Think of this sweet and juicy steak from the very downtown plate cut as the flank steak’s less inhibited cousin. Shaped like a belt and more flexible than the flank, it can be stuffed and rolled more easily as well as cooked flat. Nonetheless, either cut can substitute for the other in most recipes.
Long a virtual secret reserved to ethnic diners, the skirt steak was thrust into the spotlight when the fajita enjoyed its fifteen minutes of mass popularity. (Prepared well, as in Three-Pepper Fajitas made with freshly-grilled flank or skirt steak, fajitas are still delicious.)
For the Best Ever skirt steak, try Broiled Skirt Steak with an Asian Accent.You’ll enjoy this worldly cut, too, when barbecued in the Korean style, served with a Caribbean Sauce or curried with a yogurt relish.
This pleasantly spiced, juicy steak is a treat anytime. But when I serve it with scrambled eggs and home-fried potatoes, it becomes the linchpin for a lively Sunday brunch. This is the original expandable brunch when you think of steak as an accordion. I have served a skirt steak to as few as four and as many as ten. If unexpected guests show up, I just slice the meat thinner. It is not a spontaneous occasion, however. I parboil a quarter of a pound of potatoes per person the day before and marinate the steak overnight. I also make sure I have at least two eggs per person on hand and Champagne or a chilled light red wine such as Beaujolais.
1 or 2 skirt steaks (1 to 1½ pounds total)
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon chili powder
1 canned chipotle chili pepper plus 1 teaspoon of the juice
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup vegetable oil Salt, to taste
1. Pat the steak or steaks dry cut in half crosswise, and place in a nonreactive dish or gallon-size Ziploc plastic bag.
2. Combine the thyme, sherry, vinegar, lemon juice, cumin, chili powder, chipotle pepper and juice, wine, and oil in a blender or food processor and blend to purée. Pour over the steak and cover the pan or seal the bag. Refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
3. Remove the steak from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. Preheat the broiler or prepare coals for grilling.
4. Broil or grill the steak until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook for 2½ minutes more for medium-rare or 3 minutes for medium. Transfer the steak to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Cut the meat on the bias across the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. The meat will look rarer than it is. Sprinkle with salt before serving.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Note: To cut cooked skirt steak or flank steak across the grain, angle the knife slightly horizontally to cut at a slant instead of vertically.
Here is one of the most basic, and tastiest, ways to prepare this easy-to-cook cut. Serve it with carry-out coleslaw or fried rice and you will have reduced cooking time to close to zero.
1 skirt steak (about 1 pound)
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup rice wine or dry white wine
¼ cup chopped scallions, white only
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
1. Arrange the skirt steak in a shallow dish just large enough to hold it, cutting it in half if necessary. Combine the soy sauce, wine, scallions, vinegar, and ginger in a small bowl and stir well. Pour this marinade over the meat. Cover the dish and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours, turning the meat once.
2. Preheat the broiler or prepare coals for grilling.
3. Drain the meat and pat it dry. Broil or grill until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook the meat for 2 minutes more. Because of the uneven shape of the steak, it will be cooked from rare to medium-well. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.
4. Cut across the grain on the bias into thin slices and serve.
SERVES 3 OR 4
In the Heartland, we save this combination for August when the local tomatoes are achingly ripe and there’s fresh corn in every farmstand and market. I keep the steak marinade simple so it won’t intrude on the subtle fresh flavor of the sauce. A hint: Make the tomato sauce at the last minute so that it won’t become soggy with excess juices.
1 skirt steak (1 to 1¼ pounds)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup vegetable oil
1 medium tomato, seeded and diced
1 small red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced (see page 88)
¼ cup diced sweet onion
¼ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin
1. Pat the steak dry and place it in a shallow dish or bowl. Combine ¼ cup of the lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the basil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper in a small bowl. Stir in the vegetable oil. Pour this marinade over the steak, coating all sides. Cover the dish and marinate the steak in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours, turning once.
2. Prepare coals for grilling or preheat the broiler.
3. Combine the tomato, bell pepper, and onion in a bowl. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon basil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Stir in the olive oil and remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.
4. Remove the steak from the marinade and pat it dry. Broil or grill until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook for 2 minutes more. Because of the uneven shape of the steak, it will be cooked from rare to medium-well. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Cut on the bias across the grain into thin slices. Serve with the tomato sauce.
SERVES 4
This meat and relish preparation is nearly effortless, perfect for casual summer entertaining or a backyard family meal. Choose either of these two particularly good accompaniments to complete the menu: Okra with Onions and Toasted Cumin or Hot Bulgur Salad (see Index).
1 skirt steak or flank steak (1 to 1¼ pounds)
1 tablespoon curry powder
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup plain lowfat yogurt, drained of excess liquid
½ cup peeled and chopped English (seedless) cucumber
¼ cup minced scallions, white only
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
¼ teaspoon white pepper Salt, to taste
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. Cut the steak in half for easier handling. Pat dry and arrange flat in a shallow pan. Mix the curry powder and oil together in a small dish. Brush this mixture on all sides of the meat, coating well. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour or in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
2. Combine the yogurt with the cucumber, scallions, cilantro, white pepper, ½ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in a medium-size bowl. Stir to mix the ingredients thoroughly. (The relish may be made ahead and kept refrigerated until 30 minutes before serving.)
3. If the meat has been refrigerated, remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Prepare coals for grilling or preheat the broiler.
4. Grill or broil the meat until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook for 3 minutes more for rare or 4 minutes more for medium. Sprinkle the meat lightly with salt after turning to cook the second side. When cooked, transfer it to a cutting board. Let rest for 5 minutes. Cut the meat on the bias into ¼-inch-thick slices, and arrange on warmed plates. Spoon the yogurt relish alongside the meat.
SERVES 3 OR 4
Mustard has a sublime affinity for beef in general and steak in particular. For proof, try these mustard creations with a steak. Mustard Butter is simplicity itself. On top of a hot broiled or panbroiled steak, this composed butter gradually melts, flavoring the meat and juices.
Handmade Caper Mustard is very well suited to grilled or broiled flank or skirt steak or as a spread on bread for a steak sandwich.
MUSTARD BUTTER
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tablespoon minced shallots
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
1. Combine the mustard, parsley, and shallots in a small bowl. Blend thoroughly with a small whisk. Cut the butter (it should be soft but not melted) into several pieces and add them to the bowl. Whisk vigorously until well blended. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Spread a sheet of plastic wrap on the table. Using a rubber spatula, transfer the butter to the plastic wrap. Push and shape the butter into a log the diameter of a 25-cent piece. Roll up in the plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze.
3. Allow the butter to come to a temperature at which it is easy to cut. Cut ¼-inch-thick slices and place them on top of a hot steak. Freeze or refrigerate remaining butter for a future meal.
SERVES 8
HANDMADE CAPER MUSTARD
3 tablespoons mustard seeds
⅓ cup dry mustard
½ cup hot water
½ cup white wine vinegar, preferably tarragon flavored
½ cup dry white wine
1 large sprig fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons capers, the smaller the better, rinsed and drained
1. Combine the mustard seeds, dry mustard, water, and vinegar in a small bowl. Cover and set aside for at least 3 hours.
2. Pour the wine into a nonreactive saucepan. Add the tarragon sprig, bring to a boil, and strain over the mustard seed mixture. Stir in the salt, sugar, and capers. Purée in a food processor or blender until smooth.
3. Return to the saucepan and cook over very low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes. Transfer the mustard to a bowl and let it cool. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 24 hours before using.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
In an era of free-form cooking when the disparate elements employed in the name of fusion cuisine often refuse to fuse, David Schy, chef-owner of Chicago’s popular Hubbard Street Grill, has emerged as a master at shaping complex flavor combinations into coherent finished dishes. His skirt steak recipe can become the centerpiece of a party menu that might include fish, soup or salad, rice and black beans, a rum-flavored tropical fruit dessert, and Red Stripe beer from Jamaica. When your guests learn what’s on the menu and ask to bring friends, simply double the recipe.
3 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup pineapple juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon dry red wine
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
¾ teaspoon dried basil
¾ teaspoon granulated garlic
¾ teaspoon ground ginger
¾ teaspoon ground allspice
¾ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup commercial barbecue sauce, such as K.C. Masterpiece hickory
½ cup Ketchapeño (see Note)
2 tablespoons honey
2 or 3 skirt steaks (about 3 pounds total)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
¼ cup olive oil
1. Make the sauce 1 or 2 days ahead. Combine the soy sauce, Worcestershire, pineapple juice, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, the vinegar, wine, oregano, basil, granulated garlic, ginger, allspice, five-spice powder, red pepper flakes, ¾ teaspoon black pepper, and salt in a large saucepan. Stir in the barbecue sauce, Ketchapeño, and honey. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, stirring frequently, to blend the flavors. Allow sauce to cool. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill the meat.
2. Cut the steaks crosswise into 12 pieces. Arrange them in a nonreactive pan or baking dish. Combine the minced garlic, remaining tablespoon lime juice, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, and olive oil in a small bowl. Stir well and coat the steaks. Cover and marinate the steaks in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours.
3. Prepare coals for grilling or preheat the broiler.
4. Reheat the sauce to boiling. Lower the heat and simmer while cooking the steak. Grill or broil the steaks, in batches if necessary, until seared and nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook for 2 minutes more for medium-rare or 3 minutes for medium. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Cut the steaks on the bias across the grain into thin slices. Serve on a platter, accompanied by the warm sauce.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Note: Ketchapeño is a tomato-based condiment Chef Schy developed. It is marketed in major cities. If unavailable, substitute ½ cup ketchup mixed with 1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce.
The Koreans are masters at marinating and seasoning beef. They also enjoy grilling to such an extent they have created special tables with dome-shaped metal grills in their restaurants so seated guests can cook their own meat. Lacking such a table, an oven broiler will cook the meat adequately But I prefer to use a ridged grill pan. (Victor is the brand name of mine, and Victor’s right at home in a house where a number of inanimate objects have human names.) The marinade’s sweet-salty tug-of-war and its heavy accent of sesame makes the meat irresistible. The marinade works equally well with short ribs. Serve with bottled kim-chee (“mild” on the label provides cabbage that is hot enough for me) and rice.
1 skirt steak (about 1¼ pounds) trimmed of fat, well chilled
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
½ cup minced scallions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons sugar
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon dry sherry or white wine
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1. Cut the steak on the bias into ⅜-inch-thick slices. You should have 27 to 30 pieces. Place the slices in a single layer in a shallow pan or platter. Set aside. Toast the sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium-low heat, tossing often, until golden and aromatic, about 5 minutes. Grind the seeds in a mortar with a pestle or in a spice grinder.
2. Combine the ground seeds with the scallions, garlic, pepper, sugar, soy sauce, sherry, and sesame oil in a small bowl. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and the ingredients are well mixed. Pour this marinade evenly over the steak. Marinate for 1 hour, turning the meat once.
3. Coat a ridged grill pan with the vegetable oil or line an oven broiler pan with aluminum foil and heat. When very hot, add 9 pieces of beef directly from the marinade to the grill pan in rows of 3. Cook until seared and nicely browned, 1½ minutes. Turn the meat, and cook 1 minute more for rare or 1½ minutes more for medium-rare. Transfer the cooked meat to a plate and keep warm. Repeat until all the slices are cooked. If using a broiler, cook the meat in 2 batches, allowing the same amount of time as in the grill pan. Serve at once.
Chef Joho, who made his reputation as an innovator high above Chicago in his elegant fortieth floor aerie, Everest, came down to earth in 1995 to establish the casual and constantly bustling Brasserie Jo. While the chef uses his right hand to combine truffles and filet at Everest, his left is creating tastes just as special at Brasserie Jo. In one dish he presents fragrant herbs and humble skirt steak in a beautiful pinwheel pattern. For this dish I’ve simplified the presentation. Serve this steak brasserie style, with home-fried potatoes and a garnish of watercress. Drink Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône.
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 skirt steak (about 1¼ pounds)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Dash of Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ tablespoon oil, preferably grape seed
⅓ cup beef broth
1. Combine the rosemary, thyme, and ½ cup of the parsley in a small bowl. Mix well.
2. Cut the skirt steak crosswise into four equal pieces. Place one piece of steak on a sheet of plastic wrap. Cover with one-quarter of the mixed herbs. Top with a second piece of meat to make a sandwich and sprinkle another one-quarter of the herb mixture on top. Fold the plastic wrap over the meat and herbs to make a tight package. Repeat the process with remaining meat and herbs to make a second sandwich. Wrap it tightly and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.
3. Place the butter in a small bowl. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, the lemon juice, and the Worcestershire and beat with a whisk to combine the ingredients. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook the meat.
4. Remove the meat from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and discard the plastic wrap. Remove the flavored butter from the refrigerator as well. Season the layered steaks with salt and pepper.
5. Heat the oil in a skillet large enough to hold both sandwiches in a single layer. When hot, add the steaks, herb-free side down. Sear the steaks for 1 minute, then pour in the broth, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan. Simmer the steaks until each layer is rare to medium-rare, 10 to 12 minutes.
6. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let rest 2 minutes. Slice each sandwich crosswise into eight equal pieces. Portion onto warm plates, top each portion with a dollop of parsley butter, and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
