Appetizers, Snacks, and Cocktails
Crisp Chicken Wings with Spicy Sichuan Caramel
The Parties chapter is dedicated to dinner party recipes, but this section is also geared toward entertaining—occasions when you might need a crunchy snack or a plate of wings, a warm cheese dip or mulled wine. It’s a bit of a hodgepodge, I know, but sometimes an occasion calls for chawan mushi and sometimes it calls for cheddar dip, and there’s nothing wrong with that.
Crisp Chicken Wings with Spicy Sichuan Caramel
Smoked Paprika and Maple Candied Nuts with Rosemary
Chawan Mushi with Scallops and Shiitakes
Slow-Cooker Cheese Dips: Three Ideas
Sharp Cheddar and Peppadew Dip
Garlicky Ricotta and Swiss Chard Dip
Whipped Feta, Red Pepper, and Olive Dip
Star Anise–Black Pepper Hot Toddy
Warm Triple-Citrus Bourbon Punch
Swedish Spiced White Wine with Almonds
Crisp Chicken Wings with Spicy Sichuan Caramel
I’m a sucker for anything sweet-spicy, and these wings are very much both. Sichuan peppercorns add a floral, piney flavor. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle to crush the peppercorns, you can just put them on a cutting board, lay a heavy skillet or pot over the top, and press down to crush.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
3 pounds split chicken wings (mixed drumettes and wingettes)
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
3½ teaspoons kosher salt
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns, coarsely crushed in a mortar and pestle
3 tablespoons red pepper flakes, or more to taste
2 teaspoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Torn fresh cilantro leaves, for serving (optional)
1. Combine the wings, oil, and 2 teaspoons of the salt in a 5- to 8-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook until the wings register an internal temperature of at least 160˚F when tested with an instant-read thermometer: on LOW for 3 hours (preferable, because the wings cook more evenly) or on HIGH for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. The wings will not get browned or crisp, but don’t worry—you’re going to take care of that in the broiler.
2. Preheat the broiler on high and position a rack about 6 inches below the heat source (if that’s how your broiler is configured). Remove the wings from the slow cooker with tongs (leaving the drippings behind) and place them on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil the wings until the skin gets crisp and golden, flipping once, 5 to 10 minutes per side, 10 to 20 minutes total, depending on the strength of your broiler.
3. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, combine the sugar, peppercorns, red pepper flakes, and vinegar. Season the mixture with the remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and put it over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. (The ingredients will liquefy into a savory caramel sauce.) Let the glaze just start to bubble, give it a stir, and then turn off the heat and stir in the butter until melted and smooth.
4. Pour the glaze into a large bowl that will fit all the wings comfortably. When the wings are crisp, immediately add them to the bowl and toss to evenly coat the wings in glaze. Top with cilantro, if desired, and serve right away.
Good to know: You can find Sichuan peppercorns at a Chinese market, the Mala Market (themalamarket.com), or on Amazon.
Holds on warm through step 1 for a maximum of 1 hour • Prep time: 5 minutes • Slow-cook time: 2 to 3 hours • Finish time: 20 minutes • Equipment: 5- to 8-quart slow cooker
See photo.
This updated Chex mix is inspired by a category of Indian snacks called chaat—in particular bhel puri, an addictive snack mix that includes puffed rice and is popular in Mumbai. Chaat masala is a spice blend that’s tart, hot, and a little sulfurous. If you can’t find it, use all curry powder—it is not at all the same but will still be tasty. Most chaat masala has salt in it already, so you probably don’t need to add more (though, as always, taste at the end, and if it’s a little flat, add salt). If you’re using unsalted curry powder, though, season the melted butter mixture with 1½ teaspoons kosher salt. The snack mix keeps well in a sealed container at room temperature for up to a week.
MAKES 10 CUPS
3 cups Rice Chex cereal
3 cups Corn Chex cereal
2 cups puffed rice
1 cup unsalted cashews
1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes (chips)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon chaat masala
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 cup chopped dried mango
½ cup golden raisins
1. Combine the Chex, puffed rice, cashews, and coconut in a 5- to 8-quart slow cooker. In a small pot over low heat, melt the butter. Stir in the chaat masala, red pepper flakes, curry powder, and garlic powder. Pour the spiced, melted butter over the mixture in the slow cooker and toss well to coat evenly. Prop the lid partly open with a wooden spoon and cook on HIGH for 1 hour 30 minutes, stirring every 30 minutes to toast evenly.
2. Spread the warm cereal mix on a baking sheet. Toss in the dried mango and raisins. Let cool completely at room temperature. Store the mix in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a week.
Does not hold well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour 30 minutes, with occasional stirring • Finish time: 5 minutes plus cooling • Equipment: 5- to 8-quart slow cooker
See photo.
Smoked Paprika and Maple Candied Nuts with Rosemary
TOP: Smoked Paprika and Maple Candied Nuts with Rosemary
BOTTOM: Mumbai Chaat Chex Mix
Here’s another variation on the sweet-savory theme. These lacquered nuts are most at home on a cheese plate, but they’re also a wonderfully all-purpose snack and gift, especially around the holidays. I prefer to use unsalted nuts, so I can control the seasoning myself, but this will also work with salted nuts—just leave out the salt. Use any combination of nuts you like. I’ve done this with mixed nuts as well as just almonds and pecans, which is a very appealing combination.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
1 pound mixed unsalted roasted nuts (about 2 cups)
¼ cup pure maple syrup
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if necessary
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1½ teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1. Line a 5- to 8-quart slow cooker with a sheet of parchment paper, making sure it comes up the sides at least 2 inches (see How to Line a Slow Cooker with Parchment). Combine the nuts, maple syrup, butter, salt, paprika, cinnamon, and red pepper flakes in the lined cooker and stir to combine evenly. Cover and cook on HIGH for 1 hour.
2. Uncover and stir well, concentrating on the edges against the insert walls, where burning is most likely. Set the lid ajar to leave a gap or vent of about 2 inches across and cook on HIGH until the maple syrup is reduced and sticky and the nuts smell toasty, 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes more (the larger your slow cooker, the shorter the cook time), stirring every 30 minutes to prevent burning around the edges.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Grabbing the edges of the parchment liner in the slow cooker, lift the nuts out of the insert and carefully pour them out onto the prepared baking sheet. (The maple syrup is very hot, so be careful not to touch it.) Sprinkle the rosemary over the top and stir to combine and spread the nuts out evenly. Let cool completely at room temperature. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Store the nuts in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
Does not hold well on warm • Prep time: 5 minutes • Slow-cook time: 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes, with occasional stirring • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 5- to 8-quart slow cooker
Chawan Mushi with Scallops and Shiitakes
Chawan mushi is a silken, quivery steamed custard from Japan in which flavorful dashi stock is just barely held together with a few eggs. I love the delicate richness of scallops in this dish because their texture echoes the custard itself, but you can also use chopped shrimp. Food scientist Harold McGee says in his book On Food and Cooking that this dish is a combination of custard and soup—so the desired result is a very, very delicate custard with some lovely aromatic soup squidging out when you spoon into it.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Two 4 × 3-inch pieces kombu seaweed or the equivalent in surface area (about .3 ounce)
⅓ cup (.176 ounce or 5 grams) dried bonito flakes
3 large eggs plus 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon soy sauce, plus more for serving
Small pinch of kosher salt
2 shiitake mushrooms, caps only, thinly sliced
4 sea scallops, quartered
1 scallion, trimmed, light green and white parts thinly sliced, and dark green parts sliced and reserved for topping
1. Combine 2 cups cold water and the kombu in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring the water just to a boil and remove the pan from the heat. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove and discard the kombu. Stir in the bonito flakes and let steep for 3 minutes. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and strain the broth into a bowl or container. You just made dashi! Put the dashi in the refrigerator to cool to at least room temperature. To speed this up, fill a large bowl with ice water and then set the bowl of dashi into the larger bowl before refrigerating. (You can make the dashi 1 day in advance and refrigerate it in an airtight container.)
2. In a medium bowl or large liquid measuring cup, combine the dashi with the beaten eggs and yolk, mirin, soy sauce, and salt and gently whisk. You want all the ingredients to combine evenly, but you don’t want the mixture to get frothy.
3. Evenly divide the shiitakes, scallops, and scallion (white and light green parts) among four 1-cup (8-ounce) oven-safe glass or ceramic bowls or ramekins. Give the egg-dashi mixture one last gentle stir, then pour it into the ramekins, dividing it evenly. Blow on the surfaces of the custards to get rid of any little bubbles—it’s not essential to get rid of them, but the finished custards look nicer with a smooth surface.
4. Pour 4 cups water into the slow cooker, to a depth of about 1 inch. Carefully place the ramekins into the slow cooker, making sure not to jostle any water into the ramekins. (The water should come about halfway up the side of the bottom layer of the ramekins.) You might be able to set them all into the cooker in a single layer. If not, place 3 ramekins into the insert and then balance the remaining ramekin on top of the others. Place a double layer of paper towels over the top of the cooker to soak up condensation, leaving some overhang so that the paper towels don’t fall onto the ramekins, and then close the lid on top of the paper towels (see Getting the Most Out of Your Slow Cooker: Techniques for a how-to). Cook on LOW until the custards are just set but still jiggly, 3 hours.
5. Turn off and uncover the slow cooker. Let the ramekins cool just enough for you to be able to reach in and pull them out. Serve the chawan mushi warm or chilled, topped with the reserved sliced scallion and a drizzle of soy sauce.
Good to know: Both kombu and bonito flakes are available on Amazon.
Does not hold well on warm • Prep time: 15 minutes, plus cooling the dashi • Slow-cook time: 3 hours • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 6-quart or larger slow cooker, cheesecloth, and four 1-cup (8-ounce) oven-safe glass or ceramic bowls or ramekins
Slow-Cooker Cheese Dips: Three Ideas
A slow cooker on warm can serve a dip at the perfect temperature for a couple of hours. You’ll notice that the three cheese dips that follow have very different personalities, but they all contain cream cheese—that’s to make sure they stay creamy and smooth, because melted cheese by itself can get grainy if kept warm. Leftover dip can be used as a sandwich spread or a pasta sauce (loosen it with pasta cooking water).
Sharp Cheddar and Peppadew Dip
This party dip was inspired by pimento cheese. I love the sweet-tangy-spicy bite that the Peppadew peppers add, but you can certainly use chopped drained pimentos or roasted red peppers instead.
MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS
1 pound full-fat cream cheese (not cream cheese spread), at room temperature, cut into pieces
1 pound sharp cheddar, grated (about 4 cups)
8 ounces smoked gouda, rind removed, grated (about 2 cups)
1 cup drained, sliced Peppadew peppers, hot or mild (I prefer hot)
Red pepper flakes to taste
Toasted rustic bread strips and celery sticks, for serving
1. In a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker, stir together the cream cheese, cheddar cheese, and gouda. Cover and cook on LOW until most of the cheese is melted or almost melted, about 1 hour.
2. With a handheld electric mixer on high speed, beat the dip until it’s creamy and uniform, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to WARM and fold in the sliced peppers. Taste and season with red pepper flakes. Serve the dip from the slow cooker, still set on WARM, with toasted bread strips and celery for dipping. To store leftover dip, let it cool and then spoon it into a sealable container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
See photo.
Garlicky Ricotta and Swiss Chard Dip
This is like ravioli filling in dip form. Feel free to substitute collards, kale, or mustard greens for the chard.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
1 bunch of Swiss chard (10 to 12 ounces), stemmed
16 ounces whole milk ricotta
8 ounces full-fat cream cheese (not cream cheese spread), at room temperature, cut into pieces
5 ounces Parmesan, finely grated (about 1½ cups)
4 garlic cloves, grated or minced
Juice of ½ lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Endive leaves, baby carrots, radishes, and crackers, for serving
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the chard, stir, and cook until just wilted, about 30 seconds. Drain, then run under cold water to stop the cooking. Thoroughly squeeze the greens dry and blot them on a paper towel or kitchen towel. Finely chop the greens and put them into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker.
2. Add the ricotta, cream cheese, Parmesan, garlic, and lemon juice to the slow cooker and season with 1 teaspoon of salt and a generous amount of pepper. Stir to fully combine. Cover and cook on LOW until heated through and creamy, about 1 hour.
3. Reduce the heat to WARM, stir well, and taste for seasoning. Serve the dip from the slow cooker, with vegetables and crackers on the side. To store leftover dip, let it cool and then spoon it into a sealable container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 15 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
Whipped Feta, Red Pepper, and Olive Dip
The sharp, briny flavors of feta and olives balance the richness of this creamy dip. Use the best feta you can lay your hands on and avoid those that are pre-crumbled.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
11 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 2½ cups)
8 ounces full-fat cream cheese (not cream cheese spread), at room temperature, cut into pieces
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
2 tablespoons white wine
8 ounces jarred roasted red peppers, drained and chopped (about ⅔ cup) ⅓ cup sliced, pitted kalamata olives
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
Pita chips, lavash, and assorted raw vegetables, for serving
1. Combine the feta and cream cheese in a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Use a handheld electric mixer to whip the feta and cream cheese until fluffy. Fold in the remaining ingredients except the chips and other dippers. Cover and cook on LOW until warmed through, about 1 hour.
2. Reduce the heat to WARM, stir well, and serve the dip from the slow cooker, with the bread and vegetables on the side.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 15 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
Swedish Spiced White Wine with Almonds and Mexican-Style Hot Chocolate
I love a warm cocktail in the wintertime. But when you keep a pot of spiced wine going on the stovetop, it’s hard to keep the heat low enough so that the drink doesn’t taste overly cooked and reduced. Also, alcohol burns off at about 170˚F, so if there’s booze in that simmering pot, it’s lost its potency.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Star Anise–Black Pepper Hot Toddy, Warm Triple-Citrus Bourbon Punch, Kentucky Nightcap
The solution: Serve a cocktail in a slow cooker set on warm. It’s the perfect temperature for sipping and for maintaining the alcohol’s pop. In the unlikely event of leftovers, all these cocktails keep well in the fridge for at least a week, and can also be served chilled.
Star Anise–Black Pepper Hot Toddy
A hot toddy is made many different ways all around the world, but at its simplest, it’s just hot water, lemon juice, honey, and booze—a cure for whatever ails you in the wintertime. This is a more festive, spiced version with a black tea base. English breakfast tea is especially good with the black pepper and star anise, but Earl Grey would be nice, too. Decaf versions of those teas are also totally fair game.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
5 whole star anise
2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
8 black tea bags
¾ cup honey, plus more to taste
2 cinnamon sticks
¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to taste
2 cups rye whiskey
Lemon zest twists or lemon wheels, for serving
1. Put the star anise and peppercorns on a piece of cheesecloth and tie it into a bundle using kitchen twine or a thin strip of cheesecloth. (This makes it easier to serve without getting black peppercorns in your cup, but if you don’t have cheesecloth, don’t worry—just put the spices into the slow cooker.) Put the bundle into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add 10 cups water, the tea bags, honey, and cinnamon sticks. Cover and cook until the mixture tastes like good tea, about 2 hours on HIGH.
2. Reduce the heat to WARM. Pull out the tea bags, squeeze them over the pot to extract their liquid, and discard. Stir in the lemon juice and whiskey. Taste and add more honey or lemon juice if you feel it needs it. Serve from the slow cooker, still set on WARM, in mugs garnished with lemon zest twists or lemon wheels.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 5 minutes • Slow-cook time: 2 hours • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker and cheesecloth
See photo.
Warm Triple-Citrus Bourbon Punch
This is for occasions when a real cocktail is called for: It’s boozy and not too sweet, very citrusy. In the first step, you macerate orange peel and sugar to make an aromatic sugar called oleo saccharum, which is a fancy ye olde cocktail term for oily sugar. It punches up the orange flavor substantially.
MAKES ABOUT 16 SERVINGS
Zest of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler
⅓ cup sugar
3 cups orange juice
1 cup grapefruit juice
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more if necessary
4 thin lemon slices
¼ cup honey, plus more to taste
10 whole cloves
4 cups bourbon
2 teaspoons orange curaçao (optional)
10 dashes of bitters, preferably orange bitters, but any kind will do
Orange wheels or twists, for serving (optional)
1. Combine the orange zest strips and the sugar in a zip- top bag. Close the bag and massage the mixture to combine. Let it sit at room temperature, massaging once or twice, for at least 5 hours. (You can also throw the bag into the fridge and let it sit for up to 2 weeks before using it.)
2. Scrape all the sugar and syrup off the orange zest strips and put the sugar and syrup into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Discard the orange zest strips. Add 2½ cups water; the orange, grapefruit, and lemon juices; lemon slices; honey; and cloves. Cover and cook on HIGH until hot, 1 to 2 hours.
3. Reduce the heat to WARM and pour in the bourbon, curaçao (if desired), and bitters. Stir to combine and taste. Add more honey and/or water if the cocktail is too acidic for you or more lemon juice if you’d like it tangier. Serve from the slow cooker, still set on WARM, and if desired, garnish with orange wheels or twists.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 5 minutes plus 6 hours macerating • Slow-cook time: 1 to 2 hours • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
See photo.
The combination of creamy coconut and strong coffee with light and dark rum and almond liqueur is just outrageously good. If you want to serve this at a cocktail party, don’t add the sugar at first; taste and see if you think it’s needed. You might want to add just a little or let your friends add it to their mugs to taste. Or you could take this all the way into dessert land: Add the sugar and top with the whipped cream and coconut and/or almonds. Keep in mind that you can always use decaf coffee if you like; it won’t affect the flavor.
MAKES ABOUT 16 SERVINGS
6 cups strong brewed hot coffee
One 13.6-ounce can unsweetened coconut cream (not cream of coconut)
2 cups gold (amber) rum
1 cup dark rum
1½ cups amaretto
¼ cup sugar, plus more to taste (optional)
Whipped cream and sliced almonds and/or toasted unsweetened coconut flakes (optional)
Combine 1 cup of the hot coffee and the coconut cream in a blender and blend until the mixture is very smooth. Pour the mixture into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker and add the rest of the hot coffee, the gold and dark rums, and the amaretto. If you would like to take this in the direction of an after-dinner dessert cocktail, add the sugar and taste to see if you want to add more. Set the slow cooker on WARM and serve the cocktail from the cooker. Top each serving with whipped cream and almonds or coconut, if desired.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: Ready immediately; serve on warm • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
Swedish Spiced White Wine with Almonds
This is adapted from a Marcus Samuelsson recipe that I worked on at Food & Wine—it’s aromatic with cardamom, ginger, and orange and makes a refreshing change from more common (and, let’s be honest, kind of dull) mulled red wine. The slivered almonds give a gentle flavor and crunch.
MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon green cardamom pods
4 cinnamon sticks
One 2-inch ginger knob, peeled and sliced into thin planks
12 whole cloves
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Two 3-inch strips orange zest, removed with a vegetable peeler
1½ cups sugar
Two 750-ml bottles dry white wine
1 cup dry rosé
1 cup vodka
½ cup slivered blanched almonds
1. Put the cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves on a piece of cheesecloth and tie it into a bundle using kitchen twine or a thin strip of cheesecloth. Put the bundle into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Using a sharp paring knife, halve the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and add the bean halves and seeds to the slow cooker. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Set the slow cooker on LOW and cook for 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to WARM and cook for another 30 minutes to infuse the aromatics into the wine and warm the cocktail through.
2. Uncover, remove and discard the cheesecloth bundle, vanilla bean halves, and zest strips with a slotted spoon, and serve from the slow cooker with the setting still on WARM.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 20 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker and cheesecloth
See photo.
Traditional Mexican hot chocolate is more complex and aromatic than its American counterpart. This big-batch, slow-cooker version is flavored with vanilla, almond, warm spices like cinnamon, and a little bit of cayenne. You can sometimes find discs of prespiced Mexican chocolate at the grocery store that are designed for making hot cocoa, but I prefer to control the spicing and sugar myself. The only thing this is missing is the frothy top that’s usually created with a special wooden whisk called a molinillo. If you want to re-create that texture, carefully froth the hot chocolate with an immersion blender set in the slow cooker before serving.
MAKES ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
8 cups whole milk
14 ounces dark or bittersweet (about 70% cacao) chocolate, finely chopped (about 3 cups)
½ cup packed light brown sugar, plus more to taste
3 cinnamon sticks
Generous pinch of kosher salt
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 to 2 teaspoons almond extract, to taste
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch of cayenne, plus more for topping
Whipped cream and cocoa powder, for topping (both optional)
Mezcal or tequila, 1.5 ounces per serving (3 tablespoons), for spiking (optional)
1. Combine the milk, chocolate, sugar, cinnamon sticks, and salt in a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Whisk well, then cover and cook on LOW heat until the chocolate is melted, about 1 hour. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is smooth.
2. Reduce the heat to WARM and stir in the vanilla and almond extracts, nutmeg, and cayenne. Taste and whisk in a little more sugar if you would prefer it sweeter. Serve from the slow cooker, still set on WARM, and if desired, top each mug with whipped cream, a light dusting of cocoa, and cayenne. Spike with mezcal if you’d like.
Good to know: You can make the hot chocolate ahead through step 1 and then refrigerate it for up to 3 days. Pour it into the slow cooker and reheat on WARM until it’s warmed through, about 1 hour. Whisk to smooth it out and proceed with step 2.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
See photo.
Fort Defiance in Red Hook, Brooklyn, is everything you want a neighborhood restaurant to be—it’s comfortable and friendly; serves a great burger, deviled eggs, and oysters; and makes delicious cocktails. In the winter I always get the Kentucky Nightcap after dinner. It’s soothing and so tasty: barely sweet steamed milk and bourbon, almost like a warm bourbon milk punch. This is my humble re-creation, with vanilla bean for extra deliciousness. (For this, it’s really worth it to get a vanilla bean rather than using extract.) Put out a slow cooker filled with this cocktail at the end of a dinner party and watch everyone get reeeeeally relaxed.
MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
6 cups whole milk
¾ cup honey
Generous pinch of kosher salt
2 cups bourbon
1. Using a sharp paring knife, halve the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and put the bean halves and seeds in a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add the milk, honey, and salt and cook for 2 hours on LOW.
2. Uncover the cooker and reduce the heat to WARM. Remove the vanilla bean halves and discard. Pour in the bourbon and serve from the slow cooker, still set on WARM.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: 2 hours • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker
See photo.
Toasting the spices in a dry skillet before adding them to the cider intensifies their flavors. Black peppercorns add an unexpected but subtle spiciness.
MAKES ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
3 cinnamon sticks
2 teaspoons cardamom pods
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon whole allspice
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon whole cloves
5 cups apple cider
3 cups pear juice or nectar
One 2-inch ginger knob, peeled
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, coriander, allspice, peppercorns, and cloves, stirring them and watching carefully so they don’t burn, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Put the toasted spices on a piece of cheesecloth and tie them into a bundle using a piece of kitchen twine or a thin strip of cheesecloth. (If you don’t have cheesecloth, it’s not the end of the world; just put the spices directly in the cooker. But it’s nicer to drink the cider without worrying about crunching on whole spices.)
2. Put the spice bundle into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. Add the cider, pear juice, ginger, vanilla, and salt, then cover and cook on HIGH for 2 hours. Reduce the heat to WARM, remove and discard the ginger knob with tongs or a slotted spoon (you can leave the spice bundle in there to infuse further, or remove and discard it if you prefer), and serve the cider from the slow cooker, still set on WARM.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 10 minutes • Slow-cook time: 2 hours • Finish time: 5 minutes • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker and cheesecloth
Traditional buttered rum is usually a warm mixture of rum, a little sugar, and melted butter. The only problem is that butter and rum don’t emulsify, and the fat floats to the surface, which is not very appetizing, no matter how much you love butter. So some very smart bartenders like Eben Freeman came up with a technique called fat washing: You just combine a fat (any fat, even bacon drippings) with alcohol, let them sit together long enough for the fat’s flavor to infuse into the alcohol, and then remove the solidified fat. This is a slow-cooker adaptation of Freeman’s recipe for brown buttered rum: You let brown butter infuse into rum for 2 days and then use the infused rum to make a warm cocktail. It tastes like the essence of butterscotch.
MAKES ABOUT 16 SERVINGS
4 cups dark spiced rum
1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
2 generous pinches of kosher salt
1 vanilla bean
1. Pour the rum into a large jar or other heatproof, sealable container with a capacity of at least 7 cups. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. After the butter melts, continue to cook it, swirling the pan occasionally, until the foamy white butter solids start to turn golden brown and smell nutty. Some of the solids will sink to the bottom of the skillet, where they could start to burn, so watch carefully and turn off the heat as soon as the solids turn toasty and brown. Let the butter cool for a few seconds, then pour it into the rum and stir. Let the mixture cool completely at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for 2 days.
2. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth. Using a large spoon, poke a hole in the solidified butter on top of the rum and strain the rum directly into a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker. (If you don’t have cheesecloth, strain it twice through the strainer.)
3. Add 5 cups water to the slow cooker. Stir in the sugar and salt. Using a sharp paring knife, halve the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and add the bean halves and seeds to the slow cooker. Cover and cook on LOW for 1 hour, until just warmed through (don’t let it come close to a simmer). Reduce the heat to WARM, uncover, remove and discard the vanilla bean halves with a slotted spoon, and serve.
Holds well on warm • Prep time: 20 minutes plus 2 days infusing • Slow-cook time: 1 hour • Equipment: 4- to 6-quart slow cooker and cheesecloth
