Vegetarian
“Bloody man,” I said aloud. “What have you done, shot a moose?” My voice sounded small in the muffled air, but the thought made me feel better. If he had in fact bagged something large near the end of the day, he might well have chosen to camp by the carcass; butchering a large animal was exhausting, lengthy work, and meat was too hard come by to leave it to the mercies of predators.
My vegetable stew was bubbling, and the cabin was filled with the savory scent of onions and wild garlic, but I had no appetite. I pushed the kettle on its hook to the back of the hearth—easy enough to heat again when he came. A tiny flash of green caught my eye, and I stooped to look. A tiny salamander, frightened out of its winter refuge in a crack of the wood.
—Drums of Autumn, chapter 21, “Night on a Snowy Mountain”
A hearty mix of vegetables with a rich and delicious brown-roux base. The cornerstone of Cajun and Creole cuisine, brown roux is used to thicken gumbos and étouffées. It lends this vegetable stew a deep color, body, and flavor missing from many meatless dishes; even the most committed carnivores will approve.
Once you start the roux, you cannot leave the stove for even a moment, so make sure all the ingredients are prepped before you begin.
Serves 6 or more
Ingredients
1 large onion, chopped (see Knife Skills)
2 large stalks celery, chopped
1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, halved
1 fresh rosemary sprig
2 fresh thyme sprigs
2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and quartered
6 whole peppercorns
1 cup vegetable oil
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1½ pounds (700 grams or 1 small) butternut squash, peeled and seeds removed, cut into 2-inch pieces
1½ pounds (700 grams or about 3 medium) potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 large parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
½ pound (225 grams) button mushrooms, chopped
1 medium pear, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small zucchini, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 bunch spinach, stems removed
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus additional
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Method
Combine the onions, celery, red peppers, and garlic in a food processor and pulse 6 to 8 times, until finely chopped but not mush.
Make a bouquet garni. Wrap the rosemary, thyme, ginger, and peppercorns in a square of cheesecloth and tie with string, or enclose the items in a large tea ball. Set the bouquet garni aside.
In a stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium until shimmering. Sprinkle in the flour gradually, stirring constantly to form a smooth paste. Continue to stir, scraping the bottom and the corners of the pot regularly to avoid burning the flour. Reduce the heat to medium-low after about 10 minutes and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the deep, rich color of milk chocolate, 30 to 40 minutes.
Immediately add the chopped vegetables, being careful of splatters, and mix well. Increase the heat to medium-high, add 1 quart cold water and the squash, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, mushrooms, and pear. Bring to a boil, stirring almost constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low and add the bouquet garni. Simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Add the zucchini, spinach, salt, and cayenne pepper and cook for 15 more minutes. Remove the bouquet garni and season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot with Dumplings in Cross Creek or over rice.
Keep leftovers in the fridge up to 5 days.
Notes
• Have patience with the roux—do not attempt to rush it over a high heat. It should darken evenly, with the occasional dark brown speck in the mixture. Black specks mean the flour is burned and the roux is garbage. Begin again on a lower heat.
• Pear, parsnip, and ginger combine to produce a subtle yet complex flavor that is a delicious surprise for many.
• Mustard greens, collards, or any bitter green are a tasty substitute for the spinach.
I caught up with her just outside the barn; she heard my step behind her and turned, startled. She glanced about quickly, but saw we were alone. Realizing that there was no way of putting off a confrontation, she squared her shoulders under the woolen cloak and lifted her head, meeting my eyes straight on.
“I thought I’d best tell Young Ian to unsaddle the horse,” she said. “Then I’m going to the root cellar to fetch up some onions for a tart. Will ye come with me?”
“I will.” Pulling my cloak tight around me against the winter wind, I followed her into the barn.
—Voyager, chapter 38, “I Meet a Lawyer”
A creamy and mild vegetarian version of the classic Alsatian onion tart that combines julienned onions and bacon in an egg-enriched béchamel sauce. Serve it with a salad for a simple yet delectable Sunday brunch.
Makes one 10- to 12-inch tart
Ingredients
¼ cup (4 tablespoons) butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound (450 grams or 2 to 3 medium) yellow onions, julienned (see Knife Skills)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped, or ½ teaspoon dried
Kosher salt to taste
White pepper to taste
2 large eggs, 1 separated
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups whole milk
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
½ recipe Short Crust Pastry, chilled
Method
In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons butter and the olive oil over medium heat until melted. Add the onions, thyme, salt, and a pinch of white pepper. Cook until the onions are soft and translucent, but with no color, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Move a rack to the middle rung and heat the oven to 350°F. Whisk together the whole egg and the yolk. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the egg white with 1 teaspoon cold water to make an egg wash.
In a medium saucepan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. When the butter is bubbling, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Whisk in the milk slowly and heat, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until it comes to a boil. Boil gently, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens substantially, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the beaten egg and yolk and let cool for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Roll the short crust dough out to a circle ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to a 10- to 12-inch tart pan and trim. Poke holes all over the bottom of the crust, cover the dough with parchment paper or foil, and fill the crust with pie weights or dried beans. Bake 10 minutes, remove the weights and parchment paper, and return to the oven until the pastry looks dry, about 10 more minutes. Brush the bottom with the egg wash to seal.
Increase the oven temperature to 400°F.
Center the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the onions in an even layer. Pour the béchamel over the top and bake until just set in the center, 30 to 35 minutes.
Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
Refrigerate leftovers up to 3 days.
Note
• Crisp and crumble 2 slices of thick-cut bacon over the parbaked crust before topping with the onions and béchamel for a classic Alsatian onion tart.
Manioc and Red Beans with Fried Plantain
“Would one of Ermenegilda’s dresses fit you, I wonder?”
I didn’t know whether to answer this or not. Instead, I merely smiled politely, and hoped what I was thinking didn’t show on my face. Fortunately, at this point Mamacita came back, carrying a steaming clay pot wrapped in towels. She slapped a ladleful of the contents on each plate, then went out, her feet—if she had any—moving invisibly beneath the shapeless skirt.
I stirred the mess on my plate, which appeared to be vegetable in nature. I took a cautious bite, and found it surprisingly good.
“Fried plantain, mixed with manioc and red beans,” Lawrence explained, seeing my hesitation. He took a large spoonful of the steaming pulp himself and ate it without pausing for it to cool.
—Voyager, chapter 50, “I Meet a Priest”
Mamacita’s dish of manioc and red beans is a simplified and vegetarian version of the Caribbean comfort food called “oil down,” a stew of vegetables, salted fish and/or beef, chicken, dumplings, pig’s tail, et cetera, in coconut milk.
The crunchy garlic- and-ginger-spiked green plantain fritters are also a variation of local recipes, and contrast beautifully with the smooth, starchy texture of the manioc.
Serves 6
Ingredients
1 teaspoon whole allspice berries
5 garlic cloves, halved
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 jalapeño pepper, halved
1½ to 2 pounds (700 to 900 grams) manioc (also known as cassava, tapioca, or yuca)
¼ cup coconut or vegetable oil, plus additional for frying
1 large onion, julienned (see Knife Skills)
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 can (14 ounces or 400 ml) coconut milk
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus additional
1 can (14 ounces or 398 ml) kidney beans, drained
1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1½ to 2 pounds (700 to 900 grams) unripe (green) plantains
Crush the allspice berries lightly in a mortar with a pestle, or on a cutting board with the side of a knife. To make a bouquet garni, wrap the allspice, 1 garlic clove, the thyme, and the jalapeño together in a square of cheesecloth and tie with string, or enclose the items in a large tea ball. Set the bouquet garni aside.
Peel the manioc, remove the large central vein, and cut into 2-inch chunks.
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium flame until shimmering. Add the onions and fry until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the turmeric and cook 30 seconds. Add the manioc, coconut milk, bouquet garni, and ½ teaspoon salt. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the manioc is tender, 35 to 40 minutes. Mash the root pieces lightly with the back of a fork and add the beans. Continue to cook, uncovered, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, another 5 to 10 minutes. Season to taste, cover, and keep warm over low.
Meanwhile, combine the remaining garlic, the ginger, and the peppercorns with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a mortar. Pound to a smooth paste with the pestle.
Cut the ends off the plantains and slit the skin lengthwise. Remove the peel in chunks. Shred the plantain on the biggest holes of a grater into a bowl. Add the garlic paste and mix until well combined.
In a large frying pan, heat 2 inches of oil to 340°F over medium-high flame. Drop the plantains by tablespoons into the hot oil, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Fry until just golden (not brown), turning once, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle lightly with salt, and keep warm in the oven.
Serve both hot, with rice and a big pitcher of Mamacita’s Sangria for a Caribbean feast worthy of Father Fogden.
Notes
• If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, smash the garlic with the side of a knife and cover with the salt. Add the ginger and continue to smash with the side of your knife until you have a paste. Mix 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper into the paste.
• No allspice? Stir in ½ teaspoon cinnamon, a pinch of ground cloves, and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg with the turmeric.
“Survey?” Brianna took two of the little potato dumplings and sat down beside Roger, automatically passing him one. “It’s for surveying?”
“Among other things.” Jamie turned the astrolabe over and gently pushed the flat bar, making the notched sights revolve. “This bit—it’s used as a transit. Ye’ll ken what that is?”
Brianna nodded, looking interested.
“Sure. I know how to do different sorts of surveying, but we generally used . . .”
I saw Roger grimace as he swallowed, the roughness of the stovie catching at his throat. I lifted my hand toward the water pitcher, but he caught my eye and shook his head, almost imperceptibly. He swallowed again, more easily this time, and coughed.
—The Fiery Cross, chapter 77, “A Package from London”
There are millions of Scots and their descendants around the world, most with their own recipe for stovies, from the Scots verb to stove, meaning “to stew.” This classic and simple fare of potatoes cooked slowly with stock and fat is traditionally made on a Monday to use up the leftovers from Sunday dinner. Below is a vegetarian version, including turnips and carrots to add variety and color.
Serves 4 as a main dish or 6 as a side
Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, cut into ½-inch slices
2 garlic cloves, quartered
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
4 to 6 large bay leaves
2 pounds (900 grams or 3 to 4 medium) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges
½ small turnip, peeled and cut into ½-inch wedges
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
3 fresh rosemary sprigs
¼ cup Vegetable Stock
Heat the butter and olive oil in a large pot over medium until bubbling. Add the onions, garlic, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions start to soften, 3 minutes.
Empty the contents of the pan into a bowl. With the pot off the heat, line the bottom with the bay leaves. Add a layer of potatoes, a few turnip and carrot pieces, some of the onions and garlic, and a sprig of rosemary. Season generously with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining vegetables, rosemary, and more salt and pepper, finishing with a layer of seasoned potatoes.
Return the pot to the stove, pour in the stock, and bring to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, reduce to low, and cook for about 1 hour, until everything is very tender and the bottom of the pot is almost dry. Discard the bay leaves and rosemary and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Serve hot with Oxford Baked Beans.
Keep leftovers in the refrigerator up to 5 days.
Notes
• For a slightly more exotic flavor, substitute curry leaves or kaffir lime leaves for the bay leaves.
• To make a meat-eaters main dish, layer in shredded leftover cooked meat such as Roast Beef for a Wedding Feast or crisped and crumbled bacon.
Diana Gabaldon’s Cheese Enchiladas
A family recipe straight from Diana and her late father, Tony Gabaldon. Get everything prepped and organized before you start to roll your enchiladas to avoid getting sauce on every surface of the kitchen.
Makes 12
Ingredients
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus additional for frying
4 garlic cloves, grated or minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups tomato sauce (Diana uses El Pato brand, which has red chile pepper already in it)
Red chile pepper to taste (minced fresh, frozen, or flakes)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 dozen corn tortillas
1 pound (450 grams) cheddar cheese (see Notes), shredded, plus additional
1 small onion, minced (see Knife Skills)
Method
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over medium flame. When it is shimmering, add the garlic, stirring constantly until just golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir to form a smooth paste. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and stir quickly to avoid lumps, then add 2 cups water and stir to combine. Taste and add red chile as desired (see Notes). Cook over medium-low heat until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Season with salt, cover, and keep warm over low heat.
Move a rack to the middle rung and heat the oven to 375°F.
Arrange a 13 x 9-inch baking dish and a clean dinner plate on the counter next to the stove, along with the tortillas, cheese, and onions. Pour enough of the enchilada sauce into the bottom of the baking dish to coat the bottom lightly.
In a small frying pan, heat ½ inch vegetable oil over medium-high flame until shimmering. With a pair of tongs, dip a fresh corn tortilla into the hot oil for 2 to 3 seconds (just long enough for the oil to sputter). Let the excess oil run off into the pan, then dip the tortilla into the enchilada sauce to coat both sides.
Lay the sauce-coated tortilla on the dinner plate and spread a handful of cheese in a thick line across the center (you’re aiming for a cylinder about two fingers thick). Sprinkle the onions lightly over the cheese. Roll the tortilla into a cylinder and arrange in the baking dish, seam side down. Repeat until all the tortillas are used.
When the baking dish is full, ladle the remaining sauce over the enchiladas to cover them generously, and sprinkle additional cheese on top for garnish. Bake until the cheese is well melted, bubbling, and the enchiladas look slightly smaller and sunken, 25 to 30 minutes. Rest 10 minutes before serving.
Serve hot with lots of pico de gallo—a salsa made of fresh-cut tomato, onions, cilantro, and lime that makes a tasty, palate-cleansing accompaniment to a plate of cheesy enchiladas.
Notes
• If using minced raw red peppers, start with 2 tablespoons and increase if you want more heat. If using chilies in powdered form, add a couple of pinches, allow the sauce to sit for 15 minutes, then taste and add more if desired.
• Monterey Jack cheese is a delicious addition to the enchiladas before putting them in the oven, but you can use more cheddar or any cheese of your choice.
• Enchiladas freeze well before baking. The tortillas break down slightly, resulting in more of a casserole, but given the work and mess involved in assembly, it’s well worth the effort to double the recipe and put a few away for another day.
