Prologue
1. Michael N. Sawka, Samuel N. Cheuvront, and Robert Carter III, “Human Water Needs,” Nutrition Reviews 63 (2005): S30.
2. Some historians estimate that humans arrived in America as early as 40,000 to 50,000 years ago.
3. John G. Bourke, “Distillation by Early American Indians,” American Anthropologist 7 (1894): 34; V. Havard, “Drink Plants of the North American Indians,” Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical Club 23 (1896): 34, 35, 37.
4. Havard, “Drink Plants of the North American Indians,” 45; Alice Ross, interview with author, April 28, 2011.
5. George H. Loskiel, History of Missions of the United Brethren (London: Brethren’s Society for the Furtherance of the Gospel, 1794), 70, 74.
6. Charles H. Fairbanks, “The Function of Black Drink Among the Creeks,” in Black Drink: A Native American Tea, ed. Charles M. Hudson (Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1979), 123.
7. Charles M. Hudson, “Introduction,” in Hudson, Black Drink, 2–4.
8. Fairbanks, “Function of Black Drink Among the Creeks,” 142.
9. Virgil Vogel, American Indian Medicine (Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1970), 42, 48, 73.
10. Hector St. John de Crèvecoeur, “Customs,” in Sketches of Eighteenth Century America, ed. Henri L. Bourdin, Ralph H. Gabriel, and Stanley T. Williams (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 1925), 123; John Bartlett, “Remarks of the Toxic Qualities of Sassafras,” Virginia Medical Monthly 12 (1886): 693; “Editorial,” Medical and Surgical Reporter 7 (1854): 534; John Urt Lloyd, “An Historical Study of Sassafras,” American Druggist 33 (1898): 195–196; Stanley Baron, Brewed in America (Boston: Little, Brown, 1962), 19; Harriott Pinckney Horry, A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770, ed. Richard J. Hooker (Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1984), 134.
11. George C. Deikman, “The Pharmacy of Sassafras,” Bulletin of Pharmacy (1898): 540–541.
12. In 1960, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration banned the use of safrole (an ingredient in sassafras root, bark, and oil) as a known precarcinogen.
13. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 131.
14. Horry, Colonial Plantation Cookbook; Amelia Simmons, American Cookery: A Facsimile of the First Edition with an Essay by Mary Tolford Wilson (New York: Oxford University Press, 1958), 64.
15. Melvin R. Gilmore, “Some Chippewa Uses of Plants,” in An Ethnobiology Source Book: The Uses of Plants and Animals by American Indians, ed. Richard I. Ford (New York: Garland, 1986), 128.
1. Colonial Diversity
1. George Percy, “Observations by Master George Percy,” in Narratives of Early Virginia, 1606–1625, ed. Lyon Gardiner Tyler (New York: Scribner, 1907), 9–10.
3. George Percy, “A Discourse on the Plantation of the Southern Colony in Virginia by the English, 1606,” in Hakluytus Posthumus, Or, Purchas His Pilgrimes, comp. Samuel Purchas (Glasgow: MacLehose, 1906), 18:418.
4. Don Diego Sarmiento de Acuña to H. M., London, October 5, 1613, in The Genesis of the United States, ed. Alexander Brown (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1891), 2:660.
5. Thomas Harriot, A Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia (Frankfurt: De Bry, 1590), 13.
6. James E. Thorold Rogers, A History of Agriculture and Prices in England: From the Year After the Oxford Parliament (1259) to the Commencement of the Continental War (1793), 7 vols. (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1866–1902).
7. A Relation or Iournall of the Beginning and Proceeding of the English Plantation Settled at Plimoth in New England (London: Iohn Bellamie, 1622), quoted in Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society for 1802 (Boston: Munroe and Francis, 1802), 8:208.
8. Edward Johnson, A History of New-England (London: Nath. Brooke, 1654), 48–49.
9. William Bradford, Of Plymouth Plantation, 1620–1647 (New York: Modern Library, 1981), 143.
10. William Wood, New-Englands Prospect (London: Tho. Cotes for Iohn Bellamie, 1634), 15.
11. Hugh Jones, “Of the Habits, Customs, Parts, Employment, Trade,” in The Present State of Virginia, ed. Richard L. Morton (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1956), 86.
12. Gottlieb Mittelberger, “Description of the Land,” in Gottlieb Mittelberger’s Journey, ed. Karl Theodor Eben (Philadelphia: John Jos. McVey, 1898), 67.
13. Douglas Southall Freeman, George Washington (New York: Scribner, 1948), 1:105.
14. A Short Description of the Province of South Carolina: With an Account of the Air, Weather, and Diseases, at Charlestown, Written in the Year 1763, in Historical Collections of South Carolina, comp. B. R. Carroll (New York: Harper, 1836), 2:496, 508, 510.
16. Peter Kalm, Travels into North America, trans. John Reinhold Goresterm (Barre, Mass.: Imprint Society, 1972), 328.
18. Keith Thomas, Religion and the Decline of Magic (London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1971), 17, 19.
19. David W. Conroy, In Public Houses: Drink and the Revolution of Authority in Colonial Massachusetts (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1995), 19–20, 24–25, 39.
20. Jack S. Blocker, American Temperance Movements: Cycles of Reform (Boston: Twayne, 1989), 3.
21. Hector St. John de Crèvecoeur, Sketches of Eighteenth Century America, ed. Henri L. Bourdin, Ralph H. Gabriel, and Stanley T. Williams (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 1925), 123.
22. Samuel Morewood, An Essay on the Inventions and Customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Inebriating Liquors (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown and Green, 1824), 182.
23. William Penn, “The Beginnings of the City,” in Memorial History of the City of Philadelphia, ed. John Russell Young (New York: New-York History, 1895), 1:72.
24. John Josselyn, New-England Rarities Discovered (Boston: William Veazie, 1865), 90, 112.
25. Robert Beverley, “Edibles, Potables, and Fuel in Virginia,” in The History and Present State of Virginia, ed. Louis Booker Wright (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1947), 293.
27. Stanley Baron, Brewed in America (Boston: Little, Brown, 1962), 19–30, 43–51, 75–79.
28. “1648, March 10th. An Ordinance Against Drinking to Excess, Sabbath Breaking, for Regulating Taverns and to Prevent Frauds Upon the Excise,” quoted in First Report of the State Commissioner of Excise, Documents of the Assembly of the State of New York (Albany, N.Y.: Wynkoop Hallenbeck Crawford, 1897), 1:279.
29. Robert Beverley, “Of the Natural Products of Virginia,” in The History of Virginia, ed. Charles Campbell (Richmond, Va.: J. W. Randolph, 1855), 259; Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, The Physiology of Taste (Mineola, N.Y.: Dover, 2002), 58.
30. Beverley, “Of the Natural Products of Virginia,” 259; Tench Coxe, A View of the United States (Philadelphia: William Hall, 1794), 209.
31. Morewood, Essay on the Inventions and Customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Inebriating Liquors, 182.
32. Jones, “Of the Habits, Customs, Parts, Employment, Trade,” 86.
33. Walt Winthrop, “Winthrop Papers,” in Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 6th ser. (Boston: Massachusetts Historical Society, 1892), 5:11, 107, 169, 311, 352.
34. Samuel Sewall, “Diary of Samuel Sewall: 1699–1714,” in Collections of the Massachusetts Society, 5th ser. (Boston: Massachusetts Historical Society, 1879), 6:15, 18, 34, 36, 116, 187, 203, 222, 253, 265, 282, 440.
35. Peter C. Mancall, Deadly Medicine: Indians and Alcohol in Early America (Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University Press, 1995), xi.
36. Mittelberger, “Description of the Land,” 66.
37. Celia D. Shapiro, “Nation of Nowhere: Jewish Role in Colonial American Chocolate History,” in Chocolate: History, Culture, and Heritage, ed. Louis E. Grivetti (Hoboken, N.J.: Wiley, 2009), 54–60.
38. William H. Ukers, All About Coffee (New York: Tea and Coffee Trade Journal, 1935), 111–112.
39. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 93.
40. Jones, “Of the Habits, Customs, Parts, Employment, Trade,” 86.
41. Pennsylvania Gazette, March 3, 1765, and August 1, 1865, as located by Clarissa Dillon, letter to author, January 14, 2012.
42. Mittelberger, “Description of the Land,” 66.
43. “A Receipt for All Young Ladies That Are Going to Be Married, to Make a Sack Posset,” New York Gazette, February 13, 1744, in “Extracts from the Earliest Newspapers of the City,” in D. T. Valentine, Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York (New York: Edmund Jones, 1862), 720.
44. Henry G. Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon: The Early Years of Whiskeymaking (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2008), 9–12.
45. “Mr. Rantoul’s Establishment in Business—Intemperance and Pauperism,” in Historical Collections of the Essex Institute (Salem, Mass.: Essex Institute, 1863), 5:247.
46. Médéric Moreau de Saint-Méry, “Sojourn in Philadelphia,” in Moreau de St. Méry’s American Journey, trans. and ed. Kenneth Roberts and Anna M. Roberts (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1947), 265–266.
47. John James McCusker, “The Rum Trade and the Balance of Payments of the Thirteen Continental Colonies, 1650–1775” (Ph.D. diss., University of Pittsburgh, 1970), 476–477; W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979), 232.
48. Merton M. Hyman, Marilyn A. Zimmermann, Carol Gurioli, and Alice Helrich, Drinkers, Drinking, and Alcohol-Related Mortality and Hospitalizations: A Statistical Compendium (New Brunswick, N.J.: Publications Division, Center of Alcohol Studies, Rutgers University, 1980), 3.
49. Blocker, American Temperance Movements, 4.
50. Journal of Jasper Danckaerts, 1679–1680, ed. Bartlett B. James and J. Franklin Jameson (New York: Scribner, 1913), 135.
51. Conroy, In Public Houses, 12–16, 75–77.
52. Daniel Webster, A Discourse, Delivered at Plymouth, December 22, 1820 (Boston: Wells and Lilley, 1821), 20; Sidney Morse, Freemasonry in the American Revolution (Washington, D.C.: Masonic Service Association of the United States, 1924), 37.
2. An Essential Ingredient in American Independence
1. Raymond McFarland, A History of the New England Fisheries (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 1911), 103; Allen S. Johnson, “The Passage of the Sugar Act,” William and Mary Quarterly, 3rd ser., 16 (1959): 507.
3. Arthur Meier Schlesinger, The Colonial Merchants and the American Revolution, 1763–1776 (New York: Columbia University, 1918), 43.
4. Frederick Bernays Wiener, “The Rhode Island Merchants and the Sugar Act,” New England Quarterly 3 (1930): 465–466.
5. Yale Law School, “Sugar Act.”
6. John Adams, “To William Tudor, August 11, 1818,” in The Works of John Adams, ed. Charles Francis Adams (Boston: Little, Brown, 1856), 10:345.
7. Wiener, “Rhode Island Merchants and the Sugar Act,” 464.
8. Adam Smith, An Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of Wealth of Nations (Nashville, Tenn.: Plain Label Books, 1963), 118, 659–660.
9. Gilman M. Ostrander, “The Colonial Molasses Trade,” Agricultural History 30 (1956): 77, 82.
10. Robert Beverley, “Of Edibles, Potables, and Fuel in Virginia,” in The History and Present State of Virginia, ed. Louis Booker Wright (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1947), 238.
11. Increase Mather, A Sermon Occasioned by the Execution of a Man Found Guilty of Murder (Boston: Printed by R. P., 1687), 25; Thomas James Holmes, Cotton Mather: A Bibliography of His Works (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1940), 992.
12. David W. Conroy, In Public Houses: Drink and the Revolution of Authority in Colonial Massachusetts (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1995), 9.
13. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 85–86.
14. W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979), 29.
15. Daniel K. Richter, Ordeal of the Longhouse: The Peoples of the Iroquois League in the Era of European Colonization (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1993), 266.
16. Benjamin Franklin, Memoirs of the Life and Writings of Benjamin Franklin, 2nd ed. (London: Henry Colburn, 1818), 1:188.
17. Stanley B. Alpern, “What Africans Got for Their Slaves: A Master List of European Trade Goods,” History in Africa 22 (1995): 25.
18. Gilman M. Ostrander, “The Making of the Triangular Trade Myth,” William and Mary Quarterly, 3rd. ser., 30 (1973): 642; Charles Coulombe, Rum: The Epic Story of the Drink That Conquered the World (New York: Citadel Press, 2004), 61.
19. Alpern, “What Africans Got for Their Slaves,” 25.
20. William Byrd, “Progress to the Mines in the Year 1732,” in Prose Works: Narratives of a Colonial Virginian, ed. Louis B. Wright (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1966), 374.
21. Israel Acrelius, A History of New Sweden, trans. William M. Reynolds (Ann Arbor, Mich.: Readex Microprint, 1966), 162; William Penn, “A Further Account of the Province of Pennsylvania,” in Narratives of Early Pennsylvania, West New Jersey, Delaware, ed. Albert Cook Myers (New York: Scribner, 1912), 267; Benjamin Rush, An Inquiry into the Effects of Ardent Spirits upon the Human Body and Mind, 8th ed. (Boston: James Loring, 1823), 25; Eric Burns, The Spirits of America: A Social History of Alcohol (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2004), 12–13; Dudley C. Gould, Times of Brother Jonathan: What He Ate, Wore, Believed In and Used for Medicine During the War of Independence (Middletown, Conn.: Southfarm Press, 2001), 14; Edward Emerson, Beverages, Past and Present: An Historical Sketch of Their Production, Together with a Study of the Customs Connected with Their Use (New York: Putnam, 1908), 2:462, 465; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 86, 135.
22. Johann David Schöpf, “Return from Pittsburg,” in Travels in the Confederation, 1783–1784, trans. and ed. Alfred James Morrison (Philadelphia: Campbell, 1911), 362–363.
23. Richard B. Sheridan, “The Molasses Act and the Market Strategy of the British Sugar Planters,” Journal of Economic History 17 (1957): 62–63; Albert B. Southwick, “The Molasses Act—Source of Precedents,” William and Mary Quarterly, 3rd ser., 8 (1951): 390; Coulombe, Rum, 59.
24. Frank Wesley Pitman, The Development of the British West Indies, 1700–1763 (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 1918), 214.
26. Schlesinger, Colonial Merchants and the American Revolution, 44.
27. “Answer: November 3, 1764,” in Speeches of the Governors of Massachusetts, from 1765–1775; and the Answers of the House of Representatives to the Same; With Their Resolutions and Addresses for That Period and Other Public Papers Relating to the Dispute Between This Country and Great Britain Which Led to the Independence of the United States, ed. Alden Bradford (Boston: Russell and Gardner, 1818), 19.
28. Johnson, “Passage of the Sugar Act,” 508.
29. “The Stamp Act,” March 22, 1765, in Journals of the House of Burgesses of Virginia, 1761–1765, ed. John Pendleton Kennedy (Richmond, Va.: Colonial Press, 1907), lxxv.
30. George Washington, “To Captain Josiah Thompson, July 2, 1766,” in The Writings of George Washington, ed. Worthington Chauncey Ford (New York: Putnam, 1889), 2:212.
31. Peter Thompson, Rum Punch and Revolution: Taverngoing and Public Life in Eighteenth-Century Philadelphia (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1999), 20.
32. Alpern, “What Africans Got for Their Slaves,” 25.
33. Samuel Morewood, An Essay on the Inventions and Customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Inebriating Liquors (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown and Green, 1824), 184.
34. Benjamin Rush, “A Moral and Physical Thermometer, or, a Scale of the Progress of Temperance and Intemperance. Liquors, with Effects in Their Usual Order,” in An Inquiry into the Effects of Spiritous Liquors on the Human Body (Boston: Thomas and Andrews, 1790), 16.
35. Benjamin Rush, in Massachusetts Spy, July 31, 1788, quoted in Richard Hopwood Thornton, An American Glossary: Being an Attempt to Illustrate Certain Americanisms (Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1922), 2:811.
36. Horace Greeley, The Autobiography of Horace Greeley (New York: Treat, 1872), 100.
37. Mark Wahlgren Summers, Rum, Romanism, and Rebellion: The Making of a President, 1884 (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2000), 282.
38. Ian Williams, Rum: A Social and Sociable History of the Real Spirit of 1776 (New York: Nation Books, 2005); Ian Williams, e-mail to author, July 14, 2011.
1. William Tudor, Life of James Otis of Massachusetts (Boston: Wells & Lilly, 1823), 118.
2. Quoted by Francis Roth, in Bernhard Knollenberg, Origin of the American Revolution, 1759–1766 (New York: Macmillan, 1960), 100.
3. Quoted in Benjamin Bussey Thatcher, Traits of the Tea Party: Being a Memoir of George R. T. Hewes, One of the Last of Its Survivors (New York: Harper, 1835), 178.
4. This composite version was taken from several sources, the most important being ibid., 165–178; Henry Clay Watson, The Yankee Tea-Party; or, Boston in 1773 (Philadelphia: Lindsay and Blackiston, 1852), 17–23; Francis Samuel Drake, Tea Leaves: Being a Collection of Letters and Documents Relating to the Shipment of Tea to the American Colonies in the Year 1773, by the East India Tea Company (Boston: A. O. Crane, 1884).
5. John Adams, “Diary, December 17, 1773,” in The Works of John Adams, Second President of the United States, comp. and ed. Charles Francis Adams (Boston: Little, Brown, 1865), 2:324.
6. Alonzo Lewis, The History of Lynn, 2nd ed. (Boston: Samuel M. Dickenson, 1844), 194.
7. George Wingate Chase, The History of Haverhill, Massachusetts: From Its First Settlement, in 1640 to the Year 1860 (Haverhill: Printed by author, 1861), 258.
8. Peter Kalm, Travels into North America, trans. John Reinhold Foresterm (Barre, Mass.: Imprint Society, 1972), 185.
9. Chase, History of Haverhill, Massachusetts, 258.
10. John E. Wright and Doris S. Corbett, Pioneer Life in Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 1940), 60–61.
11. Edward Eggleston, “The Colonists at Home,” The Century 29 (1885): 886.
12. Henry Parsons Hedges, A History of the Town of East-Hampton, N.Y. (Sag Harbor, N.Y.: J. H. Hunt, 1897), 142.
13. Esther Singleton, Social New York Under the Georges, 1714–1776: Houses, Streets, and Country Homes, with Chapters on Fashions, Furniture, China, Plate, and Manners (New York: Appleton, 1902), 375.
14. Benjamin Franklin, in Pennsylvania Gazette, March 1742, quoted in Jerry Weinberger, Benjamin Franklin Unmasked: On the Unity of His Moral, Religious, and Political Thought (Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 2005), 70; William Burling, “Early Anti-Slavery Advocates,” The Friend 29 (1856): 220; Andreas Mielke, “An Inquiry Concerning Sarah and Benjamin Lay, Abolitionists,” Quaker History 86 (1997): 41–43.
15. William Smith, “The History of the Late Province of New-York,” New-York Historical Society Collections 1 (1830): 333.
16. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 91.
17. Charles W. Elliott, The New England History, from the Discovery of the Continent by the Northmen, A.D. 986, to the Period When the Colonies Declared Their Independence, A.D. 1776 (New York: Scribner, 1857), 149.
18. Boston Gazette, November 21, 1768, quoted in John James Currier, History of Newbury Port, Mass.: 1764–1905 (Newbury Port, Mass: Author, 1906), 1:48.
19. Hoh-Cheung and Lorna H. Mui, “Smuggling and the British Tea Trade Before 1784,” American Historical Review 74 (1968): 44.
20. James Spear Loring, The Hundred Boston Orators Appointed by the Municipal Authorities, 3rd ed. (Boston: John P. Jewett, 1854), 77.
21. Boston Gazette, April 1770, quoted in Drake, Tea Leaves, x.
22. Thatcher, Traits of the Tea Party, 145–146, 148–149.
23. Works of John Adams, 2:255.
24. Benjamin Woods Labaree, The Boston Tea Party (Boston: Northeastern University Press, 1979), ix.
25. George C. Rogers, Jr., “The Charleston Tea Party: The Significance of December 3, 1773,” South Carolina Historical Magazine 75 (1974): 158.
26. “An Account of the Proceedings of the Inhabitants of Philadelphia,” December 27, 1773, quoted in Drake, Tea Leaves, 361–366; William Ukers, The Romance of Tea (New York: Knopf, 1936), 89.
27. Drake, Tea Leaves, lxxxiv.
28. Emma Willard, History of the United States: Or, Republic of America, 4th ed. (New York: White, Gallaher & White, 1831), 155.
29. Henry White to Captain Benjamin Lockyer, April 20, 1774, quoted in Drake, Tea Leaves, lxxxiii.
31. James McSherry, “The Days Before the Revolution,” in History of Maryland, ed. Bartlett Burleigh James (Baltimore: John Murphy, 1852), 173.
32. “Account of the Destruction of the Brig ‘Peggy Stewart,’ at Annapolis, 1774,” Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 25 (1901): 248–250.
33. John Adams, “John Adams to Abigail Adams, July 6, 1774,” in Familiar Letters of John Adams and His Wife Abigail Adams, comp. and ed. Charles Francis Adams (New York: Hurd and Houghton, 1876), 18.
34. Benjamin W. Labaree, The Boston Tea Party, 1773: Catalyst for Revolution (Boston: Massachusetts Bicentennial Commission, 1973), 164.
35. Journals of the Continental Congress, 1774–1789 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1906), 4:277–279.
36. Quoted in Charles H. Sherrill, French Memories of Eighteenth-Century America (New York: Scribner, 1915), 316.
37. “The Narrative of Prince de Broglie,” trans. E. W. Balch, Magazine of American History 1 (1877): 233.
38. Abbé Claude C. Robin, New Travels Through North-America (Philadelphia: Robert Bell, 1783), 251.
39. Sherrill, French Memories of Eighteenth-Century America, 78.
40. J.-P. Brissot de Warville, New Travels in the United States of America (London: J. S. Jordan, 1784), 2:71–72.
41. Nancy Shippen: Her Journal Book, ed. Ethel Armes (Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1935), 248.
42. Dietrich Heinrich and Freiherr Von Bülow, Der Freistaat von Nordamerika in seinem neusten zustand (Berlin: J. H. Unger, 1797), cited in Ellis Paxson Oberholtzer, Philadelphia: A History of the City and Its People, a Record of 225 Years (Philadelphia: J. S. Clarke, 1912), 1:387.
43. Médéric Moreau de Saint-Méry, “Sojourn in Philadelphia,” in Moreau de St. Méry’s American Journey, trans. and ed. Kenneth Roberts and Anna M. Roberts (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1947), 6, 256.
44. Timothy Pitkin, A Statistical View of the Commerce of the United States of America (New York: James Eastburn, 1817), 246–247; William H. Ukers, All About Tea (New York: Tea and Coffee Trade Journal, 1935), 2:247.
45. Ukers, All About Tea, 2:250–251; Axel Madsen, John Jacob Astor: America’s First Multimillionaire (New York: Wiley, 2001), 53.
46. Thomas Beddoes, Hygëia, or, Essays Moral and Medical (London: R. Phillips, 1802), 35–38; Eggleston, “Colonists at Home,” 886; Kalm, Travels into North America, 185.
47. William Alcott, “Tea Drinking, Again,” Moral Reformer and Teacher on the Human Constitution 1 (1835): 301.
48. Dio Lewis, Weak Lungs, and How to Make Them Strong (Boston: Ticknor and Fields, 1863), 135.
49. Fanny Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans (New York: Reprinted for the Bookseller, 1832), 43–44, 107, 111, 132, 272, 297.
50. Ibid., 38, 245; Frederick Marryat, A Diary in America: With Remarks on Its Institutions (Paris: Baudry’s European Library, 1839), 44, 164.
51. Solon Robinson, How to Live: Saving and Wasting (New York: Fowler and Wells, 1860), 157; Marion Harland, Breakfast, Luncheon and Tea (New York: Scribner, 1875), 360–361; D. A. Lincoln, Boston Cook Book (Boston: Roberts, 1884), 112; Robert Somers, The Southern States Since the War (New York: Macmillan, 1871), 235; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 276.
52. Marc Levinson, The Great A&P and the Struggle for Small Business in America (New York: Hill and Wang, 2011), 16.
53. New York Journal of Commerce, March 21, 1902, 1, cited in John Peter Nichols, The Chain Store Tells its Story (New York: Institute of Distribution, 1942), 57.
54. “Holiday Goods, the Great American Tea Company,” New York Times, December 24, 1872; William I. Walsh, The Rise and Decline of the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company (Secaucus, N.J.: Lyle Stuart, 1986), 20–32.
55. “India,” in The Official Directory of the World’s Columbian Exposition, ed. Moses P. Handy and Richard Blechynden (Chicago: Conkey, 1893), 128; “Wonderful Foreign Exhibits,” Dun’s Review 4 (1904): 56; Pamela J. Vaccaro, Beyond the Ice Cream Cone: The Whole Scoop on Food at the 1904 World’s Fair (St. Louis: Enid Press, 2004), 108–111.
56. Levinson, Great A&P and the Struggle for Small Business in America, 52.
57. Jan Whitaker, Tea at the Blue Lantern Inn: A Social History of the Tea Room Craze in America (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2002), 10–11.
58. Many secondary sources claim that Thomas Sullivan, a New York tea distributor, invented the tea bag in 1904 or 1908; if so, no primary source evidence for this has surfaced, and Sullivan’s obituaries make no mention of it; neither does Ukers in All About Tea. The Sullivan story appears to be a late-twentieth-century invention.
59. Ukers, All About Tea, 2:79–81, 422–424, 443.
60. Laura C. Martin, Tea: The Drink That Changed the World (Rutland, Vt.: Tuttle, 2007), 190.
4. Tarantula Juice
1. Henry G. Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon: The Early Years of Whiskeymaking (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2008), 19.
2. Johann David Schöpf, Travels in the Confederation, trans. and ed. Alfred James Morrison (Philadelphia: Campbell, 1911), 2:183–184; Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon, 9–12.
3. Charles Woodmason, “The Journal of C. W. Clerk: Itinerant Minister in South Carolina, 1766, 1767, 1768,” in The Carolina Backcountry on the Eve of the Revolution, ed. Richard J. Hooker (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1953), 30, 53, and “A Report on Religion in the South: The New Lights Now Infest the Whole Backcountry,” in Hooker, Carolina Backcountry, 78; Berton Roueche, The Neutral Spirit (Boston: Little, Brown, 1960), 39–40.
4. Israel Acrelius, “Drinks Used in North America,” in A History of New Sweden, ed. William M. Reynolds (Ann Arbor, Mich.: Readex Microprint, 1966), 161, 163; John E. Wright and Doris S. Corbett, Pioneer Life in Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 1940), 60–61; Woodmason, “Journal of C. W. Clerk,” 30, 53.
5. Israel Daniel Rupp, Early History of Western Pennsylvania, and of the West (Pittsburgh: D. W. Kauffman, 1846), 272.
6. William Hogeland, The Whiskey Rebellion: George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, and the Frontier (New York: Scribner, 2006), 67.
7. Thomas P. Slaughter, The Whiskey Rebellion: Frontier Epilogue to the American Revolution (New York: Oxford University Press, 1986), 64.
8. Hogeland, Whiskey Rebellion, 66.
9. Harry M. Ward, George Washington’s Enforcers: Policing the Continental Army (Carbondale: Southern Illinois University Press, 2006), 23.
10. Benjamin Rush to John Adams, October 31, 1777, quoted in Alyn Brodsky, Benjamin Rush: Patriot and Physician (New York: Truman Talley Books, 2004), 191.
11. L. H. Butterfield, “Dr. Benjamin Rush’s Journal of a Trip to Carlisle in 1784,” Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 74 (1950): 456.
12. Benjamin Rush, An Enquiry into the Effects of Spirituous Liquors upon the Human Body, and Their Influence upon the Happiness of Society (Philadelphia: Thomas Bradford, 1784); Brian S. Katcher, “Benjamin Rush’s Educational Campaign Against Hard Drinking,” American Journal of Public Health 83 (1993): 273–276; Carl Alfred Lanning Binger, Revolutionary Doctor: Benjamin Rush, 1746–1813 (New York: Norton, 1966), 199.
13. College of Physicians of Philadelphia, “Memorial on Temperance, Addressed to the Congress of the United States,” in Transactions of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia, 3rd ser. (Philadelphia: College of Physicians, 1887), 9:ccxv.
14. Alexander Hamilton, “Report on Public Credit,” in Reports of the Secretary of the Treasury of the United States (Washington, D.C.: Blair & Reves, 1837), 1:23.
15. Leland D. Baldwin, Whiskey Rebels: The Story of a Frontier Uprising (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 1939), 56.
16. “The Petition of the Inhabitants of Westmoreland County, 1790,” in Pennsylvania Archives (Philadelphia: Joseph Severns, 1854), 11:671.
17. Register of Debates in Congress (Washington, D.C.: Gales & Seaton, 1825), 2:1692–1693.
18. College of Physicians of Philadelphia, “Memorial on Temperance,” 9:ccxvii; “The Humble Address of Ten Thousand Federal Maids,” Gazette of the United States, January 26, 1791, in Public Women, Public Words: A Documentary History of American Feminism, ed. Dawn Keetley and John Pettegrew (Madison, Wis.: Madison House, 1997), 46–47; Gazette of the United States, February 12, 1791, cited in Slaughter, Whiskey Rebellion, 100, 252.
19. Kevin T. Barksdale, “Our Rebellious Neighbors: Virginia’s Border Counties During Pennsylvania’s Whiskey Rebellion,” Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 111 (2003): 10.
20. Ron Chernow, Alexander Hamilton (New York: Penguin Press, 2004), 342; Hogeland, Whiskey Rebellion, 62.
21. Alexander Hamilton, “Report on the Difficulties in the Execution of the Act Laying Duties on Distilled Spirits,” in The Papers of Alexander Hamilton, ed. Harold C. Syrett (New York: Columbia University Press, 1962), 11:96.
23. George Washington, The Writings of George Washington (Boston: Russell, Shattuck, and Williams, 1836), 10:532.
24. Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon, 96.
25. Peter S. Onuf, Establishing the New Regime: The Washington Administration (New York: Garland, 1991), 281.
26. Mary K. Bonsteel Tachau, “A New Look at the Whiskey Rebellion,” in The Whiskey Rebellion: Past and Present Perspectives, ed. Steven Boyd (Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 1985), 97–118; Roland M. Baumann, “Philadelphia’s Manufacturers and the Excise Tax of 1794: The Forging of the Jeffersonian Coalition,” in Boyd, Whiskey Rebellion, 135–164; David W. Maurer, Kentucky Moonshine (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2003), 19–20.
27. Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon, 92–93.
28. Barksdale, “Our Rebellious Neighbors,” 16–18; Onuf, Establishing the New Regime, 281.
29. F. A. Michaux, quoted in “Review,” Literary Miscellany 2 (1806): 388.
30. Slaughter, Whiskey Rebellion, 223.
31. John Melish, Travels Through the United States of America, in the Years 1806 & 1807, and 1809, 1810, and 1811 (Philadelphia: Palmer, 1812), 312.
32. Richard F. Burton, The City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Mountains to California (New York: Harper, 1862), 24; Robert Brown, The Countries of the World (New York: Cassell, Petter & Gilpin, 1876), 2:27; Thomas Augustus Bland, Life of Alfred B. Meacham (Washington, D.C.: Bland, 1883), 17; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 200.
33. William F. Shughart, Taxing Choice: The Predatory Politics of Fiscal Discrimination (New Brunswick, N.J.: Transaction, 1997), 182.
34. David O. Whitten, “An Economic Inquiry into the Whiskey Rebellion of 1794,” Agricultural History 49 (1975): 491.
35. Crowgey, Kentucky Bourbon, xi.
5. Cider’s Last Hurrah
1. Baltimore Republican, December 11, 1839, quoted in Robert Gray Gunderson, The Log-Cabin Campaign (Lexington: University of Kentucky Press, 1957), 74.
2. Isaac Rand Jackson, A Sketch of the Life and Public Services of General William Henry Harrison (St. Louis: Churchill & Harris, 1840), 40; Richard Smith Elliott, Notes Taken in Sixty Years (St. Louis: Studley, 1883), 120–121.
3. Ephraim Hubbard Foster, Hard Cider: A Poem, Descriptive of the Nashville Convention (Louisville, Ky., 1840).
4. A. B. Norton, The Great Revolution of 1840: Reminiscences of the Log Cabin and Hard Cider Campaign (Mount Vernon, Ohio: Norton, 1888), 52.
7. Norton, Great Revolution of 1840, 213.
8. Richard Carwardine, “Evangelicals, Whigs and the Election of William Henry Harrison,” Journal of American Studies 17 (1983): 47–75.
9. Norton, Great Revolution of 1840, 287.
10. Elliott, Notes Taken in Sixty Years, 126.
11. John Winthrop, The History of New England from 1630 to 1649 (Boston: Little, Brown, 1853), 2:417.
12. “Chap. XXI of the Suddain and Unexpected Fall of Cattel,” in Johnson’s Wonder-Working Providence, 1628–1651, ed. J. Franklin Jameson (New York: Scribner, 1910), 210.
13. Sarah F. McMahon, “A Comfortable Subsistence: The Changing Composition of Diet in Rural New England, 1620–1840,” William and Mary Quarterly, 3rd ser., 42 (1985): 42–43.
14. Israel Acrelius, History of New Sweden, trans. William M. Reynolds (Philadelphia: Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1874), 161; Alice Morse Earle, Home Life in Colonial Days (New York: Macmillan, 1898), 162.
15. New England Farmer, quoted in The Balance and Columbian Repository, September 6, 1803, 284; Alice Morse Earle, Stage-coach and Tavern Days (New York: Macmillan, 1900), 130–131.
16. John T. Krumpelmann, “Timothy Flint, Contributor of Americanisms, 1826,” American Speech 44 (1969): 138.
17. John Josselyn, An Account of Two Voyages to New-England, 2nd ed. (London: G. Widdowes, 1675), 190–191.
18. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 36.
19. Acrelius, History of New Sweden, 161; Oscar Kuhns, The German and Swiss Settlements of Colonial Pennsylvania (New York: Abingdon Press, 1914), 110; Susan M. Burke and Matthew H. Hill, From Pennsylvania to Waterloo: Pennsylvania-German Folk Culture in Transition (Kitchener, Ont.: J. Schneider Haus, 1991), 97.
20. Acrelius, History of New Sweden, 161.
21. Burke and Hill, From Pennsylvania to Waterloo, 97.
22. William Alexander Alcott, The Young House-keeper: Or, Thoughts on Food and Cookery, 5th ed. (Boston: George W. Light, 1842), 281.
24. The American Cook Book: One Thousand Recipes (New York: Hearst, 1901), 78–79, 358; A Book of Beverages (Worcester, Mass.: Colonel Timothy Bigelow Chapter of Daughters of the American Revolution, 1904), 1, 5, 7, 22, 25; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 85.
25. Acrelius, History of New Sweden, 161.
26. Alice Felt Tyler, Freedom’s Ferment: Phases of American Social History to 1860 (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1944), 310.
27. Edward Field, The Colonial Tavern (Providence, R.I.: Preston and Rounds, 1897), 138–141; Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, Physiology of Taste, trans. Anne Drayton (Harmondsworth: Penguin Books, 1994), 78.
28. Ulysses Prentiss Hedrick, A History of Agriculture in the State of New York (New York: Hill and Wang, 1966), 226; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 131.
29. Axel Klinkowström, Baron Klinkowström’s America, 1818–1820 (Evanston, Ill.: Northwestern University Press, 1952), 69.
30. Alice Morse Earle, Customs and Fashions in Old New England (New York: Scribner, 1893), 173.
31. Newton D. Mereness, Travels in the American Colonies (New York: Macmillan, 1916), 406.
32. Acrelius, History of New Sweden, 161.
33. Médéric Moreau de Saint-Méry, “Route Between Philadelphia and New York,” in Moreau de St. Méry’s American Journey, trans. and ed. Kenneth Roberts and Anna M. Roberts (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1947), 114.
34. Douglas Freeman, George Washington: A Biography (New York: Scribner, 1951), 3:72.
35. War Department, Surgeon General’s Office, A Report on the Hygiene of the United States Army, Circular 8 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1875), xix.
36. John Adams, “Introspections July 28, 1796,” in The Wisdom of John Adams, ed. Kees De Mooy (New York: Citadel Press, 2003), 82.
37. Thomas Jefferson, “To Ellen W. Coolidge, March 19, 1826,” in The Writings of Thomas Jefferson, ed. Albert Ellery Bergh (Washington, D.C.: Thomas Jefferson Memoir Association, 1907), 18: 353.
38. J. P. Brissot de Warville, “Letters,” in New Travels in the United States of America, 1788, ed. Durand Echeverria (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University, 1964), 91.
39. Howard Means, Johnny Appleseed: The Man, the Myth, the American Story (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2011), 54, 61–65.
40. Ibid., 8–9; W. D. Haley, “Johnny Appleseed, a Pioneer Hero,” Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, November 1871, 830–837.
41. Benjamin Rush, “A Moral and Physical Thermometer, Or, a Scale of the Progress of Temperance and Intemperance. Liquors, with Effects in Their Usual Order,” in An Inquiry into the Effects of Spiritous Liquors on the Human Body (Boston: Thomas and Andrews, 1790), 16.
42. H. K. Carroll, “Total Abstinence Through the Century,” in One Hundred Years of Temperance: A Memorial Volume of the Centennial Temperance Conference Held in Philadelphia, Pa., September, 1885 (New York: National Temperance Society and Publication House, 1886), 137.
44. Alcott, Young House-keeper, 281.
45. William Alcott, “Record of Reform,” Moral Reformer and Teacher on the Human Constitution 1 (1835): 380.
46. Carwardine, “Evangelicals, Whigs and the Election of William Henry Harrison,” 59.
47. Carroll, “Total Abstinence Through the Century,” 137–141.
48. Ellen G. White, Christian Temperance and Bible Hygiene (Battle Creek, Mich.: Good Health Publishing, 1890), 33.
49. “Condensed Apple Juice,” American Agriculturalist 23 (1864): 79.
50. R. T. Trall, “Sweet Cider,” Herald of Health 2 (1863): 181.
51. “Manufacturers Win a Victory in Contest over Provisions of the Volstead Prohibition Enforcement Act,” American Food Journal 17 (1922): 52.
52. Erika Janik, Apples: A Global History (London: Reaktion Books, 2011).
53. Michael Pollan, The Botany of Desire: A Plant’s-Eye View of the World (New York: Random House, 2001).
6. The Most Popular Drink of the Day
1. The first located reference to Johann Wagner’s brewing lager beer appeared in Edwin Troxell Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures: A Hand-book Exhibiting the Development, Variety and Statistics of Manufacturing Industry in Philadelphia in 1857 (Philadelphia: Edward Young, 1858), 196; John Leander Bishop, Edwin Troxell Freedley, and Edward Young, A History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860, 3rd ed. (Philadelphia: Edward Young, 1868), 3:81; Hermann Schlüter, The Brewing Industry and the Brewery Workers’ Movement in America (Cincinnati: International Union of United Brewery Workmen of America, 1910), 52. After he left Philadelphia, Wagner may have migrated west, ending up in St. Louis. There is a John Wagner who sold lager beer in St. Louis during the 1850s.
2. Laurel Thatcher Ulrich, Good Wives: Image and Reality in the Lives of Women in Northern New England, 1650–1750 (New York: Vintage, 1991), 23.
3. Israel Acrelius, A History of New Sweden, trans. William M. Reynolds (Philadelphia: Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1874), 163.
4. W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979), 108–109.
5. Tench Coxe, A Statement of the Arts and Manufactures of the United States of America, for the Year 1810 (Philadelphia: Cornman, 1814), xl.
6. Gallus Thomann, Liquor Laws of the United States: Their Spirit and Effect (New York: United States Brewers’ Association, 1885), 124.
7. Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
8. Joel Munsell, Reminiscences of Men and Things in Northfield as I Knew Them from 1812 to 1825 (Albany, N.Y.: Munsell, 1876), 6.
9. Coxe, Statement of the Arts and Manufactures of the United States of America, 22; Thomann, Liquor Laws of the United States, 123–124.
10. Bishop, Freedley, and Young, History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860, 3:81.
11. Mark A. Noon, Yuengling: A History of America’s Oldest Brewery (Jefferson, N.C.: McFarland, 2005), 9.
12. Richard W. Unger, Beer in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2004), 149, 153.
13. “Lager Beer: Its History Manufacture and Consumption in the United States,” New York Tribune, October 3, 1854, 5.
14. Kim Carpenter, “‘We Demand Good and Healthy Beer: The Nutritional and Social Significance of Beer for the Lower Classes in Mid-Nineteenth-Century Munich,” in The City and the Senses: Urban Culture Since 1500, ed. Alexander Cowan and Jill Steward (Aldershot, Eng.: Ashgate, 2007), 140–141.
15. “Lager Beer,” New York Tribune, 5.
16. Jeffrey S. Gaab, Munich: Hofbräuhaus and History: Beer, Culture, and Politics (New York: Lang, 2006), 29.
17. Maldwyn Allen Jones, American Immigration (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1960), 93.
19. Hasia R. Diner, Hungering for America: Italian, Irish, and Jewish Foodways in the Age of Migration (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 2001), 140.
20. “Lager Beer,” Ledger, December 1, 1849, 2; “Lager Beer,” Public Ledger, December 4, 1849, 3; “Our Philadelphia Correspondence,” New York Herald, August 16, 1850, 3; “Lager Beer,” Trenton State Gazette, March 7, 1850, 4; “Our German Population,” Boston Evening Transcript, August 11, 1851, 2; “Baltimore Correspondence,” Times Picayune, January 9, 1852, 1; “Lager Beer,” New York Tribune, 5; “Lager Beer,” Mountain Democrat (Placerville, Calif.), September 15, 1855, 4; Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures, 196; J. Burnitz Bacon, “Lager Beer in America: How It Came Here, What It Should Be, What It Is,” Frank Leslie’s Popular Monthly, August 1882, 215; “Manufacturing Interests of Albany,” in Bi-Centennial History of Albany: History of the County of Albany, ed. George Rogers Howell and Jonathan Tenney (New York: Munsell, 1886), 557; One Hundred Years of Brewing: A Supplement to the Western Brewer, 1903 (Chicago: Rich, 1903), 203; Schlüter, Brewing Industry and the Brewery Workers’ Movement in America, 52.
21. “Lager Beer,” New York Tribune, 5.
22. One Hundred Years of Brewing, 207.
23. John Thomas Scharf and Thompson Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 1609–1884 (Philadelphia: L. H. Evertts, 1884), 2:2281.
24. Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures, 197.
25. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2281.
27. “Our German Population,” 2.
28. Bishop, Freedley, and Young, History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860, 3:81; George Ehret, Twenty-five Years of Brewing: With an Illustrated History of American Beer (New York: Gast Lithograph & Engraving, 1891), 40.
29. “Lager Beer,” Trenton State Gazette, 4.
31. William Vollmer, The United States Cook Book, trans. J. C. Oehlschlager (Philadelphia: John Weik, 1856), 24.
32. Georg von Skal, History of German Immigration in the United States (New York, 1908), 193; Schlüter, Brewing Industry and the Brewery Workers’ Movement in America, 52.
33. “Lager Beer,” New York Tribune, 5; “Breweries and Lager Bier,” Bankers Magazine, February 1857, 600–602.
34. “Lager Bier—Changes in the Beverages of the City,” New York Times, September 17, 1855.
35. Junius Henri Browne, The Great Metropolis: A Mirror of New York (Hartford, Conn.: American Publishing, 1869), 160; “The Home Field,” Christian World, August 1864, 247.
36. Kenneth G. Elzinga, “Beer,” in The Structure of American Industry, 9th ed., ed. Walter Adams and James W. Brock (Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, 1995), 120–121.
37. Lewis Feuchtwanger, Fermented Liquors (New York: Feuchtwanger, 1858), 28–29.
38. Yankee Notions, November 1852, 344; Swilly Willy Wink, or the Lager Bier Song (Philadelphia: John H. Johnson, 1858); “Lager Beer,” Mountain Democrat; “A Tale of Lager Bier,” Emerson’s Magazine and Putnam’s Monthly, October 1957, 469–470; Hans Punder, “A Little More LA,” The Agitator, April 26, 1860, 4.
39. George Henry Thurston, Pittsburgh as It Is: Or, Facts and Figures, Exhibiting the Past and Present (Pittsburgh: W. S. Haven, 1857), 151.
40. Charles Cist, Sketches and Statistics of Cincinnati in 1859 (Cincinnati, 1859), 246.
41. Weekly Vincennes (Ind.) Western Sun, April 3, 1858.
42. Thomas C. Cochran, The Pabst Brewing Company (New York: New York University Press, 1948), 22, 56, 70.
43. The New World in 1859: Being the United States and Canada (New York: Bailliere, 1859), 98; Allan Nevins, The Emergence of Modern America, 1865–1878 (New York: Macmillan, 1927), 46.
44. “Lager Beer Trade at St. Louis,” St. Louis Intelligencer, quoted in Hunt’s Merchants’ Magazine and Commercial Review, November 1854, 606–607.
45. “German Almanacks for 1860,” Bentley’s Miscellany 46 (1859): 568.
46. Joseph A. Dacus and James William Buel, A Tour of St. Louis: Or, the Inside Life of a Great City (St. Louis: Western Publishing, 1878), 478.
47. Ronald Plavchan, “A History of Anheuser-Busch, 1852–1933” (Ph.D. diss., St. Louis University, 1960), 26–27.
48. Harry Dwight Nims, The Law of Unfair Competition and Trademarks, 2nd ed. (New York: Baker, Voorhis, 1921), 219; Plavchan, “History of Anheuser-Busch,” 37; Eoghan P. Miller, “St. Louis’s German Brewing Industry: Its Rise and Fall” (Ph.D. diss., University of Missouri, 2008), 7–8, 13–32.
49. Isaac D. Guyer, History of Chicago: Its Commercial and Manufacturing Interests and Industry (Chicago: Church, Goodman & Cushing, 1862), 42–43.
50. “New Liquor Law,” National Era, October 12, 1854.
51. Richard Willson Renner, “In a Perfect Ferment: Chicago, the Know-Nothings and the Riot for Lager Beer,” Chicago History 5 (1976): 161–170.
52. “Germany in New York,” Atlantic Monthly, May 1867, 560, 564.
53. Francis Wyatt, “The Influence of Science in Modern Brewing,” Journal of the Franklin Institute 150 (1900): 194.
54. Henry Anders, “An Analysis of Lagerbier: As Medicinal and Dietetic Qualities,” American Homoeopathic Review 1 (1858): 129–131.
55. “Lager Beer,” New York Herald, in the Weekly Vincennes Western Sun, June 25, 1859.
56. Journal of Proceedings of the Grand Division of the Sons of Temperance of the State of Pennsylvania (Philadelphia: Wm. F. Geddes, 1850), 54–58.
57. Bell Irvin Wiley, The Life of Billy Yank: The Common Soldier of the Union (Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2008), 252.
58. Cochran, Pabst Brewing Company, 177.
59. J. S. Ingram, The Centennial Exposition (Philadelphia: Hubbard, 1876), 450–451; A Memorial of the International Temperance Conference, Held in Philadelphia, June, 1876 (New York: National Temperance Society and Publication House, 1877), 307, 532–533.
60. James Dabney McCabe, The Illustrated History of the Centennial Exhibition, Held in Commemoration of the One Hundredth (Philadelphia: National Publishing, 1876), 62; “Centennial Fair,” New York Tribune, May 17, 1876, 1; Donald G. Mitchell, “In and About the Fair,” Scribner’s Monthly, November 1876, 116; Julia Coleman, “Beer and Bread,” Phrenological Journal and Science of Health 71 (1880): 230.
61. Eugene F. Weigel, “Beer: History and Advancement of the Art of Brewing,” in Report of the Committee on Awards of the World’s Columbian Commission: 1893 Special Reports upon Special Subjects or Groups in Two Volumes (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1901), 2:990.
62. Bishop, Freedley, and Young, History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860, 3:81; Ehret, Twenty-five Years of Brewing, 40.
63. Audrey L. Olson, St. Louis Germans, 1850–1920: The Nature of an Immigrant Community (New York: Arno Press, 1980), 214; Clifford Neal Smith, Early Nineteenth-Century German Settlers in Ohio (McNeal, Ariz.: Westland, 1984), 43.
64. “Germany in New York,” 560.
65. Sunday Milwaukee Telegram, April 16, 1922, in William George Bruce, History of Milwaukee, City and County (Chicago: Clarke, 1922), 1:782–783; H. Russell Austin, The Milwaukee Story: The Making of an American City (Milwaukee: Milwaukee Journal, 1946), 143.
66. Browne, Great Metropolis, 159–166.
67. James Dabney McCabe, Lights and Shadows of New York Life (Philadelphia: National Publishing, 1872), 550; Charles Haynes Haswell, Reminiscences of New York by an Octogenarian (New York: Harper, 1896), 360; Robert Ernst, Immigrant Life in New York City, 1825–1863 (New York: King’s Crown Press, 1949), 125.
68. Frederick W. Hackwood, Inns, Ales, and Drinking Customs of Old England (London: Unwin, 1909), 59–79.
69. George Ade, The Old-Time Saloon (New York: Long & Smith, 1931), 26–28, 86; Madelon Powers, Faces Along the Bar: Lore and Order in the Workingman’s Saloon, 1870–1920 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998), 89.
70. John Marshall Barker, The Saloon Problem and Social Reform (Boston: Everett Press, 1905), v, 49–50.
71. Plavchan, “History of Anheuser-Busch,” 93–94, 114; Cochran, Pabst Brewing Company, 221.
72. Plavchan, “History of Anheuser-Busch,” 114; Cochran, Pabst Brewing Company, 145; Powers, Faces Along the Bar, 242–243.
73. Raymond Calkins, Substitutes for the Saloon (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1901), 25; Plavchan, “History of Anheuser-Busch,” 94–95.
74. Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Snares of Old New York (New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1991), 105; Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
75. Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
77. Joint Committee on Taxation, “Excise Tax on Certain Trucks; Home Production of Beer and Wine; Fuels Tax Refund to Aerial Applicators; Rollovers of Lump Sum Distributions,” 95th Cong., 1979, H.R. 1337 (P.L. 95–458), 3; Hayagreeva Rao, Market Rebels: How Activists Make or Break Radical Innovations (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 2009), 52–53.
78. Rao, Market Rebels, 42.
80. Bishop, Freedley, and Young, History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860, 3:81; Ehret, Twenty-five Years of Brewing, 40.
7. Nature’s Perfect Food
1. Robert M. Hartley, An Historical, Scientific, and Practical Essay on Milk, as an Article of Human Sustenance: With a Consideration of the Effects Consequent upon the Present Unnatural Methods of Producing It for the Supply of Large Cities (New York: Leavitt, 1842), 220; Edward K. Spann, The New Metropolis: New York City, 1840–1857 (New York: Columbia University Press, 1981), 123.
2. Hartley, Historical, Scientific, and Practical Essay on Milk, 34; E. Melanie DuPuis, “The Body and the Country: A Political Ecology of Consumption,” in New Forms of Consumption: Consumers, Culture, and Commodification, ed. Mark Gottdiener (Lanham, Md.: Rowman & Littlefield, 2000), 138.
3. “The Relation of Lord De-La-Ware, 1611,” in Narratives of Early Virginia, 1606–1625, ed. Lyon Gardiner Tyler (New York: Scribner, 1907), 213.
4. “Extract of a Letter of Captain Thomas Yong to Sir Toby Matthew, 1634,” in Narratives of Early Maryland, 1633–1684, ed. Clayton Colman Hall (New York: Scribner, 1910), 60.
5. Jack P. Greene, Landon Carter: An Inquiry into the Personal Values and Social Imperatives of the Eighteenth-Century Virginia Gentry (Charlottesville: University Press of Virginia, 1965), 1:211.
6. The Secret Diary of William Byrd of Westover, 1709–1712, ed. Louis B. Wright and Marion Tinling (Richmond: Dietz Press, 1941), 3, 7, 8, 11, 32, 41, 57, 122, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 354, 404.
7. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 21.
8. George Francis Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony (Boston: Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, 1935), 98.
9. T. R. Pirtle, History of the Dairy Industry (Chicago: Mojonnier, 1926), 17; Mary Caroline Crawford, Social Life in Old New England (Boston: Little, Brown, 1914), 249; Dow, Every Day Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, 98; Bayrd Still, Mirror for Gotham: New York as Seen by Contemporaries from Dutch Days to the Present (New York: New York University Press, 1956), 25–26; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 32–33.
10. Crawford, Social Life in Old New England, 249.
11. Reverend Jonas Michaëlius, “Letter, 1628,” in Narratives of New Netherland, 1609–1664, ed. J. Franklin Jameson (New York: Scribner, 1909), 132.
12. Pehr Kalm, Travels into North America (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme and Brown, 1812), 346–347.
13. Israel Acrelius, A History of New Sweden, trans. William M. Reynolds (Philadelphia: Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1874), 158, 162, 163, 164, 381, 415.
14. Fredrika Bremer and Mary Botham Howitt, The Homes of the New World: Impressions of America (New York: Harper, 1853), 1:63, 280, 281, 521.
15. Edwin James, Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains Performed in the Years 1819, 1820 (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme and Brown, 1823), 1:77.
16. Sarah Kemble Knight, The Private Journal of a Journey from Boston to New York in the Year 1704 Kept by Madam Knight (Albany, N.Y.: F. H. Little, 1865), 33; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 58, 66, 86, 92, 124.
17. John J. Dillon, Seven Decades of Milk: A History of New York’s Dairy Industry (New York: Orange Judd, 1941), 1.
18. Esther Singleton, Social New York Under the Georges, 1714–1776 (New York: Appleton, 1902), 358.
19. Dillon, Seven Decades of Milk, 1.
21. Ibid.; Charles E. Rosenberg, No Other Gods: On Science and American Social Thought, 2nd ed. (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1997), 118; Richard A. Meckel, Save the Babies: American Public Health Reform and the Prevention of Infant Mortality (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 1998), 64; E. Melanie DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food: How Milk Became America’s Drink (New York: New York University Press, 2002), 21–35.
22. Hartley, Historical, Scientific, and Practical Essay on Milk, 198–200; Isaac Smithson Hartley, Memorial of Robert Milham Hartley (Utica, N.Y.: Curtiss & Childs, 1882), 156–165.
23. Hartley, Memorial of Robert Milham Hartley, 168.
24. “Diseased Milk and Meat,” New York Tribune, June 6, 1849; “Milk in Cities,” New York Tribune, January 18, 1853; Mitchel Okun, Fair Play in the Market Place: The First Battle for Pure Food and Drugs (Dekalb: Northern Illinois University Press, 1986), 9–10; Meckel, Save the Babies, 64.
25. John Mullaly, The Milk Trade of New York and Vicinity, Giving an Account of the Sale of Pure and Adulterated Milk (New York: Fowlers and Wells, 1853).
26. “New York City: Adjourned Meeting of the Board of Health Committee. The Swill Milk Nuisance,” New York Times, August 23, 1854, 6; “New York City: Adulterations of Food at Home and Abroad,” New York Times, June 12, 1855, 1; “Hard Times in the City: A Dull Season for Distillers” New York Times, October 28, 1857, 1; “More Arrests of Milk Wagons,” New York Times, May 14, 1858, 4.
27. “Startling Exposure of the Milk Trade of New York and Brooklyn,” Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper, May 8, 1858, 353–354, 359.
28. David Marshall Owen, “Four Hundred Years of Milk in America,” New York History 31 (1950): 452.
29. “Swill Milk: History of the Agitation of the Subject—The Recent Report of the Committee of the New York Academy of Medicine,” New York Times, January 27, 1860, 2.
30. Meckel, Save the Babies, 65.
31. X. A. Willard, Willard’s Practical Dairy Husbandry (New York: American News, 1872), 214.
32. Dillon, Seven Decades of Milk, 4.
33. DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 35.
34. Dillon, Seven Decades of Milk, 2–3.
35. Willard, Willard’s Practical Dairy Husbandry, 247.
36. Austin Flint, A Treatise on the Principles and Practices of Medicine, cited in Meckel, Save the Babies, 68. For a summary of the research on milk adulterations at the time, see “Distillery Milk Report,” Science, July 1, 1887, 4–7.
37. Arthur M. Schlesinger, Paths to the Present, rev. ed. (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1964), 233.
38. Meckel, Save the Babies, 68–69.
40. Owen, “Four Hundred Years of Milk in America,” 460.
41. DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 39, 72.
42. Pauline Arnold and Percival White, Food: America’s Biggest Business (New York: Holiday House, 1959), 176.
43. Henry Alvord, “Dairy Development in the United States,” in U.S. Department of Agriculture, Yearbook of Agriculture, 1899 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1900), 381.
44. Mary Ronald, The Century Cook Book (New York: Century, 1897), 257.
45. W. G. Marshall, Through America: Or, Nine Months in the United States, 2nd ed. (New York: Arno Press, 1974), 98.
46. Henry A. Alford, “The Milk Question,” in Annual Report of the Secretary of the Board of Agriculture for 1882 (Boston: Wright & Potter, 1883), 49.
47. M. P. Catherwood, Statistical Study of Milk Production for the New York Market, cited in DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 41.
48. DuPuis, “Body and the Country,” 148–150.
49. William H. Allen, Civics and Health (Boston: Ginn, 1909), 260; DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 72–73, 109.
50. DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 72–73.
51. DuPuis, “Body and the Country,” 148; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 341.
52. Lisa Nicole Mills, Science and Social Context: The Regulation of Recombinant Bovine Growth Hormone in North America (Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2002); Nina Redman, Food Safety: A Reference Handbook (Santa Barbara, Calif.: ABC-CLIO, 2007), 57–58.
53. Anne Mendelson, e-mail to author, July 25, 2011.
54. DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 210.
55. Rosenberg, No Other Gods, 109; DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food, 21.
8. The Most Delightful and Insinuating Potations
1. “List of New Works,” American Publishers’ Circular and Literary Gazette, June 4, 1859, 271; David Wondrich, Imbibe: From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar (New York: Perigee, 2007), 285.
2. Elizabeth Moxon, English Housewifry: Exemplified in Above Four Hundred and Fifty Receipts (Leeds: Griffin Wright, 1763), 145.
3. Isaac Weld, Travels Through the States of North America, 1795, 1796 & 1797 (London: J. Stockdale, 1799), 81.
4. Israel Acrelius, A History of New Sweden, trans. William M. Reynolds (Philadelphia: Historical Society of Pennsylvania, 1874), 162.
5. C. Anne Wilson, Food and Drink in Britain (London: Constable, 1973), 403.
6. Weld, Travels Through the States of North America, 360; John E. Wright and Doris S. Corbett, Pioneer Life in Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 1940), 60.
7. Constantin-François de Volney, View of the Climate and Soil of the United States of America (London: Johnson, 1804), 288.
8. Isaac Holmes, An Account of the United States of America (London: Caxton Press, 1823), 352; William Howard Russell, My Diary North and South (Boston: Burnham, 1863), 210; Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 138.
9. Holmes, Account of the United States of America, 352.
10. Captain J. E. Alexander, Transatlantic Sketches (Philadelphia: Key and Biddle, 1833), 368.
12. Eliza Leslie, Miss Leslie’s New Cookery Book (Philadelphia: R. B. Peterson, 1857), 610; John Russell Bartlett, Bartlett’s Dictionary of Americanisms, 2nd ed. (Boston: Little, Brown, 1859), 90.
13. Frederick Marryat, A Diary in America: With Remarks on Its Institutions (Paris: Baudry’s European Library, 1839), 38.
15. Charles F. Hoffman, Wild Scenes in the Forest and Prairie: With Sketches of American Life (New York: William H. Colyer, 1843), 1:144; Bartlett, Bartlett’s Dictionary of Americanisms, 90, 223, 273.
16. Washington Irving, A History of New York, in The Works of Washington Irving (New York: Putnam, 1809), 1:395.
17. James Fenimore Cooper, The Spy, rev. ed. (London: Henry Colburn, 1831), 185.
18. “To the Editor of The Balance,” Balance, and Columbian Repository, May 13, 1806, 146.
19. “Journal of a Tour Through the Eastern States,” St. Tammany’s Magazine, December 17, 1821, 72; Alexander, Transatlantic Sketches, 368; Edward Henry Durell, New Orleans as I Found It (New York: Harper, 1845), 25.
20. Elliot West, Saloon on Rocky Mountain Mining Frontier (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1979), 34–35, 91; Hooker, History of Food and Drink in America, 139.
21. Christine Sismondo, America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops (New York: Oxford University Press, 2011), 109; Wondrich, Imbibe, 9.
22. Marryat, Diary in America, 46.
23. William Henry Milburn, Ten Years of Preacher-Life (New York: Derby & Jackson, 1859), 236–237.
24. Thomas L. Nichols, Forty Years of American Life (London: J. Maxwell, 1864), 1:191, 195–196.
25. Alexander, Transatlantic Sketches, 368; Charles H. Haswell, Reminiscences of an Octogenarian of the City of New York (New York: Harper, 1897), 379; Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Snares of Old New York (New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1991), 104–105; Sismondo, America Walks into a Bar, 104–105; Madelon Powers, Faces Along the Bar: Lore and Order in the Workingman’s Saloon, 1870–192 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998), 17, 242–243.
26. John Frederick Fitzgerald De Ros, Personal Narrative of Travels in the United States and Canada in 1826 (London: William Harrison Ainsworth, 1827), 5.
27. Alexander, Transatlantic Sketches, 368; “The Mint Julep,” The Corsair, August 31, 1839, 395.
28. Wondrich, Imbibe, 13–35.
29. Edward Peron Hingston, The Genial Showman, Reminiscences of the Life of “Artemus Ward” (London: John Camden Hotten, 1870), 361.
30. The American Bar-Tender, Or, the Art and Mystery of Mixing Drinks (New York: Hurst, 1874); Harry Johnson, The New and Improved Illustrated Bartenders’ Manual; Or: How to Mix Drinks (New York: Johnson, 1882); O. H. Byron, The Modern Bartenders’ Guide (New York: Excelsior, 1884); Albert Barnes, The Complete Bartender (Philadelphia: Crawford, 1884); Naber, Alfs and Brune, Catalogue and Bartenders’ Guide: How to Mix Drinks (San Francisco: Schmidt, 1884); William T. Boothby, Cocktail Boothby’s American Bartender: The Only Practical Treatise on the Art of Mixology (San Francisco: H. S. Crocker, 1891); Henry J. Wehman, Wehman’s Bartender’s Guide, Or, the Art of Preparing All Kinds of Plain and Fancy Drinks Both Native and Foreign (New York: Wehman, 1891); Chris F. Lawlor, The Mixicologist (Cincinnati: Lawlor, 1895); Haney’s Steward & Barkeeper’s Manual (New York: Haney, 1896); Harry Lamore, The Bartender: Or, How to Mix Drinks, etc. (New York: R. K. Fox, 1896); Cocktails: How to Make Them (Providence: Livermore & Knight, 1898); J. Henry Schell, Mixed Drinks Up-to-Date (New York: Schell, 1900); John Applegreen, Applegreen’s Bartenders’ Guide, or How to Mix Drinks (Chicago: Hotel Monthly, 1901); Charles S. Mahoney and Harry Montague, New Bartender’s Guide: Telling How to Mix All the Standard and Popular Drinks Called for Everyday (New York: Royal, 1914); Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender (St. Louis: Buxton & Skinner, 1917).
31. Jerry Thomas, Bartender’s Guide: Or How to Mix Drinks (New York: Dick & Fitzgerald, 1862), 49–52, 106, 110, 114, 115.
32. Perry Duis, The Saloon: Public Drinking in Chicago and Boston, 1880–1920 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1999), 295.
33. Jerry Thomas, Jerry Thomas’ Bar-Tender’s Guide of How to Mix Drinks (New York: Dick & Fitzgerald, 1887), 24; William Grimes, Straight Up or On the Rocks: The Story of the American Cocktail (New York: North Point Press, 2001), 84–85; Wondrich, Imbibe, 236–240.
34. Thomas, Jerry Thomas’ Bar-Tender’s Guide, 25; Johnson, New and Improved Illustrated Bartenders’ Manual, 39–40; Barnaby Conrad III, The Martini: An Illustrated History of an American Classic (San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1995); Grimes, Straight Up or On the Rocks, 27–29; Wondrich, Imbibe, 243–244, 295–300.
35. George Edwin Roberts, Cups and Their Customs (London: John van Voorst, 1863), 30.
36. Thomas Colley Grattan, Civilized America (London: Bradbury and Evans, 1859), 1:62.
37. George Sala, Notes and Sketches of the Paris Exhibition (London: Tinsley Brothers, 1868), 374.
38. William Terrington, Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks (London: Routledge, 1869), v.
39. Andrew Barr, Drink: A Social History of America (New York: Carroll & Graf, 1999), 51.
40. Harry MacElhone, Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails: More Than 300 Famous Cocktails (London: Dean, 1919).
41. E. Ricket and C. Thomas, The Gentleman’s Table Guide: Being Practical Recipes for Wine Cups, American Drinks, Punches, Cordials, Summer and Winter Beverages (London: H. Born, 1871), 37–53.
42. George Ade, The Old-Time Saloon (New York: Long & Smith, 1931), 26–27.
43. Ibid., 26–28, 86; Powers, Faces Along the Bar, 89.
44. Stephen Birmingham, The Right People: A Portrait of the American Social Establishment (Boston: Little, Brown, 1968), 241–242; Barr, Drink, 49, 106–108.
45. Lucius Beebe and Charles Clegg, Narrow Gauge in the Rockies (Berkeley, Calif.: Howell-North, 1958), 30; Birmingham, Right People, 242–243, 246.
46. Norman Anthony, Noble Experiments (New York: Day, 1930); Johnny Brooks, My Thirty-five Years Behind Bars (New York: Exposition Press, 1954).
47. Victor J. Bergeron, Trader Vic’s Pacific Island Cookbook with Side Trips to Hong Kong, Southeast Asia, Mexico, and Texas (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1968), 184.
48. Marion Gorman and Felipe de Alba, The Tequila Book (Chicago: Contemporary Books, 1978), 78–80; John F. Mariani, America Eats Out: An Illustrated History of Restaurants, Taverns, Coffee Shops, Speakeasies, and Other Establishments That Have Fed Us for 350 Years (New York: Morrow, 1991), 81, and The Dictionary of American Food and Drink (New York: Hearst Books, 1994), 194; James Trager, The Food Chronology: A Food Lover’s Compendium of Events and Anecdotes, from Prehistory to the Present (New York: Holt, 1995), 467.
49. Advertisement, Puck, December 25, 1901.
50. Linda Himelstein, The King of Vodka: The Story of Pyotr Smirnov and the Upheaval of an Empire (New York: Harper, 2009), 320–324, 327–330.
51. The Club Cocktail Party Book (Hartford, Conn.: Heublein, 1941).
52. Bill Ryan, “Smirnoff Vodka: No Taste, No Smell,” New York Times, February 19, 1995.
53. Harry Craddock, comp., The Savoy Cocktail Book (London: Constable, 1930); Victor Bergeron, Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1947).
54. H. L. Mencken, “The Vocabulary of the Drinking Chamber,” New Yorker, November 5, 1948, 108–109.
55. “Joseph Carlin,” interview with author, July 18, 2011.
56. David Wondrich, “Paying Homage, a Bit Belatedly, to a Mix Master of Renown,” New York Times, October 10, 2004.
9. Unfermented Wine
1. M. Stewart, Scriptural View of the Wine: Question, in a Letter to the Rev. Dr. Nott, President of Union College (New York: Leavitt Trow, 1848), 53; Frederic Richard Lees, The Temperance Bible Commentary: Giving at One View, Version, Criticism, and Exposition, in Regard to All Passages of Holy Writ Bearing on “Wine” and “Strong Drink” (New York: Sheldon, 1870), 431; Frederick Powell, Bacchus Dethroned: Prize Essay (New York: National Temperance Society and Publication House, 1873), 211.
2. “The Wine Question,” Christian Review, March 1836, 139; Lewis Mayer, “Is It Morally Wrong to Drink Wine or Strong Drink, Which When Taken in Excess Produces Intoxication?” American Biblical Repository, 2nd ser., 2 (1839):421; “Nephalism,” Medical Times and Gazette, February 9, 1861, 147.
3. William Chazanof, Welch’s Grape Juice: From Corporation to Co-operative (Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1977), 78.
4. Edward Deming Andrews and Faith Andrews, Work and Worship Among the Shakers (New York: Dover, 1982), 67.
5. Oneida Community Limited, Packers of Choice Fruits, Vegetables, Jellies, Fruit Juices, Poultry & Soups (Oneida, N.Y.: Oneida Community, 1885).
6. Estelle Woods Wilcox, comp., Centennial Buckeye Cook Book (Marysville, Ohio: J. H. Shearer, 1876), 303.
7. “Welch,” in Genealogical and Family History of Western New York, ed. William Richard Cutter (New York: Lewis Historical Publishing, 1912), 2:545; Chazanof, Welch’s Grape Juice, 57–58.
8. Chazanof, Welch’s Grape Juice, 81–82.
9. Grape Juice as a Therapeutic Agent (Westfield, N.Y.: Welch Grape Juice Company, 1921), 17.
10. Arnold Lorand, Health Through Rational Diet (Philadelphia: Davis, 1912), 90; House of Representatives, Unfermented Fruit Juices: Hearing Before a Subcommittee on H.R. 7840, March 30, 1920 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1920), 103.
11. Chazanof, Welch’s Grape Juice, 96.
12. “A Recipe Returned from Over Sea,” Medical Record 41 (1892): 308.
13. Earl Chapin May, The Canning Clan: A Pageant of Pioneering Americans (New York: Macmillan, 1937), 304; George Ephraim Sokolsky, The American Way of Life (New York: Farrar & Rinehart, 1939), 35; “The Exclusive Story of Tomato Juice,” Indianapolis Star Magazine, July 19, 1959, 26, 28; Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown, Spirituous Journey: A History of Drink, book 2, From Publicans to Master Mixologists (London: Mixellany, 2009), 163.
14. Florence M. Albright, “Eat Tomatoes,” Indiana Farmer’s Guide, October 14, 1922, 1078; “Advertise Tomatoes as Food and Medicine,” Market Growers Journal, August 15, 1923, 118.
15. Ingrid Nelson Waller, Where There Is Vision: The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station 1880–1955 (New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press, 1955), 53.
16. May, Canning Clan, 304–306; Walter J. Kemp, US Patent 1,746,657; May, Canning Clan, 306.
17. “Campbell Soup Company Historical Synopsis,” 11, undated mimeographed paper, Campbell Soup Company Archives, Camden, N.J.; “Campbell’s Soup,” Fortune, November 1935, 68; Belle Terre Garden Club, Belle Terre Favorites (New York: Stewart, Warren & Benson, 1936), 13.
18. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1933), 25.
19. John Ayto, Food and Drink from A to Z: A Gourmet’s Guide, 2nd ed. (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1993), 34; John F. Mariani, The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink (New York: Broadway Books, 1998), 32–33.
20. A. W. Carswell, “V-8 Cocktail Vegetable Juices–History,” memorandum, December 18, 1953, Campbell Soup Company Archives.
21. Alice Morse Earle, “Old Colonial Drinks and Drinkers,” National Magazine, June 1892, 156.
22. Paul Sayres, Food Marketing: Twenty-two Leaders of the Food Industry Tell How the Nation’s Biggest and Most Complex Business Works, and Why (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1950), 4.
23. Jeffrey L. Cruikshank and Arthur W. Schultz, The Man Who Sold America: The Amazing (But True!) Story of Albert D. Lasker and the Creation of the Advertising Century (Boston: Harvard Business Review Press, 2010), 117–119.
24. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1916), 7; Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1918), 12; Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1919), 15.
25. Cruikshank and Schultz, Man Who Sold America, 119–121; “Drink and Orange,” Simmons’ Spice Mill, January 1916, 74; Eric Clark, The Want Makers: The World of Advertising: How They Make You Buy (New York: Viking, 1989), 54.
26. Pure Concentrated Orange Juice; What It Is, How to Use It (San Dimas, Calif.: Exchange Orange Products, ca. 1920s).
27. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1924), 20; Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1929), 18–19.
28. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (1929), 18.
30. James T. Hopkins, Fifty Years of Citrus: The Florida Citrus Exchange, 1909–1959 (Gainesville: University of Florida Press, 1960), 9.
31. M. G. Frank, Keeping Well with Oranges and Grapefruit (Tampa: Florida Citrus Exchange, 1931), 7, 9.
32. James Rorty and N. Philip Nonnan, Tomorrow’s Food (New York: Devin-Adair, 1956), 121.
33. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 317.
34. A. W. Bitting, Appertizing or the Art of Canning (San Francisco: Trade Pressroom, 1937), 265; Historical Statistics of the United States: Colonial Times to 1970 (Washington, D.C.: U.S. Department of Commerce; Bureau of the Census, 1975), 1:330.
35. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1923), 20.
36. Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1930), 26; Annual Report of the General Manager of the California Fruit Growers (Los Angeles: California Fruit Growers Exchange, 1931), 28; Hopkins, Fifty Years of Citrus, 121–122.
37. Elizabeth Drew, Richard M. Nixon (New York: Times Books, 2007), 7.
38. V. O. Wodicka, “Preservation of Foodstuffs,” in Development of Special Rations for the Army, ed. Harold W. Thatcher (Washington, D.C.: Office of the Quartermaster General, General Administrative Services Division, Historical Section, 1944), 107, cited in Alissa Hamilton, Squeezed: What You Don’t Know About Orange Juice (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 2009), 16.
39. Quoted in Hamilton, Squeezed, 18.
40. F. W. Wenzel, C. D. Atkins, and Edwin L. More, “Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice—Past, Present and Future,” Florida State Horticultural Society Proceedings 62 (1949): 180.
41. Annual Report (Tampa: Florida Citrus Exchange, 1945), 66; Alistair Cooke, The American Home Front, 1941–1942 (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2006), 78–79; Hopkins, Fifty Years of Citrus, 196.
42. Donald K. Tressler and Clifford F. Evers, The Freezing Preservation of Foods (New York: Avi, 1943), 311; “Corporations: Minute Maid’s Man,” Time, October 18, 1948, http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,799353,00.html (accessed April 18, 2012); C. Lester Walker, “What’s in the Deep Freeze?” Harper’s Magazine, June 1949, 46–47; Edwin W. Williams, Frozen Food: Biography of an Industry (Boston: Cahners, 1963), 10–11, 58–60, 85–86; Harvey Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America (New York: Oxford University Press, 1993), 107; Sidney Mintz, “Frozen in Time: The Other Orangemen,” Wall Street Journal, June 23, 2000, 13.
43. Statistical Abstract of the United States (Washington, D.C.: Superintendent of Documents, 1963), 83:791.
44. Wenzel, Atkins, and More, “Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice,” 179.
10. The Temperance Beverage
1. Mark Pendergrast, For God, Country, and Coca-Cola: The Definitive History of the Great American Soft Drink and the Company That Makes It (New York: Scribner, 1993), 24–29.
2. Atlanta Evening Journal, June 30, 1887, 1; “The Full Text of the Koke Co.–Coca-Cola Co. Case,” Simmons’ Spice Mill, September 1919, 1220; David Gerard Hogan, Selling ’Em by the Sack: White Castle and the Creation of American Food (New York: New York University Press, 1997), 18.
3. John J. Riley, A History of the American Soft Drink Industry: Bottled Carbonated Beverages, 1807–1957 (Washington, D.C.: American Bottlers of Carbonated Beverages, 1958), 56.
4. Everett Dick, The Sod House Frontier, 1854–1890 (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1979), 63.
5. Riley, History of the American Soft Drink Industry, 66–67.
6. “History of Root Beer,” in American Stone Ginger Beer and Root Beer Heritage, 1790 to 1920, ed. Donald Yates and Elizabeth Yates (Homerville, Ohio: Yates, 2003).
7. “A Family Affair,” New York Times, April 8, 1892, 2; “Said the Owl,” New York Times, May 8, 1893, 2; “Nervous,” New York Times, May 5, 1894, 3.
8. “A Great Substitute,” Cosmopolitan, August 1886, 8.
9. Harry E. Ellis, Dr Pepper: King of Beverages, Centennial Edition (Dallas: Dr Pepper Company, 1986).
10. Sacramento City Directory (Sacramento: Sacramento Directory, 1921).
11. John A. Jakle and Keith A. Sculle, Fast Food: Roadside Restaurants in the Automobile Age (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999), 165–166.
12. Jeffrey L. Rodengen, The Legend of Dr Pepper/Seven-Up (Fort Lauderdale, Fla.: Write Stuff Syndicate, 1995).
13. Baron W. Stone, “Opiates and Ethics,” in Transactions of the Kentucky State Medical Society Forty-fifth Annual Session (Georgetown: Kentucky State Medical Society, 1900), 8:180; Milward W. Martin, Twelve Full Ounces, 2nd ed. (New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1969), 12–14; Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill,1981), 274.
14. “Coca-Cola Syrup and Extract,” Official Gazette of the U. S. Patent Office, June 28, 1887, 430.
15. Pendergrast, For God, Country, and Coca-Cola, 27–31, 40.
17. “Coca-Cola’s Continuous Conquests,” National Druggist 30 (1900): 108; Pendergrast, For God, Country, and Coca-Cola, 74.
18. For more on the history of soda fountains, see Anne Cooper Funderburg, Sundae Best: A History of Soda Fountains (Bowling Green, Ohio: Bowling Green State University Popular Press, 2002).
19. Frederick Allen, Secret Formula: How Brilliant Marketing and Relentless Salesmanship Made Coca-Cola the Best-Known Product in the World (New York: HarperBusiness, 1994), 41–42, 142–143.
20. Riley, History of the American Soft Drink Industry, 136.
21. E. J. Kahn, Jr., The Big Drink: The Story of Coca-Cola (New York: Random House, 1960), 55–56; Martin, Twelve Full Ounces, 11–12, 19; Riley, History of the American Soft Drink Industry, 117–118.
22. “Hyman Kirsch, 99, Made Diet Sodas; Originator of No-Cal Dies Brooklyn Philanthropist,” New York Times, May 13, 1976; Wolfgang Saxon, “Morris Kirsch Is Dead at 79; Headed No-Cal Soft Drinks,” New York Times, June 25, 1986.
23. Mark Pendergrast, Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World, 2nd ed. (New York: Basic Books, 2010), 248.
24. Gary A. Hemphill, “Led by Energy Drinks, Teas and Bottled Water, the U.S. Liquid Refreshment Beverage Market Grew by 1.3% in 2007, Beverage Marketing Corporation Reports,” press release, Beverage Marketing Corporation, March 12, 2008.
25. Mark Pendergrast, e-mail to author, July 25, 2011.
26. Elizabeth Royte, Garbage Land: On the Secret Trail of Trash (New York: Little, Brown, 2005), 176, and Bottlemania: How Water Went on Sale and Why We Bought It (New York: Bloomsbury, 2008), 5.
11. To Root Out a Bad Habit
1. Ronald Plavchan, “A History of Anheuser-Busch, 1852–1933” (Ph.D. diss., St. Louis University, 1960), 139–140; Hayagreeva Rao, Market Rebels: How Activists Make or Break Radical Innovations (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 2009), 49.
2. John Winthrop, The History of New England from 1630 to 1649 (Boston: Phelps and Farnham, 1825), 1:125.
3. Increase Mather, Wo to Drunkards: Two Sermons Testifying Against the Sin of Drunkenness (Cambridge, Mass.: Marmaduke Johnson, 1673), 4.
4. Increase Mather, A Sermon Occasioned by the Execution of a Man Found Guilty of Murder (Boston: Printed by R.P., 1687), 25.
5. David W. Conroy, In Public Houses: Drink and the Revolution of Authority in Colonial Massachusetts (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1995), 62–63, 66–72, 78–81.
6. J. C. Furnas, The Life and Times of the Late Demon Rum (New York: Putnam, 1965), 65.
7. John Adams, “Diary, 1796,” in The Works of John Adams, Second President of the United States, comp. and ed. Charles Francis Adams (Cambridge, Mass.: Little, Brown, 1851), 3:418.
8. Anthony Benezet, The Mighty Destroyer Displayed, in Some Account of the Dreadful Havock Made by the Mistaken Use as Well as Abuse of Distilled Spirituous Liquors (Philadelphia: Joseph Crukshank, 1774), quoted in “Dr. Benjamin Rush and Anthony Benezet,” The Friend, October 7, 1885, 92.
9. Benjamin Rush, Sermons to Gentlemen on Temperance and Exercise, cited and quoted in Alyn Brodsky, Benjamin Rush: Patriot and Physician (New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2004), 39, 95–96.
10. Benjamin Rush, Letters, 1761–1792 (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1951), 272; Benjamin Rush, “An Inquiry into the Effects of Ardent Spirits upon the Human Body and Mind,” in Medical Inquiries and Observations, 2nd ed. (Philadelphia: Conrad, 1805), 1:369.
11. Charles A. Lee, “History of Intoxicating Liquors in the United States,” cited in Ralph Barnes Grindrod, Bacchus: An Essay on the Nature, Causes, Effects, and Cure of Intemperance (New York: Langley, 1840), 462; Henry William Blair, The Temperance Movement: Or, the Conflict Between Man and Alcohol (Boston: Smythe, 1888), 424.
12. “The Temperance Movement,” in Chambers’s Miscellany of Useful and Entertaining Tracts (Edinburgh: William and Robert Chambers, 1845), 23.
13. Francis Lieber and others, Encyclopaedia Americana (Philadelphia: Carey and Lea, 1832), 12:175–176.
14. “George Ticknor to Thomas Jefferson, December 2, 1821,” in The Jefferson Papers, 1770–1826, 7th ser. (Boston: Massachusetts Historical Society, 1900), 1:310.
15. Samuel Morewood, An Essay on the Inventions and Customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Inebriating Liquors (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, Brown and Green, 1824), 187.
16. Fanny Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans (New York: Reprinted for the Bookseller, 1832), 41; W. J. Rorabaugh, “Alcohol in America,” OAH Magazine of History 6, no. 2 (1991):17.
17. Perry Duis, The Saloon: Public Drinking in Chicago and Boston, 1880–1920 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1999), 10–11.
18. Lyman Beecher, Six Sermons on the Nature, Occasions, Signs, Evils, and Remedy of Intemperance (New York: American Tract Society, 1827).
19. The American Cyclopaedia: A Popular Dictionary of General Knowledge (New York: Appleton, 1876), 15:816.
20. Alexis de Tocqueville, Democracy in America (New York: Edwin Walker, 1847), 118.
21. Earnest H. Cherrington, The Evolution of Prohibition in the United States of America (Westerville, Ohio: American Issue Press, 1920), 93.
23. Lieber and others, Encyclopaedia Americana, 176.
24. John Granville Woolley and William Eugene Johnson, Temperance Progress in the Century (Philadelphia: Bradley-Garretson, 1903), 115.
25. The Temperance Textbook: A Collection of Facts and Interesting Anecdotes Illustrating the Evils of Intoxicating Drinks (Philadelphia: Carey and Hart, 1837), 108–109.
26. H. K. Carroll, “Total Abstinence Through the Century,” in One Hundred Years of Temperance (New York: National Temperance Society and Publication House, 1886), 131.
27. W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979), 232.
28. Woolley and Johnson, Temperance Progress in the Century, 142.
29. Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Snares of Old New York (New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1991), 105.
30. Raymond Calkins, Substitutes for the Saloon (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1901), 353.
31. Christopher Corkscrew, Hardscrabble or Ballad of the Free Lunch Bar (New York: W. I. Whiting, 1894); Madelon Powers, Faces Along the Bar: Lore and Order in the Workingman’s Saloon, 1870–1920 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998), 224.
32. “Jefferson Drug & Variety Store,” Wisconsin Weekly Jeffersonian, August 6, 1857, 3.
33. “A Family Affair,” New York Times, April 8, 1892, 2; “Said the Owl,” New York Times, May 8, 1893, 2; “Nervous,” New York Times, May 5, 1894, p. 3.
34. American Druggist and Pharmaceutical Record, August 17, 1894, 126.
35. The Spatula 2 (1896): 424.
36. Martha Meir Allen, Alcohol: A Dangerous and Unnecessary Medicine (Marcellus, N.Y.: Department of Medical Temperance of the National Woman’s Christian Temperance Union, 1900), 427; “Coca-Cola,” National Magazine, March 1906, 720.
37. Dee Brown, The Gentle Tamers: Women of the Old West (New York: Putnam, 1973), 272–277.
38. Jack S. Blocker, American Temperance Movements: Cycles of Reform (Boston: Twayne, 1989), 114.
39. Amy Mittelman, Brewing Battles: A History of American Beer (New York: Algora, 2008), 76.
40. The Anti-Prohibition Manual: A Summary of Facts and Figures Dealing with Prohibition (Cincinnati: National Wholesale Liquor Dealers Association of American, 1918), 1–128.
41. Will Irwin, “The American Saloon,” Collier’s Weekly, May 16, 1908, 10, and “More About ‘Nigger Gin,’” Collier’s Weekly, August 15, 1908, 28, 30.
42. Daniel Okrent, Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition (New York: Scribner, 2010), 33–36.
43. Fabian Franklin, What Prohibition Has Done to America (New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1922), 73; Kathleen Morgan Drowne, Spirits of Defiance: National Prohibition and Jazz Age Literature (Columbus: Ohio State University Press, 2005), 21–23; Rory McVeigh, The Rise of the Ku Klux Klan: Right-Wing Movements and National Politics (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2009), 134–138; Christine Sismondo, America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops (New York: Oxford University Press, 2011), 227–228.
44. Robert Eadie and Andrew S. Eadie, Physiology and Hygiene for Children (New York: University Publishing, 1904), 56–59; Sean Dennis Cashman, Prohibition, the Lie of the Land (New York: Free Press, 1981), 6; Edward Behr, Prohibition: Thirteen Years That Changed America (New York: Arcade, 1996), 59, 149; Okrent, Last Call, 51.
45. Thomas C. Cochran, The Pabst Brewing Company (New York: New York University Press, 1948), 302.
46. Behr, Prohibition, 148.
47. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 342; Behr, Prohibition, 147.
48. “Hearings Before the Committee on Immigration and Naturalization,” in Deportation of Aliens Convicted of Violation of Narcotic and Prohibition (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1922), 545.
49. David W. Maurer, Kentucky Moonshine (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2003), 85.
50. Louise Chipley Slavicek, The Prohibition Era: Temperance in the United States (New York: Chealsea House, 2009), 75; Behr, Prohibition, 222; “National Affairs: Poison,” Time, January 10, 1926, http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,881577,00.html (accessed July 10, 2011).
51. John Kobler, Arden Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition (Boston: Da Capo Press, 1993), 224; Behr, Prohibition, 87; Mabel Walker Willebrandt, The Inside of Prohibition (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1929), 170.
52. David E. Kyvig, “Women Against Prohibition,” American Quarterly 28 (1976): 465–482.
53. John J. Riley, A History of the American Soft Drink Industry: Bottled Carbonated Beverages, 1807–1957 (Washington, D.C.: American Bottlers of Carbonated Beverages, 1958), 139.
54. Harry Craddock, comp., The Savoy Cocktail Book (London: Constable, 1930); Patrick Gavin Duffy, The Official Mixer’s Manual (New York: Long & Smith, 1934); Charles Browne, The Gun Club Drink Book, Being a More or Less Discursive Account of Alcoholic Beverages, Their Formulae and Uses, Together with Some Observations on the Mixing of Drinks (New York: Scribner, 1939).
55. Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
12. Youth Beverages
1. “Keep Kool with Kool-Aid,” Boys’ Life, August 1939, 39.
2. Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis, Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 84, 179; Lyle Saxon and others, comps., Gumbo Ya-Ya (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1945), 172.
3. “New Beverage Advertised,” Printer’s Ink, April 15, 1915, 75; “Story of Delaware Punch Is More Than a Business Romance,” Lloyd’s Magazine, 1923, 9–12, http://www.delawarepunch.org (accessed July 27, 2011); Brooks Parker (grandson of Thomas E. Lyons), interview with author, July 28, 2011.
6. “The New Drink Sensation,” Life, November 7, 1949, 93; “Hi-C,” Life, February 20, 1950, 119.
7. Mark Pendergrast, For God, Country, and Coca-Cola: The Definitive History of the Great American Soft Drink and the Company That Makes It (New York: Scribner, 1993), 297.
8. Ibid., 402; Gabriel Stricker, Mao in the Boardroom: Marketing Genius from the Mind of the Master Guerrilla (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2003), 47–51.
9. Sydney Finkelstein, Why Smart Executives Fail: And What You Can Learn from Their Mistakes (New York: Portfolio, 2003), 79–83; Robert F. Bruner and Arthur Levitt Jr., Deals from Hell: M&A Lessons That Rise Above the Ashes (Hoboken, N.J.: Wiley, 2009), 228–245.
11. E. Melanie DuPuis, “The Body and the Country: A Political Ecology of Consumption,” in New Forms of Consumption: Consumers, Culture, and Commodification, ed. Mark Gottdiener (Lanham, Md.: Rowman & Littlefield, 2000), 148–150.
12. Ladies Home Journal, October 1933, 58; “Where There’s Pep, There’s Iron,” Life, November 3, 1941, 8.
13. “How 10 Seconds Changed Billy’s Mind About Milk,” Life, June 24, 1946, 123.
14. Anne Cooper Funderburg, Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla: A History of American Ice Cream (Bowling Green, Ohio: Bowling Green State University Popular Press, 1995), 106–107.
15. Ray Kroc and Robert Anderson, Grinding It Out: The Making of McDonald’s (Chicago: Regnery, 1977), 54–55, 63; Adam Ried and André Baranowski, Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes (New York: Norton, 2009), 15–16.
16. Kirk Perron and Stan Dembecki, Jamba Juice Power: Smoothies and Juices for Mind, Body, and Spirit (New York: Avery, 2004).
17. Darren Rovell, First in Thirst: How Gatorade Turned the Science of Sweat into a Cultural Phenomenon (New York: American Management Association, 2006), 17–21.
19. David Noonan and Kevin Peraino, “Red Bull’s Good Buzz,” Newsweek, May 14, 2001, 39.
20. Barry D. Smith, Caffeine and Activation Theory: Effects on Health and Behavior (Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press, 2007), 32–33.
22. N. Pennington and others, “Energy Drinks: A New Health Hazard for Adolescents,” Journal of School Nursing 26 (2010): 352–359.
24. N. Ranjit and others, “Dietary and Activity Correlates of Sugar-Sweetened Beverage Consumption Among Adolescents,” Pediatrics 126 (2010): e754–e761; Sarah M. Seifert and others, “Health Effects of Energy Drinks on Children, Adolescents, and Young Adults,” Pediatrics 127 (2011): 511–528; Committee on Nutrition and the Council on Sports Medicine and Fitness, “Sports Drinks and Energy Drinks for Children and Adolescents: Are They Appropriate?” Pediatrics 127 (2011): 1182–1189.
25. The U.S. Beer Market: Impact Databank Review and Forecast (New York: M. Shanken Communications, 2009), 533.
26. Michele Simon and James Mosher, Alcohol, Energy Drinks, and Youth: A Dangerous Mix (San Rafael, Calif.: Marin Institute; 2007), 6–8.
13. Judgment of Paris
1. George M. Taber, Judgment in Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine (New York: Scribner, 2005), 155–158; Robert Finigan, Corks and Forks: Thirty Years of Wine and Food (Emeryville, Calif.: Shoemaker & Hoard, 2006), 120–125.
2. George M. Taber, “Modern Living: Judgment of Paris,” Time, June 7, 1976, http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,947719,00.html (accessed June 10, 2012), and Judgment of Paris, 213.
3. Patrick E. McGovern, Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture (Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 2003), 15.
4. Robert Beverley, “Of Edibles, Potables, and Fuel in Virginia,” in The History and Present State of Virginia, ed. Louis Booker Wright (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1947), 133–136; Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York: Macmillan, 1898), 3, 12–13; Thomas Pinney, A History of Wine in America, vol. 2, From Prohibition to the Present (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989), 14–24; John Hailman, Thomas Jefferson on Wine (Jackson: University Press of Mississippi, 2009).
5. Hugh Jones, “Of the Habits, Customs, Parts, Imployments, Trade,” in The Present State of Virginia, ed. Richard L. Morton (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1956), 86.
6. Ibid.; The Secret Diary of William Byrd of Westover, 1709–1712, ed. Louis B. Wright and Marion Tinling (Richmond: Dietz Press, 1941), 188, 230, 359; J. P. Brissot de Warville, “Letter XLI,” in New Travels in the United States of America, 1788, ed. Durand Echeverria (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University, 1964), 91.
7. John E. Wright and Doris S. Corbett, Pioneer Life in Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 1940), 60–61; Constantin-François de Volney, View of the Climate and Soil of the United States of America (London: Johnson, 1804), 288, 307.
8. William Bradford, footnote in response to letter written by Robert Cushman to Bradford, January 24, 1623, in Bradford’s History of Plymouth Plantation, 1606–1646, ed. William T. Davis (New York: Scribner, 1908), 168.
9. Philip Alexander Bruce, Economic History of Virginia in the Seventeenth Century (New York: Macmillan, 1895), 2:221.
10. Journal of Jasper Danckaerts, 1679–1680, ed. Bartlett B. James and J. Franklin Jameson (New York: Scribner, 1913), 135.
11. E. C. Wines, A Trip to Boston (Boston: Little, Brown, 1838), 23; Harriet Martineau, Society in America (London: Saunders and Otley, 1836), 186.
13. Carte de Restaurant Français des Freres Delmonico (New York: Wood, 1838), in Lately Thomas, Delmonico’s: A Century of Splendor (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1967).
14. “California Wines,” Grape Culturist, July 1870, 177–178; J. H. Beadle, The Undeveloped West: Or, Five Years in the Territories (Philadelphia: National, 1873), 270, 486, 660–661, 747; Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1951), 76, 78, 87–89, 96; James Fullarton Muirhead, The Land of Contrasts: A Briton’s View of His American Kin (London: Lane, 1902), 270–271; Richard J. Hooker, A History of Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 279.
15. K. Dubois, “Wines and Brandies of California,” Report of the Committee on Awards of the World’s Columbian Commission (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1901), 2:1043–1048.
16. Lyle Saxon and others, comps., Gumbo Ya-Ya (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1945), 172.
17. Joseph A. Dacus and James William Buel, A Tour of St. Louis: Or, the Inside Life of a Great City (St. Louis: Western Publishing, 1878), 478.
18. George Sala, America Revisited: From the Bay of New York to the Gulf of Mexico, and from Lake Michigan to the Pacific (London: Vizetelly, 1882), 1:100.
20. “Consumption of Spirituous Beverages,” Medical Record 58 (1900): 678; W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1979), 232.
21. United States Industrial Commission, Report of the Industrial Commission on Immigration (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1901), 15:499.
22. Ibid., 15:xlix, 500–503; Thomas Pinney, A History of Wine in America, vol. 1, From the Beginnings to Prohibition (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007), 327–331; Jack Florence, Legacy of a Village: The Italian Swiss Colony Winery and People of Asti, California (Phoenix, Ariz.: Raymond Court Press, 1999).
23. “Supplementary Brief of Italian Chamber of Commerce, New York, Relative to Duties on Wines and Spirits,” in Tariff Hearings Before the Committee on Ways and Means of the House of Representatives, December 10, 1908 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1908), 6207–6208; Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
24. Carosso, California Wine Industry, 109–119; Christy Campbell, Phylloxera: How Wine Was Saved for the World (London: HarperCollins, 2004), xxxvi, 187–189, 261.
25. Andrew J. Jutkins, Hand-book of Prohibition (Chicago: McCabe, 1884), 137; Robert Smith Bader, Prohibition in Kansas: A History (Lawrence: University Press of Kansas, 1986), 1.
26. Norman H. Clark, Deliver Us from Evil: An Interpretation of American Prohibition (New York: Norton, 1976), 159.
27. “Threat to Increase Medicinal Contents of Preparations,” National Druggist 50 (1920): 414; Leon D. Adams, The Wines of America (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1973), 24; Pinney, History of Wine in America, 2:10; Richard Mendelson, From Demon to Darling: A Legal History of Wine in America (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009), 66–71.
28. Pinney, History of Wine in America, 2:18–20.
29. Ibid., 28–29; Iain Gately, Drink: A Cultural History of Alcohol (New York: Gotham Books, 2008), 282–283; Daniel Okrent, Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition (New York: Scribner, 2010), 346–347.
30. Elmer Holmes Davis, “What Can We Do About It? The Candid Misgivings of a Wet,” Harper’s, December 1928, 7.
31. Report on the Enforcement of the Prohibition Laws of the United States (Washington, D.C.: National Commission on Law Observance and Enforcement, 1931), 1:132; Clark Warburton, “Prohibition and Economic Welfare,” Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science 163 (1932): 90; Andrew Sinclair, Era of Excess: A Social History of the Prohibition Movement (New York: Harper & Row, 1964), 206–208.
32. Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232; Charles Lewis Sullivan, A Companion to California Wine: An Encyclopedia of Wine and Winemaking (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998), 283.
33. Amy B. Trubek, The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2008), 112.
34. Pinney, History of Wine in America, 2:99–105.
35. James Conaway, Napa: The Story of an American Eden (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1990), 191.
36. Pinney, History of Wine in America, 2:240.
39. Tyler Colman, e-mail to author, July 14, 2011.
40. Frank J. Prial, “Wine Talk, Italy Ranks First in Wine Drinking,” New York Times, January 7, 1976, 44; Rorabaugh, Alcoholic Republic, 232.
41. Ernest Gallo and Julio Gallo, Ernest and Julio: Our Story (New York: Random House, 1994); Frank J. Prial, “Ernest Gallo, 97, Founder of Winery, Dies,” New York Times, March 7, 2007.
14. The Only Proper Drink for Man
1. Bruce G. Posner, “Once Is Not Enough,” in The Best of Inc. Guide to Marketing and Selling (New York: Prentice-Hall, 1988), 246–247.
3. “Talk of the Town,” New Yorker, November 7, 1977, 46; Bernice Kanter, “A Run for the Money,” New York Magazine, October 25, 1982, 22; Posner, “Once Is Not Enough,” 247.
4. Constantin-François de Volney, View of the Climate and Soil of the United States of America (Philadelphia: Conrad, 1804), 323.
5. William Alcott, “Coffee,” Moral Reformer and Teacher on the Human Constitution 1 (1835): 346.
6. Sylvester Graham, Lectures of the Science of Human Life (London: Horsell, Aldine Chambers, 1849), 274.
7. Richard W. Schwarz, John Harvey Kellogg, M.D. (Nashville, Tenn.: Southern Publication Association, 1970), 23.
8. Richard H. Shryock, “Sylvester Graham and the Popular Health Movement, 1830–1870,” Mississippi Valley Historical Review 18 (1931): 180; William B. Walker, “The Health Reform Movement in the United States, 1830–1870,” (Ph.D. diss., Johns Hopkins University, 1955), 198–202; Ronald L. Numbers, Prophetess of Health: Ellen G. White and the Origins of Seventh-Day Adventist Health Reform (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1992), 72–76.
9. Eugen Weber, France; Fin de Siècle (Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1986), 183; George Weisz, The Medical Mandarins: The French Academy of Medicine in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century (New York: Oxford University Press, 1995), 139.
10. William Leete Stone, Reminiscences of Saratoga and Ballston (New York: Virtue & Yorston, 1875), 296–297; Edmund Huling, “Saratoga in 1831,” in Huling’s Saratoga Springs, Ballston Spa and Schuylerville Directory for 1882–83 (Saratoga Springs, N.Y., 1883), 32–33; Thomas A. Chambers, Drinking the Waters: Creating an American Leisure Class at Nineteenth-Century Mineral Springs (Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 2002), 19; Francis H. Chapple, Wellsprings: A Natural History of Bottled Spring Waters (New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press, 2005), 74.
11. George Jones Varney, A Gazetteer of the State of Maine (Boston: Russell, 1881), 453; “Poland Water,” Journal of Medicine and Science 2 (1896): 695.
12. Meyer Brothers Druggist, May 1906, 4; “Mineral Waters,” in Nostrums and Quackery: Articles on the Nostrum Evil, and Quackery (Chicago: Press of American Medical Association, 1911), 1:462–468; Don Fritschel, “Mineral Waters of the Green Mountain State,” Antique Bottle and Glass Collector, http://www.glswrk-auction.com/contest-4.htm (accessed June 12, 2011).
13. Chapple, Wellsprings, 4.
14. The Spectator 93 (1904): 607; “French Natural Sparkling Table Water, Perrier,” Daily Mail, June 12, 1905, 1.
15. “Perrier,” British Homoeopathic Review 48 (1904): 510.
16. “Received Ex Recent Arrivals,” Daily Gleaner (Jamaica), October 19, 1906, 8; “Random Jottings,” The Bystander 19 (1908): 388; Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, The Tourist’s India (London: S. Sonnenschein, 1907), 322.
17. “Laboratory Notes,” Medical Press and Circular 128 (1904) 680–681.
18. “American Athletes in England,” New York Times, October 17, 1907, 10; “A Luxury from France,” New York Times, October 22, 1907, 3; “The Chosen Table Water of Europe,” New York Times, October 22, 1907, 6; “The Chosen Table Water of Europe,” New York Times, November 21, 1907, 5.
19. New York Times, October 23, 1908, 6; Life, April 1, 1909, 415.
21. May Company advertisement, Los Angeles Times, December 15, 1929, 33.
22. Milton Moskowitz, The Global Marketplace: 102 of the Most Influential Companies Outside America (New York: Macmillan, 1987), 465.
23. “France: Business Is Bubbling.”
24. Chapple, Wellsprings, 3–5, 15–16; Peter H. Gleick, Bottled and Sold: The Story Behind Our Obsession with Bottled Water (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2010), 28–29.
25. CSA Super Markets, July–September 1971, 258.
26. Gleick, Bottled and Sold, 1–13.
27. Hale N. Tongren, Cases in Consumer Behavior, 2nd ed. (Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, 1992), 42.
28. Robert Tyrrell Davis, Harper W. Boyd, Jr., and Frederick E. Webster, Jr., Marketing Management Casebook, 3rd ed. (Homewood, Ill.: Irwin, 1980), 218.
29. Aljean Harmetz, “Bottled Water Battle Beginning on Coast: Change in Drinking Habits Poland Water’s Lineage Snob Appeal vs. Price,” New York Times, July 17, 1978, D4; John Sutton, Sunk Costs and Market Structure: Price Competition, Advertising, and the Evolution of Concentration (Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 1991), 463–464; Tongren, Cases in Consumer Behavior, 42.
30. Elizabeth Royte, Bottlemania: How Water Went on Sale and Why We Bought It (New York: Bloomsbury, 2008), 33.
31. National Defense Resource Council, Public Water Supply Distribution Systems (New York: National Defense Resource Council, 2005); Royte, Bottlemania, 42.
32. “When the Bubble Burst,” Economist, August 1991, 67–68.
34. Bernice Kanner, The 100 Best TV Commercials—and Why They Worked (New York: Times Business, 1999), 65.
35. Royte, Bottlemania, 33.
36. Ibid., 86; Gleick, Bottled and Sold, 52.
37. Gleick, Bottled and Sold, 9.
38. “France: Business Is Bubbling.”
39. Moskin, “Must Be Something in the Water.”
40. Michael Blanding, The Coke Machine: The Dirty Truth Behind the World's Favorite Soft Drink (New York: Avery, 2010), 140–142.
41. David Schardt, “Water, Water Everywhere,” Nutrition Action, June 2000, http://www.cspinet.org/nah/water/index.html (accessed June 13, 2011); National Defense Resource Council, Public Water Supply Distribution Systems; Royte, Bottlemania, 42.
42. Gleick, Bottled and Sold, 46–48.
43. Posner, “Once Is Not Enough,” 25–26; Gleick, Bottled and Sold, 81.
45. Royte, Bottlemania, 39.
46. Elizabeth Royte, e-mail to author, July 16, 2011.
47. Posner, “Once Is Not Enough,” 252; Kathryn Petras and Ross Petras, Unusually Stupid Americans: A Compendium of All-American Stupidity (New York: Villard, 2003), 195.
15. The Coffee Experience
1. Howard Schultz and Dori Jones Yang, Pour Your Heart into It: How Starbucks Built a Company One Cup at a Time (New York: Hyperion, 1997), 22–24.
2. Richard Mathews, The Unlearned Alchymist His Antidote (London: Printed for Ioseph Leigh, 1662).
3. Timothy Pitkin, A Statistical View of the Commerce of the United States of America (New York: James Eastburn, 1817), 167.
4. Steven Topik, “Coffee as a Social Drug,” Cultural Critique 71 (2009): 95–96; Francis B. Thurber, Coffee from Plantation to Cup, 9th ed. (New York: American Grocer Publishing Association, 1884), 183–184.
5. J. D. B. De Bow, The Industrial Resources, etc., of the Southern and Western States (New Orleans: Debow’s Review, 1853), 1:278–288; Thurber, Coffee from Plantation to Cup, 247.
6. John B. Billings, Hard Tack and Coffee (Boston: Smith, 1889), 130; Thurber, Coffee from Plantation to Cup, 247.
7. Maria Parloa and others, Six Cups of Coffee (Springfield, Mass.: Good Housekeeping Press, 1887).
8. “Virtues of Coffee,” North American Archives of Medical and Surgical Science 2 (1835): 353.
9. William Alcott, “Coffee,” Moral Reformer and Teacher on the Human Constitution 1 (1835): 344.
10. Sylvester Graham, Lectures of the Science of Human Life (London: Horsell, Aldine Chambers, 1849), 274.
11. John Harvey Kellogg, The New Dietetics, What to Eat and How (Battle Creek, Mich.: Modern Medicine, 1921), 451.
12. Nettie Leitch Major, C. W. Post—The Hour and the Man: A Biography with Genealogical Supplement (Washington, D.C.: Judd & Detweiller, 1963), 32.
13. Quoted in Mark Pendergrast, Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World, 2nd ed. (New York: Basic Books, 2010), 96.
14. Abram Wakeman, History and Reminiscences of Lower Wall Street and Vicinity (New York: Spice Mill, 1914), 89.
15. Arbuckle was not the first to package coffee in bags. That honor goes to Lewis A. Osborn and Thomas Reid, who marketed Osborn’s Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee in the early 1860s. See “Mr. Lewis A. Osborn,” New York Times, November 11, 1863.
16. John Arbuckle, US Patent 73,486, in Annual Report of the Commissioner of Patents for the Year 1868 (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1869), 1:520.
17. Francis L Fugate, Arbuckles: The Coffee That Won the West (El Paso: University of Texas at El Paso, 1994); Margaret E. Hale, “The Nineteenth-Century American Trade Card,” Business History Review 74 (2000): 686.
18. Frederick Accum, A Treatise on Adulterations of Food (Philadelphia: Ab’m Small, 1820), 238–248.
19. Thurber, Coffee from Plantation to Cup, 162.
20. “Poison in Every Cup of Coffee,” New York Times, May 3, 1884, 8; Marc T. Law, “The Origins of State Pure Food Regulation,” Journal of Economic History 63 (2003): 1122.
21. I. W. Howerth, “The Coffee-house as a Rival of the Saloon,” American Magazine of Civics 6 (1895): 590.
22. William H. Ukers, All About Coffee, 2nd ed. (New York: Tea and Coffee Trade Journal, 1935), 441; Pendergrast, Uncommon Grounds, 118.
23. Ukers, All About Coffee, 441.
24. Consumption of Food in the United States, 1909–1952, Handbook no. 62 (Washington, D.C.: U.S. Department of Agriculture, 1953), 241.
26. Mark Pendergrast, e-mail to author, July 25, 2011.
27. Joseph Michelli, The Starbucks Experience: 5 Principles for Turning Ordinary Into Extraordinary (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2007), 4.
29. V. Vishwanath and others, “The Starbucks Effect,” Harvard Business Review, March–April 2000, 17–18.
