Chuck is certainly best known as ground chuck, to me the most flavorful type of hamburger meat, but chuck deserves recognition as more than a character actor. It has the most complex bone and muscle of all the cuts, yielding more than half-a-dozen different steaks. The most important, from the top of the cut downward, are blade steak (bone-in), shoulder steak (boneless), arm steak (bone-in), and one called merely chuck steak (bone-in or boneless). Add to these seven-bone, under-blade, mock tender, and chuck eye and your refrigerator or freezer will be very full.
All these steaks have excellent flavor and good, if sometimes fibrous, texture. They can be cut thick or thin and broiled or roasted successfully, especially if marinated. But the Best Ever way to cook chuck steaks is to braise them.
Braising represents a three-pronged approach to cooking meat. First, the meat surfaces are seared in a pan. Then liquid—generally a small amount—is added to the pot or pan and brought to a boil. The heat is lowered, the pot or pan covered tightly, and the simmering liquid both poaches and steams the meat. This may be done on top of the stove or in a slow oven. Meat also may be braised and steamed in a pressure cooker.
With the temperature just below 212°F, braising is a less heat-intense method than roasting. Therefore the meat can cook for a long period of time and become tender without burning. Beware, however, of the liquid heating to a boil. Prolonged boiling can only render the meat dry and hard. Braising is the preferred way to cook a cut such as the deliciously tender chuck eye, often called a “beauty steak.” Beauty steak is a coined term for the chuck eye steak, a prize part of the chuck. It’s frowned on by the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association, but the butcher who coined it did have an eye for beauty.
The Beauty Steak Braised with Mushrooms is my Best Ever recipe. After cooking it, take a tour of the chuck neighborhood by trying Homage to Pot Roast, made with boneless blade steak, and Baked Steak with Pan Gravy using an arm steak.
This is a method I devised for making lean beef both tender and tasty Faced with a boneless chuck eye and not a lot of time to cook it on the day of serving, I decided to combine the traditional tenderizing methods of marinating and braising. (Braising means allowing the meat to barely swim in the cooking liquid, not drown in it; that technique is called poaching.) The marinated and seared meat emerges from its bath almost, but not quite, fork tender, a good match for the aromatic and meaty mushroom slices. For an extra taste fillip I sometimes use Consorzio mushroom oil (see Note) in place of plain oil. Serve with mashed potatoes, a green vegetable such as broccoli, and a glass of Pinot Noir.
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon bourbon
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound boneless chuck eye, cut about 1 inch thick
2 portobello mushrooms (4 ounces each)
1 cup beef broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Combine the vegetable oil, lemon juice, bourbon, garlic, and pepper in a nonreactive bowl or baking pan just large enough to hold the steak. Stir well, and add the steak. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours, turning the steak at least once.
2. About 30 minutes before cooking, remove the bowl from the refrigerator. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and pat dry.
3. Cut the stems from the mushrooms. Trim away the bottoms of the stems, then cut the rest of the stems into medium dice. You should have about ½ cup. Put the diced stems in a small saucepan, cover with the beef broth, and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan and keep warm over very low heat.
4. Heat a 10-inch heavy pan, preferably cast iron over medium-high heat. When hot, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the steak and sear until nicely browned on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn the steak and sear the other side, about 4 minutes more. Pour in beef broth with the mushroom stems. Bring the liquid to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cover the pan. Braise the steak for 8 minutes, turn, and braise for 7 minutes more. The steak will be cooked through but still very moist.
5. Meanwhile, cut the mushroom caps into large dice. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a sauté pan, add the diced mushroom caps, and sauté over medium heat until just softened, about 5 minutes. Lightly season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
6. Transfer the steak from the broth to a cutting board. Strain the braising liquid, then return it to the pan. Reduce the braising liquid to ¾ cup over high heat, 4 to 5 minutes.
7. Cut the steak into 1-inch-thick slices. Lightly salt and pepper the meat, if desired, and place on warm plates. Scatter diced mushroom caps over the meat and moisten with 2 or 3 tablespoons of the braising liquid. Pass remaining braising liquid in a sauceboat.
SERVES 3 OR 4
Note: Consorzio flavored oils are handsomely packaged products from California. These fragrant oils provide a new flavor dimension when used to coat steaks that will be grilled, broiled, or panfried. Flavors especially compatible with steak include roasted garlic, five-pepper, and porcini mushroom.
BEEFSTEAK CLUB RULES
While equipment has improved dramatically, the craft—dare I call it an art?—of steak cookery has changed very little over the years. Here are the cooking rules of an English organization called the “Beefsteak Club,” circa 1734. There also was a Beefsteak Club in the colonies.
HOW TO COOK A BEEFSTEAK
Pound well your meat until the fibers break;
Be sure that next you have, to broil the steak,
Good coal in plenty; nor a moment leave,
But turn it over this way and then that.
The lean should be quite rare—not so the fat;
The platter now and then the juice receive.
Put on your butter—place it on your meat—
Salt, pepper; turn it over serve and eat.
The Caribbean flavoring mixture known as “jerk” can be painfully spicy This is a gentler jerk, call it a tug or a nudge, but it’s nonetheless tasty for that. Serve the steaks with rice, a sautéed green vegetable such as okra, and very cold beer.
4 small green chilies, preferably finger chilies or serrano chilies
2 teaspoons ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1½ teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 scallions, white part and 2 inches of green, cut into ½-inch-long pieces
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 to 4 boneless chuck eye beauty steaks (about 8 ounces each), cut ¾ inch thick
1. Cut off the stems and tips of the chilies, then cut them lengthwise in half. Remove seeds and veins and set aside. Cut the chilies into small pieces. You should have about 2 tablespoons.
2. Measure the allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, paprika, salt, and pepper into a food processor. Add the chilies and scallions. Process for 20 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, add the vinegar and oil, and process for 20 seconds more, or until the mixture forms a paste. You should have about ⅓ cup. Taste the mixture and if desired, add ½ teaspoon or more of the reserved chili seeds and veins to increase the heat level.
3. Paint each steak on both sides with 2 tablespoons of the jerk mixture. (1½ tablespoons if preparing 4 steaks.) Place on a plate or platter, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
4. About 30 minutes before cooking, remove the steaks from the refrigerator and prepare coals for grilling or preheat the broiler.
5. Grill or broil the steaks until seared and well-crusted on one side, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook 4 minutes more for medium-rare or 5 minutes for medium. If desired, thin the remaining paste with water to a sauce consistency, heat, and pass at the table.
SERVES 2 TO 4
New York chef Larry Forgione developed this steak sauce for an uptown cut of beef—tenderloin—to be served at his An American Place restaurant. I find this very flavorful marinade and resulting sauce to be just right for a less expensive downtown cut from the chuck. I think you will agree. Serve with noodles or rice and beer or a fruity Italian red wine such as Barbera.
12 ounces dark beer
1½ cups beef broth
1 can (14½ ounces) diced tomatoes, drained
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
5 drops of hot pepper sauce, preferably Tabasco
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon salt
4 chuck eye beauty steaks, (about 8 ounces each), cut ¾ inch thick
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1. Combine the beer, broth, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, Worcestershire, pepper sauce, black pepper, and salt in a nonreactive dish large enough to hold the steaks in a single layer. Stir to mix. Place the steaks in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 3 to 6 hours, turning the meat once.
2. Prepare coals for grilling.
3. Remove the steaks from the marinade and pat dry. Pour the marinade into a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer and reduce the liquid to 2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes.
4. Rub the steaks with a little vegetable oil and salt and pepper. Grill the steaks until seared and well-crusted on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook 4 minutes more for medium-rare or 5 minutes for medium. Remove from the grill to a cutting board.
5. To finish the sauce, remove the bay leaf from reduced marinade. Stir in the softened butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, over low heat, stirring constantly until the butter is completely incorporated into the sauce.
6. Cut each steak into slices, then spoon ¼ cup of the sauce onto each of 4 warm plates. Arrange slices of steak on top of the sauce and serve at once. Alternatively, serve the steaks uncut and spoon the sauce over them.
SERVES 4
Here’s a hearty dish worth coming home to after a fall or winter’s day spent out of doors. Serve it with a green salad or a hearty green vegetable such as Brussels sprouts, pour beer, and offer Mississippi Mud Pie (see Index) for dessert.
1 boneless chuck steak, (about 2 pounds), cut 1¼ inches thick
2 cloves garlic, cut in half
6 sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
6 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 bay leaves
1 large baking potato
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large sweet onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
Paprika
2 cups ale or dark beer
2 cups beef broth
1. Pat the meat dry with paper towels and set aside. Wrap the garlic, thyme, parsley, and bay leaves in cheesecloth, form into a bag, and tie tightly. Set aside. Peel the potato and cut it crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices. Set aside in cold water until ready to use.
2. Heat the butter and oil in a large enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the butter stops sizzling, add the meat. Brown well, about 3 minutes. Turn the meat, season with salt and pepper, and brown the second side about 3 minutes more. Remove the steak to a platter.
3. Add onion to the casserole and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add ½ teaspoon paprika and stir. Return the steak to the casserole. Pour the beer and the broth over the steak. Add the cheesecloth bag. Bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, checking from time to time to be sure the liquid is not boiling.
4. Drain the potato slices and arrange on top of the steak in a single layer. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika. Cook, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes more, or until the potatoes are soft.
5. Remove the steak to a cutting board. Remove the cheesecloth bag and discard. Taste the broth and adjust seasoning.
6. Cut the steak crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices and divide among 3 or 4 plates. Cover generously with the potatoes, onions, and broth.
SERVES 3 OR 4
This is an almost effortless way to cook steak. Just bake it in the oven at a moderate temperature with a little broth. This downtown cut emerges from the oven tender and juicy, while the well-flavored gravy should be introduced to some mashed potatoes on the plate. I always plan to have some meat left over to use in Superior Steak Hash (see Index), but it doesn’t always work out that way.
1 boneless chuck steak, (about 3¼ pounds), cut 1½ inches thick
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup beef broth
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon cold water
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place a large, ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat.
2. Pat the meat dry, and lightly coat it with oil on both sides. Place the meat in the hot pan and sear one side until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn, season with salt and pepper, and sear the second side, about 2 minutes. Turn again and season the second side.
3. Pour the broth into the pan and bring it to a boil. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook, uncovered, for 35 to 40 minutes for medium-rare or 40 to 45 minutes for medium.
4. Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Pour the broth into a small saucepan, and skim off the fat that rises to the surface. Combine the cornstarch and water in a small dish. Bring the broth to a boil over medium heat, and stir in the cornstarch mixture. Whisk until the broth thickens slightly. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Keep warm.
5. Slice the meat into long strips across the grain, arrange on warm plates, and moisten the meat generously with the gravy.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Why talk? The proof is in the eating. My idea was simply to take some seasonings and ingredients associated with central Europe, braise them with the meat, and see what happened. According to my uptown-cut-oriented wife, what happened after the steak was cooked was an elysian fields version of pot roast. She warns, however, that to serve it without Magnificent Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil and Herbs (see Index) is to risk a rare shot at finding bliss. A Petite Sirah from Parducci provided the fruit and body we wanted with this dish. Save the leftover cooking broth. It’s nectar.
1 boneless blade steak, (about 2 pounds), cut 1½ inches thick
Paprika, preferably sweet Hungarian
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or distilled white vinegar
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon corn oil
Salt, to taste
2 medium green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 can (13¾ ounces) beef broth
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. About 8 hours before cooking, pat the steak dry.. Combine 1 teaspoon of the paprika, the caraway seeds, and garlic in a mortar. Pound into paste and rub over the steak. Place the steak in a Ziploc bag and add the onion slices. Stir the vinegar and ¼ cup oil together in a small bowl and pour into the bag. Squeeze the air out, seal, and massage so the meat is well covered. Refrigerate for 8 hours, turning at least twice.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
3. Heat a large, heavy, ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat, then coat the surface with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Remove all the onion slices from the bag, pat dry, and place in the skillet. Add the meat and sear until nicely browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn, season the browned side with salt, and sear the second side for 2 minutes. Turn, season with salt, then sear the sides of the steak.
4. Pour the marinade into the pan. Add the green peppers and the beef broth. Bring to a boil, cover the pan, and place in the bottom third of the oven.
5. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, turn the steak over, and baste it. Return to the oven and cook, covered, until tender, 45 minutes more. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and cover loosely with aluminum foil.
6. Pour the contents of the pan into a strainer set over a bowl. Purée the strained vegetables in a food processor or blender, adding salt, pepper, and paprika. You should have about 1 cup of purée.
7. Degrease the broth in the bowl. You should have 2 cups of broth. Stir ¼ cup of the broth into the purée. Pour the purée into one bowl and the remaining broth into a second bowl. Cover both bowls with plastic wrap and reheat in a microwave for 2 minutes.
8. Meanwhile, cut the steak across the grain into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Arrange the slices on each of 4 warm plates. Top with 2 tablespoons of the purée, followed by ¼ cup of the broth.
SERVES 4
TENDERIZING
Meat may be made less tough by cutting (cube steak), grinding (hamburger), or mashing (pounded round steak) the connective tissue. It also can be tenderized by exposing it to acid marinades or plant enzymes.
Marinades are seasoned liquids, such as fruit or vegetable juices, wine, water, and/or oil, combined with herbs and seasonings that add flavor. To tenderize, the marinade must contain an acidic ingredient such as lemon juice, wine, vinegar, or yogurt and touch the steak for several hours. Do not over-marinate (more than 24 hours), or you risk overly soft, mushy meat. Dry marinades, also called rubs, add flavor but do not tenderize.
While this stew preparation is somewhat involved and time-consuming, the result is classic and elegant and worthy of every minute spent. For a nostalgia night menu—and to spend more time with your guests than in the kitchen—buy smoked salmon or smoked trout for the first course. Pour the same Zinfandel used in the sauce and conclude with Hummers (see Index), the perfect after-dinner drink-dessert.
1 boneless chuck steak (about 2 pounds)
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
2 cups red wine, preferably Zinfandel
2 cups water
2 teaspoons instant beef bouillon or 2 beef bouillon cubes
1½ tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
4 sprigs fresh parsley
6 carrots, peeled
3 parsnips, peeled
2 large red potatoes, peeled
12 ounces white or red pearl onions, peeled
1. Cut the beef into 2- to 2½-inch chunks. Combine the flour and a generous amount of salt and pepper on a large plate. Dredge the beef chunks in the seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Set aside.
2. Heat the butter and oil in a large, enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat while dredging the meat a second time in the seasoned flour. Brown the meat on all sides, working in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. As each piece of meat is browned, transfer it to a platter.
3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the pan drippings. Add the chopped onion, carrots, and celery to the pan and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, raise the heat, and bring the wine to a boil. Boil the wine, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the water and instant bouillon and return the meat to the pan. The liquid should come up halfway over the meat. Add more water, if necessary. Bring to a simmer and stir in the tomato paste, bay leaves, thyme, rosemary, and parsley. Cover the pan and simmer gently over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender, about 2 hours.
4. Remove the meat to a platter. Discard the bay leaves and herb sprigs. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium-size bowl and pour the contents of the pan through the sieve, pushing to extract as much liquid as possible from the vegetables. Discard the vegetables and return the liquid to the pan. Skim off the fat that rises to the surface, then correct the seasoning. Return the beef to the pan. (The stew may be prepared to this point up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate, covered, and reheat to finish.)
5. To finish the stew, cut the carrots, parsnips, and potatoes into 2-inch chunks. Steam or boil these vegetables and the pearl onions until tender. Drain and add to the beef mixture. Reheat the stew, covered, over low heat for at least 15 minutes, or until the mixture is thoroughly hot.
SERVES 6
STEWING
Stewing involves smaller pieces of meat and more liquid than braising. It’s a time-consuming method because the meat is cooked well beyond the point at which it is done so its flavor will permeate the liquid. I like to use round and butt steaks as well as chuck to make stew. For example, try a round steak in the Knife-and-Fork Beef Stew.
Since childhood, “hash” has been for me one of the most evocative menu words in the English language. I think the pleasure hash brings is a combination of its comfort food consistency and the voyage of discovery as you eat it. The standard definition is cooked meat—or poultry or even fish—cut into small pieces and recooked. But with what? The possibilities are virtually inexhaustible. Hash never needs to be made the same way twice. In this version, I combined raw potatoes and seasoned broth with chuck steak and used celery as an aromatic. Why? Because it was there. That’s the charm of hash. There is one constant, however: James Beard insisted that Heinz Chili Sauce (see Note) was the perfect condiment for beef hash, and it is.
¾ cup chopped onion
⅓ cup diced celery
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 pound cooked boneless chuck steak, cut into ½-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1½ cups beef broth
½ teaspoon dried thyme
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1. Combine the onion, celery, and oil in a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the potato and stir to coat the cubes with oil, about 1 minute. Add the paprika, celery leaves, and parsley and stir until they soften, 1 minute more.
2. Add the meat to the vegetables and stir to mix the ingredients well. Pour in the broth and bring to a simmer, about 3 minutes. Add the thyme, cayenne, black pepper, salt, and Worcestershire. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has become syrupy and is almost gone, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.
SERVES 4
Note: Heinz Chili Sauce is a survivor from an era when the word chili didn’t cause you to wince in anticipation of pain. There are peppers in this sauce—along with tomatoes, onion, and vinegar—but they are sweet peppers. It is a perfect companion to steak hash and hamburgers.
What the cook needs to perform (indoors) could result in an endless list, so I’ll stick to some special items that relate to steak cookery and skip the all-purpose tools and “things” that fill my kitchen—and probably yours as well—to overflowing.
Knives: I use 3- and 4-inch paring knives, an 8-inch chef’s knife and a 10-inch slicing knife often. A steak cook will also want to have a boning knife and cleaver within reach. A tool for sharpening (and knowing how to use it) is essential.
Keeping knives sharp means the knife is safer because it requires less pressure to do its job. It also will cut more quickly, more efficiently, and thinner. Don’t hesitate to make the considerable investment necessary to obtain top-of-the-line knives, but be sure first that the knife feels comfortable in your hand.
Steak knives: Family and guests will be appreciative if there are first-rate steak knives at the table. The knives will pay for themselves by convincing folks that the occasional tough steak is really pretty easy to cut.
Chopping boards and a carving board: The surface is less important than the size. Buy them big, at least 18 × 12 inches for the carving board, which should have a trench to collect juices. I find I need at least two chopping boards for any meal, except breakfast.
Tongs: I’m not sure if tongs is singular, but one (a pair) proves a singular tool when cooking at a hot stove. I think of the tongs as an extension of my hand, one that keeps me from burning it over a gas flame or under a broiler and that turns steaks in a gentle grasp without puncturing the meat. I have two sets (two pair?) so I can remain sane when one is in the dishwasher.
Pans: My standbys are 12- and 10-inch skillets with a nonstick surface. This allows me to use a minimum of oil. Nonstick pans, greatly improved in quality and endurance, also are very good for steaks that are cooked with a coating or after being marinated. A 10-inch cast-iron frying pan and a wok are tops for searing food and cooking it at high heat.
To season a new cast-iron frying pan or carbon-steel wok, rub lightly with oil inside and out and bake in a 300°F oven for 1 hour. The surface will become nonstick and resist rusting. From time to time, apply a light coating of oil after the pan has been cleaned and dried. Do not scour with steel wool.
Enameled cast-iron casserole: This pot goes from stovetop to oven (and sometimes refrigerator) while providing a perfect environment for moist-heat braises and stews featuring downtown steak cuts.
Ridged stovetop grill: This is a square pan with a handle and ridges across the cooking surface. The pan needs to be seasoned, but thereafter it is flawless in reproducing grill marks, grill taste, and grill smell for steaks and vegetables. As noted elsewhere, using it will create more smoke than your smoke alarm thinks is good for you.
Mortar and pestle: Don’t misunderstand. I own and use a food processor. But the romance in the mortar and pestle is its links to the earliest kitchens and the practicality is in the way it reduces spices, herbs, and aromatics without destroying them.
Custard cups: I also find all manner of uses for a raft of 5- and 10-ounce clear custard cups. I pile them around my chopping board to fill when preparing Asian recipes—or any others that call for adding ingredients in quick succession.