USING A MOBILE PHONE IN EUROPE
Map: Public Transportation in France
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
Map: How to Navigate a Roundabout
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-tips.
The French national tourist office is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website—http://us.france.fr. It has particularly good resources for special-interest travel and plenty of free-to-download brochures. Paris’ official TI website, www.parisinfo.com, offers practical information on hotels, special events, museums, children’s activities, fashion, nightlife, and more.
In France, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). TIs are in business to help you enjoy spending money in their town, but even so, I still make a point to swing by to confirm sightseeing plans, pick up a city map, and get information on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Anticipating a harried front-line staffer, prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check. Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps and get information for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip. Towns with a lot of tourism generally have English-speaking guides available for private hire through the TI (about €100 for a two-hour guided town walk).
The French call TIs by different names: Office de Tourisme and Bureau de Tourisme are used in cities; Syndicat d’Initiative and Information Touristique are used in small towns. Also look for Accueil signs in airports and at popular sights. These information booths are staffed with seasonal helpers who provide tourists with limited, though generally sufficient, information. Smaller TIs are often closed from 12:00 to 14:00 and on Sundays.
Other Helpful Services: Several private companies offer trip-planning services for a fee. Detours in France offers self-drive itinerary packages, hotel bookings, and guided tours of any region in France (tel. 09 83 20 71 56, www.detours-in-france.com). Paris Webservices focuses on Paris-specific assistance (tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com, contactpws@pariswebservices.com).
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline. Operators, who in most countries speak English, will deal with your request or route you to the right emergency service. For hearing-assisted help for all services, dial 114. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards,” later). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
US Consulate and Embassy: Embassy visits usually require an appointment online or by phone. Paris—tel. 01 43 12 22 22 (2 Avenue Gabriel, to the left as you face Hôtel Crillon, Mo: Concorde, https://fr.usembassy.gov). Marseille—tel. 01 43 12 48 85 (Place Varian Fry, 13286 Marseille, https://fr.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/marseille).
Canadian Consulate and Embassy: Paris—tel. 01 44 43 29 00 (130 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Mo: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule or Miromesnil, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/france). Nice—tel. 04 93 92 93 22 (10 Rue Lamartine, nice@international.gc.ca). For 24/7 emergency assistance call collect to Canada 613/996-8885 or email sos@international.gc.ca.
Time Zones: France, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your mobile phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: You’ll find much of rural France closed weekdays from 12:00 to 14:00 (lunch is sacred). On Sunday, most businesses are closed (family is sacred), though some small shops such as boulangeries (bakeries) are open until noon, special events and weekly markets pop up, and museums are open all day (but public transportation options are limited). On Mondays, some businesses are closed until 14:00 and possibly all day. Smaller towns are often quiet and downright boring on Sundays and Mondays, unless it’s market day.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 60 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. To inquire about a senior discount, ask, “Réduction troisième âge?” (ray-dewk-see-ohn trwah-zee-ehm ahzh). Some discounts are available only to European citizens.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com is also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for a cash machine (ATM) at the airport and withdraw some local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• Pay for most purchases with your choice of cash or a credit card. You’ll save money by minimizing your credit and debit card exchange fees. The trend is for bigger expenses to be paid by credit card, but cash is still the standby for small purchases and tips.
• Keep your cards and cash safe in a money belt.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe (particularly in Paris), cash is sometimes the only way to pay for cheap food, taxis, tips, and local guides. Some businesses (especially smaller ones, such as B&Bs and mom-and-pop cafés and shops) may charge you extra for using a credit card—or might not accept credit cards at all. Having cash on hand helps you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work.
I use my credit card to book and pay for hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, and to cover most expenses. It can also be smart to use plastic near the end of your trip, to avoid another visit to the ATM.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Handy for bigger purchases (at hotels, shops, restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on), payment machines, and ordering online.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost, demagnetized, eaten by a temperamental machine, or simply doesn’t work.
A Stash of Cash: For an emergency reserve, in most of Europe bring dollars. But in France consider bringing €200 in €20-50 bills (bring euros, as dollars can be hard to change in France).
Use this pretrip checklist.
Know your cards. Debit cards from any major US bank will work in any standard European bank’s ATM (ideally, use a debit card with a Visa or MasterCard logo). As for credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal, American Express is less common, and Discover is unknown in Europe.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for all your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one and allow time to receive the information by mail.
All credit and debit cards now have chips that authenticate and secure transactions. Europeans insert their chip cards into the payment machine slot, then enter a PIN. American cards should work in most transactions—but you’ll need a PIN at self-service machines at train stations, toll booths, gas pumps, or parking lots.
If you’re concerned, a few banks offer a chip-and-PIN card that works in almost all payment machines, including those from Andrews Federal Credit Union (www.andrewsfcu.org) and the State Department Federal Credit Union (www.sdfcu.org).
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts; you’re unlikely to have access to your savings account.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (1 percent). Consider getting a new debit or credit card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low-to-no international transaction fees.
European cash machines have English-language instructions and work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate.
In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in France ask for a distributeur (dee-stree-bew-tur). When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank. Ideally use it during the bank’s opening hours so if your card is munched by the machine, you can go inside for help.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later—your bank’s network may be temporarily down.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure than a bank ATM, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see below).
Avoid exchanging money in Europe; it’s a big rip-off. In a pinch you can always find exchange desks at major train stations or airports—convenient but with crummy rates. Anything over 5 percent for a transaction is piracy. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
US credit cards no longer require a signature for verification, but don’t be surprised if a European card reader generates a receipt for you to sign or prompts you to enter a PIN (it’s important to know the code for each of your cards). After entering your PIN, you may need to press “validate,” usually shown as a “V” on the keypad or touch screen. If a cashier is present, you should have no problems.
In France, self-service payment machines (transit-ticket kiosks, parking, freeway tollbooths, etc.) can be a headache, as US cards may not work in unattended transactions even if you know the PIN (though this is rare with updated cards). If that happens, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash. (If all else fails, you could give cash to a French person in return for using their card).
Drivers Beware: Be aware of potential problems using a US credit card to fill up at an unattended gas station, enter a parking garage, or exit a toll road. Carry cash in bills under €50 and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. When approaching a toll payment plaza, look for coin icons (meaning cash) or a green arrow. For more tips, see the “Driving” section, later.
If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay extra for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency.
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while the fraudulent use is investigated by your bank.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later in this chapter).
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In France, to make a collect call to the US, dial 08 00 90 06 24, then say “operator” for an English-speaking operator.
For another option (with the same results), you can call these toll-free numbers in France: Visa (tel. 08 00 90 11 79), MasterCard (tel. 08 00 90 13 87), and American Express (tel. 08 05 54 05 24).
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping (donner un pourboire) in France isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At cafés and restaurants, a service charge is included in the price of what you order, and it’s unnecessary to tip extra, though you can for helpful service. For details on tipping in restaurants, see “Eating,” later.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €13, pay €14). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your French souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 20 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €175 (about $210) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount on souvenirs.
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a bordereau de détaxe. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in to allow time to find the customs office—and wait. Some customs desks are positioned before airport security; confirm the location before going through security.
It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re not allowed as carry-on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your chic new shoes, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You can claim your VAT refund from refund companies, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, with offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). At Paris’ Charles de Gaulle, you’ll find them at the check-in area (or ask for help at a Paris Tourisme desk). These services (which extract a 4 percent fee) can refund your money in cash immediately or credit your card (within two billing cycles). Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the shop where you made your purchase.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to France’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, and local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps. More detailed maps are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device. Be aware that pulling up maps or turn-by-turn walking directions on the fly requires an internet connection: To use this feature, it’s smart to get an international data plan. With Google Maps or City Maps 2Go, it’s possible to download a map while online, then go offline and navigate without incurring data-roaming charges—though you can’t search for an address or get real-time walking directions. A handful of other apps, including Apple Maps, OffMaps, and Navfree, also allow you to use maps offline.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in the bigger cities, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for Paris, Normandy, Nice, Lyon, the Loire Valley châteaux, Provence, the French Riviera, and the Dordogne’s prehistoric sights. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Given how precious your vacation time is, I recommend getting reservations for any must-see sight that offers them (see here). Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check online for possible museum closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late; in the off-season, hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early (arrive at least 15 minutes before opening time) or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds. For example, Paris’ Louvre and Orsay museums are open selected evenings, and the abbey at Mont St-Michel is open on summer evenings.
Many French monuments and cities (and some villages) are beautifully lit at night, making evening walks a joy. Sound-and-light shows (son et lumière) are outdoor events held at major buildings after dark; you’ll take a seat and watch an array of colored lights illuminate the facade (e.g., of the town’s cathedral) while a narrator or audioguide melodramatically tells the story of the place. These spectacles, which usually require a fee, can be a fun experience (though once is usually enough for most).
At Mont St-Michel and Carcassonne, it’s best to arrive at about 17:00, spend the night, and explore in the evening and the next morning before the crowds descend. Visit these sights first thing or late in the day: Versailles, Château de Chenonceau, Les Baux, Roussillon, St-Paul-de-Vence, the Dordogne’s riverfront villages, St-Cirq-Lapopie, and Pont du Gard.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit. The Louvre is more interesting if you understand why the Venus de Milo is so disarming.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Several cities offer sightseeing passes (listed in this book) that can be worthwhile values. For example, most adult travelers visiting Paris should buy a Paris Museum Pass, which can speed you through lines and save you money. Without the pass, advance tickets can save time in line at popular sights (see here). It’s always smart to reserve a ticket for the Eiffel Tower (not covered by Paris Museum Pass; for details, see here).
You may not be allowed to enter some sights if you arrive less than 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check, and some are fairly rigorous. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged though rarely enforced.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask for its location by saying, “Où est?” (oo ay).
Audioguides and Apps: Many sights rent hand-held audioguides, which generally offer worthwhile recorded descriptions in English. Many audioguides have a standard output jack so if you bring your own earbuds, you can often enjoy better sound. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Increasingly, museums and sights offer apps—often free—that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites). And, I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Historic Paris and Rue Cler walks, plus tours of the Louvre, Orsay Museum, Versailles, and Père Lachaise Cemetery. My Arles City Walk audio tour is coming in 2019. Look for the 
in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Good-value accommodations in France are generally easy to find. Choose from one- to five-star hotels (two and three stars are my mainstays), bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes, usually cheaper than hotels), hostels, campgrounds, and homes (gîtes, rented by the week).
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping section. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for French traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a spa. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. Reserving ahead is particularly important for Paris—the sooner, the better. Wherever you’re staying, be ready for larger crowds in May and September and during these holiday periods: Easter weekend, Labor Day, Ascension weekend, Pentecost weekend, Bastille Day and the week during which it falls, and the winter holidays (mid-Dec-early Jan). Note that many holiday weekends fall in May, jamming French hotels. In August and at other times when business is slower, some Paris hotels offer lower rates to fill their rooms. Check hotel websites for the best deals.
See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in France.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling ahead a few days to a week before their arrival. It’s best to call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows which rooms will be available. Some apps—such as HotelTonight—specialize in last-minute rooms, often at business-class hotels in big cities. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in a standard double room with a private toilet and shower in high season, don’t include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through a booking site, which extracts a commission). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant.
Room rates are especially volatile at larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Prices can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. Of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking Hotels.com, Booking.com, and hotel websites. But to get the best deal, contact hotels directly. When you go direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, thereby leaving enough wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast. If you prefer to book online or are considering a hotel chain, it’s to your advantage to use the hotel’s website. French hotels recently won the right to undercut Booking.com and Hotels.com prices on their websites; virtually all offer lower rates if you book direct. If the price they quote is higher than the offer on a booking site, let the hotel know, and they’ll usually adjust the rate.
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show it upon arrival, and sometimes stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Room Taxes: Hotels in France must charge a daily tax (taxe du séjour) of about €1-4 per person per day (based on the number of stars the hotel has). Some hotels include it in their prices, but most add it to your bill.
In this book, the price for a double room will normally range from €70 (very simple; toilet and shower down the hall) to €400 (grand lobbies, maximum plumbing, and the works), with most clustering around €100-140 (with private bathrooms).
Most hotels also offer single rooms and some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
The French have a simple hotel rating system based on amenities and rated by stars (indicated in this book by asterisks, from * through *****). One star is modest, two has most of the comforts, and three is generally a two-star with a fancier lobby and more elaborately designed rooms. Four-star places give a bit more comfort than those with three. Five stars probably offer more luxury than you’ll have time to appreciate. Two-star-and-above hotels are required to have an English-speaking staff, though nearly all hotels I recommend have someone who speaks English.
The number of stars does not always reflect room size or guarantee quality. One- and two-star hotels are less expensive, but some three-star (and even a few four-star) hotels offer good value, justifying the extra cost. Unclassified hotels (no stars) can be bargains...or depressing dumps.
Within each hotel, prices vary depending on the size of the room, whether it has a tub or shower, and the bed type (tubs and twins cost more than showers and double beds). If you have a preference, ask for it. Hotels often have more rooms with tubs (which the French prefer) and are inclined to give you one by default. You can save lots by finding the rare room without a private shower or toilet.
Most French hotels now have queen-size beds—to confirm, ask, “Avez-vous des lits queen-size?” (ah-vay-voo day lee queen-size). Some hotels push two twins together under king-size sheets and blankets to make le king-size. If you’ll take either twins or a double, ask for a generic une chambre pour deux (room for two) to avoid being needlessly turned away. Many hotels have a few family-friendly rooms that open up to each other (chambres communiquantes).
Arrival and Check-In: Hotel elevators are becoming more common, though many older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up). Elevators are typically small—packing light helps, or if you’re driving, consider keeping bulky things in your car.
The EU requires that hotels collect your name, nationality, and ID number. When you check in, the receptionist may ask for your passport and may keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. (If not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk for a long time, ask when you can pick it up.)
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hotel lobbies, halls, and breakfast rooms are off-limits to smokers, though they can light up in their rooms. Still, I seldom smell any smoke in my rooms. Some hotels have nonsmoking rooms or floors—ask.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal might be available only in the lobby). Simpler places rarely have a room phone.
The latest trend is to provide quilts as the only bed covering. While comfortable, they’re warm in summers (forcing me to use air-conditioning)—ask the hotel for a sheet (uhn drah) for cooler sleeping.
Extra pillows and blankets are often in the closet or available on request. To get a pillow, ask for “Un oreiller, s’il vous plaît” (uhn oh-ray-yay, see voo play). Towels and linens aren’t always replaced every day so hang your towel up to dry.
Breakfast and Meals: Most hotels offer breakfast, but it’s rarely included in the room rates—pay attention when comparing rates between hotels (though some offer free breakfast to Rick Steves readers or with direct booking—ask). The price of breakfast correlates with the price of the room: The more expensive the room, the more expensive the breakfast. This per-person charge rises with the number of stars the hotel has and can add up, particularly for families. While hotels hope you’ll buy their breakfast, it’s optional unless otherwise noted; to save money, head to a bakery or café instead.
Some hoteliers, especially in resort towns, strongly encourage their peak-season guests to take demi-pension (half-pension)—that is, breakfast and either lunch or dinner. By law, they can’t require you to take half-pension unless you are staying three or more nights, but, in practice, some do during high season. And though the food is usually good, it limits your ability to shop around. I’ve indicated where I think demi-pension is a good value.
Hoteliers uniformly detest it when people bring food into bedrooms. Dinner picnics are particularly frowned upon: Hoteliers worry about cleanliness, smells, and attracting insects. Be tidy and considerate.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in. Some hoteliers will ask you to sign their Livre d’Or (literally “Golden Book,” for client comments). They take this seriously and enjoy reading your remarks.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to calling an English-speaking doctor, or finding a good restaurant, Wi-Fi hotspot (point Wi-Fi, pwan wee-fee), a late-night pharmacy, or a self-service launderette (laverie automatique, lah-vay-ree oh-to-mah-teek).
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Modern Hotel Chains: France is littered with ultramodern hotels, providing drivers with low-stress accommodations and often located on cheap land just outside town. The clean and inexpensive Ibis Budget chain (about €55/room for up to three people), the more attractive and spacious standard Ibis hotels (€100-170 for a double), and the cushier Mercure and Novotel hotels (€170-300 for a double) are all run by the same company, Accor (www.accorhotels.com). Though hardly quaint, these can be a good value (look for deals on their websites), particularly when they’re centrally located; I list several in this book. Other chains to consider are Kyriad, with moderate prices and good quality (www.kyriad.com) and the familiar-to-Americans Best Western (www.bestwestern.com). Château and Hotels Collection has more cushy digs (www.chateauxhotels.com).
B&Bs (chambres d’hôte, abbreviated “CH”) generally are found in smaller towns and rural areas. They’re usually family-run and a good deal, offering double the cultural intimacy for less than most hotel rooms. While you may lose some hotel conveniences—such as lounges, TVs, daily bed-sheet changes, and credit-card payments—I happily make the trade-off for the personal touch and lower rates. It’s always OK to ask to see the room before you commit. And though some CHs post small Chambres or Chambres d’hôte signs in their front windows, many are found only through the local tourist office.
I recommend reliable CHs that offer a good value and/or unique experience (such as CHs in renovated mills, châteaux, and wine domaines). For a list of over 17,000 chambres d’hôte throughout France, check www.chambres-hotes.fr. You can see images of places to stay, make a reservation, and get directions for any listing on the website. While chambres d’hôte have their own star-rating system, it doesn’t correspond to the hotels’ rating system. To avoid confusion, I haven’t listed these stars for CHs. But virtually all of my recommended CHs have private in-room bathrooms and Wi-Fi, and some have common rooms with refrigerators and kitchenettes. Doubles generally cost €60-80; fancier places are about €100-120. Breakfast is usually included, but not always—ask. Tables d’hôte are CHs that offer an optional home-cooked dinner (usually a great value, must be requested in advance). And though your hosts may not speak English, they will almost always be enthusiastic and pleasant.
Countryside gîtes (pronounced “zheet”) are usually urbanites’ second, countryside homes, rentable by the week, from Saturday to Saturday.
Gîtes are best for drivers (they’re usually rural, with little public-transport access) and ideal for families and small groups (since they can sleep many for the same price). Homes range in comfort from simple cottages and farmhouses to restored châteaux (BYO soap, shampoo, etc.). Sheets or linens may be included or provided for a bit extra. Like hotels, all gîtes are rated for comfort from one to four épis (ears of corn). Two or three épis generally indicate sufficient quality, but I’d look for three for more comfort. Prices generally range from €500 to €1,500 per week, depending on house size and amenities such as pools. Some owners may not speak English, so be prepared to do business in French.
For more information on gîtes, visit www.gites-de-france.com (with the most rentals) or www.gite.com. Also check sites like Airbnb and HomeAway/VRBO (see below).
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no hotel reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Aggregator websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. If you prefer to work from a curated list of accommodations, consider using a rental agency such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com. Agency-represented apartments typically cost more, but this method often offers more help and safeguards than booking direct.
To find a place, try the resources listed above, or one of these: France Homestyle, run by Claudette, a service-oriented French woman from Seattle who handpicks every home and apartment she lists (US tel. 206/325-0132, www.francehomestyle.com, info@francehomestyle.com), or Ville et Village, which has a bigger selection of higher-end places (US tel. 510/559-8080, www.villeetvillage.com). For a list of rental agencies in Paris, see here.
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using the Street View feature on Google Maps. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well-connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? There are typically two kinds of hosts: those who want minimal interaction with their guests, and hosts who are friendly and may want to interact with you. Read the promotional text and online reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip. It’s easiest and safest to pay through the site where you found the listing. Be wary of owners who want to conduct your transaction offline to avoid fees; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying somewhere for four or more nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or house (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment and house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry machines and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
With a good mix of big-city excitement and rural fun, France appeals to kids of all ages. Both of this book’s authors have kids, and we’ve used our substantial experience traveling with them to improve our advice. Our kids’ favorite places have been Mont St-Michel, the Alps, Loire châteaux, Carcassonne, and Paris (especially the Eiffel Tower and Seine River boat ride)—and any hotel with a pool. Here are some tips for traveling with kids in France:
• Minimize hotel changes by planning three-day stops. Aim for hotels with restaurants, so older kids can go back to the room while you finish a pleasant dinner. Most hotels have some sort of crib you can use. If you’re staying for a week or more in one place, one great option is to rent an apartment or gîte (see here).
• Car-rental agencies usually rent car seats, though you must reserve one in advance. According to French law, kids under 10 must be in a car seat in the back seat.
• Choose items that are small and convenient for use on planes, trains, and in your hotel room, such as compact travel games, a deck of cards, or a tablet. Bring your own drawing paper, pens, and crayons (expensive in France).
• For longer drives, audio books can be fun for the whole family. I recommend Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, but searching “France for kids” will yield many results.
• Older kids can stay in touch with friends at home with Wi-Fi texting apps. Wi-Fi hotspots are a godsend (at hotels, many cafés and TIs, and all Starbucks and McDonald’s). Most parents find it worth the peace of mind to buy a supplemental international plan for the whole family: Adults can stay connected to teenagers while allowing them maximum independence (see here).
• Eat dinner early (19:00-19:30 at restaurants, earlier at cafés). Skip romantic eateries. Try relaxed cafés (or fast-food restaurants) where kids can move around without bothering others.
• Kid-friendly foods that are commonly available and easy to order include crêpes (available at takeout stands), croque monsieurs (grilled ham-and-cheese sandwiches), and tartines (open-faced sandwiches). Plain pasta is available at many cafés and some bistros (ask for pâtes nature). For breakfast, try a pain au chocolat (chocolate-filled pastry) or dip your baguette in a chocolat chaud (hot chocolate). Fruit, cereals, and yogurt are usually available. Carry a baguette to snack on. In the south of France, pizza is omnipresent.
• If your kids love peanut butter, bring it from home (it’s hard to find in France)...or help them acquire a taste for Nutella, the tasty hazelnut-chocolate spread available everywhere. Look for organic (bio) stores, where you can find numerous nut butters and Chocolade, a less-sugary version of Nutella.
• Picnics work well. Boulangeries are good places to grab off-hour snacks when restaurants aren’t serving. (See here for picnic tips.)
• For older kids, be aware that the drinking age is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for the hard stuff: Your waiter will assume that your teen will have wine with you at dinner. Teens are also welcome in most bars and lounges (there’s no 21-and-older section).
• To make your trip fun for everyone in the family, mix heavy-duty sights with kids’ activities, such as playing minigolf or boules, renting bikes or canoes, and riding the little tourist trains popular in many towns.
• I’ve listed public pools in many places (especially the south), but be warned: Public pools in France commonly require a small, Speedo-like bathing suit for boys and men (American-style swim trunks won’t do)—though they usually have these little suits to loan. At hotel pools, either kind of suit will do.
• For memories that will last long after the trip, keep a family journal. Pack a diary and a glue stick. While relaxing at a café over a citron-pressé (lemonade), take turns writing down the day’s events, and include mementos such as ticket stubs from museums, postcards, or stalks of lavender.
• Famous for topless tanning, French women are equally comfortable with public breastfeeding—no need for cover-ups here. Changing tables are nonexistent, so bring a roll-up changing mat and get comfortable changing your baby on your knees, on a bench, or wherever you find enough space.
• French grandmothers take their role seriously and won’t hesitate to recommend that you put more sunscreen on your child in the summer, or add a layer of clothing if it’s breezy.
• Rather than saying bonjour to French children, say coucou (coo-coo) if they are young and salut (sal-oo) if they are preteens or older.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. Some places allow you to book for a single night; if staying for several nights, you can buy groceries just as you would in a rental house. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some may be interested in getting to know the travelers who come through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). A good place to start is HomeExchange. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
These are a fun option in canalside towns; I’ve listed a few in this book. If you’re interested in renting one for more than a night or two, try Papillon Barge (www.burgundycanalvacations.com), French Country Waterways (www.fcwl.com), or the cheaper bed-and-breakfast Barge Nilaya (May-Sept mobile 06 89 18 80 67, Oct-April UK mobile—from the US dial 011-44-7909-151-611, www.bargenilaya.com). For a comprehensive source on enjoying the rivers and canals of France, check www.french-waterways.com.
A hostel (auberge de jeunesse) provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €35 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay a bit more per night.
Hip Hop Hostels is a clearinghouse for budget hotels and hostels in Paris. It’s worth a look for its good selection of cheap accommodations (tel. 01 48 78 10 00, www.hiphophostels.com).
In Europe, camping is more of a social than an environmental experience. It’s a great way for American travelers to make European friends. Campsites average about €25 per night, and almost every destination recommended in this book has a campground within a reasonable walk or bus ride from the town center and train station. A tent, pillow, and sleeping bag are all you need. Some campgrounds have small grocery stores and washing machines, and some even come with cafés and miniature golf. Local TIs have camping information. You’ll find more detailed information in the annually updated Michelin Camping France, available in the United States and at most French bookstores.
The French eat long and well. Relaxed and tree-shaded lunches with a chilled rosé, three-hour dinners, and endless hours of sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Here, celebrated restaurateurs are as famous as great athletes, and mamas hope their babies will grow up to be great chefs. Cafés, cuisine, and wines should become a highlight of any French adventure: It’s sightseeing for your palate. Even if the rest of you is sleeping in a cheap hotel, let your taste buds travel first-class in France.
You can eat well without going broke—but choose carefully: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a mediocre meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €20. Read the information that follows and consider my restaurant suggestions in this book.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
In Paris, restaurant lunches are a great value, as most places offer the same quality and similar selections for far less than at dinner. If you’re on a budget or just like going local, try making lunch your main meal, then have a lighter evening meal at a café.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, bakeries selling sandwiches, and so on. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a good taste of local cuisine.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, elaborate cuisine, and an expansive (and expensive) wine list.
Most hotels serve an optional breakfast, which is usually pleasant and convenient (generally €10-20, price rises proportionately with room cost). They almost all offer a buffet breakfast (cereal, yogurt, fruit, cheese, ham, croissants, juice, and hard-boiled eggs). Some add scrambled eggs and sausage. Before committing to breakfast, check to see if it’s included in your room rate; if not, scan the offerings to be sure it’s to your liking. Once committed, it’s self-service and as much as you want. Coffee is often self-serve from a machine or a thermos. If there’s no coffee machine and you want to make your own café au lait, find the hot milk and mix it with your coffee. If your hotelier serves your coffee, ask for café avec du lait. For your basic American-style coffee (black and not too strong), ask for café Americain.
Breakfast is a great time to try the country’s delightful array of breads, pastries, and pies. Many hotels and B&Bs take pride in serving these extremely fresh—often with a different selection each day.
If all you want is coffee or tea and a croissant, the corner café or bakery offers more atmosphere and is less expensive (though you get more coffee at your hotel). Go local at a café and ask for une tartine (ewn tart-een), a baguette slathered with butter or jam. If you crave eggs for breakfast, order une omelette or œufs sur le plat (fried eggs). Some cafés and bakeries offer worthwhile breakfast deals with juice, croissant, and coffee or tea for about €8-12 (for more on coffee and tea drinks, see the “Beverages” section, later).
To keep it cheap, pick up some fruit at a grocery store and pastries at your favorite boulangerie and have a picnic breakfast, then savor your coffee at a café bar (comptoir) while standing, like the French do.
Whether going all out on a perfect French picnic or simply grabbing a sandwich to eat on an atmospheric square, dining with the town as your backdrop can be one of your most memorable meals.
Great for lunch or dinner, French picnics can be first-class affairs and adventures in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the smelly cheeses, ugly pâtés, prissy quiches, and minuscule yogurts. Shopkeepers are accustomed to selling small quantities of produce. Get a succulent salad to go, and ask for a plastic fork. If you need a knife or corkscrew, borrow one from your hotelier (but don’t picnic in your room, as French hoteliers uniformly detest this). Though drinking wine in public places is taboo in the US, it’s pas de problème in France. Plastic bags are not available at markets in France; you’ll need your own bag (cheap at stores) or daypack for carrying items.
Assembling a Picnic: Visit several small stores to put together a complete meal. Shop early, as many shops close from 12:00 or 13:00 to 15:00 for their lunch break. Say “Bonjour madame/monsieur” as you enter, then point to what you want and say, “S’il vous plaît.” For other terminology you might need while shopping, see the sidebar.
At the boulangerie (bakery), buy some bread. A baguette usually does the trick, or choose from the many loaves of bread on display: pain aux céréales (whole grain with seeds), pain de campagne (country bread, made with unbleached bread flour), pain complet (wheat bread), or pain de seigle (rye bread). To ask for it sliced, say “Tranché, s’il vous plaît.”
At the pâtisserie (pastry shop, which is often the same place you bought the bread), choose a dessert that’s easy to eat with your hands. My favorites are éclairs (chocolat or café flavored), individual fruit tartes (framboise is raspberry, fraise is strawberry, citron is lemon), and macarons (made of flavored cream sandwiched between two meringues, not coconut cookies like in the US).
At the crémerie or fromagerie (cheese shop), choose a sampling of cheeses (un assortiment). I usually get one hard cheese (like Comté, Cantal, or Beaufort), one soft cow’s milk cheese (like Brie or Camembert), one goat’s milk cheese (anything that says chèvre), and one blue cheese (Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne). Goat cheese usually comes in individual portions. For all other large cheeses, point to the cheese you want and ask for une petite tranche (a small slice). The shopkeeper will show you the size of the slice about to be cut, then look at you for approval. If you’d like more, say, “Plus.” If you’d like less, say “Moins.” If it’s just right, say “C’est bon!”
At the charcuterie or traiteur (for deli items, prepared salads, meats, and pâtés), I like a slice of pâté de campagne (country pâté made of pork) and saucissons secs (dried sausages, some with pepper crust or garlic—you can ask to have it sliced thin like salami). I get a fresh salad, too. Typical options are carottes râpées (shredded carrots in a tangy vinaigrette), salade de betteraves (beets in vinaigrette), and céleri rémoulade (celery root with a mayonnaise sauce). The food comes in takeout boxes, and they may supply a plastic fork.
At a cave à vin you can buy chilled wines that the merchant is usually happy to open and recork for you.
At a supermarché, épicerie, or magasin d’alimentation (small grocery store or minimart), you’ll find plastic cutlery and glasses, paper plates, napkins, drinks, chips, and a display of produce. Supermarchés are less colorful than smaller stores, but cheaper, more efficient, and offer adequate quality. Department stores often have supermarkets in the basement. On the outskirts of cities, you’ll find the monster hypermarchés. Drop in for a glimpse of hyper-France in action.
The best shopping option is to visit open-air markets (marchés), which are fun and photogenic, but shut down around 13:00 (many are listed in this book; local TIs have complete lists). There’s more information about these wonderful experiences in the “Market Day” sidebar, later.
You’ll find plenty of to-go options at crêperies, bakeries, and small stands. Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and pizza-like items are tasty, filling, and budget-friendly (about €5).
Sandwiches: Anything served à la provençale has marinated peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant. A sandwich à l’italienne is a grilled panini (usually referred to as pannini). Here are some common sandwiches:
Fromage (froh-mahzh): Cheese (white on beige)
Jambon beurre (zhahn-bohn bur): Ham and butter (boring for most but a French classic)
Jambon crudités (zhahn-bohn krew-dee-tay): Ham with tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and mayonnaise
Fougasse (foo-gahs): Bread rolled up with salty bits of bacon, cheese, or olives
Poulet crudités (poo-lay krew-dee-tay): Chicken with tomatoes, lettuce, maybe cucumbers, and always mayonnaise
Saucisson beurre (saw-see-sohn bur): Thinly sliced sausage and butter
Thon crudités (tohn krew-dee-tay): Tuna with tomatoes, lettuce, and maybe cucumbers, but definitely mayonnaise
Quiche: Typical quiches you’ll see at shops and bakeries are lorraine (ham and cheese), fromage (cheese only), aux oignons (with onions), aux poireaux (with leeks—my favorite), aux champignons (with mushrooms), au saumon (salmon), or au thon (tuna).
Crêpes: The quintessentially French thin pancake called a crêpe (rhymes with “step,” not “grape”) is filling, usually inexpensive, and generally quick. Place your order at the crêperie window or kiosk, and watch the chef in action. But don’t be surprised if they don’t make the crêpe for you from scratch; at some crêperies, they might premake a stack of crêpes and reheat them when they fill your order.
Market day (jour de marché) is a big deal throughout France. They have been a central feature of life in rural areas since the Middle Ages. No single event better symbolizes the French preoccupation with fresh products—and their strong ties to the soil—than the weekly market. Many locals mark their calendars with the arrival of fresh produce.
Markets (marchés) combine products from area farmers and artisans, and offer a mind-boggling array of choices, from the perishable (produce, meats, cheeses, breads, and pastries) to the nonperishable (kitchen wares, inexpensive clothing, brightly colored linens, and pottery). Les marchés brocantes specialize in quasi-antiques and flea-market bric-a-brac (think rummage sale). Many marchés have good selections of produce and some brocantes.
Notice the signs as you enter towns indicating the jours du marché (essential information to any civilized soul, and a reminder not to park on the streets the night before—be on the lookout for stationnement interdit signs that mark “no parking” areas). Most marchés take place once a week in the town’s main square; larger marchés spill into nearby streets.
Usually, the bigger the market, the greater the overall selection—particularly of nonperishable goods. Bigger towns (such as Beaune and Arles) may have two weekly markets. The biggest market days are usually on weekends, so that everyone can go.
Market day is as important socially as it is commercially—it’s a weekly chance for locals to resume friendships and get the current gossip. Here neighbors can catch up on Henri’s barn renovation, see photos of Jacqueline’s new grandchild, and relax over un café. Dogs are tethered to café tables while friends exchange kisses. Tether yourself to a table and observe: three cheek-kisses for good friends (left-right-left), a fourth for friends you haven’t seen in a while. (The appropriate number of kisses varies by region—Paris, Lyon, and Provence have different standards.) It’s bad form to be in a hurry on market day. Allow the crowd to set your pace.
It’s a joy to assemble picnics at an open-air market. Most perishable items are sold directly from the producers—no middlemen, no credit cards, just really fresh produce (du pays means “grown locally”). Sometimes you’ll meet a widow selling a dozen eggs, two rabbits, and a wad of herbs tied with string. But most vendors follow a weekly circuit of markets they feel works best for them, showing up in the same spot every week, year in and year out. Notice how much fun they have chatting up their customers and one another. Many vendors speak enough English to assist you in your selection. Markets usually end by 13:00—in time for lunch, allowing the town to reclaim its streets and squares.
Crêpes generally are sucrée (sweet) or salée (savory). Technically, a savory crêpe should be made with a heartier buckwheat batter, and is called a galette. However, many cheap and lazy crêperies use the same sweet batter (de froment) for both their sweet-topped and savory-topped crêpes. A socca is a chickpea crêpe.
Standard crêpe toppings include cheese (fromage; usually Swiss-style Gruyère or Emmental), ham (jambon), egg (œuf), mushrooms (champignons), chocolate, Nutella, jam (confiture), whipped cream (chantilly), apple jam (compote de pommes), chestnut cream (crème de marrons), and Grand Marnier.
To get the most out of dining out in France, slow down. Give yourself time to dine at a French pace, engage the waiter, show you care about food, and enjoy the experience as much as the food itself.
French waiters probably won’t overwhelm you with friendliness. As their tip is already included in the bill (see “Tipping,” later), there’s less schmoozing than we’re used to at home. Notice how hard they work. They almost never stop. Cozying up to clients (French or foreign) is probably the last thing on their minds. They’re often stuck with client overload, too, because the French rarely hire part-time employees, even to help with peak times. To get a waiter’s attention, try to make meaningful eye contact, which is a signal that you need something. If this doesn’t work, raise your hand and simply say, “S’il vous plaît” (see voo play)—“please.”
This phrase also works when you want to ask for the check. In French eateries, a waiter will rarely bring you the check unless you request it. Having the bill dropped off before asking for it is très gauche (even rude!) to the French. But busy travelers are often ready for the check sooner rather than later. If you’re in a hurry, ask for the bill when your server comes to clear your plates or checks in to see if you want dessert or coffee. To request your bill, say, “L’addition, s’il vous plaît.” If you don’t ask now, the wait staff may become scarce as they leave you to digest in peace. (For a list of other restaurant survival phrases, see the appendix.)
Note that all café and restaurant interiors are smoke-free. Today the only smokers you’ll find are at outside tables, which—unfortunately—may be exactly where you want to sit.
Tipping: At cafés and restaurants, a 12-15 percent service charge is always included in the price of what you order (service compris or prix net), but you won’t see it listed on your bill. Unlike in the US, France pays servers a decent wage (a favorite café owner told me that his waiters earn far more than some high school teachers). Because of this, most locals only tip a little, or not at all. When dining, expect reasonable, efficient service. If you don’t get it, skip the tip. If you feel the service was good, tip a little—about 5 percent; maybe 10 percent for terrific service. To tell the waiter to keep the change when you pay, say “C’est bon” (say bohn), meaning “It’s good.” If you are using a credit card, leave your tip in cash—credit-card receipts don’t even have space to add a tip. Never feel guilty if you don’t leave a tip.
French cafés and brasseries provide user-friendly meals and a relief from sightseeing overload. They’re not necessarily cheaper than many restaurants and bistros, and famous cafés on popular squares can be pricey affairs. Their key advantage is flexibility: They offer long serving hours, and you’re welcome to order just a salad, a sandwich, or a bowl of soup, even for dinner. It’s also OK to share starters and desserts, though not main courses.
Cafés and brasseries usually open by 7:00, but closing hours vary. Unlike some restaurants, which open only for dinner and sometimes for lunch, many cafés and all brasseries serve food throughout the day (usually with a limited menu during off hours), making them the best option for a late lunch or an early dinner. Service Continu or Service Non-Stop signs indicate continued service throughout the day. Small-town cafés often close their kitchens from about 14:00 until 18:00.
Check the price list first, which by law should be posted prominently (though I see fewer posted every year). There are two sets of prices: You’ll pay more for the same drink if you’re seated at a table (salle) than if you’re seated or standing at the bar or counter (comptoir). (For tips on ordering coffee and tea, see the “Beverages” section, later.)
At a café or a brasserie, if the table is not set, it’s fine to seat yourself and just have a drink. However, if it’s set with a placemat and cutlery, you should ask to be seated and plan to order a meal. If you’re unsure, ask the server before sitting down.
Ordering: A salad, crêpe, quiche, or omelet is a fairly cheap way to fill up. Each can be made with various extras such as ham, cheese, mushrooms, and so on. Omelets come lonely on a plate with a basket of bread.
Sandwiches, generally served day and night, are inexpensive, but most are very plain (boulangeries serve better ones). To get more than a piece of ham (jambon) on a baguette, order a sandwich jambon crudités (garnished with veggies). Popular sandwiches are the croque monsieur (grilled ham-and-cheese) and croque madame (monsieur with a fried egg on top).
Salads are typically meal size and often can be ordered with warm ingredients mixed in, such as melted goat cheese, fried gizzards, or roasted potatoes. One salad is perfect for lunch or a light dinner. See the “French Cuisine” section later for a list of classic salads.
The daily special—plat du jour (plah dew zhoor), or just plat—is your fast, hearty, and garnished hot plate for about €14-22. At most cafés, feel free to order only entrées (which in French means the starter course); many people find these lighter and more interesting than a main course. A vegetarian can enjoy a tasty, filling meal by ordering two entrées.
Regardless of what you order, bread is free but almost never comes with butter; to get more bread, just hold up your basket and ask, “Encore, s’il vous plaît?”
Choose restaurants filled with locals. Consider my suggestions and your hotelier’s opinion, but trust your instincts. If a restaurant doesn’t post its prices outside, move along.
Restaurants open for dinner around 19:00 and are most crowded about 20:00 (21:00 in cities). The early bird gets the table. Last seating is usually about 21:00 (22:00 in cities and on the French Riviera; possibly later in Paris).
Tune into the quiet, relaxed pace of French dining. The French don’t do dinner and a movie on date nights; they just do dinner. The table is yours for the night. Notice how quietly French diners speak in restaurants and how few mobile phones you see during a meal, and how this improves your overall experience. Go local.
Ordering: In French restaurants, you can choose something off the menu (called the carte), or you can order a multicourse, fixed-price meal (confusingly, called a menu). Or, if offered, you can get one of the special dishes of the day (plat du jour). If you ask for un menu (instead of la carte), you’ll get a fixed-price meal.
Ordering à la carte gives you the best selection. I enjoy going à la carte especially when traveling with others and eating family style (waiters are usually happy to accommodate this approach and will bring small extra plates). It’s traditional to order an entrée (a starter—not a main dish) and a plat principal (main course), though it’s becoming common to order only a plat principal. Plats are generally more meat-based, while entrées usually include veggies. Multiple-course meals, while time-consuming (a positive thing in France), create the appropriate balance of veggies to meat. Elaborate meals may also have entremets—tiny dishes served between courses. Wherever you dine, consider the waiter’s recommendations and anything de la maison (of the house), as long as it’s not an organ meat (tripe, rognons, or andouillette).
Two people can split an entrée or a big salad (small-size dinner salads are usually not offered á la carte) and then each get a plat principal. At restaurants, it’s inappropriate for two diners to share one main course. If all you want is a salad or soup, go to a café or brasserie.
Fixed-price menus—which usually include two, three, or four courses—are always a better deal than eating à la carte, providing you want several courses. At most restaurants offering fixed-price menus, the price for a two- or three-course menu is only slightly higher than a single main course from the à la carte list (though the main course is usually larger than the one you get with the fixed-price menu). With a three-course menu you’ll choose a starter of soup, appetizer, or salad; select from three or four main courses with vegetables; and finish up with a cheese course and/or a choice of desserts. It sounds like a lot of food, but portions are a bit smaller with fixed-price menus, and what we cram onto one large plate they spread out over several courses. If you’re dining with a friend, one person can get the full menu while the other can order just a plat (and share the menu courses). Also, many restaurants offer less expensive and less filling two-course menus, sometimes called formules, featuring an entrée et plat, or plat et dessert. Many restaurants have a reasonable menu-enfant (kid’s meal).
Wine and other drinks are extra, and certain premium items add a few euros, clearly noted on the menu (supplément or sup.).
Lunch: If a restaurant serves lunch, it generally begins at 12:00 and goes until 14:00, with last orders taken at about 13:30. If you’re hungry when restaurants are closed (late afternoon), go to a boulangerie, brasserie, or café (see previous section), or find a grocery store. Even fancy places usually have affordable lunch menus (often called formules or plat de midi), allowing you to sample the same gourmet cooking for a lot less than the price of dinner.
In the south, I usually order une entrée and un plat from la carte (often as a two-course menu or formule), then find an ice-cream or crêpe stand and take a dessert stroll. If that sounds like too much, just order un plat (but don’t skip the dessert stroll!).
Restaurants are almost always a better value in the countryside than in Paris. If you’re driving, look for red-and-blue Relais Routier decals on main roads outside cities, indicating that the place is recommended by the truckers’ union. These truck-stop cafés offer inexpensive and hearty fare.
Most restaurants serve dishes from several regions, though some focus on a particular region’s cuisine. Among the listings in this book are restaurants specializing in food from Provence, Burgundy, Alsace, Normandy, Brittany, Dordogne, Languedoc, and the Basque region.
General styles of French cooking include cuisine gastronomique (classic, elaborately prepared, multicourse meals); cuisine semi-gastronomique or bistronomie (the finest-quality home cooking); cuisine des provinces (traditional dishes of specific regions); and nouvelle cuisine (a focus on smaller portions and closer attention to the texture and color of the ingredients). Sauces are a huge part of French cooking. In the early 20th century, the legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier identified five French “mother sauces” from which all others are derived: béchamel (milk-based white sauce), espagnole (veal-based brown sauce), velouté (stock-based white sauce), hollandaise (egg yolk-based white sauce), and tomate (tomato-based red sauce).
The following list of items should help you navigate a typical French menu. Galloping gourmets should bring a menu translator. The most complete (and priciest) menu reader around is A to Z of French Food by G. de Temmerman (look for the cheaper app). The Marling Menu-Master is also good. The Rick Steves French Phrase Book & Dictionary, with a menu decoder, works well for most travelers. For dishes specific to each region, see the “Cuisine Scene” sections throughout this book.
If you’re interested in learning to cook French cuisine (not just eat it), look for my listings of food tours and cooking classes or check out L’Atelier des Chefs, a network of cooking schools located in many cities throughout France, with top classes at good rates (from €17, www.atelierdeschefs.fr).
Crudités: A mix of raw and lightly cooked fresh vegetables, usually including grated carrots, celery root, tomatoes, and beets, often with a hefty dose of vinaigrette dressing. If you want the dressing on the side, say, “La sauce à côté, s’il vous plaît” (lah sohs ah koh-tay, see voo play).
Escargots: Snails cooked in parsley-garlic butter. You don’t even have to like the snail itself. Just dipping your bread in garlic butter is more than satisfying. Prepared a variety of ways, the classic is à la bourguignonne (served in their shells).
Foie gras: Rich and buttery in consistency—and hefty in price—this pâté is made from the swollen livers of force-fed geese (or ducks, in foie gras de canard). Put small chunks on bread—don’t spread it, and never add mustard. For a real French experience, try this dish with a sweet white wine (such as a Muscat).
Huîtres: Oysters, served raw any month, are particularly popular at Christmas and on New Year’s Eve, when every café seems to have overflowing baskets in their window.
Œuf mayo: A simple hard-boiled egg topped with a dollop of flavorful mayonnaise.
Pâtés and terrines: Slowly cooked ground meat (usually pork, though game, poultry liver, and rabbit are also common) that is highly seasoned and served in slices with mustard and cornichons (little pickles). Pâtés are smoother than the similarly prepared but chunkier terrines.
Soupe à l’oignon: Hot, salty, filling—and hard to find in Paris—French onion soup is a beef broth served with a baked cheese-and-bread crust over the top.
With the exception of a salade mixte (simple green salad, often difficult to find), the French get creative with their salades. Here are some classics:
Salade de chèvre chaud: This mixed-green salad is topped with warm goat cheese on small pieces of toast.
Salade de gésiers: Though it may not sound appetizing, this salad with chicken gizzards (and often slices of duck) is worth a try.
Salade composée: “Composed” of any number of ingredients, this salad might have lardons (bacon), Comté (a Swiss-style cheese), Roquefort (blue cheese), œuf (egg), noix (walnuts), and jambon (ham, generally thinly sliced).
Salade gourmande: The “gourmet” salad varies by region and restaurant but usually features cured and poached meats served on salad greens with a mustard vinaigrette.
Salade niçoise: A specialty from Nice, this tasty salad usually includes greens topped with ripe tomatoes, raw vegetables (such as radishes, green peppers, celery, and perhaps artichoke or fava beans), tuna (usually canned), anchovy, hard-boiled egg, and olives.
Salade paysanne: You’ll usually find potatoes (pommes de terre), walnuts (noix), tomatoes, ham, and egg in this salad.
Duck, lamb, and rabbit are popular in France, and each is prepared in a variety of ways. You’ll also encounter various stew-like dishes that vary by region. The most common regional specialties are described here.
Bœuf bourguignon: A Burgundian specialty, this classy beef stew is cooked slowly in red wine, then served with onions, potatoes, and mushrooms.
Cabillaud: Cod is France’s favorite fish, and you’ll find it on French menus. It’s cooked in many ways that vary by region, but most commonly with butter, white wine, and herbs.
Confit de canard: A favorite from the southwest Dordogne region is duck that has been preserved in its own fat, then cooked in its fat, and often served with potatoes (cooked in the same fat). Not for dieters. (Note that magret de canard is sliced duck breast and very different in taste.)
Coq au vin: This Burgundian dish is rooster marinated ever so slowly in red wine, then cooked until it melts in your mouth. It’s served (often family-style) with vegetables.
Daube: Generally made with beef, but sometimes lamb, this is a long and slowly simmered dish, typically paired with noodles or other pasta.
Escalope normande: This specialty of Normandy features turkey or veal in a cream sauce.
Gigot d’agneau: A specialty of Provence, this is a leg of lamb often grilled and served with white beans. The best lamb is pré salé, which means the lamb has been raised in salt-marsh lands (like at Mont St-Michel).
Le hamburger: This American import is all the rage in France. Cafés and restaurants serve it using local sauces, breads, and cheeses. It’s fun to see their interpretation of our classic dish.
Poulet rôti: Roasted chicken on the bone—French comfort food.
Saumon and truite: You’ll see salmon and trout (truite) dishes served in various styles. The salmon usually comes from the North Sea and is always served with sauce, most commonly a sorrel (oseille) sauce.
Steak: Referred to as pavé (thick hunk of prime steak), bavette (skirt steak), faux filet (sirloin), or entrecôte (rib steak), French steak is usually thinner and tougher than American steak and is always served with sauces (au poivre is a pepper sauce, une sauce roquefort is a blue-cheese sauce). Because steak is usually better in North America, I generally avoid it in France (unless the sauce sounds good). You will also see steak haché, which is a lean, gourmet hamburger patty served sans bun. When it’s served as steak haché à cheval, it comes with a fried egg on top.
By American standards, the French undercook meats: Their version of rare, saignant (seh-nyahn), means “bloody” and is close to raw. What they consider medium, à point (ah pwan), is what an American would call rare. Their term for well-done, or bien cuit (bee-yehn kwee), would translate as medium for Americans (and overdone for the French).
Steak tartare: This wonderfully French dish is for adventurous types only. It’s very lean, raw hamburger served with savory seasonings (usually Tabasco, capers, raw onions, salt, and pepper on the side) and topped with a raw egg yolk. This is not hamburger as we know it, but freshly ground beef.
The cheese course is served just before (or instead of) dessert. It not only helps with digestion, it gives you a great opportunity to sample the tasty regional cheeses—and time to finish up your wine. Between cow, goat, and sheep cheeses, there are more than 350 different ones to try in France. Some restaurants will offer a cheese platter (plateau de fromages), from which you select a few different kinds. A good platter has at least four cheeses: a hard cheese (such as Cantal), a flowery cheese (such as Brie or Camembert), a blue or Roquefort cheese, and a goat cheese.
To sample several types of cheese from the cheese plate, say, “Un assortiment, s’il vous plaît” (uhn ah-sor-tee-mahn, see voo play). You’ll either be served a selection of several cheeses or choose from a large selection offered on a cheese tray. If you serve yourself from the cheese tray, observe French etiquette and keep the shape of the cheese: Shave off a slice from the side or cut small wedges.
A glass of good red wine is a heavenly complement to your cheese course. With three-course menus, the last course is usually a choice between “fromage” or “dessert.”
If you order espresso, it will always come after dessert. To have coffee with dessert, ask for “café avec le dessert” (kah-fay ah-vehk luh day-sayr). See the list of coffee terms next. Here are the types of treats you’ll see:
Baba au rhum: Pound cake drenched in rum, served with whipped cream.
Café gourmand: An assortment of small desserts selected by the restaurant, served with an espresso—a great way to sample several desserts.
Crème brûlée: A rich, creamy, dense, caramelized custard.
Crème caramel: Flan in a caramel sauce.
Fondant au chocolat: A molten chocolate cake with a runny (not totally cooked) center. Also known as moelleux (meh-leh) au chocolat.
Fromage blanc: A light dessert similar to plain yogurt (yet different), served with sugar or herbs.
Glace: Ice cream—typically vanilla, chocolate, or strawberry.
Ile flottante: A light dessert consisting of islands of meringue floating on a pond of custard sauce.
Mousse au chocolat: Chocolate mousse.
Profiteroles: Cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, smothered in warm chocolate sauce.
Riz au lait: Rice pudding.
Sorbets: Light, flavorful, and fruity ices, sometimes laced with brandy.
Tartes: Open-face pie, often filled with fruit.
Tarte tatin: Apple pie like grandma never made, with caramelized apples, cooked upside down, but served upright.
France is peppered with wineries and wine-tasting opportunities. For some, trying to make sense of the vast range of French wines can be overwhelming, particularly when faced with a no-nonsense winemaker or sommelier. Do your best to follow my tips, and don’t linger if you don’t feel welcome.
Visit several private wineries or stop by a cave coopérative or a caveau to taste wines from a number of local vintners in a single, less intimidating setting. (Throughout this book, I’ve tried to identify which vineyards are most accepting of wine novices.) At wineries, you’ll have a better experience if you call ahead to let them know you’re coming (even if it’s open all day; ask your hotelier for help). Avoid visiting places between noon and 14:00: Many wineries close midday, and those that don’t are staffed by people who would rather be at lunch.
Winemakers and sommeliers are usually happy to work with you...especially if they can figure out what you want. It helps to know what you like (drier or sweeter, lighter or full-bodied, fruity or more tannic, and so on). The people serving you may know those words in English, but you’re wise to learn the key words in French (see the “French Wine Lingo” section).
French wines usually have a lower alcohol level than American or Australian wines. While Americans commonly like a big, full-bodied wine, most French prefer subtler flavors. They judge a wine by how well it pairs with a meal—and a big, oaky wine would overwhelm most French cuisine. The French enjoy sampling younger wines and divining how they will taste in a few years, allowing them to buy bottles at cheaper prices and stash them in their cellars. Americans want it now—for today’s picnic.
At tastings, vintners and wine shops are hoping you’ll buy a bottle or two (otherwise you may be asked to pay a small tasting fee). They understand that North Americans can’t take much wine with them, but they do hope you’ll look for their wines when you’re back home. Some places will ship wine—ask.
Here are some phrases to get you started when wine-tasting:
Hello, madam/sir.
Bonjour, madame/monsieur.
(bohn-zhoor, mah-dahm/muhs-yuh)
We would like to taste a few wines.
Nous voudrions déguster quelques vins.
(noo voo-dree-ohn day-gew-stay kehl-kuh van)
We would like a wine that is ____ and ____.
Nous voudrions un vin ____ et ____.
(noo voo-dree-ohn uhn van ____ ay ____)
Fill in the blanks with your favorites from this list:
| English | French |
| red | rouge (roozh) |
| white | blanc (blahn) |
| rosé | rosé (roh-zay) |
| light | léger (lay-zhay) |
| full-bodied | robuste (roh-bewst) |
| fruity | fruité (frwee-tay) |
| sweet | doux (doo) |
| tannic | tannique (tah-neek) |
| fine | fin, avec finesse (fan, ah-vehk fee-nehs) |
| ready to drink (mature) | prêt à boire (preh tah bwar) |
| not ready to drink | fermé (fair-may) |
| oaky or woody | boisé (bwah-zay) |
| from old vines | de vieilles vignes (duh vee-yay-ee veen-yuh) |
| sparkling | pétillant (pay-tee-yahn) |
In stores, unrefrigerated soft drinks, bottled water, and beer are one-third the price of cold drinks. Bottled water and boxed fruit juice are the cheapest drinks. Avoid buying drinks to-go at streetside stands; you’ll pay far less in a shop.
In bars and at eateries, be clear when ordering drinks—you can easily pay €10 for an oversized Coke and €15 for a supersized beer at some cafés. When you order a drink, state the size in centiliters (don’t say “small,” “medium,” or “large,” because the waiter might bring a bigger drink than you want). For something small, ask for 25 centilitres (vant-sank sahn-tee-lee-truh; about 8 ounces); for a medium drink, order 33 cl (trahnte-twah; about 12 ounces—a normal can of soda); a large is 50 cl (san-kahnt; about 16 ounces); and a super-size is one liter (lee-truh; about a quart—which is more than I would ever order in France). The ice cubes melted after the last Yankee tour group left.
The French are willing to pay for bottled water with their meal (eau minérale; oh mee-nay-rahl) because they prefer the taste over tap water. Badoit is my favorite carbonated water (l’eau gazeuse; loh gah-zuhz) and is commonly available. To get a free pitcher of tap water, ask for une carafe d’eau (ewn kah-rahf doh). Otherwise, you may unwittingly buy bottled water.
In France limonade (lee-moh-nahd) is Sprite or 7-Up. For a fun, bright, nonalcoholic drink of 7-Up with mint syrup, order un diabolo menthe (uhn dee-ah-boh-loh mahnt). For 7-Up with fruit syrup, order un diabolo grenadine (think Shirley Temple). Kids love the local orange drink, Orangina, a carbonated orange juice with pulp (though it can be pricey). They also like sirop à l’eau (see-roh ah loh), flavored syrup mixed with carbonated water.
For keeping hydrated on the go, hang on to the half-liter mineral-water bottles (sold in grocery stores for about €1-2) and refill. Buy juice in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle. Of course, water quenches your thirst better and cheaper than anything you’ll find in a store or café. I drink tap water throughout France, filling up my bottle in hotel rooms.
The French define various types of espresso drinks by how much milk is added. To the French, milk is a delicate form of nutrition: You need it in the morning, but as the day goes on, too much can upset your digestion. Therefore, the amount of milk that’s added to coffee decreases as the day goes on. The average French person thinks a café au lait is exclusively for breakfast, and a café crème is only appropriate through midday. You’re welcome to order a milkier coffee drink later in the day, but don’t be surprised if you get a funny look.
By law, a waiter must give you a glass of tap water with your coffee or tea if you request it; ask for “un verre d’eau, s’il vous plaît” (uhn vayr doh, see voo play).
Here are some common coffee and tea drinks:
Café (kah-fay): Shot of espresso
Café allongé, a.k.a. café long (kah-fay ah-lohn-zhay; kah-fay lohn): Espresso topped up with hot water—like an Americano
Noisette (nwah-zeht): Espresso with a dollop of milk (best value for adding milk to your coffee)
Café au lait (kah-fay oh lay): Espresso mixed with lots of warm milk (used mostly for coffee made at home; in a café, order café crème)
Café crème (kah-fay krehm): Espresso with a sizable pour of steamed milk (closest thing you’ll get to an American-style latte)
Grand crème (grahn krehm): Double shot of espresso with a bit more steamed milk (and often twice the price)
Décafféiné (day-kah-fee-nay): Decaf—available for any of the above
Thé nature (tay nah-tour): Plain tea
Thé au lait (tay oh lay): Tea with milk
Thé citron (tay see-trohn): Tea with lemon
Infusion (an-few-see-yohn): Herbal tea
The legal drinking age is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for the hard stuff—at restaurants it’s normal for wine to be served with dinner to teens.
Wine: Wines are often listed in a separate carte des vins. House wine is generally cheap and good (about €3-8/glass). At a restaurant, a bottle or carafe of house wine costs around €10-15. To order inexpensive wine at a restaurant, ask for table or house wine in a pitcher, rather than a bottle. Finer restaurants usually offer only bottles of wine.
Here are some important wine terms:
Vin de table (van duh tah-bluh): House wine
Verre de vin rouge (vehr duh van roozh): Glass of red wine
Verre de vin blanc (vehr duh van blahn): Glass of white wine
Pichet (pee-shay): Pitcher
Demi-pichet (duh-mee pee-shay): Half-carafe
Quart (kar): Quarter-carafe (ideal for one)
Bouteille (boo-teh-ee): Bottle
Demi-bouteille (duh-mee boo-teh-ee): Half-bottle
Beer: Local bière (bee-ehr) costs about €5 at a restaurant and is cheaper on tap (une pression; ewn pres-yohn) than in the bottle. France’s best-known beers are Alsatian; try Kronenbourg or the heavier Pelfort (one of your author’s favorites). Craft beers (bière artisanale), usually from outside Paris, are gaining in popularity; Brittany produces some of the best, though all regions seem to be making craft beers these days. Un Monaco is a red drink made with beer, grenadine, and lemonade.
Aperitifs: Champagne is a popular way to start your evening in France. For a refreshing before-dinner drink, order a kir (pronounced “keer”)—a thumb’s level of crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) topped with white wine (upgrade to a kir royal if you’d like it made with champagne). Also consider a glass of Lillet, a sweet, flowery fortified wine from Bordeaux.
After Dinner: If you like brandy, try a marc (regional brandy—e.g., marc de Bourgogne) or an Armagnac, cognac’s cheaper twin brother. Pastis, the standard southern France aperitif, is a sweet anise (licorice) drink that comes on the rocks with a glass of water. Cut it to taste with lots of water.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your US mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described next, and more details are at www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see www.ricksteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi (pronounced wee-fee in French). You can access the internet, send texts, and even make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi, but some—especially expensive hotels—charge a fee. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, important train stations, airports, aboard trains and buses, and at some autoroute (highway) rest stops.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or use it offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi. Also change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network just long enough for the task at hand. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually turning off data roaming or cellular data (either works) in your device’s Settings menu. Another way to make sure you’re not accidentally using data roaming is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), and then turn your Wi-Fi back on as needed.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost voice calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi. With an app installed on your phone, tablet, or laptop, you can log on to a Wi-Fi network and contact friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some of these services you can call or send a text anywhere for just pennies per minute.
Some apps, such as Apple’s iMessage, will use the cellular network if Wi-Fi isn’t available: To avoid this possibility, turn off the “Send as SMS” feature.
With a European SIM card, you get a European mobile number and access to cheaper rates than you’ll get through your US carrier. This option works best for those who want to make a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or want faster connection speeds than their US carrier provides. It’s simple: You buy a SIM card in Europe to replace the SIM card in your “unlocked” US phone or tablet (check with your carrier about unlocking it) or buy a basic cell phone in Europe.
SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and vending machines, but if you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop (you may need to show your passport). Costing about $5-10, SIM cards usually include prepaid calling credit, with no contract and no commitment. Expect to pay $20-40 more for a SIM card with a gigabyte of data.
There are no roaming charges for EU citizens using a domestic SIM card in other EU countries. Theoretically, providers don’t have to offer Americans this “roam-like-at-home” pricing, but most do. To be sure, buy your SIM card at a mobile-phone shop and ask if non-EU citizens also have roam-like-at-home pricing.
When you run out of credit, you can top your SIM card up at newsstands, tobacco shops, mobile-phone stores, or many other businesses (look for your SIM card’s logo in the window), or possibly online.
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended Paris hotels as an example (tel. 01 47 05 25 45).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (33 for France), and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from home, dial 011 33 1 47 05 25 45.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from Spain, dial 00 33 1 47 05 25 45.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within France (from one French landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number, including the initial 0 if there is one.
To call the Paris hotel from Nice, dial 01 47 05 25 45.
French Phone Prefixes: France doesn’t use area codes. French phone prefixes vary by region or type of call. For instance, all Paris landline numbers start with 01, and all landlines in Provence and the Riviera begin with 04.
Any number beginning with 06 or 07 is a mobile phone, and costs more to dial.
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: France’s toll-free numbers start with 0800-0805 and are called numéro vert (green number). Any 08 number followed by 10-99 is a toll call (generally €0.10-0.50/minute; cost announced in French; you can hang up before being billed). International rates apply to US toll-free numbers dialed from France—they’re not free.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Iceland | 354 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353 / 44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
It’s possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel, and check email or browse websites using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. Prepaid international phone cards (cartes international) are not widely used in France, but can be found at some newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations. Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number.
Public computers are not always easy to find. Some hotels have one in their lobby for guests to use; otherwise you may find one at a public library (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a Web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.”
The French postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). French post offices are referred to as La Poste or sometimes the old-fashioned PTT, for “Post, Telegraph, and Telephone.” Hours vary, though most are open weekdays 8:00-19:00 and Saturday morning 8:00-12:00. Stamps are also sold at tabacs. It costs about €1 to mail a postcard to the US. One convenient, if expensive, way to send packages home is to use the post office’s Colissimo XL postage-paid mailing box. It costs €50-90 to ship boxes weighing 5-7 kilos (about 11-15 pounds).
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers and those who want to leave the driving to others. Smart travelers can use short-hop flights within Europe to creatively connect the dots on their itineraries. Just be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; and flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see www.ricksteves.com/transportation.
In cities, arriving by train in the middle of town makes hotel-hunting and sightseeing easy. But in France, many destinations are small, remote places far from a station, such as Honfleur, Mont St-Michel, D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne caves, and villages in Provence and Burgundy. In such places, taking trains and buses can require great patience, planning, and time. If you’ll be relying on public transportation, focus on fewer destinations, or hire one of the excellent minivan tour guides I recommend.
I’ve included two sample itineraries—by car and by public transportation—to help you explore France smoothly; you’ll find these on here and here.
France’s SNCF rail system (short for Société Nationale Chemins de Fer) sets the pace in Europe. Its high-speed trains (TGV, tay zhay vay; Train à Grande Vitesse—also called “InOui”) have inspired bullet trains throughout the world. The TGV, which requires a reservation, runs at 170-220 mph. Its rails are fused into one long, continuous track for a faster and smoother ride. The TGV has changed commuting patterns throughout France by putting most of the country within day-trip distance of Paris.
Any staffed train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. For more on train travel, see www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times and frequencies shown in this book—online, go to www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe schedule site), or check locally at train stations. The French rail website is www.sncf.com; for online sales, go to https://en.oui.sncf/en. If you’ll be traveling on one or two long-distance trains without a rail pass, it’s worth looking online, as advance-purchase discounts can be a great deal.
Bigger stations may have helpful information agents roaming the station (usually in bright red or blue vests) and at Accueil or Information offices or booths. Make use of their help; don’t stand in a ticket line if all you need is a train schedule or to confirm a departure time.
The single-country Eurail France Pass can be a good value for long-distance train travelers. Each day of use of your France Pass allows you to take as many trips as you want on one calendar day (you could go from Paris to Beaune in Burgundy, enjoy wine tasting, then continue to Avignon, stay a few hours, and end in Nice—though I wouldn’t recommend it).
Be aware that France’s fast TGV and international trains require paid seat reservations (up to €20 within France and more for international). Particularly on international trains, places for rail-pass holders can be limited—which means trains may “sell out” for pass holders well before they’ve sold out for ticket buyers. Reserving these fast trains at least several weeks in advance is recommended (for strategies, see “Reservations,” later).
You’ll save money with the second-class version of the France Pass, but first class gives you more options when reserving popular TGV routes. A first-class pass also grants you access to “Salon des Grand Voyageurs” lounges in railway stations at Paris (Est, Nord, Montparnasse, and Gare de Lyon), Strasbourg, Bordeaux, Marseille, Nantes, Rennes, Lille Flandres, Lille Europe, and Lyon Part-Dieu. These first-class lounges are more basic than airport lounges and can be crowded in big cities—but they do offer free coffee and water, good chairs, Wi-Fi, WCs, and a place to charge your phone.
For very short trips in France, buy second-class point-to-point tickets. Longer rides are where you can really save money with either a rail pass or advance-purchase ticket discounts. Note that if you’re connecting the French Alps with Alsace, you might travel through Switzerland, a route that requires France Pass holders to buy a ticket for that segment (about €50).
If your trip extends beyond France, consider the Eurail Select Pass for two to four adjacent countries directly connected by rail or ferry. Two-country Select Passes allow you to pair France with the Benelux region, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, or Spain. For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Online: While there’s no deadline to buy any train ticket, the fast, reserved TGV trains get booked up. Buy well ahead for any TGV you cannot afford to miss. Tickets go on sale as far as four months in advance, with a wide range of prices on any one route. The cheapest tickets sell out early and reservations for rail-pass holders also go particularly fast.
To buy the cheapest advance-discount tickets (up to 60 percent less than full fare), visit https://en.oui.sncf/en three to four months ahead of your travel date. (A pop-up window may ask you to choose between being sent to the Rail Europe website or staying on the SNCF page—click “Stay.”) Next, choose “Train,” then “TGV.” Under “Book your train tickets,” pick your travel dates, and choose “France” as your ticket collection country. The cheapest (nonrefundable) tickets are called “Prems”; be sure it also says “TGV” (avoid iDTGV trains—they’re very cheap, but this SNCF subsidiary doesn’t accept PayPal). Choose the eticket delivery option (which allows you to print at home) and pay with your PayPal account to avoid credit-card approval issues. These low-rate tickets may not be available from Rail Europe or other US agents.
A Eurail France Pass lets you travel by train in France for one to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. Discounted rates are offered for two or more people traveling together or for youths (age 12-27). Up to two kids (age 4-11) can travel free with each adult.
France can also be included in a Eurail Select Pass, which allows travel in two to four neighboring countries over two months, and it’s covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.
Rail passes are best purchased outside Europe (through travel agents or Rick Steves’ Europe). For more on the ins and outs of rail passes, including prices, download my free guide to Eurail Passes (www.ricksteves.com/rail-guide) or go to www.ricksteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, look into buying individual point-to-point tickets, which may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US$, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.
After the “Prems” rates are sold out, you can buy other fare types on the French site with a US credit card if it has been set up for the “Verified by Visa,” “MasterCard SecureCode,” or “American Express SafeKey” program. For a credit-card purchase, choose “USA” as your ticket collection country.
Otherwise, US customers can order through a US agency, such as at www.ricksteves.com/rail, which offers both etickets and home delivery, but may not have access to all the cheapest rates; or Trainline (www.trainline.eu), which sells the “Prems” fare and iDTGV tickets.
Travelers with smartphones have the option of saving tickets and reservations directly to their phones (choose “m-ticket”). For more details, see https://en.oui.sncf/en/mobile.
In France: You can buy train tickets in person at SNCF Boutiques or at any train station, either from a staffed ticket window or from a machine. You can buy tickets on the train for a €4-10 surcharge depending on the length of your trip, but you must find the conductor immediately upon boarding; otherwise it’s a €35 minimum charge.
The ticket machines available at most stations are great time savers when other lines are long. While most machines accept American chip cards if you know the PIN code, be prepared with euro coins and bills just in case. Some machines have English instructions, but for those that don’t, here are the prompts. (Turn the dial or move the cursor to your choice, and press “Validez” to agree to each step.)
1. Quelle est votre destination? (What’s your destination?)
2. Billet Plein Tarif (Full-fare ticket—yes for most.)
3. 1ère ou 2ème (First or second class; normally second is fine.)
4. Aller simple ou aller-retour? (One-way or round-trip?)
5. Prix en Euro (The price should be shown if you get this far.)
Reservations are required for any TGV or Intercité train, couchettes (sleeping berths) on night trains, and some other trains where indicated in timetables. You can reserve any train at any station any time before your departure or through SNCF Boutiques. If you’re buying a point-to-point ticket for a TGV or Intercité train, you’ll reserve your seat when you purchase your ticket.
Popular TGV routes can fill up quickly. It’s wise to book well ahead for any TGV, especially on the busy Paris-Avignon-Nice line. If the TGV trains you want are fully booked, ask about TER trains serving the same destination, as these don’t require reservations.
If you’re using a rail pass, reservations cost €10-20 for domestic travel, depending on the kind of train they’re for and where you buy them. Seat reservations on Thalys and international TGV trains usually range from €10 to €38, with the price depending on route and class of service (and can cost up to €60 in first class on TGV Lyria trains to Swiss destinations). These international routes also allocate a very limited number of seats for rail-pass holders. Eurostar trains (to and from London only) accept the larger multicountry passes (plus seat reservation).
Rail-pass holders can book TGV reservations directly at French stations up to departure, if still available, or book etickets at www.raileurope.com. Given the possible difficulty of getting TGV reservations with a rail pass, I recommend making those reservations online before you leave home.
For trains other than the TGV and Intercité, reservations are generally unnecessary, but are advisable during busy times (for example, Friday and Sunday afternoons, Saturday mornings, weekday rush hours, and holiday weekends; see “Holidays and Festivals” in the appendix).
I’ve noted when baggage check (Consigne or Espaces Bagages) is available (only at a handful of the biggest stations, can depend on current security concerns—be prepared to keep your bag; about €5-10/bag per day depending on size). For security reasons, all luggage should carry a tag with the traveler’s first and last name and current address (though it’s not enforced). This applies to hand luggage as well as bigger bags that are stowed. Free tags are available at many train stations.
Other baggage-check options include hotels and shops near train stations (ask at the station or the TI). Major museums and monuments often have free baggage check for visitors. Even if the sight is not particularly interesting to you, the entry fee may be worth it if you need to stow your bags for a few hours.
• Arrive at the station at least 30 minutes before your departure, when platform numbers are typically posted. (In Paris, your ticket must be scanned to access the platform—see below.) Large stations have separate information (accueil) windows; at small stations the ticket office gives information.
• Small stations are minimally staffed; if there is no agent at the station, go directly to the tracks and look for the overhead sign that confirms your train stops at that track.
• Larger stations have platforms with monitors showing TGV layouts (numbered forward or backward) so you can figure out where your car (voiture) will stop on the long platform and where to board each car.
• Travelers with first-class tickets or rail passes can gain access to lounges at some stations (see “Rail Passes” earlier).
• At major stations (including all Paris stations) you’ll need to scan your ticket at turnstiles to access the tracks. Smaller stations continue to use the old system of validating your ticket in yellow machines near the platform or waiting area. Print-at-home tickets and etickets downloaded to your phone don’t require validation.
• If you have a rail pass, get it activated at a ticket window before using it the first time (don’t stamp it in the machine). If you’re traveling with a pass and have a reservation for a certain trip, you must activate the reservation by stamping it.
• If you have a rail flexipass, write the date on your pass each day you travel (before or immediately after boarding your first train).
• Note that a Eurail pass must be kept in its cover, and you must fill in trip details on the cover as you go.
• Before getting on a train, confirm that it’s going where you think it is. For example, if you want to go to Bayeux, ask the conductor or any local passenger, “A Bayeux?” (ah bah-yuh).
• Some longer trains split off cars en route. Make sure your train car is continuing to your destination by asking, for example, “Cette voiture va à Avignon?” (seht vwah-toor vah ah ah-veen-yohn; meaning, “This car goes to Avignon?”).
• If a non-TGV train seat is reserved, it’ll likely be labeled réservé, with the cities to and from which it is reserved.
• If you don’t understand an announcement, ask your neighbor to explain: “Pardon madame/monsieur, qu’est-ce qui se passe?” (kehs kee suh pahs; “Excuse me, what’s going on?”).
• Verify with the conductor all the transfers you must make: “Correspondance à Lyon?” (“Must I transfer to get to Lyon?”)
• To guard against theft, keep your bags in sight (directly overhead is ideal but rarely available—the early boarder gets the best storage space). If you must store them in the lower racks by the doors (available in most cars), pay attention at stops. Your bags are most vulnerable to theft before the train takes off and whenever it stops.
• Note your arrival time, so you’ll be ready to get off.
• Use the train’s free WCs before you get off (but not while the train is stopped in a station).
Buses usually provide the cheapest transportation between European cities. (They’re also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares.)
Eurolines is the old standby, but two relative newcomers—Ouibus and FlixBus—are cutting prices drastically while offering speedy service, snacks for purchase, Wi-Fi, easy booking, and lots of destinations in France. All of these companies usually provide service between train stations or between train stations and airports within France, as well as to international destinations. The bus is also a handy way to connect Parisian airports with other destinations in France, such as Blois, Rouen, and Caen, for example.
Ouibus has routes mostly within France, but serves some other European cities as well (toll tel. 08 92 68 00 68, www.ouibus.com). German-run FlixBus connects key cities within France and throughout Europe, often from secondary airports and train stations (handy eticket system and easy-to-use app, tel. 01 76 36 04 12, www.flixbus.com). Eurolines’ buses depart from Paris’ Gare Routière du Paris-Gallieni station in the suburb of Bagnolet (28 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, Mo: Gallieni, toll tel. 08 92 89 90 91; from the US, dial 011 33 1 41 86 24 21, www.eurolines.com).
A few bus lines are run by the SNCF rail system and are covered by your rail pass (show rail pass at station to get free bus ticket), but most bus lines are not covered. Bus stations (gare routière) are usually located next to train stations. Train stations usually have bus information where train-to-bus connections are important—and vice versa for bus companies.
These tips apply to buses you’ll use to explore an area from your home base (for instance, getting to Vaison-la-Romaine from Avignon).
• Read the train tips described earlier—many also apply to buses (check schedules in advance, arrive at the station early, confirm the destination before you board, find out if you need to transfer, etc.).
• The bus company websites I’ve listed in this book are usually in French only. Here are some key phrases you’ll see: horaires (schedules), en semaine (usually Monday through Saturday, sometimes through Friday), samedi (Saturday), dimanche (Sunday), jours fériés (holidays), LMMJV (Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday), année (bus runs all year on the days listed), vac (runs only during summer vacations), scol/scolaire (runs only when school is in session), ligne (route or bus line), and réseau (network—usually all routes).
• Use TIs to help plan your trip and verify times (TIs have regional bus schedules).
• Be aware that service is sparse or nonexistent on Sunday. Wednesday bus schedules often are different during the school year, because school is out this day (and regional buses generally operate school service).
• Confirm a bus stop’s location in advance (rural stops are often not signed) and be at bus stops at least five minutes early.
Worthwhile day tours are generally available in regions where bus and train service is sparse. For the D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne Valley villages and caves, Cathar castles near Carcassonne, Provence’s villages and vineyards, the Route du Vin (Wine Road) in Alsace, other Normandy and Brittany sights (including Mont St-Michel), and wine tasting in Burgundy, I list reliable companies that provide this helpful service at fair rates. Some of these minivan excursions just offer transportation between the sights; others add a running commentary and information on regional history.
Most European taxis are reliable and reasonable. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. In France, Uber services generally work in only the largest cities and are not much cheaper than taxis.
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt, and the French agency, ADA (www.ada.fr). Consolidators such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper www.autoeurope.eu), compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Ask about add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking.
Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, request one in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites. If you’re considered too young or too old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less stringent age restrictions.
Choosing Pickup/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose. Except at airports and major train stations, most rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting an office, plug the address into a mapping website to confirm the location. A downtown site is generally cheaper—and might seem more convenient than the airport. But pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
If you want a car for only a day or two (e.g., for the Côtes du Rhône wine route, Luberon villages, D-Day beaches, or Loire Valley châteaux), you’ll likely find it easy to rent on the spot just about anywhere in France. In many cases, this is a worthwhile splurge. All you need is your American driver’s license and a major credit card (figure €60-90/day; some include unlimited mileage, others give you 100 kilometers—about 60 miles—for free).
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15-30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card for up to the full value of the car. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save money on taxes and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months; Idea Merge offers two-week leases. Car leases must be arranged from the US; some companies allow drop off in different countries.
These reliable companies offer 21-day lease packages: Auto France (Peugeot cars only, US tel. 800-572-9655, www.autofrance.net); Idea Merge (ask about two-week leases; Citroën only, US tel. 503/715-5810, www.ideamerge.com); and Kemwel (Peugeot only, US tel. 877-820-0668, www.kemwel.com).
Even given the extra fuel costs, renting your own rolling hotel can be a great way to save money, especially if you’re sticking mainly to rural areas. Keep in mind that RVs in France are much smaller than those you see at home. Consider: Van It (rents pop-top VW Eurovan campers that are easy to maneuver on small roads, mobile 06 95 99 61 46, www.van-it.com); Idea Merge (best resource for small RV rental, see listing earlier); and Origin (current-model Volkswagen vans fully equipped for 2-3 people, rates less than RVs, mobile 06 80 01 72 77, www.origin-campervans.com).
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigation in Europe, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic updates, you’ll need mobile data access. And driving all day can burn through a lot of very expensive data. The economical workaround is to use map apps that work offline. By downloading in advance from Google Maps, Apple Maps, Here WeGo, or Navmii, you can still have turn-by-turn voice directions and maps that recalibrate even though they’re offline.
You must download your maps before you go offline—and it’s smart to select large regions. Then turn off your data connection so you’re not charged for roaming. Call up the map, enter your destination, and you’re on your way. Even if you don’t have to pay extra for data roaming, this option is great for navigating in areas with poor connectivity.
GPS Devices: If you want the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off.
A less expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be sure to buy and install the European maps you’ll need before your trip.
Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in when my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at European gas stations, bookshops, newsstands, and tourist shops.
Michelin maps are available throughout France at bookstores, newsstands, and gas stations (about €6 each, cheaper than in the US). The Michelin #721 France map (1:1,000,000 scale) covers this book’s destinations with good detail for drivers. Drivers should also consider the soft-cover Michelin France atlas (the entire country at 1:200,000, well-organized in a €20 book with an index and maps of major cities). Spend a few minutes learning the Michelin key to get the most sightseeing value out of these maps.
It’s a pleasure to explore France by car, but you need to know the rules.
Road Rules: Seat belts are mandatory for all, and children under age 10 must be in the back seat with a special seat. In city and town centers, traffic merging from the right (even from tiny side streets) may have the right-of-way (priorité à droite). So even when you’re driving on a major road, pay attention to cars merging from the right. In contrast, cars entering the countless suburban roundabouts must yield (cédez le passage). You can’t turn right on a red light, U-turns are illegal, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right.
When navigating France’s narrow village lanes, you’ll likely encounter short sections where cars must pass single file, one direction at a time (to control speeds). At those spots, you’ll see a sign with thick and thin arrows pointing up and down. A thick (white) arrow pointing up in the direction you’re traveling means you have priority to pass through the section; a red arrow indicates you must yield to cars coming the other way.
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times (in France, they must be used in any case of poor visibility), and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Country Information” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Speed Limits: Because speed limits are by road type, they typically aren’t posted, so it’s best to memorize them:
• Two-lane D and N routes outside cities and towns: 80 km/hour, 90 km/hour if the road has a divider separating the lanes.
• Two-lane roads in villages: 50 km/hour (unless posted at 30 km/hour)
• Divided highways outside cities and towns: 90-110 km/hour
• Autoroutes (toll roads): 130 km/hour (unless otherwise posted)
If it’s raining, subtract 10 km/hour on D and N routes and 20 km/hour on divided highways and autoroutes. Speed-limit signs are a red circle around a number; when you see that same number again in gray with a broken line diagonally across it, this means that limit no longer applies. Speed limits drop to 30-50 km/hour in villages (always posted) and must be respected.
Road speeds are monitored regularly with cameras—a mere two kilometers over the limit yields a pricey ticket (a minimum of about €70). The good news is that signs warn drivers a few hundred yards before the camera and show the proper speed (see image on the next page). Look for a sign with a radar graphic that says Pour votre sécurité, contrôles automatiques. The French use these cameras not to make money but to slow down traffic—and it works.
Tire Pressure: In Europe, tire pressure is measured in bars of pressure. To convert to PSI (pounds per square inch) the formula is: bar × 14.5 = PSI (so 2 bars would be 2 × 14.5, or 29 PSI). To convert to bar pressures from PSI, the formula is: PSI × 0.07 = bar (so 30 PSI × 0.07 would be 2.1 bar). Your car’s recommended tire pressure is usually found on a sticker mounted on the driver-side doorframe.
Pulling to the Side of the Road: All rental cars are equipped with a yellow safety vest and triangle. You must wear the vest and display the triangle whenever you pull over on the side of the road (say, to fix a flat tire). If you don’t, you could be fined.
Fuel: Gas (essence) is expensive—about $7 per gallon. Diesel (gazole) costs less—about $6.50 per gallon. Know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Many Americans get marooned by filling with unleaded in a diesel car. Many rentals are diesel; if yours is one of them, use the yellow pump. Fuel is most expensive on autoroutes and cheapest at big supermarkets. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-serve pumps—so you may need to find gas stations with attendants (all autoroute stations have them, as do most countryside stations during business hours)—and be sure to know your card’s PIN (explained earlier, under “Money”).
Plan ahead for Sundays, as most gas stations in town are closed. I fill my tank every Saturday. If stuck on a Sunday, use an autoroute, where the gas stations are always staffed.
Autoroutes and Tolls: Autoroute tolls are pricey, but the alternative to these super-“feeways” usually means being marooned in countryside traffic—especially near the Riviera. Autoroutes save enough time, gas, and nausea to justify the cost. Mix high-speed “autorouting” with scenic country-road rambling.
You’ll usually take a ticket when entering an autoroute and pay when you leave. Figure roughly €1 in tolls for every 15 kilometers driven on the autoroute (or about €15 for two hours). Cash (coins or bills under €50) is your best payment option as some US credit cards won’t work (for more on paying at tollbooths, see the sidebar). Estimate your distance and toll costs, then make sure that you have enough cash before entering the autoroute.
Autoroute gas stations are open on Sundays and usually come with well-stocked minimarts, clean restrooms, sandwiches, maps, local products, cheap vending-machine coffee, and Wi-Fi. Many have small cafés or more elaborate cafeterias with reasonable prices. For more information, see www.autoroutes.fr.
Highways: Roads are classified into departmental (D), national (N), and autoroutes (A). D routes (usually yellow lines on maps) are often slower but the most scenic. N routes and important D routes (red lines) are the fastest after autoroutes (orange lines on maps). Green road signs are for national routes; blue are for autoroutes. Some roads in France have had route-number changes (mostly N roads converting to D roads). If you’re using an older map, the actual route name may differ from what’s on your map. Navigate by destination rather than road name...or buy a new map. There are plenty of good facilities, gas stations (most closed Sun), and rest stops along most French roads.
Parking: Finding a parking place can be a headache in larger cities. Ask your hotelier for ideas, and pay to park at well-patrolled lots (blue P signs direct you to parking lots in French cities). Parking garages require that you take a ticket with you and pay at a machine (called a caisse) on your way back to the car or at a machine at the exit. American chip cards should work in these machines; otherwise, use euro coins (some accept bills, too). If your credit card does not work and you don’t have enough coins, find the garage’s accueil office, where the attendant can help or direct you to a nearby shop where you can change bills into coins. Overnight parking in garages (usually 19:00-8:00) is generally reasonable (priciest in cities).
Metered parking is strictly monitored in France. At parking machines, prepare to enter your car’s license plate number and the amount of time you need, then take the receipt and place it on your dash. While the first 30 minutes is often free, you still need to input your license number and get a ticket. Metered parking is sometimes free 12:00-14:00 and usually free 19:00-9:00 and on Sunday (varies by city and parking area). Look for a small machine selling time (called an horodateur, usually one per block), and plug in a few coins or your credit card. Avoid spaces outlined in blue, as they require a special permit.
Theft: Theft is a problem, particularly in southern France. Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Try to make your car look locally owned by hiding the “tourist-owned” rental-company decals and putting a French newspaper in your back window. Be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk—or, even better, with you or in your room. And don’t assume that just because you’re parked on a main street that you’ll be fine. Thieves work fast.
• France is riddled with roundabouts—navigating them is an art. The key is to know your direction and be ready for your turnoff. If you miss it, take another lap (or two). See the diagram on next page.
• At intersections and roundabouts, French road signs use the name of an upcoming destination for directions—the highway number is usually missing. That upcoming destination could be a major city, or it could be the next minor town up the road. Check your map ahead of time and get familiar with the names of towns and cities along your route—and even major cities on the same road beyond your destination.
• When navigating into cities, approach intersections cautiously, stow the map, and follow the signs to Centre-Ville (city center). From there, head to the TI (Office de Tourisme) or your hotel.
• When leaving or just passing through cities, follow the signs for Toutes Directions or Autres Directions (meaning “anywhere else”) until you see a sign for your specific destination. Look also for Suivre signs telling you to follow (suivre) signs for the (usually more important) destination listed.
• Driving on any roads but autoroutes will take longer than you think, so allow plenty of time for slower traffic (tractors, trucks, and hard-to-decipher signs all deserve blame). First-timers should estimate how long they think a drive will take...then double it. I pretend that kilometers are miles (for distances) and base my time estimates accordingly.
• While locals are eating lunch (12:00-14:00), many sights (and gas stations) are closed, so you can make great time driving—but keep it slow when passing through villages.
• Be very careful when driving on smaller roads—many are narrow and flanked by little ditches that lure inattentive drivers. I’ve met several readers who “ditched” their cars (and had to be pulled out by local farmers).
• On autoroutes, keep to the right lanes to let fast drivers by, and be careful when merging into a left lane, as cars can be coming at high speeds.
• Motorcycles will scream between cars in traffic. Be ready—they expect you to make space so that they can pass.
• Keep a stash of coins handy for parking and small autoroute tolls.
You’ll find areas in France where public transportation is limited and bicycle touring might be a good idea. For many, biking is a romantic notion, and the novelty wears off after the first hill or headwind. Realistically evaluate your physical condition, be clear on the limitations present, and consider an electric bike. Electrically assisted bikes are now available everywhere in France—making biking a reasonable option for many. For a good touring bike, figure about €15 for a half-day and €20 for a full day (double that for electric bikes). You’ll pay more for better equipment; generally the best bikes are available through bike shops, not at train stations or other outlets.
Whether on an electric or standard bike, start with an easy pedal, then decide how ambitious you feel. Most find that one hour on a narrow, hard seat is enough. I’ve listed bike-rental shops where appropriate (TIs can also guide you), and suggested a few of my favorite rides. French cyclists often do not wear helmets, though most rental outfits have them (for a small fee).
To compare flight costs and times, begin with a travel search engine: Kayak.com is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner.com includes many inexpensive flights within Europe.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities has become surprisingly affordable. If you’re visiting one or more French cities on a longer European trip—or linking up far-flung French cities (such as Paris and Nice)—a flight can save both time and money. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, first check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet, Vueling, or Ryanair. Also check Air France for specials. Be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal customer service, time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and stingy baggage allowances (also an issue on major airlines). To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print about the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or checking in and printing a boarding pass.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. It’s also important to charge your electronic devices before you board because security checks may require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
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