained-glass windows and a beautifully lit nave. Pick up the simple English explanation and learn the church’s raison d’être. The building is a thousand years old—the wood balcony in the entry confirms that, as it heaves under the weight of the organ. When built, the church sat lonely on this hill, as all other activity was focused around the port.
• Your tour is over. Good lunch cafés are across the square (see “Eating in Dinan,” later), and you are a block below the main Rue de l’Horloge.
Following the self-guided walk, you can reach Dinan’s modest little port by continuing down Rue du Jerzual (which becomes Rue du Petit Fort). Notice the unusual wood-topped building just before the port (across from Le Cottage restaurant). This was a leather tannery. Those wooden shutters could open to dry the freshly tanned hides while the nearby river flushed the toxic waste products (happily, swimming was not in vogue then). The last business before the port is a killer bakery with delicious local specialties, including far breton and kouign amann (you’ll also find good picnic fixings and drinks to go). Try the pomme crumble. You deserve a baked break.
The port was the birthplace of Dinan a thousand years ago. For centuries, this is where people lived and worked, and today it’s a great place for a riverside drink or snack. This once-thriving port is connected to the sea—15 miles away—by the Rance River. By taxing river traffic, the town grew prosperous. The tiny Vieux Pont (Old Bridge) dates to the 15th century. Because the port area was so exposed, the townsfolk retreated to the bluff behind its current fortifications. Notice the viaduct high above, built in 1850 to alleviate congestion and to send traffic around the town. Until then, the main road crossed the tiny Old Bridge, heading up Rue du Jerzual to Dinan.
The best thing about Dinan’s port is the access it provides to lush riverside paths that amble along the gentle Rance River Valley. You can walk, bike, drive, or boat in either interesting direction (perfect for families).
On Foot: For a breath of fresh Brittany air and an easy walk, visit the flower-festooned village of Léhon. Trails on both sides of the river take you to the village in 30 minutes. While the trail on the far side is more scenic, it’s been blocked by a landslide for two years—and the detour is a rough hike up and down a steep hillside. Ask if the landslide has been cleared, or stay on the level, old-city side of the river.
Arriving in pristine little Léhon—a town of character, as the sign reminds you—visitors are greeted by a beautiful ninth-century abbey that rules the roost (find the cloisters; interior closed to visitors). Explore the village’s flowery cobbled lanes, but skip the town-topping castle ruin (free, 9:00-19:00). Enjoy a drink—or, even better, a meal at the adorable La Marmite de l’Abbaye café/restaurant, with seating inside or out. Your hostess, sweet Breton Madame Borgnic, serves wood-fire grilled meats for lunch and dinner (arrive by 13:30, closed Tue off-season, tel. 02 96 87 39 39). The trail continues on well past Léhon, but you’ll need a bike to make a dent in it. The villages of Evran and Treverien are both reachable by bike (allow 45 minutes from Dinan to Evran, and an additional 25 minutes to Treverien).
By Bike: The Rance River Valley could not be more bike-friendly, as there’s nary a foot of elevation gain (for bike rentals, ask at the TI). Here’s what I’d do with three hours and a bike: Pedal to Léhon (following the “On Foot” route, above), then double back to Dinan and follow the bike path along the river downstream to the Port de Lyvet.
To reach the Port de Lyvet, ride through Dinan’s port, staying on the old-city side of the river. You’ll join a parade of ocean-bound boats as the river opens up, becoming more like an inlet of the sea. It’s a breezy, level 30-minute ride past rock faces, cornfields, and slate-roofed farms to the tiny Port de Lyvet (cross small dam to reach village, trail ends a short distance beyond). L’Effet Mer café/restaurant is well-positioned in the village (open daily for lunch, dinner, or a refreshing drink on its wooden deck, closed Wed off-season, tel. 02 96 83 21 10). Serious cyclists should continue on to St-Suliac via La Vicomté (described later, under “By Car”).
By Boat: Boats depart from Dinan’s port, at the bottom of Rue du Jerzual, 50 feet to the left of the Old Bridge on the Dinan side (schedules depend on tides, get details at TI). The snail-paced, one-hour cruise on the Jaman IV runs upriver to Léhon (the trip is better on foot or bike), taking you through a lock and past pretty scenery (€13, April-Oct 2-4/day, fewer off-season, tel. 02 96 39 28 41, www.vedettejamaniv.com). A longer cruise with Compagnie Corsaire goes to St-Malo (€31 round-trip, €25 one-way, runs April-Sept, 1/day, slow and scenic 2.5 hours one-way, schedule changes with the tide, tel. 08 25 13 81 00, www.compagniecorsaire.com, or ask at TI). Enjoy St-Malo (described later in this chapter), then take the bus or train back (or do the reverse—bus/train to St-Malo, then boat back). Get the bus schedule before leaving Dinan (3-6/day, 1 hour, no buses on Sun except in summer).
By Car: Meandering the Rance River Valley by car requires a good map (orange Michelin #309 worked for me). Drivers connecting Dinan and St-Malo can include this short Rance joyride detour: From Dinan, go down to the port, then follow D-12 with the river to your right toward Taden, then toward Plouër-sur-Rance (Dinan’s port-front road is occasionally blocked, in which case you’ll join this route beyond the port). Stay straight through La Hisse, then drop down and turn right, following signs to La Vicomté-sur-Rance. Cross the Rance on the small dam and find the cute Port de Lyvet (lunch café described earlier), then continue to La Vicomté and find D-29 north. Track your way to St-Suliac, a pretty little port town with a handful of restaurants, a small grocery store, and a photogenic boulangerie. Stroll the ancient alleys, find a bench on the grassy waterfront, and contemplate lunch. La Ferme du Boucanier Bistrot is a good bet (menus from €30, closed Tue-Wed, open for lunch weekends only, 2 Rue de l’Hôpital, tel. 02 23 15 06 35). From here, continue on to St-Malo or return to Dinan.
Dinan is popular. Weekends and summers are tight; book ahead if you can. Dinan likes its nightlife, so be wary of rooms over loud bars, particularly on lively weekends.
$$$ Hôtel Le d’Avaugour**** is Dinan’s most central four-star hotel, with an efficient staff, stay-awhile lounge areas, full bar, and backyard garden oasis. It faces busy Place du Guesclin, near the town’s medieval wall. The wood-furnished rooms have comfortable queen- or king-sized beds and modern hotel amenities. Likeable owner Nicolas strongly encourages two-night stays (streetside Db-€120-150, garden-side Db-€120-190, third person-€16, suites available, prices vary greatly by season, rooms over garden are best, good breakfast-€14, elevator, bikes available, 1 Place du Champ, tel. 02 96 39 07 49, www.avaugourhotel.com, contact@avaugourhotel.com).
$$ Hôtel Arvor*** is a top-notch place with a fine stone facade, ideally located in the old city a block off Place du Guesclin. It’s well-run, with 24 tastefully appointed and comfortable rooms (standard Db-€72-95, Tb-€88-125, €15/person extra for larger rooms accommodating up to 6 people, breakfast-€9.50, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking-€5/day, 5 Rue Pavie, tel. 02 96 39 21 22, www.hotelarvordinan.com, hotel-arvor@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Chambres d’Hôte le Logis du Jerzual is just about as cozy as it gets, with five warmly decorated rooms, period furnishings, and thoughtful touches throughout. Ideal hostess Sylvie Ronserray welcomes guests. Enjoy the terraced yard in this haven of calm close to the action: It’s just up from the port but a long, steep walk below the main town (Db-€85-95, Db suite-€118, extra bed-€25, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi, 25 Rue du Petit Fort, tel. 02 96 85 46 54, www.logis-du-jerzual.com, sylvie.logis@laposte.net). To drop your bags, drive up the steep, narrow, and bumpy Rue du Petit Fort from the port (ignore the pedestrian zone warnings and follow the hotel signs). Parking is nearby.
$$ Hôtel de la Tour de l’Horloge** is a good two-star bet burrowed deep in the town’s center, with 12 imaginatively decorated and impeccably maintained rooms fronting the bar-lined Rue de la Chaux (some rooms can be noisy on weekends). Gentle Catherine speaks English and gives a warm welcome; her goal is to connect travelers to Dinan and Brittany (Db-€68-77, Tb-€80-87, Qb-€90-105, Wi-Fi in public areas, 5 Rue de la Chaux, tel. 02 96 39 96 92, www.hotel-dinan.com, hotel.pbdelatour@orange.fr).
$ Hôtel du Théâtre is for serious budget travelers, with five simple and slightly smelly (but clean) rooms above a scrappy café/bar, across from Hôtel Arvor (S/D-€29, Db-€34, €4 more July-Aug, 2 Rue Ste. Claire, tel. 02 96 39 06 91, owner Patrick speaks some English).
$$$ Hôtel Ibis Dinan**, with its shiny, predictable comfort, stands tall between Place du Guesclin and the train station. It works especially well for bus and train travelers, as it’s central, reasonably priced, and next to the bus stop—convenient for hitting regional destinations such as St-Malo. They may have rooms when others don’t (Db-€92-106, extra bed-€10, 1 Place Duclos-Pinot, tel. 02 96 39 46 15, www.ibishotel.com, h5977@accor.com).
$ Hôtel de la Gare* faces the station and offers the full Breton Monty, with charmant Laurence and Claude (who both love Americans), a local-as-it-gets café hangout, and surprisingly quiet, clean, and comfy rooms for a bargain. The hotel has no email of its own and you won’t find it on Booking.com, but it does offers free Wi-Fi—thanks to the owners’ teenage son (Ds-€36, Db-€50, Tb/Qb-€50-65, breakfast-€6, Place de la Gare, tel. 02 96 39 04 57, fax 02 96 39 02 29).
To locate these places, see the map on here.
$$$ Hôtel Manoir de Rigourdaine** is the place to stay if you have a car and two nights to savor Brittany. Overlooking a splendid scene of green meadows and turquoise water, this well-renovated farmhouse comes with wood beams, comfy public spaces, immaculate grounds, and three-star rooms (many with views) for two-star prices (Db-€89-97, extra person-€20, breakfast-€9.50, guest computer, Wi-Fi, 15-minute drive north of Dinan, tel. 02 96 86 89 96, www.hotel-rigourdaine.fr, hotel.rigourdaine@wanadoo.fr). From Dinan, drop down to the port and follow D-12 toward Taden, then follow signs to Plouër-sur-Rance, then Langrolay, and look for signs to the hotel. If coming from the St-Malo area, take D-137 toward Rennes, then N-176 toward Dinan. Take the Rance Plouër exit, and follow signs to Langrolay until you see hotel signs. If coming from Rennes, take D-137 toward St-Malo, then N-176 toward Saint-Brieuc, take the Plouër-sur-Rance exit, and look for signs to Langrolay and then the hotel.
Dinan has good restaurants for every budget. Since galettes (savory crêpes) are the specialty, crêperies are a nice, inexpensive choice—and available on every corner. Be daring and try the crêpes with scallops and cream, or go for the egg-and-cheese crêpes. Ham-filled crêpes can be salty. For a good dinner, book Le Cantorbery or Le Cottage a day ahead if you can, and think hard about walking, riding, or driving to nearby Léhon for a charming village experience (see “Rance River Valley—On Foot,” earlier).
Le Cantorbery is a warm place (literally), where meats are grilled in the cozy dining-room fireplace à la tradition. The seafood is très tasty (menus from €28, closed Wed except July-Aug, just off Place du Guesclin at 6 Rue Ste. Claire, indoor dining only, two floors, tel. 02 96 39 02 52, well-run by sincere Madame Touchais).
Fleur de Sel, run by welcoming Monsieur Guilli, is where locals go for fish (meat dishes also served). The decor is appealing, and the choices are varied and reasonably priced (menus from €20-40, closed Sun-Mon, 7 Rue Ste. Claire, tel. 02 96 85 15 14).
Crêperie Ahna rocks Dinan. Locals jam the place: The price is right, the dishes are excellent, and owner Gregory sets the tone for a fun experience. The cuisine goes well beyond crêpes; the do-it-yourself pierrades—where you cook your meat or fish on a hot stone at your table—are a treat (inside seating only, closed Sun, 7 Rue de la Poissonnerie, tel. 02 96 39 09 13).
La Lycorne is Dinan’s place to go for a healthy serving of mussels prepared 20 different ways. The cook-at-your-table pierrades are a good deal (€13 mussels—served with fries of course, €15-18 pierrades, many other dishes available). The ambience is fine inside or out, as it’s situated on a traffic-free street (closed Mon, 6 Rue de la Poissonnerie, tel. 02 96 39 08 13).
La Tomate dishes up pizza and pasta for €10-12 with appealing indoor or outdoor seating (April-Sept open daily, Oct-March closed Sun-Mon, 4 Rue de l’Ecole, tel. 02 96 39 96 12).
Café St. Sauveur is a local watering hole/café with good prices and a hard-to-beat setting...when it’s sunny (€7 for lunch salads and plats, open daily, across from the church at 19 Place St. Sauveur, tel. 02 96 85 30 20). The café next door offers a similar menu and prices.
At the Old Port: You’ll find several restaurants at the old port. Have a before-dinner drink—or a meal if the waterfront setting matters more than the cuisine—at one of the places on the river (La Terrasse is decent). I’d hold out for dinner at Le Cottage, which is just off the water along a cobbled lane. The massive central fireplace provides a warm ambience and a handy meat grill (grilled dishes are a specialty). Portions are American-sized, and animated owner Claire wants to make you happy—trust her advice on what to order (€20-29 menus—I’d spring for the €29 menu, daily, 78 Rue du Petit Fort, tel. 02 96 87 96 70).
Nightlife: So many lively pub-like bars line the narrow, pedestrian-friendly Rue de la Cordonnerie that the street is nicknamed “Rue de la Soif” (“Street of Thirst”). When the weather is good, you can sit outside at a picnic table and strike up a conversation with a friendly, tattooed Breton.
Locals take the bus to Dol-de-Bretagne or to Rennes, then catch trains from there (trains from Dinan require several changes, take longer than buses for regional destinations, and barely run on Sundays). Regional bus service is provided by Tibus (www.tibus.fr) or Illenoo (www.illenoo-services.fr).
From Dinan by Train to: Paris’ Gare Montparnasse (2/day, 3.5 hours, change in Dol-de-Bretagne, more with transfers in Dol and Rennes), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (3/day, 1.5-2.5 hours, change in Dol, then bus or taxi from Pontorson, see “Mont St-Michel Connections” on here), St-Malo (6/day, 1-2 hours, transfer in Dol, bus is better—see below), Amboise (1/day, 6 hours, via Dol, Le Mans, and Tours).
By Bus to: Rennes (with good train connections to many destinations, 7/day, 1 hour), St-Malo (3-6/day, none on Sun except in summer, 1 hour; faster and better than train, as bus stops are more central), Mont St-Michel (3/day, 3.5 hours, transfer in Rennes), Dinard (7/day, fewer on Sun, 45 minutes). All buses depart from Place Duclos-Pinot (near the main post office), and most make a stop at the train station, too.
Come here to experience a true Breton beach resort. The old center (called Intra Muros) is your target, with pretty beaches, powerful ramparts that hug the entire town, and island fortifications that litter the bay. The inner city has an eerie, almost claustrophobic feeling, thanks to the concentration of tall, dark stone buildings hemmed in by the towering ramparts (though a few pedestrian streets buck that sensation). The town feels better up top on the walls, which are the sight here. St-Malo is packed in July and August, when the 8,000 people who call the old city home are joined by 12,000 additional daily “residents.” But if you’re willing to brave the crowds, it’s an easy 45-minute drive—or a manageable bus or train ride—from Mont St-Michel or Dinan. (However, there’s no baggage storage anywhere.) If you have a whole day here, circumnavigate St-Malo along its walls, take the walk to Alet, and visit Fort du Petit Bé.
St-Malo’s TI is across from the main city gate (Porte St. Vincent) on Esplanade St. Vincent (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed at lunchtime April-June and Sept; shorter hours and closed Sun in off-season; tel. 08 25 13 52 00, www.saint-malo-tourisme.com). Pick up the helpful city map, along with schedules for the bus, train, or ferry (to Dinard). Downloadable walking tours of the city are available through the TI website.
By Train: The modern TGV Station is a five-minute bus ride on the #C-1 or #C-2 lines to Porte St. Vincent (€1.25). If you’d rather walk, go for 15 minutes straight out of the station, then track the pointed spire in the distance for another five minutes.
By Bus: The main bus stops are near the Porte St. Vincent and TI (closer to town) and at the train station (confirm which stop your bus uses—some stop at both).
By Car: Follow Centre-Ville signs to the old center (signs lead to Intra-Muros), and park as close as possible to the Porte St. Vincent (at the merry-go-round). A big underground parking lot is opposite the Porte St. Vincent, and smaller surface lots are scattered around the walls.
Internet Access: The most central place to get online inside the walls is at Mokamalo (closed Sun afternoon and all day Mon, 5 Rue de l’Orme, tel. 02 99 56 60 17). To get Wi-Fi for the price of a drink, try Tam’s Kaffee on Place des Frères Lamennais (tel. 02 23 18 24 14, closed Mon-Tue).
Laundry: Inside the walls, you’ll find a launderette on the corner of Rue de la Herse and Halle aux Blés (daily 7:00-21:00).
Bike Rental: There are several places to rent bikes near the train station and TI. Ask at the TI or find Ty’Boost bikes near the TI at 49 Quai Duguay-Trouin (tel. 02 99 56 47 18).
Car Rental: Avis (tel. 02 99 40 18 54) and Europcar (tel. 02 99 56 75 17) are both inside the train station.
Foot Ferry: A nifty little ferry (Bus de Mer) shuttles passengers between St-Malo and Dinard in 10 minutes (€7.80 round-trip, runs 9:00-18:00, later in summer, closed Nov-Jan). Boats depart from the Cale de Dinan on the west side of the old city.
Minivan Tour: Westcapades guarantees minivan departures at least three times a week from St-Malo. Tours include Dinan and Mont St-Michel, and officially end at the Rennes train station so you can connect to Paris (see here for more details).
To reach the ramparts, climb the stairs inside the Porte St. Vincent and tour the walls counterclockwise. It’s a rewarding mile-long romp around the medieval fortifications (the oldest segments date from the 1100s).
Along the way, stairs at several points (portes) provide access to the beach and the town. Walk down to the beaches if the tides allow (along with Mont St-Michel, St-Malo has Europe’s greatest tidal changes). You’ll see tree trunks planted like little forests on the sand—these form part of St-Malo’s breakwater and must be replaced every 20 years. Storms scream in off the English Channel and bring surges of waves that pound the seawalls.
Those fortified islands were built during the Hundred Years’ War (late 1600s) by Louis XIV’s military architect, Vauban, to defend the country against England. You can tour the closer forts when tides allow (each costs €5 to enter). Fort National is the first you’ll come across (but can be visited only with a French-language tour). Farther along, you’ll see the more worthwhile Fort du Petit Bé (access is often submerged), which sits behind Ile du Grand Bé, where the famous poet Chateaubriand is buried. The island of Grand Bé is worth a romp if the tide agrees, and the views of Fort Petit du Bé will send your imagination soaring. The longer, low-slung island even farther out has no buildings and is off-limits until WWII mines are completely removed. Speaking of World War II, St-Malo was decimated by American bombs during the war as part of the campaign to liberate France. Eighty percent of St-Malo was leveled. Even though they look old, most of the town’s buildings date from 1945 or later.
As you walk along the wall, soon after the recommended Le Corps de Garde Crêperie, you’ll pass a Chiens du Guet restaurant sign. At one time, bulldogs were kept in the small, enclosed area behind the restaurant, then let loose late at night to patrol the beaches.
Nearby, Québec flags fly in honor of St-Malo’s sister city, Québec City. (Explorer Jacques Cartier, who visited the future site of Québec City and is credited with discovering Canada, lived in and sailed from St-Malo.)
You’ll eventually spot a long, concrete jetty below that offers good views back to the ramparts. Across the bay is the belle époque resort city of Dinard (described later). Farther along, look for long pétanque (a.k.a. boules) courts below the walls (you may encounter games of boule bretonne—more like lawn bowling and with bigger balls). The Corsaires ticket office, located just before the commercial port, marks the departure point for the foot ferry to Dinard (you’ll enjoy great views on your return ride to St-Malo).
From here, find your way inside the walls along Rue de Dinan, and return to the Porte St. Vincent on surface streets. The shopping streets Rue de la Vieille Boucherie and Rue Porcon de la Barbinais are among the most appealing.
The neighboring village of Alet is just a few minutes’ drive past St-Malo’s port (a 20-minute walk from the ramparts), but it feels a world apart. A splendid walking path leads around this small point with stunning views of crashing waves, the city of Dinard, the open sea, and, finally, St-Malo (allow 30 minutes at a relaxed pace, go in a clockwise direction). WWII bunkers cap the small hill; inside one of the bunkers is the small Mémorial 39/45 museum, which commemorates the conflict in this region (€6, one-hour guided tours in French only, tel. 02 99 82 41 74, www.ville-saint-malo.fr/culture/les-musees). Several popular cafés face the bay back near the Tour Solidor (a 14th-century fortification at the mouth of the Rance River).
To get to Alet by car from St-Malo (see map on here), drive out of town with the rampart walls on your right and the Bassin Vauban port on your left; follow Toutes Directions signs south until you spot signposts for Alet. Follow these into the district. Musée Memorial signs will take you to the top of the bluff; Tour Solidor signs lead to parking at the tower or Place St. Pierre. To reach the start of the walking path, walk several blocks (with the sea on your left).
On foot from St-Malo, walk from Porte St. Louis along the road and across the drawbridge (note the dry dock as you pass the second roundabout). Go past the Olympique Piscine (swimming pool), then cut right through the parking lot to the walking path that leads around the harbor. When you reach the seawall, look left for a set of steps that connects to a path around the point. At the top of the steps, you’ll find more steps that lead to the Mémorial 39/45 museum and the bunkers.
Spending a night here gives you more time to enjoy the sunset and sea views from the town walls.
$$$ Hôtel France et Chateaubriand*** is a venerable establishment near the Porte St. Vincent, with 80 rooms at decent rates (Db-€100-170, most rooms around €110, breakfast-€12, secure parking-€15/day, Wi-Fi, 12 Place Chateaubriand, tel. 02 99 56 66 52, www.hotel-chateaubriand-st-malo.com).
$$$ Hôtel du Louvre***, a modern three-star hotel within the city walls, is run by helpful Philippe and his wife Anne. The hotel has comfortable and chic—if small—rooms (Db-€98-142, breakfast-€12, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€7.50-12/day, 2 Rue des Marins, tel. 02 99 40 86 62, www.hoteldulouvre-saintmalo.com, contact@hoteldulouvre-saintmalo.com).
$$ Hôtel le Nautilus** is a solid value, run by the affable team of Loïck and Jean-Michel. It’s conveniently located inside the walls near Porte St. Vincent (Db-€68, Tb-€86, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€5.50/day, 9 Rue de la Corne de Cerf, easiest to park outside walls and walk in through Porte St. Vincent, tel. 02 99 40 42 27, www.lenautilus.com, info@lenautilus.com).
St-Malo is all about seafood and crêpes. There’s no shortage of restaurants, many serving the local specialty of mussels (moules) and oysters (huîtres). Look also for bakeries selling ker-y-pom, traditional Breton apple-filled shortbread biscuits that are the best-tasting treat in town, especially when warmed.
Le Corps de Garde Crêperie is my favorite lunch stop. It’s up on the walls, with St-Malo’s cheapest view tables. They serve inventive crêpes at fair prices from noon to 22:00, with a cool ambience indoors or out (daily, 3 Montée Notre Dame, tel. 02 99 40 91 46).
Bouche en Folie matches tasty specialties that change daily with a cozy setting; it’s traditional without being kitsch (menus from €25, closed Mon, 14 Rue du Boyer, mobile 06 72 49 08 89).
Coté Sens is my St-Malo mini-splurge. Enthusiastically run by the wife and husband team of Sandrine and Oliver, Coté Sens has a small but delightfully fresh selection that Sandrine happily translates for you (menus from €29, daily, 16 Rue de la Herse, tel. 02 99 20 08 12).
Le Chateaubriand, inside Porte St. Vincent, offers two choices. The ground-floor restaurant delivers a grand, Old World aura and a full range of choices at decent prices (menus from €19, daily, inside and outdoor dining). Their gourmet restaurant—Le 5—is five floors up; you pay for the views (€29 lunch menu, no dinner menu, €16-28 main dishes, closed Mon-Tue, Place Chateaubriand, tel. 02 99 56 66 52, www.le5-restaurant.com).
Nightlife: The oldest café in St-Malo (open since 1820) also has the longest name (too long to repeat here) and 2,874 dolls along its walls. Locals call it La Java and gather here for beer, wine, and les bon temps. Even if you won’t be staying overnight in St-Malo, it’s worth taking a peek at the quirky decor any time of day (near Porte St. Vincent at 3 Rue Ste. Barbe, tel. 02 99 56 41 90, www.lajavacafe.com).
From St-Malo by Train to: Dinan (6/day, 1-2 hours, transfer in Dol-de-Bretagne, bus is better—see below), Pontorson (with bus connections to Mont St-Michel; 2/day, 2 hours, transfer in Dol).
By Bus to: Dinan (3-6/day, none on Sun except in summer, 1 hour; faster and better than train, as bus stops are more central), Mont St-Michel (1/day direct usually at 9:15, 1.25 hours, runs daily July-Aug, Tue-Sat only April-June and Sept-Oct, less off-season, €20 round-trip fare even if only going one-way, buy from driver), Rennes (4/day). Regional bus service is provided by Tibus (www.tibus.fr) or Illenoo (www.illenoo-services.fr).
Alternative Ways to Mont St-Michel: If you can’t take the express bus, there are a few other train-to-bus and bus-to-bus trips that work (at least 2 hours to Mont St-Michel, depending on the time of day). And schedules change like the wind, so let the TI explain your options.
This upscale-traditional resort comes with a kid-friendly beach and an old-time, Coney Island-style, beach-promenade feel (7 buses/day from Dinan, fewer on Sun, 45 minutes). Its Saturday market is worthwhile, and views from the foot ferry (Bus de Mer) to St-Malo are wonderful (€7.80 round-trip, runs 9:00-18:00, later in summer, departs Dinard from below Promenade du Clair de Lune at Embarcadère). Otherwise, there’s little other reason to come here.
The TI, between the casino and Place de la République parking lot, is at 2 Boulevard Féart (daily 10:00-12:30 & 14:30-18:00, tel. 02 99 46 94 12, www.ot-dinard.com). To get to the TI from Place de la République, walk toward the water, take the first right, and make another right onto Boulevard Féart.
Dinard is a 10- to 20-minute drive from St-Malo. Leaving St-Malo, follow Barrage de la Rance signs through the unappealing port; when you arrive in Dinard, follow Centre-Ville signs, and park on Place de la République.
For drivers, the coastline immediately west of St-Malo and Dinard offers sweeping views of sandy beaches with wind-sculpted rocks, immense cliffs overlooking crashing waves, and sleepy fishing hamlets. The star is Fort la Latte, a medieval castle built on a rocky spur over the ocean—so picturesque that it was featured in a Hollywood movie.
Allow a half-day for the entire trip. You’ll first drive to the farthest point of the journey—the resort town of Sables-d’Or-les-Pins—and then slowly work your way back toward St-Malo (this route also works well in the opposite direction). If you don’t have much time and just want to see the fort, it’s about an hour’s drive from St-Malo or Dinan.
During summer or on a weekend, do this drive early to avoid crowds. If it’s Saturday and off-season, consider starting at the market in Dinard (described earlier) and then follow my directions.
Getting to Sables-d’Or-les-Pins from St-Malo: Take D-168 west, which becomes D-786 near Ploubalay. Continue on D-786 in the direction of Matignon and Fréhel, then watch for the turn-off to Sables-d’Or-les-Pins.
Getting to Sables-d’Or-les-Pins from Dinan: Take D-794 to Plancoët. In the town center, follow signs to St-Lormel. As you leave town, watch for another St-Lormel sign and turn left to go over the river. Follow D-19 through St-Lormel and join D-786. Go through Matignon and Fréhel, then turn off to Sables-d’Or-les-Pins.
Sables-d’Or-les-Pins: Park near the grand casino and venture out on the sand. Take your shoes off. If the tide’s out, you’ll see beached fishing boats and miles of sand. Cap Fréhel, your next stop, is a lovely 15-minute drive away. Follow D-34 and drive slowly: View pullouts are there for a reason.
Cap Fréhel: This popular destination lies at the tip of a long peninsula and features walking paths over soaring cliffs with views in all directions. The place gets jammed in the afternoon—if time is tight, skip this stop and head directly to Fort la Latte. You’ll pay €2 to park near the stone lighthouse. Views from the trails are sufficiently expansive, but it is possible to climb the lighthouse each afternoon (€2, Mon-Fri 15:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00). That’s Fort la Latte to the east, your next destination.
Fort la Latte: This mighty fortress, worth ▲▲, is a five-minute drive east of Cap Fréhel. From the parking lot, it’s a 10-minute walk to stunning views of a medieval castle hugging a massive rock above the ocean (€5, daily 10:30-18:30, tel. 02 96 41 57 11, www.castlelalatte.com). Pick up the English flier and learn the historical background of the castle, then tour it at your own pace.
The first fort on this site was made from wood and built as a lookout for those nasty Normans. What you see today dates from the 14th and 15th centuries, when wars between England and France caught Brittany in the middle for well over a hundred years. While the castle was never successfully attacked from the sea, in 1597 its garrison of 25 men was overwhelmed by a force of 2,000 soldiers coming overland. Later, Louis XIV’s military architect Vauban oversaw work shoring up the castle’s outer defenses. It was used well into the 18th century.
Touring the site, you’ll cross two impressive drawbridges (notice the spiked gates), peer into dungeons (one still holds a prisoner), and wander ramparts towering high above the ocean. The guardroom houses a small gift shop (there’s a good book about the castle in English for €5). The small chapel was added in the 18th century, replacing the original chapel, and is dedicated to St. Michael, protector of warriors. The largest structure inside the fort is the governor’s lodge (closed to the public).
The highlight of a visit to Fort la Latte is the climb to the top of the castle keep, with a magnificent 360-degree view. You’ll pass several beautifully vaulted rooms on the way up. Once on top, as you gaze out from this invincible castle, clinging for its life to a rock, think of Fort la Latte as a symbol of Brittany’s determination to remain independent from France. It’s no surprise that Hollywood used this castle in the 1958 film The Vikings with Kirk Douglas. The low-slung four à boulets in the western end served as a kiln to heat cannonballs. The defenders aimed hot shots at ships to set them afire. That’s cool. One hundred cannon balls could be heated at a time.
If you want to stretch your legs, a trail behind the ticket kiosk links to Cap Fréhel. A 10-minute walk up this path rewards you with killer views back to the fort; it takes 75 minutes to walk all the way to the cape. There’s also a short trail down to a rocky beach, giving you a sea-level perspective of the fortress.
Fort la Latte to St-Malo: Take D-16 back to D-786 and head east. A worthwhile detour on the way is Pointe du Chevet. From D-786, follow D-62 into the sweet little town of St-Jacut-de-la-Mer, then track signs to Pointe Chevet—and don’t park until the road ends. Beautiful views (and far fewer people) surround you. If the tide is out, you can hike to an island and study the impressive rows of wooden piers sunk into the bay. These are used to grow mussels, which cling to the wooden poles; farmers eventually harvest them using a machine that pushes a ring around the poles. From here, return to D-786 heading toward Ploubalay and find signs to St-Malo or Dinan.
If you have less time, consider this lovely ride—worth ▲▲▲ if it’s clear (see route on map on here). This quick taste-of-Brittany driving tour samples a bit of the rugged peninsula’s coast, with lots of views but no dramatic forts. Allow two hours for the drive between Mont St-Michel and St-Malo, including stops (a more direct route takes 45 minutes). On a weekend or in summer, the drive will take longer—start early. These directions are from St-Malo to Mont St-Michel, but the drive works just as well in reverse order.
St-Malo to the Emerald Coast: From St-Malo, take the scenic road hugging the coast east on D-201 to Pointe du Grouin, where the appropriately named Emerald Coast (Côte d’Emeraude) begins. To find the road, leave St-Malo following Cancale signs and passing countless roundabouts, then look for signs to Rothéneuf, where you’ll access D-201, which skirts in and out of camera-worthy views. Brown signs lead to short worthwhile detours to the coast; these are my favorites:
Ile Besnard and Dunes de Chevets: A five-minute detour off D-201 leads to this pretty, sandy beach arcing alongside a crescent bay. There are sea-piercing rocks to scramble on, a nature trail above the beach, and a view restaurant by the campground (Les Chevets Bar/Restaurant, closed Mon-Tue). From the hamlet of La Guimorais, a 10-minute drive from Rothéneuf, follow signs to Ile Besnard and Dunes de Chevets to the very end (past the campground), and park at the far end of the lot.
Pointe du Grouin: This striking rock outcrop yields views from easy trails in all directions. Park near Hôtel du Grouin (outdoor café with views), and continue on foot. Pass the semaphore du grouin (signal station), where paths lead everywhere. Breathe in the sea air. Can you spot Mont St-Michel in the distance? The big rock below is Ile des Landes, an island earmarked for a fort during the French Revolution. The fort was never built, and the island remains home to thousands of birds. What fool would build on an island in this bay?
Cancale: Return to your car and leave Pointe du Grouin, following signs to Cancale, Brittany’s appealing oyster capital. Its harbor (le port) is lined with restaurants, all offering oysters and mussels. Upon arrival in Cancale, follow par la côte signs to arrive on the port side. Slurp oysters here.
Cancale to Mont St-Michel: Cancale is a 45-minute drive from Mont St-Michel. Head out of Cancale toward Mont St-Michel on D-76/D-155, then D-797, and drive along the Route de la Baie, which skirts the bay and passes big-time oyster farming, windmill towers (most lacking their sails), flocks of sheep, and, at low tide, grounded boats waiting for the sea to return. On a clear day, look for Mont St-Michel in the distance. On a foggy day, look harder.
The very Breton city of Fougères, worth ▲, is a handy stop for drivers traveling between the Loire châteaux and Mont St-Michel. Fougères has one of Europe’s largest medieval castles, a lovely old city center, and a panoramic park viewpoint. Drivers follow Centre-Ville signs, then Château, and park at the free lot just past the château.
For a memorable, leg-stretching stroll, start from the parking lot near the château. Walk into Fougères with the water-filled moat on your left, then follow Jardin Public signs. Stop for a peek in the handsome church of St. Sulpice (English handout inside); the woodwork is exceptional, from the paneled walls and ceiling to the choir stalls and the carved altar. Then let the Jardin Public signs lead you through back streets, passing gingerbread-like Breton homes, up into the lush park. Walk through manicured gardens to the base of St. Léonard Church and find the floral panorama. Double back most of the way you came, then veer right to the château and under the stone gate. There’s no reason to enter the château unless you need more exercise or a town map (€8, includes audioguide, daily 10:00-19:00 except closed Mon May-June and Sept; shorter hours Oct-Dec, closed Jan; tel. 02 99 99 79 59, www.chateau-fougeres.com). For a good view of the castle without the previous climb, walk a block above the castle (up Rue de la Pinterie) and find the short ramparts across from the crêperie recommended next.
Eating in Fougères: You’ll find a gaggle of cafés and crêperies near the castle with good choices and prices. Le Bonheur Est Dans le Blé is a notch above the others, serving tasty crêpes on a lovely little terrace overlooking the valley (closed Tue evening except July-Aug, also closed for lunch Sat-Sun off-season, a block up from the château at 3 Rue Fourchette, tel. 02 99 94 99 72).