A great steak can stand on its own, but the best steak houses take pride in their side dishes and work hard to make them memorable. So should you. How to begin is as easy as saying “meat and potatoes.” Find or create a potato preparation to call your own. Steak fries, potato hash, and creamed potatoes flavored with rosemary are mainstays in my repertory. Baked beans and coleslaw, onion rings, and spinach also are time- and tradition-honored steak companions. For a change of pace, or because it’s a relatively formal meal, I sometimes prepare a side dish of okra or Italian-style greens. In addition to the greens, the Italian way with vegetables is reflected in Old Country Rice and Beans, and Tuscan Beans and Potatoes. Meaty mushrooms, either wild or tame, are a delightful garnish for steak, or can be served in combination with wild rice or in a mushroom strudel. Tomato lovers will want to pair my Broiled Strip Steak with Italian Tomato Sauce with Spaghettini with Golden Valencia Tomatoes for a party of flavors.
The problems beans can cause to the digestion are part of the folklore of the Old West, but urban cooks will be just as troubled if they add salt to the water at the beginning of the cooking cycle. The beans just won’t become tender. Follow the directions and these beans are a cinch to make, easy to digest, and palate-pleasing to boot. My favorite bean for this recipe is the sweet and mealy Anasazi from the Southwest. If you can’t find it, pinto will do very well.
1 cup dried beans, preferably Anasazi
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup diced red onion
½ cup diced green bell pepper
1 tablespoon Six-Shooter Spice Rub (page 37)
Half a 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch sugar
1. Place the beans in a medium-size bowl and fill with cold water to cover by 3 inches. Let soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours.
2. Drain the beans and transfer to a Dutch oven or medium-size saucepan. Add 4 cups cold water, cover the pan, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook at a bare simmer until beans are tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat but leave the cover on.
3. Heat the oil with the onion and green pepper in a medium-size skillet over medium-low heat until the vegetables are almost soft, about 4 minutes. Add the spice rub and stir for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes melt, about 2½ minutes. Add the salt and sugar. Drain the beans, reserving ½ cup of the cooking liquid. Stir the beans into the vegetables in the skillet. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and add the reserved bean water.
4. Rewarm for 5 minutes over medium-low heat before serving.
SERVES 4
Nancy Barocci, founder of a trio of food shops and restaurants called Convito Italiano, usually cooks with an Italian accent when she entertains at home. One evening, despite the presence of a beautifully cooked strip roast, the vegetable side dish refused to play a supporting role. Everyone wanted seconds and I came away with the recipe as well. Serve the beans and potatoes with any grilled or broiled steak. It also makes a good pillow on which to arrange sliced steak.
1 pound new potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
5 tablespoons olive oil, preferably Italian extra virgin
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 ounces pancetta, finely diced
¾ cup chopped shallots
¾ cup chopped red onion
2 cups cooked or canned white beans, such as Italian cannellini
½ cup beef broth
6 fresh sage leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Pat the potato cubes dry with paper towels. Line a baking pan with paper towels.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil, the butter, and garlic in a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-low heat until the garlic just begins to turn golden, about 2 minutes. Pat the potatoes dry again and add them to the skillet. Sauté until the potatoes are golden brown on all sides and cooked through, about 20 minutes, stirring and shaking the pan from time to time to turn them. Transfer the potatoes and any garlic that clings to them to the prepared baking pan and set aside.
3. Pour off any grease and wipe the skillet clean. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil and place the skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the pancetta until crisp, stirring often. Add the shallots and onion and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the shallots and onions are very soft but not browned, 10 to 15 minutes. (The recipe may be prepared to this point several hours in advance.)
4. Add the beans (rinsed and drained if canned), broth, sage, salt, pepper, and potato cubes to the skillet and cook over medium heat until hot, stirring to evenly distribute the ingredients. Serve hot.
SERVES 5 OR 6
Bulgur is available in at least three different grinds. For this salad, use medium grind. This salad is a good companion to steaks that have been marinated.
2 cups vegetable broth
1 cup medium bulgur
1 small tomato
1 teaspoon minced jalapeño
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring the broth to a simmer in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the bulgur, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pan. Cook until the bulgur is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes (see Note).
2. While the bulgur is cooking, core the tomato. Cut it in half and squeeze out the seeds. Cut the tomato into cubes and set aside.
3. When the bulgur tests tender, remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the tomato, jalapeño, lemon juice, cilantro, salt, and pepper. Cover the pan and set aside until ready to serve. Stir the salad to fluff up the bulgur before spooning onto serving plates. This salad is best served warm or at room temperature.
SERVES 4
Note:You may also simply pour boiling liquid over the grains in a bowl, cover the bowl, and let steep until all the liquid has been absorbed.
Searching for the perfect coleslaw is a natural adjunct to searching for the perfect ribs, perfect fried chicken, or perfect grilled steak. For me the path to perfection is built on a bed of finely chopped cabbage. Come along, and if you feel compelled to sprinkle a little sugar en route, I’ll understand.
½ small onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
½ teaspoon celery seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ head green cabbage, cored and outer leaves removed, finely chopped
⅓ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1. Mix the onion, oil, vinegar, celery seeds, and a small amount of salt and pepper in a medium-size bowl. Add the cabbage and toss until well mixed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
2. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving. Add the mayonnaise and the parsley and mix well. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper and serve lightly chilled or at room temperature.
SERVES 6 TO 8
I love to serve this crisp and crunchy slaw with steak grilled over apple wood. Its role in my menu playbook is not that confined, however. It also makes a good companion to almost any steak sandwich.
½ small head green cabbage, outer leaves removed
1 firm, tart apple
½ cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons Stilton cheese, softened
½ teaspoon ground allspice
Salt
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup vegetable oil
1. Cut the cabbage in quarters. Remove and discard the core. Shave the cabbage crosswise into thin strips, and chop coarsely. You should have about 4 cups. Wash but do not peel the apple. Cut it in half, remove and discard the core, then cut the apple into ½-inch cubes. Combine the cabbage, apple, and onion in a bowl.
2. Place the Stilton in a small bowl. Add the allspice, ½ teaspoon salt, and mustard. Using a whisk or fork, stir in the vinegar and Worcestershire. Whisk in the oil.
3. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss well. Cover the surface tightly with plastic wrap, refrigerate, and let mellow for about 1 hour. Add salt to taste, toss the slaw again, and serve.
SERVES 4
This decadent recipe is for those who seriously love garlic. Think of the spread as escargot butter without the snails! It’s perfect served along with plain grilled steak.
1 small head of garlic, unpeeled
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ teaspoon minced garlic
¼ teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
Salt, to taste
1 medium French baguette
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Wrap the garlic completely in a piece of aluminum foil and bake until very soft, 30 minutes. Let cool. Push the pulp out of each clove into a small bowl. (If preparing the bread now, raise the oven temperature to 400°F.)
3. Add the butter to the garlic pulp, stirring until blended. Stir in the minced garlic, lemon pepper, and salt. Cover and set aside if not using right away.
4. Cut the bread on the diagonal into 1-inch-thick slices without cutting all the way through to the bottom. Generously brush each cut side of bread with the garlic butter. Spread any remaining butter over the top of the loaf. Wrap the loaf in aluminum foil, folding the corners down and securely tucking them under the loaf.
5. If not already preheated, preheat the oven to 400°F.
6. Bake the wrapped bread until it is heated through and the butter has melted into each slice, about 10 minutes. If you like soft bread, serve it right out of the oven this way. For a crustier loaf, unwrap the foil and return bread to the oven until the top is browned and crusty, 3 to 5 minutes.
SERVES 6
Call it an Italian salsa. Call it anything, for that matter—and you may be tempted to do so if you bite into a mouthful thinking it is a bland vegetable relish. At Gibsons, the Chicago steak house that makes the giardiniera, it is served as a condiment for grilled steak. But at home, you might also want to spoon some on top of an Italian beef or sausage sandwich or salad.
1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
2 inner ribs celery, diced
1 cup sport peppers (jarred hot Italian peppers), cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 cup peperoncini, cut into ¼-inch pieces
2 jalapeños cored, seeded, and cut into pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
1. Combine both bell peppers, celery, sport peppers, peperoncini, and the jalapeños in a bowl. Toss with the oil and vinegar until well mixed.
2. Transfer the giardiniera to a 1-quart jar, cover, and store in the refrigerator until needed. It will stay crisp for 3 to 4 days.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
Sautéed escarole is a standard side dish in many Italian steak houses. This slightly bitter leafy green is a delicious counterpoint to the rich taste of steak, but I like to combine it with romaine to produce a more intriguing texture and more subtle taste. In the steak house tradition, you may want to serve these greens with a broiled strip steak or porterhouse.
1 head escarole
½ head romaine lettuce
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, slivered
¼ teaspoon sugar
⅛ to ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (optional; see Note)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Core the greens, discarding any browned or bruised leaves, and wash thoroughly. Drain and dry. Cut or tear the greens into large pieces.
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until lightly golden. Sprinkle the sugar and red pepper flakes into the pan, shaking the pan briefly to disperse. Add the greens. Stir and turn until all the leaves begin to wilt. Cover the pan and cook until the greens are tender, 5 minutes.
3. Sprinkle the vinegar over the greens and stir. Add the pine nuts, if using, and correct the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
SERVES 4
Note: Toast the pine nuts in a small skillet over medium-low heat, tossing often, until lightly golden and aromatic, about 5 minutes.
Created by one of Chicago’s most talented young chefs, this savory strudel is a great asset to anyone cooking a dinner party solo. It can be prepared ahead, takes only 15 minutes to cook, and can be served by itself as a first course or to accompany a filet steak or sliced tenderloin.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 to 1½ pounds assorted wild mushrooms, such as shiitakes, oysters, and morels, sliced
Salt and white pepper, to taste
8 tablespoons mixed minced fresh thyme, tarragon, flat-leaf parsley, and chives
1 large egg stirred with 1 large egg yolk
3 sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed
¼ cup melted unsalted butter
1. Melt the 2 tablespoons butter with the olive oil in a medium-size sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and raise the heat to medium. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in 6 tablespoons of the herbs, remove from the heat, and let cool. Transfer the mushrooms with a slotted spoon to a medium-size bowl and combine with the egg and egg yolk.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a baking sheet.
3. Spread out a phyllo sheet on a work surface. Working quickly, paint it with the melted butter and sprinkle on some of the remaining 2 tablespoons herbs. Repeat with the second and third sheets, placing one sheet on top of the other as you finish. Use up all the herbs and as much melted butter as needed. Spread the mushroom mixture evenly over three fourths of the top sheet, leaving a 1-inch border around the other 3 edges. Starting with the short end, roll the phyllo up tightly around the filling, jelly-roll style. Tuck the sides under-neath, with the seam side down. (The strudel may be prepared to this point up to 1 day in advance. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate.)
4. Transfer the strudel to the prepared baking sheet and bake until golden brown all over, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the strudel from the oven and let it rest for 3 to 5 minutes before slicing. To serve, cut off the ends, then slice into eight 1-inch-wide medallions.
SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER OR 8 WITH A STEAK MAIN COURSE
Most people who say they dislike okra are referring to the unpleasant texture that results from stewing it for a long time. Instead, try sautéing okra in a little oil over medium-high heat until it is tender but still retains a slight crunch. It’s delicious.
1 pound okra, washed, ends trimmed, and drained
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Cut each okra in half on the diagonal. Set aside.
2. Place the cumin seeds in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-low heat. Toast, tossing often, until browned and aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to the skillet. Add the onion slices and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and slightly browned, 7 to 10 minutes.
4. Increase the heat to medium. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the okra. Cook the okra, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the salt and pepper and continue to cook until the okra is tender but still retains a slight crunch, about 5 minutes more. The onions will be toasty brown by this time. Serve hot.
SERVES 4
“Outrageous” because they taste so good and are consumed so fast. A couple of tricks: first, use popcorn salt (a commercial product available in supermarkets). It’s great on any fried food because it is finely ground and sticks to surfaces. Second, cut the rings thick because a thick ring retains the sweet taste of onion. Serve with the steak or before it.
1 very large sweet onion
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1½ cups buttermilk
Vegetable oil for frying
Popcorn salt, to taste
1. Peel the onion, removing the tough outer layer of onion with the skin. Cut crosswise into slices about ½-inch thick. Separate the slices into individual rings. Do not discard the onion centers.
2. Combine the flour, salt, black pepper, and cayenne in a shallow bowl. Stir to mix. Pour the buttermilk into another bowl.
3. Dredge the onion rings, a few at a time, in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess flour and set them onto a baking sheet. One or two at a time, immerse the onion rings into the buttermilk. Remove and dredge again in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess flour. Transfer to the baking sheet. Repeat the process with all the remaining onion rings.
4. Pour the oil to a depth of ½ to 1 inch in a cast-iron skillet and heat over medium-high heat. When the temperature reaches 375°F on a frying thermometer, add the onion rings, a few at a time, without overcrowding the pan. Cook, turning once, until deep golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes. Remove the onion rings from the oil and drain on a plain brown paper bag. While the onion rings are still hot, add salt, to taste. Make sure the oil returns to 375°F before frying additional rings.
5. When all the onion rings have been) fried and have drained, serve at once or place them on an ovenproof platter and keep warm in a 200°F oven until ready to serve.
SERVES 4
I won’t play the tease. A look at the recipe and you’ll realize these potatoes gained their “magnificent” rating in the company of my Homage to Pot Roast. You’re going to love them as well with Charlie’s Butt Steak and Eye-Round Steaks with Onion-Cream Gravy (see Index). And, I promise, even though oil and water are not supposed to mix, they make the purée more delicious than would butter and cream.
2 pounds baking or yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters
Salt
½ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin
Freshly ground pepper, preferably white
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herb, such as basil, oregano, rosemary, or thyme
1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and 1 tablespoon of salt. Simmer, partially covered, until soft, 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the potatoes in the hot water for up to 15 minutes to keep them warm.
2. Spoon out ½ cup of the warm cooking water and pour into a bowl. Add the olive oil. Drain the potatoes and either put them through a ricer placed over the bowl or transfer them to the bowl and use a potato masher to reduce them to a pillowy-soft purée. Season with salt, pepper, and your herb of choice. Beat with a wooden spoon until well combined and fluffy.
3. Serve at once or keep warm in the top of a double boiler over simmering water.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Many cooks consider potatoes mashed with some milk, butter, salt, and pepper, perfection, so they ask, “Why play with perfection?” Try this recipe and you’ll know why I like to pair these potatoes with grilled steak served without a sauce.
1 can (14½ ounces) low-sodium chicken broth
2 white button mushrooms, quartered (optional)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1 leek, white only, diced
1 small celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 pounds potatoes, preferably yellow Finn, peeled and cut into quarters
White pepper, to taste
¼ cup olive oil
¾ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
½ cup crème fraîche or heavy (or whipping) cream (optional)
Accumulated steak juices, if any
1. Combine the broth, mushrooms, if using, and garlic in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to low. Simmer for 5 minutes.
2. Add the leek and celery root.Cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the parsnips and simmer until all the vegetables are soft, 10 minutes more. Let cool. Transfer the vegetables and broth to a food processor and purée. Season with salt and black pepper. (The recipe may be done ahead to this point. Place the purée in a container and refrigerate.)
3. About 30 minutes before serving, bring water to a boil in a large pan. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the potatoes. Cook, partially covered, until soft, 20 minutes. Meanwhile, place salt and white pepper, olive oil, basil, and crème fraîche, if using, in a large, warm bowl.
4. Reheat the vegetable purée. Drain the potatoes, reserving ½ cup potato water. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl, and mash with a potato masher. Stir in the vegetable purée, any steak juices, if using and as much reserved potato water as needed to keep the mixture loose. Taste and correct for seasoning. Serve at once.
SERVES 6
Meat and potatoes is the classic American food pairing. As a result, people who know and love steak also tend to be potato connoisseurs. Therefore, every successful steak house pays careful attention to the selection and preparation of its potato “sides.” Ruth’s Chris, for example, has nine different potato offerings on its menu. I came to know this dish at the Pump Room in Chicago, where a variation of it is served with a sizzling hot platter of sliced strip steak.
Salt
3 large baking potatoes, scrubbed
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup diced red bell pepper
¼ cup diced green bell pepper
¼ cup diced yellow bell pepper
½ cup diced onion
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish
Snipped fresh chives, for garnish
1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add salt and the potatoes, lower the heat, and simmer, partially covered, until tender but still slightly firm when poked with a sharp knife, about 25 minutes. Drain the potatoes, let them cool, then peel and cube them.
2. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes. Add all three bell peppers and the onion and continue to cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, 5 minutes more.
3. Season with salt and pepper, garnish with parsley and chives, and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Parboiling diced potato before panfrying is a useful shortcut. This beef-friendly combination can be ready in the time it takes to prepare and cook your steak.
½ tablespoon salt
1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
½ medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
2 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps cut into julienne strips
1 medium clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon paprika, preferably Hungarian
Freshly ground black pepper and salt, to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves (optional)
1. Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the salt and potatoes and simmer, partially covered, until the potato is tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat the oil and butter in a heavy medium-size skillet over medium heat. When the butter is bubbling, add the red pepper and sauté, stirring 2 to 3 times, until they start to soften, 2 minutes.
3. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and potato. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Season with the paprika, pepper, and salt. Continue cooking and stirring until the potato pieces begin to crust, 3 to 5 minutes more. If desired, stir in chopped parsley just before serving.
SERVES 2
PARSLEY
There’s a rift in the parsley family. The short leaf, curly stuff found in every supermarket not too far from the iceberg lettuce is so bland and boring it puts your taste buds to sleep. But an Italian cousin, known as Italian flat-leaf or merely flat-leaf parsley, has flair and flavor. Don’t hesitate to pay a higher price for the latter. You can use the stems as well as the leaves in marinades, soups, or sauces.
Large wedges of seasoned potatoes are a simple and delicious partner to almost any steak. The recipe name refers to the deep-fried potatoes served in many steak restaurants. At home, I prefer to bake the wedges until crisp on the outside and creamy within.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon paprika, preferably Hungarian
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper
2 large baking potatoes, scrubbed
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Combine the oil, paprika, cumin, salt, and pepper in a medium-size bowl. Stir to mix.
3. Cut the potatoes into quarters lengthwise, then cut each quarter crosswise in half to form wedges. Transfer the cut potatoes to the bowl of seasonings. Mix well to coat the potatoes evenly and thoroughly. Space the seasoned potatoes out on an ungreased baking pan without overcrowding. Bake until well browned and fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Serve right away.
SERVES 4
Susan Weaver, executive chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York City, created this dish to go with strip steak at the hotel’s 5757 restaurant. Fragrant and meltingly soft, it provides a wonderful textural counterpoint to the meaty steak. Try the same combination at a home dinner party. Although Chef Weaver makes the pies in individual servings, I take an easier path and make this single large pie.
1½ pounds waxy potatoes, such as new potatoes
2 cups heavy (or whipping) cream
¼ cup finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Salt, to taste
1 large egg
1 tablespoon cold water
1 package (17¼ ounces; 2 sheets) frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed
1. Peel and slice the potatoes into ⅛-inch-thick rounds. Combine the potatoes, cream, rosemary, garlic, and pepper in a large sauté pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and let cool in the pan.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
3. Stir the egg with the water in a small bowl. Set aside.
4. Roll out each puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Line a 1½ quart gratin pan with 1 pastry sheet. Press the dough well along the pan sides. Fill the pan evenly with the potato mixture. Brush the dough edges of the pastry with the egg wash. Cover the pie filling with the second sheet of pastry and press to seal the rim. Trim away any excess pastry and crimp the edges. Cut a small hole in the middle of the pie to vent steam. (Recipe may be prepared ahead to this point. Refrigerate the pie until ready to bake.)
5. Brush the pastry top with egg wash and place the pie on a baking sheet. Bake until golden brown and cooked through, about 25 minutes. Serve hot.
SERVES 8
Here’s an easy-to-make, elegant side dish that will dress up a downtown cut of steak such as Grilled Flank Steak with Eggplant and Red Pepper or Grilled Skirt Steak with Fresh Tomato Sauce.
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound mixed wild mushrooms, such as shiitakes, oysters, and portobellos, stems trimmed and coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 cup wild and white rice blend, such as Uncle Ben’s
1. Heat the garlic with the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium-low heat until the garlic begins to turn golden, 2½ to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to medium-high, and sauté, turning occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and begin to give up their juices, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. (Recipe may be done ahead to this point.)
2. Prepare the rice following the package directions. Do not use the seasoning packet, if included.
3. Reheat the mushroom mixture and stir into the hot rice. Serve hot.
SERVES 6
Never underestimate the ability of Italian-inspired recipes to charm you into making them again and again. I serve this dish on its own or as a side dish with grilled T-bone, The Famous Fiorentina (see Index).
1 cup dried white beans
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 inner rib celery, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 can (14½ ounces) plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup rice, preferably Arborio
6 tablespoons olive oil or red wine (optional)
1. Place the beans in a medium-size bowl and fill with cold water to cover the beans by 3 inches. Let soak at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours.
2. Drain the beans in a colander, then transfer them to a medium-size saucepan. Add 4 cups of cold water, cover the pan, and bring to a boil. Do not add salt. Reduce heat to low and cook at a bare simmer until the beans are tender, about 1½ hours. Remove the beans from the heat but leave the cover on.
3. While the beans are cooking, heat the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, celery, parsley, and oregano, and cook until the vegetables are almost soft, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Set aside.
4. Meanwhile, cook the rice following the package directions. When the rice is ready, drain the beans, combine them with the vegetables, and reheat if necessary. Add the cooked rice to the bean mixture and serve hot. If desired, add a tablespoon of olive oil or red wine to each portion at the table.
SERVES 6
One of the most popular side dishes at classic steak houses is spinach. A few steak houses, notably Sparks in Manhattan, simply steam the spinach and serve the pristine leaves. Others prepare creamed chopped spinach using béchamel sauce. My approach is a middle route that preserves the fresh taste and lightens the sauce. For maximum pleasure, use fresh instead of frozen spinach.
2 bunches or bags fresh spinach (about 20 ounces) or 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen leaf spinach, thawed and drained
½ cup chopped onion
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon Salt
½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
½cup heavy (or whipping) cream
1. If using fresh spinach, wash and remove any large stems. Place in a large nonreactive saucepan and cook covered, over medium heat, in the water still clinging to the leaves, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Turn the spinach once with kitchen tongs during wilting. If using frozen spinach, prepare it following the package directions. Transfer spinach to a bowl filled with cold water to stop the cooking. Drain.
2. Combine the onion, nutmeg, cinnamon, ⅛ teaspoon salt, broth, and cream in a small saucepan. Boil, uncovered, over medium heat until reduced to ¾ cup, about 15 minutes.
3. Squeeze the spinach between your hands to remove excess liquid. Coarsely chop the spinach and add it to the sauce. Season with salt. Set aside. (The recipe may be done ahead to this point. Cover and refrigerate the spinach mixture until ready to serve.)
4. Reheat the creamy spinach in a medium-size saucepan or skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until it is bubbling hot, about 4 minutes.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Quite rustic and less delicate than a traditional soufflé, this dish has considerable flavor but is still mild enough not to intrude upon the meat or the sauce you have chosen for it. Don’t worry if it falls during serving; the texture and taste will be fine.
2 bunches or bags fresh spinach (about 20 ounces) or 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen leaf spinach, thawed and drained
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups milk
½ cup white cornmeal
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks, at room temperature
4 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon white pepper
1. If using the fresh spinach, wash and remove any large stems. Place in a large nonreactive saucepan and cook, covered, over medium heat, in the water still clinging to the leaves, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Turn the spinach once with kitchen tongs during wilting. If using frozen spinach, prepare it following the package instructions. Transfer the spinach to a bowl filled with cold water to stop the cooking. Drain, squeeze excess water from the spinach, and coarsely chop it. Set aside 1½ cups.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Butter a 2-quart soufflé mold and sprinkle the bottom and sides with 1½ tablespoons of the Parmesan. Set aside away from the heat.
4. Heat the milk and cornmeal in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the consistency of a thick cream sauce and begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat slightly and continue to stir for 1 minute more. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the butter until melted. Stir in the egg yolks, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Stir in the 1½ cups of chopped spinach, mix to blend, and set aside.
5. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. If necessary, reheat the spinach mixture over medium heat until warm. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whites gently but thoroughly into the spinach mixture. Pour into the soufflé mold. Sprinkle the top with the remaining 1½ tablespoons of Parmesan.
6. Bake the soufflé until the top is puffed and golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Present the soufflé in the dining room, if you wish, then spoon onto warm plates.
SERVES 6
As you might suspect, corn and beef have a great affinity. So do corn and tomatoes. Not so coincidentally, corn, tomatoes, and steak all have an affinity for the grill. Which means, while you can serve this succulent salsa year round, I recommend you make it for the first time when summer vegetables are at their peak. That way, you’ll never forget it, though you may forget what else you served that night. There will be no need for a sauce or vegetable to accompany the steak.
2 cups fresh corn kernels, from 2 or 3 ears of corn, or frozen kernels
2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch dice
⅓ cup peeled and diced jicama
⅓ cup diced onion
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 jalapeño, halved, seeded, and minced
1 clove garlic, minced
¾ teaspoon salt
1. Bring water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the corn and simmer for 2 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the corn, tomatoes, jicama, onion, cilantro, lime juice, cumin, jalapeño, garlic, and salt. Stir well, cover with plastic wrap, and put aside at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Why a stuffed tomato recipe? Because on more than one occasion I’ve envisioned a magnificent steak, or magnificent slices of steak, on a plate and said to myself, “Help! What can I put on this plate that will justify its presence because it is pretty and very tasty?” Here’s my answer, a recipe from Chicago chef Lee Keating.
6 medium firm-ripe tomatoes, washed and patted dry
⅓ cup soft bread crumbs
¼ cup milk
2 or 3 sprigs basil, flat-leaf parsley, or cilantro, finely chopped
1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Cut the tomatoes crosswise in half and squeeze out the seeds. Cut out the pulp, leaving only a firm shell. Mash the pulp and place it in a strainer set over a bowl.
3. Combine the bread crumbs and milk in a small bowl and stir together. Mix in the drained tomato pulp, basil, and garlic. Add the egg yolks, Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Divide the mixture among the tomatoes and place them in an oiled baking dish. Drizzle a little oil over each tomato. Bake until the tomatoes are tender but still hold their shape, 35 to 40 minutes. Serve 2 halves per person, hot or at room temperature.
SERVES 6
This may be the ultimate pasta “side” for broiled uptown cuts of steak. It was created for a tomato festival by chef John Chiakulas at Chicago’s Scoozi restaurant. He uses sweet golden Valencia tomatoes. If not available, substitute chopped cocktail tomatoes or tomatoes on the stem.
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
½ tablespoon finely chopped garlic
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin
4 cups seeded and coarsely chopped golden Valencia tomatoes
1 pound spaghettini
4 ounces Boursin garlic and herb cheese
1. Combine the rosemary, thyme, basil, garlic, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Stir in the olive oil, then add the tomatoes. Stir and set aside at room temperature for about 1 hour.
2. Cook the pasta in lots of boiling salted water until al dente, about 12 minutes. Drain and add the hot pasta to the bowl with the tomato mixture. Toss to mix, then crumble the cheese over the top. Toss again to coat the pasta with cheese. Serve at once.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Grilling food on Father’s Day is a win-win situation, to cite an inescapable cliché of the moment. If Dad wants to work the grill, let him try his hand at this spicy vegetable combination. If he demands “his” day off, cook it for him. I used to grill seasoned eggplant without any other vegetables. My friend John Pisto suggested adding more, as he always does. This is the result, introduced on Father’s Day.
1 medium eggplant
2 medium green bell peppers
1 medium red bell pepper
3 medium zucchini
1 medium red onion
8 medium firm-ripe tomatoes, preferably Romas
Spicy seasoning mix such as Cajun Magic or Pisto’s Sensational Seasoning, to taste
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Salt, to taste
1. Prepare coals for grilling.
2. Cut the eggplant into 1-inch cubes and set aside. Core and seed the bell peppers, cut them into 1½-inch chunks, and place in a medium-size bowl. Cut the zucchini on the bias into ½-inch slices. Cut the onion crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices. Transfer both to the bowl with the bell peppers. Cut the Roma tomatoes lengthwise in half or regular tomatoes into 3 pieces and place in the bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the seasoning mix and toss well. Add the oil and toss again until all the vegetables are coated. Add the eggplant cubes, which will immediately soak up any excess oil.
3. When ready to cook, arrange the vegetables in a hinged grill basket or on a grill rack with narrow slots and place over medium coals. Cook until the vegetables are soft, turning as necessary, about 6 or 7 minutes. There will be flare-ups due to the oil, but some char on the vegetables is desirable.
4. Return the cooked vegetables to the bowl. Sprinkle the red wine and balsamic vinegars over them and toss. Season with salt or additional seasoning mix, if desired. Transfer to a platter and serve lukewarm or at room temperature.
SERVES 6 TO 8