Why This Recipe Works Nothing says summer like a juicy burger. For quick weeknight burgers or a backyard barbecue, choosing the right store-bought ground beef was a necessity to produce tender patties. Generically labeled “ground beef” can be a combination of different cuts that yields fatty, greasy, or mushy burgers, but 85 percent lean ground chuck gave us burgers with rich, beefy flavor and a tender, moist texture. Our first few batches puffed up like tennis balls, but we quickly figured out that slightly indenting the center of each burger helped them cook evenly. For the ultimate versatility, we devised methods to cook up these burgers both in a skillet and on the grill, so perfect patties are possible whether you’re cooking inside or outdoors. Serve with classic condiments, lettuce, and sliced ripe tomatoes, or try one of our homemade toppings on this page.
1½ pounds 85 percent lean ground beef
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon vegetable oil, if using skillet
4 slices cheese (4 ounces) (optional)
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Divide ground beef into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
2A. For a skillet Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Transfer patties to skillet, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2B. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2C. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
Why This Recipe Works There’s nothing worse than rushing to the grill to check your burger and finding it has passed medium and hit the dreaded well-done stage—at least, that’s what we believed before we perfected the well-done burger. There are plenty of reasons to opt for well-done: It makes the cooking more hands-off and it requires less precise timing than rarer patties. Taste tests proved that well-done burgers made from 80 percent lean ground chuck were noticeably moister than burgers made from leaner beef, but they still weren’t juicy enough; adding a panade—a paste of bread and milk—stemmed moisture loss and ensured the burgers were mouthwateringly tender. To punch up the flavor, we added minced garlic and tangy steak sauce. Make sure to use 80 percent lean ground beef; leaner ground beef will result in a drier burger. Serve with classic condiments, lettuce, and sliced ripe tomatoes, or try one of our homemade toppings on this page.
1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, crust removed, torn into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons milk
2 teaspoons steak sauce
1 garlic clove, minced
1½ pounds 80 percent lean ground beef
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons vegetable oil, if using skillet
4 slices American cheese (4 ounces) (optional)
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Using fork, mash bread, milk, steak sauce, and garlic to paste in large bowl. Break ground beef into small pieces and add to bowl with bread mixture. Gently knead with your hands until well combined. Divide beef mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
2A. For a skillet Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Transfer patties to skillet, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, about 5 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 140 to 145 degrees (for medium-well) or 150 to 155 degrees (for well-done), 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2B. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 140 to 145 degrees (for medium-well) or 150 to 155 degrees (for well-done), 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2C. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook, covered, until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 140 to 145 degrees (for medium-well) or 150 to 155 degrees (for well-done), 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
KETCHUP
We tasted a lineup of eight classic tomato ketchups plain and with fries. In the end, we found that we preferred Heinz Organic Tomato Ketchup. Tasters deemed it “bright and fresh,” with “well-rounded ketchup-y flavor.” Its bold, harmonious punch of saltiness, sweetness, tang, and tomato flavor nudged it into first place. Overall, tasters praised this ketchup as being “like ketchup should be.”
Grilled Bacon Burgers with Caramelized Onions and Blue Cheese
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Smoky, salty bacon can take any burger to the next level, but burgers with just a few strips on top fail to deliver bold bacon flavor. Our version nixes the strips and mixes bacon directly into the burger for bacony bliss in every bite. Mixing raw bacon with raw ground beef overworked and compressed the patties so that they cooked up tough and dry, and cooked crumbled bacon—though it mixed in better—was too crunchy. For the perfect balance of bacon flavor and juicy texture, we processed raw bacon in the food processor and then cooked it briefly in a skillet. The parcooked pieces incorporated easily into the ground beef and dispersed bacon flavor more evenly throughout while the burgers stayed moist and juicy. Instead of tossing the leftover bacon fat, we used it to sauté some onions, which provided salty balance to their sweet flavor. To turn these burgers into a savory showstopper, we topped them with rich and creamy crumbled blue cheese.
8 slices bacon
1 large onion, halved and sliced thin
¼ teaspoon table salt
1½ pounds 85 percent lean ground beef
¼ teaspoon pepper
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled and chilled (1 cup)
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Process bacon in food processor to smooth paste, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Cook bacon in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, breaking up pieces with wooden spoon, until lightly browned in spots but still pink (do not cook until crisp), about 5 minutes. Drain bacon in fine-mesh strainer set over bowl. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate and let cool completely. Reserve bacon fat.
2. Add 2 tablespoons reserved fat to now-empty skillet and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt and cook until well browned, about 20 minutes. Transfer to bowl and set aside.
3. Break ground beef into small pieces and spread into even layer on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with bacon and gently toss to combine using 2 forks. Divide beef mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties, top with blue cheese, and continue to cook until well browned on second side and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium rare) or 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns, topped with onions.
Farmers’ Market Find Onions
Onions, shallots, scallions, and leeks all belong to the allium family and are available year-round. Onions from the farmers’ market sometimes come with their long, green stalks still attached to the bulb. Sweet onions, in particular, are best when fresh from the farmers’ market, because their natural flavor is much more pronounced. Purchase rock-hard onions covered with smooth, papery skin. Avoid any with soft or dark powdery spots or green sprouts. Stored in a cool, well-ventilated spot, onions will keep for several weeks. When buying scallions and leeks, look for firm stalks, with crisp dark-green leaves and healthy-looking attached roots. Avoid leeks that have had their greens trimmed. Refrigerate them in an open plastic produce bag for a week.
Yellow Onions These all-purpose gold standards of the onion world are sweet and rich when cooked. Spanish onions are a larger, milder, firmer variety.
Red Onions Crisply pungent when raw (they’re great on burgers), red onions are jammier than yellow onions when cooked.
White Onions White onions have a simpler, less complex flavor than yellow onions and break down more quickly when cooked.
Sweet Onions Vidalia, Maui, Walla Walla, and other sweet onions are best when they are the star of the dish.
Pearl Onions Pearl onions and Italian cipollini onions are intensely sweet when cooked.
Shallots Like garlic, shallots comprise a head with multiple cloves. Raw or cooked, they have a mellow oniony-garlicky flavor.
Scallions The earthy flavor and delicate crunch of scallions work well in dishes that involve little or no cooking.
Leeks The edible portions of leeks are found in their long, leafy stalks; there is no bulb. Their flavor is the mildest of all.
Why This Recipe Works A lean, flavorful turkey burger is a delicious alternative to the classic beef burger, and we wanted to create a simple and satisfying patty that would be the perfect base for a variety of bold and flavorful summery toppings. To start, we took a close look at the ground turkey sold in supermarkets and found a few kinds: ground white meat, ground dark meat, and 93 percent lean ground turkey. Our tasters preferred the flavor of 93 percent lean ground turkey. For extra richness, we added melted butter, which kept the burgers moist and juicy. A little bit of Worcestershire and Dijon mustard added plenty of flavor and a pleasant tang to the mild meat. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe. Serve with classic condiments, lettuce, and sliced ripe tomatoes, or try one of our homemade toppings on this page.
1½ pounds ground turkey
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons vegetable oil, if using skillet
4 slices cheese (4 ounces) (optional)
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Break ground turkey into small pieces in large bowl. Add melted butter, Worcestershire, and mustard and gently knead with your hands until well combined. Divide turkey mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
2A. For a skillet Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Transfer patties to skillet, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2B. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side and meat easily releases from grill, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
2C. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side and meat easily releases from grill, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip patties, top with cheese, if using, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve burgers on buns.
Why This Recipe Works To translate the popular combination of chicken, buffalo sauce, and celery into a spicy burger made for a hot summer day, we started off with ground chicken and then added some Worcestershire and shallot for umami. We learned from our Classic Turkey Burgers that melted butter helped keep the patties moist during cooking. For a bold buffalo sauce to top our burgers that would be cohesive enough to cling to the patties, we added cornstarch and molasses to the traditional hot sauce and butter. Piling on blue cheese before serving added a pungent counterpoint to the hot sauce. In a nod to the classic buffalo accompaniment, we topped our burgers with thinly sliced celery along with the leaves, which brought pleasing crispness and refreshing contrast. If the delicate leaves attached to the celery stalks are not available, you can omit them. We prefer a mild blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola, for this recipe. Be sure to use ground chicken, not ground chicken breast (also labeled 99 percent fat free), or the burgers will be tough.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons melted and cooled, divided
6 tablespoons hot sauce
1 tablespoon molasses
½ teaspoon cornstarch
1½ pounds ground chicken
1 large shallot, minced
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
¼ teaspoon pepper
½ teaspoon table salt
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 Bibb lettuce leaves
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
2 ounces mild blue cheese, crumbled (½ cup), room temperature
1 celery rib, sliced thin on bias, plus ¼ cup celery leaves
1. Microwave 4 tablespoons butter, hot sauce, molasses, and cornstarch in bowl, whisking occasionally, until butter is melted and mixture has thickened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes; cover to keep warm and set aside.
2. Break ground chicken into small pieces in large bowl. Add remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter, shallot, Worcestershire, and pepper and gently knead with your hands until well combined. Divide chicken mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
3. Sprinkle patties with salt. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until just smoking. Transfer patties to skillet, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip patties, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter, brush with half of buffalo sauce, and let rest for 5 minutes.
4. Arrange lettuce on bun bottoms. Serve burgers on buns, topped with blue cheese, celery, and celery leaves, passing remaining buffalo sauce separately.
INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
BURGER BUNS
Juicy burgers require top-notch buns. Our favorites are Martin’s Sandwich Potato Rolls; they boast a mild sweetness that pairs well with a rich burger. They also have a particularly light, tender, moist texture. That’s because instead of hydrating the dough with water, Martin’s uses a mixture of potato flakes, milk, and butter (essentially mashed potatoes). Mashed potatoes are hefty and substantial, but in potato rolls, the milk protein and butterfat weaken the structure of the dough, leaving the rolls softer, moister, and more tender.
Why This Recipe Works Lamb might not be your first thought when it comes to burgers, but with its earthy flavor and tender texture—and with a charred onion topping that grills right alongside the patty—this easy, flavor-packed burger is sure to become your new barbecue favorite. Lamb’s distinctive taste pairs perfectly with the bold flavor of harissa, a traditional North African condiment with irresistibly complex chile flavor. Cool, creamy mayonnaise provides a rich base for our spicy harissa-spiked sauce, and a blast of fresh mint and lemon zest balances out the harissa’s heat. Harissa, a chile paste, can be found in the international aisle of your supermarket, usually with Middle Eastern or Indian ingredients. The red color of the harissa makes these burgers look more rare than they actually are—use an instant-read thermometer to accurately check doneness.
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons harissa, divided
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest, divided
1½ pounds ground lamb
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 red onion, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon table salt
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1 cup baby arugula
1. Combine mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon harissa, mint, and ½ teaspoon lemon zest in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste; cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. Break ground lamb into small pieces in large bowl. Add remaining 1 tablespoon harissa, remaining 1 teaspoon lemon zest, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and gently knead with your hands until well combined. Divide lamb mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Using your fingertips, press center of each patty down until about ½ inch thick, creating slight divot.
3. Push toothpick horizontally through each onion round to keep rings intact while grilling. Brush onion rounds with oil.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place onion rounds on grill and cook (covered if using gas) until softened and lightly charred, 3 to 6 minutes per side. As they finish cooking, transfer onion rounds to bowl and cover to keep warm.
6. Meanwhile, sprinkle patties with salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Place patties on grill, divot side up, and cook until well browned on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip patties and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare) or 130 to 135 (for medium), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to platter and let rest for 5 minutes.
7. Remove toothpicks from onion rounds and separate into rings. Spread mayonnaise mixture on bun tops. Serve burgers on buns, topped with onion and arugula.
Why This Recipe Works Rich, flavorful salmon should make for exceptional burgers, but too often the fish overcooks and dries out or the patties turn into a textureless mess. For delicious burgers with meaty flavor and tender texture, we coarsely chopped chunks of fish in a food processor in three batches. Briefly refrigerating the patties helped them hold their shape when cooked. To build a crispy crust without overcooking the fish, we opted to sear the patties in a skillet. We wanted a chutney topping that would highlight the flavor of tomatoes without overpowering it, so we kept the flavorings minimal—Asian sweet chili sauce, bright lemon juice, and fresh cilantro—and cooked the mixture until it had thickened into a sweet-yet-spicy topping. If using wild salmon, which contains less fat, cook the burgers to 120 degrees (for medium-rare).
1¼ pounds skinless salmon, cut into 1-inch pieces
½ cup panko bread crumbs
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided
8 scallions, minced, divided
3 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
3 tablespoons Asian sweet chili sauce
½ teaspoon table salt
4 Bibb lettuce leaves
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Working in 3 batches, pulse salmon in food processor until coarsely chopped into ¼-inch pieces, about 2 pulses, transferring each batch to large bowl.
2. Add panko, 6 tablespoons cilantro, 3 tablespoons scallions, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, mayonnaise, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to chopped salmon and gently knead with hands until well combined. Using your lightly moistened hands, divide salmon mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into 1-inch-thick patty. Place patties on parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 24 hours.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add ginger and remaining scallions and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, chili sauce, and remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice and cook until mixture is very thick, about 6 minutes. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chutney to bowl and wipe out skillet with paper towels.
4. Sprinkle patties with salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Cook patties until browned, centers are still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife, and burgers register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), about 4 minutes per side. Arrange lettuce on bun bottoms. Serve burgers on buns, topped with chutney.
Grilled Tuna Burgers with Wasabi and Pickled Ginger
Serves 4MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Tuna’s rich, meaty texture makes for an outstanding burger patty, but because the fish is so lean, tuna burgers are prone to cooking up dry and disappointing. To ensure that our burgers would retain good texture and flavor, we hand-chopped the fish and then combined it with a little garlic and pickled ginger, which paired well with the tuna’s distinctive flavor without overpowering it. The fragile nature of the patties made them prone to sticking, but wiping the grill grate with well-oiled paper towels multiple times to build up a stick-resistant coating solved this problem. Coating the spatula with vegetable oil spray also helped loosen the burgers from the cooking grate. To avoid dry burgers we made sure we didn’t overcook the tuna, taking the patties off the grill when they reached medium-rare. A simple wasabi mayonnaise paired wonderfully with the tuna, and in place of the traditional bun we served these delicate burgers in crisp lettuce wraps along with a few crunchy vegetables. Extra pickled ginger on top lent additional tangy flavor. Do not let these burgers overcook; tuna tends to get very dry when cooked for too long. You can serve this burger with a simple salad on the side instead of the lettuce wraps.
½ cup mayonnaise
1½ tablespoons wasabi powder
1 teaspoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon water
1¼ pounds skinless tuna steaks
2 teaspoons minced pickled ginger, plus 2 tablespoons pickled ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
8 large iceberg lettuce leaves
6 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
2 scallions, sliced thin on bias
1. Whisk mayonnaise, wasabi, soy sauce, and water together in bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 3 days.
2. Chop tuna into ¼-inch pieces. Using rocking motion, continue to chop tuna until it is coarsely chopped into pieces roughly ⅛ inch each; transfer to bowl. Add minced pickled ginger and garlic and gently knead with your hands until well combined. Using your lightly moistened hands, divide tuna mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into 1-inch-thick patty. Place patties on parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 24 hours.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave burners on high.
4. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper.
5. Using greased spatula, place patties on grill and cook until well browned on first side and patties easily release from grill, about 3 minutes. Gently flip patties and continue to cook until well browned on second side, centers are still reddish pink when checked with tip of paring knife, and burgers register 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 3 minutes.
6. Stack lettuce leaves together to create 4 lettuce wraps. Serve burgers on lettuce wraps, topped with wasabi mayonnaise, radishes, scallions, and remaining 2 tablespoons pickled ginger.
Why This Recipe Works Shrimp may seem like an unconventional choice for a burger, but our version of this Southern fisherman’s summertime special combines the sweet taste of shrimp with a bread-crumb coating that mimics the taste and crunch of golden fried seafood. Most shrimp burger recipes call for cooked shrimp, but we were disappointed by how dry and rubbery this made our burgers. Instead, we opted to start with raw shrimp so that we could control the cooking. Pulsing a small amount of shrimp in the food processor with mayonnaise gave us a sticky paste that was the perfect binder for our burgers, and leaving the remaining shrimp coarse ensured meaty bites. Grinding the panko to a fine powder helped our coating to thoroughly cover and stick to our burgers while they cooked. Served with a simple tartar sauce, this burger is certainly seaworthy. If you’re purchasing peeled and deveined shrimp, you should buy about 1¼ pounds.
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1½ pounds large shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, divided
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 scallions, chopped fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 Bibb lettuce leaves
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1 recipe Tartar Sauce
1. Pulse panko in food processor until finely ground, about 15 pulses; transfer to shallow dish. Place one-third of shrimp (1 cup), mayonnaise, salt, pepper, and cayenne in now-empty processor and pulse until shrimp are finely chopped, about 8 pulses. Add remaining shrimp to shrimp mixture in processor and pulse until coarsely chopped, about 4 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer shrimp mixture to bowl and stir in scallions.
2. Using your lightly moistened hands, divide shrimp mixture into 4 equal portions, then gently shape each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. Working with 1 patty at a time, dredge both sides in panko, pressing lightly to adhere, and transfer to plate.
3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Cook patties until golden brown and register 140 to 145 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer burgers to paper towel–lined plate and let drain, about 30 seconds per side. Arrange lettuce on bun bottoms. Serve burgers on buns, topped with tartar sauce.
Tartar Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
¾ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons finely chopped dill pickles plus 1 teaspoon brine
1 small shallot, minced
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped fine
¼ teaspoon pepper
Combine all ingredients in bowl and refrigerate until flavors meld, about 15 minutes. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
Why This Recipe Works As with many meatless patties, black bean burgers often get their structure from fillers that turn the burgers into a gluey mess and rob them of their black bean flavor. We wanted burgers that featured earthy bean flavor at their heart with just enough seasoning and mix-ins to give them a little zest and intrigue. For convenient and reliable beans, we turned to canned. Thoroughly drying the beans and grinding them coarse helped prevent pasty, soggy patties. Scallions and cilantro added fresh bite, while garlic, hot sauce, cumin, and coriander amped up the Southwestern-inspired flavor of the bean mixture. To avoid an overly soft, mealy patty, we used a combination of flour and ground tortilla chips, which added pleasant texture, to bind our spice-infused burgers. Refrigerating the mixture for at least an hour before forming patties allowed it to firm up so the patties would better hold their shape when cooked. For easy veggie burgers on a busy weeknight, make the patties in advance and freeze them. When forming the patties, it’s important to pack them together firmly.
2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 scallions, minced
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, plus 1 cup leaves, divided
1. Spread beans onto rimmed baking sheet lined with triple layer of paper towels and let drain for 15 minutes. In large bowl, whisk eggs and flour into uniform paste, then stir in scallions, minced cilantro, garlic, hot sauce, cumin, coriander, and salt.
2. Process tortilla chips in food processor until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Add black beans and pulse until beans are roughly broken down, about 5 pulses. Stir processed bean mixture into egg mixture until well combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
3. Divide bean mixture into 6 equal portions. Using your lightly moistened hands, tightly pack each portion into ½-inch-thick patty. (Patties can be frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze, transfer patties to parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze until firm, about 1 hour. Stack patties, separated by parchment paper; wrap in plastic wrap; and place in zipper-lock freezer bag. Thaw patties completely before cooking.)
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Place 3 patties in skillet and cook until well browned and crisp on first side, about 5 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, gently flip patties, add 2 teaspoons oil to skillet, and cook until well browned and crisp on second side, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to prepared rack and keep warm in oven. Repeat with remaining 4 teaspoons oil and remaining 3 patties. Spread chipotle sauce over bun bottoms. Serve burgers on buns, topped with avocados, pickled onions, and remaining 1 cup cilantro leaves.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
FREEZING BURGERS
When patties are frozen, water vapor escapes from the surface, migrates through an air space in the package, and condenses on the inner surface of the package. The result is a burger patty covered with ice crystals—what’s commonly known as freezer burn. Freezer burn indicates a loss of moisture in the food and should be avoided. The food is still safe to eat, but the quality has suffered. To prevent freezer burn, stack patties, separated by parchment paper, wrap in plastic wrap, and place in a zipper-lock freezer bag.
Burger Sauces and Toppings
No burger would be complete without sauces and toppings to add richness, moisture, flavor, and texture. You can’t go wrong with the standard ketchup and mustard or lettuce and tomato, but for a quick burger boost consider one of these easy upgrades.
Classic Burger Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup ketchup
2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon pepper
Whisk all ingredients together in bowl. (Sauce can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)
Pub-Style Burger Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
This sauce can be made vegan by substituting vegan mayonnaise and vegan Worcestershire sauce.
¾ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon minced chives
1 garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon pepper
Whisk all ingredients together in bowl. (Sauce can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)
Chipotle Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
2 garlic cloves, minced
Combine all ingredients in bowl; refrigerate until ready to serve. (Sauce can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)
Sautéed Mushroom Topping
Makes about 1½ cups
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 onion, chopped
1¼ pounds cremini or white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin
¼ teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup dry white wine
1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in mushrooms and salt and increase heat to medium-high. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their moisture, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Remove lid, add remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are deep golden brown and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in thyme and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until liquid is nearly evaporated, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Crispy Bacon
Serves 4
6 slices bacon, halved crosswise
Place bacon in 12-inch skillet and add just enough water to cover (about ½ cup). Bring to simmer over medium-high heat and cook until water has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low and cook bacon until crisp and well browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate to drain.
Why This Recipe Works To create a veggie burger as hearty as any meat burger, we combined starchy pinto beans, vibrant beet, and wholesome bulgur in a patty rich with both protein and flavor. Meatless burgers are prone to crumbling, and although bread crumbs helped to keep the patties from falling apart, they weren’t enough alone. We discovered a surprisingly perfect vegan binder—carrot baby food, which added tackiness to help the burgers hold their shape and a subtle sweetness that heightened the flavor of the beet. Ground nuts lent extra meaty flavor, and a generous amount of basil added bright, aromatic notes. As a bonus, these patties are perfect to make ahead and freeze for superfast weeknight burgers. Use a coarse grater or the shredding disk of a food processor to shred the beet.
1½ teaspoons table salt, plus salt for cooking bulgur
⅔ cup medium-grind bulgur, rinsed
1 large beet (9 ounces), peeled and shredded
¾ cup walnuts
½ cup fresh basil leaves
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans, rinsed
1 (4-ounce) jar carrot baby food
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
½ teaspoon pepper
1½ cups panko bread crumbs
6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided, plus extra as needed
8 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1. Bring 1½ cups water and ½ teaspoon salt to boil in small saucepan. Off heat, stir in bulgur, cover, and let sit until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain bulgur, spread onto rimmed baking sheet, and let cool slightly.
2. Pulse beet, walnuts, basil, and garlic in food processor until finely chopped, about 12 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add beans, carrot baby food, 2 tablespoons water, mustard, salt, and pepper and pulse until well combined, about 8 pulses. Transfer mixture to large bowl and stir in panko and cooled bulgur.
3. Divide beet-bulgur mixture into 8 equal portions, then tightly pack each portion into ¾-inch-thick patty. (Patties can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. To freeze, transfer patties to parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze until firm, about 1 hour. Stack patties, separated by parchment paper, wrap in plastic wrap, and place in zipper-lock freezer bag. Do not thaw patties before cooking.)
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Place 4 patties in skillet and cook until well browned and crisp on first side, about 4 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, gently flip patties and continue to cook until well browned and crisp on second side, about 4 minutes, adding extra oil as needed if skillet looks dry. Transfer burgers to prepared rack and keep warm in oven. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels and repeat with remaining 3 tablespoons oil and remaining 4 patties. Serve burgers on buns.
FLIPPING A DELICATE BURGER
To flip delicate burger, slide 1 spatula under patty and use second spatula to support and guide patty as you flip it.
Grilled Portobello Burgers with Goat Cheese and Arugula
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works When the king of mushrooms meets the heat of the grill, magic happens as its texture softens and its earthy, rich flavor deepens. Layer this portobello burger with melty goat cheese and peppery arugula, top it off with a tomato slice and smoky grilled onion, and you have a meatless burger featuring an irresistible combination of flavors and textures. Portobello mushroom gills can have an off-flavor, so we scraped them out to avoid a muddy taste. Before cooking, we lightly scored the smooth side of the mushroom with a crosshatch pattern to expedite the release of moisture and give the caps a more tender texture.
4 portobello mushroom caps (4 to 5 inches in diameter), gills removed
1 large red onion, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds (do not separate rings)
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
¼ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 ounces goat cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
1 cup baby arugula
¼ teaspoon balsamic vinegar
4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
1 tomato, cored and sliced thin
1. Cut 1⁄16-inch-deep slits on top side of mushroom caps, spaced ½ inch apart, in crosshatch pattern. Brush onion with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Combine garlic, thyme, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons oil in bowl.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place mushrooms, gill side down, and onion on grill. Cook mushrooms (covered if using gas) until lightly charred and beginning to soften on gill side, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip mushrooms, brush with oil-garlic mixture, and cook until tender and browned on second side, 4 to 6 minutes. Sprinkle with goat cheese and let cheese melt, about 2 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, cook onion, turning as needed, until lightly charred on both sides, 8 to 12 minutes. As they finish cooking, transfer mushrooms and onion to platter and tent with aluminum foil.
5. Toss arugula with vinegar and remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Separate onion rings. Place arugula and mushroom caps on buns. Top with tomato and onion. Serve.
Chicken Avocado Salad Sandwiches
Serve 4FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works A rich chicken salad sandwich is a summer lunchtime staple that comes together in seconds, but we wanted a version that wasn’t laden with heavy mayonnaise. Instead, we found that we could achieve the same tangy flavor from a combination of buttermilk and a bright lime vinaigrette. For a lighter add-in that would lend the creamy texture we were after, we turned to avocado. Mashing the ripe avocado into the dressing gave us exactly the right consistency for our summery chicken salad. For best results, be sure to use a very ripe avocado. You can substitute rotisserie chicken for the cooked chicken in this recipe.
1. Combine buttermilk, lime juice, oil, sugar, salt, and pepper in medium bowl. Add avocado and mash into dressing with fork. Stir in chicken until fully combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Place heaping ½ cup chicken salad on each of 4 bread slices. Divide and arrange lettuce and tomatoes over chicken salad, then top with remaining bread slices. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Why This Recipe Works With just a few ingredients, this chicken salad quickly packs in boldly spiced flavor to upgrade the traditional cool, tangy mayo. Curry powder, cayenne, lime juice, and ginger mixed in with the mayonnaise transformed the standard chicken salad dressing into a flavor-packed sauce with bright heat. For crunch, celery was a must, and chopped cashews added extra texture and toasted flavor. To balance out the textures, lightly sweet raisins added chewy bite. Shallots and cilantro lent bright freshness to finish off this elevated and elegant chicken salad. This salad can be served in a sandwich or spooned over leafy greens. You can substitute rotisserie chicken for the cooked chicken in this recipe.
1. Microwave oil, curry powder, and cayenne in bowl until oil is hot, about 30 seconds. Whisk mayonnaise, lime juice, ginger, and curry mixture together in large bowl.
2. Add chicken, celery, shallot, cashews, raisins, and cilantro to mayonnaise mixture and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Chicken Caesar Salad Wraps
Serves 4FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Caesar salad with chicken is a classic combination, but to easily make the ubiquitous flavors transportable, we wrapped them up for a delicious handheld meal. The Caesar-inspired dressing does double duty, flavoring the salad greens as well as the chicken. Mayonnaise and umami-rich Parmesan were a must as the base for the traditional dressing. For extra tanginess, we added Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, and garlic. Olive oil helped thin the dressing to the perfect creamy consistency to thoroughly coat our lettuce and chicken. For convenience and speed, we turned to pre-cooked chicken. Tearing the lettuce into bite-size pieces ensured that the wrap was easy to eat without making a mess. You can substitute rotisserie chicken for the cooked chicken in this recipe.
1 romaine lettuce heart (6 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces
4 (10-inch) flour tortillas
1. Whisk mayonnaise, Parmesan, lemon juice, Worcestershire, mustard, and garlic in bowl until combined. Whisk in oil slowly until thoroughly incorporated.
2. Toss chicken with half of dressing and toss romaine with remaining dressing. Lay tortillas on counter. Divide chicken equally among tortillas. Top chicken on each tortilla with 1 cup dressed lettuce mixture and roll into wraps. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works For a fast and easy summer sandwich with tons of beefy, char-grilled flavor, skirt steak—which takes only about 5 minutes to grill to doneness—was the perfect choice. A bold blue cheese spread that comes together in seconds with mayonnaise, vinegar, and Dijon mustard made for a creamy, tangy addition to the rich steak. Thick, hearty ciabatta rolls slathered in the cheesy spread were a sturdy base for our juicy, tender steak. Quickly grilling the rolls added an extra hit of charred flavor, and a final topping of peppery arugula and crunchy red onion finished off these simple steak sandwiches.
¾ cup mayonnaise
3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled (¾ cup)
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 (1-pound) skirt steak, cut crosswise into 4 equal pieces and trimmed
½ teaspoon table salt
4 ciabatta sandwich rolls, halved lengthwise
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula
1 small red onion, halved and sliced thin
1. Process mayonnaise, blue cheese, vinegar, mustard, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds. Set aside blue cheese sauce.
2a. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2b. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Pat steak dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Brush cut sides of rolls with oil. Grill steak until meat registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer steak to carving board and tent with foil. Grill rolls, cut side down, until lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Slice steak thin against grain. Spread blue cheese sauce on rolls. Divide steak, arugula, and onion evenly among rolls. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Tuna Niçoise Salad Sandwiches
Serves 4FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works To transform a French classic—the venerable niçoise salad—into a hearty summer sandwich that’s perfect for a picnic, we traded the usual garnish of briny niçoise olives for jarred black olive tapenade, which packs all the quintessential flavors of Provence—garlic, olives, anchovies, capers, and olive oil—into a single handy spread. We then coated the tuna in a light dressing and piled it on a hollowed-out baguette with lettuce, hard-cooked eggs, and radishes. If you can’t find tuna packed in olive oil, substitute water-packed solid white tuna (do not use tuna packed in vegetable oil). Olive tapenade, which is sometimes sold as olive spread, is a robustly flavored condiment made from olives, garlic, olive oil, and sometimes capers and anchovies. We recommend using a baguette that is about 3½ inches thick at its thickest point for this packed sandwich.
1 large shallot, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 (6-ounce) cans solid white tuna in olive oil, drained and flaked
1. Whisk shallot, oil, parsley, vinegar, and mustard together in medium bowl. Add tuna and toss to coat. Season with pepper to taste.
2. Using your fingers, remove soft interior bread from top and bottom halves of baguette. Discard interior bread.
3. Spread tapenade on baguette bottom. Top with lettuce, tuna, eggs, and radishes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place baguette top over radish layer and press with your hand to flatten. Slice into 4 equal portions and serve at room temperature or cold.
Why This Recipe Works A deliciously golden fried fish sandwich is undoubtedly a summertime staple in New England. When making our own crispy fish sandwich, we were swayed by the style of sandwiches made in our seaside backyard. In New England, you’ll most often get your fish—usually a generous piece of haddock—topped with coleslaw and creamy tartar sauce for the perfect bite of moist, crispy fish; rich, creamy sauce; a fresh, crunchy component; and a bun to soak it all up. To enhance the slaw’s freshness even more, we preferred a vinegar-based dressing to a traditional creamy one for extra acidity to counterbalance the fish, which we fried dunked in a seltzer-based batter. Store-bought coleslaw mix can be substituted for the cabbage, carrot, and parsley in the slaw. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more for this recipe. You can substitute black sea bass, cod, hake, or pollock for the haddock in this recipe.
Fish
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cornstarch
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
¾ cup plain seltzer
2 quarts peanut or vegetable oil for frying
4 (4- to 6-ounce) skinless haddock fillets, 1 inch thick
1. For the fish Whisk flour, cornstarch, salt, and baking powder together in large bowl. Whisk in seltzer until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
2. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Add oil to Dutch oven until it measures about 1½ inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Pat haddock dry with paper towels and transfer to batter, tossing gently to evenly coat. Using fork, remove fish from batter, allowing excess batter to drip back into bowl, and add to hot oil, briefly dragging haddock along surface of oil to prevent sticking before gently dropping into oil. Adjust burner, if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 350 and 375 degrees.
3. Cook, stirring gently to prevent pieces from sticking together, until deep golden brown and crisp, about 4 minutes per side. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer haddock to prepared rack.
4. For the slaw Whisk vinegar, oil, sugar, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add cabbage, carrot, and parsley and toss to combine; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide tartar sauce evenly among bun bottoms, then top with fish and slaw. Cover with bun tops. Serve immediately.
VARIATION
Spicy Crispy Fish Sandwiches
Combine ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 to 2 tablespoons sriracha, ½ teaspoon grated lime zest, and 1 teaspoon lime juice in bowl. Substitute for tartar sauce.
Why This Recipe Works Nothing says Louisiana summer like a fried shrimp po’ boy, with deliciously crispy, golden-brown shrimp nestled into a roll with a fluffy interior and crisp exterior. The key to recreating these sandwiches at home was perfecting the shrimp’s crunchy coating, so we turned to a foolproof three-step process. First, we tossed them in a dry mixture of flour, cornmeal, and Creole seasoning for a subtly spicy kick. Next, we dipped them in beaten eggs with a bit of the dry mixture added. Finally, we again dredged them in the flour mixture. This breading process allowed more batter to stick to the shrimp, maximizing crunchiness. We let the coated shrimp rest in the refrigerator before frying to ensure that the batter didn’t slough off during cooking. Lightly toasting the sub rolls gave them the traditional crunch of New Orleans–style French bread. Use refrigerated prepared horseradish, not the shelf-stable kind, which contains preservatives and additives. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more. Do not refrigerate the breaded shrimp for longer than 30 minutes, or the coating will be too wet.
Rémoulade
⅔ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon hot sauce
¼ teaspoon pepper
Shrimp
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup cornmeal
2 tablespoons Creole seasoning
4 large eggs
1 pound medium-large shrimp (31 to 40 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, divided
2 quarts peanut or vegetable oil
4 (8-inch) Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise and toasted
2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
2 large tomatoes, cored and sliced thin
1 cup dill pickle chips
1. For the rémoulade Whisk all ingredients together in bowl. Set aside.
2. For the shrimp Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Whisk flour, cornmeal, and Creole seasoning together in shallow dish. Whisk eggs and ½ cup flour mixture together in second shallow dish.
3. Place half of shrimp in flour mixture and toss to thoroughly coat. Shake off excess flour mixture, dip shrimp into egg mixture, then return to flour mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Transfer shrimp to prepared wire rack. Repeat with remaining half of shrimp. Refrigerate shrimp for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.
4. Line large plate with triple layer of paper towels. Add oil to Dutch oven until it measures about 1½ inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Carefully add half of shrimp to oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon or spider skimmer, transfer shrimp to prepared plate. Return oil to 375 degrees and repeat with remaining shrimp.
5. Spread rémoulade evenly on both cut sides of each roll. Divide lettuce, tomatoes, pickle chips, and shrimp evenly among rolls. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works A lobster roll is the quintessential New England summer sandwich, but to capture the luxurious, decadent balance of dressing and meat without taking a road trip we knew we needed to let the natural flavor of the lobster shine. For our dressing, we used just 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise and added lemon juice, cayenne, and chives for complementary brightness. To assemble our lobster roll, we mostly adhered to tradition—top-loading supermarket hot dog bun and lots of lobster—but we added a hint of crunch in the form of small amounts of lettuce and celery (a contentious addition).This recipe is best when made with lobster you’ve cooked yourself. Use a very small pinch of cayenne pepper, as it should not make the dressing spicy. We prefer New England–style top-loading hot dog buns, as they provide maximum surface on the sides for toasting. If using other buns, butter, salt, and toast the interior of each bun instead of the exterior.
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons minced celery
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon minced fresh chives
⅛ teaspoon table salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 pound lobster meat, tail meat cut into ½-inch pieces and claw meat cut into 1-inch pieces (see this page)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
6 New England–style hot dog buns
6 Bibb lettuce leaves
1. Whisk mayonnaise, celery, lemon juice, chives, salt, and cayenne together in large bowl. Add lobster and gently toss to combine.
2. Place 12-inch nonstick skillet over low heat. Butter both sides of buns and season lightly with salt to taste. Place buns in skillet, 1 buttered side down; increase heat to medium-low; and cook until crisp and brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook second side until crisp and brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer buns to large platter. Line each bun with 1 lettuce leaf. Spoon lobster salad into buns and serve immediately.
Why This Recipe Works There’s no better way to highlight juicy, ripe tomatoes than in a flavorful, but dead-simple, sandwich. For bold, intense tomato flavor, we marinated them in a mixture of extra-virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, and salt, which enhanced and amplified their bright, complex flavor. We then used some of the leftover tangy, tomato-juice-infused marinade liquid to liven up the mayonnaise. After spreading it on each slice of toast, we topped the zesty mayo with shingled tomato slices and black pepper. Choose tomatoes that measure no more than 2 inches in diameter. You can use any medium-size round, ripe tomatoes (do not use plum tomatoes). The tomatoes may break if you toss them with the marinade in a bowl; combining them in a zipper-lock bag is gentler.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
¾ teaspoon table salt
1 pound mixed ripe tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick
½ cup mayonnaise
8 slices hearty white sandwich bread, toasted
1. Whisk oil, vinegar, and salt together in medium bowl; transfer marinade to 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Add tomatoes to bag, press out air, seal bag, and gently turn to coat tomatoes with marinade. Lay bag flat on counter and let sit for 10 minutes.
2. Transfer tomato slices to now-empty bowl, leaving marinade in bag. Combine 1½ tablespoons marinade with mayonnaise in small bowl. Discard remaining marinade.
3. Place toast on cutting board. Spread 1 tablespoon mayonnaise mixture on 1 side of toast. Shingle tomatoes evenly on 4 slices of toast, covering as much of toast as possible. Season tomatoes with pepper to taste. Top tomatoes with remaining 4 slices of toast, mayonnaise side down. Cut sandwiches in half. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works Avocado toast is the perfect fuss-free summer meal; it’s healthy and delicious, and it’s one of the simplest things to make for a quick breakfast or lunch without heating up the whole house. A quick stint under the broiler rendered our bread perfectly—and evenly—toasted. We took our toast up a notch by whisking together a lemony vinaigrette and mixing it in as we mashed one of the avocados, giving our dish a distinct citrusy punch. Smeared on toasted rustic country bread, topped with sliced avocado, then sprinkled with a little coarse sea salt and red pepper flakes, our version of this dish is spectacularly tasty. Topping it with a fried egg just takes it over the top.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
1. Whisk oil, lemon zest and juice, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper together in small bowl. Add chopped avocado and mash into dressing with fork.
2. Spread mashed avocado mixture evenly on toasts. Arrange avocado slices evenly over top. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper flakes, if using, and serve.
VARIATION
Avocado Toast with Fried Eggs
Cut 2 teaspoons unsalted butter into 4 pieces; keep chilled. Crack 4 eggs into 2 small bowls (2 eggs per bowl) and season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over low heat for 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and heat until oil is shimmering. Add butter and swirl to coat pan. Working quickly, add eggs to pan from opposite sides, cover, and cook for 1 minute. Remove skillet from burner and let sit, covered, for 15 to 45 seconds for runny yolks (white around edge of yolk will be barely opaque), 45 to 60 seconds for soft but set yolks, and about 2 minutes for medium-set yolks. Top avocado toasts with fried eggs and serve.
Israeli Eggplant and Egg Sandwiches
Serves 4
Why This Recipe WorksSabich, a popular Israeli street food, combines creamy fried eggplant, hard-cooked eggs, savory hummus, and crunchy pickles in a soft pita. To create an appealing version that could be made at home, we started with the eggplant. Although it’s traditionally fried, we found that we liked the flavor (and simplicity) of broiled eggplant as much as fried. Salting the eggplant for 30 minutes before broiling helped to eliminate excess moisture and encourage deep, flavorful browning. Chopped dill pickles offered great briny flavor, and cherry tomatoes, red onion, and parsley provided bright, fresh notes. Sabich is often eaten as a sandwich, but we decided to lay the pitas flat and pile everything on top to create a beautiful presentation and make the dish easier to eat. Cutting our hard-cooked eggs into thin slices (as opposed to wedges) worked best, since the flat slices could easily be layered with the other ingredients. Finishing our open-faced sandwiches with a drizzle of our tangy Tahini-Yogurt Sauce brought all the elements together. We prefer to use our homemade Hummus (this page) but you can substitute store-bought if desired. If you can’t find Aleppo pepper, you can substitute ¼ teaspoon paprika and ¼ teaspoon finely chopped red pepper flakes.
1. Spread eggplant on baking sheet lined with paper towels, sprinkle both sides with salt, and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Thoroughly pat eggplant dry with paper towels, arrange on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet in single layer, and lightly brush both sides with 2 tablespoons oil. Broil eggplant until spotty brown, about 5 minutes per side.
3. Combine tomatoes, pickles, onion, parsley, lemon juice, garlic, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Lay each pita on individual plate, spread with ¼ cup hummus, and top evenly with eggplant, tomato salad, and eggs. Drizzle with tahini-yogurt sauce and sprinkle with Aleppo. Serve immediately.
Tahini-Yogurt Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
⅓ cup tahini
⅓ cup plain Greek yogurt
¼ cup water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon table salt
Whisk all ingredients in bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let sit until flavors meld, about 30 minutes. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
Why This Recipe Works With a simple ingredient list that highlights fresh eggplant and tomatoes, melty mozzarella, and flavorful basil, these sandwiches are sure to become a summertime favorite. Pan-frying the eggplant turned it greasy, so we opted to broil it instead. Tomato, mozzarella, and basil are traditional toppings, but since we were already broiling the eggplant, we opted to broil our grape tomatoes as well, along with some garlic, deepening and rounding out their flavors. Once the tomatoes were nicely charred and had split open, we mashed them together with the roasted garlic and some red wine vinegar to make a chunky, bright tomato sauce. We layered the broiled eggplant with the tomato sauce, shredded mozzarella, and chopped fresh basil to make a bold, balanced eggplant panini that’s even better than the classic. To weigh down our panini we found that a common kitchen tool, the Dutch oven, was surprisingly perfect. We like the attractive grill marks that a grill pan gives the panini, but you can substitute a 12-inch nonstick skillet.
1 pound eggplant, sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds
10 ounces grape tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
8 (½-inch-thick) slices crusty bread
6 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded (1½ cups)
½ cup chopped fresh basil
1. Adjust 1 oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and second rack to middle position, and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant, tomatoes, and garlic evenly over baking sheet and drizzle with 3 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Broil until vegetables are browned and tomatoes have split open, 8 to 10 minutes, flipping eggplant once during broiling.
2. Transfer tomatoes to small bowl and mash with fork. Mince roasted garlic and stir into tomatoes. Stir in vinegar, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper.
3. Reduce oven temperature to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in clean rimmed baking sheet. Brush remaining 2 tablespoons oil evenly over 1 side of each slice of bread. Assemble 4 sandwiches by layering ingredients as follows between prepared bread (with oiled sides outside sandwich): half of mozzarella, tomato sauce, eggplant, basil, and remaining mozzarella. Press gently on sandwiches to set.
4. Heat 12-inch nonstick grill pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Place 2 sandwiches in pan, place Dutch oven on top, and cook until bread is golden and crisp on first side, about 4 minutes. Flip sandwiches, replace Dutch oven, and cook until second side is crisp and cheese is melted, about 4 minutes.
5. Transfer sandwiches to prepared wire rack and keep warm in oven. Wipe out grill pan with paper towels and cook remaining 2 sandwiches. Serve.
COOKING PANINI IN A GRILL PAN
Place sandwiches in grill pan, place Dutch oven on top, and cook until bread is golden and crisp on first side, about 4 minutes. Flip sandwiches and cook until second side is crisp and cheese is melted, about 4 minutes.
French Summer Sandwiches with Zucchini and Olive Tapenade
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works Packed with ripe summer zucchini, tender mesclun, and refreshing mint, this quick and easy sandwich is picnic-ready. We tried simply adding the zucchini to the sandwich without cooking it, but no matter how thin we shaved it, it tasted raw, so we decided to roast it for just 15 minutes to get it softened and nicely caramelized. While the zucchini roasted, we made the fastest-ever olive tapenade by pulsing fruity green olives, lemon juice, shallot, garlic, and capers in the food processor. We spread some rich, creamy goat cheese over the baguette pieces, drizzled them with our incredibly flavorful tapenade, and layered in the thin slices of roasted zucchini. Finally, we tossed the mesclun and mint with oil and lemon juice and topped our sandwich with the crisp greens. The end result was a nuanced but simple sandwich celebrating summer vegetables.
2 zucchini, cut in half crosswise, then sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick planks
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
10 pitted green olives
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon lemon juice, divided
1 teaspoon capers, rinsed
1 small garlic clove, minced
1½ ounces (1½ cups) mesclun
⅓ cup minced fresh mint
4 ounces goat cheese, softened
1 (24-inch) baguette, cut crosswise into 4 equal lengths and sliced in half lengthwise
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss zucchini with 2 tablespoons oil, salt, and pepper, then spread in single layer on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until zucchini are spotty brown on both sides, about 15 minutes, flipping halfway through baking.
2. Meanwhile, pulse 2 tablespoons oil, olives, shallot, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, capers, and garlic in food processor until mixture forms slightly chunky paste, about 10 pulses (do not overprocess). Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining 2 teaspoons lemon juice together in medium bowl. Add mesclun and mint and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Spread goat cheese evenly over cut sides of each baguette piece. Assemble 4 sandwiches by layering ingredients as follows between prepared baguette pieces: olive tapenade, zucchini, then mesclun mixture. Press gently on sandwiches to set. Serve at room temperature or cold.
VARIATION
French Summer Sandwiches with Roasted Tomatoes and Olive Tapenade
Substitute 4 plum tomatoes, cored and halved lengthwise, for zucchini and basil for mint.
Farmers’ Market Find Broccoli
Though you’ve likely often found broccoli at the supermarket, you might be surprised to learn that the freshest, most vibrant broccoli can be found at your local farmers’ market. Choose broccoli heads with firm florets that are tightly closed and are dark green or purplish-green. Avoid broccoli heads where the green buds are starting to turn yellow or tiny flowers are emerging; this is a sign it’s past its prime and will be bitter. Broccoli rabe is a sturdy, strongly flavored variety that’s sometimes called rapini or broccoli raab. As with regular broccoli, avoid bunches with yellowing leaves and flowers in favor of dark green foliage and florets. Broccolini is a slender, crunchy variety with a sweeter, milder flavor than broccoli. Unlike with regular broccoli, the tiny yellow flowers that often appear on broccolini are tasty and perfectly edible. Store all of these types of broccoli wrapped in paper towels in a loosely closed plastic produce bag for up to a week.
Philly-Style Broccoli Rabe, Portobello, and Cheese Sandwiches
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Philly’s famous cheesesteak is an undeniable classic, but we wanted to make a vegetable-forward version that was more suited to the summer months without sacrificing on meaty flavor. First we swapped out the steak for hearty, umami-rich portobellos. To give the sandwiches complex and satisfying texture, we added subtly bitter, hearty broccoli rabe. The stovetop provided quick cooking, so we sautéed the broccoli rabe with some garlic and pepper flakes for heat and then tossed it with vinegar before letting it sit while we cooked the mushrooms. To mimic the traditional thinly shaved steak, we cut the mushrooms into thin slices and sautéed them until they were nicely browned and flavorful. Once the mushrooms were cooked, we stirred in the broccoli rabe. To bind it all together, we let slices of American cheese melt into the vegetables to make a rich, cohesive filling that we piled high on toasted sub rolls.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
12 ounces broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
4 (8-inch) Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise and toasted
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Stir in broccoli rabe, water, and salt. Cover and cook until broccoli rabe is bright green and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in vinegar, then transfer to bowl.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms (skillet will be very full), cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid, 6 to 8 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until moisture has evaporated and mushrooms begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
3. Stir broccoli rabe back into skillet and season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat to low and shingle cheese over vegetables. Cook until cheese is melted, about 2 minutes. Fold melted cheese thoroughly into mushroom mixture. Divide mixture evenly among toasted rolls. Serve.
Tofu Banh Mi
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works In Vietnam, banh mi is simply a term for all kinds of bread, but in the United States most people recognize it as a Vietnamese-style sandwich featuring chicken, pork, or tofu and crunchy pickled vegetables. For our own version, we started by making crispy, flavorful tofu. We sliced the tofu into sandwich-size slabs and drained them on paper towels to make it easier to get a crispy crust. Then we dredged the slabs in cornstarch and seared them in a hot skillet until they were nicely browned. For the vegetables, we quick-pickled cucumber slices and shredded carrot in lime juice and fish sauce. Sriracha-spiked mayonnaise gave the sandwich a spicy kick, while a sprinkling of fresh cilantro added an authentic garnish.
14 ounces firm tofu, sliced crosswise into ½-inch-thick slabs
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup cornstarch
2 carrots, peeled and shredded
½ cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin
1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice
1 tablespoon fish sauce
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon sriracha
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 (8-inch) Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise and toasted
⅓ cup fresh cilantro leaves
1. Spread tofu over paper towel–lined baking sheet, let drain for 20 minutes, then gently press dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spread cornstarch in shallow dish. Dredge tofu in cornstarch and transfer to plate.
2. Meanwhile, combine carrots, cucumber, lime juice, and fish sauce in bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Whisk mayonnaise, sriracha, and lime zest together in separate bowl.
3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook until both sides are crisp and browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate.
4. Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly over cut sides of each roll. Assemble 4 sandwiches by layering ingredients as follows between prepared rolls: tofu, pickled vegetables (leaving liquid in bowl), and cilantro. Press gently on sandwiches to set. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Chickpea Salad Sandwiches
Serves 6FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Chicken, egg, and tuna salads are classics, but using protein-packed chickpeas as the salad base makes for a surprisingly delicious, and conveniently vegan- friendly, sandwich that requires zero cooking. When we simply mashed our chickpeas and stirred our ingredients together, however, our salads turned out dry, crumbly, and pasty. We wanted the richness and almost saucy texture of a traditional deli salad. Vegan mayonnaise helped the cause, lending a rich smoothness, but too much of it masked the savory chickpea flavor. Since we were already opening cans of chickpeas, why not make a hummus-style puree for creaminess? We buzzed a portion of the chickpeas with vegan mayo, water, and lemon juice in the food processor for the perfect creamy binder. Then we added the remaining chickpeas to the mixture and briefly pulsed them to give us just the right textural contrast. To round things out, we turned to classic flavors: Chopped celery provided crunch, dill pickle brought a salty brininess, and scallions and herbs finished the salad with bright, fresh flavor. Served on toasted bread, this salad makes a creamy, luscious sandwich sure to satisfy any lunchtime craving. This salad is also delicious served in lettuce wraps. We strongly prefer our favorite vegan mayonnaise, Just Mayo.
2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed, divided
½ cup vegan mayonnaise
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon table salt
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
⅓ cup dill pickles, finely chopped
2 scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, dill, or tarragon
12 slices hearty multigrain bread, toasted
1. Process ¾ cup chickpeas, mayonnaise, water, lemon juice, and salt in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
2. Add remaining chickpeas to food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped with some larger pieces remaining, about 4 pulses.
3. Combine chickpea mixture, celery, pickles, scallions, and parsley in large bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread chickpea salad evenly over 6 bread slices. Top with remaining bread slices and serve.
Crispy Falafel Pitas
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works To bring crispy, well-spiced falafel from Mediterranean street carts to the home kitchen, we turned to convenient canned chickpeas and the food processor instead of traditional dried chickpeas, which need to be soaked before starting the falafel. Pita bread plays a double role in this recipe; not only does it serve as the portable, pocket- shaped sandwich base for the finished falafel, but we also ground up some extra pita and used it as a starchy binder to hold the falafel patties together and help prevent the canned chickpeas from making the falafel too mushy. Bright, summery tomatoes and a cool, creamy yogurt sauce added a burst of freshness to the crispy fried falafel patties.
2½ (8-inch) pita breads
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, divided
1 large egg
1½ teaspoons ground cumin, divided
1¼ teaspoons table salt, divided
1 teaspoon pepper, divided
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped (1 cup)
½ cup vegetable oil
1. Tear ½ pita into small pieces and process in food processor until finely ground, about 15 seconds. Add chickpeas, 2 tablespoons parsley, egg, 1 teaspoon cumin, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and pulse until chickpeas are coarsely chopped and mixture is cohesive, about 10 pulses. Divide mixture into 16 patties, about 2 inches in diameter.
2. Whisk yogurt, lemon juice, remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, remaining ½ teaspoon cumin, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Fry patties until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Cut remaining 2 pitas in half and stuff each pocket with ¼ cup tomatoes, 4 falafel, and ¼ cup yogurt sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Why This Recipe Works Much of the appeal of tacos for a weeknight dinner is their essential simplicity. For easy chicken tacos, we found that boneless, skinless breasts were a convenient place to start, and poaching proved to be the easiest way to cook them while imbuing them with flavor. To build our poaching liquid, we started by sautéing chipotle chile in adobo and garlic for a smoky, savory flavor base. Sautéing our aromatic ingredients in butter instead of oil added richness to the lean breast meat. We then added orange juice for citrusy freshness, cilantro for a pleasant herbal note, and Worcestershire sauce for savory depth. Once the chicken was done cooking, our poaching liquid pulled double duty: We reduced it to a sauce. A bit of yellow mustard thickened the sauce and provided a sharp counterpoint to the sweet orange juice. Finally, we shredded and sauced the chicken. Warm tortillas, a squeeze of lime, and a few basic toppings completed our tacos. Serve with Mexican Crema (this page), sour cream, and one of our homemade taco toppings (this page).
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and chipotle and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in ½ cup cilantro, orange juice, and Worcestershire and bring to simmer. Nestle chicken into sauce. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through cooking. Transfer chicken to plate and cover.
2. Increase heat to medium-high and cook liquid left in skillet until reduced to ¼ cup, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in mustard. Using 2 forks, shred chicken into bite-size pieces and return to skillet. Add remaining ¼ cup cilantro and toss until well combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with tortillas and lime wedges.
Why This Recipe Works For weeknight tacos we could make entirely on the grill on a hot summer evening, we paired chicken with a charred tomatillo salsa and perfectly toasted tortillas. Since it would be topped with other flavorful elements, we found that our chicken needed only a brief stint in a garlic-lime marinade. A bit of salt and sugar in our marinade kept the chicken moist as it grilled and rounded out its flavor. To complement the smoky, charred chicken, we grilled some of the salsa ingredients; sliced onion, jalapeño, and half the tomatillos cooked at the same rate as the chicken. We pulsed our grilled vegetables with additional raw tomatillos and added cilantro, lime juice, and garlic for fresh bite. As a final touch, we grilled our tortillas briefly to warm and lightly char them.
¼ cup vegetable oil, divided
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes), divided, plus lime wedges for serving
1 pound tomatillos, husks and stems removed, rinsed well and dried, divided
12 (6-inch) corn tortillas
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Whisk 3 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon lime juice, water, half of garlic, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1½ teaspoons salt, and pepper together in medium bowl. Add chicken, cover, and refrigerate, turning occasionally, for 30 minutes. Brush onion, jalapeño, and half of tomatillos with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt to taste. Halve remaining tomatillos; set aside.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken and oiled vegetables on grill. Cook (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until chicken registers 160 degrees and vegetables are lightly charred and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer chicken and vegetables to cutting board and tent with aluminum foil.
4. Working in batches, grill tortillas, turning as needed, until warm and soft, about 30 seconds; wrap tightly in foil to keep soft.
5. Chop grilled vegetables, then pulse with cilantro, remaining tomatillos, remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice, remaining garlic, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining pinch sugar in food processor until slightly chunky, 16 to 18 pulses. Slice chicken thin on bias and serve with tortillas, tomatillo salsa, and lime wedges.
Why This Recipe Works In this popular northern Mexican taco, rich, smoky beef is perfectly complemented by sweet-hot poblano chiles and piquant onions. We wanted an authentic version that could be made on a home grill. First, we tackled the chiles. When roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into strips, poblano chiles are called rajas, and they’re used not only in tacos but also on tostadas or grilled seafood. We grilled the poblanos over a very hot fire; this left the skins charred and blistered while the flesh remained relatively unscathed. Putting the peppers in a covered bowl when they came off the grill made the bitter skins easy to peel off later. The onions needed only a quick stint over the fire to develop good grill marks. We found that marinating our skirt steak was unnecessary; instead, while the cooked steak rested we covered it with a flavorful puree of onion, lime juice, garlic, cumin, and salt. If you can’t find skirt steak, substitute flank steak, although the meat will be a bit more chewy. Serve with chopped cilantro and Mexican Crema (this page) or sour cream.
4 onions (3 sliced crosswise into ½-inch-thick rounds, 1 chopped)
6 tablespoons lime juice (3 limes), plus lime wedges for serving
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons table salt, divided
1½ pounds poblano chiles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed
½ teaspoon pepper
18 (6-inch) corn tortillas
1. Process chopped onion, lime juice, garlic, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in food processor until smooth. Brush onion rounds and poblanos with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pat steak dry and sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and pepper.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) off.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place poblanos on hotter side of grill and onion rounds on cooler side of grill. Grill (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until poblanos are blistered and blackened and onions are softened and golden, 6 to 12 minutes. Transfer onions to platter and cover to keep warm. Transfer peppers to bowl, cover, and let steam while cooking steak and tortillas.
4. Place steak on hotter side of grill. Grill (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until well browned on both sides and meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 8 minutes. Transfer steak to 13 by 9-inch pan and poke all over with fork. Pour pureed onion mixture over top, cover, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
5. Working in batches, grill tortillas, turning as needed, until warm and soft, about 30 seconds; wrap tightly in aluminum foil to keep soft.
6. Peel poblanos, then slice thin. Separate onions into rings and chop, then toss with poblanos. Remove steak from marinade, slice into 4- to 6-inch lengths, then slice thin against grain. Serve with warm tortillas, poblano-onion mixture, and lime wedges.
Why This Recipe Works It’s impossible to hear “Baja” without picturing warm, sandy beaches and clear blue skies, where battered and fried fish tacos are a common taco stand offering. These popular tacos are filled with tender white fish encased in a crisp coating with toppings such as crunchy shredded cabbage and cooling crema. An ultrathin beer batter made with flour, cornstarch, and baking powder proved to be ideal for getting a light, crispy coating on the fish. Light-bodied American lagers, such as Budweiser, work best here. Cut the fish on a slight bias if your fillets aren’t quite 4 inches wide; you should end up with about 24 pieces of fish. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more.
2 pounds skinless white fish fillets such as cod, haddock, or halibut, cut crosswise into 4 by 1-inch strips
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Pat fish dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add beer and whisk until smooth. Add fish to batter and toss to coat evenly.
2. Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about ¾ inch deep and heat over medium-high heat to 350 degrees.
3. Remove 5 or 6 pieces of fish from batter, allowing excess to drip back into bowl, and add to hot oil, briefly dragging fish along surface of oil to prevent sticking. Adjust burner, if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 325 and 350 degrees. Fry fish, stirring gently to prevent pieces from sticking together and turning as needed, until golden brown and crisp, about 8 minutes.
4. Transfer fish to prepared wire rack and place in oven to keep warm. Return oil to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining fish, working with 5 or 6 pieces at a time. Serve with warm tortillas, cilantro, crema, pickled onion and cabbage, and lime wedges.
Taco Sauces and Toppings
When topped well, tacos are the ultimate flavor and texture combination: tangy, spicy, creamy, and crunchy. These simple, but complexly flavorful, recipes make it easier than ever to customize your taco toppings.
Mexican Crema
Makes about 1¼ cups
The texture should be similar to that of crème fraîche.
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons milk
Whisk all ingredients together in bowl. (Mexican crema can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
Avocado Crema
Makes about ½ cup
You can also serve with nachos or your favorite chili.
½ avocado, pitted and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon plain low-fat yogurt
Process all ingredients in food processor until completely smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (Crema can be refrigerated with plastic wrap pressed flush to surface for up to 2 days.)
Quick Pickled Shallot and Radishes
Makes about 1 cup
5 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
1 shallot, sliced thin
¼ cup lime juice (2 limes)
1 teaspoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon table salt
Combine all ingredients in bowl. (Pickled shallot and radishes can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 1 week.)
Quick Pickled Red Onions
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup red wine vinegar
⅓ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
1 red onion, halved and sliced thin through root end
Bring vinegar, sugar, and salt to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved. Off heat, stir in onion, cover, and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. (Pickled onions can be refrigerated in airtight container for up to 1 week.)
Pickled Onion and Cabbage
Makes about 4 cups
1 small red onion, halved and sliced thin
2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for pickling liquid
½ teaspoon pepper
3 cups shredded green cabbage
Combine onion and jalapeños in medium bowl. Bring vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in small saucepan. Pour vinegar mixture over onion mixture and let sit for at least 30 minutes, or refrigerate for up to 2 days. Transfer ¼ cup pickling liquid to second medium bowl; add cabbage, salt, and pepper; and toss to combine.
Why This Recipe Works In the Yucatán Peninsula, far from the battered-and-fried-fish taco stands of Baja, another style of fish taco is popular: grilled fish tacos. Traditionally, a whole fish is split in half lengthwise, bathed in a chile-citrus marinade, and grilled. We wanted grilled fish tacos featuring a similarly bold flavor profile, but a simpler approach—no dealing with whole, skin-on fish. Although most recipes use whole snapper or grouper, we found that swordfish was easier to find, stood up well to flipping on the grill, and picked up plenty of flavorful char before the interior cooked through. We created a flavorful paste from ancho and chipotle chile powders, oregano, and ground coriander, which we bloomed in oil to bring out their flavors. Tomato paste provided a savory-sweet punch. To replicate the flavor of traditional sour oranges, we used a combination of lime and orange juices. A fresh pineapple salsa was the perfect accompaniment to our spicy, earthy fish. Halibut, mahi-mahi, red snapper, and striped bass are all suitable substitutes for the swordfish. The recipe for the pineapple salsa makes more than is needed for the tacos; leftovers can be refrigerated for up to two days. Serve with shredded lettuce and diced avocado.
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
2 teaspoons chipotle chile powder
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon table salt
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup orange juice
6 tablespoons lime juice (3 limes), divided, plus lime wedges for serving
2 pounds skinless swordfish steaks, 1 inch thick, cut lengthwise into 1-inch thick strips
1 pineapple, peeled, quartered lengthwise, cored, and each quarter halved lengthwise
1 jalapeño chile
18 (6-inch) corn tortillas
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, plus extra for serving
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil, ancho chile powder, and chipotle chile powder in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and some bubbles form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, coriander, and salt and continue to cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato paste and, using spatula, mash tomato paste with spice mixture until combined, about 20 seconds. Stir in orange juice and 2 tablespoons lime juice. Cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly mixed and reduced slightly, about 2 minutes. Transfer chile mixture to large bowl and let cool for 15 minutes.
2. Add swordfish to chile mixture and stir gently to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Brush pineapple and jalapeño with remaining 1 tablespoon oil.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
4. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Place fish, pineapple, and jalapeño on grill. Cover and cook until fish, pineapple, and jalapeño have begun to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Using thin spatula, turn fish, pineapple, and jalapeño. Cover and cook until pineapple and jalapeño are well browned and swordfish registers 140 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer to platter and cover with aluminum foil.
5. Working in batches, grill tortillas, turning as needed, until warm and soft, about 30 seconds; wrap tightly in foil to keep soft.
6. Chop pineapple and jalapeño fine and combine with bell pepper, cilantro, and remaining ¼ cup lime juice in bowl. Season with salt to taste. Using 2 forks, pull fish apart into large flakes and serve with pineapple salsa, tortillas, and lime wedges.
Why This Recipe Works Like many fruits and vegetables, fresh, flavorful wild salmon is in season during the summer months. Rich wild salmon is both satisfying and quick-cooking, and paired with a flavorful spice rub and fresh, crunchy slaw, these tacos are sure to be the hit of taco night. For a slaw that would stand up to the salmon, we turned to dark, leafy collards. Though cooked collards are common, when thinly sliced, they conveniently require no precooking. Radishes, jícama, and red onion rounded out the slaw, and avocado crema lent creaminess. Skin-on salmon fillets hold together better during cooking, and the skin helps keep the fish moist. If your salmon is less than 1 inch thick, start checking for doneness early. If using wild-caught salmon, cook until thickest part of the fillet registers 120 degrees. You can substitute 2 cups of thinly sliced cabbage for the collards if desired.
¼ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
4 ounces collard greens, stemmed and sliced thin (2 cups)
4 ounces jícama, peeled and cut into 2-inch-long matchsticks
4 radishes, trimmed and cut into 1-inch-long matchsticks
½ small red onion, halved and sliced thin
¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves
1½ teaspoons chili powder
¼ teaspoon pepper
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets, 1 inch thick
1. Whisk lime zest and juice and ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add collards, jícama, radishes, onion, and cilantro and toss to combine.
2. Combine chili powder, pepper, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in small bowl. Pat salmon dry with paper towels and sprinkle evenly with spice mixture. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Cook salmon, skin side up, until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until salmon is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer salmon to plate and let cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Using 2 forks, flake fish into 2-inch pieces, discarding skin.
3. Divide fish, collard slaw, and avocado crema evenly among tortillas and drizzle with hot sauce to taste. Serve with lime wedges.
Soft Corn Tacos with Sweet Potatoes, Poblano, and Corn
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works In-season, late-summer corn has an unbeatable lightly sweet flavor that pairs perfectly with sweet potatoes and vegetal, mildly hot poblano peppers to create a vegetarian taco that’s hearty and satisfying. To balance their sweet flavors, we seasoned the vegetables with plenty of garlic, cumin, coriander, and oregano. Then we spread all of the vegetables out on baking sheets and roasted them to get crunchy, caramelized exteriors and tender interiors. Finally, we piled the warm vegetables in soft tacos and topped them with crumbled queso fresco and a rich Mexican crema. Crumbled feta can be substituted for the queso fresco.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
4 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Whisk oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, oregano, salt, and pepper together in large bowl. Add potatoes, poblanos, corn, and onion to bowl and toss to coat.
2. Spread vegetable mixture in even layer over 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake vegetables until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes, stirring vegetables and switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking.
3. Return vegetables to now-empty large bowl, add cilantro, and toss to combine. Divide vegetables evenly among tortillas and top with queso fresco and crema. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
FOUR WAYS TO WARM TORTILLAS
Warming tortillas not only makes them more pliable but can also add flavorful toasty char, depending on the method. Wrap the tortillas in foil or clean dish towels to keep them warm until serving.
Gas Flame Using tongs, place tortilla directly over medium flame of gas burner until lightly charred, about 30 seconds per side.
Skillet Toast tortilla in dry nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until softened and spotty brown, 20 to 30 seconds per side.
Microwave Wrap up to 6 tortillas in damp, clean dish towel and microwave until warm, 30 to 45 seconds.
Grill Working in batches, grill tortillas, turning as needed, until warm and soft, about 30 seconds.
