3. To test consistency, place 1 teaspoon jam on chilled plate and freeze for 2 minutes. Drag your finger through jam on plate; jam has correct consistency when your finger leaves distinct trail. If runny, return pot to heat and simmer for 1 to 3 minutes before retesting. Skim any foam from surface of jam using spoon.

4. Meanwhile, place two 1-cup jars in bowl and place under hot running water until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes; shake dry.

5. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot jam into hot jars. Let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

VARIATIONS

No-Commitment Berry Jam

Substitute 1 pound (3 cups) blueberries, raspberries, or blackberries for strawberries and leave berries whole. Reduce boiling time in step 2 as follows: 8 to 12 minutes for blueberries, and 10 to 15 minutes for raspberries or blackberries.

No-Commitment Stone Fruit Jam

We like to leave the skins on our stone fruits because they add color and flavor to the jam. Substitute 1 pound thinly sliced yellow peaches (do not use white peaches), nectarines, apricots, or plums (3 cups) for berries. In step 2, boil mixture for 10 to 15 minutes.

Classic Strawberry Jam

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works When summer gifts us with an abundance of fresh strawberries, there’s no better way to extend enjoyment of them than making jam. Naturally low in pectin, strawberries are often cooked too long, causing the fruit to lose its bright flavor. We shortened the cooking time by cutting the strawberries into smaller pieces and then mashing them to release their juices and jump-start the cooking process. Shredded apple added natural pectin and fresh flavor to the mix. Lemon juice added acidity to balance the sugar’s sweetness and helped the natural pectin to gel. Small, fragrant berries produce the best jam. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try not to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

3 pounds strawberries, hulled and cut into ½-inch pieces (10 cups)

3 cups sugar

1¼ cups peeled and shredded Granny Smith apple (1 large apple)

2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice

1. Place 2 small plates in freezer to chill. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. In Dutch oven, crush strawberries with potato masher until fruit is mostly broken down. Stir in sugar, apple, and lemon juice and bring to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Once sugar is completely dissolved, boil mixture, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until thickened and registers 217 to 220 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. (Temperature will be lower at higher elevations; see this page for more information.) Remove pot from heat.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot jam into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

5A. For short-term storage Let jam cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Classic Blueberry Jam

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works When fresh blueberries are plentiful, preserve a bit of summer year-round with blueberry jam. The trick to our jam was making sure not to overcook the fruit. Blueberries have thick skins and numerous tiny seeds within, so when overcooked they can easily take on a leathery texture and mealy taste. To combat this, we simmered the blueberries for just 5 minutes to let them release their natural juices before adding pectin (mixed with a little sugar), followed by the rest of the sugar, to create the perfect gel set. We were left with silky jam and a few intact blueberries that burst in your mouth with bright taste. Freshly picked ripe-yet-firm blueberries are best. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try not to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

2¾ cups sugar, divided

2 tablespoons Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes (see this page)

25 ounces (5 cups) blueberries

2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Combine ¼ cup sugar and Sure-Jell in bowl. Bring blueberries, lemon juice, and lemon zest to simmer in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until blueberries have softened and released their juice, about 5 minutes.

3. Bring mixture to boil over high heat. Whisk in Sure-Jell mixture and bring to boil. Whisk in remaining 2½ cups sugar and bring to vigorous boil. Once boiling, cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove pot from heat and skim any foam from surface of jam using spoon.

5A. For short-term storage Let jam cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot; let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Classic Raspberry Jam

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works For a raspberry jam bursting with fresh fruit flavor, we started by finding the perfect balance of fruit to sugar. For intense fruit flavor, we added a grated Granny Smith apple. Traditionally, apple adds body to fruit jams, but in this recipe we also found it created great bright flavor. Lemon juice boosted the brightness while also adding acidity to help the pectin set. We boiled our jam for just 10 to 15 minutes to achieve the perfect consistency. Slightly unripe or “just ripe” fruit will form a jam more easily than very ripe fruit, as it contains more pectin and is more acidic. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

2 pounds (6½ cups) raspberries

3 cups sugar

1 cup peeled and shredded Granny Smith apple (1 apple)

1 tablespoon bottled lemon juice

2. In Dutch oven, bring raspberries, sugar, apple, and lemon juice to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Once sugar is completely dissolved, boil mixture, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until thickened and registers 217 to 220 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes. (Temperature will be lower at higher elevations; see this page for more information.) Remove pot from heat.

5A. For short-term storage Let jam cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

THE FROZEN PLATE TEST

If the jam runs back into the area just cleared by your finger, it needs to be cooked longer.

If your finger leaves a distinct trail through the jam, it will set properly when cooled.

Classic Peach Jam

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works In our classic peach jam, sugar brings out the sweetness of summer-ripe peaches and lemon juice adds brightness and acidity. A shredded apple provided enough natural pectin for just the right set. Leaving the skins on the peaches created a pretty rose-tinted jam and intensified the peach flavor, and a shortened cooking time retained that flavor. Do not use white peaches here; they are not acidic enough for safe canning using this recipe. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try not to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

2 pounds ripe but firm yellow peaches, halved, pitted, and cut into ½ -inch pieces (6 cups)

2½ cups sugar

1 cup peeled and shredded Granny Smith apple (1 apple)

3 tablespoons bottled lemon juice

2. Stir peaches, sugar, apple, and lemon juice together in Dutch oven until well combined. Cover and let sit for 20 minutes. Bring mixture to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Once sugar is completely dissolved, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peaches have softened, about 15 minutes.

3. Off heat, crush fruit with potato masher until mostly smooth. Return mixture to boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until mixture registers 217 to 220 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. (Temperature will be lower at higher elevations; see this page for more information.) Remove pot from heat.

4. To test consistency, place 1 teaspoon jam on chilled plate and freeze for 2 minutes. Drag your finger through jam on plate; jam has correct consistency when your finger leaves distinct trail. If runny, return pot to heat and simmer for 1 to 3 minutes before retesting. Skim any foam from surface of jam using spoon.

5. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot jam into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

6A. For short-term storage Let jam cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

6B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Classic Apricot Preserves

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Our apricot preserves are bright, texturally pleasing, and full of fruit flavor. For a strong start, we created a puree by cooking down half the chopped apricots, along with sugar, water for moisture, and lemon juice. We kept the fresh fruit flavor by adding half the apricots later in the cooking process. Coarsely mashing the cooked mixture left some discernible apricot pieces and a satisfying texture. Choose ripe but firm apricots. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

3 pounds ripe but firm apricots, pitted and cut into ½-inch pieces (about 8½ cups), divided

2 cups sugar

3 tablespoons bottled lemon juice

2. In Dutch oven, bring half of apricots, sugar, ½ cup water, and lemon juice to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Once sugar is completely dissolved, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until mixture is thick with some pieces of fruit intact, about 25 minutes.

3. Stir in remaining apricots and simmer until they are just softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Off heat, crush fruit coarse with potato masher, leaving some larger pieces intact. Return mixture to boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until mixture registers 217 to 220 degrees, about 5 minutes. (Temperature will be lower at higher elevations; see this page for more information.) Remove pot from heat.

4. To test consistency, place 1 teaspoon preserves on chilled plate and freeze for 2 minutes. Drag your finger through preserves on plate; preserves have correct consistency when your finger leaves distinct trail. If runny, return pot to heat and simmer for 1 to 3 minutes before retesting. Skim any foam from surface of preserves using spoon.

5. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot preserves into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

6A. For short-term storage Let preserves cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Preserves can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

Classic Plum Preserves

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works To yield plum preserves with the most intense fresh plum flavor, we cooked all the ingredients together for just a short time. Leaving the skins on the plums contributed a lot of natural pectin as well as a lot of plum flavor. Using 2 cups of sugar muted the plums’ tartness and highlighted their natural sweetness. We opted for lime juice, which provided vibrant flavor. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lime juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

2½ pounds ripe but firm plums, pitted and cut into ½-inch pieces (8 cups)

2 cups sugar

2 tablespoons bottled lime juice

2. In Dutch oven, bring plums, sugar, and lime juice to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Once sugar has completely dissolved, remove pot from heat and crush fruit coarse with potato masher, leaving some larger pieces intact.

3. Return mixture to boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and adjusting heat as needed, until mixture registers 217 to 220 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. (Temperature will be lower at higher elevations; see this page for more information.) Remove pot from heat.

5. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot preserves into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

6A. For short-term storage Let preserves cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until preserves are set, 12 to 24 hours. (Preserves can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

Cherry Preserves

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works One of the highlights of the summer fruit season is the arrival of juicy sweet cherries, which can be transformed into succulent preserves packed with deep cherry flavor. We tried cutting the cherries to various sizes and found that simply halving them gave us the best chunky texture. To soften the cherries and help them release their flavorful juices, we simmered them in a covered pot before whisking in just enough pectin and sugar to create a thickened, velvety backdrop for the fruit. We blended the liquid ingredients with a whisk while also gently mashing the fruit with it. We used Bing cherries to develop this recipe, but any variety of sweet cherries can be used; do not use sour cherries. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

3 cups sugar, divided

3 tablespoons Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes (see this page)

2 pounds sweet cherries, pitted and halved (4 cups)

2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Combine ¼ cup sugar and Sure-Jell in bowl. In Dutch oven, bring cherries and lemon juice to boil, stirring often, over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until cherries soften and release some of their juices, about 3 minutes.

3. Bring mixture to boil over high heat. Whisk in Sure-Jell mixture and return to boil. Whisk in remaining 2¾ cups sugar and bring to vigorous boil. Once boiling, cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove pot from heat and skim any foam from surface of preserves using spoon.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot preserves into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

5A. For short-term storage Let preserves cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until preserves are set, 12 to 24 hours. (Preserves can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seals, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Concord Grape Jelly

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works When Concord grapes show up in late summer through early fall, we like to make jelly. We simmered fresh grapes to steam them quickly and then crushed them gently as they released their juices. We strained out the solids and refrigerated the juice for a day before straining it again to ensure a crystal-clear jelly. We added just enough sugar to enhance the natural sweetness of the grapes, and just enough pectin to produce a clear, smooth set. Look for grapes that are firm, plump, and securely attached to their stems. To double this recipe double all of the ingredients except the grapes; increase the amount of grapes to 7 pounds. Use a 12-quart pot when making the juice in step 1 and jelly in step 4. Measure out 7 cups juice before making the jelly. Increase the amount of sugar mixed with the pectin to ½ cup; add the remaining 4½ cups sugar as directed in step 4.

4 pounds Concord grapes, stemmed

1½ cups water

2½ cups sugar, divided

5 tablespoons Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes (see this page)

1. Bring grapes and water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and simmer, crushing grapes occasionally with potato masher, until grapes are soft and separated from their skins, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Working in batches, strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl, pressing firmly on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Clean strainer, line with triple layer of cheesecloth, and strain juice again into large measuring cup. Let juice cool, then cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. Before making jelly, strain juice again through cheesecloth-lined strainer and measure out 3½ cups; reserve any extra juice for another use.

3. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

4. Combine ¼ cup sugar and Sure-Jell in bowl. Bring juice to boil in clean Dutch oven over high heat. Whisk in Sure-Jell mixture and bring to boil. Whisk in remaining 2¼ cups sugar and bring to vigorous boil. Once boiling, cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove pot from heat and skim any foam from surface of jelly using large spoon.

5. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot jelly into hot jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside edge of jar and drag upward to remove air bubbles.

6A. For short-term storage Let jelly cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until jelly is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jelly can be refrigerated for up to 3 months.)

6B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seals, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Red Pepper Jelly

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Homemade red pepper jelly is a terrific way to make use of garden-fresh bell peppers. We wanted our recipe to highlight two ingredients: red bell peppers and chiles. We favored habaneros for their lingering, full-bodied flavor and spiciness. We started out by chopping, then pulsing the peppers in a food processor. To soften the peppers, we added them to a Dutch oven with a small amount of water and allowed them to steam. The heat from the habaneros helped balance the sweetness of the red bell peppers and sugar. Distilled white vinegar gave us a clean, acidic tang and a combination of pectin and sugar produced the perfect consistency. Do not substitute other types of vinegar for the distilled white vinegar. To make this jelly spicier, reserve and add the chile seeds. Do not substitute other brands of low-sugar pectin for the Sure-Jell. To double this recipe make two single batches in separate pots. Do not try to make a double batch in a single large pot; it will not work.

3½ cups sugar, divided

¼ cup Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes (this page)

1 pound red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 habanero chiles, halved, stemmed, and seeded

¼ cup water

2 cups distilled white vinegar

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Whisk ¼ cup sugar and Sure-Jell together in bowl; set aside. Pulse bell peppers and habaneros in food processor until finely chopped, 12 to 15 pulses, scraping down bowl as necessary. Transfer peppers to Dutch oven and stir in water. Cover and cook over medium heat until peppers have softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer until water has evaporated, about 1 minute.

3. Add vinegar and Sure-Jell mixture and bring to boil, whisking constantly. Add remaining 3¼ cups sugar and bring to vigorous boil, whisking constantly. Once boiling, cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove pot from heat and skim foam from surface using large spoon.

5A. For short-term storage Let jelly cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate until set, 12 to 24 hours. Stir to redistribute peppers before serving. (Jelly can be refrigerated for up to 4 months.)

Key Ingredients in Preserving

Other than fresh fruits and vegetables, there are just a few key ingredients you need for home preserving and pickling success. Here’s what they are, what they do, and why you need them.

PECTIN

There are two basic types of pectin: regular pectin and low-sugar pectin. Regular pectin requires high amounts of sugar and acidity in order to set. In the test kitchen we prefer low-sugar pectin (which is only available in powdered form) as it contains all of the ingredients necessary to form a gel; this allows us to choose a level of sugar based on the preserve and not the pectin. Our favorite pectin is Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes; it comes in a bright pink box and is widely available. It’s often found in the baking aisle near the gelatin and cornstarch.

SUGAR

Sugar is a natural preservative. It contributes to flavor and adds sweetness to jams and jellies as well as helps to bring out the fruits’ flavor. When simmered, it also affects the texture of mixtures and makes them thicker. In addition, sugar interacts with natural pectin and encourages it to set. When jams are cooked, sugar bonds with the pectin and provides structure and spreadability. When preserving fruit, a syrup of sugar and water helps the fruit retain its flavor, color, and shape. We like to use granulated sugar in our recipes and tend to use less sugar because we prefer our jams and jellies less sweet.

BOTTLED LEMON JUICE AND LIME JUICE

Achieving the proper acidity (pH) level is key for preservation. Without the right pH, boiling water canning is not considered safe. Likewise, without enough acid, unprocessed foods will have a short lifespan, even in the fridge. Acidity also plays a key role in the gelling abilities of pectin; without a consistent pH it can be difficult to predict how a jam or jelly will set. Fresh lemon juice varies too much from lemon to lemon to consistently predict how much it will increase the acidity of a given preserve; bottled lemon juice has a tightly controlled pH that is always consistent.

VINEGAR

When making pickles, vinegar provides not only flavor but also acidity, which helps preserve the pickles and ensure they’re safe to eat. Getting pickles to the proper pH is particularly important when boiling water canning, which is only safe for high-acid foods. The two most common vinegars for pickling are cider vinegar and distilled white vinegar; both are available at a 5 percent acetic acid level, meaning they have a consistent pH. Always use the variety of vinegar called for in the recipe.

SALT

The additives commonly found in table salt can produce off-flavors and hazy brines and, in fermented pickles, can inhibit the growth of good microbes. Canning salt, often called pickling or preserving salt, is specifically designed for pickle making and doesn’t have any iodine or anti-caking agents. This salt also has a very fine grain, which dissolves quickly in water. However, you can swap kosher salt for pickling salt without any adverse effects. If substituting Morton’s Kosher Salt for canning salt, increase the measurement by 50 percent (for example, from 1 teaspoon to 1½ teaspoons); if using Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, increase by 100 percent (from 1 teaspoon to 2 teaspoons).

WATER

Pickles are made using water, vinegar, and salt, so the quality of the water matters. Fluoride and other elements may interfere with the pickling process, and water may contain enough chlorine to delay fermentation. If the water is highly chlorinated, that smell can carry through to the food. Soft tap water or filtered tap water are preferable for pickling. The minerals in hard water can interfere with the formation of acid and might also discolor the pickles. If you have any concerns about your water, use bottled.

The ATK DIY Canning Kit

The amount of canning equipment now available has grown, including premade canning kits. We found most canning-specific items to be a waste of money, so we put together our own set of essential items. You don’t need to buy anything too fancy or expensive; you really only need to invest in a good canning pot and a handful of other key pieces to help you can successfully in your own kitchen. You can typically find everything you need at a good kitchen supply store or online.

A large (18- to 21-quart) canning pot is handy for heating the jars and key for processing the filled jars. We like a pot that has silicone-coated handles for easy gripping and a clear lid so we can monitor what is going on inside. Our winning canning pot is the Victorio Stainless Steel Multi-Use Canner.

A canning rack with tall handles that fits inside the pot keeps the jars off the bottom of the pot and makes pulling the hot jars out of boiling water easier. Canning pots are often sold with a rack; our winning pot comes with one.

Glass canning jars (aka Mason jars) are sold with flat metal lids and threaded metal screw rings that hold the lids in place during processing.

A canning-specific jar lifter works better than tongs when putting hot filled jars in and out of boiling water because it allows you to grasp the jars firmly. Our favorite jar lifter is the Ball Secure-Grip Jar Lifter.

A wide-mouth stainless-steel funnel makes pouring liquids, like jams and brines, and channeling pieces of fruit into jars easier and tidier. Don’t bother with plastic funnels.

A ladle makes transferring cooked foods and pouring hot cooking liquid or brine into jars much simpler and neater. Our best buy is the OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Ladle.

Wooden skewers help to release the air bubbles around the inside of each jar once the jars are filled. (We also use them to poke fruits and vegetables to test for doneness.)

A timer is important for monitoring cooking and processing times. While you can certainly use your watch or a clock, a timer takes away the guesswork and lessens the risk of mistakes. We rely on the OXO Good Grips Triple Timer.

Canning Step by Step

Canning is a great way to preserve foods at their peak of summer freshness, from jams and jellies to tomatoes and fruits to all kinds of pickles. The boiling water canning process can seem daunting—since you are dealing with a huge pot of boiling water and multiple glass jars of food—but each step along the way is in fact quite simple.

1 HEAT THE JARS

Many recipes call for sterilizing the jars and lids before filling them; however, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) says that this is only necessary when processing jars for less than 10 minutes. We don’t sterilize jars in this book because all of our recipes are processed for at least 10 minutes. Yet, the jars do need to be heated before being filled with hot jam or the room-temperature glass may shatter. Jars can either be warmed in the canning pot that will be used for processing or placed under hot running tap water. As for the lids, they do not need to be heated before using, and in fact many manufacturers warn against it.

2 FILL THE JARS

As soon as the jam has finished cooking, it needs to be portioned into the hot jars. Given that both the jam and the jars are hot, we found it very helpful to use a wide-mouth canning funnel, or you can make a real mess and possibly burn yourself. A canning funnel works better than a traditional kitchen funnel for this task because a large opening makes filling the jars go quickly (which helps to keep the jam hot), and the funnel nestles securely into the jar so it’s less likely to top over when full. Because the timing is so important here, we like to have the jars warmed and waiting for the jam.

3 MEASURE THE HEADSPACE

It is very important to leave some space between the top of the food and the rim of the jar, known as headspace. If canning larger pieces of fruit or vegetables in liquid, make sure the solids are fully covered by the liquid and then measure the distance between the liquid and the rim of the jar. Each recipe will spell out exactly how much headspace is required (usually between ¼ inch and 1 inch). The headspace allows for the food to expand as it heats up during processing. If you have either too much or too little headspace, it can prevent the lid from sealing properly to the jar.

4 RELEASE THE AIR BUBBLES

After filling the jars and measuring the headspace, use a wooden skewer to remove any air bubbles trapped in the jar. For thick jams and jellies, draw the skewer upward to release the bubbles. For larger pieces of fruit or vegetables in liquid, press the skewer against the food to press the air bubbles out. If left unchecked, the air bubbles will collect at the top of the jar during processing and alter the headspace, which can prevent the jar from sealing properly. Once the air bubbles have been removed, be sure to add extra jam or liquid as needed so that the headspace measurement is correct.

5 ADD THE LIDS AND RINGS

Before adding the lids and rings, it is important to wipe the rim of the jar clean of any drips. Once clean, place the lids on top and screw on the rings until just fingertip-tight. Do not overtighten the rings, or you will prevent any air from escaping the jars during processing, which is a key part of the canning process. Note that the lids can only be used once; they cannot be reused. The rings, however, can be used several times as long as they are in good shape.

6 PROCESS THE JARS

Using a jar lifter, lower the hot, filled jars into the rack inside the pot of boiling water. Make sure the jars are covered by at least 1 inch of water; if necessary add more water. Bring the water back to a boil and then process (boil) the jars for the amount of time as prescribed in each recipe. Be sure to start the timer only after the water has returned to a boil. Processing times will vary based on the size of the jars, your altitude, and the type of food inside the jars. Smaller jars and lower elevations have shorter processing times than larger jars and higher elevations. The USDA has determined safe processing times for all different types of food, and we follow their guidelines in all of our recipes.

7 LET THE JARS SEAL THEMSELVES

After the processing time is up, turn off the heat and let the jars sit in the hot water for 5 minutes. This allows the boiling-hot food inside the jars to settle down and starts the lid-sealing process. After 5 minutes, remove the jars from the pot and allow them to cool at room temperature for 24 hours. As the food cools, it contracts, which makes a small vacuum form inside the jar. The pull of this vacuum pops the flexible metal lid inward, an indication that the jar has been hermetically sealed and oxygen can no longer pass through. To test the seal, press on the lid with your finger; a sealed lid will feel firm, while an unsealed lid will flex under the pressure and make a small popping sound.

8 STORE THE JARS

The combination of the sterilized jam and the hermetically sealed lid is the reason the jar can be stored for at least one year in a dark, cool place. We recommend storing the jars without their rings. This way, you can quickly tell if the seal has been broken before using, indicating that the jam is not safe to eat. If the seal pops at any time during storage, you must discard the jam; it could contain harmful bacteria or toxins that could make you sick.

Making Jam

TEMP THE JAM

When making jam without commercial pectin, we like to monitor the jam’s temperature as it cooks. This isn’t a great way to determine if the jam’s done, but it is a good indication of how close it is to the set point. The set point for jam is roughly 8 degrees above the boiling point of water, but we suggest removing the pot from the heat 2 to 3 degrees early and performing the frozen plate test (see below). The boiling point of water changes with elevation; listed below are the jam set temperatures for varying altitudes. The temperature within the pot can range up to 10 degrees; to get an accurate reading, whisk the jam thoroughly and move the thermometer back and forth as you take the temperature.

JAM SET TEMPERATURES BY ELEVATION

Elevation	Temperature
Sea level	217–220 degrees
1,000 feet	215–218 degrees
2,000 feet	213–216 degrees
3,000 feet	211–214 degrees
4,000 feet	209–212 degrees
5,000 feet	208–211 degrees
6,000 feet	206–209 degrees

PERFORM THE FROZEN PLATE TEST

To determine the doneness of a jam made without commercial pectin we use the “frozen plate” test. Spoon hot jam onto a frozen plate, place it in the freezer for 2 minutes, and then drag your finger through the jam. The jam has the correct consistency if your finger leaves a distinct trail (see this page).

USE THE RIGHT PECTIN

For all of the jelly recipes, and a few of the jam recipes, we use store-bought pectin to thicken the mixture to the right consistency. After testing a few different brands and types of pectin, we found it best to use Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes (see this page); it was the most consistent and worked well in all of our recipes. Do not substitute other brands or types of pectin for the pink box of Sure-Jell (not even the yellow box of Sure-Jell) or the recipes may not work. After whisking in the pectin, it’s important to return the mixture to a boil and let it dissolve. Only then can you whisk in the remaining sugar and boil the jam for 1 to 2 minutes to activate the pectin and dissolve the sugar.

LEAVE HEADSPACE

The space between the surface of the jam and the lid is known as headspace, and each recipe spells out exactly how much headspace is needed. (Headspace is only important for jams that are going to be processed.) The headspace allows for the hot bubbling jam to expand in the jar during processing. As the jam expands, it forces the air in the headspace out through the edges of the lid, which has not yet sealed to the jar. The lid is held in place by the rings, but the rings are not very tight so that this air is allowed to escape. If you don’t leave enough headspace, the jam will leak out of the jar; leave too much headspace and the lid may not seal properly.

MIND THE PROCESSING TIME

Processing jars of jam is only necessary if you want to be able to store them for a long time at room temperature; the processing neutralizes any bacteria or toxins inside the jar and hermetically seals the lid to the jar. The processing times listed for each recipe in the book will vary depending on the size of the jars, your altitude, and the type of food inside the jar. Small jars require less processing than larger jars, and lower altitudes require less processing than higher altitudes. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) has determined safe processing times for all different types of food, and we follow their guidelines in all of our recipes. After lowering the jars into the water, be sure to wait until the water has returned to a boil before starting the timer for processing.

CHECK THE SEAL

After the processing time is up, the heat is turned off and the jars are left to sit in the hot water for 5 minutes. This allows the boiling hot food inside the jars to settle down and starts the lid sealing process. The jars are then removed from the pot and allowed to cool at room temperature for 24 hours, during which time the food shrinks, causing a small vacuum inside the jar. The pull of this vacuum pops the flexible metal lid inward, signaling that the jar has been hermetically sealed and oxygen can no longer pass through. The combination of the sterilized jam and the hermetically sealed lid is the reason the jar can be stored at room temperature for at least one year before opening. You can tell if the lid is sealed or not by pressing down in the center; a sealed lid won’t move, while an unsealed lid will be flexible and make a small popping noise. If the seal pops at any time during storage, you must discard the jam.

Making Pickles

KEEP ’EM CRISP

A crisp texture is key in recipes such as Bread-and-Butter Pickles (this page), Dill Pickle Chips (this page), Sweet Zucchini Pickle Chips (this page), and Giardiniera (this page). To help the vegetables retain their fresh, crisp texture, we found it beneficial to add Ball Pickle Crisp, which is simply a granulated form of calcium chloride, to our vinegar-based pickles. It reinforces the naturally occurring pectin in vegetables and helps to keep pickles crunchy after being processed and stored for months in brine.

LOW-TEMPERATURE PROCESSING

For delicate vegetables, such as cucumbers and zucchini, we found it best to process the jars in hot water rather than boiling water. This process is called “low-temperature pasteurization treatment” by the USDA and is used to help keep pickles crisp. Although it requires a thermometer and a watchful eye to maintain the water in the canning pot between 180 and 185 degrees during the processing time, we loved the snappy texture this technique produces in our pickles.

COVER IT UP

When making fermented pickles, it is important to keep the cucumbers completely submerged in the brine so that they ferment evenly and don’t get moldy. To prevent the cucumbers from floating above the surface of the brine, we press a parchment round flush to the surface of the brine in the jar, then place a zipper-lock bag filled with brine as a weight on top. The bag is filled with brine so that just in case it leaks, the brine in the jar won’t get watered down. Finally, we cover the jar with a triple layer of cheesecloth so that fermentation gases can be released while keeping out any dust or debris.

KEEP COOL

The flavor of a fermented pickle depends heavily on the temperature of the fermenting room. We found that temperatures between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit were in the ideal range for fermentation; any warmer and the pickles will have a fishy off-flavor, and the texture of the cucumbers will begin to turn mushy. Keeping your pickles in a basement or cool, dark place is one of the easiest ways to maintain these temperatures, while a wine cooler outfitted with a digital thermostat is the most accurate (and high-end) method. If fermenting in the basement, be sure to invest in a good room thermometer that keeps track of temperature fluctuations and place it next to the jar of fermenting pickles.

WHAT ABOUT BOTULISM?

Food-borne botulism is a rare but serious illness, and most cases are due to improperly home-canned foods. Luckily, avoiding botulism is very easy if you follow our recipes exactly. The processing times given in our recipes are derived from the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning; these times are long enough to neutralize any dangerous toxins inside the jars.

We measured the pH of every recipe in the book and have been careful to stay well below the minimum level (pH of 4.6) for food safety and botulism in canned goods. The pH for your batches at home will be the same as long as you use bottled lemon or lime juice and don’t substitute other types of vinegar.

Be sure to work cleanly. Thoroughly wash the food, jars, rings and lids, counter, sink, and your hands before starting a home-canning project to reduce the possibility of contamination.

Lastly, when in doubt, throw it out. Always discard food from jars that have lost their seal during storage, as it is a sign that bacteria, mold, or other toxins might be growing inside the jar. Also, if a jar is still sealed but the food inside looks or smells off when you open it, you should discard it.

Quick Pickle Chips

Makes one 1-pint jar MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works A snap to make, these quick-pickled cucumber slices are ready to jump in on short notice to brighten up a picnic, barbecue, or weeknight meal. They are a great fuss-free pickle for a novice, and a super go-to recipe for anyone looking to satisfy a craving without the effort involved in larger-scale pickling projects. Just a few easy steps will transform a handful of cucumbers into perfect pickle chips—crunchy, tangy, a bit sweet, and loaded with fresh, aromatic flavor. Like a classic bread and butter pickle, these chips get a hint of warm spice from black peppercorns, mustard seeds, and turmeric. Fresh dill sprigs add a mild anise flavor, befitting a classic hamburger pickle. To streamline our preparation time, we chose seasoned rice vinegar—which contains vinegar, sugar, and salt—and eliminated the work of separately measuring three ingredients. We sliced our cucumbers into ¼-inch chips using a chef’s knife, though a mandoline or cutter for making crinkle cuts can also be used for added flair. We heated our glass jar in hot water to ensure that it wouldn’t crack when we filled it with hot brine. After 3 hours, these pickles were thoroughly suffused with a lively combination of sweet, sour, and aromatic tones. Be sure to choose the freshest, firmest pickling cucumbers available, for guaranteed crunch. These pickles cannot be processed for long-term storage.

¾ cup seasoned rice vinegar

¼ cup water

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

⅛ teaspoon black peppercorns

⅛ teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

8 ounces pickling cucumbers, ends trimmed, sliced ¼ inch thick

2 sprigs fresh dill

1. Bring vinegar, water, garlic, turmeric, peppercorns, and mustard seeds to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat.

2. Place one 1-pint jar under hot running water until heated through, about 1 minute; shake dry. Pack cucumbers and dill into hot jar. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over cucumbers to cover. Let jar cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

3. Cover jar with lid and refrigerate for at least 2½ hours before serving. (Pickles can be refrigerated for up to 6 weeks; pickles will soften significantly after 6 weeks.)

Bread-and-Butter Pickles

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Bread-and-butter pickles have a crisp texture and the perfect balance of sweet and sour—a great addition to burgers or a picnic spread of sandwiches. Most recipes combine cucumbers and onions in a spiced, syrupy brine; we cut back on the sugar and added red bell pepper for its fresh flavor and color. Cucumbers can lose their crunch when processed; we found that combining several crisping techniques gave us the best results. We tossed our sliced vegetables in salt to draw out excess water and added a small amount of Ball Pickle Crisp, which helps keep the natural pectin from breaking down, resulting in firmer pickles. Finally, rather than processing in a boiling-water bath, we used a technique known as low-temperature pasteurization, which involved maintaining our pickles in a hot-water bath at 180 to 185 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes; in this temperature range microorganisms are destroyed and pectin remains largely intact. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot when making the brine; the processing time will remain the same.

2 pounds pickling cucumbers, ends trimmed, sliced ¼ inch thick

1 onion, quartered and sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch matchsticks

2 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

3 cups apple cider vinegar

2 cups sugar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds

¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon celery seeds

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon Ball Pickle Crisp (see this page)

1. Toss cucumbers, onion, and bell pepper with salt in large bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain vegetables in colander (do not rinse), then pat dry with paper towels.

2. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

3. Bring vinegar, sugar, water, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, and cloves to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat; cover and remove from heat.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Add ⅛ teaspoon Pickle Crisp to each hot jar, then pack tightly with vegetables.

5. Return brine to brief boil. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over cucumbers to cover, distributing spices evenly and leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on vegetables to remove air bubbles, and add extra brine as needed.

6A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for 1 day before serving. (Pickles can be refrigerated for up to 3 months; flavor will continue to mature over time.)

6B. For long-term storage While jars are warm, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Before processing jars, heat water in canning pot to temperature between 120 and 140 degrees. Lower jars into water, bring water to 180 to 185 degrees, then cook for 30 minutes, adjusting heat as needed to maintain water between 180 and 185 degrees. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Dill Pickle Chips

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works The savory cousins of bread-and- butter pickles, these iconic pickle chips are tart and full of dill flavor. To give our chips their characteristic punch, we found dill seeds and fresh dill to be the best combination. Mustard seeds and garlic added heat, while a bit of sugar balanced the acidity of the apple cider vinegar. To preserve the crunch, we salted our cucumbers for several hours to draw out water and then packed the raw slices into jars, along with a bit of Ball Pickle Crisp, before covering them with hot brine. We processed the cucumber slices using the low-temperature pasteurization method, maintaining them in a hot-water bath at 180 to 185 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes to produce crisp pickles. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot when making the brine; the processing time will remain the same.

2½ pounds pickling cucumbers, ends trimmed, sliced ¼ inch thick

2 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

2 cups chopped dill plus 4 large sprigs, divided

3 cups cider vinegar

3 cups water

¼ cup sugar

1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds

2 teaspoons dill seeds

½ teaspoon Ball Pickle Crisp (see this page)

4 garlic cloves, peeled and quartered

1. Toss cucumbers with salt in bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain cucumbers in colander (do not rinse), then pat dry with paper towels.

2. Bundle chopped dill in cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. Bring dill sachet, vinegar, water, sugar, mustard seeds, and dill seeds to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 15 minutes; discard sachet.

3. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

VARIATION

Dill Pickle Spears

After trimming both ends from cucumbers, quarter cucumbers lengthwise and cut into 4-inch-long spears. Pack cucumber spears vertically into jars; salting and processing times will remain the same.

Farmers’ Market Find Cucumbers

Cucumber varieties are very broadly divided into “slicing” and “pickling” cucumbers. American cucumbers, also called garden cucumbers, have thick, somewhat bitter dark-green skin and large, plentiful seeds; they have a crisp texture and mild flavor. English cucumbers, also called seedless or hothouse cucumbers, are long and slim with thin skins and a medium-crunchy texture. Their flavor is slightly sweet and melony. Persian cucumbers are similar to English cukes but are shorter; they are slim with thin skins, few seeds, and a mild flavor. Lemon cucumbers, mostly found at farmers’ markets, have thin golden-colored skins, a crisp texture, and delicate, sweet flavor. Kirby cucumbers are the most common type of pickling cucumbers; they are small and squat, with dense, crunchy flesh and bumpy skins that can be tough. When buying cucumbers, look for ones that are firm, solid, and feel heavy without any shriveling skin, soft spots, or yellowing spots. Store cukes loosely in a plastic produce bag in the crisper drawer.

Dilly Beans

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Dilly beans are crunchy, sweet-sour pickled green beans flavored with plenty of fresh dill, plus garlic and black peppercorns. We tried various techniques for preparing our beans before packing them into jars, and we found that raw packing gave us leathery beans, while hot packing resulted in overly soft beans. To tenderize our beans and preserve their crunch, we found that a quick blanch in boiling water (followed by an ice bath) did the trick. Just 1 minute of boiling gave us the texture we were looking for in our pickles. We experimented with different ways of infusing our beans with dill and found that a large bunch of chopped fresh dill steeped in the brine for 15 minutes produced the most well-rounded and satisfying flavor. For added bite, we divided garlic cloves among our jars before adding the beans. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot when making the brine; the processing time will remain the same.

3 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page), plus salt for blanching green beans

2 pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 4-inch lengths

2 cups chopped fresh dill

3 cups distilled white vinegar

6 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

6 garlic cloves, peeled and quartered

1. Fill large bowl with ice water. Bring 6 quarts water and 1 tablespoon salt to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add beans and cook until crisp-tender but still crunchy at core, about 1 minute. Transfer beans to ice water and let cool for 2 minutes; drain well, discard ice, and pat dry with paper towels.

2. Bundle dill in cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. Bring dill sachet, vinegar, 3 cups water, sugar, peppercorns, and 3 tablespoons salt to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 15 minutes; discard sachet.

3. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn heat off and cover to keep hot.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Distribute garlic evenly among jars, then pack tightly with beans.

5. Return brine to brief boil. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over beans to cover, distributing peppercorns evenly and leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on beans to remove air bubbles, and add extra brine as needed.

6A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for at least 1 week before serving. (Beans can be refrigerated for up to 3 months; flavor will continue to mature over time.)

6B. For long-term storage While jars are warm, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for above 6,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Farmers’ Market Find Green Beans

Green beans are legumes, which are plants that produce a pod with edible seeds inside. Green beans are grown and eaten for their pods rather than for what’s inside them. Different varieties—yellow wax, purple, Romano, haricots verts—may vary in texture, color, and size, but all have a sweet, grassy flavor and crisp texture. “Green beans,” “snap beans,” and “string beans” are general terms that cover many different varieties of beans. Their traditional garden season runs from midsummer through fall. When shopping, select thinner beans if possible, since those will be more crisp and sweet. Store green beans wrapped in paper towels in an open plastic produce bag in the crisper drawer for no more than a few days.

Blue Lake The most commonly available bean variety is Blue Lake. As they age, regular green beans can become tough and start to develop a stronger, slightly bitter flavor edge. Several purple varieties are also available; they’re very pretty when raw but turn plain green when cooked.

Haricots Verts Haricots verts, also called French beans, are a thinner, shorter variety. They have a more delicate texture than regular green beans and a fresh, lightly sweet flavor. They cook much more quickly than regular green beans and are even tender enough to eat raw.

Wax Beans Wax beans, like green beans, encompass many varieties. They are pale yellow snap beans with a flavor that’s similar to green beans but slightly milder and sweeter. Wax beans have none of the chlorophyll pigment that makes green beans green. You might also sometimes see yellow wax beans with vivid purple streaks. Wax beans can be substituted for green beans in any dish.

Romano Beans Romano beans, also called Italian flat beans or Italian pole beans, are flatter and broader than regular green beans and have a crisp texture and sweet flavor. Like regular green beans, they also come in yellow wax and purple varieties. They can be used similarly to regular green beans.

Chinese Long Beans Chinese long beans can grow up to nearly 3 feet in length. They have a flavor that’s a little more mellow than regular green beans and a softer, chewier texture, which is best highlighted by stir-frying or deep frying.

Sweet Zucchini Pickle Chips

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Zucchini are great for pickling, and unlike pickling cucumbers, are available year-round. Plus, when gardeners have more zucchini than they know what to do with, making pickles is a great way to use them. We wanted a zucchini pickle with a familiar sweet-and-sour profile, but with added elegance. We chose shallots instead of onions for their more delicate flavor and made a tangy yet sweet brine with classic pickling spices. Like cucumbers, zucchini required special treatment to ensure crispness. We salted the slices to draw out water, which helped them stay firm. We packed them into jars along with Ball Pickle Crisp, which helps retain pectin. We opted for low-temperature pasteurization, which made our pickles shelf-stable while ensuring their crispness. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot when making the brine; the processing time will remain the same.

2¾ pounds small zucchini (6 ounces each), trimmed and sliced ¼ inch thick

4 shallots, sliced thin

2 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

3 cups apple cider vinegar

2 cups sugar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds

¾ teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon celery seeds

½ teaspoon Ball Pickle Crisp (see this page)

1. Toss zucchini and shallots with salt in bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain vegetables in colander (do not rinse), then pat dry with paper towels.

2. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

3. Bring vinegar, sugar, water, mustard seeds, turmeric, and celery seeds to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat; cover and remove from heat.

5. Return brine to brief boil. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over vegetables to cover, distributing spices evenly and leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on vegetables to remove air bubbles, then add extra brine as needed.

6A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving. (Pickles can be refrigerated for up to 1 month; flavor will continue to mature over time.)

VARIATION

Sweet and Spicy Zucchini Pickle Chips

Add 3 red jalapeño chiles, stemmed and sliced into rings, to zucchini mixture before salting in step 1. Divide 8 garlic cloves, peeled and quartered, between jars before packing with vegetables.

Pink Pickled Turnips

Makes two 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Refreshing pickled turnips are traditionally served as an accompaniment to falafel (this page) and rolled up in shawarmas. A staple across the Middle East, they are also at home on a picnic spread. These pickled turnips are whimsically fuchsia in color (from intermingling with beets) and provide just the right crunch to complement any dip or spread. Because these pickles are typically served with robust, flavorful foods, we chose to keep them mild with just a bit of garlic, allspice, and black peppercorns. Once we were happy with the flavor profile, we turned to the question of how to best impart a bright pink color to our otherwise boring white turnips. Betacyanin, the pigment responsible for beetroot’s deep red color, brightens into a vibrant pink when in contact with acid. Our vinegar brine was the perfect medium to impart the beet’s color to our turnips. We mixed pieces of beet with the turnips in the jars and poured the hot brine over them. The acidic brine coaxed a beautiful hot-pink color from the beets, while the lack of cooking minimized any dulling. The beets left behind in the jar will eventually become pickled as well and make for a tasty treat. The turnips need to be refrigerated for two days to allow the brine to fully penetrate and pickle the vegetable. These pickled turnips cannot be processed for long-term storage.

1¼ cups white wine vinegar

1¼ cups water

2½ tablespoons sugar

1½ tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

¾ teaspoon whole allspice berries

¾ teaspoon black peppercorns

1 pound turnips, peeled and cut into 2 by ½-inch sticks

1 small beet, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch pieces

1. Bring vinegar, water, sugar, salt, garlic, allspice, and peppercorns to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain brine through fine-mesh strainer, then return to saucepan.

2. Place two 1-pint jars in bowl and place under hot running water until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes; shake dry. Pack turnips vertically into hot jars with beet pieces evenly distributed throughout.

3. Return brine to brief boil. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over vegetables to cover. Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for at least 2 days before serving. (Pickled turnips can be refrigerated for up to 1 month; turnips will soften over time.)

Cajun Pickled Okra

Makes two 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Southerners fry, smother, and bake okra, but outside of the South most know it for its role as a thickener in gumbo, thanks to the viscous liquid inside the pods. When you pickle okra, the salt pulls out moisture, giving the pods a nice crunch. As the okra sits in the pickle brine, it becomes less sticky inside and more crisp. The liquid that has been drawn out of the okra creates a glue on the outside of the pod for the spices and aromatics to cling to. For a pickle packed with punchy Cajun flavor, we needed to make a spicy, aromatic brine; we started with red pepper flakes and oregano. While we loved the roundness that the oregano brought, the red pepper flakes didn’t provide the heat or depth we associate with Cajun cuisine. We swapped in a hefty ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper for the red pepper flakes and added smoked paprika to the mix. The cayenne provided a fiery heat and brightness, while the paprika offered a little sweetness and a smoky dimension. Lastly, spooning raw minced garlic straight into the jars alongside the okra (rather than steeping it in the brine) gave us the sharp, peppery backbone needed to make these pickles the ultimate Cajun treat. We found that this pickle needs one week for the brine to fully penetrate the okra and for the flavors to develop, but it will continue to get more crisp as it sits in the refrigerator. Use these to serve alongside fried chicken (this page), chopped and stirred into macaroni salad (this page), or to garnish a Bloody Mary.

1½ cups white wine vinegar

1 cup water

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

6 garlic cloves, minced

14 ounces small fresh okra (3 inches or smaller), trimmed

1. Bring vinegar, water, sugar, salt, paprika, oregano, and cayenne to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat; cover and remove from heat.

2. Place two 1-pint jars in bowl and place under hot running water until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes; shake dry.

3. Portion garlic into hot jars. Tightly pack okra vertically into jars, alternating them upside down and right side up for best fit.

4. Return brine to brief boil. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over vegetables to cover, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on vegetables, to remove air bubbles, then add extra brine as needed.

5A. For short term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for 1 week before serving. (Pickled okra can be refrigerated for at least 6 months; okra will become more crisp, and flavor will mature over time.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are warm, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Set canning rack in canning pot, fill three-quarters full of water, and bring to boil. Lower hot, filled jars into water and make sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water (if necessary add more water), cover pot, and bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for above 6,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Pickled Watermelon Rind

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Pickled watermelon rind is a classic Southern treat. We knew we wanted to avoid the cloyingly sweet, syrupy brines we found in most recipes, so we also looked at several savory versions—some herbal, some citrusy, some spiced—but ultimately we chose a more traditional, sweet profile, only with more tang, less sugar, and a bit of cinnamon and cloves. Many recipes call for salting the cut rind overnight before pickling; we wanted to streamline this process but still produce a pickled rind that was firm yet tender. We had great results as long as we paid close attention to certain visual and textural clues along the way. We soaked our rind in a salt-water solution for 3 hours to tenderize and season it. Next we simmered it in fresh water to purge the salt and soften the watermelon. We transferred the rind to our flavorful pickling brine and simmered it until it just began to turn translucent. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot (or two pots) when making the brine and cooking the rind; the processing time will remain the same.

½ cup canning and pickling salt (see this page)

1 (12- to 15-pound) watermelon, peeled and quartered, rind removed from flesh, scraped clean, and cut into 1-inch pieces (12 cups)

3 cinnamon sticks, broken in half

1 teaspoon whole cloves

3 cups distilled white vinegar

3 cups sugar

1 cup water

1. Dissolve salt in 2 quarts water in bowl. Add rind and refrigerate for 3 hours; drain and rinse. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat, add rind, and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes; drain.

2. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

3. Bundle cinnamon and cloves in cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. Bring spice sachet, vinegar, sugar, and 1 cup water to boil in now-empty Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 15 minutes; discard sachet. Return brine to simmer, add cooked rind, and simmer until it begins to turn translucent, 2 to 4 minutes.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using slotted spoon, pack rind into hot jars. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over rind to cover, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on rind to remove air bubbles, and add extra brine as needed.

5A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for 1 day before serving. (Pickled watermelon rind can be refrigerated for up to 3 months; texture will continue to soften over time.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are warm, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for above 6,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Giardiniera

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Giardiniera is an Italian mix of spicy pickled vegetables featuring carrots, cauliflower, red bell peppers, and celery. We hoped to fix what plagues most supermarket brands: harsh brines and flat flavors. We started with the traditional vegetables in a white vinegar brine, but found our pickles lacking. The addition of serrano peppers delivered heat, while sliced garlic and coriander seeds provided depth. We opted for white wine vinegar over distilled white vinegar to give the brine a well-rounded flavor. Adding water, sugar, and salt balanced out the harsh vinegar. We loved the flavor of fresh dill, but it turned slimy in the brine. Bundling the herbs in cheesecloth before steeping fixed this and allowed them to be easily discarded. We simply packed the raw vegetables into jars and topped them with hot brine. This method was successful at keeping the vegetables crisp over short-term storage, but the carrots and celery softened after a month. Adding a bit of Ball Pickle Crisp solved our crispness problem. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients and use a larger pot when making the brine; the processing time will remain the same.

½ head cauliflower (1 pound), cored and cut into 1-inch florets

3 carrots, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick on bias

3 celery ribs, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips

2 serrano chiles, stemmed and sliced thin

6 garlic cloves, sliced thin

1½ cups chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

2¾ cups white wine vinegar

2¼ cups water

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

½ teaspoon Ball Pickle Crisp (see this page)

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Combine cauliflower, carrots, celery, bell pepper, serranos, and garlic in bowl. Bundle dill and coriander in cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. Bring dill-coriander sachet, vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 10 minutes; discard sachet.

3. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Add ⅛ teaspoon Pickle Crisp to each hot jar, then pack tightly with vegetables.

5A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature, cover with lids, and refrigerate for at least 2 days before serving. (Giardiniera can be refrigerated for at least 5 months; flavor will continue to get spicier over time.)

Sour Dill Pickles

Makes 12 pickles MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Fermented pickles have a unique and complex flavor. Often salted or submerged in a salty brine, they are left to sit for anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. When it comes to “full sour” dill pickles, it’s all about the tang—and the crunch. To get crisp pickles, we tried every technique we could find. We added a grape leaf and a black-tea bag; these contain tannic acid that deactivates the enzymes responsible for softening. We used pricey sea salts containing minerals which inhibit softening. We also added Ball Pickle Crisp to our brine. While delivering slightly more crisp pickles, these techniques either added off-flavors or were too expensive. Lastly, we salted the cucumbers for 3 hours before pickling. These pickles were significantly crunchier, without tasting off. For flavor we added fresh dill, dill seeds, garlic, and black peppercorns. The ideal environment to create the classic sour dill flavor is between 50 and 70 degrees (do not ferment above 70 degrees). The fermentation temperature will affect the timing and flavor of the pickle; warmer temperatures will ferment more quickly and produce sharper, more pungent flavors. For a balanced flavor, we prefer a fermentation temperature of 65 degrees. Be sure to let the brine cool to room temperature before pouring it over the cucumbers. These pickles cannot be processed for long-term storage. These pickles need to ferment for at least 7 days or up to 14 days.

12 small pickling cucumbers (3 to 4 ounces each), ends trimmed

3 tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page), divided

7 cups water

20 sprigs fresh dill

5 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 tablespoon dill seeds

1½ teaspoons black peppercorns

1. Toss cucumbers with 1 tablespoon salt in bowl and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain cucumbers in colander; do not rinse.

2. Meanwhile, bring water and remaining 2 tablespoons salt to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

3. Cut out parchment paper round to match diameter of ½-gallon wide-mouth jar. Tightly pack cucumbers, dill sprigs, garlic, dill seeds, and peppercorns into jar, leaving 2½ inches headspace. Pour cooled brine over cucumbers to cover. Press parchment round flush against surface of brine.

4. Fill 1-quart zipper-lock bag with ½ cup brine, squeeze out air, and seal well; discard excess brine. Place bag of brine on top of parchment and gently press down to submerge cucumbers. Cover jar with triple layer of cheesecloth and secure with rubber band.

5. Place jar in 50- to 70-degree location away from direct sunlight and let ferment for 7 days; check jar daily, skimming residue from surface and pressing to keep pickles submerged. After 7 days, taste pickles daily until they have reached desired flavor (this may take up to 7 days; pickles will look darker with an earthy and tangy flavor).

6. When pickles have reached desired flavor, remove cheesecloth, bag of brine, and parchment, and skim off any residue. Serve. (Pickles and brine can be transferred to clean jar, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 month; once refrigerated, flavor of pickles will continue to mature.)

VARIATION

Garlic Sour Dill Pickles

Increase garlic to 20 smashed cloves.

Pickled Jalapeños

Makes 10 jalapeños MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Pickled jalapeños, commonly served with many Mexican dishes, are typically pickled in a vinegar brine and flavored with bay leaf and onion. While we appreciate the classic, we developed a recipe that was a bit more adventurous. We chose to ferment the jalapeños in order to add deep flavors to an inherently grassy, bright chile. Shallot and garlic provided depth and pungency, the addition of cumin brought earthiness, and strips of lime zest brightened the mix. The pickles took on complex floral notes and an intense heat. Removing the seeds of the chiles before pickling made for pleasantly spicy pickles; for atomic heat, don’t remove the seeds. The ideal environment for fermenting is between 50 and 70 degrees (do not ferment above 70 degrees). The fermentation temperature will affect the timing and flavor of the jalapeños; warmer temperatures will ferment more quickly and produce sharper, more pungent flavors. For a balanced flavor, we prefer a fermentation temperature of 65 degrees. These fermented jalapeños cannot be processed for long-term storage. These pickles need to ferment for at least 10 days or up to 14 days. Use these on tacos or nachos, spice up a Bloody Mary, or chop and add to tuna or chicken salad.

3 cups water

7 teaspoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

1½ tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

10 small jalapeño chiles (2 to 3 inches long), halved lengthwise and seeded

1 shallot, peeled and halved through root end

6 (2-inch) strips lime zest

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1. Bring water, salt, sugar, and cumin to boil in small saucepan over high heat. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Cut out parchment paper round to match diameter of 1-quart wide-mouth jar.

2. Tightly pack jalapeños, shallot, zest, and garlic into jar, leaving 1½-inch headspace. Pour cooled brine over jalapeños to cover and leave 1 inch headspace; vegetables should be so tightly packed that chiles don’t float. Press parchment round flush to surface of brine and press gently to submerge. Cover jar with triple layer of cheesecloth and secure with rubber band.

3. Place jar in 50- to 70-degree location away from direct sunlight and let ferment for 10 days; check jar daily, skimming residue from surface. After 10 days, taste jalapeños daily until they have reached desired flavor (this may take up to 4 days; jalapeños should be softened with tangy, floral flavor).

4. When jalapeños have reached desired flavor, remove cheesecloth and parchment, and skim off any residue. Serve. (Pickled jalapeños and brine can be transferred to clean jar, covered, and refrigerated for up to 5 months; once refrigerated, flavor of jalapeños will continue to mature and they will darken in color.)

SEEDING JALAPEÑOS

Cut the jalapeño in half lengthwise. Then, starting at the end opposite the stem, use a melon baller to scoop out the seeds and ribs from each half.

Crushed Tomatoes

Makes four 1-quart jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Our recipe for crushed tomatoes highlights the vibrancy of ripe tomatoes. To yield 4 quarts, we started with 14 pounds of tomatoes. We couldn’t simply throw this pile of tomatoes into the pot all at once; instead we added the tomatoes in batches, crushing them down as they cooked. After crushing all the tomatoes, we boiled them for 30 minutes just to concentrate the flavors without cooking off the fresh tomato texture and brightness. The addition of lemon juice to each jar helped to acidify the crushed tomatoes so we could can them safely. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). For more information on peeling tomatoes, see this page. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. The batches of tomatoes must be cooked and processed in 2 separate batches. All of the tomatoes can be peeled, cored, and quartered at the same time; refrigerate the second batch until ready.

14 pounds tomatoes, cored, peeled, and cut into 2-inch pieces, divided

¾ cup bottled lemon juice

2 teaspoons table salt

1. Cook one-quarter of tomatoes in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring often, until they release their juices, about 5 minutes. Crush tomatoes with potato masher and cook until no large pieces remain, about 5 minutes. Working in batches, add handful of tomatoes to pot and crush with potato masher; bring to boil before adding next handful.

2. Once all tomatoes have been crushed into pot, continue to boil mixture, reducing heat as needed, until slightly thickened and measures slightly more than 4 quarts, 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-quart jars in rack, and add water to just cover jars. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons lemon juice and ½ teaspoon salt to each hot jar. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot tomatoes into jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on tomatoes to remove air bubbles, and add more tomatoes as needed.

5. While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 45 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 50 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 55 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 1 hour for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rings. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Whole Peeled Tomatoes

Makes four 1-quart jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works To get the freshest flavor from our whole peeled tomatoes, we created a homemade tomato juice to use as a flavorful cooking and packing liquid. Instead of packing the tomatoes raw into jars, we changed our canning method to a “hot pack,” meaning we cooked the tomatoes in juice before gently packing them into jars. This short precooking let the tomatoes release juices and air in the pot rather than in the jars. The addition of Pickle Crisp helped keep the tomatoes firm. You will have a few cups of juice left over that will not fit into the jars. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). For more information on peeling tomatoes, see this page. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. The batches of tomatoes must be cooked and processed in 2 separate batches. All of the tomatoes can be peeled and cored at the same time, and the double batch of juice can be made in step 2; refrigerate the second batch of tomatoes and juice until ready.

13 pounds plum tomatoes, cored and peeled

¾ cup bottled lemon juice

1 tablespoon table salt

1 teaspoon Ball Pickle Crisp (see this page)

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-quart jars in rack, and add water to just cover jars. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Working in 2 batches, process half of tomatoes in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into Dutch oven, pressing on solids to extract juice; discard solids.

3. Bring juice to boil over medium-high heat. Stir in remaining tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook until tomatoes have softened slightly, about 5 minutes; skim foam from surface using large spoon.

4. Meanwhile, place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons lemon juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon Pickle Crisp to each hot jar. Using slotted spoon, gently pack tomatoes into hot jars. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot juice over tomatoes to cover, leaving 1½ inches headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on tomatoes to remove air bubbles, and add extra juice as needed.

5. While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 1 hour 25 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 1½ hours for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 1 hour 35 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 1 hour 40 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 10 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Summer Tomato Sauce

Makes four 1-pint jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works This tomato sauce makes great use of an end-of-summer tomato bounty. We loved the idea of canning a large batch of this fresh sauce so we could open up a jar on a dreary February night. While many rustic tomato sauce recipes include the skins, we found them bitter and their texture distracting from the final product. We infused the sauce with garlic and basil and cooked it down for a more vibrant, intensified flavor. In order to ensure the safety of canning this tomato product, we added 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar to each pint jar; this amount of vinegar ensured the sauce’s pH was in the sweet spot. Just a teaspoon of sugar was enough to coax out the natural sweetness of the tomatoes and balance the acidity of the vinegar. While all types of tomatoes work with this recipe, we preferred this sauce made with plum tomatoes. One jar is enough sauce to coat ½ pound of pasta. For more richness, add a bit of extra-virgin olive oil to the sauce before serving. For more information on peeling tomatoes, see this page. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. Substitute a large stockpot for the Dutch oven and increase the sauce cooking time in step 2 to about 2 hours.

10 pounds tomatoes, cored, peeled, and cut into 1½-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, minced

⅓ cup tomato paste

⅓ cup chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon table salt

1 teaspoon sugar

½ cup red wine vinegar

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-pint jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Working in 4 batches, process tomatoes in blender until almost smooth, 10 to 15 seconds; transfer to Dutch oven. Stir in garlic, tomato paste, basil, salt, and sugar, and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Boil, stirring often and reducing heat as needed, until sauce has thickened and measures slightly more than 2 quarts, 1¼ to 1½ hours.

3. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons vinegar to each hot jar. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot sauce into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar to remove air bubbles and add more sauce as needed.

4A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature. Cover with lids, refrigerate, and serve. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.)

4B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 35 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 40 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 45 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 50 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Spicy Tomato Jam

Makes two 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Spicy tomato jam is a flavorful and unique way to transform your next tray of tomatoes. A great project for anyone new to jam making, this sticky spread is a cinch to make: Just combine everything in a large pot and cook the mixture down to a sweet and spicy ruby-red jam. Leaving the peels on the tomatoes gave our chunky jam a pleasant chew. To achieve the right amount of heat to stand up to the sweet tomato flavors, we found that a single seeded habanero did the trick. This pepper packed the heat we were looking for, and brought a complementary fruity flavor. For an even spicier tomato jam, include the habanero seeds. Serve tomato jam with sharp cheddar cheese or add it to an omelet. It can also zip up a meatloaf or spice up a pizza or flatbread. This jam cannot be processed for long-term storage.

2½ pounds tomatoes, cored and chopped coarse

1 cup red wine vinegar

¾ cup sugar

7 garlic cloves, minced

1 habanero chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon table salt

1. Combine all ingredients in large saucepan and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer vigorously, stirring often and adjusting heat as needed, until mixture has thickened, darkened in color, and measures slightly more than 2 cups, 1 to 1¼ hours.

2. Let jam cool slightly. Using funnel and spoon, portion jam into two 1-cup jars, then let cool to room temperature. Cover, refrigerate, and serve. (Jam can be refrigerated for at least 4 months; flavor will become milder over time.)

Green Tomato Chutney

Makes two 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Accented with the citrusy warmth of crushed coriander seeds, vibrant green tomato chutney is a perfect, and easy, way to use unripe end-of-season tomatoes. Green tomatoes are naturally a little bit sweet and a tad tart, so our recipe plays off these flavors. Much of the green tomato flavor is bound up in the juice, seeds, and peel, so we certainly didn’t want to toss any of that out; instead, we just chopped our tomatoes, combined everything, and simmered. We added a hint of lemon juice, cranked up the heat with red pepper flakes, and used equal parts granulated sugar and white vinegar to round out the flavor. The chutney is ready when the tomatoes have broken down, the vinegar has evaporated, and there are thick, sticky preserves left in the pot. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lemon juice, not fresh-squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). This chutney is great to serve alongside grilled chicken or pork, to use as a relish for hot dogs, or to add to a cheese sandwich.

2¼ pounds green tomatoes, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces

¾ cup sugar

¾ cup distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon coarsely cracked coriander seeds

1 teaspoon table salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons bottled lemon juice

1. Bring tomatoes, sugar, vinegar, coriander, salt, and pepper flakes to boil in large pot over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer vigorously, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens to jam-like consistency and rubber spatula leaves trail when dragged across bottom of pot, about 1 hour.

2. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. Let chutney cool slightly. Using funnel and spoon, portion chutney into two 1-cup jars.

3A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature. Cover with lids, refrigerate, and serve. (Chutney can be refrigerated for up to 5 months; flavor will mellow over time.)

3B. For long-term storage While jars are warm, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Set canning rack in canning pot, fill three-quarters full of water, and bring to boil. Lower hot, filled jars into water and make sure they are covered by at least 1 inch of water (if necessary add more water), cover pot, and bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Roasted Tomato–Lime Salsa

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works To achieve the spicy, smoky-sweet flavor of traditional salsa asada, or “roasted salsa,” we broiled halved tomatoes and red jalapeños, sliced onion, and whole garlic cloves. Cilantro added brightness, while ground cumin provided earthy undertones. Cooking our salsa on the stovetop intensified its flavors and developed a saucier base. To safely process this salsa, we acidified it with lime juice, which also gave it a fresh tang. For safety reasons, be sure to use bottled lime juice, not fresh squeezed juice, in this recipe (see this page). This salsa is fairly spicy; to make it milder, remove and discard the chile seeds. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. Broil the vegetables in 4 batches in step 2 and increase the salsa cooking time in step 4 until it measures slightly more than 8 cups, 20 to 25 minutes.

2½ pounds tomatoes, cored and halved

1 onion, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds

5 red jalapeño or Fresno chiles, stemmed and halved lengthwise

6 garlic cloves, peeled

⅓ cup bottled lime juice

2½ teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place tomatoes, cut side down, and onion on prepared sheet. Broil until tomatoes are well charred, about 15 minutes; transfer to bowl. Place chiles, cut side down, and garlic on now-empty sheet and broil until chiles are well charred, about 8 minutes.

3. Transfer chiles, garlic, half of tomatoes, and half of onions to food processor and process until thick puree, about 10 seconds; transfer to Dutch oven. Transfer remaining broiled tomatoes and onions to now-empty food processor and pulse into ½-inch pieces, 2 or 3 pulses; add to pot.

4. Stir in lime juice, salt, sugar, cilantro, and cumin. Boil over medium-high heat, stirring often, until salsa has thickened slightly and measures slightly more than 4 cups, about 10 minutes.

5. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion hot salsa into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar to remove air bubbles, adding more salsa as needed.

6A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature. Cover with lids, refrigerate, and serve. (Salsa can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.)

6B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 15 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 20 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 25 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, or 30 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Pickle Relish

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works No cookout is complete without pickle relish. A great relish should have bright flavor, a little crunch, and a balanced combination of tanginess and sweetness. Chopping the vegetables into 1-inch pieces before pulsing them in a food processor gave us the texture we were looking for. To avoid a watered-down and mushy relish, we salted the vegetables before a 3-hour rest in the refrigerator. We then rid them of more moisture by squeezing them in a clean dish towel. For flavor, we liked white vinegar along with sugar, yellow mustard seeds, and celery seeds. We added turmeric to impart a warm, bright flavor. To deepen the flavors before canning, we found that a simmer on the stovetop was necessary. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. Pulse the cucumbers in 3 batches, pulse the peppers in 1 batch, and pulse the onions in 2 batches. Increase the simmering time in step 3 to about 30 minutes.

2 pounds pickling cucumbers, ends trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon canning and pickling salt (this page)

2 cups distilled white vinegar

1 cup sugar

4 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

2 teaspoons celery seeds

¾ teaspoon ground turmeric

1. Working in 2 batches, pulse cucumbers in food processor until coarsely chopped into ¼-inch pieces, 8 to 10 pulses; transfer to large bowl. Pulse bell pepper until coarsely chopped into ¼-inch pieces, about 6 pulses; transfer to bowl with cucumbers. Pulse onion until coarsely chopped into ¼-inch pieces, about 10 pulses; transfer to bowl with vegetables. Stir in salt, cover, and refrigerate for 3 hours.

2. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

3. Drain vegetables in colander, transfer to dish towel, and squeeze to remove excess liquid. Bring vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, and turmeric to boil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add vegetables, reduce heat to medium, and simmer until vegetables are translucent and mixture has thickened slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion relish into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on relish, to remove air bubbles.

5A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature. Cover with lids, refrigerate, and serve. (Relish can be refrigerated for up to 4 months; flavor will deepen over time.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, and 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Tangy Corn Relish

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works This bright and tangy corn relish adds a summery flair to hot dogs, burgers, and sandwiches. To maintain the freshness of the corn, we used raw corn and let the warm pickling brine do its work. We simmered our aromatics in vinegar until softened, and stirred in the corn off the heat. This kept the corn fresh and crisp, especially after the processing time. To punch up the flavor, we used poblano peppers and added red jalapeño chiles for a hint of heat and bright color. Cumin seeds and ground coriander added the right spice without overpowering the mild corn flavor, and sugar brought out the natural sweetness of the corn and helped to balance the tangy vinegar. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients; the simmering time will not change.

1¼ cups cider vinegar

¼ cup water

¼ cup sugar

2½ teaspoons canning or pickling salt (this page)

¾ teaspoon cumin seeds

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

2 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces

2 red jalapeño or Fresno chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine

1 small onion, chopped fine

4 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (3 cups)

1. Set canning rack in large pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

2. Bring vinegar, water, sugar, salt, cumin seeds, and coriander to boil in Dutch oven over high heat. Add poblanos, jalapeños, and onion, reduce heat to medium, and simmer until softened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in corn.

3. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion relish into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on relish, to remove air bubbles.

4A. For short-term storage Let relish cool to room temperature. Cover, refrigerate, and serve. (Relish can be refrigerated for up to 1 month; flavor will deepen over time.)

4B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 15 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 20 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 25 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, and 30 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims. (Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Chow-Chow

Makes four 1-cup jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Chow-chow is a sweet green tomato relish packed with mustard seeds and celery seeds. There are countless regional variations, some with cauliflower, others with cabbage or peppers. While Pennsylvania chow-chow is sweeter, we liked the Southern take with a kick to balance the syrupy juices in this relish. We chose a combination of jalapeño and cayenne for heat. Bell peppers provided a mild fruitiness, and cabbage lent crispness. We found that using a food processor gave us the perfect size pieces. Salting the vegetables for 3 hours pulled out any excess moisture. Our other pickle relish recipes often squeeze the salted vegetables out with a towel to remove any excess moisture. We found this to be too rough with the cabbage; it drew too much liquid from the tomatoes, leaving nothing behind to make a juicy brine. We waited to add the vegetables to the brine until it was off the heat; this kept the cabbage crisp and the peppers and tomatoes firm. To double the recipe double all of the ingredients. Pulse the vegetables in 6 batches. Increase the brine simmering time in step 3 to about 8 minutes.

3 green tomatoes, cored and chopped coarse

1 cup coarsely chopped green cabbage

1 cup coarsely chopped green bell pepper

½ cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper

½ cup coarsely chopped onion

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

1½ tablespoons canning and pickling salt (see this page)

½ cup distilled white vinegar

½ cup sugar

1¼ teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

½ teaspoon celery seeds

¼ teaspoon turmeric

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Combine tomatoes, cabbage, bell peppers, onion, and jalapeño in bowl. Working in 3 batches, pulse vegetables in food processor until pieces measure ¼ to ½ inch, 4 to 6 pulses; transfer to separate bowl. Stir in salt, cover, and refrigerate for 3 hours.

2. Set canning rack in canning pot, place four 1-cup jars in rack, and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to simmer over medium-high heat, then turn off heat and cover to keep hot.

3. Transfer vegetables to colander and let drain for 20 minutes. Bring vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, turmeric, and cayenne to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Reduce to simmer and cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in drained vegetables.

4. Place dish towel flat on counter. Using jar lifter, remove jars from pot, draining water back into pot. Place jars upside down on towel and let dry for 1 minute. Using funnel and ladle, portion relish into hot jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Slide wooden skewer along inside of jar, pressing slightly on relish, to remove air bubbles.

5A. For short-term storage Let jars cool to room temperature. Cover with lids, refrigerate, and serve. (Relish can be refrigerated for at least 6 months.)

5B. For long-term storage While jars are hot, wipe rims clean, add lids, and screw on rings until fingertip-tight; do not overtighten. Return pot of water with canning rack to boil. Lower jars into water, cover, bring water back to boil, then start timer. Cooking time will depend on your altitude: Boil 10 minutes for up to 1,000 feet, 15 minutes for 1,001 to 3,000 feet, 20 minutes for 3,001 to 6,000 feet, and 25 minutes for 6,001 to 8,000 feet. Turn off heat and let jars sit in pot for 5 minutes. Remove jars from pot and let cool for 24 hours. Remove rings, check seal, and clean rims.(Sealed jars can be stored for up to 1 year.)

Peach Mostarda

Makes two 1-pint wide-mouth jars MAKE AHEAD

Why This Recipe Works Mostarda is an Italian condiment featuring candied fruit in a mustardy syrup. It can be served with grilled meats, added to a sandwich, or spooned over couscous or rice. Our version preserves cooked peaches in a syrup created from the peaches’ juices. With the kick from dry and whole-grain mustard, the warmth from spices, and the sweet-tart hit from cider vinegar, sugar, and orange juice, our mostarda packs a flavorful punch. For more information on peeling peaches, see this page. Do not use white peaches in this recipe; they are not acidic enough for safe long-term storage. Both freshly squeezed and store-bought orange juice will work in this recipe. This fruit cannot be processed for long-term storage.

2 pounds ripe but firm yellow peaches, peeled, halved, and pitted

2 cups sugar

⅔ cup orange juice

¾ teaspoon table salt

5 whole cloves

3 star anise pods

3 bay leaves

¼ cup dry mustard

¼ cup whole-grain mustard

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Combine peaches, sugar, orange juice, salt, cloves, star anise, and bay leaves in large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.

2. Using slotted spoon, gently transfer peaches to separate bowl. Transfer juice to large saucepan and cook over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add peaches to syrup and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until peaches are just tender and tip of knife inserted into peach meets with very little resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove pot from heat.

3. Meanwhile, place two 1-pint wide-mouth jars in bowl and place under hot running water until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes; shake dry.

4. Using slotted spoon, gently pack peaches into hot jars. Return syrup to boil over medium heat and cook until syrup measures 1⅔ cups, 5 to 10 minutes; remove from heat. Combine dry mustard, whole-grain mustard, vinegar, and cayenne in bowl, then whisk into syrup.

5. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot syrup over peaches to cover, distributing spices evenly among jars. Let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate for 1 week before serving. (Mostarda can be refrigerated for up to 3 months.)