INDEX

A  |  B  |  C  |  D  |  E
F  |  G  |  H  |  I  |  J
K  |  L  |  M  |  N  |  O
P  |  Q  |  R  |  S  |  T
U  |  V  |  W  |  Y  |  Z

A

Adams, Jerome, 230

Aging beef, 3-5

Agriculture Department, U.S., 9

Al’s (St.Louis), 56

An American Place (New York), 124

Ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s stuffed filets with, 19-20

Appetizers. See First courses and appetizers

Apple, R.W. (Johnny), 40

Apple-Stilton coleslaw, English, 199-200

Apricots, in summer fruit cobbler, 225

Arm steak, 119

Artichokes, braised potatoes and, 77-78

Arugula, beef tenderloin with, 25

Asian:

accent, broiled skirt steak with, 165

barbecued skirt steak Korean style, 170-71

beef salad with cucumber, 20-21

beef salad with Thai seasonings, 110-11

-flavored watercress, sliced T- bone with, 39

Japanese-style steak with vegetables, 103-4

orange beef, 144

shaking beef cubes, Germaine Swanson’s, 31-32

Siam country steak, 142-43

steak and noodles, Vietnamese style, 104-5

steak with stir-fried beans and sprouts, 138-39

surf and turf, 18-19

Thai red beef curry, 157

Avocado(s):

mango guacamole, 185

sauce, eye round steaks with peanut sauce and, 139-40

B

Bacon:

winter vegetable salad with pancetta, 193-94

T-bone steak dressed in the Posto style, 37-38

Baked steak with pan gravy, 126-27

Baker, Charles H., 107

Balsamic vinegar, 41

Bananas:

Clarence, 223

Nicole’s Moroccan steak casserole, 148-49

Barbecued:

skirt steak Korean style, 170-71

see also Grilled

Barbecue mayonnaise, 67

Barbecue sauce, 40

butt steak braised in, 106

making, 175

Barocci, Nancy, 197

Barthes, Roland, 84

Basil, rib-eye with green peppers and, 95-97

Bayview Yacht Club (Detroit), 230

Beans:

black, in rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

cowboy, 196

fava, in T-bone steak dressed in the Posto style, 37-38

old country rice and, 213

Texas-style chili, 112

Tuscan potatoes and, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

see also Green beans

Beard, James, 6, 43-44, 75, 131, 177

Béarnaise sauce, Chateaubriand with, 23-24

Beauty steak. See Chuck eye

Beef:

aging, 3-5

consumption statistics for, 152

grading, 6, 9

see also Steak; specific cuts

Beefsteak Club, 122

Beer:

brewed chuck steak, 125-26

and cheese spread, pre-game, 184

mustard sauce, sweet-hot, 88-89

sauce, dark, 124-25

serving with steak, 80

Beets:

doggie bag steak salad, 72

winter vegetable salad with pancetta, 193-94

Bergere, Nicole, 48, 148

Bern’s (Tampa), 55, 80

Berry(ies):

shortcake, 226-27

summer fruit cobbler, 225

Tuttaposto’s grilled dessert pizza, 222-23

Beurre rouge, Pinot Noir, 86

Beverages. See Drinks

Bielunski, Marlys, 8, 90-91

Biscuits, 226

Black beans, in rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

Black Irish coffee, 231

Blade steak(s), 119

homage to pot roast, 127-28

Blandino, John, 65

Bloody Mary steak and sauce, 101-2

Blueberries:

berry shortcake, 226-27

summer fruit cobbler, 225

Boarding house dining, 114-15

Boiling, 8

Bone, closing gaps created by removal of, 38

Bottom round, 135

braised, with sweet-and-sour sauce, 145

Bourbon:

caramel sauce, 230

whiskey sour made simple, 179

Boxed beef, 4

Braised:

artichokes and potatoes, 77-78

beauty steak with mushrooms, 121-22

beef with sweet-and-sour sauce, 145

beer brewed chuck steak, 125-26

butt steak, in barbecue sauce, 106

herbed skirt steak, Jean Joho’s, 171-72

homage to pot roast, 127-28

Braising, 8, 90, 119-20

Branded meat, taste test of, 90-91

Brasserie Jo (Chicago), 171-72

Bread:

great garlic, 200-201

pudding, rich raisin, 229

spinach spoon, soufflé, 215-16

Brisket, 3

Broiled:

Asian beef salad with cucumber, 20-21

Asian steak with stir-fried beans and sprouts, 138-39

Bloody Mary steak and sauce, 101-2

butt steak, Charlie’s, 107-8

cheese steak sandwich with barbecue mayonnaise, Saloon’s, 67-68

cold filet with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

cracked-pepper rib-eye steak with roasted onion sauce, 94-95

curried skirt steak with yogurt relish, 167

eye round steaks with peanut and avocado sauces, 139-40

flank steak sandwiches with red pepper-dill ketchup, 159-161

flank steak with shallots, 155

jerk beauty steak, 123

Palm’s steak à la Stone, 65-66

porterhouse steak with herbs and tomatoes, Tony Terlato’s, 49-50

porterhouse with shallot-lemon butter, 47

red flag flank steak, 156

rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

rib-eye steak with tangy caper sauce, 92

sirloin kebabs with yogurt sauce, 109-10

skirt steak with an Asian accent, 165

skirt steak with Caribbean sauce, David Schy’s, 169-70

skirt steak with fresh tomato sauce, 166

sliced porterhouse with Nicole Bergere’s garlic butter sauce, 48-49

sliced T-bone with Asian-flavored watercress, 39

spicy skirt steak, 164

strip steak with Italian tomato sauce, 63-64

strip steak with Spanish cheese sauce, 64-65

stuffed filets with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

T-bone steak with tomato-green peppercorn butter, 35-36

top round, with red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

wine-bathed sirloin, 100

see also Pan-broiled

Broiling, 8, 61-62, 90

fat and, 66

frozen, refrigerated, or room-temperature steak, 159

see also Pan-broiling

Brownie nut pie, 227

Brunch fare:

short-order steak and eggs, 71

spicy skirt steak, 164

Bulgur salad, hot, 198

Burger, herb, 177

Busha Browne’s Spicy and Hot Pepper Sherry, 41

Butcher shops, 6

Butter(s):

composed, 46

Greek olive, 102-3

mustard, 168

Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

sauce, garlic-scented, 48-49

shallot-lemon, 47

tomato-green peppercorn, 35-36

Butt steak(s), 99

braised in barbecue sauce, 106

Charlie’s, 107-8

Siam country, 142-43

Buying steak, 5-6

C

Cabbage:

beef salad with Thai seasonings, 110-11

celery seed coleslaw, 199

English apple-Stilton coleslaw, 199-200

and fennel salad with goat cheese, Tapawingo’s, 192

napa, in Japanese-style steak with vegetables, 103-4

napa, in pancetta and winter vegetable salad, 193-94

Cajun Power Garlic Sauce, 41

Calories, 3

Caper:

mustard, handmade, 168

sauce, tangy, 92

Caramel sauce, bourbon, 230

Caribbean:

blush, 179

jerk beauty steak, 123

sauce, David Schy’s skirt steak with, 169-70

Carving, 96

porterhouse steak, 43-44

resting before, 78, 96

Carving boards, 132

Casserole, Nicole’s Moroccan steak, 148-49

Cast-iron cookware:

enameled casseroles, 133

frying pans, 133

seasoning, 133

Cattle drives, 113-14, 151, 152

Celery root, in more than mashed potatoes, 207

Celery seed coleslaw, 199

Cetta brothers, 55

Charlie’s butt steak, 107-8

Chateaubriand, 13

with béarnaise sauce, 23-24

Cheese:

and beer spread, pre-game, 184

goat, Tapawingo’s fennel and cabbage salad with, 192

Parmesan and fennel salad, 190-91

sauce, Spanish, strip steak with, 64-65

steak sandwich, Philadelphia, 31

steak sandwich, uptown, 30-31

steak sandwich with barbecue mayonnaise, Saloon’s, 67-68

Stilton-apple coleslaw, English, 199-200

Chiakulas, John, 218

Chicago, meat industry in, 151-52

Chicago Chop House, 52

Chicken-fried cube steak with pan gravy, 176

Chicken liver pâté, lush, 186

Chili(es):

ancho, sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s stuffed filets with, 19-20

jerk beauty steak, 123

red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

red flag flank steak, 156

three-pepper fajitas, 158-59

Chili, Texas-style, 112

Chinese orange beef, 144

Chocolate:

brownie nut pie, 227

Mississippi mud pie, 228

Choice beef, 6, 9

taste test of, 90-91

Cholesterol, 3

Chopping boards, 132

Chops (Atlanta), 56

Chuck, 3, 76, 119-31

homage to pot roast, 127-28

Chuck eye, 119, 120

braised beauty steak with mushrooms, 121-22

grilled beauty steak with dark beer sauce, 124-25

jerk beauty steak, 123

Chuck steak, 119

baked, with pan gravy, 126-27

beer brewed, 125-26

braising, 119-20

knife-and-fork beef stew, 129-30

superior steak hash, 130-31

wines to serve with, 81

Chuck wagon cooking, 113-14

City (Los Angeles), 22

Clark, Mike, 84

Cobbler, summer fruit, 225

Cocktails. See Drinks

Coffee:

black Irish, 231

ice cream, in Mississippi mud pie, 228

Cold filet with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

Coleslaw:

celery seed, 199

English apple-Stilton, 199-200

Columbus, Christopher, 151

Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery, The (Beard), 75

Condiments, 40-41

barbecue mayonnaise, 67

handmade caper mustard, 168

hot pepper giardiniera, Gibsons, 201-2

infused horseradish oil, 108

red pepper-dill ketchup, 159-60

yogurt relish, 167

see also Butter(s); Sauces

Connective tissue, 3, 8

Consorzio Flavored Oils, 122

Consumption of beef, statistics on, 152

Convito Italiano, 197

Cooking steak perfectly, 6-8

doneness and, 7-8

straight from freezer or refrigerator, 8

Corn:

doggie bag steak salad, 72

tomato salsa for grilled steak, 216

Coronado, Francisco Vasquez de, 151

Cortes, Hernando, 151

Couscous salad with plum tomatoes, 190

Cowboy beans, 196

Cracked-pepper rib-eye steak with roasted onion sauce, 94-95

Cream:

gravy, onion, 136

sauce, horseradish, 69-70

Cryovac, 4, 5

Cube steak(s), 135, 173

chicken-fried, with pan gravy, 176

Cucumber:

Asian beef salad with, 20-21

white gazpacho, 187

Cumin:

okra with onions and toasted, 204

orange vinaigrette, Monique King’s, cold filet with, 22

Curry(ied):

skirt steak with yogurt relish, 167

Thai red beef, 157

Custard cups, 133

D

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

Daiquiri, Hemingway’s, 179

Denton, Jody, 185

Depression, Great, 152

Desserts, 221-31

bananas Clarence, 223

berry shortcake, 226-27

black Irish coffee, 231

bourbon caramel sauce, 230

brownie nut pie, 227

grilled pizza, Tuttaposto’s, 222-23

hummer, 230-31

Mississippi mud pie, 228

rich raisin bread pudding, 229

summer fruit cobbler, 225

warm strawberry gratin, 224

Diet, 160

Dill-red pepper ketchup, 159-60

Dips:

Italian eggplant and pesto, 184-85

mango guacamole, 185

see also Spreads

Doe’s Eat Place (Greenville, Miss.), 53

Doggie bag:

steak salad, 72

steak sandwich, 73

see also Leftovers, dishes to make with

Doneness, 7-8

Drinks, 178-79

black Irish coffee, 231

Caribbean blush, 179

Hemingway’s daiquiri, 179

hummer, 230-31

my martini, 178-79

Queen Maida’s margarita, 179

whiskey sour made simple, 179

Dry-aging, 4-5

Dry-heat cooking methods, 8

E

Eccentric (Chicago), 185

Eggplant:

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

grilled flank steak with red pepper and, 154

Nicole’s Moroccan steak casserole, 148-49

and pesto dip, Italian, 184-85

Eggs, short-order steak and, 71

Enameled cast-iron casseroles, 133

English apple-Stilton coleslaw, 99-200

Equipment, 132-33

Escarole, in Italian-style greens, 202

Everest (Chicago), 171-72

Eye round steaks, 135

Asian, with stir-fried beans and sprouts, 138-39

with onion-cream gravy, 136

with peanut and avocado sauces, 139-40

F

Fabulous fried zucchini, 189

Fajitas, three-pepper, 158-59

Famous Fiorentina, 34

Fat, 2, 3, 5, 66, 161

closing gaps created by removal of, 38

Fava beans, in T-bone steak dressed in the Posto style, 37-38

Feniger, Susan, 22

Fennel:

and cabbage salad with goat cheese, Tapawingo’s, 192

and Parmesan salad, 190-91

Fenzl, Barbara Pool, 19

Fertel, Ruth, 54

Filet(s) mignon(s), 13, 14

Asian beef salad with cucumber, 20-21

cold, with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

steak and potato salad, 16-17

stuffed, with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

true steak au poivre, 15-16

Filet steak(s), 6, 8, 13

salad, doggie bag, 72

wines to serve with, 81

Fiorentina, famous, 34

First courses and appetizers, 183-94

Asian beef salad with cucumber, 20-21

couscous salad with plum tomatoes, 190

doggie bag steak salad, 72

fabulous fried zucchini, 189

fennel and cabbage salad with goat cheese, Tapawingo’s, 192

fennel and Parmesan salad, 190-91

Italian eggplant and pesto dip, 184-85

lush chicken liver páté, 186

mango guacamole, 185

mushroom strudel, Allen Sternweiler’s, 203-4

pancetta and winter vegetable salad, 193-94

pre-game beer and cheese spread, 184

shellfish and mushroom appetizer, 188

steak and potato salad, 16-17

white gazpacho, 187

Flank (cut), 3

Flank steak(s), 153-161

curried, with yogurt relish, 167

grilled, wtih eggplant and red pepper, 154

red flag, 156

sandwiches with red pepper-dill ketchup, 159-161

with shallots, 155

Thai red beef curry, 157

three-pepper fajitas, 158-59

wines to serve with, 81

Fore shank, 3

Forgione, Larry, 124

Four Seasons Hotel (New York), 211

French:

rib-eye with Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

true steak au poivre, 15-16

Fried:

zucchini, fabulous, 189

see also Pan-fried

Fries, steak, without the fryer, 210

Frozen steaks:

grilling or broiling, 159

sirloin, taste test of, 90-91

Fruit cobbler, summer, 225

Frying pans, cast-iron, 133

G

Gallagher’s (New York), 4, 5

Garlic:

bread, great, 200-201

butter sauce, 48-49

Cajun Power Sauce, 41

peeling, 147

Gazpacho, white, 187

Gene and Georgetti (Chicago), 54-55, 191

Gentleman’s Companion, The (Baker), 107

Germaine’s (Washington, D.C.), 31

Ghahreman, Azmin, 73

Giardiniera, Gibsons hot pepper, 201-2

Gibsons (Chicago), 52, 56, 83, 201

Goat cheese, Tapawingo’s fennel and cabbage salad with, 192

Golden Ox (Kansas City), 54

Grading beef, 6, 9

Grain, 96

Gratin, warm strawberry, 224

Gravy:

onion-cream, 136

pan, 126-27, 176

Great garlic bread, 200-201

Greek:

olive butter, grilled sirloin with, 102-3

sirloin kebabs with yogurt sauce, 109-10

Green beans:

Asian steak with stir-fried sprouts and, 138-39

doggie bag steak salad, 72

Greens, Italian-style, 202

Greer, Anne Lindsay, 112

The Grill (Beverly Hills), 56

Grilled:

beauty steak with dark beer sauce, 124-25

beef rolls on a skewer, John Pisto’s, 27-28

Bloody Mary steak and sauce, 101-2

cold filet with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

cracked-pepper rib-eye steak with roasted onion sauce, 94-95

curried skirt steak with yogurt relish, 167

dessert pizza, Tuttaposto’s, 222-23

famous Fiorentina, 34

flank steak with eggplant and red pepper, 154

flank steak with shallots, 155

giant porterhouse with sherry-shallot vinaigrette, 50-51

jerk beauty steak, 123

porterhouse steak with herbs and tomatoes, Tony Terlato’s, 49-50

red flag flank steak, 156

rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

Siam country steak, 142-43

sirloin kebabs with yogurt sauce, 109-10

sirloin with Greek olive butter, 102-3

skirt steak with Caribbean sauce, David Schy’s, 169-70

skirt steak with fresh tomato sauce, 166

spicy skirt steak, 164

steaks, tomato-corn salsa as accompaniment for, 216

stuffed filets with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

T-bone steak with tomato-green peppercorn butter, 35-36

three-pepper fajitas, 158-59

top round, with red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

vegetables, Dad’s Day, 219

wine-bathed sirloin, 100

see also Pan-grilled

Grilling, 8

Bill’s six-step guide to, 26-27

fat and, 66

frozen, refrigerated, or room-temperature steak, 159

Grills, ridged stovetop, 133

Ground beef, 9, 173

herb-burger, 177

Guacamole, mango, 185

H

Hash:

herbed potato, 208

superior steak, 130-31

Health concerns, 161

Hearon, Reed, 75, 77

Heatter, Maida, 178

Hemingway’s daiquiri, 179

Herb(ed)(s):

-burger, 177

magnificent mashed potatoes with olive oil and, 206

porterhouse steak with tomatoes and, Tony Terlato’s, 49-50

potato hash, 208

skirt steak, Jean Joho’s, 171-72

Hereford House (Kansas City), 53, 54

Hicks, John D., 151

Hom, Ken, 18

Homage to pot roast, 127-28

Home on the Range (Luchetti), 114

Horseradish, 41

cream sauce, 69-70

oil, infused, 108

Hot:

bulgur salad, 198

pepper giardiniera, Gibsons, 201-2

pepper sauces, 41

Hubbard Street Grill (Chicago), 169

Hummer, 230-31

Hungarian steak soup, 146-47

I

Ice cream:

coffee, in Mississippi mud pie, 228

vanilla, in bananas Clarence, 223

vanilla, in hummer, 230-31

Infused horseradish oil, 108

Iowa Beef Processors, 4

Irish coffee, black, 231

Italian:

beef sandwich, 137

beef tenderloin with arugula, 25

braised beef with sweet-and-sour sauce, 145

eggplant and pesto dip, 184-85

famous Fiorentina, 34

great garlic bread, 200-201

greens, 202

grilled beef rolls on a skewer, John Pisto’s, 27-28

hot pepper giardiniera, Gibsons, 201-2

old country rice and beans, 213

tomato sauce, strip steak with, 63-64

Tuscan beans and potatoes, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

J

Japanese-style steak with vegetables, 103-4

Jerk beauty steak, 123

Jerked beef, 114

Jerusalem artichokes, in winter vegetable salad with pancetta, 193-94

Johnny’s Cafe (Omaha), 54

Joho, Jean, 171-72

Jungle, The (Sinclair), 152

K

Kahlúa, in hummer, 230-31

Keating, Lee, 217

Kebabs, sirloin, with yogurt sauce, 109-10

Ketchup, red pepper-dill, 159-161

King, Monique, 22

Knife-and-fork beef stew, 129-30

Knives, 132

steak, 96, 132

Korean-style barbecued skirt steak, 170-71

L

Laxer, Bern, 55

Lean beef, taste test of, 91

Leek, in more than mashed potatoes, 207

Leftovers, dishes to make with, 74

cold filet with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

doggie bag steak salad, 72

doggie bag steak sandwich, 73

rib steak salad, 79

short-order steak and eggs, 71

steak and potato salad, 16-17

superior steak hash, 130-31

Lemon:

famous Fiorentina, 34

shallot butter, 47

Logging camps, 115

Lombardo, Steve, 83

London Chop House (Detroit), 230

Longhorn cattle, 151, 152

Luchetti, Cathy, 114

Lulu (San Francisco), 77

Lush chicken liver pâté, 186

M

Madeira, in bananas Clarence, 223

Mail order steaks, 232

Mango guacamole, 185

Mantuano, Tony, 222

Margarita, Queen Maida’s, 179

Marinades, tenderizing with, 128

Marryat, Frederick, 115

Martini, my, 178-79

Mashed potatoes:

magnificent, with olive oil and herbs, 206

more than, 207

Maverick Ranch Gold Medal Brand Lean ’n Natural Beef, 91

Mayonnaise:

barbecue, 67

Scandinavian-style, 29

Meat thermometers, 8

Mediterranean:

grilled flank steak with eggplant and red pepper, 154

see also Greek; Italian Medium, 7, 8

Medium-rare, 7, 8

“Memorials of Gourmandizing” (Thackeray), 17

Mexican:

mango guacamole, 185

three-pepper fajitas, 158-59

Middle Ages, 150

Milliken, Mary Sue, 22

Minerals, 161

Mississippi mud pie, 228

Mock tender, 119

Moist-heat cooking methods, 8, 90

Monari Federzori, 41

Moose, Ed, 178

More than mashed potatoes, 207

Moroccan steak casserole, Nicole’s, 148-49

Morris, Nelson, 151

Mortars and pestles, 133

Morton’s (Chicago), 53, 56

Mud pie, Mississippi, 228

Muscle fibers, 3, 96

Mushroom(s):

braised beauty steak with, 21-22

compote, pan-broiled rib-eye with, 87-88

pan-fried potatoes, red peppers and, 209

and shellfish appetizer, 188

strudel, Allen Sternweiler’s, 203-4

wild, wild rice with, 212

Mustard, 40, 168

beer sauce, sweet-hot, 88-89

butter, 168

handmade caper, 168

My martini, 178-79

N

Napa cabbage:

Japanese-style steak with vegetables, 103-4

winter vegetable salad with pancetta, 193-94

National Cattlemen’s Beef Association, 3, 8, 43, 90-91, 120, 152, 161

Natural beef, 2

Nectarines, in summer fruit cobbler, 225

Nonstick pans, 132-33

Noodles, Vietnamese-style steak and, 104-5

Nut brownie pie, 227

O

Oil, infused horseradish, 108

Okra with onions and toasted cumin, 204

Old country rice and beans, 213

Olive butter, Greek, 102-3

Olive oil, magnificent mashed potatoes with herbs and, 206

Onion(s):

cream gravy, 136

okra with toasted cumin and, 204

rings, outrageous, 205

roasted, sauce, 94-95

Open-face tenderloin sandwiches, Scandinavian-style, 29-30

Orange:

beef, 144

-cumin vinaigrette, Monique King’s, cold filet with, 22

Outrageous onion rings, 205

Oven-roasted rib steak with artichokes and potatoes, Lulu’s, 77-78

P

Pacini, Joe, 191

Palm (New York), 53, 54, 65

Palm’s steak à la Stone, 65-66

Pan-broiled:

porterhouse, 45-46

rib-eye with mushroom compote, 87-88

rib-eye with Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

Pan-broiling, 8, 43

Pan-fried:

beef tenderloin with arugula, 25

eye round steaks with onion-cream gravy, 136

orange beef, 144

potatoes, red peppers, and mushrooms, 209

rib steak with shallot sauce, 82

short-order steak and eggs, 71

steak and potato salad, 16-17

steak Diana, 68-69

T-bone steak dressed in the Posto style, 37-38

T-bone steak with six-shooter rub and cowboy beans, 36-37

true steak au poivre, 15-16

Pan-frying (sautéing), 8, 14

Pan gravy, 126-27, 176

Pan-grilled:

barbecued skirt steak Korean style, 170-71

rib-eye with sweet-hot mustard-beer sauce, 88-89

Pans, 133

Pan sauce, 46

Parmesan and fennel salad, 190-91

Parsley, 209

Parsnips, in more than mashed potatoes, 207

Pasta (spaghettini) with golden Valencia tomatoes, 218

Pastry:

mushroom strudel, Allen Sternweiler’s, 203-4

potato pot pie with rosemary cream, 211

Pâté, lush chicken liver, 186

Paterno Imports (Chicago), 49

Peanut:

butter, in Mississippi mud pie, 228

sauce, eye round steaks with avocado sauce and, 139-40

Pellagrio, Luciano, 37

Pepper(corn)(s), 40

cracked-, rib-eye steak with roasted onion sauce, 94-95

green, tomato butter, 35-36

true steak au poivre, 15-16

Pepper(s):

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

green, rib-eye with basil and, 95-97

herbed potato hash, 208

hot, giardiniera, Gibsons, 201-2

hot, sauces, 41

red, dill ketchup, 159-60

red, grilled flank steak with eggplant and, 154

red, pan-fried potatoes, mushrooms and, 209

roasting, 88

three-, fajitas, 158-59

Pesto and eggplant dip, Italian, 184-85

Peter Luger’s (Brooklyn), 43, 55-56

Peterson, Harlan (“Pete”), 192

Philadelphia cheese steak sandwich, 31

Pies:

brownie nut, 227

Mississippi mud, 228

Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

Pisto, John, 27, 219

Pizza, Tuttaposto’s grilled dessert, 222-23

Plantains, in rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

Plaucus, Lucius, 150

Poached:

beef salad with Thai seasonings, 110-11

steak and noodles, Vietnamese style, 104-5

Poaching, 90, 135

Porterhouse steak(s), 6, 8, 43-51

carving, 43-44, 96

grilled giant, with sherry- shallot vinaigrette, 50-51

with herbs and tomatoes, Tony Terlato’s, 49-50

holding together dangling pieces of, 38

pan-broiled (recipe), 45-46

pan-broiling, 43

with shallot-lemon butter, 47

sliced, with Nicole Bergere’s garlic butter sauce, 48-49

Portion size, 6

Posto (Los Angeles), 37

Potato(es):

braised artichokes and, 77-78

hash, herbed, 208

magnificent mashed, with olive oil and herbs, 206

more than mashed, 207

pan-fried red peppers, mushrooms and, 209

pot pie with rosemary cream, 211

steak and, salad, 16-17

steak fries without the fryer, 210

superior steak hash, 130-31

Tuscan beans and, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

Pot pie, potato, with rosemary cream, 211

Pot roast:

braised beef with sweet-and-sour sauce, 145

homage to, 127-28

Pre-game beer and cheese spread, 184

Prime beef, 6, 7, 9

taste test of, 90-91

Protein, 2, 3, 161

Prunes, in Nicole’s Moroccan steak casserole, 148-49

Puck, Wolfgang, 6

Pudding, rich raisin bread, 229

Q, R

Queen Maida’s margarita, 179

Railroads, 151-52

Raisin bread pudding, rich, 229

Ralli, Hugo, 83

Ranchman’s Cafe (Ponder, Tex.), 53

Rare, 7, 8

Red beef curry, Thai, 157

Red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

Red flag flank steak, 156

Refrigerator-temperature steak, 8

grilling or broiling, 159

Relish, yogurt, 167

Resting, 78, 96

Rib(cut), 3, 75

Rib-eye steak(s), 75, 85-97

with basil and green peppers, 95-97

cracked-pepper, with roasted onion sauce, 94-95

with an island accent, 93-94

pan-broiled, with mushroom compote, 87-88

pan-grilled, with sweet-hot mustard-beer sauce, 88-89

with Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

with tangy caper sauce, 92

taste test of, 91

wines to serve with, 81

Rib roast, 75

Ribs, beef, 75, 173

smoked, with Bill’s rub, 174

Rib steak(s), 75-84

cooking methods for, 75-76

oven-roasted, with artichokes and potatoes, Lulu’s, 77-78

salad, 79-80

with shallot sauce, 82

wines to serve with, 81

W.R.’s Chicago cut with Gibsons roasting salt, 83-84

Rice:

and beans, old country, 213

rib-eye steak with an island accent, 93-94

see also Wild rice

Rich raisin bread pudding, 229

Ridged stovetop grills, 133

Roast(ed):

Chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, 23-24

onion sauce, 94-95

rib-eye with basil and green peppers, 95-97

rib steak with artichokes and potatoes, Lulu’s, 77-78

Scandinavian-style open-face tenderloin sandwiches, 29-30

strip, with horseradish cream sauce, 69-70

W.R.’s Chicago cut with Gibsons roasting salt, 83-84

Roasting, 8

peppers, 88

salt, Gibsons, 84

searing and, 75-76

Romaine lettuce, in Italian-style greens, 202

Rosemary cream, potato pot pie with, 211

Round (cut), 3

Round steak(s), 135

Hungarian steak soup, 146-47

wines to serve with, 81

Rubs, 128

Bill’s, 174

six-shooter spice, 37

Rum:

Hemingway’s daiquiri, 179

hummer, 230-31

Rump, 76, 135

Moroccan steak casserole, Nicole’s, 148-49

roast, braised, with sweet- and-sour sauce, 145

Siam country steak, 142-43

Ruth’s Chris, 54

S

St. Elmo’s Steak House (Indianapolis), 54

Salad dressings:

orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

tangy caper sauce, 92

vinaigrette, 16-17

Salads:

Asian beef, with cucumber, 20-21

beef, with Thai seasonings, 110-11

celery seed coleslaw, 199

couscous, with plum tomatoes, 190

doggie bag steak, 72

English apple-Stilton coleslaw, 199-200

fennel and cabbage, with goat cheese, Tapawingo’s, 192

fennel and Parmesan, 190-91

hot bulgur, 198

à la Joe, 191

pancetta and winter vegetable, 193-94

rib steak, 79-80

steak and potato, 16-17

Saloon (Chicago), 52, 67

Salsa, tomato-corn, for grilled steak, 216

Salt, 40

appropriate time for, 51

-crusted butt steak, Charlie’s, 107-8

roasting, Gibsons, 84

Sandwiches:

cheese steak, with barbecue

mayonnaise, Saloon’s, 67-68

doggie bag steak, 73

flank steak, with red pepper- dill ketchup, 159-60

herb-burger, 177

Italian beef, 137

Philadelphia cheese steak, 31

Scandinavian-style open-face tenderloin, 29-30

uptown cheese steak, 30-31

Sauces:

avocado, 139-40

barbecue, 40, 175

béarnaise, 23-24

Bloody Mary, 101-2

bourbon caramel, 230

Cajun Power Garlic, 41

Caribbean, 169-70

dark beer, 124-25

fresh tomato, 166

garlic butter, 48-49

horseradish cream, 69-70

hot pepper, 41

pan, 46

peanut, 139-40

red devil tomatillo, 141-42

roasted onion, 94-95

Scandinavian-style mayonnaise, 29

sherry-shallot vinaigrette, 50-51

steak, 41

sweet-hot mustard-beer, 88-89

tangy caper, 92

wine selection and, 80-81

Worcestershire, 41

yogurt, 110

see also Butter(s)

Sautéing. See Pan-frying

Scallops, in shellfish and mushroom appetizer, 188

Scandinavian-style open-face tenderloin sandwiches, 29-30

Schy, David, 169

Scoozi (Chicago), 218

Searing, 8, 24

roasting and, 75-76

Seasoning cookware, 133

Seasoning mixes:

Gibsons roasting salt, 84

Moroccan, Nicole’s, 149

six-shooter spice rub, 37

Select beef, 6, 9

Selvaggio, Piero, 37

Seven-bone steak, 119

Shaking beef cubes, Germaine Swanson’s, 31-32

Shallot(s):

flank steak with, 155

lemon butter, 47

peeling, 147

sauce, rib steak with, 82

sherry vinaigrette, 50-51

Shellfish:

and mushroom appetizer, 188

surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

Sherry-shallot vinaigrette, 50-51

Shopping for steak, 5-6

Shortcake, berry, 226-27

Short loin, 3

Short-order steak and eggs, 71

Short plate, 3

Shoulder steak, 119

Shrimp:

shellfish and mushroom appetizer, 188

surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

Siam country steak, 142-43

Side dishes, 195-219

braised artichokes and potatoes, 77-78

celery seed coleslaw, 199

cowboy beans, 196

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

English apple-Stilton coleslaw, 199-200

great garlic bread, 200-201

herbed potato hash, 208

hot bulgur salad, 198

hot pepper giardiniera, Gibsons, 201-2

Italian-style greens, 202

magnificent mashed potatoes with olive oil and herbs, 206

more than mashed potatoes, 207

mushroom strudel, Allen Sternweiler’s, 203-4

okra with toasted onions and cumin, 204

old country rice and beans, 213

outrageous onion rings, 205

pan-fried potatoes, red peppers, and mushrooms, 209

potato pot pie with rosemary cream, 211

spaghettini with golden Valencia tomatoes, 218

spinach spoon bread soufflé, 215-16

steak fries without the fryer, 210

steak house spinach, 214

stuffed tomatoes, 217

tomato-corn salsa for grilled steak, 216

Tuscan beans and potatoes, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

wild rice with wild mushrooms, 212

Sinclair, Upton, 152

Sirloin (cut), 3

origin of term, 99

Sirloin steak(s), 6, 99-112

beef salad with Thai seasonings, 110-11

Bloody Mary, and sauce, 101-2

butt steak braised in barbecue sauce, 106

Charlie’s butt steak, 107-8

cooking methods for, 99

fresh vs. frozen, 91

grilled, with Greek olive butter, 102-3

Japanese-style, with vegetables, 103-4

kebabs with yogurt sauce, 109-10

and noodles, Vietnamese style, 104-5

sandwich, doggie bag, 73

taste test of, 90-91

Texas-style chili, 112

wine-bathed, 100

wines to serve with, 81

Sirloin tip, 135

Six-shooter spice rub, 37

Skewers:

grilled beef rolls on, John Pisto’s, 27-28

sirloin kebabs with yogurt sauce, 109-10

Skillets, nonstick, 132-33

Skirt steak(s), 163-72

barbecued, Korean style, 170-71

broiled, with an Asian accent, 165

with Caribbean sauce, David Schy’s, 169-70

curried, with yogurt relish, 167

grilled, with fresh tomato sauce, 166

herbed, Jean Joho’s, 171-72

spicy, 164

wines to serve with, 81

Sliced:

porterhouse with Nicole Bergere’s garlic butter sauce, 48-49

T-bone with Asian-flavored watercress, 39

Smoked beef ribs with Bill’s rub, 174

Soufflé, spinach spoon bread, 215-16

Soul Kitchen (Chicago), 22

Soups:

Hungarian steak, 146-47

white gazpacho, 187

Southwestern:

stuffed filets with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

top round with red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

Spaghettini with golden Valencia tomatoes, 218

Spanish:

cheese sauce, strip steak with, 64-65

white gazpacho, 187

Sparks (New York), 55, 214

Spice mixes:

Bill’s rub, 174

Nicole’s Moroccan, 149

six-shooter rub, 37

Spicy skirt steak, 164

Spinach:

spoon bread soufflé, 215-16

steak house, 214

Spoon bread soufflé, spinach, 215-16

Spreads:

lush chicken liver pâté, 186

pre-game beer and cheese, 184

see also Dips

Sprouts, Asian steak with stir- fried beans and, 138-39

Steak:

cooking perfectly, 6-8

diet and, 160

doneness of, 7-8

in history, 150-52

mail order, 232

making, 2-5

portion size for, 6

shopping for, 5-6

storing, 4, 6

see also specific cuts

“Steak and Chips” (Barthes), 84

Steak fries without the fryer, 210

Steak houses, 7, 52-60, 151, 161

ambiance in, 54

appeal of, 52, 53

cooking methods in, 53-54

list of, 57-60

in smaller towns, 53

styles of, 53

waiters in, 53, 191

wine lists in, 55, 80

Steak house spinach, 214

Steak knives, 96, 132

Steak sauce, 41

Steaming, 8

Sternweiler, Allen, 203

Stewing, 8, 130

Stews:

knife-and-fork beef, 129-30

Texas-style chili, 112

Stilton-apple coleslaw, English, 199-200

Stir-fried:

beans and sprouts, Asian steak with, 138-39

Japanese-style steak with vegetables, 103-4

shaking beef cubes, Germaine Swanson’s, 31-32

Thai red beef curry, 157

Storing steak, 4, 6

Stovetop grills, ridged, 133

Strawberry(ies):

berry shortcake, 226-27

gratin, warm, 224

Strip roast with horseradish cream sauce, 69-70

Strip steak(s) (top loin), 6, 8, 61-73

broiling, 61-62

with Italian tomato sauce, 63-64

Palm’s steak à la Stone, 65-66

salad, doggie bag, 72

Saloon’s cheese steak sandwich with barbecue mayonnaise, 67-68

sandwich, doggie bag, 73

short-order eggs and, 71

with Spanish cheese sauce, 64-65

steak Diana, 68-69

wines to serve with, 81

Strudel, Allen Sternweiler’s mushroom, 203-4

Stuffed:

filets with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

tomatoes, 217

Sub-primal cuts, 3

Summer fruit cobbler, 225

Superior steak hash, 130-31

Supermarkets, buying steak from, 5-6

Surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

Swanson, Germaine, 31

Sweet-and-sour sauce, braised beef with, 145

Sweet-hot mustard-beer sauce, 88-89

Sweet potato, in Nicole’s Moroccan steak casserole, 148-49

Swift, Gustavus F., 151-52

T

Tabasco Sauce, 41

Tangy caper sauce, 92

Tapawingo (Ellsworth, Mich.), 192

Tasting steak, 90-91 T-bone steak(s), 6, 8, 33-39, 43

carving, 96

dressed in the Posto style, 37-38

famous Fiorentina, 34

holding together dangling pieces of, 38

with six-shooter rub and cowboy beans, 36-37

sliced, with Asian-flavored watercress, 39

with tomato-green peppercorn butter, 35-36

wines to serve with, 81

Tenderizing, 114, 128

Tenderloin, 13-32

with arugula, 25

Asian beef salad with cucumber, 20-21

Chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce, 23-24

cold filet with Monique King’s orange-cumin vinaigrette, 22

cooking methods for, 13-14

grilled beef rolls on a skewer, John Pisto’s, 27-28

sandwiches, Scandinavian-style open-face, 29-30

shaking beef cubes, Germaine Swanson’s, 31-32

steak and potato salad, 16-17

stuffed filets with ancho sauce, Barbara Pool Fenzl’s, 19-20

surf and turf, Asian style, 18-19

true steak au poivre, 15-16

uptown cheese steak sandwich, 30-31

Tenderloin Room (St.Louis), 54

Tequila, in Queen Maida’s margarita, 179

Terlato, Anthony J. (Tony), 49

Texas-style chili, 112

Thackeray, William M., 17

Thai:

red beef curry, 157

seasonings, beef salad with, 110-11

Siam country steak, 142-43

Three-pepper fajitas, 158-59

Tip steak(s), 135

Italian beef sandwich, 137

Tomatillo sauce, red devil, 141-42

Tomato(es):

barbecue sauce, 175

-corn salsa for grilled steak, 216

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

golden Valencia, spaghettini with, 218

-green peppercorn butter, 35-36

paste in tubes, 102

peeling, 142

plum, couscous salad with, 190

porterhouse steak with herbs and, Tony Terlato’s, 49-50

red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

sauce, grilled skirt steak with, 166

sauce, Italian, strip steak with, 63-64

stuffed, 217

Tongs, 132

Top loin. See Strip steak(s)

Top round steak(s), 135

Italian beef sandwich, 137

orange beef, 144

with red devil tomatillo sauce, 141-42

Top sirloin steak, boneless. See Butt steak(s)

Touch method, 7

Trajan, emperor of Rome, 150

Trollope, Frances, 115

True steak au poivre, 15-16

Tuscan beans and potatoes, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

Tuttaposto (Chicago), 222

Twain, Mark, 44

U, V

Under-blade steak, 119

Uptown cheese steak sandwich, 30-31

Veal, 3

Vegetables:

grilled, Dad’s Day, 219

Japanese-style steak with, 103-4

winter, and pancetta salad, 193-94

Vergé, Roger, 76, 82

Vietnamese-style steak and noodles, 104-5

Vinaigrette, 16-17

orange-cumin, 22

sherry-shallot, 50-51

Vinegar, balsamic, 41

Vitamins, 161

W, Y, Z

Waiters, in steak houses, 53, 191

Warm strawberry gratin, 224

Watercress, Asian-flavored, sliced T-bone with, 39

Weaver, Susan, 211

Well done, 7-8

Wet-aging, 4, 5

Whiskey sour made simple, 179

White beans:

old country rice and, 213

Tuscan potatoes and, Nancy Barocci’s, 197-98

White gazpacho, 187

Wild rice with wild mushrooms, 212

Wine:

-bathed sirloin, 100

Caribbean blush, 179

Madeira, in bananas Clarence, 223

Pinot Noir beurre rouge, 86

with steak, 80-81

Winter vegetable salad with pancetta, 193-94

Woks, 133

Worcestershire Sauce, 41

W.R.’s Chicago cut with Gibsons roasting salt, 83-84

Yogurt:

relish, 167

sauce, 110

Zagat Survey, 54

Zucchini:

Dad’s Day grilled vegetables, 219

fabulous fried, 189