Photos (clockwise from top left): Peach Caprese Salad; Sugar Snap Peas with Pine Nuts, Fennel, and Lemon Zest; Watermelon-Tomato Salad; Sautéed Summer Squash Ribbons; Broiled Eggplant with Basil
■ FAST (30 minutes or less total time) ■ NO COOK ■ MAKE AHEAD
Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Garlic
Serves 6FAST
Why This Recipe Works To preserve the fresh grassy flavor and color of early-summer asparagus and ensure a crisp-tender texture without leaving it washed out and bland, we combined two cooking methods. We started by briefly sautéing the asparagus in butter in a skillet to add flavor and to keep the color. Adding a little water to the pan and steaming the pieces cooked them through more evenly. Allowing the water to evaporate left the asparagus perfectly crisp-tender and glossed with garlicky butter. This recipe works best with asparagus spears that are about ½ inch thick. If using thinner spears, reduce the uncovered cooking time to 1½ to 2 minutes. Peeling the bottom halves of the spears ensures that the cooked asparagus is tender. This recipe can easily be halved; use a 10-inch skillet if you halve the recipe.
2 pounds thin asparagus, trimmed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons water
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon table salt
1. Peel bottom halves of spears until white flesh is exposed. Cut spears on bias into 2-inch lengths. Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add water, garlic, and salt and stir to combine. Add asparagus, shaking skillet to evenly distribute. Cover and cook, without stirring, for 2 minutes.
2. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until skillet is almost dry and asparagus is crisp-tender, 2½ to 3 minutes longer. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Anchovies and Red Pepper Flakes
Substitute extra-virgin olive oil for butter and heat until shimmering. Add 2 rinsed and minced anchovy fillets and ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes to skillet with garlic. Decrease salt to ¼ teaspoon.
Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Lemon and Parmesan
Combine 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Stir lemon zest mixture into asparagus and sprinkle with ¼ cup shredded Parmesan before serving.
Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Mint and Almonds
Combine ¼ cup chopped fresh mint, 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, and ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika in small bowl. Stir mint mixture into asparagus and sprinkle with ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted, cooled, and lightly crushed, just before serving.
Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Shallots and Herbs
Substitute ¼ cup minced shallots for garlic. Stir ¼ cup chopped fresh chives and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill into asparagus before serving.
Farmers’ Market Find Asparagus
While often thought of as a spring vegetable, asparagus is now available year-round and can be found in the early summer months at farmers’ markets. There are many asparagus varieties, offshoot varieties, and hybrids, but the basic types you’ll most frequently see at the farm stand or grocery store are identifiable by color. You might assume that thinner asparagus spears are younger and more tender than thicker ones. However, the thickness of an asparagus spear has nothing to do with its age—a thin spear will not mature into a thick spear. Instead, the diameter is determined by the age of the entire plant (younger crowns produce more slender stalks) and its variety. We only eat young asparagus—the new shoots of the plant crown. As mature asparagus begins to bud out, the stems become woody and nearly inedible. When shopping for asparagus, look for medium-thick spears, which work best in most recipes, since larger spears must be peeled and pencil-thin spears overcook easily. Much of the flavor and prized texture of asparagus resides in the tips, which are comprised of leaf-like cladodes, or stems. Thick or thin, asparagus is sweet, nutty, and grassy, with a pleasing texture. To maintain asparagus’s bright color and crisp texture, trim the bottom ½ inch of the stalks and stand the spears upright in a glass or jar filled with 1 inch of water. Cover with plastic wrap and place the glass in the refrigerator. Asparagus stored this way should remain relatively fresh for about four days; you may need to add a little more water every few days. Retrim the very bottom of the stalks before using.
Green Asparagus The most commonly sold variety, traditional green asparagus is the type from which most other varieties descend.
Purple Asparagus Purple asparagus, a cultivar of green asparagus, gets its violet color from anthocyanins, a beneficial type of antioxidant. Purple asparagus turn green when cooked.
White Asparagus The same variety as green, white asparagus is artificially cultivated under soil, where the spears are shielded from sunlight and prevented from photosynthesizing, which would turn them green from chlorophyll. White asparagus is more tender and has a sweeter, buttery flavor; it is considerably more expensive than green asparagus.
Asparagus Salad with Radishes, Pecorino Romano, and Croutons
Serves 4 to 6FAST
Why This Recipe Works Raw asparagus is just as delicious as cooked; it’s mildly sweet and nutty, with a delicate crunch and none of the sulfurous flavors that cooked asparagus sometimes has. And when paired with the right dressing or sauce, it can make a supereasy side-dish salad. Many recipes for raw asparagus salads call for cut-up lengths of raw asparagus, but even when we peeled the spears, they were too fibrous. As long as we chose the right spears (bright green, firm, and crisp, with tightly closed tips) and sliced them very thin on the bias, we could avoid woodiness but still keep things crunchy. To complement the fresh asparagus, we wanted a no-cook summery dressing; inspired by the herb garden, we chose mint and basil for a bright, herbaceous flavor. A high ratio of herbs to oil created a pesto-style dressing potent enough to enhance but not mask the flavor of the asparagus. A food processor made it easy to chop the herbs together with Pecorino Romano cheese, garlic, lemon, and seasonings before stirring in extra-virgin olive oil. A few radishes, more Pecorino, and buttery croutons rounded out the salad. Look for asparagus spears between ½ and ¾ inch in diameter. Parmesan can be substituted for the Pecorino Romano. Grate the cheese for the dressing with a rasp-style grater or use the small holes of a box grater; shave the cheese for the salad with a vegetable peeler.
Croutons
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts discarded, cut into ½-inch pieces (1⅓ cups)
⅛ teaspoon table salt
Pesto Dressing
2 cups fresh mint leaves
¼ cup fresh basil leaves
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 teaspoons juice
1 garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salad
2 pounds thick asparagus, trimmed
5 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, shaved (¾ cup)
1. For the croutons Heat butter and oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until butter is melted. Add bread pieces and salt and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside.
2. For the pesto dressing Process mint, basil, Pecorino, lemon zest and juice, garlic, and salt in food processor until smooth, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add oil until incorporated; transfer to large bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. For the salad Cut asparagus tips from spears into ¾-inch-long pieces. Slice asparagus spears ⅛ inch thick on bias. Add asparagus tips and spears, radishes, and Pecorino to dressing and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to serving platter and top with croutons. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Asparagus Salad with Grapes, Goat Cheese, and Almonds
Omit croutons. Substitute 6 ounces thinly sliced grapes for radishes and 1 cup crumbled goat cheese for Pecorino in the salad. Add ¾ cup almonds, toasted and chopped, to salad in step 3.
Asparagus Salad with Oranges, Feta, and Hazelnuts
Omit croutons and radishes. Substitute 1 cup crumbled feta cheese for Pecorino in the salad. Cut away peel and pith from 2 oranges. Holding fruit over bowl, use paring knife to slice between membranes to release segments. Add to salad in step 3. Add ¾ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped, to salad in step 3.
Why This Recipe Works With their vibrant color and pleasant texture, in-season green beans are a summer delight. To make the beans in this summer-perfect salad tender, bright green, and deeply flavored, we blanched them in highly concentrated salt water (¼ cup of salt to 2 quarts of water). This quickly softened the pectin in the beans’ skins, so they became tender before losing their vibrant color; it also seasoned them inside and out. We paired them with another flavorful summer vegetable—cherry tomatoes—and added mint and parsley for fresh-from-the-garden brightness. Lemon juice added a citrusy lift, and feta cheese lent a salty note. If you don’t own a salad spinner, lay the green beans on a clean dish towel to dry in step 2.
1½ pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 1- to 2-inch lengths
¼ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking green beans
12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Add green beans and ¼ cup salt, return to boil, and cook until green beans are bright green and tender, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. While green beans cook, fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Drain green beans in colander and immediately transfer to ice bath. When green beans are no longer warm to touch, drain in colander and dry thoroughly in salad spinner. (Green beans can be refrigerated in a zipper-lock bag for up to 2 days.)
3. Place green beans, tomatoes, oil, mint, parsley, lemon juice, pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl and toss to combine. Transfer to serving platter, sprinkle with feta, and serve.
Green Bean Salad with Cilantro Sauce
Serves 6 to 8 FASTMAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Fresh green beans make an interesting base for a simple vegetable salad. We came up with a new take on pesto by swapping the traditional basil for bright, grassy cilantro. A single scallion brightened the color of the sauce, and walnuts and garlic cloves, toasted in a skillet, added nutty depth. The fruity flavor of extra-virgin olive oil complemented the other flavors in the dressing nicely. Finally, a touch of lemon juice rounded out the flavors and helped to loosen the sauce to just the right consistency. We blanched the beans in salted water and shocked them to set their vibrant green color and ensure that they were evenly cooked. Don’t worry about drying the beans before tossing them with the sauce; any water that clings to the beans will help to thin out the sauce.
½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking green beans
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 pounds green beans, trimmed
1. Cook walnuts and garlic in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until toasted and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to bowl. Let garlic cool slightly, then peel and roughly chop.
2. Process walnuts, garlic, cilantro, oil, lemon juice, scallion, salt, and pepper in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to large bowl.
3. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Meanwhile, fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add ¼ cup salt and green beans to boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain green beans, transfer to ice bath, and let sit until chilled, about 2 minutes. Transfer green beans to bowl with cilantro sauce and gently toss until coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Salad can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours.)
Spicy Salad with Mustard and Balsamic Vinaigrette
Serves 8 to 10FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works With wide-ranging varieties of greens—from popular arugula to lesser known types like mustard greens and mizuna—showing up at the summer farmers’ markets, we wanted to create a salad to showcase farm-fresh greens that we don’t see year-round in addition to our favorite standbys. Many of these summer greens are spicy, peppery, and bitter; we incorporated a number of them in our salad and dressed them with a pungent, mustardy vinaigrette. We envisioned this salad as standing up to rich main dishes like grilled steaks or pasta with summer vegetables, so we used both balsamic vinegar and Dijon mustard as the acidic components. Minced shallot provided another strong flavor and added a bit of texture to our vinaigrette. We mixed the greens and vinaigrette together a little at a time to ensure that all the greens were well covered. Boldly flavored, this spicy salad with mustard and balsamic vinaigrette will wake up any dulled palate.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced shallot
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
16 ounces (16 cups) spicy greens, such as arugula, watercress, mizuna, and baby mustard greens
Whisk oil, vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and pepper in bowl until combined. Place greens in large bowl, drizzle vinaigrette over greens a little at a time, and toss to coat evenly, adding more vinaigrette if greens seem dry. Serve.
Stir-Fried Bok Choy with Soy Sauce and Ginger
Serves 4 to 6FAST
Why This Recipe Works Bok choy, also known as Chinese cabbage, is one of those vegetables that you’ll often see at the farmers’ market in summer months but that you might not always know what to do with. Our answer? Stir-frying, which nicely preserves the crisp-tender texture of bok choy stalks. We sliced the bok choy heads and started the stalks first in the skillet, then added the greens later. This way, both stalks and greens ended up perfectly cooked. A combination of soy sauce and sugar dressed the vegetable with subtly sweet umami flavors, and some grated fresh ginger gave the dish an assertive lift. Be sure to add the ginger, and then the soy sauce mixture, just as the edges of the stalks turn translucent; otherwise, the stalks won’t retain their bite.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1½ pounds bok choy, stalks halved lengthwise then cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces, greens sliced into ½-inch-thick pieces
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1. Whisk soy sauce and sugar in small bowl until sugar has dissolved.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add bok choy stalks and cook, stirring constantly, until edges begin to turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in ginger and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add bok choy greens and soy sauce mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until greens are wilted and tender, about 1 minute. Serve.
VARIATION
Stir-Fried Bok Choy with Oyster Sauce and Garlic
Substitute 2 tablespoons oyster sauce (or substitute hoisin sauce, if desired) and 1 tablespoon rice vinegar for soy sauce. Add 2 minced garlic cloves with ginger.
Why This Recipe Works We love this cousin of broccoli because it’s easy to prepare in minutes and makes for a satisfying side dish that is compatible with an array of flavors. We were after a quick and dependable method of cooking this aggressive vegetable that would tamp down the bitterness in favor of rounder, more balanced flavor. Blanching the broccoli rabe in a large amount of salted water tamed its bitterness without eliminating its depth of flavor. Then we sautéed the blanched rabe with garlic and red pepper flakes, summertime standbys that complemented the vegetable’s strong flavor beautifully.
14 ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
Table salt for cooking broccoli rabe
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1. Bring 3 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add broccoli rabe and 2 teaspoons salt to boiling water and cook until wilted and tender, about 2½ minutes. Drain broccoli rabe, then transfer to ice bath and let sit until chilled. Drain again and thoroughly pat dry.
2. Cook oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in 10-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic begins to sizzle, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add broccoli rabe, and cook, stirring to coat with oil, until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
Why This Recipe Works Cabbage might not be the first vegetable to spring to mind when you think of summer, but you can find various types of seasonal cabbage at farmers’ markets. This simple preparation of humble green cabbage brought out the vegetable’s natural sweetness and preserved its crisp-tender texture. We pan-steamed and sautéed the cabbage over relatively high heat to cook it quickly, which also added extra flavor from browning. Soaking the cabbage reduced bitterness while providing extra moisture to help the cabbage steam. Onion reinforced the cabbage’s sweetness and lemon and parsley lent brightness.
1 small head green cabbage (1¼ pounds), cored and sliced thin
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 onion, halved and sliced thin
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
1. Place cabbage in large bowl and cover with cold water. Let sit for 3 minutes; drain well.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to bowl.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add cabbage and sprinkle with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Cover and cook, without stirring, until cabbage is wilted and lightly browned on bottom, about 3 minutes. Stir and continue to cook, uncovered, until cabbage is crisp-tender and lightly browned in places, about 4 minutes, stirring once halfway through cooking. Off heat, stir in onion, parsley, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
VARIATION
Sautéed Cabbage with Fennel and Garlic
Omit pepper. Substitute 1 small head savoy cabbage for green cabbage and 1 fennel bulb, fronds minced, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and sliced thin, for onion. Cook fennel until softened, 8 to 10 minutes, then add 2 minced garlic cloves and ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Substitute fennel fronds for parsley and increase lemon juice to 2 teaspoons. Drizzle cabbage with extra 1 tablespoon oil and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese before serving.
SLICING CABBAGE
1. Cut cabbage into quarters, then trim and discard core. Separate cabbage into small stacks of leaves that flatten when pressed.
2. Use chef’s knife to cut each stack of cabbage leaves into thin shreds.
Why This Recipe Works When fresh-from-the-ground carrots grace your local farmers’ market, it seems a shame to coat them in anything that will drown their innate sweetness. We wanted a recipe that would utilize carrots’ natural sweet flavor while slightly softening them to perfection, and also wanted to keep them whole for an elegantly rustic appearance. Instead of just boiling them, we gently “steeped” the carrots in warm water before cooking to firm up the vegetable’s cell walls, making them more resistant to breaking down when cooked at a higher temperature. This activated an enzyme within the carrots that strengthened their pectin. Before their warm soak, we topped the carrots with a fitted piece of parchment paper, called a cartouche, which ensured they cooked evenly from end to end and didn’t become mushy. Just a bit of oil in the cooking water provided a slight sheen—no extra sugar necessary. Serve with a simple, flavor-packed relish for a perfect finishing touch. Use carrots that measure ¾ inch to 1¼ inches across at the thickest end. You will need a 12-inch skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe.
3 cups water
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon table salt
1½ pounds carrots, trimmed and peeled
1. Cut parchment paper into 11-inch circle, then cut 1-inch hole in center, folding paper as needed.
2. Bring water, oil, and salt to simmer in 12-inch skillet over high heat. Off heat, add carrots, top with parchment, cover skillet, and let sit for 20 minutes.
3. Uncover, leaving parchment in place, and bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until most of water has evaporated and carrots are very tender, about 45 minutes.
4. Discard parchment, increase heat to medium-high, and cook carrots, shaking skillet often, until lightly glazed and no water remains, 2 to 4 minutes. Serve.
FOLDING PARCHMENT FOR SLOW-COOKED CARROTS
1. Cut parchment into 11-inch circle, then cut 1-inch hole in center, folding paper as needed to cut out hole.
2. Lay parchment circle on top of carrots, underneath lid, to help retain and evenly distribute moisture during cooking.
Pine Nut Relish
Makes about ¾ cup
⅓ cup pine nuts, toasted
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon table salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
Combine all ingredients in small bowl.
Red Pepper and Almond Relish
Makes about ¾ cup
½ cup finely chopped jarred roasted red peppers
¼ cup slivered almonds, toasted and chopped coarse
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
¼ teaspoon table salt
Combine all ingredients in small bowl.
Moroccan-Style Carrot Salad
Serves 4 to 6FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Our Moroccan-style salad combines grated carrots with olive oil, citrus, and warm spices like cumin and cinnamon. We tried grating the carrots both with a coarse grater and with a food processor and found that the coarse grater worked better. To complement the earthy carrots, we added juicy orange segments, reserving some of the orange juice to add to the salad dressing. We balanced the sweet orange juice with a squeeze of lemon juice and small amounts of cumin, cayenne, and cinnamon. The musty aroma and slight nuttiness of the cumin nicely complemented the sweetness of the carrots. A touch of honey provided a pleasing floral note. To add color and freshness, we stirred in some minced cilantro before serving. Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the carrots.
2 oranges
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 pound carrots, peeled and shredded
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Holding fruit over bowl, use paring knife to slice between membranes to release segments. Cut segments in half crosswise and let drain in fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl, reserving juice.
2. Whisk lemon juice, honey, cumin, salt, cayenne, and cinnamon into reserved orange juice. Add drained oranges and carrots and gently toss to coat. Let sit until liquid starts to pool in bottom of bowl, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Drain salad in fine-mesh strainer and return to now-empty bowl. Stir in cilantro and oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Farmers’ Market Find Carrots
Commercially cultivated carrots as we know them—with their bright orange color and crispy-juicy texture—represent just a few of the types of carrots that exist. Bunches containing carrots of various colors can now be found in both farmers’ markets and supermarkets. Whether yellow or purple, they can be substituted for orange carrots in any recipe. Purple carrots can lose their color when cooked, so some people prefer to use them in raw preparations only. Perky-looking greens still attached to carrots is a sign of freshness. At home, twist off the greens and store them separately from the carrots for sautéing or using in pestos or salads. The “baby carrots” that you see in supermarkets are actually full-grown carrots that are mechanically cut into smaller pieces and sculpted into small rounded batons. Actual baby carrots that have not fully matured are available at summer farmers’ markets. Carrots keep for a least a week in an open plastic produce bag in the refrigerator.
Chopped Carrot Salad with Mint, Pistachios, and Pomegranate Seeds
Serves 4 to 6FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works This salad showcases raw carrots, using them as an innovative canvas for contrasting flavors and textures. Instead of chopping or grating the carrots by hand, we found that finely chopping them in the food processor produced a delicately crunchy, light-textured base for our salad. We saved even more time on prep by not peeling the carrots; scrubbing them was sufficient, and the skins contributed a subtle but pleasant bitterness to the dish. We added bulk and contrasting flavor with lots of fresh mint (chopped by hand to avoid overprocessing the leaves in the food processor), pomegranate seeds for bright color and bursts of sweet-tart flavor, and toasted pistachios for some nutty crunch. A bright dressing bound it all together. We prefer the convenience and the hint of bitterness that leaving the carrots unpeeled lends to this salad; just be sure to scrub the carrots well before using them.
¾ cup shelled pistachios, toasted
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pound carrots, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup pomegranate seeds, divided
½ cup minced fresh mint
1. Pulse pistachios in food processor until coarsely chopped, 10 to 12 pulses; transfer to small bowl. Whisk oil, lemon juice, honey, salt, pepper, paprika, and cayenne in large bowl until combined.
2. Process carrots in now-empty processor until finely chopped, 10 to 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer carrots to bowl with dressing; add ½ cup pomegranate seeds, mint, and half of pistachios and toss to combine. Season with salt to taste. Transfer to serving platter, sprinkle with remaining ½ cup pomegranate seeds and pistachios, and serve.
VARIATION
Chopped Carrot Salad with Radishes and Sesame Seeds
Omit pistachios. Substitute 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil for olive oil. Substitute rice vinegar for lemon juice and 1½ teaspoons Korean red pepper flakes for paprika, cayenne, and pepper. Increase honey to 2 tablespoons and salt to 1¼ teaspoons. Before processing carrots, pulse 8 ounces radishes, trimmed and halved, in food processor until coarsely but evenly chopped, 10 to 12 pulses; add to dressing. Substitute ¼ cup toasted sesame seeds for pomegranate seeds and cilantro for mint.
Why This Recipe Works Cauliflower florets are irresistible when roasted to perfect crispness. But in the summer months, we always appreciate an opportunity to make dinner without turning on the oven and heating up the kitchen. For a version of roasted cauliflower that would bypass the oven, we opted instead for pan roasting. This seemed like the perfect way to achieve the texture we were after and give the florets a nutty, caramelized flavor while keeping cool. We began by cutting cauliflower into planks and then into flat-sided florets to maximize their exposed surface area for plenty of flavorful browning. Starting in a cold, covered pan allowed the slices to gradually steam in their own moisture before we removed the lid and let them brown. To give our side dish some standout flavor, we finished cooking the florets with minced garlic, lemon zest, and fresh parsley, and to add some crunch, we sprinkled on toasted fresh bread crumbs. For the first 5 minutes of cooking, the cauliflower steams in its own released moisture, so it is important not to lift the lid from the skillet during this time.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds)
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Pinch plus 1 teaspoon table salt, divided
Pinch plus ½ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower and cut stem flush with bottom of head. Turn head so stem is facing down and cut head into ¾-inch-thick slices. Cut around core to remove florets; discard core. Cut large florets into 1½-inch pieces. Transfer florets to bowl, including any small pieces that may have been created during trimming, and set aside.
2. Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Heat bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon oil, pinch salt, and pinch pepper in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until bread crumbs are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer crumbs to bowl and wipe skillet clean with paper towels.
3. Combine 2 tablespoons oil and cauliflower florets in now-empty skillet and sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover skillet and cook over medium-high heat until florets start to brown and edges just start to become translucent (do not lift lid), about 5 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until florets turn golden brown in many spots, about 12 minutes.
4. Push cauliflower to sides of skillet. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, and lemon zest to center and cook, stirring with rubber spatula, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into cauliflower and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is tender but still firm, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer cauliflower to serving platter and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Serve with lemon wedges.
VARIATIONS
Skillet-Roasted Cauliflower with Capers and Pine Nuts
Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Reduce salt in step 3 to ¾ teaspoon. Substitute 2 tablespoons rinsed, minced capers for garlic. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives for parsley and stir in ¼ cup toasted pine nuts with chives in step 4.
Skillet-Roasted Cauliflower with Cumin and Pistachios
Omit bread and reduce oil to ¼ cup. Heat 1 teaspoon cumin seeds and 1 teaspoon coriander seeds in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to spice grinder or mortar and pestle and coarsely grind. Wipe out skillet. Substitute ground cumin-coriander mixture, ½ teaspoon paprika, and pinch cayenne pepper for garlic; lime zest for lemon zest; and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint for parsley. Sprinkle with ¼ cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped, before serving with lime wedges.
Why This Recipe Works Chermoula is a traditional Moroccan marinade made with hefty amounts of cilantro, lemon, and garlic that packs a big punch of summer flavors. While this dressing is traditionally used as a marinade for meat and fish, here we decided to make it the flavor base for a zippy cauliflower salad in an effort to zest up a vegetable that can be bland and boring. We focused first on the cooking method of the starring vegetable. Roasting was the best choice to add deep flavor to the cauliflower and balance the bright chermoula. To keep the cauliflower from overbrowning on the exterior before the interior was cooked, we started it covered and let it steam until barely tender. Then we removed the foil, added sliced onions, and returned the pan to the oven to let both the onions and the cauliflower caramelize. Adding the onions to the same pan once the cauliflower was uncovered eased their preparation and ensured that they would finish cooking at the same time. To highlight the natural sweetness of the cooked vegetables, we added shredded carrot and raisins, two traditional North African ingredients. We now had a warm and flavorful salad sure to spice up any meal. Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the carrot.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds), cored and cut into 2-inch florets
1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Toss cauliflower with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange cauliflower in single layer in parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove foil and spread onion evenly on sheet. Roast until vegetables are tender, cauliflower is deep golden brown, and onion slices are charred at edges, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring halfway through roasting. Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
2. Gently toss cauliflower-onion mixture, carrot, raisins, and cilantro with chermoula until coated. Transfer to serving platter and sprinkle with almonds. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Chermoula
Makes about 1½ cups
¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer to large bowl. (Chermoula can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before using.)
Why This Recipe Works Fresh corn is one of those vegetables that’s really only worth eating at its peak season in the summer. It might not seem like you need a recipe to boil corn, but with such a short window of off-the-cob opportunity, we don’t like to take any chances. We needed a dependable method for cooking corn that wouldn’t turn these gems mushy or leave them too raw and starchy. To produce perfectly crisp, juicy corn every time, we figured out that the ideal doneness range is 150 to 170 degrees—when the starches have gelatinized but a minimum amount of the pectin (the glue that holds the cell walls together) has dissolved. We also realized that we shouldn’t boil the corn. Instead, we brought a measured amount of water to a boil, shut off the heat, dropped in six ears, and let them stand for at least 10 minutes. The temperature of the water decreased quickly enough that there was never any chance of the corn overcooking, while the temperature of the corn increased to the ideal zone. Even better, we found that the method is flexible: It can accommodate between six and eight ears of different sizes, and the corn can sit in the water for as long as 30 minutes without overcooking. The result: perfectly sweet, snappy kernels every time. Serve with one of our flavored salts, if desired.
6 ears corn, husks and silk removed
Unsalted butter, softened
1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Turn off heat, add corn to water, cover, and let sit for at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes.
2. Serve corn immediately, passing butter, salt, and pepper separately.
Chili-Lime Salt
Makes 3 tablespoons
2 tablespoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons chili powder
¾ teaspoon grated lime zest
Combine all ingredients in small bowl. (Salt can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
Cumin-Sesame Salt
Makes 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Toast cumin seeds and sesame seeds in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and sesame seeds are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer mixture to cutting board and let cool for 2 minutes. Mince mixture fine until well combined. Transfer mixture to small bowl and stir in salt. (Salt can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 month.)
Pepper-Cinnamon Salt
Makes 2 tablespoons
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon coarsely ground pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Combine all ingredients in small bowl. (Salt can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 month.)
Why This Recipe Works The combination of ripe summer tomatoes and fresh corn can’t be beat and luckily they both reach their peak season at about the same time. The key to a superior salad starring this iconic duo is choosing the best tomatoes and corn you can find, easy to do at the farmers’ market or a farm stand. We tried adding the corn to the salad three ways: blanched, sautéed, and raw. We preferred the version with the raw kernels to the two others because the kernels added little bursts of sweetness that countered the acidic tomatoes. For a robust southwestern profile, we finished the salad with spicy minced jalapeño, a sprinkling of rich queso fresco, and some vibrant fresh cilantro leaves. For the best results, use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find. If queso fresco is unavailable, you can substitute farmer’s cheese or a mild feta.
1½ pounds ripe mixed tomatoes, cored
1 ear corn, kernels cut from cob
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño
2 teaspoons lime juice
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 ounces queso fresco, crumbled (½ cup)
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves
1. Cut tomatoes into ½-inch-thick wedges, then cut wedges in half crosswise. Arrange tomatoes on large, shallow platter, alternating colors. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle corn over top.
2. Whisk oil, shallot, jalapeño, lime juice, salt, and pepper together in medium bowl. Spoon dressing evenly over tomatoes. Sprinkle with queso fresco and cilantro. Serve.
CUTTING KERNELS FROM THE COB
After removing husk and silk from each ear of corn, stand ear upright in large bowl and use paring knife to carefully slice kernels off of cob.
Sesame-Lemon Cucumber Salad
Serves 4NO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Cucumbers make a cool, crisp, and ultra-refreshing salad to pair with main dishes like grilled chicken, fish, or tacos. But often cucumbers can turn soggy from their own moisture. We often salt cucumber slices to draw out excess moisture, but for a salad with the best crunch, we found that weighting the salted cucumbers with a gallon zipper-lock bag filled with water forced more moisture from the slices than salting alone. Using a bag of water, instead of something rigid, to weight the cucumbers allowed the weight to mold and adjust to the shrinking slices as they drained. After many tests, we determined that 1 to 3 hours of weighted draining worked best: Even after 12 hours, the cucumbers gave up no more water than they had after 3 hours. For a bit of zip, we liked pairing the cucumbers with a rice vinegar and lemon juice dressing. Sesame seeds added some nutty flavor that complemented the bright dressing. This salad is best served within 1 hour of being dressed.
3 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon table salt, for salting cucumbers
¼ cup rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
2 teaspoons sugar
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus extra for seasoning
1. Toss cucumbers with salt in colander set over large bowl. Weight cucumbers with 1 gallon-size zipper-lock bag filled with water; let drain for 1 to 3 hours. Rinse and pat dry.
2. Whisk vinegar, oil, lemon juice, sesame seeds, sugar, and pepper flakes together in large bowl. Add cucumbers and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATION
Yogurt-Mint Cucumber Salad
Add 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, in with cucumbers. Omit rice vinegar, sesame oil, lemon juice, sesame seeds, sugar, and pepper flakes. Whisk 1 cup plain low-fat yogurt, ¼ cup minced fresh mint, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 minced garlic clove, and ½ teaspoon ground cumin together in large bowl. Add cucumber-onion mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
Why This Recipe Works Our Greek salad features a mix of fresh vegetables and herbs—minus the iceberg lettuce. This “country-style” version is popular throughout Greece. Even with the absence of the iceberg’s crunch, we maintained the classic salad’s trademark flavors and textures by combining ripe tomatoes and slices of red onion and cucumbers with fresh mint and parsley, roasted red peppers, and a generous sprinkling of feta and olives. For a bright-tasting dressing, we used a mixture of lemon juice and red wine vinegar and added fresh oregano, olive oil, and a clove of garlic. Marinating the cucumbers and onion in the vinaigrette both toned down the onion’s harshness and flavored the cucumbers.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin
½ red onion, sliced thin
6 large ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges
1 cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into ½-inch strips
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, quartered
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1¼ cups)
1. Whisk oil, vinegar, oregano, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add cucumbers and onion, toss to coat, and let sit for 20 minutes.
2. Add tomatoes, red peppers, olives, parsley, and mint to bowl with cucumber-onion mixture and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to wide, shallow serving bowl or platter and sprinkle with feta. Serve immediately.
Why This Recipe Works Marinated eggplant is a classic meze dish popular for sharing and right at home as a side to any number of summery main dishes. It has a surprisingly creamy texture and a deep yet tangy flavor. We wanted an easy recipe that would keep the eggplant in the spotlight, with a complementary, brightly flavored marinade. To make use of the eggplant cropping up at farm stands, we chose Italian eggplant here, which is smaller than the standard supermarket size and more readily available in the summer months. Broiling the marinated eggplant helped us achieve flavorful browning while it cooked through perfectly. To encourage even more browning, we first salted the eggplant, which drew out excess moisture. As for the marinade, a Greek-inspired combination of extra-virgin olive oil (using only a few tablespoons kept the eggplant from turning greasy), red wine vinegar, capers, lemon zest, oregano, garlic, and mint worked perfectly. We prefer using kosher salt because residual grains can be easily wiped away from the eggplant; if using table salt, be sure to reduce the amount in the recipe by half.
1½ pounds Italian eggplant, sliced into 1-inch-thick rounds
½ teaspoon kosher salt, for salting eggplant
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon minced fresh oregano
¼ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons minced fresh mint
1. Spread eggplant on paper towel–lined baking sheet, sprinkle both sides with salt, and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Thoroughly pat eggplant dry with paper towels, arrange on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet in single layer, and lightly brush both sides with 1 tablespoon oil. Broil eggplant until mahogany brown and lightly charred, 6 to 8 minutes per side.
3. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, vinegar, capers, garlic, lemon zest, oregano, and pepper together in large bowl. Add eggplant and mint and gently toss to combine. Let eggplant cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Season with pepper to taste, and serve. (Marinated eggplant can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
Broiled Eggplant with Basil
Serves 4 to 6
Why This Recipe Works While you can jazz up broiled eggplant if you want, all you really need is a sprinkling of fresh summery herbs to make it shine. But if you try to simply slice and broil eggplant, it will steam in its own juices rather than brown. For eggplant with great color and texture, we started by salting it to draw out its moisture. After 30 minutes, we patted the slices dry, moved them to a baking sheet (lined with aluminum foil for easy cleanup), and brushed them with oil. A few minutes per side under the blazing-hot broiler turned the slices a beautiful mahogany color. The only accent needed was a sprinkling of fresh basil. It is important to slice the eggplant thin so that the slices will cook through by the time the exterior is browned. We prefer using kosher salt because residual grains can be easily wiped away from the eggplant; if using table salt, be sure to reduce the amount in the recipe by half.
1½ pounds eggplant, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, for salting eggplant
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1. Spread eggplant on paper towel–lined baking sheet, sprinkle both sides with salt, and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Thoroughly pat eggplant dry with paper towels, arrange on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet in single layer, and brush both sides with oil. Broil eggplant until mahogany brown and lightly charred, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer eggplant to serving platter, season with pepper to taste, and sprinkle with basil. Serve.
Fennel Salad
Serves 4 to 6NO COOK
Why This Recipe Works This bright and lively salad is a great way to get to know fresh fennel with its mild licorice flavor and celery-like crunch. Since fennel is a classic Mediterranean ingredient, we looked there for inspiration. We wanted an assertive salad with a balance of sweet, salty, slightly sour, and bitter flavors. Right off we learned that there is a right way and a wrong way to cut fennel. As with meat, cutting fennel against the grain—or in this case, fibers—shortens the fibers, which makes the slices less stringy. For sweetness we threw raisins into our salad bowl and for the salty component, capers; thinly sliced red onion added pungency while whole leaves of Italian flat-leaf parsley added an herbal note. For the vinaigrette, extra-virgin olive oil was a given, and we added fresh lemon juice and balanced its brightness with a little honey. Dijon mustard helped emulsify the vinaigrette and added bite. We let the vegetables macerate in the vinaigrette for 30 minutes, which softened the onion’s harshness and seasoned the fennel slices. When ready to serve, we stirred in the parsley and some almonds for extra crunch.
½ red onion, halved through root end and sliced thin crosswise
½ cup golden raisins, chopped
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and minced
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
1. Whisk oil, lemon juice, mustard, honey, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add fennel, onion, raisins, and capers and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow flavors to blend.
2. Stir in parsley and almonds. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
Garlicky Braised Kale
Serves 8
Why This Recipe Works Kale sounds like a great side dish in theory, but in practice it can be tricky to tame its toughness. We came up with a one-pot approach to turn kale tender without taking hours or leaving it awash in excess liquid. To make the most of a farmers’ market haul or generous harvest, we started with a whopping 4 pounds of kale. We added the greens one handful at a time to a seasoned broth and let them wilt before adding more. When the kale had nearly reached the tender-firm texture we wanted, we removed the lid and raised the heat to cook off the liquid. Onion and a substantial amount of garlic gave our greens some aromatic character. This will look like a mountain of raw kale before it’s cooked, but it wilts down and will eventually all fit into the pot.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 large onion, chopped fine
10 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup water
½ teaspoon table salt
4 pounds kale, stemmed and cut into 3-inch pieces, divided
1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus extra for seasoning
1. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in broth, water, and salt and bring to simmer.
2. Add one-third of kale, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, 2 to 4 minutes. Repeat with remaining kale in 2 batches. Continue to cook, covered, until kale is tender, 13 to 15 minutes.
3. Remove lid and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most liquid has evaporated and greens begin to sizzle, 10 to 12 minutes. Off heat, stir in remaining 3 tablespoons oil and lemon juice. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Serve.
Fried Okra
Serves 4 to 6MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Hailed as a Southern staple, fried okra is an indulgent treat that, for many, is simply the only way to eat okra. For the ultimate crunchy bite, we cut the pods into pieces so that the interior mucilage would evaporate when it hit the hot oil. For a light and crispy fried exterior that wouldn’t crumble and fall off the okra when we bit into it, we made a “glue” of buttermilk and egg in which to dip the pieces before dredging. The ratio of cornmeal to cornstarch to all-purpose flour was key in creating a crunchy outer fried shell that adhered well. The cornmeal was crucial for the classic Southern fried flavor profile, the cornstarch added a light crispy effect, and the flour added the glutinous structure needed to ensure that the coating stayed put. We added a final flavorful stir-in of garlic powder and cayenne to the blend before dredging and frying the pods. While we prefer the flavor and texture of fresh okra in this recipe, you can substitute frozen cut okra, thawed and thoroughly patted dry, for fresh. We recommend frying in three batches if using frozen okra.
⅔ cup buttermilk
1 large egg
¾ cup cornmeal
½ cup cornstarch
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons table salt
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 pound okra, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 quarts peanut or vegetable oil
Lemon wedges
Hot sauce
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Set wire rack in second rimmed baking sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels.
2. Whisk buttermilk and egg together in shallow dish. Whisk cornmeal, cornstarch, flour, salt, garlic powder, cayenne, and pepper together in second shallow dish. Working in batches, dip okra in buttermilk mixture, letting excess drip back into dish. Dredge in cornmeal mixture, pressing firmly to adhere; transfer to parchment-lined sheet. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.
3. Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about 2 inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Carefully add half of okra to oil and fry, stirring as needed to prevent sticking, until okra is golden and crisp, 2 to 4 minutes. Adjust burner if necessary to maintain oil temperature between 350 and 375 degrees. Using wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer okra to prepared rack. Season with salt and transfer to oven to keep warm.
4. Return oil to 375 degrees and repeat with remaining okra. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and hot sauce.
Greek Stewed Okra with Tomatoes
Serves 6 to 8
Why This Recipe Works For a fresh way to turn okra into an irresistible side dish perfect for serving with fish or meat dishes, we paired this satisfying vegetable with a deeply flavored tomatoey sauce similar to those popular in Greece. The bright-tasting but warmly spiced tomato sauce enveloped the whole okra pods and allowed the vegetal green freshness of the okra to shine through. Greek-style tomato sauce is often seasoned with cinnamon, allspice, and other warm baking spices. For our version, we also included onion, garlic, and lemon juice, for a sweet-savory balance. We found that salting the okra pods before stewing them minimized their slippery qualities. While we prefer the flavor and texture of fresh okra in this recipe, you can substitute frozen whole okra, thawed, for fresh.
2 pounds okra, stemmed
¾ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for salting okra
2 (28-ounce) cans whole peeled tomatoes, drained
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
5 garlic cloves, sliced thin
½ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons lemon juice
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
1. Toss okra with 2 teaspoons salt in colander and let sit for 1 hour, tossing again halfway through. Rinse well and set aside.
2. Process tomatoes in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, allspice, cinnamon, and pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and lemon juice and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in okra and return to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until okra is just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Why This Recipe Works Vibrant radishes of various colors overflow summertime farm stands. But other than slicing them up for a salad, slaw, or taco-topper, what can you do with them? Enter the mellow, sweet flavor of cooked radishes—greens and all. Heat concentrates the natural sugars in radishes while toning down many of the compounds responsible for their pungent, peppery flavor. Here we started by cooking quartered radishes in butter over moderate heat. The butter provided substantial browning and lent subtle, nutty notes to the radishes. And since radishes contain relatively little water, within 10 minutes they were golden brown all over and perfectly tender, with a slight bite. Radish greens are often overlooked, but we wanted to take advantage of this multi-dimensional vegetable, so we decided to incorporate them into our side dish. To provide some textural variety and color, we cooked the greens at the end so that they retained a slight crispness that complemented the heartier radish pieces. If you can’t find radishes with their greens or they don’t yield enough greens to amount to 8 cups, you can substitute baby arugula or watercress.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces, divided
1½ pounds radishes with their greens, radishes trimmed and quartered, 8 cups greens reserved
¼ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon table salt, divided
¼ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 garlic clove, minced
Lemon wedges
1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add radishes, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until radishes are lightly browned and crisp-tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds; transfer to bowl.
2. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Add radish greens, remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt, and remaining ⅛ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in radishes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lemon wedges.
VARIATIONS
Sautéed Radishes with Chili and Lime
Stir 1 teaspoon paprika and ½ teaspoon chili powder into radishes with garlic. Substitute lime wedges for lemon.
Sautéed Radishes with Vadouvan Curry and Almonds
Omit lemon wedges. Substitute 1½ teaspoons vadouvan curry for garlic. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons chopped toasted almonds before serving.
Sugar Snap Peas with Pine Nuts, Fennel, and Lemon Zest
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works Sugar snap peas are a cross between English peas and snow peas and are a farmers’ market mainstay. They have sweet, crisp edible pods with small juicy peas inside. To ensure that the pods and their peas cooked through at the same rate, we used a hybrid method to steam the sugar snap peas briefly before quickly sautéing them; the trapped steam transferred heat more efficiently than air, so the peas cooked through faster. Cutting the sugar snap peas in half further reduced the cooking time, so the pods retained more of their snap, and as a bonus, the pockets captured the seasonings rather than letting them slide to the bottom of the platter. Sprinkling the snap peas with a dukkah-like mix of finely chopped pine nuts, fennel seeds, and seasonings dressed up this simple preparation with distinct (but not overwhelming) flavor and crunch. Do not substitute ground fennel for the fennel seeds in this recipe.
1. Toast pine nuts in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until just starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add fennel seeds and continue to toast, stirring constantly, until pine nuts are lightly browned and fennel is fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer pine nut mixture to cutting board. Sprinkle lemon zest, salt, and pepper flakes over pine nut mixture. Chop mixture until finely minced and well combined. Transfer to bowl and set aside.
2. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add snap peas and water, immediately cover, and cook for 2 minutes. Uncover, add garlic, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until moisture has evaporated and snap peas are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; stir in three-quarters of pine nut mixture and basil. Transfer snap peas to serving platter, sprinkle with remaining pine nut mixture, and serve.
VARIATIONS
Sugar Snap Peas with Almonds, Coriander, and Orange Zest
Slivered almonds can be used in place of sliced almonds. Do not use ground coriander in this recipe.
Substitute sliced almonds for pine nuts, coriander seeds for fennel seeds, ¼ teaspoon orange zest for lemon zest, and cilantro for basil. Omit red pepper flakes.
Sugar Snap Peas with Sesame, Ginger, and Lemon Zest
Black or white sesame seeds can be used in this recipe.
Substitute 2 tablespoons sesame seeds for pine nuts, ½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger for garlic, and 1 thinly sliced scallion for basil. Omit fennel seeds and red pepper flakes.
Farmers’ Market Find Peas
Look for fresh peas at farmers’ markets in the late springtime and early summer. Once you get them home, use them as soon as possible. If you find pea greens in any form in the spring or summer, they should look fresh and vibrant, with no signs of wilting, browning, or yellowing. They are very perishable, so wrap them in paper towels and store them in the refrigerator for a day or two.
English Peas Plump and sweet, fresh English peas—the green garden peas we’re all familiar with—are a quintessential vegetable of late spring and early summer. Freshly picked peas are as sweet as candy, so snap them up when you can. Supermarkets seldom carry whole English peapods, both because they’re a bit of work to shell and because the pods are too tough to eat. But there are two edible peapods you will readily find: snow peas and sugar snap peas.
Snow Peas Snow peas are recognizable for their flat, almost translucent pods in which no peas (or tiny peas) have developed. They cook in a flash, so they’re ideal for sautéing for simple side dishes or adding to stir-fries.
Sugar Snap Peas These are a hybrid of English peas and snow peas, and they combine the best of both worlds—crunchy, juicy pods with plump, sweet peas inside. Stir-fry them or use them in salads.
Pea Shoots Pea shoots are the first growth of the plant and are extremely delicate; they are sometimes shelved and labeled as “pea sprouts” in markets. They are sweet and mild and are great used raw as a topping for salads and sandwiches.
Pea Tendrils Pea tendrils are the next stage of growth. Tender leaves have developed, and long, thin coils (the tendrils) spring out in every direction, all the better to capture sunlight for growth. Pea tendrils are more intense in flavor than pea shoots and are great in stir-fries.
Pea Greens Pea greens are the third stage of growth. The rounded, bright green leaves are grassy and faintly bitter, tasting of fresh peas but without the sweetness. They are excellent salad greens, and they also can be used instead of basil or other herbs to make a pesto.
Spinach and Strawberry Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing
Serves 4 to 6
Why This Recipe Works We love to brighten up a summer salad with fresh, vibrant berries. Spinach and strawberries are a popular salad pairing, but they need to be combined in the right way to let both components shine. In our salad, we cut back on the spinach and swapped in crisp chopped romaine for color and crunch. We also bumped up the amount of strawberries to a full pound so there would be berries in every bite. For a dressing that was neither too thick nor over-the-top sweet but had plenty of flavor, we toasted the poppy seeds to enhance their nuttiness and used them in a simple vinaigrette of red wine vinegar, a minimal amount of sugar, and mild vegetable oil. Red onion and toasted almonds rounded out the salad’s ingredients. Poppy seeds are dark so it’s hard to see when they’re fully toasted. Instead, use your nose: They should smell nutty.
½ cup red wine vinegar
⅓ cup sugar
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ red onion, sliced thin
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
½ cup sliced almonds, divided
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon pepper
1 pound strawberries, hulled and quartered (2½ cups)
1 romaine lettuce heart (6 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces
5 ounces (5 cups) baby spinach
1. Whisk vinegar, sugar, and salt together in bowl. Transfer ¼ cup vinegar mixture to small bowl and microwave until hot, about 1 minute. Add onion, stir to combine, and let sit for at least 30 minutes. (Pickled onion can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days.)
2. Meanwhile, toast poppy seeds in 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darkened, 1 to 2 minutes; transfer to bowl and set aside. Add almonds to now-empty skillet, return to medium heat, and toast until fragrant and golden, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Whisk oil, mustard, poppy seeds, and pepper into remaining vinegar mixture. Combine strawberries, lettuce, spinach, and ¼ cup almonds in large bowl. Using fork, remove onions from vinegar mixture and add to salad. Add poppy seed dressing to salad and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to serving platter and top with remaining ¼ cup almonds. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works A combination found throughout the eastern Mediterranean region, earthy, tender spinach and creamy, tangy yogurt are a perfect match. We found that we greatly preferred the hearty flavor and texture of curly-leaf spinach—a favorite farmers’ market green—to baby spinach here, as the more tender baby spinach wilted down into mush. We cooked the spinach in extra-virgin olive oil and, once it was cooked, used tongs to squeeze the excess moisture out of the leaves. Lightly toasted minced garlic, cooked after the spinach in the same pan, added a sweet nuttiness. We emphasized the yogurt’s tanginess with lemon zest and juice and drizzled it over our garlicky spinach. To elevate the flavor and give it some textural contrast, we sprinkled on some dukkah, an Egyptian blend of ground seeds, nuts, and spices that enhances all kinds of dishes. Two pounds of flat-leaf spinach (about three bunches) can be substituted for the curly-leaf spinach. We prefer to use our homemade Dukkah (this page), but you can substitute store-bought dukkah if you wish.
1. Combine yogurt and lemon zest and juice in bowl; set aside for serving. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Add spinach, 1 handful at a time, stirring and tossing each handful to wilt slightly before adding more. Cook spinach, stirring constantly, until uniformly wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer spinach to colander and squeeze between tongs to release excess liquid.
2. Wipe pot dry with paper towels. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil and garlic to now-empty pot and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add spinach and toss to coat, gently separating leaves to evenly coat with garlic oil. Off heat, season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer spinach to serving platter, drizzle with yogurt sauce, and sprinkle with dukkah. Serve.
Dukkah
Makes about ⅓ cup
1½ tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted
¾ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
½ teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted
2 tablespoons shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Process sesame seeds in spice grinder or mortar and pestle until coarsely ground; transfer to bowl. Process coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and fennel seeds in now-empty grinder until finely ground. Transfer to bowl with sesame seeds. Stir pistachios, salt, and pepper into sesame mixture until combined. (Dukkah can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.)
Why This Recipe Works You might not know what to make of these beautiful round and squat squashes when you come across them, but when you’re thinking about cooking yellow squash or zucchini, take advantage of these summer baby squash. Green and yellow like their cousins, pattypans come in a variety of sizes; here we chose baby ones for their tender skin and vibrant flavor (some say the squash loses flavor as it matures) and, quite frankly, because they are so cute. We wanted to create a recipe where the squash would retain its beautiful shape and color while getting good browning. Roasting was the fastest and easiest way to cook a decent amount of squash in one batch, and we used a couple of tricks to help things along. First, we cut the squashes in half horizontally, creating flower-shaped slabs. Then we cranked the oven to 500 degrees and preheated a sheet pan for maximum searing. Tossing the squash in butter and honey both complemented the squash’s own sweet and creamy profile and promoted browning. We didn’t even have to flip the squash—the pieces were beautifully browned on the cut side, retained their bright color on top, and were fully cooked through. Use baby pattypan squashes between 1½ and 2 inches in diameter.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Whisk melted butter, honey, salt, and pepper in large bowl until honey has fully dissolved. Add squash and toss to coat. Working quickly, arrange squash cut side down on hot sheet. Roast until cut side is browned and squash is tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Roasted Baby Pattypan Squash with Lemon and Basil
Whisk ½ teaspoon lemon zest and 1 tablespoon lemon juice into butter mixture. Sprinkle squash with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil before serving.
Roasted Baby Pattypan Squash with Chile and Lime
Omit pepper. Whisk 1 minced Thai chile pepper, ½ teaspoon lime zest, and 1 tablespoon lime juice into butter mixture. Sprinkle squash with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint before serving.
Sautéed Swiss Chard with Currants and Pine Nuts
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works Swiss chard is a sturdy green with a bitter, beet-like flavor that mellows when cooked. The key to sautéing this hearty vegetable is to get the stems to finish cooking at the same time as the leaves. Swiss chard stems fall somewhere in the middle between spinach’s quick-cooking stems and kale’s tough ribs. To encourage the stems to cook efficiently and evenly, we sliced them thin on the bias. We gave the stems a head start, sautéing them with garlic and warm cumin over relatively high heat to create a crisp-tender texture and complex, lightly caramelized flavor. We introduced the tender leaves later and in two stages, allowing the first batch to begin wilting before adding the rest. This hearty green is often served simply seasoned or with garlic. To introduce some new flavors and textures to this simple vegetable, we chose to incorporate sweet currants and crunchy pine nuts, which we stirred in off the heat with some sherry vinegar. The result was a bright, nuanced side of greens with a range of appealing textures in every bite. You can use any variety of Swiss chard for this recipe.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
1½ pounds Swiss chard, stems sliced ¼ inch thick on bias, leaves sliced into ½-inch-wide strips, divided
⅛ teaspoon table salt
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons dried currants
3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just shimmering. Add garlic and cumin and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, 30 to 60 seconds. Add chard stems and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until spotty brown and crisp-tender, about 6 minutes.
2. Add two-thirds of chard leaves and cook, tossing with tongs, until just starting to wilt, 30 to 60 seconds. Add remaining chard leaves and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until leaves are tender, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in vinegar, currants, and pine nuts. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Socca with Swiss Chard, Pistachios, and Apricots
Serves 6 to 8 (Makes 5 flatbreads)
Why This Recipe Works Whether visiting a summer farmers’ market or the supermarket we’re always impressed by the giant leaves of Swiss chard and regularly bring home a colorful bunch, but once home we can struggle to find interesting ways to prepare it. Looking for an innovative approach, we went outside the box and thought of socca—a satisfying, savory French flatbread made with chickpea flour. A mound of sautéed Swiss chard piled on this savory flatbread would be a delicious way to add some excitement to the table. Socca’s loose, pancake-like batter comes together in less than a minute: Simply whisk together chickpea flour, water, olive oil, turmeric, salt, and pepper. Traditionally the batter is poured into a cast-iron skillet and baked in a wood-burning oven. But in a home oven, this technique produced socca that was dry and limp, and also heated up the kitchen more than we’d like on a hot day. We also loved the idea of smaller flatbreads for individual servings, so we ditched the oven for the higher direct heat of the stovetop and made small, crispy, golden-brown socca. As an added bonus, these smaller flatbreads had a higher ratio of crunchy crust to tender interior. For a Swiss chard topping, we combined the sautéed greens with dried apricots and toasted pistachios for sweet-savory flavor and a bit of texture. Stirring in warm spices—cumin and allspice—balanced the bright notes of the chickpea flatbreads.
Batter
1½ cups (6¾ ounces) chickpea flour
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
½ teaspoon turmeric
1½ cups water
6 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Topping
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon allspice
12 ounces Swiss chard, stemmed and chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped dried apricots
2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted pistachios
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1. For the batter Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet and place in oven. Whisk chickpea flour, salt, pepper, and turmeric together in bowl. Slowly whisk in water and 3 tablespoons oil until combined and smooth.
2. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add ½ cup batter to skillet, tilting pan to coat bottom evenly. Reduce heat to medium and cook until crisp at edges and golden brown on bottom, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip socca and continue to cook until second side is browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to wire rack in warm oven and repeat, working with 2 teaspoons oil and ½ cup batter at a time.
3. For the topping Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, salt, and allspice and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in Swiss chard and apricots and cook until chard is wilted, 4 to 6 minutes. Off heat, stir in pistachios and vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Top each cooked socca with ⅓ cup chard mixture, slice, and serve.
Why This Recipe Works A simple tomato salad is one of the elemental joys of summer, when tomatoes are juicy and flavorful. We started ours with the ripest tomatoes we could get our hands on. Because tomatoes are already fairly acidic, we found that a dressing made with the typical 3:1 ratio of oil to acid was too sharp here. Adjusting the amount of lemon juice to minimize the acidity perfectly balanced the salad. A minced shallot added a bit of sweetness while toasted pine nuts added a buttery nuttiness and some textural diversity. Basil and tomato is an iconic summer combination, so we topped the tomatoes with torn basil leaves to complete the salad with a fresh herbal note. For the best results, use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find. Serve this salad with crusty bread to sop up the dressing.
1½ pounds mixed ripe tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
1 tablespoon torn fresh basil leaves
Arrange tomatoes on large, shallow platter. Whisk oil, shallot, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together in bowl. Spoon dressing over tomatoes. Sprinkle with pine nuts and basil. Serve immediately.
Tomato Salad with Feta and Cumin-Yogurt Dressing
Serves 6
Why This Recipe Works For another fresh salad that uses plump and juicy summer tomatoes, we created one with complementary flavors and a creamy dressing. Tomatoes exude lots of liquid when cut, which can quickly turn a salad into soup. To get rid of some of the tomato juice without losing all its valuable flavor, we salted the tomato wedges before making the salad. Letting them sit for 15 minutes provided enough time for the juice to drain. Salting also seasoned both the tomatoes and their juice, some of which we reserved to add to our creamy Greek yogurt dressing, along with lemon juice to boost its tang. To infuse the dressing with more flavor we added fresh oregano, cumin, and garlic. A quick zap in the microwave was all it took to effectively bloom the spice and cook the garlic, mellowing their flavors. We tossed the tomatoes with the dressing, finishing with just the right amount of briny feta to add richness and another layer of flavor. Both regular and lowfat Greek yogurt will work well here; do not use nonfat yogurt. For the best results, use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find.
2½ pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges
½ teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ cup plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 scallion, sliced thin
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano
3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (¾ cup)
1. Toss tomatoes with salt and let drain in colander set over bowl for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Microwave oil, garlic, and cumin in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly. Transfer 1 tablespoon tomato liquid to large bowl; discard remaining liquid. Whisk in yogurt, lemon juice, scallion, oregano, and oil mixture until combined. Add tomatoes and feta and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature.
Why This Recipe Works Some think it’s sacrilege to cook a perfect summer tomato, but we disagree. Cooking intensifies the tomato’s natural flavor, and it’s an excellent way to use great tomatoes at the time of year when there are plenty of them around. That’s why tomato gratin is so appealing. It combines fresh tomatoes with bread to soak up all the juices released as the tomatoes cook, and it’s topped off with Parmesan for both flavor and contrasting texture. Starting on the stovetop initiated the breakdown of the tomatoes, drove off some moisture that would have sogged out the bread, and shortened the overall cooking time. We then finished the dish in the even heat of the oven. Toasting cubes of a crusty baguette ensured that the bread didn’t get soggy once combined with the tomatoes. We set aside the toasted bread and added the chopped tomatoes as well as garlic, a small amount of sugar, and salt and pepper. Just before moving the skillet to the oven, we folded in most of the toasted bread and scattered the remainder over the top along with some Parmesan. Fresh basil provided color and bright flavor. For the best results, use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find. Supermarket vine-ripened tomatoes will work, but the gratin won’t be as flavorful as one made with locally grown tomatoes. Do not use plum tomatoes, which contain less juice than regular round tomatoes and will result in a dry gratin. For the bread, we prefer a crusty baguette with a firm, chewy crumb.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 ounces crusty baguette, cut into ¾-inch cubes (4 cups)
3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into ¾-inch pieces
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat ¼ cup oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add bread and stir to coat. Cook, stirring constantly, until bread is browned and toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer bread to bowl.
2. Return now-empty skillet to low heat and add remaining 2 tablespoons oil and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is golden at edges, 30 to 60 seconds. Add tomatoes, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir to combine. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have started to break down and have released enough juice to be mostly submerged, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Remove skillet from heat and gently stir in 3 cups bread until completely moistened and evenly distributed. Using spatula, press down on bread until completely submerged. Arrange remaining 1 cup bread evenly over surface, pressing to partially submerge. Sprinkle evenly with Parmesan.
4. Bake until top of gratin is deeply browned, tomatoes are bubbling, and juice has reduced, 40 to 45 minutes; after 30 minutes, run spatula around edge of skillet to loosen crust and release any juice underneath. (Gratin will appear loose and jiggle around outer edges but will thicken as it cools.)
5. Remove skillet from oven and let sit for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
Roasted Tomatoes
Serves 4MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works When tomatoes are in season, oven roasting is a great way to intensify their flavor while also increasing their shelf life—they can be refrigerated or frozen and kept on hand to serve as a chilled or rewarmed side dish, mixed into a green or grain salad, blended into a homemade hummus, or placed atop crusty toasted bread with a smear of ricotta cheese. Many recipes call for a low oven temperature and hours of cooking, only to yield leathery tomatoes. To cut down on the cooking time without sacrificing quality of flavor, we cut the tomatoes into thick slices to create lots of exposed surface area from which water could escape. Oil transfers heat with great efficiency, so we poured some extra-virgin olive oil over the slices to help drive more moisture away and to concentrate the tomatoes’ flavor. We started roasting the tomatoes in a 425-degree oven and then reduced the temperature to 300 degrees to gently finish cooking. For the best results, use the ripest in-season tomatoes you can find.
3 pounds large ripe tomatoes, cored, bottom ⅛ inch trimmed, and sliced ¾ inch thick
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Arrange tomatoes in even layer on prepared sheet, with larger slices around edge and smaller slices in center. Place garlic cloves on tomatoes. Sprinkle with oregano and salt and season with pepper to taste. Drizzle oil evenly over tomatoes.
2. Bake for 30 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Remove sheet from oven. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees and prop open door with wooden spoon to cool oven. Using thin spatula, flip tomatoes.
3. Return tomatoes to oven, close oven door, and continue to cook until spotty brown, skins are blistered, and tomatoes have collapsed to ¼ to ½ inch thick, 1 to 2 hours. Remove from oven and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Discard garlic and transfer tomatoes and oil to airtight container. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold. (Tomatoes can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
Sautéed Summer Squash Ribbons
Serves 4 to 6FAST
Why This Recipe Works To create a fresh, simple summer squash recipe with as much visual appeal as pleasant flavor, we started with very thinly sliced squash, using a peeler to make even “ribbons” and discarding the waterlogged seeds. The ultrathin ribbons browned and cooked so quickly that they didn’t have time to break down and release their liquid, eliminating the need to salt them before cooking. The cooked squash needed little embellishment; a quick, tangy vinaigrette of extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, and lemon and a sprinkle of fresh parsley rounded out the flavors. We like a mix of yellow summer squash and zucchini, but you can use just one or the other. To avoid overcooking the squash, start checking for doneness at the lower end of the cooking time.
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
4 (6- to 8-ounce) yellow summer squash and/or zucchini, trimmed
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Combine garlic and lemon juice in large bowl and set aside for at least 10 minutes. Using vegetable peeler, shave off 3 ribbons from 1 side of summer squash, then turn summer squash 90 degrees and shave off 3 more ribbons. Continue to turn and shave ribbons until you reach seeds; discard core. Repeat with remaining summer squash.
2. Whisk 2 tablespoons oil, salt, pepper, and lemon zest into garlic–lemon juice mixture.
3. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add summer squash and cook, tossing occasionally with tongs, until summer squash has softened and is translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer summer squash to bowl with dressing, add parsley, and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
MAKING SUMMER SQUASH RIBBONS
Use vegetable peeler to shave squash lengthwise into 3 thin ribbons on 1 side, rotating squash 90 degrees and repeating on next side. Continue to rotate and peel squash into thin ribbons until you reach core. Discard core.
VARIATION
Sautéed Summer Squash Ribbons with Mint and Pistachios
Omit lemon zest and substitute 1½ teaspoons cider vinegar for lemon juice. Substitute ⅓ cup chopped fresh mint for parsley and sprinkle summer squash with 2 tablespoons chopped toasted pistachios before serving.
Why This Recipe Works Looking for a new way to take advantage of the abundance of zucchini in the summer, we landed on a stewed preparation, which makes this crisp vegetable pleasantly soft and almost creamy in texture while still retaining its natural flavor. Stewing zucchini is popular in Greece, so we looked to the traditional Greek combination of zucchini and tomatoes. We started by browning seeded zucchini on the stovetop (in batches to ensure thorough, even browning) and set it aside while we built a savory tomato sauce. Canned whole peeled tomatoes, processed until smooth, gave the dish the right balance of tomato flavor and silky texture. A smattering of olives complemented the sauce and enhanced the Greek flavor profile. Once our sauce had simmered and thickened, we stirred in the browned zucchini and transferred the pot to the oven to allow it to gently finish cooking and develop deep, concentrated flavor. A garnish of shredded fresh mint, stirred in at the end, added brightness. If possible, use smaller, in-season zucchini, which have thinner skins and fewer seeds.
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
5 zucchini (8 ounces each), trimmed, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and cut into 2-inch lengths
1 onion, chopped fine
¾ teaspoon table salt
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons chopped pitted kalamata olives
2 tablespoons shredded fresh mint
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Process tomatoes and their juice in food processor until completely smooth, about 1 minute; set aside.
2. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown one-third of zucchini, about 3 minutes per side; transfer to bowl. Repeat with 4 teaspoons oil and remaining zucchini in 2 batches; transfer to bowl.
3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, onion, and salt to now-empty pot and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until onion is very soft and golden brown, 9 to 11 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in olives and tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened, about 30 minutes.
4. Stir in zucchini and any accumulated juices, cover, and transfer pot to oven. Bake until zucchini is very tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in mint and adjust sauce consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works During the summer there never seems to be enough ways to cook zucchini. These fritters fall between pancakes and latkes and make a great side dish, or vegetarian main, when you want something crispy. We shredded and salted the zucchini, let it drain, and squeezed it in a dish towel to eliminate moisture, which can make the fritters soggy. To allow the zucchini’s flavor to shine, we bound the zucchini with eggs and a little flour. Fresh dill and feta cheese were ideal add-ins for an herbal note and salty richness. Use a coarse grater or the shredding disk of a food processor to shred the zucchini. Make sure to squeeze the zucchini until it is completely dry, or the fritters will fall apart in the skillet. Do not let the zucchini sit for too long after it has been squeezed dry or it will turn brown. Fritters can be served warm or at room temperature. Serve with Tzatziki (this page), if desired.
1 pound zucchini, shredded
1 teaspoon table salt
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup)
2 scallions, minced
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Lemon wedges
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Toss zucchini with salt and let drain in fine-mesh strainer for 10 minutes.
2. Wrap zucchini in clean dish towel, squeeze out excess liquid, and transfer to large bowl. Stir in feta, scallions, eggs, dill, garlic, and pepper. Sprinkle flour over mixture and stir to incorporate.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Drop 2-tablespoon-size portions of batter into skillet and use back of spoon to press batter into 2-inch-wide fritter (you should fit about 6 fritters in skillet at a time). Fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side.
4. Transfer fritters to paper towel–lined baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels and repeat with remaining 3 tablespoons oil and remaining batter. Serve with lemon wedges.
Peach Caprese Salad
Serves 6FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Caprese salad is traditionally made with slices of tomatoes and mozzarella and fresh basil with a simple dressing of extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. To give this salad a new twist, we swapped in a different juicy summer fruit: ripe fresh peaches. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to find both the peaches and fresh mozzarella at the farmers’ market. A lemony dressing highlighted the best flavors in both the peaches and the creamy cheese. Tossing the peach slices with the dressing before assembling the salad ensured that the peaches were deeply seasoned. For the best results, use the ripest in-season peaches you can find. We like using 4-ounce balls of fresh mozzarella in this recipe.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tablespoons lemon juice
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1 pound ripe peaches, quartered and pitted, each quarter cut into 4 slices
12 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, halved and sliced ¼ inch thick
6 large fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1. Whisk oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add peaches and gently toss to coat.
2. Shingle peaches and mozzarella on serving platter. Drizzle any remaining dressing from bowl over top. Sprinkle with basil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works At the height of summer, we like to take advantage of both in-season fruits and vegetables, but it’s especially gratifying to enjoy them in combination. We combined ripe, plump peaches and tomatoes for a savory-sweet salad. Salting the tomatoes helped concentrate the flavors by removing excess liquid that would have watered down the salad. Their acidity balanced the natural sweetness of the peaches, as did cider vinegar, lemon juice, and lemon zest in the dressing. Thinly sliced shallot kept the salad on the savory side, and torn mint leaves added a fresh herbal note. For the best results, use the ripest in-season peaches and tomatoes you can find.
1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored, cut into ½-inch-thick wedges, and wedges halved crosswise
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
½ teaspoon pepper
1 pound ripe peaches, halved, pitted, cut into ½-inch-thick wedges, and wedges halved crosswise
1 shallot, sliced into thin rings
⅓ cup fresh mint leaves, torn
1. Combine tomatoes and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl and toss to coat; transfer to colander and let drain in sink for 30 minutes.
2. Whisk oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add peaches, shallot, and drained tomatoes to dressing and toss gently to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving platter and sprinkle with mint. Drizzle with extra oil. Serve.
VARIATION
Peach and Tomato Salad with Pancetta and Basil
Increase oil to ¼ cup. Cook 4 ounces pancetta, cut into ½-inch pieces, in 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 7 to 9 minutes. Transfer pancetta to paper towel–lined plate to drain. Substitute 2 scallions, sliced thin on bias, for shallot and basil for mint. Sprinkle pancetta over salad with basil.
Why This Recipe Works You’ve probably seen purslane growing all around—in open fields, in sidewalk cracks, maybe even in your backyard—without realizing that this common foraged green is not only edible but also delicious. Its crisp, juicy stems and leaves and slightly tart, tangy flavor make it a special ingredient perfect for highlighting in a fresh salad. Since purslane is available only in the summer, we created a salad that celebrates a pairing of two fresh, summery ingredients. To start, we cubed watermelon into 1-inch chunks, tossed the cubes with sugar, and let them drain of any excess liquid. This ensured that we wouldn’t have a soupy mess on our hands. To gently balance the melon’s sweetness and the purslane’s tangy bite, we added thinly sliced shallot for delicate onion flavor. Tearing the purslane into pieces ensured that every bite would have purslane flavor. Fresh basil lent brightness, torn bits of fresh mozzarella added creamy substance, and a simple vinaigrette of olive oil, cider vinegar, and lemon brought everything together. This salad benefits from a liberal sprinkling of salt and pepper, so don’t be shy when seasoning the mozzarella.
4 cups 1-inch seedless watermelon pieces
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
6 ounces purslane, trimmed and torn into 1½-inch pieces (6 cups)
¼ cup fresh basil leaves, torn
1 shallot, sliced thin
6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, torn into 1-inch pieces
1. Toss watermelon with sugar in colander set over bowl; set aside for 30 minutes.
2. Whisk oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add purslane, basil, shallot, and drained watermelon and toss gently to combine. Transfer to serving platter and scatter mozzarella over top. Drizzle with extra oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Watermelon-Tomato Salad
Serves 4NO COOK
Why This Recipe Works This salad shouts summer, but to ensure that the vibrant flavors of the watermelon and tomatoes didn’t get drowned out, we had to devise a way to tame the juiciness of both fruits before combining them in a lightly dressed salad. To do this, we tossed cubes of watermelon with some sugar and let them drain. We tossed cherry tomatoes—ideally, farm-fresh ones—with a little salt and set them aside while the watermelon drained. Since both of our salad components were bright red, we chose yellow cherry tomatoes for nice color contrast. Shallot gently balanced the melon’s sweetness and basil lent brightness. Finally, we added bits of fresh mozzarella for substance and a simple vinaigrette to bring everything together. This salad benefits from a liberal sprinkling of salt and pepper, so don’t be shy when seasoning the mozzarella.
4 cups 1-inch seedless watermelon pieces
2 teaspoons sugar
12 ounces yellow cherry tomatoes, halved
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
1 shallot, sliced thin
¼ cup fresh basil leaves, torn
6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, torn into 1-inch pieces
1. Toss watermelon with sugar in colander set over bowl; set aside for 30 minutes.
2. Toss tomatoes, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl; set aside.
3. Whisk oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Add shallot, basil, drained watermelon, and tomatoes and toss gently to combine. Transfer to platter and evenly scatter mozzarella over top. Drizzle with extra oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
