Transport
Getting There & Away
Entering Goa
Unless you're on a charter flight, getting to Goa requires flying in to one of India's major international gateways – Mumbai (Bombay), Chennai (Madras) or Delhi – and taking a connecting flight or overland transport from there. The most popular entry point is Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport.
Once in India, you can enter Goa with no border restrictions.
Climate Change and Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Air
Airports & Airlines
International Flights
Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (
%022-66851010; www.csia.in) is India's second busiest after Delhi and the usual entry point for non-charter flight passengers coming to Goa. If you're flying in from the east (Southeast Asia or Australasia), Chennai and Kochi (Cochin) are also useful entry points.
Goa’s only airport is the pint-sized and newly refurbished Dabolim Airport (DABOLIM, Goa International Airport; %0832-2540806), around 30km from Goa’s capital, Panaji (Panjim). Somewhat controversial plans are under consideration to build a second airport at Mopa in the state's north.
A handful of charter companies operate seasonal international flights directly into Dabolim Airport, most from the UK, Germany and Russia. Aeroflot, Finnair, Etihad, Air Arabia and Novair also fly in Russian and Scandinavian package holidaymakers who make up some 40% of Goa's annual international visitors.
Domestic Flights
Several budget airlines, along with the national carrier Air India, operate direct daily flights between Goa and Mumbai, Chennai, Delhi, Bengalura (Bangalore), Hyderabad and several other cities. A return flight to Mumbai with a low-cost carrier such as SpiceJet can cost as little as US$70 if booked a few weeks in advance. You can book online directly with the airline or through a booking site.
Dabolim Airport’s arrivals hall is equipped with currency exchange, ATMs and a prepaid taxi counter.
Domestic airlines flying into and out of Goa include:
Indigo (
GOOGLE MAP
; %call centre 0 99 10383838; book.goindigo.in)
GoAir (%092-23222111; www.goair.in)
SpiceJet (%airport 0987-1803333; www.spicejet.com)
CHARTER FLIGHTS TO GOA
Reliable charter flights into Goa from the UK or Germany:
Thomson Airlines (%0203-4512688; www.thomsonfly.com)
Monarch Airlines (%0333-0030100; www.monarch.co.uk)
Condor Airlines (www.condor.com)
Thomas Cook Airlines (www.thomascookairlines.com)
Land
Car
Hiring a self-drive car in any major Indian city and driving to Goa is possible, but given the dangers of the roads and the high cost, this sort of a rental isn’t particularly recommended.
A better choice is to make your way to the nearest taxi rank and start bargaining. Most drivers will happily charter their services for a day or even longer. The 600km trip from Mumbai to Goa takes about 14 hours; many drivers will happily do this in one stretch. You’ll have to pay for the taxi’s return trip, so the cost will be at least ₹15,000. Even if you’re part of a group, it’s quicker, cheaper and less stressful to fly or take the train in to Goa from any other city.
Bus
Private and state-run long distance buses run to and from Goa daily, and in many cases you can simply turn up at the bus station and jump on the next available bus.
For more comfortable VIP, air-con or sleeper buses you may need to book ahead, especially in peak season. You can do this directly at the bus station, through a travel agent or online through a booking agency.
State-run and private companies offer ‘ordinary’, ‘deluxe’ 'superfast' and VIP services, but definitions are flexible. The most comfortable are the Volvo buses with reclining seating and air conditioning.
Many long-distance buses travel overnight – bring earplugs if you want to block out the Bollywood movies on the video screens.
On some routes such as Goa–Mumbai and Goa–Hampi, flat-berth sleeper buses are available. While these can be comfortable, bus travel is not like train travel – you might wake to find yourself flying out of bed on the first sharp corner.
Travel into and out of Mumbai's city traffic is interminably slow.
Online booking agencies include Kadamba (www.goakadamba.com), Make My Trip (www.makemytrip.com), Paulo Travels (%0832-6637777; www.phmgoa.com), Red Bus (www.redbus.in).
Interstate Buses
Buses for Mumbai and other cities depart from Panaji, Margao and Mapusa daily.
Mumbai (₹350 to ₹1100, 12 to 14 hours)
Bengaluru (₹600 to ₹1200, 14 to 15 hours)
Hampi (private sleeper; ₹900 to ₹1100, 10 to 11 hours)
Pune (₹325 to ₹1000, 11 hours)
Train
The 760km-long Konkan Railway, completed in 1998, is the main train line running through the state, connecting Goa with Mumbai to the north, and Mangalore to the south.
For services, fares and bookings check the Konkan Railway website (www.konkanrailway.com), Indian Railways (www.indianrail.gov.in; www.erail.in), Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com/trains) or Makemytrip (www.makemytrip.com/railways)
Children under the age of five travel for free; those between five and 12 are charged half price.
The main train stations in Goa are Madgaon station in Margao; Vasco da Gama; and Karmali station near Old Goa, 12km from Panaji.
In-person train bookings are best made at Margao’s station, at the train reservation office at Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand or at any travel agent selling train tickets.
Book as far in advance as possible for sleepers, as they fill up quickly, though a limited number of tickets go on sale the day before travel, so it's always worth checking. Reservation fees generally range from ₹40 to ₹60, or slightly more if booking through a travel agent.
Even if there are no seats, passengers cancel and there are regular no-shows. Buying a ticket on the waiting list or as a ‘Reservation Against Cancellation’ (RAC) will usually get you a seat or sleeper berth.
Other useful Goan railway stations (which not all interstate trains stop at) include Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa, and Canacona for Palolem.
Train Classes
There are several different classes, but not all are available on all trains. Sleeper berths are converted to bench seats by day.
AC First Class (1A) Air-conditioned accommodation in simple two-berth or four-berth lockable compartments. Bedclothes and meals are provided.
AC 2 Tier (2A) Two-tier berths arranged in groups of two and four-berth curtained compartments in an air-conditioned, open-plan carriage.
AC 3 Tier (3AC) Three-tier berths arranged in groups of six in an open-plan air-con carriage.
First Class (FC) A non-AC version of AC 1st Class (1AC).
AC Chair Car (CC) Air-conditioned carriage with reclining seats.
Sleeper (SL) Similar to AC 3 Tier (3AC) but without air-conditioning. Instead there are fans and open windows.
Second Sitting (2S) Unreserved second-class seating on plastic chairs or wooden benches.
MAJOR TRAINS FROM MARGAO (MADGAON))
| Destination | Train No & Name | Fare | Duration (Hours) | Departures |
| Mumbai (CST) | 10112 Konkan KanyaExpress | sleeper ₹390, 3AC ₹1055,2AC ₹1250 | 12 | 6pm |
| 10104 MandoviExpress | sleeper ₹390, 3AC ₹1055,2AC ₹1520 | 12 | 9.15am | |
| Mumbai(Dadar) | 12052 Jan ShatabdiExpress | second sitting ₹197, AC chair₹700 | 8½ | 2.50pm |
| Bangalore | 02779 Vasco daGama-SBC Link | sleeper ₹360, 3AC ₹970 | 15 | 3.50pm |
| Ernakulum(Kochi) | 12618 LakshadweepExpress | sleeper ₹445, 3AC ₹1165,2AC ₹1665 | 14½ | 7.20pm |
| Mangalore | 12133 MangaloreExpress | sleeper ₹290, 3AC ₹735, 2AC₹1035 | 5½ | 7.10am |
| Pune | 12779 Goa Express | sleeper ₹335, 3AC ₹930,2AC ₹1315 | 12 | 3.50pm |
Getting Around
Bicycle
Goa offers plenty of variety for cycling, certainly in the village back lanes. A bicycle can also be a convenient and ecofriendly way of getting around beach towns.
At most beach resorts in Goa you'll find people who are prepared to rent out a local, Indian-made, single-gear rattler, though mountain bikes are sometimes also available. Expect to pay around ₹50 to ₹100 per day.
For a longer stay of three months or more in Goa, consider buying a bicycle locally. Basic Indian road bikes (including Hero, Atlas, BSA and Raleigh) are available at bicycle shops in cities from ₹3500 and mountain bikes from ₹4000. You should be able to pick up a second-hand bike for ₹1000 to ₹1500.
If you want a quality machine for serious touring, bring your own, along with spare parts and accessories and a very strong bike lock.
Bus
An extensive network of buses shuttle to and from almost every tiny town and village, though the main hubs are Panaji, Margao and Mapusa. Travelling between north and south Goa you'll generally need to change buses at Margao, Panaji or both.
There are no timetables, but buses are frequent and usually have the destination posted (in English and Konkani) in the front window. Fares range from ₹5 to ₹40.
Local buses are mostly old rustbuckets and can be slow – stopping frequently to drop off or pick up passengers. Avoid bus travel on the busy, congested road between Candolim and Baga. Between Panaji and Margao or Mapusa, look for the faster 'express' buses.
Car
It’s easy in Goa to organise a private car with a driver (or simply a taxi) for long-distance day trips. Expect to pay from ₹2000 for a full day out on the road (usually defined as eight hours and 80km).
Self-drive hire cars start from ₹900 to ₹1200 per day for a small Maruti to upwards of ₹2000 for a large 4WD, excluding fuel and usually with a per kilometre limit. Your best bet for rental is online at sites such as www. goa2u.com and www.mygoatour.com.
Familiarise yourself with road signs: on Goa’s major NH66 national highway there are different speed limits for different types of vehicle.
Local Transport
Autorickshaw
An autorickshaw (also called an auto, three-wheeler or, outside of India, a tuk-tuk) is the quintessential Indian short-hop form of transport, a yellow-and-black three-wheeled contraption powered by a noisy two-stroke motorcycle engine. It's about a third cheaper than a taxi and generally a better option for short trips – count on a minimum ₹50 for a short journey and ₹100 for a slightly longer one.
Flag down an autorickshaw and negotiate the fare before you jump in; if the driver is charging too much, try another.
Motorcycle Taxi
Goa is the only state in India where motorcycles are a licensed form of taxi. You can tell the motorcycle taxis (or 'pilots') by the yellow front mudguard. They're not as common these days but you might see them gathering with taxis in towns and beach resorts. They cost half the equivalent taxi fare.
Taxi
Taxis, ranging from old Ford Ambassadors to slick air-conditioned Maruti vans, are widely available for hopping town-to-town.
A full day’s sightseeing, depending on the distance, is likely to be around ₹1500 to ₹2000.
Agree on a price before you agree to be a passenger. The exception is in Mumbai, where newer taxis are equipped with functioning meters.
WOMEN'S TAXI SERVICE
Women's Taxi ServiceTAXI
(%0832-2437437)
This excellent Goa Tourism initiative has put female drivers behind the wheel of modern, metered air-con taxis. They can only be booked in advance by phone and only females, couples or families are accepted as passengers. The female drivers are trained in first aid, customer service and even self-defence, while the vehicles are fitted with GPS monitoring and a panic button for ultimate peace of mind. Fares can even be paid with a credit card.
Motorcycle
Getting around Goa by scooter or motorcycle is the most popular form of private transport, both for locals and tourists. It's easy to hire one but riding is not without its perils and inexperienced (especially first-time) riders should give it careful consideration.
Driving Licence
An international driving permit is not technically mandatory, but it’s useful to bring one. The first thing a policeman will want to see if he stops you is your licence, and an international permit is incontrovertible. Permits are available from your home automobile association. In any case, carry your home drivers licence.
Fuel
Though subject to change, at the time of research unleaded petrol cost around ₹70 per litre.
Distances are generally short and small bikes (such as the Honda Kinetic or Activa) are very economical – at least 30km per litre.
There are increasing numbers of petrol stations in main towns including Panaji, Margao, Mapusa, Ponda and Vasco da Gama. There are also busy pumps near Vagator, Palolem and Arambol.
Where there are no petrol pumps, general stores sell petrol by the litre (usually in recycled water bottles at ₹80 to ₹100); beware that sometimes petrol in plastic bottles has been diluted.
Before hiring, ensure that the fuel gauge works.
Hire
Hiring a motorcycle in Goa is easy and cheap enough. Owners will probably find you, and are more often than not decent people who are just looking to make a bit of cash on the side. Another option is to ask at your hotel or guesthouse.
Private bike owners are not technically allowed to rent out a machine, so if you are stopped by the police for any reason, your hirer would prefer that you say you have borrowed it from a ‘friend’.
Make sure registration papers are in the bike – it gives the police one less argument against you.
Which Motorbike?
At the base of the scale are the most popular rental bikes – gearless scooters such as the 100cc Honda Kinetics, Activa or Bajaj scooters. They are extremely practical and easy to ride. You only need a car driving licence to ride these bikes.
Next up are the 100cc and 135cc bikes – Yamaha being the most common. Fuel economy is good, they go faster than a Kinetic, and are more comfortable over long distances. You’ll need a motorcycle licence and some riding experience.
At the top of the pile are the classic thumping Enfield Bullets, made in India since the 1950s. They are far less fuel-friendly, require more maintenance than the others, are heavy and take a little getting used to – but they provide the ultimate street cred. Most Enfields available for hire are 350cc, but there are also some 500cc models around.
Costs & Practicalities
Outside of the high season you can get a scooter for as little as ₹150 per day. During high season (December to February) the standard rate is ₹250 to ₹350 (up to double that over Christmas peak).
Expect to pay ₹400 for a 100cc bike and up to ₹700 for an Enfield.
The longer you hire a bike (and the older it is), the cheaper it becomes.
Make absolutely sure that you agree with the owner about the price. Clarify whether one day is 24 hours, and that you won’t be asked to pay extra for keeping it overnight.
You may be asked to pay cash up front; get a written receipt.
Always get the mobile phone number of the owner in case something goes wrong with the bike; this works both ways.
Take note of any damage, dings or scratches when you hire and write them down or take a snapshot of the bike so the owner won't accuse you of causing it. Conversely, you'll be expected to pay up for any damage.
On the Road
Road Conditions & Safety
Goan roads can be treacherous, filled with human, bovine, canine, feline, mechanical and avian obstacles, as well as a good sprinkling of potholes and hairpin bends.
Be on the lookout for ‘speed breakers’. Speed humps are stand-alone back breakers or come in triplets. They can be hard to spot, especially at night.
Take it slowly, try not to drive at night (country lanes are poorly lit), and don’t attempt a north–south day trip on a 50cc bike.
Goa’s main NH66 is a highway in name only: aside from a multilane stretch between Panaji and Margao, it's single-lane each way and consequently can be a little congested.
Road Rules
Driving is on the left, vehicles give way to the right and road signs are universal pictorial signs.
Helmets are mandatory for two-wheelers in Goa though most riders continue to ignore this. In theory you can be pulled over and fined for not wearing one and the safety implications are obvious.
At busy intersections, traffic police are often on hand to reduce the chaos. Otherwise, make good use of your horn.
Speed limits range from 30km/h to 60km/h. The blood alcohol limit is 0.03% – the equivalent of just one standard drink for most people.
The highway code in India can be reduced to one essential truth – ‘Might is Right’ – meaning the bigger the vehicle, the more priority you’re accorded. Motorbikes sit only above bicycles and pedestrians on the food chain!
Organised Tours
Classic Bike Adventure (www.classic-bike-india.com; Assagao) This well-established Goan company organises motorbike tours on Enfields through the Himalaya, Nepal, South India and Goa.
Enfield Riders (%9821688770; www.enfieldriders.com) Mumbai-based outfit that maintains a fleet of Royal Enfield motorcycles and organises tours around Goa and further afield.
Live India (%0845-2241917; www.liveindia.co.uk) UK-based outfit offering all-inclusive tours of Goa on Enfield Bullets.
GOA'S FERRIES
One of the joys of day tripping in Goa is a short ride on one of the state’s few remaining vehicle/passenger ferries, which, until the recent addition of road bridges spanning Goa’s wide and wonderful rivers, formed a crucial means of transport for locals. Most ferries run every half hour or so (busy routes run non-stop) from around 7am to 10pm. The ferries are free to pedestrians and two-wheelers.
Panaji to Betim The most popular ferry and a useful short cut to the northern beaches.
Ribandar to Chorao Island For Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
Train
Goa’s rail services, though great for getting to and from the state, aren’t particularly useful for getting around it. It's usually quicker and more convenient to travel by bus, taxi or under your own steam. An exception is travelling the length of the state, say from Arambol or Mapusa to Palolem, which would otherwise require several bus changes.
There are two railways in Goa: the South Central Railway runs east from Vasco da Gama, through Margao and into Karnataka. This line is most useful for day tripping to Dudhsagar Falls via Colem station.
The interstate Konkan Railway train line passes through Goa: stations from north to south in Goa are: Pernem (for Arambol), Thivim (for Mapusa), Karmali (for Old Goa and Panaji), Verna, Margao (for Colva and Benaulim), Bali, Barcem and Canacona (for Palolem).