Shopping in chic Paris is altogether tempting—even reluctant shoppers can find good reasons to indulge. Wandering among elegant boutiques provides a break from the heavy halls of the Louvre, and, if you approach it right, a little cultural enlightenment. Even if you don’t intend to buy anything, budget some time for window shopping, or, as the French call it, faire du lèche-vitrines (“window licking”).
Before you enter a Parisian store, remember the following points:
• In small stores, always say, “Bonjour, Madame or Mademoiselle or Monsieur” when entering. And remember to say “Au revoir, Madame or Mademoiselle or Monsieur” when leaving.
• The customer is not always right. In fact, figure the clerk is doing you a favor by waiting on you.
• Except in department stores, it’s not normal for the customer to handle clothing. Ask first before you pick up an item: “Je peux?” (zhuh puh), meaning, “Can I?”
• By law the price of items in a window display must be visible, often written on a slip of paper set on the floor or framed on the wall—a good indication of the shop’s general price range.
• For clothing size comparisons between the US and France, see the appendix.
• Forget returns (and don’t count on exchanges).
• Observe French shoppers. Then imitate.
• Saturday afternoons are très busy.
• Stores are generally closed on Sunday. Exceptions include the Galeries Lafayette store near the Opéra Garnier, the Carrousel du Louvre (underground shopping mall at the Louvre with a Printemps department store), and some shops near Sèvres-Babylone, along the Champs-Elysées, and in the Marais.
• Some small stores don’t open until 14:00 on Mondays.
• Don’t feel obliged to buy. If a shopkeeper offers assistance, just say, “Je regarde, merci.”
• For information on VAT refunds and customs regulations, see the Practicalities chapter.
Parisian department stores begin with their showy perfume and purse sections, almost always central on the ground floor, and worth a visit to see how much space is devoted to these luxuries. Helpful information desks are usually located at the main entrances near the perfume section (with floor plans in English). Stores generally have affordable restaurants (some with view terraces) and a good selection of fairly priced souvenirs and toys. Opening hours are customarily Monday through Saturday from 10:00 to 19:00 or 20:00. The major stores are open on Sundays and later on Thursdays, and all are jammed on Saturdays. You’ll find both Galeries Lafayette and Printemps stores in several neighborhoods. The most convenient and most elegant sit side by side behind the Opéra Garnier, complementing that monument’s similar, classy ambience (Mo: Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette, Havre-Caumartin, or Opéra, see map on here).
Give yourself a vacation from sightseeing by sifting through window displays, pausing at corner cafés, and feeling the rhythm of neighborhood life. (Or have you been playing hooky and doing this already?) Though smaller shops are more intimate, sales clerks are still formal—so mind your manners.
Most shops are closed on Sunday, which is the perfect day to head for the Marais, where many shops remain open on Sunday (and close on Saturday) and most of the neighborhood is off-limits to cars. For eclectic, avant-garde boutiques, peruse the artsy shops between Place des Vosges and the Pompidou Center.
The ritzy streets connecting several high-priced squares—Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Concorde, Place Vendôme, and Place de l’Opéra—form a miracle mile of gourmet food shops, glittering jewelry stores, posh hotels, exclusive clothing boutiques, and people who spend more on clothes in one day than I do in a year. This walk highlights the value Parisians place on outrageously priced products.
Start at Eglise de la Madeleine (Mo: Madeleine). In the northeast corner at #24 is the black-and-white awning of Fauchon. Founded on this location in 1886, this bastion of over-the-top edibles became famous around the world, catering to the refined tastes of the rich and famous. Hédiard (#21, northwest corner of the square) is older than Fauchon, and it’s weathered the tourist mobs a bit better, though it may be closed for renovation during your visit. Hédiard’s small red containers—of mustards, jams, coffee, candies, and tea—make great souvenirs.
Step inside tiny La Maison des Truffe (#19) to get a whiff of the product—truffles, those prized, dank, and dirty cousins of mushrooms. Check out the tiny jars in the display case. Ponder how something so ugly, smelly, and deformed can cost so much. The venerable Mariage Frères (#17) shop demonstrates how good tea can smell and how beautifully it can be displayed. At Caviar Kaspia (#16), you can add caviar, eel, and vodka to your truffle collection.
Continue along, past Marquise de Sévígné chocolates (#11) and Fauchon’s new razzle-dazzle hotel, then cross to the island in the middle of Boulevard Malesherbes. When the street officially opened in 1863, it ushered in the Golden Age of this neighborhood. Continue across Boulevard Malesherbes. Straight ahead is Patrick Roger Chocolates (#3), famous for its chocolates, and even more so for M. Roger’s huge, whimsical, 150-pound chocolate sculptures of animals and fanciful creatures.
Turning right down Rue Royale, there’s Dior, Chanel, and Gucci. At Rue St. Honoré, turn left and cross Rue Royale, pausing in the middle for a great view both ways. Check out Ladurée (#16) for an out-of-this-world pastry break in the busy 19th-century tea salon, or to just pick up some world-famous macarons. Continue east down Rue St. Honoré. The street is a three-block parade of chic boutiques—L’Oréal cosmetics, Jimmy Choo shoes, Valentino, and so on. Looking for a €1,000 handbag? This is your spot.
Find the shortcut on the left at #362 or turn left on Rue de Castiglione to reach Place Vendôme. This octagonal square is très elegant—enclosed by symmetrical Mansart buildings around a 150-foot column. On the left side is the original Hôtel Ritz, opened in 1898. The square is also known for its upper-crust jewelry and designer stores—Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior, Chanel, Cartier, and others (if you have to ask how much...).
Leave Place Vendôme by continuing straight, up Rue de la Paix—strolling by still more jewelry, high-priced watches, and crystal—and enter Place de l’Opéra: You’re in the middle of Right Bank glamour. Here you’ll find the Opéra Garnier (described on here). If you’re shopping till you’re dropping, the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores are located a few blocks up Rue Halévy.
This Left Bank shopping area lets you sample smart clothing boutiques and clever window displays—and be tempted by tasty treats—while enjoying one of Paris’ more attractive and boutique-filled neighborhoods.
Start at the Sèvres-Babylone Métro stop (take the Métro or bus #87). You’ll find the Bon Marché, Paris’ oldest department store. Continue along Rue de Sèvres, working your way to Place St. Sulpice and making detours left and right as the spirit moves you. You’ll pass some of Paris’ smartest boutiques and coolest cafés, such as Hermès (at #17), and Au Sauvignon Café (at #10). Make a short detour up Rue du Cherche-Midi and find Paris’ most celebrated bread—beautiful round loaves with designer crust—at the low-key Poilâne at #8. At the end of your walk, spill into Place St. Sulpice, with its big, twin-tower church. Café de la Mairie is a great spot to sip a café crème, admire the lovely square, and consider your next move. If you’d like more shopping options, you’re in the heart of boutique shopping. As for me, stick a fourchette in me—I’m done.
Paris is brilliant after dark. Save energy from your day’s sightseeing and experience the City of Light lit. Whether it’s a concert at Sainte-Chapelle, a boat ride on the Seine, a walk in Montmartre, a hike up the Arc de Triomphe, or a late-night café, you’ll see Paris at its best.
With a lively mix of American, French, and international musicians, Paris has been an internationally acclaimed jazz capital since World War II. You’ll pay €12-25 to enter a jazz club (may include one drink; if not, expect to pay €5-10 per drink; beer is cheapest). See L’Officiel des Spectacles under “Concerts” for listings, or, even better, the Paris Voice website. You can also check each club’s website (all have English versions), or drop by the clubs to check out the calendars posted on their front doors. Music starts after 21:00 in most clubs. Some offer dinner concerts from about 20:30 on. Here are several good bets:
Caveau de la Huchette: This fun, characteristic old jazz/dance club fills an ancient Latin Quarter cellar with live jazz and frenzied dancing every night (admission about €15, €10 for those under 25, drinks from €7, daily from 21:30, no reservations needed, buy tickets at the door, 5 Rue de la Huchette, Mo: St. Michel, tel. 01 43 26 65 05, www.caveaudelahuchette.fr).
Autour de Midi et Minuit: This Old World bistro sits at the foot of Montmartre, above a cave à jazz. Eat upstairs if you like, then make your way down to the basement to find bubbling jam sessions Tuesday through Thursday and concerts on Friday and Saturday nights (no cover, €5 minimum drink order Tue-Thu; €20-25 cover Fri-Sat includes one drink; jam sessions at 21:30, concerts usually at 22:00; no music Sun-Mon; 11 Rue Lepic, Mo: Blanche or Abbesses, tel. 01 55 79 16 48, www.autourdemidi.fr).
Other Venues: For a spot teeming with late-night activity and jazz, go to the two-block-long Rue des Lombards, at Boulevard Sébastopol, midway between the river and the Pompidou Center (Mo: Châtelet). Au Duc des Lombards is one of the most popular and respected jazz clubs in Paris, with concerts nightly in a great, plush, 110-seat theater-like setting (€30-55, €60-90 with dinner, buy online and arrive early for best seats, reasonable drink prices, shows usually at 19:30 and 21:30, 42 Rue des Lombards, tel. 01 42 33 22 88, www.ducdeslombards.fr). Le Sunside is just a block away. The club offers two little stages (ground floor and downstairs): “Le Sunset” stage tends toward contemporary world jazz; “le Sunside” stage features more traditional and acoustic jazz (concerts €20-30, a few are free; 60 Rue des Lombards, tel. 01 40 26 46 60, www.sunset-sunside.com).
For classical music on any night, consult L’Officiel des Spectacles magazine (check “Classique” under “Concerts” for listings), and look for posters at tourist-oriented churches. From March through November, these churches regularly host concerts: St. Sulpice, St. Germain-des-Prés, La Madeleine, St. Eustache, St. Julien-le-Pauvre, and Sainte-Chapelle.
Sainte-Chapelle: Enjoy the pleasure of hearing Mozart, Bach, or Vivaldi, surrounded by 800 years of stained glass (unheated—bring a sweater). The acoustical quality is surprisingly good. There are usually two concerts per evening, at about 19:00 and 20:30; specify which one you want when you buy or reserve your ticket. VIP tickets get you a seat in rows 3-10 (about €55), Prestige tickets cover the next 10 rows (€45), and Normal tickets are the last five rows (€35). Seats are unassigned within each section, so arrive at least 30 minutes early to get through the security line and snare a good view.
You can book at the box office, by phone, or online. Several companies sell tickets online. The small box office (with schedules and tickets) is to the left of the chapel entrance gate (8 Boulevard du Palais, Mo: Cité), or call 01 42 77 65 65 or 06 67 30 65 65 for schedules and reservations. You can leave your message in English—just speak clearly and spell your name. You can check schedules and buy your ticket at www.euromusicproductions.fr, or www.ticketac.com).
Other Venues: Look also for daytime concerts in parks, such as the Luxembourg Garden. Even the Galeries Lafayette department store offers concerts. Many of these concerts are free (entrée libre), such as the Sunday atelier concert sponsored by the American Church (generally Sept-June at 17:00 but not every week and not in Dec, 65 Quai d’Orsay, Mo: Invalides, RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 40 62 05 00, www.acparis.org). The Army Museum offers inexpensive afternoon and evening classical music concerts all year round (for programs—in French only—see www.musee-armee.fr). There are also concerts at the Louvre’s auditorium (www.louvre.fr/en/auditorium-louvre/music).
Paris is home to two well-respected opera venues. The Opéra Bastille is the massive modern opera house that dominates Place de la Bastille. Come here for state-of-the-art special effects and modern interpretations of classic ballets and operas. In the spirit of this everyman’s opera, unsold seats are available at a big discount to seniors and students 15 minutes before the show. Standing-room-only tickets for €15 are also sold for some performances (Mo: Bastille).
The Opéra Garnier, Paris’ first opera house, hosts opera and ballet performances. Come here for grand belle époque decor (Mo: Opéra; generally no performances mid-July-mid-Sept). To get tickets for either opera house, it’s easiest to reserve online at www.operadeparis.fr, or call 01 71 25 24 23 outside France or toll tel. 08 92 89 90 90 inside France (office closed Sun). You can also buy tickets in person at their ticket offices (open Mon-Sat: Opéra Bastille 14:30-18:30, Opéra Garnier 11:30-18:30; both also open an hour before show; closed Sun).
Various museums (including the Louvre, Orsay, Pompidou, and Marmottan) are open late on different evenings—called visites nocturnes—offering the opportunity for more relaxed, less crowded visits. An elaborate sound-and-light show (Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes) takes place in the gardens at Versailles on some Saturday evenings in summer (see the next chapter).
Several companies offer cruises after dark as well as dinner cruises on huge glass-domed boats (or open-air decks in summer) with departures along the Seine, including from the Eiffel Tower. Bateaux Parisiens is considered the best of the lot (www.bateauxparisiens.com).
Go for an evening walk to best appreciate the City of Light. Break for ice cream, pause at a café, and enjoy the sidewalk entertainers as you join the post-dinner Parisian parade. (Avoid poorly lit areas and stick to main thoroughfares.)
Trocadéro and Eiffel Tower: Worth ▲▲▲, this is one of Paris’ most spectacular views at night. Take the Métro to the Trocadéro stop and join the party on Place du Trocadéro for a magnificent view of the glowing Eiffel Tower. It’s a festival of hawkers, gawkers, drummers, and entertainers.
Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe: The ▲▲ Avenue des Champs-Elysées is best after dark. Start at the Arc de Triomphe (open late), then stroll down Paris’ glittering grand promenade.
Ile St. Louis and Notre-Dame: This ▲▲ stroll features floodlit views of Notre-Dame and a taste of the Latin Quarter. Find your way to the east end of Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, stopping for dinner—or at least a Berthillon ice cream (at #31) or Amorino Gelati (at #47). At the west end of Ile St. Louis, cross Pont St. Louis to Ile de la Cité, with a knockout view of Notre-Dame. Wander to the Left Bank on Quai de l’Archevêché, and drop down to the river for the best floodlit views.
If rumbling around Paris and sticking your head out of the rolled-back top of a funky old 2CV car à la Inspector Clouseau sounds like your kind of fun, consider this. The informal student-drivers are not professional guides (you’re paying for their driving services), though they speak some English. Appreciate the simplicity of the car. It’s France’s version of the VW “bug” and hasn’t been made since 1985. Ask your guide to honk the horn, to run the silly little wipers, and to open and close the air vent—c’est magnifique!
They’ll pick you up and drop you at your hotel or wherever you choose. 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie (“4 wheels under 1 umbrella”) offers several tours with candy-colored cars and drivers dressed in striped shirts and berets (for 2 people it’s about €40/person for 45 minutes and €75/person for 90 minutes; 10 percent tip appropriate if you enjoyed your ride, longer tours available, maximum 3 people/car, tel. 01 58 59 27 82, mobile 06 67 32 26 68, www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com, info@4roues-sous-1parapluie.com).
GoBe’s Paris by Night tour connects all the great illuminated sights of Paris with a 100-minute bus ride in 12 languages. You’ll stampede on with a United Nations of tourists, get a set of headphones, dial up your language, and listen to a recorded spiel. Uninspired as it is, the ride provides an entertaining overview of the city at its floodlit and scenic best. Bring your city map to stay oriented as you go. You’re always on the bus, but the driver slows for photos at viewpoints (€32, kids-€21, 1.75 hours, departs from 2 Rue des Pyramides April-Oct at 22:00, Nov-March at 20:00, reserve one day in advance, arrive 30 minutes early to wait in line for best seats, Mo: Pyramides, tel. 01 44 55 61 00, www.gobe.com). GoBe also offers a Paris by Night tour in a small-group minibus, which follows a similar route. For all GoBe tours, buy tickets through your hotel (no booking fee, brochures in lobby) or directly at the GoBe office at 2 Rue des Pyramides.
Seeing the City of Light floodlit is one of Europe’s great travel experiences and a great finale to any day in Paris. I recommend a circular, one-hour route—from Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower along the Left Bank, then back along the Right Bank. Start at Notre-Dame (there’s a taxi stand there—just in front, on left), at any convenient point along the route, or from your hotel. Review with the driver exactly where you hope to stop (“arrêt”) before you start.
Traffic can be sparse, and lights shine between 22:00 and 24:00 every night. Sunday is the best night, as there’s less traffic. Complete your tour by midnight when lights are shut off at major monuments. Your other timing consideration: The Eiffel Tower twinkles for only the first five minutes of each hour after dark. If you start at Notre-Dame at half past the hour, you should be right on time for the sparkles.
This suggested loop costs around €50 (more on Sun) via taxi and around €40 by Uber. If your cabbie was easy to work with, add a 10 percent tip; if not, tip just 5 percent. You don’t need to tip with Uber (though you can). Drivers can take up to four people in a cab or regular sedan, though this is tight for decent sightseeing (with three, everyone gets a window).
I’ve focused my recommendations on three safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods: the village-like Rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower); the artsy and trendy Marais (near Place de la Bastille); and the historic island of Ile St. Louis (next door to Notre-Dame).
If you’re looking on your own for accommodations (beyond this book’s listings), consider the classy Luxembourg Garden neighborhood (on the Left Bank) and the less polished, less central, but less pricey Montmartre neighborhood. For lower rates or greater selection, look farther from the river (prices drop proportionately with distance from the Seine), but be prepared to spend more time on the Métro or the bus getting to sights. For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods. I also list a few bed-and-breakfast agencies and give suggestions for sleeping near Paris’ airports.
I rank accommodations from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. The French use stars to rate hotels based on their amenities (indicated by asterisks in this book). To get the best deal, contact hotels directly (via their website, phone, or email). When you go direct, the owner avoids a roughly 20 percent commission and may be able to offer you a discount. Book any accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during peak season or if your trip coincides with a major holiday or festival (see the appendix). For more information and tips on hotel rates and deals, making reservations, finding a short-term rental, and chain hotels, see the “Sleeping” section in the Practicalities chapter.
(7th arr., Mo: Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, Invalides)
Rue Cler is so French that when I step out of my hotel in the morning, I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life. How such coziness lodged itself between the high-powered government district, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides, I’ll never know. This is a neighborhood of wide, tree-lined boulevards, stately apartment buildings, and lots of Americans. Hotels here are a fair value, considering the elegance of the neighborhood. And for sightseeing, you’re within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, Army Museum, Seine River, Champs-Elysées, and Orsay and Rodin museums.
Become a local at a Rue Cler café for breakfast, or join the afternoon crowd for une bière pression (a draft beer). On Rue Cler you can eat and browse your way through a street full of cafés, pastry shops, delis, cheese shops, and colorful outdoor produce stalls. Afternoon boules (outdoor bowling) on the Esplanade des Invalides or in the Champ de Mars park is a relaxing spectator sport. The manicured gardens behind the golden dome of the Army Museum are free, peaceful, and filled with flowers (at southwest corner of grounds, closes at about 19:00), and the riverside promenade along the Seine is a fine place to walk, run, bike, or just sit and watch the river of people stroll by.
Services: ComAvenue has computers (€5/hour), Wi-Fi, and consultants who can help if you have problems with your laptop (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, 24 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 55 00 07). You can buy your Paris Museum Pass at Tabac La Cave à Cigares on Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, across from where Rue Cler ends, or at Paris Webservices on 12 Rue de l’Exposition.
Laundry: Here are three handy locations: on Rue Augereau, on Rue Amélie (both between Rue St. Dominique and Rue de Grenelle), and at the southeast corner of Rue Valadon and Rue de Grenelle.
Travel Services: Contact the helpful staff at Paris Webservices to buy the Paris Museum Pass, to book “coupe-file” tickets that allow you to skip the line at key sights, or for assistance with hotels, transportation, local guides, or excursions (office open Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun; available by phone daily 6:00-22:00, 12 Rue de l’Exposition, Mo: Ecole Militaire, RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com).
Métro Connections: Key Métro stops are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides. The useful RER/Train-C line runs from the Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations, serving Versailles to the southwest; the Marmottan Museum to the northwest; and the Orsay Museum, Latin Quarter (St. Michel stop), and Austerlitz train station to the east.
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Rue Cler Hotels” map.
Line #69 runs east along Rue St. Dominique and serves Les Invalides, Orsay, Louvre, Marais, and Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Line #63 runs along the river (Quai d’Orsay), serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain to the east (ending at Gare de Lyon), and Trocadéro and areas near the Marmottan Museum to the west.
Line #92 runs along Avenue Bosquet, north to the Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe (faster than the Métro) and south to the Montparnasse Tower and Gare Montparnasse.
Line #87 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champ de Mars park up Avenue de la Bourdonnais and serves the Sèvres-Babylone/St. Germain shopping area, St. Sulpice Church, Luxembourg Garden, the Bastille, and Gare de Lyon (more convenient than Métro for these destinations).
Line #28 runs on Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg and serves Gare St. Lazare.
Line #42 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champ de Mars park (same stop as #87), crosses the Champs-Elysées at the Rond-Point, then heads to Place de la Concorde, Place de la Madeleine, Opéra Garnier, and finally to Gare du Nord—a long ride to the train station but less tiring than the Métro if you’re carrying suitcases.
Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands just off Place L’Ecole Militaire and near the intersection of Avenue Bosquet and Rue de Grenelle.
Many of my readers stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood. If you want to disappear into Paris, choose a hotel elsewhere. The following hotels are within Camembert-smelling distance of Rue Cler.
$$$$ Hôtel du Cadran,*** a well-placed boule toss from Rue Cler, is comfortable and très stylish with a wine bar in its lobby and designer rooms. The hotel has rooms in two locations a block apart. The main hotel has 40 tight rooms and their 12-room annex (called Hôtel Cadran Coleur) has larger rooms, though you’ll sleep well in either (RS% includes big breakfast—use code “RICK”; 10 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 40 62 67 00, www.cadranhotel.com, resa@cadranhotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel Bosquet*** is an exceptionally good hotel in an ideal location, with comfortable public spaces and well-configured rooms that are large by local standards and feature effective darkness blinds. The staff is politely formal (RS%—use code “RSDEAL”; good but pricey breakfast buffet with eggs and sausage, 19 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 47 05 25 45, www.hotel-paris-bosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).
$$$ Cler Hotel*** is a smart boutique hotel with appealing decor, a small outdoor patio, and a killer location right on Rue Cler. Rooms are well-designed, and the young owners are eager to please (RS%, 24 bis Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 00 18 06, www.clerhotel.com, contact@clerhotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel de la Motte Picquet,*** at the corner of Rue Cler and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, is an intimate and modest little place with 16 compact yet comfortable-enough rooms. The terrific staff makes staying here a pleasure (RS%—use code “STEVE-SMITH”; family rooms, good breakfast served in a minuscule breakfast room, easy bike rental, 30 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 09 57, www.hotelmottepicquetparis.com, book@hotelmottepicquetparis.com).
$$$ Grand Hôtel Lévêque*** is overpriced and undermaintained but has a terrific location on Rue Cler (29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 49 15, www.hotel-leveque.com, info@hotelleveque.com)
$$ Hôtel du Champ de Mars*** is a top choice, brilliantly located barely 10 steps off Rue Cler. This plush little hotel has a small-town feel from top to bottom. The adorable rooms are snug but lovingly kept by hands-on owners Françoise and Stéphane, and single rooms can work as tiny doubles. It’s popular, so book well ahead (continental breakfast only, 30 yards off Rue Cler at 7 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 51 52 30, www.hotelduchampdemars.com, hotelduchampdemars@gmail.com).
$$ Hôtel Beaugency*** has 30 smallish rooms, most with double beds, and a lobby that you can stretch out in. It’s a fair value on a quieter street a short block off Rue Cler (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers, 21 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 47 05 01 63, www.hotel-beaugency.com, infos@hotel-beaugency.com).
These listings are a five-minute walk from Rue Cler, near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma.
$$$$ Inwood Hotels has three sister hotels in this neighborhood; all are ****, well-located, and offer top comfort and professional service—for a price (be clear about cancellation policies before booking). Public spaces and rooms are polished. The first two offer Rick Steves readers free breakfast; use www.inwood-hotels.com for booking at all three. Hôtel la Bourdonnais, near the Champ de Mars park, is the largest of the three and closest to the Eiffel Tower (113 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 45 42, labourdonnais@inwood-hotels.com). Hôtel Walt has a sharp interior courtyard terrace (37 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 45 51 55 83, lewalt@inwood-hotels.com). Hôtel Tourville is the most intimate (6 Avenue de Tourville, tel. 01 47 05 62 62, letourville@inwood-hotels.com).
$$$ Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel,*** a few blocks farther from the action, is handsome and hospitable. It features a welcoming lobby, a street-front terrace, comfortable rooms (some with terrific Eiffel Tower views), and connecting rooms that work well for families (RS%, big, hot breakfast—free for Rick Steves readers, 23 Avenue Duquesne, tel. 01 44 42 09 09, www.hde.fr, contact@hde.fr).
$$$ Hôtel Eiffel Turenne*** is a good choice with sharp, well-maintained rooms, a pleasing lounge, and a service-oriented staff (20 Avenue de Tourville, tel. 01 47 05 99 92, www.hoteleiffelturenne.com, reservation@hoteleiffelturenne.com, friendly Emma).
$$ Hôtel de France Invalides** is a fair midrange option run by a brother-sister team (Alain and Marie-Hélène). It has contemporary decor and 60 rooms, some with knockout views of Invalides’ golden dome (but with some traffic noise and no air-con). Rooms on the courtyard are quieter, smaller, and cheaper (RS%, connecting rooms possible, first breakfast free for Rick Steves readers—maximum of two per party, 102 Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, tel. 01 47 05 40 49, www.hoteldefrance.com, contact@hoteldefrance.com).
$$ Hôtel Eber Mars,*** a few steps from Champ de Mars park, has warm public spaces, an I-try-harder owner (Monsieur Eber), a very narrow elevator, and comfortable, mostly bigger-than-average rooms (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book direct, 117 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 42 30, www.hotelebermars.com, reservation@hotelebermars.com).
$ Hôtel Prince,** across from the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, is a basic place with a spartan lobby and drab halls, but offers rooms at decent prices in a good location (66 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 47 05 40 90, www.hotel-paris-prince.com, paris@hotelprinceparis.com).
$$$ Hôtel de Londres Eiffel*** is my closest listing to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars park. Here you get immaculate, warmly decorated but tight rooms (several are connecting for families), comfy public spaces, and a terrific staff that can’t do enough to help. It’s less convenient to the Métro (10-minute walk), but very handy to buses #69, #80, #87, and #92, and to RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma (some Eiffel Tower view rooms, 1 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 51 63 02, www.hotel-paris-londres-eiffel.com, info@londres-eiffel.com, helpful Cédric and Arnaud).
$ Hôtel de la Tour Eiffel** is a solid value on a quiet street near several of my favorite restaurants. The rooms are well-designed and comfortable with air-conditioning (but no breakfast). The six sets of connecting rooms are ideal for families (RS%, 17 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 14 75, www.hotel-toureiffel.com, hte7@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel Kensington** is a fair budget value close to the Eiffel Tower. It’s an unpretentious place offering basic comfort (some partial Eiffel Tower views, no air-con but ceiling fans, 79 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 74 00, www.hotel-eiffel-kensington.com, hotelkensignton@gmail.com).
These listings are within three blocks of the intersection of Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg.
$$$$ Hôtel de Latour-Maubourg*** owns a peaceful manor-home setting with 17 plush, mostly large and wonderfully traditional rooms, a small patio, and free spa for clients (across from the Métro station at 150 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 05 16 16, www.latourmaubourg.com, info@latourmaubourg.com).
$$$ Hôtel Les Jardins d’Eiffel*** is a big place on a quiet street, with impersonal service, a peaceful patio, and a lobby you can stretch out in. The 81 well-configured rooms—some with partial Eiffel Tower views, some with balconies—offer a bit more space and quiet than other hotels (RS%, parking garage, 8 Rue Amélie, tel. 01 47 05 46 21, www.hoteljardinseiffel.com, reservations@hoteljardinseiffel.com).
$$$ Hôtel de l’Empereur*** is stylish and delivers smashing views of Invalides from many of its fine rooms. All rooms have queen- or king-size beds, are well-designed with hints of the emperor, and are large by Paris standards (some view rooms, family rooms, strict 7-day cancellation policy, 2 Rue Chevert, tel. 01 45 55 88 02, www.hotelempereurparis.com, contact@hotelempereur.com).
$$$ Hôtel Muguet*** is quiet, well-located, well-run, and reasonable, with tastefully appointed rooms and a helpful staff (some view rooms, strict 7-day cancellation policy, 11 Rue Chevert, tel. 01 47 05 05 93, www.hotelparismuguet.com, contact@hotelparismuguet.com).
Those interested in a more central, diverse, and lively urban locale should make the Marais their Parisian home. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its finest, where classy stone mansions sit alongside trendy bars, antique shops, and fashion-conscious boutiques. The streets are an intriguing parade of artists, students, tourists, immigrants, and baguette-munching babies in strollers. The Marais is also known as a hub of the Parisian gay and lesbian scene.
In the Marais you have these major sights close at hand: Victor Hugo’s House, Jewish Art and History Museum, Pompidou Center, and Picasso Museum. You’re also a manageable walk from Paris’ two islands (Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, La Coulée Verte Promenade-Park, Place des Vosges (Paris’ oldest square), the Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers), the Latin Quarter, and nightlife-packed Rue de Lappe are also walkable. Strolling home (day or night) from Notre-Dame along Ile St. Louis is marvelous.
Most of my recommended hotels are located a few blocks north of the Marais’ main east-west drag, Rue St. Antoine/Rue de Rivoli. For those who prefer a quieter home with fewer tourists, I list several hotels in the northern limits of the Marais, near Rue de Bretagne, the appealing commercial spine of this area.
Services: A busy SNCF Boutique is just off Rue St. Antoine at 2 Rue de Turenne (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-20:30, closed Sun).
Laundry: Launderettes are scattered throughout the Marais; ask your hotelier for the nearest. Here are two that you can count on: on Impasse Guéménée (north of Rue St. Antoine), and on Rue du Petit Musc (south of Rue St. Antoine).
Métro Connections: Key Métro stops in the Marais are, from east to west: Bastille, St-Paul, and Hôtel de Ville (Sully-Morland, Pont Marie, and Rambuteau stops are also handy). Métro connections are excellent, with direct service to the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, and La Défense (all on line 1); the Rue Cler area, Place de la Madeleine (see “Boutique Strolls,” here), and Opéra Garnier/Galeries Lafayette (line 8 from Bastille stop); and four major train stations: Gare de Lyon, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Gare d’Austerlitz (all accessible from Bastille stop).
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map.
Line #69 on Rue St. Antoine takes you eastbound to Père Lachaise Cemetery and westbound to the Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums, plus the Army Museum and Rue Cler, ending at the Eiffel Tower.
Line #87 runs down Boulevard Henri IV, crossing Ile St. Louis and serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain, before heading to St. Sulpice Church/Luxembourg Garden, the Eiffel Tower, and the Rue Cler neighborhood to the west. The same line, running in the opposite direction, brings you to Gare de Lyon.
Line #96 runs on Rues Turenne and Rivoli, serves Ile de la Cité and St. Sulpice Church (near Luxembourg Garden), and ends at Gare Montparnasse.
Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands on the north side of Rue St. Antoine (where Rue Castex crosses it), on Place de la Bastille (where Boulevard Richard Lenoir meets the square), on the south side of Rue St. Antoine (in front of St. Paul Church), and behind the Hôtel de Ville on Rue du Lobau (where it meets Rue de Rivoli).
(3rd and 4th arr., Mo: Bastille, St-Paul, or Hôtel de Ville)
$$$$ Hôtel le Pavillon de la Reine,***** 15 steps off the beautiful Place des Vosges, merits its stars with top service and comfort and exquisite attention to detail, from its melt-in-your-couch lobby to its luxurious rooms (free access to spa and fitness room, parking, 28 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 40 29 19 19, www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com, contact@pavillon-de-la-reine.com).
$$$ Hôtel Bastille Spéria*** is situated a short block off Place de la Bastille, offering business-type service and OK comfort in a happening location. The 42 rooms have uninspiring decor but are well configured and relatively spacious (1 Rue de la Bastille, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 04 01, www.hotelsperia.com, info@hotelsperia.com).
$$$ Hôtel St. Louis Marais*** is an intimate and sharp little hotel that sits on a quiet street a few blocks from the river. The handsome rooms have character...and spacious bathrooms (skip their 3 annex rooms, 1 Rue Charles V, Mo: Sully-Morland, tel. 01 48 87 87 04, www.saintlouismarais.com, marais@saintlouis-hotels.com).
$$ Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc*** is a lovely hotel that’s ideally located for connoisseurs of the Marais who don’t need air-conditioning. Here, artful decor meets stone walls and oak floors, rooms are thoughtfully appointed, and corner rooms are wonderfully bright in the City of Light. Rooms on the street can have some noise until the bars close (family rooms, some view rooms, 3 Rue de Jarente, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 48 87 62 11, www.hoteljeannedarc.com, information@hoteljeannedarc.com).
$$$ Hôtel Castex*** is a well-located place—on a quiet street near Place de la Bastille—with narrow and tile-floored rooms. Their system of connecting rooms allows families total privacy between two rooms, each with its own bathroom (free buffet breakfast for Rick Steves readers, just off Place de la Bastille and Rue St. Antoine at 5 Rue Castex, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 31 52, www.castexhotel.com, info@castexhotel.com).
$$ Hôtel de Neuve*** is a small, central, and dignified place with classical music in the lobby and high tea in the afternoon. Rooms are plush, quiet, and a good value in this pricey area (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers—use code “RICKSTEVES” when booking, behind the Monoprix at 14 Rue de Neuve, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 44 59 28 50, www.hoteldeneuveparis.com, bonjour@hoteldeneuveparis.com).
$$ Hôtel Pratic,** just off the quiet and charming Place du Marché Ste. Catherine, works for budget travelers who don’t mind squeezing sideways to make it past the bed into the bathroom. The half-timbered interior gives the lobby a trace of character, but also makes for dark hallways. Rooms are clean with modern amenities (some view rooms, no elevator, 6 floors, no air-con, 9 Rue d’Ormesson, tel. 01 48 87 80 47, www.pratichotelparis.com, pratic.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
$ Sully Hôtel,* right on Rue St. Antoine, is a basic, cheap place run by affable Monsieur Zeroual. The rooms are frumpy, dimly lit, and can smell of smoke, the entry is dark and narrow (need I say more?), but the price fits. Two can spring for a triple for more room (family rooms, no elevator, no air-con, 48 Rue St. Antoine, Mo: St-Paul, tel. 01 42 78 49 32, www.sullyhotelparis.com, sullyhotel@orange.fr).
¢ MIJE Youth Hostels: The Maison Internationale de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (MIJE) runs three classy, old residences, ideal for budget travelers who are at least 18 years old or traveling with someone who is. Each is well maintained, with simple, clean, single-sex (unless your group takes a whole room) one- to four-bed rooms. The hostels are MIJE Fourcy (biggest and loudest, dirt-cheap dinners available with a membership card, 6 Rue de Fourcy, just south of Rue de Rivoli), MIJE Fauconnier (no elevator, 11 Rue du Fauconnier), and MIJE Maubisson (smallest and quietest, no outdoor terrace, 12 Rue des Barres). None have double beds or air-conditioning. All have private showers in every room—but bring your own towel or buy one there (includes breakfast, required membership-€3 extra/person, Wi-Fi in common areas only, rooms locked 12:00-15:00). They share the same contact information (tel. 01 42 74 23 45, www.mije.com, info@mije.com) and Métro stop (St-Paul).
(4th arr., Mo: St-Paul, Hôtel de Ville, or Rambuteau)
These hotels are farther west, closer to the Pompidou Center than to Place de la Bastille.
$$$ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais*** transports you to the 18th century, with a small lobby that’s cluttered with bits from an elegant old Marais house. If you want traditional French decor, stay here. Located on a busy street, it’s well cared for and filled with character (12 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 34 12, www.carondebeaumarchais.com, hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Bretonnerie*** makes a fine Marais home. Located three blocks from the Hôtel de Ville, it has a warm, welcoming lobby and helpful staff. Its 30 good-value rooms are on the larger side with an antique, open-beam warmth (family rooms, free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book direct, no air-con, between Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Archives at 22 Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, tel. 01 48 87 77 63, www.hotelparismaraisbretonnerie.com, hotel@bretonnerie.com).
$$ Hôtel Beaubourg*** is a top value on a small street in the shadow of the Pompidou Center. The place is surprisingly quiet, and the 28 plush and traditional rooms are well appointed (bigger doubles are worth the extra cost, 11 Rue Simon Le Franc, Mo: Rambuteau, tel. 01 42 74 34 24, www.hotelbeaubourg.com, reservation@hotelbeaubourg.com).
$$ Hôtel de Nice,*** on the Marais’ busy main drag, features a turquoise-and-fuchsia “Marie-Antoinette-does-tie-dye” decor. This character-filled place is littered with paintings and layered with carpets, and its 23 Old World rooms have thoughtful touches. Rooms on the street come with some noise though the air-conditioning helps; bathrooms are tight (reception on second floor, 42 bis Rue de Rivoli, tel. 01 42 78 55 29, www.hoteldenice.com, contact@hoteldenice.com).
$$ Hôtel du Loiret*** is a budget place renting decent rooms with tight bathrooms (no air-con, expect some noise, 8 Rue des Mauvais Garçons, tel. 01 48 87 77 00, www.hotel-du-loiret.fr, hotelduloiret@hotmail.com).
$$ D’Win Hôtel** is a solid two-star value in the thick of the Marais, with a helpful staff and 40 relatively spacious and quiet rooms (family rooms, no elevator, 20 Rue du Temple, tel. 01 44 54 05 05, www.dwinhotel.com, contact@dwinhotel.com).
(3rd arr., Mo: Filles du Calvaire, République, or Temple)
Called the Haut (upper) Marais, this appealing neighborhood attracts those wanting a quieter, more local vibe with easy access to the heart of the Marais. Appealing Rue de Bretagne is the backbone of this area, with broad sidewalks and plenty of cafés and shops, plus the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges market area. The beautiful park where Rue de Bretagne meets Rue des Archives is a draw for kids and adults. Allow 15 minutes to walk from these hotels to the Marais’ main drag, Rue St. Antoine. The hotels are all within a short walk of Rue de Bretagne and a bit cheaper than in the heart of the Marais.
$$$ Hôtel Jacques de Molay*** delivers très modern comfort, a fitness room, bar, and nice public spaces (94 Rue des Archives, Mo: République, tel. 01 42 72 68 22, www.hotelmolay.fr, contact@hotelmolay.fr).
$$ Hôtel du Vieux Saule,*** well located across from the Marché des Enfants Rouges, offers 26 simple rooms at fair rates (small, free sauna for guests, 6 Rue de Picardie, Mo: République, Filles du Calvaire, or Temple, tel. 01 42 72 01 14, www.hotelvieuxsaule.com, reserv@hotelvieuxsaule.com).
$$ Hôtel Saintonge*** is a handsome and well-maintained place with good prices. Its very comfortable rooms feature wooden beams and stone floors (16 Rue de Saintonge, Mo: Filles du Calvaire, tel. 01 42 77 91 13, www.saintlouissaintonge.com, saintonge@saintlouis-hotels.com).
¢ Hôtel Picard** owns a great location and a cheery lobby and breakfast room, though its rooms are worn and tired. Still, the price is right for budget travelers (no air-con, elevator, 26 Rue de Picardie, Mo: République or Filles du Calvaire, tel. 01 48 87 53 82, hotel.picard@orange.fr, gentle Pascal runs the place).
(4th arr., Mo: Pont Marie)
The peaceful, residential character of this river-wrapped island, with its brilliant location and homemade ice cream, has drawn Americans for decades. There are no budget deals here—all of the hotels are three-star or more—though prices are respectable considering the level of comfort and wonderful location. The island’s village ambience and proximity to the Marais, Notre-Dame, and the Latin Quarter make this area well-worth considering. The following hotels are on the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, where I list several restaurants (see here). For hotel locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map, earlier. There are no Métro stops on Ile St. Louis; expect a five-minute walk to the closest station—Pont Marie—or a bit farther to Cité. Bus #69 works well for Ile St-Louis residents.
$$$$ Hôtel du Jeu de Paume**** occupies a 17th-century tennis center. Its magnificent lobby and cozy public spaces make it a fine splurge. Greet Lemon (luh-moe), le chien, then take a spin in the glass elevator for a half-timbered treehouse experience. The 30 rooms are carefully designed and tasteful, though not particularly spacious (you’re paying for the location and public areas). Most rooms face a small garden courtyard; all are pin-drop peaceful (apartments for 4-6 people, 54 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 14 18, www.jeudepaumehotel.com, info@jeudepaumehotel.com).
The next two places share the same hands-on owner and comfort. $$$ Hôtel de Lutèce*** comes with a welcoming wood-paneled lobby and a real fireplace (though fires are no longer allowed in Paris). Rooms are traditional and warm, and those on lower floors have high ceilings. Most have wood-beam ceilings and good space for storage. Twin rooms are larger and the same price as doubles; most beds are doubles, and there are a few good triples. Rooms with bathtubs are on the street side, while those with showers are on the quieter courtyard (65 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 23 52, www.hoteldelutece.com, info@hoteldelutece.com).
$$$ Hôtel des Deux-Iles*** has a few true singles, a larger breakfast room, is a bit cheaper than the Lutèce, but is otherwise hard to distinguish—you can’t go wrong in either place (59 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 13 35, www.hoteldesdeuxiles.com, isle@hoteldesdeuxiles.com).
$$$ Hôtel Saint-Louis*** blends character with modern comforts. The sharp rooms come with cool stone floors and exposed beams. Rates are reasonable...for the location (some rooms with balcony, iPads available for guest use, 75 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 34 04 80, www.saintlouisenlisle.com, isle@saintlouis-hotels.com).
At Charles de Gaulle Airport: These places are located a few minutes from the terminals, outside the T-3 RER/Train-B stop, and have restaurants. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$ Novotel*** is a step up from cookie-cutter airport hotels (tel. 01 49 19 27 27, www.novotel.com, h1014@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Ibis CDG Airport** is huge and offers standard airport accommodations (tel. 01 49 19 19 19, www.ibishotel.com, h1404@accor.com).
Near Orly Airport: Two chain hotels very close to the Sud terminal are your best options near Orly. Both have free shuttles (navettes) to the terminal. $$$ Hôtel Mercure Paris Orly*** provides high comfort for a high price (tel. 08 25 80 69 69, www.accorhotel.com, h1246@accor.com). $$ Hôtel Ibis Orly Aéroport** is reasonable and basic (tel. 01 56 70 50 60, www.ibishotel.com, h1413@accor.com).
Consider this option if you’re traveling as a family, in a group, or staying at least a few nights. Intrepid travelers around the world are accustomed to using Airbnb and VRBO when it comes to renting a vacation apartment; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods. In Paris, you have many additional options among rental agencies, and I’ve found the following to be the most reliable. Their websites are good and essential to understanding your choices: Paris Perfect, www.parisperfect.com; Adrian Leeds Group, www.adrianleeds.com; France Homestyle, www.francehomestyle.com; Home Rental Service, www.homerental.fr; Haven in Paris, www.haveninparis.com; Paris Home, www.parishome2000.com; Cobblestone Paris Rentals, www.cobblestoneparis.com; Paris for Rent, www.parisforrent.com); and Cross-Pollinate, www.cross-pollinate.com.
Several agencies can help you go local by staying in a private home in Paris. While prices and quality can range greatly, most rooms have a private bath and run from €85 to €150. Most owners won’t take bookings for fewer than two nights. To limit stair-climbing, ask whether the building has an elevator. These agencies have a good selection: Alcôve & Agapes, www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com; and Meeting the French, http://en.meetingthefrench.com.
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. There is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of (only French onion soup is truly Parisian), but it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My restaurant recommendations are mostly centered on the same great neighborhoods as my hotel listings; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always appetizing www.parisbymouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.
To save piles of euros, go to a bakery for takeout, or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (plate of the day, about €16-24) or a chef-like salad (about €12-16) day or night. To save even more, consider picnics (tasty takeout dishes available at charcuteries). Try eating your big meal at lunch, when many fine restaurants offer their dinnertime fixed-price menus at a reduced price.
Linger longer over dinner—restaurants expect you to enjoy a full meal. Most restaurants I’ve listed have set-price menus between €26 and €40. In most cases, the few extra euros you pay are well spent and open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected).
I rank restaurants from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in Paris, including restaurant pricing; dining in French restaurants, cafés, and brasseries; getting takeout and assembling a picnic; and a rundown of French cuisine—see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy: Brasserie on speed—crank out good enough food at fair prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind average quality and want to eat an inexpensive one-course meal among a commotion of people. The chalkboard lists your choices: good, hearty salads or more filling plats du jour. Arrive before 19:00 to avoid waiting (serves continuously, daily 11:00-23:00, no reservations, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 51 27).
$$ Tribeca Restaurant, next door to Café du Marché, fills a broad terrace along Rue Cler and offers a wide selection at good prices. Choose from kid-pleasing burgers and Italian dishes or try the roasted Camembert à la crème (pizzas, pastas, and salads; daily, tel. 01 45 55 12 01).
$ L’Eclair, a few doors down, is a bar-meets-bistro place with tasty cuisine, a trendy vibe, and terrific seating on Rue Cler (daily until late, 32 Rue Cler, tel. 01 44 18 09 04).
$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny and cramped tables—indoors and out, and simple, tasty, inexpensive dishes such as €10 omelets and €9 soups. Eating outside here with a view of the Rue Cler action can be marvelous (delicious pots de crème, daily, opens early for dinner, arrive early or call in advance, 29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 50 17 50).
$$ Café le Roussillon offers a younger, pub-meets-café ambience with good-value food that works well for families. You’ll find hearty hamburgers, salads, daily specials, and easygoing waiters (daily, serves nonstop from lunch until late, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 47 53). While less charming than other spots, it’s more likely to have a table available.
$ Crêperie Ulysée en Gaule offers cheap seats on Rue Cler with crêpes to go. Readers of this book who buy a drink can enjoy a crêpe at a table for takeaway prices. The family adores its Greek dishes, but their crêpes are your least expensive hot meal on this street (28 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 61 82).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. The setting is warm and welcoming. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascale, his chef of more than 20 years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage, lobster ravioli, and confit de canard. The Château Chênaie house wine is excellent (closed Sat-Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).
$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a vintage French dining experience in an intimate setting. Chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (serves nonstop, closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).
$$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. Located on a corner, it overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (good salades, French onion soup, and foie gras, nonstop service daily until at least 24:00, tel. 01 45 55 00 02).
(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)
For an over-the-top bakery experience, find Stéphane Secco. This bakery merits a detour for a snack, a light lunch or, best of all, a delicious pastry (closed Sun-Mon, 20 Rue Jean Nicot).
$$$$ L’Ami Jean offers authentic Basque specialties in a snug-but-convivial atmosphere with red peppers and Basque stuff dangling from the ceiling. While pricey, portions are hearty and delicious. Parisians detour long distances to savor the gregarious chef’s special cuisine and fun atmosphere. For dinner arrive before 19:30 or reserve ahead (€80 six-course dinner menu, more accessible lunch menu for €35, closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue Malar, tel. 01 47 05 86 89, www.lamijean.fr).
$$ Chez France is a simple place lined with red-velvet booths where the focus is on food, not charming ambience—the dining room gets very warm when filled. You must order from the two- or three-course menu. Sit back and trust Régis and Arnaud to manage your meal (good choices of classic French cuisine, fine wine options, closed Sun, 9 Rue Amelie, tel. 01 45 51 50 08).
$$ O’Brien’s Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish pub/sports bar, where locals toss darts and order fine red wine with gourmet hamburgers (daily, 77 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 51 75 87). Along with their pubby barroom they have appealing streetside seating.
$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original, time-warp decor, red-checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler tourist crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (good à la carte choices or three-course menu that changes with the season, well-priced wines, closed Mon, 20 Rue Surcouf, tel. 01 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).
$$ La Poule au Pot is the neighborhood’s Old World café, worth a stop to sip a coffee or have a simple meal amid decor that can’t have changed in, like, forever (daily, 121 Rue de l’Université, tel. 01 47 05 16 69)
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)
$$$$ 58 Tour Eiffel, on the tower’s first level, provides a feast for both your belly and your eyes, with incredible city views. Dinner here is pricey and requires a reservation (two seatings: 18:30 with €86-125 menus, and 21:00 with €95-175 menus—priciest menus buy you more courses and better views; reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view, no jeans or tennis shoes at dinner). During the day they serve a €40 picque-nique-chic lunch, which is packaged in a little basket (€15 for kids, daily 11:30-16:30, reservations are a good idea, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro, RER/Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 72 76 18 46, toll tel. 08 25 56 66 62, www.restaurants-toureiffel.com). With a reservation, you ride up for free in the restaurant elevator.
$$$$ Les Fables de la Fontaine is a fine place to relax over a gourmet dinner with appealing seating inside or out on a picturesque square. It has a Michelin star yet maintains fair prices and friendly staff. While the chef’s specialty is fish, he also serves a few meat dishes (€75 tasting menu, less for à la carte, book ahead on weekends, daily, 131 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 44 18 37 55, www.lesfablesdelafontaine.net).
$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, and pass on the upstairs room (superb foie gras and desserts, daily, 129 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).
$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Anna serves while hubbie José cooks a tasty range of traditional choices. The homey charm of the tight little dining room makes this place a delight (€36 three-course dinner menu available for €25 at lunch, dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 80 39, www.leptittroquet.fr).
$$$ Pottoka attracts locals willing to book ahead and crowd into this shoebox for a chance to sample tasty Basque cuisine. Service is friendly, wines are reasonable, and the focus is on food rather than decor (daily, reservations smart, 4 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 45 51 88 38, www.pottoka.fr).
$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place featuring creative cuisine that draws from many countries—and there’s always a good vegetarian option. With its simple setting and reasonable prices, it feels more designed for neighbors than tourists. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to a convivial counter (closed Sun, 11 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 50 10 90, www.cafedemars.com).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the area. This humble time-warp place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine here because “it’s like eating at home.” Gentle Guillaume is a fine host (closed Sat-Sun, 212 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 53 92 90).
Affordable Italian: You’ll find several good places in the area. $$ Ristorante Gusto is fun, tight, and characteristic (199 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 45 55 00 43).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma)
Ever since leaving the venerable Hôtel Crillon, famed chef Christian Constant has made a career of taking the “snoot” out of French cuisine—and making it accessible to people like us. Today you’ll find three of his restaurants strung along one block of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is cheap, but they’re all a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.
$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres, where Christian won his first Michelin star, makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a chic eating scene—hushed and elegant. Service is formal yet helpful; the cuisine is what made this restaurateur’s reputation (order à la carte or consider their €130 seven-course tasting menu, cheaper lunch menu, daily, reservations essential, 135 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 55 15 05, www.maisonconstant.com).
$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of trendy Parisians and tourists with its fun energy and creative dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots (tasty soups, daily, nonstop service from noon until late, go early as they don’t take reservations, 135 Rue St. Dominique).
$$ Café Constant is a cool, two-level place that feels more like a small bistro-wine bar than a café. Delicious dishes are served in a snug setting. Arrive as early as you want to get a table downstairs—the upstairs seating lacks character (daily, opens at 7:00 for breakfast, meals served nonstop 12:00-23:00, no reservations, corner of Rue Augereau and Rue St. Dominique, next to recommended Hôtel de Londres Eiffel, tel. 01 47 53 73 34).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying fine food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of places—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a memorable experience.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.
$$$ La Place Royale offers an exceptional location on the square with comfortable seating inside or out, and is good for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Come here for the setting and snag an outdoor table under the arches. The hearty cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and the lengthy wine list is reasonable. The €42 dinner menu comes with three courses, a half-bottle of wine per person, and coffee; or just order a salad—or split one before a main course—and call it good (lunch specials, daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, 2 bis Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 78 58 16).
$$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a Parisian energy. The food’s just OK, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 72 64 04).
(Mo: Chemin Vert)
$$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy and youthful crowd intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the happy commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens at 19:00, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, tel. 01 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur, browse the list above the bar).
$$$ Le Petit Marché, popular with tourists, delivers a cozy bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a tasty cuisine that blends French classics with a slight Asian influence (daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, tel. 01 42 72 06 67).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: Bastille)
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution for over a century, specializes in seafood and traditional cuisine with Alsatian flair. You’ll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-and-white-attired waiters. Come here for the one-of-a-kind ambience in the elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms, reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Reserve ahead to dine under the grand 1919 coupole (avoid eating upstairs). If you’ve always wanted one of those pricey picturesque seafood platters, this is a good place, though the Alsatian dishes are far cheaper (open daily for lunch and dinner, fun kids’ menu, 5 Rue de la Bastille, don’t be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, tel. 01 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).
$$$ Le Temps des Cerises is a warm place with wads of character, a young and lively vibe, tight inside seating, and a couple of outdoor tables. (There are a few more upstairs that I’d avoid.) Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar, and stay for a very tasty dinner. Owner Ben takes good care of his guests and serves generous portions (reasonable wine list, daily, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, tel. 01 42 72 08 63).
$ Crêpes and Pizza: Two budget finds sit side-by-side where Rue St-Paul meets Rue Neuve St-Pierre. Both are open daily and have good but limited seating inside and out. Crêpolog dishes out a tasty range of appetizer, main course, and dessert crêpes using fresh batter (tel. 01 43 48 28 34). La Cerise sur la Pizza (“Cherry on the Pizza”) fires up great-looking pizza (eat there or to go, tel. 01 84 16 64 84).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: St-Paul)
$$$ Chez Mademoiselle’s country-elegant, candlelit decor recalls charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. Enjoy a French-paced (a.k.a. slow) dinner in a relaxing atmosphere (tables have generous spacing) inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. Let Alexia share her enthusiasm for her seasonal dishes before you choose. The tender château filet is served all year, but most dishes follow the seasons (good wine list, daily from 19:30, 16 Rue Charlemagne, tel. 01 42 72 14 16).
$$ Le Metropolitan is a tiny, easygoing bistro serving top-quality cuisine to those in the know. The young chef’s dishes are creative and delicious. Come early (opens at 19:00) or book ahead (closed Sun, 8 Rue de Jouy, tel. 09 81 20 37 38, www.metroresto.fr).
$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square, just off Rue St. Antoine, is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, this is a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents breathe. Survey the square. You’ll find three French bistros with similar features and menus: Le Marché, Chez Joséphine, and Le Bistrot de la Place (all open daily, cheaper for lunch, tight seating on simple chairs indoors and out). At Chez Joséphine the cuisine takes a back seat to its lively drink scene—I’d choose between the other two.
$$ Les Bougresses, just off the charming square, offers less romance but more taste. Stepping inside, you feel like you’ve joined a food lovers’ party with owners Mika and Constantin overseeing the conviviality (inside seating only, daily from 18:30, 6 Rue de Jarente, tel. 01 48 87 71 21).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)
$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose from several indoor zones with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from two dozen zakouskis (hot and cold hors d’oeuvres) to assemble your plat. Vegetarians will find great options (takeaway falafel sandwiches, long hours daily, corner of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais, tel. 01 42 72 18 86).
$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch but slammed on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily 9:00-19:00 but only dessert-type items offered after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 42 72 90 61).
$ Falafel Row is a series of inexpensive joints serving filling falafel sandwiches (and other Jewish dishes to go or to eat in) that line Rue des Rosiers between Rue des Ecouffes and Rue Vieille du Temple. Take a stroll along this short stretch to compare, then decide. Their takeout services draw a constant crowd (long hours most days, most are closed Fri evening and all day Sat).
$ La Droguerie, a hole-in-the-wall crêpe stand on Rue des Rosiers near Rue Vieille du Temple, is a good budget option if falafels don’t work for you but cheap does. Grab a stool, or get a crêpe to go and smile with the friendly owner/crêpe master (daily 12:00-22:00, 56 Rue des Rosiers).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)
$$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, tel. 01 48 87 15 40).
$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating on flimsy chairs and an artsy interior, it’s good for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a warm evening. Their €15 bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you would typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (daily 12:00-21:30, closes earlier in winter, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, tel. 01 42 74 70 57).
$$ Au Petit Fer à Cheval delivers classic seating ideal for admiring the Marais’ active night scene. The horseshoe-shaped zinc bar carbonates rich conversation—and the rear room is old-world adorable, but the few outdoor tables are street-theater perfect. The food is fairly priced, standard café fare (daily, 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 47 47).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from, with a salad bar, pizza by the slice, and pasta. It’s family-easy (daily, 11:00-19:00, hot food served until 16:00, open later Wed, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map.)
(Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Rambuteau)
$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory—and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. They talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink (closed Mon, serves nonstop 11:30-late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue du Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 13 77, www.breizhcafe.com).
(Mo: Pont Marie)
These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (see map on here).
$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy, medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill hearty wine. For dinner they serve up rustic, all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies and bundles of saucisson (cut whatever you like with your dagger), plates of pâté, a meat course, cheese, a dessert, and all the wine you can stomach for €40. The food is perfectly edible; burping is encouraged. If you want to overeat, drink too much wine, be surrounded by tourists (mostly French), and holler at your friends while receiving smart-aleck buccaneer service, you’re home. If you stay later, the atmosphere progresses from sloppy to frat party (daily, 39 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 66 07).
$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a tasty, lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (2- or 3-course menus or plat du jour only, daily, serves nonstop, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, tel. 01 43 25 76 67).
$$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic-yet-elegant place with soft lighting, comfortable spacious seating, and a hushed ambience. The cuisine blends traditional with modern touches (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 93 98).
$$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel serves basic French cuisine at reasonable prices. Along with like-mother-made-it comfort food, he serves good dinner salads (closed Wed, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 07 87).
$ Café Med, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery crêperie with good-value salads, crêpes, pasta, and several meat dishes (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 29 73 17). Two less atmospheric crêperies are just across the street.
$$ Au Bougnat, a short walk away on Ile de la Cité, is a place that delivers good cuisine at very fair prices with oodles of ambience. It’s a short hop from Notre-Dame and where local cops and workers get sandwiches, coffee, and reasonably priced menus (daily, 26 Rue Chanoinesse, tel. 01 43 54 50 74).
Ice-Cream Dessert: Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice-cream cone because this is the home of the famous les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer small tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 44 07 48 08). Having a little of each is not a bad thing.
(See “Restaurants on the Left Bank” map.)
(Mo: Odéon)
$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine takes you back to 1906 with an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. It’s like having dinner with Gustav Klimt and a bunch of tourists. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters give it an inviting conviviality. Check upstairs before choosing a table. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, tel. 01 44 32 15 60, www.bouillon-racine.com).
$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a pastel and dressy setting...with similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are sophisticated yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).
$$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a place to savor a light meal with a stylish young crowd (but only in good weather, as it’s all outdoors). The menu offers a limited selection of cheese and meat platters at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating light but well in such a Parisian setting (good salads, reasonable plats, May-Oct daily 12:00-23:00, no reservations, Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 85 41 30).
$$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a trendy, less tourist-friendly splurge where trusting foodies who book well in advance enjoy gourmet dishes with a modern flair. In a lively and jammed, streetfront setting, you’ll choose from either a delicious, five-course €60 fixed menu, or do your best to order à la carte (daily, reservations smart but only accepted Mon-Fri for those ordering the five-course menu, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 27 07 97).
$$ L’Avant Comptoir and L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer are two stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bars sitting next door to the mothership restaurant (described earlier). They serve an array of both French-Basque tapas and seafood tapas on sleek zinc counters. With illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceilings, these popular (and pretty intense) places are designed to make the cuisine from the pricey Le Comptoir more accessible. At the walk-up counters outside, you can get top quality sandwiches, crêpes, or seafood to go (for less and with less commotion). But step inside for the foodie bar and it’s another world (daily 12:00-23:00, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon).
$$ Breizh Café serves gourmet crêpes a short hop from Boulevard St. Germain. The staff is welcoming, the outside terrace is generous, and the interior has a stone-wall-and-oak-floor warmth (daily, 1 Rue de l’Odéon, tel. 01 42 49 34 73).
$$$ Brasserie Lipp is the place to experience an unspoiled yet famous brasserie. The cool two-level interior is awash with worn leather booths and faded decor that looks like it dates to when the place opened in 1880. Come for the ambience and good-enough cuisine (daily, 151 Boulevard St. Germain, tel. 01 45 48 72 93).
$$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s much loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France. The drawers you see at the back? They hold napkins for regulars (daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, cash only, no reservations, good wines by the glass, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, tel. 01 43 26 95 34).
(See “Restaurants on the Left Bank” map.)
(Mo: Cluny-La Sorbonne or RER/Train-B: Luxembourg)
$$$ Les Papilles is worth the walk. You’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine in a warm, woody bistro and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Choose your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead and make sure that you’re OK with what he’s cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, tel. 01 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).
$$ Le Pré Verre, a block from the Cluny Museum, is a welcoming wine bistro. Hands-on owner Jean-François serves imaginative, modern cuisine at fair prices (inside and out), and packs his place with locals (good wine list, closed Sun-Mon, 8 Rue Thénard, reservations necessary, tel. 01 43 54 59 47, www.lepreverre.com).
$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, tel. 01 43 26 57 56).
$$ Café de l’Ecritoire sits among other cafés on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. It’s a typical brasserie with salads, plats du jour, and good seating inside and out (daily, 3 Place de la Sorbonne, tel. 01 43 54 60 02).
$$ Restaurant La Mosquée transports diners to Morocco with its dazzling Arabic ambience and cuisine at fair prices. It’s tucked into the back of the Grande Mosquée de Paris and serves tasty baked goods, teas, and even tastier meals—including several varieties of couscous and tagine (daily 9:00-late, 39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, tel. 01 43 31 38 20).
(Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
$$$ Le Moulin de la Galette is a fine place to dine chez Renoir under the famous windmill. Along with the stylish decor, there’s well-respected cuisine (daily, 83 Rue Lepic, tel. 01 46 06 84 77).
$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good budget choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, cheap plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 23 Rue Muller, tel. 01 42 64 02 67).
$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, tel. 01 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).
Budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Paris is a big, crowded city, and getting across town or from terminal to terminal on time is a goal you’ll share with millions of others. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals. Always keep your luggage safely near you. Thieves prey on jet-lagged and confused tourists using public transportation.
Paris’ main airport (airport code: CDG, www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk) has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3 (see map). Most flights from the US use T-1 or T-2. You can travel between terminals on the free CDGVAL shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7) or by shuttle bus (on the arrivals level). Allow 30 minutes to travel between terminals and an hour for total travel time between your gates at T-1 and T-2. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.
When leaving Paris, make sure you know which terminal you are departing from (if it’s T-2, you’ll also need to know which hall you’re leaving from—they’re labeled A through F). Plan to arrive at the airport three hours early for an overseas flight, and two hours for flights within Europe (particularly on budget airlines, which can have especially long check-in lines). For airport and flight info, visit www.parisaeroport.fr.
Services: All terminals have Paris Tourisme information desks, where you can get city maps, buy a Paris Museum Pass, and get tickets for the RoissyBus or suburban RER/Train-B to Paris—a terrific time- and hassle-saver (to buy a Passe Navigo card, you must go to the airport train station). You’ll also find ATMs (distributeurs), free (but slow) Wi-Fi, shops, cafés, and bars. If you’re returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area.
This circular terminal has three key floors—arrivals (arrivées) on the top floor, and two floors for departures (départs) below. The terminal’s round shape can be confusing—if you feel like you’re going around in circles, you probably are.
Arrival Level (niveau arrivée): After passing through immigration and customs, you’ll exit between doors (porte) 34 and 36. Nearby are a snack stand and an ATM. Walk counterclockwise around the terminal to find the Paris Tourisme desk (door 6). Walk clockwise to find ground transportation: Le Bus Direct, RoissyBus, and the Disneyland shuttle bus (door 34), car rental counters (doors 24-30), and taxis (door 24).
Departure Levels (niveaux départ): Scan the departure screen to find out which hall you should go to for check-in. Halls 1-4 are on floor 2, and 5-6 are downstairs on floor 1. Also on floor 1 are the CDGVAL shuttle train, cafés, a post office (La Poste), pharmacy, boutiques, and a handy grocery. Boarding gates and duty-free shopping are located on floor 3, which is only accessible with a boarding pass.
This long, horseshoe-shaped terminal is divided into six halls, labeled A through F. If arriving here, be ready for long walks and short train rides to baggage claim and exits. It’s a busy place, so take a deep breath and follow signage carefully. A Paris Tourisme counter is located near gate 6/8 in each hall. Shuttle buses (navettes) circulate between T-2 halls A, C, and F, and to terminals T-1 and T-3 on the arrivals level. To locate bus stops for Le Bus Direct, RoissyBus, and the Disneyland shuttle—marked on the “Charles de Gaulle Airport” map—follow bus signs and bus icons.
T-2 has a train station, with suburban trains into Paris (described later), as well as longer-distance trains to the rest of France (including high-speed TGV trains, also called “InOui” trains). It’s located between T-2C/D and T-2E/F, below the Sheraton Hotel (prepare for a long walk to reach your train). Shuttle buses to airport hotels leave from above the train station at T-2.
Car-rental offices, post offices, pharmacies, and ATMs are all well signed. T-2E/F has duty-free shopping arcades, and other T-2 halls have smaller duty-free shops. You can stash your bags at Baggage du Monde, above the train station in T-2, but it’s pricey (daily 6:00-21:30, tel. 01 48 16 02 15, www.bagagesdumonde.com).
Buses, suburban trains, airport vans, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. If you’re traveling with two or more companions, carrying lots of baggage, or are just plain tired, taxis (or Uber) are worth the extra cost, but keep in mind that they can be slow on weekdays during rush-hour traffic. Total travel time to your hotel should be around 1.5 hours by bus and Métro, one hour by train and Métro, and 50 minutes by taxi. At the airport, using buses and taxis requires shorter walks than the suburban train. Transfers to Métro lines often involve stairs and long corridors. For more information, check the “Getting There” tab at www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk.
By RoissyBus: This bus drops you off at the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris (€12, runs 6:00-23:00, 3-4/hour, 50 minutes; buy ticket at airport Paris Tourisme desk, ticket machine, or on bus; tel. 3246, www.ratp.fr). The RoissyBus arrives on Rue Scribe; to get to the Métro entrance or nearest taxi stand, turn left as you exit the bus and walk counterclockwise around the lavish Opéra building to its front. A taxi to any of my listed hotels costs about €15 from here.
By Le Bus Direct (formerly Air France Bus): Several bus routes drop travelers at convenient points in and near the city, though it’s a bit slower (€17 one-way, €30 round-trip, runs 5:45-22:30, 2/hour, Wi-Fi and power outlets, toll tel. 08 92 35 08 20, www.lebusdirect.com). You can book tickets online (must print out and bring with you), buy at ticket machines or ticket windows at stops (credit card only, availability varies by stop), or pay the driver (cash only, see www.lebusdirect.com for round-trip and group discount details). Bus #2 goes to Porte Maillot (with connections to Beauvais Airport), the Arc de Triomphe (Etoile stop, 1 Avenue Carnot, 50 minutes, the Trocadéro (10 Place du Trocadéro, near Avenue d’Eylau), and ends near the Eiffel Tower at 20 Avenue de Suffren (1.25 hours, see map on here for Trocadéro and Eiffel Tower stops). Bus #4 runs to Gare de Lyon (45 minutes) and the Montparnasse Tower/train station (1.25 hours; see the map on here). Bus #3 goes to Orly Airport (€21, 1.25 hours). All Le Bus Direct stops in Paris are identified with an airplane icon above the shelter.
You can return to the airport on Le Bus Direct coaches at any of the above locations (though you might need to cross the street to head in the right direction).
By Suburban Train: Paris’ commuter RER/Train-B is the fastest public transit option for getting between the airport and the city center (€10.50, runs 5:00-24:00, 4/hour, about 35 minutes; you may still see maps and signage referring to these trains only by their old name, “RER”).
RER/Train-B runs directly to well-located RER/Train-B/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop the Métro to get exactly where you need to go. RER/Train-B is handy and cheap, but it can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10-15 minutes and may include stairs.
To reach RER/Train-B from the airport terminal, follow Paris by Train signs. (If you land at T-1 or T-3, you’ll need to take the CDGVAL shuttle to reach the train station.) The train station at T-2 is busy with long ticket-window lines (the other airport train station, between T-1 and T-2, is quieter). To save time, buy tickets/travel cards at a Paris Tourisme info desk or from the green ticket machines at the station (labeled Paris/Ile de France, takes cash and some American credit cards). For step-by-step instructions on taking RER/Train-B into Paris, see www.parisbytrain.com (see the options under “Airport”). Beware of thieves on the train; wear your money belt and keep your bags close.
To return to the airport on RER/Train-B from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 15-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest RER/Train-B station, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 35-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). Your Métro or bus ticket is not valid on RER/Train-B to the airport (but a Passe Navigo is). When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop served. (The line splits, so not every RER/Train-B serves the airport.) If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gaul?”
By Airport Van: Shuttle vans carry passengers to and from their hotels, with stops along the way to drop off and pick up other riders. Shuttles require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t know if your flight will arrive on time. For that reason, they work best for trips from your hotel to the airport. Though not as fast as taxis, shuttle vans are a good value for single travelers and big families (about €30 for one person, per-person price decreases the more you have in your party; have hotelier book at least a day in advance). Several companies offer shuttle service; I usually just go with the one my hotel uses. For groups of three or four, take a taxi or Uber instead.
By Taxi or Uber: Taxis charge a flat rate into Paris (€55 to the Left Bank, €50 to the Right Bank. Taxis can carry three people with bags comfortably, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger (though they may not like it; beyond that, there’s an extra passenger supplement). Larger parties can wait for a larger vehicle. Don’t take an unauthorized taxi from cabbies greeting you on arrival. Official taxi stands are well signed. For taxi trips from Paris to the airport, have your hotel arrange it. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more (and gives your hotel a kickback). For weekday-morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€7 reservation fee payable by credit card).
Uber offers Paris airport pickup and drop-off for the same rates as taxis, but since they can’t use the bus-only lanes (normal taxis can), expect some added time.
Paris Webservices Private Car: This professional car service works well from the airport because your driver meets you inside the terminal and waits if you’re late (two people-€90 one-way, €5-10/extra person up to 7, tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com). They also offer guided tours.
By Rental Car: Car-rental desks are well signed from the arrival halls. Be prepared for a maze of ramps as you drive away from the lot—get directions from the rental clerks when you do the paperwork. For information on parking in Paris, see the end of this chapter.
When returning your car, allow ample time to reach the drop-off lots (at T-1 and T-2), especially if flying out of T-2. Check your rental company’s exact drop-off location—there are several, and imperfect signage can make return lots confusing to find.
This easy-to-navigate airport (airport code: ORY, www.airport-orly.com) feels small, but it has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more. Orly is good for rental-car pickup and drop-off, as it’s closer to Paris and easier to navigate than Charles de Gaulle Airport.
Orly has two terminals: Ouest (west) and Sud (south). At both terminals, arrivals are on the ground level (level 0) and departures are on level 1. You can connect the two terminals with the free Orlyval shuttle train (well signed).
Services: Both terminals have Paris Tourisme desks in the arrivals area (a good spot to buy the Paris Museum Pass and tickets for public transit into Paris) and offer free Wi-Fi.
Shuttle buses (navettes), suburban trains, airport vans, and taxis connect Paris with either terminal. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels and are well signed.
By Bus or Tram: Bus bays are found in the Sud terminal outside exits L and G, and in the Ouest terminal outside exit D.
Le Bus Direct route #1 runs to Gare Montparnasse, Eiffel Tower, Trocadéro, and Arc de Triomphe/Etoile stops (all stops have connections to Métro lines). For Rue Cler hotels, take Le Bus Direct to the Eiffel Tower stop (20 Avenue de Suffren—see map on here), then walk 15 minutes across the Champ de Mars park to your hotel. Buses depart from the arrivals level—Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L; look for signs to navettes (€12 one-way, €20 round-trip, 4/hour, 40 minutes to the Eiffel Tower, buy ticket from driver or book online. See www.lebusdirect.com for details on round-trip and group discounts.
For the cheapest (but slow) access to central Paris (best for the Marais area), take tram line 7 from outside the Sud terminal (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif station to catch Métro line 7 (you’ll need one Métro ticket for the tram and one for the Métro—buy a carnet of 10 tickets at the Paris Tourisme desk in the terminal, 4/hour, 45 minutes to Villejuif Métro station, then 15-minute Métro ride to the Marais).
By Suburban Train: The next two options take you to RER/Train-B, with access to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport.
The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and RER/Train-B stations (€8, 3/hour, 30 minutes). The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony RER/Train-B station (€12.05, 6/hour, 40 minutes, buy ticket to Paris—not just to Antony—before boarding, smart to purchase your 10-ticket carnet for the Métro here, too). The Orlyval train is well signed and leaves from the departure level at both Orly terminals. Once at the RER/Train-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris.
For access to Left Bank neighborhoods (including Rue Cler) via RER/Train-C, take the bus marked Go C Paris five minutes to the Pont de Rungis station (€2 shuttle only, €6.25 combo-ticket includes RER/Train-C), then catch RER/Train-C to St. Michel, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, or Pont de l’Alma (direction: Versailles Château Rive Gauche or Pontoise, 4/hour, 35 minutes).
By Airport Van: From Orly, figure about €23 for one person or €30 for two (less per person for larger groups and kids).
By Taxi: Taxis are outside the Ouest terminal exit B, and to the far right as you leave the Sud terminal at exit M. Allow 30 minutes for a taxi ride into central Paris (fixed fare: €30 for Left Bank, €35 for Right Bank).
By Uber: Head toward exit B, following signs for Pre-Ordered Vehicles. Meet your Uber driver in the lot labeled Parking Pro (same fixed rate as taxis for central Paris).
Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport with two terminals (T-1 and T-2), offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas can be crowded, and services sparse (airport code: BVA, toll tel. 08 92 68 20 66, www.aeroportparisbeauvais.com).
Buses depart from a stop between the two terminals (€17 one-way, 2/hour, 1.5 hours to Paris, buy ticket online to save time, http://tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com). Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the west edge of Paris (where you can connect to Métro line 1 and RER/Train-C); the closest taxi stand is next door at the Hôtel Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile. To head back to Beauvais Airport from Porte Maillot, catch the bus in the parking lot on Boulevard Pershing next to the Hyatt Regency.
Trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (20/day, 1.5 hours). To reach the Beauvais train station, take the Hôtel/Aéroport Navette shuttle or local bus #12 (each hourly, 25 minutes).
Taxis run from Beauvais Airport to the Beauvais train station or city center (€20), or to central Paris (allow €150 and 1.5 hours).
Le Bus Direct #3 directly and conveniently links Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports (€21, stops at Charles de Gaulle T-1 and T-2 and Orly Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L, roughly 2/hour 5:45-23:00, 1 hour, www.lebusdirect.com).
Suburban RER/Train-B connects Charles de Gaulle and Orly but requires a transfer to the Orlyval train. It isn’t as easy as the Le Bus Direct mentioned above, but it’s faster when there’s traffic (€19, 5/hour, 1.5 hours). This line splits at both ends: Heading from Charles de Gaulle to Orly, take trains that serve the Antony stop (direction: St-Rémy-les-Chevreuse), then transfer to the Orlyval shuttle train; heading from Orly to Charles de Gaulle, take trains that end at the airport—Aéroport Charles de Gaulle-Roissy, not Mitry-Claye.
Taxis take about one hour and are easiest, but pricey (about €85, book online for best rates, http://city-airport-taxis.com); shuttle services are a cheaper option.
You can connect Charles de Gaulle or Orly to Beauvais via Gare du Nord, then a train to the town of Beauvais. From there, you can take a shuttle, local bus, or taxi to Beauvais Airport. From Charles de Gaulle, take RER/Train-B to Gare du Nord; from Orly, take the Orlybus or Orlyval shuttle train (described earlier, under “Orly Airport”) to the suburban train station to pick up RER/Train-B to Gare du Nord.
Taxis between Charles de Gaulle and Beauvais take one hour and cost about €120; from Orly, it’s about a 1.5-hour taxi ride and about €150 (http://city-airport-taxis.com).
Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor station, and trains heading in different directions:
• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)
• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)
• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)
• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)
• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Bercy (smaller station with non-TGV trains mostly serving cities in Burgundy)
The main train stations all have free Wi-Fi, banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag firmly gripped in front of you). Not all have baggage checks.
Any train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination, although it may be handier to buy tickets from a neighborhood SNCF office.
Each station offers two types of rail service: long distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines, TGV—also called “InOui”—or TER trains); and commuter service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or suburban trains lines A-K. You also may see ticket windows identified as Ile de France. These are for Transilien trains serving destinations outside Paris in the Ile de France region (usually no more than an hour from Paris). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks. Métro and suburban train lines A-K, as well as buses and taxis, are well marked at every station.
Budget plenty of time before your departure to factor in ticket lines and making your way through large, crowded stations. Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down, take a deep breath, and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. Bring a pad of paper and a pen for clear communication at ticket/info windows. It helps to write down the ticket you want. For instance: “28/05/19 Paris-NordLyon dep. 18:30.” All stations have a central information booth (accueil); bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows. I make a habit of confirming my track number and departure time with these helpers (all rail staff speak English). To make your trip go more smoothly, be sure to review the train tips on here.
The granddaddy of Paris’ train stations serves cities in northern France and international destinations north of Paris, including Copenhagen, Amsterdam, and the Eurostar to London. The station is undergoing a €600-million renovation that won’t be finished until 2024—expect changes and construction disruptions.
Look for circulating information-helpers. A helpful TI kiosk (labeled Paris Tourist Office) opposite track 8 sells Paris Museum Passes and fast-pass “coupe-file” tickets (credit cards only).
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Brussels by Thalys (at least hourly, 1.5 hours), Bruges (at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam by Thalys (9/day direct, 3.5 hours), Berlin (4/day, 8.5 hours, change in Cologne or Dortmund), Koblenz (4/day, 5 hours, change in Cologne, more from Gare de l’Est that don’t cross Belgium), and London by Eurostar (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours).
By Banlieue/Suburban Lines: Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 35 minutes, track 41-44), and Pontoise (2/hour, 50 minutes).
This big, modern station covers three floors, serves lower Normandy and Brittany, and has TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France, as well as suburban service to Chartres. Trains to Chartres usually depart from tracks 18-24.
Most services are provided on the top level (second floor up, Hall 1), where all trains arrive and depart. Baggage check (consignes) is by track 24, and the main rail information office (accueil) is opposite track 16. As you face the tracks, to the far left and outside are Le Bus Direct buses to Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte).
City buses are out front, between the train station and the Montparnasse Tower (down the escalator through the glassy facade). Bus #96 is good for connecting to Marais and Luxembourg area hotels, while #92 is ideal for Rue Cler hotels (both easier than the Métro).
Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (14/day, 1 hour), Amboise (8/day in 1.5 hours with change in St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; non-TGV trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (5/day, 5.5 hours, via Rennes or Caen), Dinan (6/day, 4 hours, change in Rennes and Dol), Bordeaux (20/day, 2.5 hours), Sarlat (4/day, 5 hours, change in Bordeaux), Toulouse (6/day, 4.5 hours, more with change in Bordeaux), Albi (4/day, 6.5-9 hours, change in Montauban or Toulouse), Tours (8/day, 1 hour), and Hendaye (8/day, 5 hours, connect here to San Sebastian by local train).
This huge, bewildering station offers TGV and regular service to southeastern France, Italy, Switzerland, and other international destinations. Grandes Lignes and Banlieue lines share the same tracks. Platforms are divided into two areas: Hall 1 (tracks A-N) and Hall 2 (tracks 5-23). Hall 3 is underground with more ticket offices, food services, and quieter waiting areas—but no trains.
Le Bus Direct coaches—to Gare Montparnasse (easy transfer to Orly Airport) and direct to Charles de Gaulle Airport—stop outside the station’s main entrance. They are signed Navette-Aéroport. To find them, exit Hall 1 with your back to track A. Walk down the ramp toward the Café Européen. Turn right at the street (Boulevard Diderot), walk a block, and find the shelter with the airplane icon. For more on Le Bus Direct, see here.
Hall 2 has the best services—including a train information office, pharmacy, and a handy Monop grocery store. You’ll find baggage check (consignes) in Hall 2 down the ramp, opposite track 17, and in Hall 1, downstairs by track M. Car rental is out the exit past track M (Hall 1).
Don’t leave the station without at least taking a peek at the recommended Le Train Bleu Restaurant in Hall 1, up the stairs opposite tracks G-L (no elevator, see listing on here).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Disneyland (RER/Train-A to Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy, at least 3/hour, 45 minutes), Beaune (roughly hourly at rush hour but few midday, 2.5 hours, most require change in Dijon; direct trains from Paris’ Bercy station take an hour longer), Dijon (TGV trains only, roughly hourly, 1.5 hours; see Gare de Bercy for local trains), Chamonix (7/day, 5.5-7 hours, some change in Switzerland), Annecy (hourly, 4 hours, many with change in Lyon), Lyon (hourly, 2 hours), Avignon (hourly direct, 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV station; 5/day in 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville Station, more connections with change—3-4 hours), Arles (hourly, 4 hours, transfer in Avignon or Nîmes), Nice (hourly, 6 hours, may require change), Carcassonne (8/day, 5.5 hours, 1 change usually in Bordeaux), Zürich (4/day direct, 4 hours), Venice (4/day, 9.5-11.5 hours with 1-3 changes; 1 direct overnight—see “Specialty Trains from Paris,” later), Rome (2/day, 11-12 hours, 1-3 changes), Bern (1/day direct, 6/day with change in Basel, 4-5 hours), Interlaken (5/day with change in Basel, 5-5.5 hours, 8/day more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2-4/day direct, 6.5 hours).
This two-floor station (with underground Métro) serves northeastern France and international destinations east of Paris. All trains depart at street level from tracks 1-30. Most services are opposite tracks 12-20 (baggage lockers, car rental, WC, small grocery store, shops, and Métro access).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Colmar (12/day with TGV, 2.5 hours, 3 direct, others change in Strasbourg), Strasbourg (hourly with TGV, under 2 hours), Reims Centre station (8/day by direct TGV, 45 minutes), Verdun (5/day direct to Meuse TGV station and shuttle bus, 1.5 hours; 3.5 hours by regional train with transfer), Interlaken (12/day, 6 hours, 1-2 changes, faster trains from Gare de Lyon), Zürich (12/day, 5-7 hours, 1-2 changes, faster direct trains from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (4 direct/day, 4 hours; 3 more/day with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Munich (1/day direct, 6/day with 1 change, 6 hours), and Berlin (6/day, 8.5 hours, 1 change; trains run via Germany, not Belgium).
This compact station serves upper Normandy, including Rouen and Giverny. All trains arrive and depart one floor above street level.
Grandes Lignes to all destinations listed below depart from tracks 18-27; Banlieue trains depart from 1-16. This station has no baggage check, but it does have a three-floor shopping mall (Monop grocery store, pharmacy, clothing stores, and more).
Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Giverny (train to Vernon, 8/day Mon-Sat, 6/day Sun, 45 minutes), Pontoise (1-2/hour, 45 minutes), Rouen (nearly hourly, 1.5 hours), Le Havre (hourly, 2.5 hours, some change in Rouen), Honfleur (13/day, 2-3.5 hours, via Lisieux, Deauville, or Le Havre, then bus), Bayeux (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Caen (14/day, 2 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This small station currently provides non-TGV service to the Loire Valley, southwestern France, and Spain. All tracks are at street level. Baggage check and WCs (with pay showers that include towel and soap) are opposite track 4. To get to the Métro and RER/Train-C, you must walk outside and along either side of the station. Car rental is across the river at Gare de Lyon (a level 10-minute walk—follow signs opposite track 1).
Key Destinations Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Orly Airport (via RER/Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Versailles (via RER/Train-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Amboise (3/day direct in 2 hours, more with transfer; faster TGV connection from Gare Montparnasse), Sarlat (1/day, 6.5 hours, requires change to bus in Souillac, 3 more/day via Gare Montparnasse), and Cahors (5/day, 5 hours; slower trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This smaller station mostly handles southbound non-TGV trains such as to Dijon (6/day, 3 hours), but some TGV trains do stop here in peak season (Mo: Bercy, one stop east of Gare de Lyon on line 14, exit the Bercy Métro station and it’s across the street). Facilities are limited—just a WC and a sandwich-fare takeout café.
A TGV train called OuiGo (pronounced “we go”) offers rock-bottom fares and no-frills service to select French cities also served by regular TGV trains. Departures from TGV stations at Marne-la-Vallée (Disneyland Paris) and Charles de Gaulle Airport run to southern France. The catch: Both stations are about an hour from central Paris (Marne-la-Vallée on suburban RER/Train-A or Charles de Gaulle Airport on suburban RER/Train-B). From central Paris, routes to western France depart from Montparnasse Vaugirard station in Hall 3 and most east-bound service departs from Gare de l’Est. You must print your ticket within four days of departure (or download it to your phone), arrive 30 minutes before departure, and activate your ticket. Rail passes are not accepted, and you can only bring one carry-on-size bag plus one handbag for free (children’s tickets allow you to bring a stroller). Larger or extra luggage is €5/bag if you pay when you buy your ticket. If you just show up without paying in advance, it’s €20/bag on the train—yikes. There’s no food service on the train (BYO), but children under age 12 pay only €5 for a seat. The website explains it all in easy-to-understand English (https://en.oui.sncf/en/ouigo).
The pricey high-speed Thalys train has the monopoly on the rail route between Paris and Brussels. Without a rail pass, for the Paris-Amsterdam train, you’ll pay about €80-205 first class, €35-135 second class (compared to €38-50 by bus); for the Paris-Brussels train it’s €65-140 first class, €30-100 second class (€20-30 by bus). Even with a rail pass, you need to pay for train reservations (first class-€25-30, includes a light meal; second class-€20-25). Book early for the best rates (discounted seats are limited, www.thalys.com).
Thalys also operates a slower, cheaper Paris-to-Brussels train called IZY (2-3/day, 2.5 hours, tickets from €10 for standing room to €29 full fare, rail passes not accepted, luggage limits, online only at www.izy.com). Thalys and IZY trains both use Gare du Nord. For another cheap option, try Flixbus or OuiBus (see “Paris Bus Connections,” later).
The Eurostar zips you (and up to 800 others in 18 sleek cars) from downtown Paris to downtown London at 190 mph in 2.5 hours (1-2/hour). The tunnel crossing is a 20-minute, silent, 100-mile-per-hour nonevent. Your ears won’t even pop.
Eurostar Fares: Prices vary depending on how far ahead you reserve (possible up to 9 months in advance) and whether you’re eligible for discounts (children under 12, youths under 26, and round-trip travelers qualify). Typically, a one-way, full-fare ticket runs about $250 (Standard), $310 (Standard Premier), or $375 (Business Premier—no discounts for this level). Cheaper advance rates can sell out quickly.
Rail Pass Coverage: The Eurostar is covered by a Eurail Global Pass, or a Eurail Three-Country or Four-Country Select Pass that includes France, but you must still buy a seat reservation (€30 Standard, €38 Standard Premier). Since some advance tickets can be almost this cheap, compare rates when you’re ready to reserve and consider whether you’ll use the pass to travel any further on the same day.
Buying Eurostar Tickets: Because only the most expensive (Business Premier) ticket is refundable, and other rates have exchange restrictions, don’t reserve until you’re sure of your plans. But if you wait too long, the cheapest tickets will be gone.
You can buy tickets online using the print-at-home eticket option at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or www.eurostar.com. You can also order by phone through Rail Europe (US tel. 800-387-6782) for home delivery before you go, or through Eurostar (French toll tel. 08 92 35 35 39, priced in euros) to pick up at the train station. In continental Europe you can buy your Eurostar tickets at any major train station in any country, at neighborhood SNCF offices, or at any travel agency that handles train tickets (booking fee).
Seat reservations for Eurail pass holders (very limited) are available through US agents, at Eurostar departure stations, or by phone with Eurostar. It’s smart to book seat reservations online in advance at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or through Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com).
Taking the Eurostar: Eurostar trains depart from and arrive at Paris’ Gare du Nord. Check in at least 45 minutes in advance (remember that times listed on tickets are local times—departure from Paris is French time, arrival in London is British time). Pass through airport-like security, show your passport to customs officials, and locate your departure gate (shown on a TV monitor). There’s a reasonable restaurant before the first check-in point, but only a couple of tiny sandwich-and-coffee counters in the cramped waiting area.
The direct night train that runs between Paris and Venice (with stops in Dijon, Milan, and a few other northern Italian cities) is operated under the private brand Thello (pronounced “Tell-o”; rail passes not accepted). For the best prices, buy your ticket up to six months in advance (www.ricksteves.com/rail or www.thello.com)—or consider flying.
Buses generally provide the cheapest—if less comfortable and more time-consuming—transportation to major European cities. The bus is also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares.
Eurolines is the old standby; two relative newcomers (Ouibus and Flixbus, see below) are cutting prices drastically, adding more destinations, and ramping up onboard comfort with Wi-Fi and snacks. These companies provide service usually between train stations and airports within France and to many international destinations. If the schedule works for you, it’s a handy and cheap way to connect Paris airports with other French destinations (Blois, Rouen, and Caen, for example) and skip central Paris train stations.
OuiBus has routes mostly within France but serves some European cities as well (central Paris stop is at Gare de Bercy, Mo: Bercy, easy online booking, toll tel. 08 92 68 00 68, www.ouibus.com). German-run FlixBus connects key cities within France and throughout Europe, often from secondary airports and train stations (central Paris stop is near Porte Maillot at 16 Boulevard Pershing, Mo: Porte Maillot, handy eticket system and easy-to-use app, tel. 01 76 36 04 12, www.flixbus.com). Eurolines’ buses depart from Paris’ Gare Routière du Paris-Gallieni in the suburb of Bagnolet (28 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, Mo: Gallieni, toll tel. 08 92 89 90 91; from the US, dial 011 33 1 41 86 24 21, www.eurolines.com).
Street parking is generally free at night (20:00-9:00) and all day Sunday. To pay for streetside parking, use a credit card. Meters limit street parking to a maximum of two hours.
Underground garages are plentiful in Paris. You’ll find them under Ecole Militaire, St. Sulpice Church, Les Invalides, the Bastille, and the Panthéon; all charge about €25-50/day (€50-70/3 days, €10/day more after that, for locations see www.parisfranceparking.com). Some hotels offer parking for less—ask your hotelier.
For a longer stay, park at an airport (about €20/day) and take public transport or a taxi into the city. Orly is closer and easier for drivers to navigate than Charles de Gaulle.
Ships visiting “Paris” actually call at the industrial city of Le Havre, France’s second-biggest port (after Marseille), and the primary French port on the Atlantic.
Paris and Le Havre are connected by train (about 3 hours each way). To get from the port to the Le Havre train/bus station, you can ride a cruise-line shuttle bus or take a taxi. From there, trains leave about every 1-2 hours for the three-hour journey to Paris’ St. Lazare station (fewer on weekends).
For port information, see www.lehavretourisme.com (choose “To Discover,” then “The cruise destination”). For more about Le Havre, see my Rick Steves Scandinavian & Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.