Photos (clockwise from top left): Paprika and Lime-Rubbed Chicken with Grilled Vegetable Succotash; Grilled Paella; Grilled Porterhouse or T-Bone Steaks; Grilled Caesar Salad
For grilled burgers and tacos, see Burgers, Sandwiches, and Tacos (this page). For more grilled salads, see Dinner-Size Salads (this page)
■ FAST (30 minutes or less total time) ■ MAKE AHEAD
Using a Charcoal or Gas Grill
Grilling food turns it into something special and there’s no better time to grill than in the summer. Each recipe in this chapter contains specific instructions for cooking on either a charcoal or a gas grill. Follow the fire setup instructions carefully to ensure recipe success.
USE A CHIMNEY STARTER
We strongly recommend using a chimney starter for charcoal fires. (Lighter fluid imparts an off-flavor to grilled foods.) This simple device gets all of the charcoal ready at once. Fill the bottom of the chimney starter with crumpled newspaper, set it on the charcoal grate, and fill the top with charcoal as directed. A large starter holds about 6 quarts of charcoal.
GET THE COALS HOT
Allow the charcoal to burn until the briquettes on top are partially covered with a thin layer of gray ash. The ash is a sign that the coals are fully lit and hot and are ready to be turned out into the grill. Don’t pour out the coals prematurely; you will be left with unlit coals at the bottom of the pile that may never ignite, as well as a cooler fire.
ARRANGE THE COALS CAREFULLY
Once the coals are covered with gray ash, empty them evenly onto the charcoal grate or as instructed in the recipe. A single-level fire is a common fire setup that delivers a uniform level of heat across the entire cooking surface.
Using a Disposable Pan
Some fire setups call for using a disposable aluminum pan. Piling coals on either side of the pan creates a cool area over the pan for foods such as bone-in chicken. Alternatively, corralling the coals in the pan concentrates the heat to create an intense fire ideal for quicker-cooking foods such as burgers and scallops.
MODIFIED TWO-LEVEL (HALF-GRILL) CHARCOAL FIRE
A half-grill fire has two cooking zones for foods that require longer cooking: You can brown the food on the hotter side and finish it on the cooler side’s indirect heat. To set up this fire, distribute ash-covered coals over half of the grill, piling them in an even layer. Leave the other half free of coals.
CLEAN AND OIL THE COOKING GRATE
Properly heating and cleaning your grill are important steps to successful grilling. To ensure that food will release with ease, heat the grate before scraping it clean with a grill brush. For further insurance against sticking, dip a wad of paper towels into vegetable oil and run it over the cleaned grate several times.
Grilled Chicken Kebabs with Garlic and Herb Marinade
Serves 4MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Chicken kebabs are a great way to take boneless, skinless chicken breasts up a notch, but the lean meat requires some help to keep from becoming dried out over a hot grill. To counter this, we started with a simple olive oil marinade. Brining meat helps it retain moisture, but we worried that a true brine would make the small pieces of chicken too salty. Instead, we simply added a teaspoon of salt to the marinade, along with a mix of herbs and garlic—you can tweak the herbs based on what you like best, or try one of our spiced-up variations. Because there is no acid in the marinade and thus no danger of breaking down the texture of the meat, the chicken can be soaked for up to 24 hours before cooking. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup chopped fresh chives or minced fresh basil, parsley, tarragon, oregano, cilantro, or mint; or 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme or rosemary
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 large red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces, 3 layers thick
1. Whisk oil, herbs, garlic, salt, and pepper together in small bowl. Combine marinade and chicken in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag; seal bag and refrigerate, turning once or twice, for at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Remove chicken from marinade. Thread each of four 12-inch metal skewers with 2 pieces bell pepper, 1 section onion, 2 pieces chicken, and 1 section onion. Repeat twice more, ending with 2 additional pieces bell pepper.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place kebabs on grill. Cook (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until vegetables and chicken are charred around edges and chicken is cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer kebabs to serving platter and serve.
VARIATIONS
Grilled Chicken Kebabs with Middle Eastern Marinade
Substitute ¼ cup minced fresh mint or parsley (alone or in combination) for herbs and add ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground allspice, and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper to marinade.
Grilled Chicken Kebabs with Mediterranean Marinade
Substitute following mixture for herb marinade: Combine ½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 minced garlic cloves, 2 teaspoons dried thyme, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon table salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper. In step 2, marinate chicken for 3 to 6 hours. Whisk ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1 minced garlic clove, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, and 3 tablespoons lemon juice together in bowl; set aside. Skewer chicken and grill as directed. Brush cooked kebabs with lemon dressing before serving.
Why This Recipe WorksSouvlaki is a Greek grilled specialty consisting of chunks of marinated meat threaded onto skewers, sometimes with vegetables such as green pepper and onion. Chicken souvlaki is almost always made with boneless, skinless breasts, which have a marked tendency to dry out when grilled. To help prevent this, we swapped traditional overnight marinating for a quick brine while the grill heated. We then tossed the chicken with a flavorful mixture of lemon, olive oil, herbs, and honey right before grilling. To prevent the end pieces from overcooking, we protected them by threading pepper and onion pieces on the ends of the skewers. Once the chicken was cooked, we tossed it with the reserved marinade to ensure that it was brightly flavored. We like the chicken in a wrap, but you may skip the pita and serve the chicken, vegetables, and tzatziki with rice. If using kosher chicken, do not brine in step 1. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
2 tablespoons table salt, for brining
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 lemons)
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon pepper
1 green bell pepper, quartered, stemmed, seeded, and each quarter cut into 4 pieces
1 small red onion, halved through root end, each half cut into 4 chunks
1. Dissolve 2 tablespoons salt in 1 quart cold water in large container. Submerge chicken in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Combine oil, parsley, lemon zest and juice, honey, oregano, and pepper in medium bowl. Reserve ¼ cup oil mixture in large bowl.
2. Remove chicken from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Toss chicken with remaining oil mixture. Thread 4 pieces of bell pepper, concave side up, onto one 12-inch metal skewer. Thread one-quarter of chicken onto skewer. Thread 2 pieces of onion onto skewer and place skewer on plate. Repeat skewering remaining chicken and vegetables on 3 more skewers. Lightly moisten 2 pita breads with water. Sandwich unmoistened pitas between moistened pitas and wrap stack tightly in lightly greased heavy-duty aluminum foil.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place skewers on hotter side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until chicken and vegetables are well browned and chicken registers 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. Using tongs, slide chicken and vegetables off skewers into bowl of reserved oil mixture. Toss gently, breaking up onion pieces. Cover loosely with foil and let sit while heating pitas.
5. Place packet of pitas on cooler side of grill and flip occasionally until heated through, about 5 minutes. Lay each warm pita on 12-inch square of foil. Spread each pita with 2 tablespoons tzatziki. Distribute chicken and vegetables evenly among pitas, placing in middle of each pita. Roll into cylindrical shape and serve.
Grilled Lemon-Parsley Chicken Breasts
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Chicken breasts that come off the grill juicy and flavorful are a crowd-pleasing main dish perfect for pairing with colorful vegetables or a refreshing salad for a simple summertime meal. We first marinated the chicken breasts in a simple combination of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, salt, pepper, and a bit of sugar, which helped keep them from drying out while cooking. We kept the marinade’s acidity low by reducing the lemon juice to avoid mushy chicken but added the bright lemon flavor back in by drizzling the cooked chicken with a complementary vinaigrette before serving. Cooked over a hot, single-level fire, the outer layers of the chicken breasts burned before the inside was cooked through, so we ended up using a two-level fire. We cooked the chicken, covered, over the cooler side of the grill until it was almost done and then finished it with a quick sear for perfectly cooked breasts. The flavors of the citrus-herb marinade are easy to switch up—we provide two other flavor options. The chicken should be marinated for no less than 30 minutes and no more than 1 hour. Serve with a simply prepared vegetable or use in sandwiches or salad.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1¼ teaspoons sugar, divided
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided
¾ teaspoon pepper, divided
2 tablespoons water
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed
1. Whisk 3 tablespoons oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, parsley, ¼ teaspoon sugar, mustard, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl and set aside for serving.
2. Whisk water, garlic, remaining 3 tablespoons oil, remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon sugar, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Place marinade and chicken in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and toss to coat; press out as much air as possible and seal bag. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour, flipping bag every 15 minutes.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Remove chicken from bag, allowing excess marinade to drip off. Place chicken on cooler side of grill, smooth side down, with thicker sides facing coals and flames. Cover and cook until bottom of chicken just begins to develop light grill marks and is no longer translucent, 6 to 9 minutes.
5. Flip chicken and rotate so that thinner sides face coals and flames. Cover and continue to cook until chicken is opaque and firm to touch and registers 140 degrees, 6 to 9 minutes.
6. Move chicken to hotter side of grill and cook until dark grill marks appear on both sides and chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 6 minutes.
7. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice each breast on bias into ¼-inch-thick slices and transfer to individual plates. Drizzle with reserved vinaigrette and serve.
VARIATIONS
Grilled Chipotle-Lime Chicken Breasts
Substitute lime juice for lemon juice and use extra teaspoon lime juice in reserved vinaigrette in step 1. Substitute 1 teaspoon minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce for mustard and cilantro for parsley.
Grilled Orange-Tarragon Chicken Breasts
Substitute orange juice for lemon juice and tarragon for parsley. Add ¼ teaspoon grated orange zest to reserved vinaigrette in step 1.
CREATING A SINGLE-LEVEL OR OTHER GAS FIRE
To create a single-level fire on a gas grill, turn all the burners to the heat setting specified in the recipe after preheating the grill. To create other fires, adjust the primary burner as directed in the recipe and turn off or adjust the other burner(s).
Why This Recipe Works Smoky bone-in chicken with subtle charred flavor is a must-have in your summer dinner rotation. But flare-ups can turn chicken into a charred mess if you’re not paying attention. We wanted to avoid this pitfall by starting the chicken over a relatively cool area of the grill. This allowed the fat in the chicken skin to render slowly, thereby avoiding flare-ups and encouraging ultracrisp skin. Finishing it over the hotter side of the grill yielded beautifully well-browned chicken. In addition to the quality of the finished product, we loved this approach because it was effectively hands-off: We didn’t have to constantly move and monitor the chicken pieces. This recipe works with breasts, legs, thighs, or a combination of parts. For extra flavor, rub the chicken with Cajun or Tex-Mex Spice Rubs before cooking, or brush with barbecue sauce during the final few minutes of grilling.
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely and place disposable pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into 2 even piles on either side of disposable pan. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-low.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on grill (over disposable pan if using charcoal). Cover and cook until skin is crisp and golden, about 20 minutes.
4. Slide chicken to hotter sides of grill if using charcoal, or turn all burners to medium-high if using gas. Cook (covered if using gas), turning as needed, until well browned on both sides and breasts register 160 degrees and drumsticks/thighs register 175 degrees, 5 to 15 minutes.
5. Transfer chicken to serving platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
VARIATIONS
Grilled Bone-In Chicken with Cajun Spice Rub
Makes about 1 cup
½ cup paprika
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons ground celery seeds
2 teaspoons pepper
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
Combine all ingredients in bowl. Substitute ⅓ cup spice rub for salt and pepper. Remaining spice rub can be stored in airtight container for up to 3 months.
Grilled Bone-In Chicken with Tex-Mex Spice Rub
Makes about 1 cup
¼ cup ground cumin
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons ground coriander
2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 tablespoons garlic powder
4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Combine all ingredients in bowl. Substitute ⅓ cup spice rub for salt and pepper. Remaining spice rub can be stored in airtight container for up to 3 months.
Teriyaki Chicken with Grilled Bok Choy and Pineapple
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Teriyaki-sauced grilled chicken and grilled fresh produce make an ideal summer meal. A quick homemade teriyaki sauce beats out the bottled stuff. We brushed our sauce on bone-in chicken thighs toward the end of grilling so it would not burn. For the vegetable component, we chose baby bok choy, which takes on complexity when grilled and balanced the savory chicken. The caramelized sweetness of grilled pineapple rounded out our plate. You can buy and use fresh peeled and cored pineapple in this recipe if you prefer; canned pineapple rings will also work in a pinch.
⅓ cup soy sauce
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon cornstarch
4 heads baby bok choy (4 ounces each), halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons table salt, divided
¾ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 pineapple (about 4 pounds), peeled, cored, and sliced lengthwise into 1-inch-thick planks
8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs
2 scallions, sliced thin on bias
1. Whisk soy sauce, sugar, mirin, ginger, and cornstarch together in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes.
2. Place bok choy in bowl, cover, and microwave until beginning to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain any liquid from bowl and toss bok choy with oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
3. Brush pineapple planks with 2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce. Trim chicken, pat dry with paper towels, and sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter full of charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over half of grill, then pour remaining coals over other half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook until chicken registers 175 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes. Halfway through cooking rearrange so all pieces get equal exposure to heat source.
6. While chicken cooks on cooler side, place pineapple and bok choy (in batches, if necessary), on hotter side of grill and cook, covered, until lightly charred and tender, 2 to 5 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking; transfer to serving platter as they finish cooking and tent with aluminum foil.
7. Transfer chicken pieces, skin side up, to hotter side of grill. Brush chicken all over with ¼ cup teriyaki sauce and continue to grill, uncovered and flipping often, until sauce begins to caramelize, about 5 minutes; transfer to serving platter, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Brush remaining sauce over chicken and pineapple, sprinkle with scallions, and serve with bok choy.
Why This Recipe Works Classic barbecued chicken is one of America’s favorite summer foods. But despite its popularity, barbecued chicken recipes cause backyard grillers plenty of headaches. We set out to develop a recipe for barbecued chicken with perfect, evenly cooked meat, golden-brown skin, and intense, multidimensional barbecue flavor. Most recipes call for searing chicken quickly over high heat, but we found that starting barbecued chicken over low heat slowly rendered the fat without the danger of flare-ups and gave us evenly cooked meat all the way through. Our homemade sauce has the perfect balance of sweetness and smokiness from brewed coffee, vinegar, and molasses. We created a complex layer of barbecue flavor by applying the sauce in coats and turning the chicken as it cooked over moderate heat. The sauce turned out thick and caramelized, and it perfectly glazed the chicken. Using homemade barbecue sauce makes a big difference, but you can substitute 3 cups of store-bought sauce. Don’t try to grill more than 10 pieces of chicken at a time; you won’t be able to line them up as directed in step 6. You can use a mix of chicken breasts, thighs, and drumsticks, making sure they add up to 10 pieces.
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
1. For the barbecue sauce Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Whisk in broth, vinegar, coffee, molasses, tomato paste, ketchup, mustard, hot sauce, and garlic powder.
2. Bring sauce to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened and measures 4 cups, about 1 hour. Off heat, stir in liquid smoke. Let sauce cool completely. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve 2 cups barbecue sauce for cooking; set aside remaining sauce for serving.
3. For the chicken Combine salt, pepper, and cayenne in bowl. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and rub with spices.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely and place disposable pan on 1 side of grill. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over other side of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook until chicken begins to brown, 30 to 35 minutes.
6. Slide chicken into single line between hotter and cooler sides of grill. Cook uncovered, flipping chicken and brushing every 5 minutes with some of sauce reserved for cooking, until sticky, about 20 minutes.
7. Slide chicken to hotter side of grill and cook, uncovered, flipping and brushing with remaining sauce for cooking, until well glazed, breasts register 160 degrees, and drumsticks/thighs register 175 degrees, about 5 minutes. Transfer chicken to serving platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with remaining sauce.
Paprika-and-Lime-Rubbed Chicken with Grilled Vegetable Succotash
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works All of the elements of this brightly flavored meal of zesty chicken and fresh summer succotash come together quickly on the grill. We made a spice rub of smoked paprika, lime zest, sugar, cumin, salt, and pepper and used it to coat the chicken parts. Cooking the chicken on the cooler side of the grill helped us avoid flare-ups while still giving it great grilled flavor and char. To bring in even more grilled flavor, we grilled the vegetables for our succotash, too, placing corn cobs, onion rounds, and skewered cherry tomatoes on the hotter side of the grill while the chicken cooked on the cooler side. We chopped the grilled onions and cut the corn from the cobs after cooking and tossed the vegetables with a simple dressing, including more lime zest and paprika to reinforce the flavors of the spice-rubbed chicken, plus some cilantro for fresh herbal notes. To round out our grilled succotash, we added canned butter beans, which were superquick to prepare and added a creamy consistency and pleasant mild flavor. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
12 ounces cherry tomatoes
3 ears corn, husks and silk removed
1 red onion, sliced crosswise into ½-inch-thick rounds
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
¾ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon smoked hot paprika, divided
4 teaspoons grated lime zest, divided, plus 2 tablespoons juice (2 limes), and lime wedges for serving
1. Thread tomatoes onto four 12-inch metal skewers. Brush corn, onion, and tomato skewers with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
2. Combine 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 tablespoon lime zest, sugar, cumin, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Pat chicken dry with paper towels, transfer to bowl with spice mixture, and stir to coat evenly.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter full of charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over half of grill, then pour remaining coals over other half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook until skin is well browned and slightly charred and breasts register 160 degrees and drumsticks/thighs register 175 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes, flipping as needed and rearranging so all pieces get equal exposure to heat source. Transfer chicken pieces to serving platter as they finish cooking, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest.
5. While chicken cooks on cooler side, place corn, onion rounds, and tomato skewers on hotter side of grill. Cook tomatoes, covered, turning as needed, until skins begin to blister, about 2 minutes; transfer to serving platter. Continue to cook corn and onion, covered, turning occasionally, until lightly charred on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer corn and onion to cutting board as they finish cooking and cover with foil.
6. Chop grilled onions and cut corn kernels from cobs. Whisk remaining 1 teaspoon lime zest, lime juice, 2 tablespoons cilantro, garlic, remaining ½ teaspoon paprika, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil together in large bowl. Add beans, tomatoes, chopped onion, and corn to bowl and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro over chicken. Serve with succotash and lime wedges.
Indian-Spiced Chicken with Radicchio and Grilled Naan
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works We love Indian takeout, especially delectable tandoori chicken, but in the summer we also like to take advantage of the weather and make our own dinner on the grill. We skipped the takeout and instead made an Indian-style chicken dinner at home with a grilled vegetable side and a cooling yogurt sauce. Garam masala was convenient to employ and made for deeply flavorful chicken. We coated the chicken parts in a mixture of the garam masala and some salt before grilling. To round out the meal, we grilled some beautiful red radicchio, which made a surprisingly great pairing for the Indian-spiced chicken; its crispy edges and bitter notes were an excellent complement to the richness of the chicken. To further balance out the flavors of the meal, we made a simple, bright sauce of plain yogurt, fresh lime juice, and chopped fresh cilantro for some color and kick. Finally, we completed our Indian meal with quickly grilled store-bought naan.
1 head radicchio (10 ounces), cut into quarters, leaving core intact
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
⅛ teaspoon pepper
2 naan breads, halved
1. Stir yogurt, lime juice, 1 tablespoon cilantro, and ½ teaspoon salt in small bowl until smooth; set aside sauce for serving. Mix garam masala and ½ teaspoon salt together in large bowl.
2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels, transfer to bowl with spice mixture, and stir to coat evenly. Brush radicchio with oil and sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter full of charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over half of grill, then pour remaining coals over other half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, skin side down, on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook until skin is well browned and slightly charred and breasts register 160 degrees and drumsticks/thighs register 175 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes, flipping as needed and rearranging so all pieces get equal exposure to heat source. Transfer chicken pieces to serving platter as they finish cooking. Tent with aluminum foil and let rest.
5. While chicken cooks on cooler side, place radicchio on hotter side of grill. Cook, flipping as needed, until softened and lightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer radicchio to serving platter and tent with foil. While chicken rests, grill naan on hotter side of grill, uncovered, until warmed through, 1 minute per side. Sprinkle chicken with remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro and serve with reserved sauce and naan.
Why This Recipe Works Lemony chicken is always a winning idea, and butterflying is a great way to prepare whole chickens for grilling to achieve succulent meat and irresistibly crisped skin. For perfectly grilled butterflied lemon chicken, we banked all the coals on one side of the grill, placed the chicken opposite the coals, and set the lid on the grill. The relatively gentle heat rendered the fat slowly and resulted in a moister bird. Placing the chicken skin side down reduced the cooking time and maximized the amount of fat rendered. A final sear directly over the dying coals at the end of cooking crisped and browned the skin nicely. To finish the chicken with intense lemon flavor, we caramelized lemon halves over the grill and made a sauce from their juice.
2 (4-pound) whole chickens, giblets discarded
5 lemons, divided
2½ teaspoons table salt, divided
1¾ teaspoons pepper, divided
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon sugar
⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Working with 1 chicken at a time, place chicken breast side down on cutting board. Using kitchen shears, cut through bones on either side of backbone; discard backbone. Trim chicken of excess fat and skin. Flip chicken over and press on breastbone to flatten. Cover chicken with plastic wrap and pound breasts with meat pounder to even thickness.
2. Grate 2 teaspoons zest from 1 lemon (halve and reserve lemon) and mix with 1½ teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat chickens dry with paper towels and, using your fingers or handle of wooden spoon, gently loosen skin covering breasts and thighs. Rub zest mixture under skin, then sprinkle exterior of chickens with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Tuck wingtips behind breasts and transfer chickens to prepared rack. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely and place disposable pan on 1 side of grill with long side of pan facing center of grill. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over other half of grill (opposite disposable pan). Scatter 20 unlit coals on top of lit coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 350 to 375 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Halve remaining 4 lemons and place, along with reserved lemon halves, cut side down on hotter side of grill. Place chickens skin side down on cooler side of grill, with legs pointing toward fire; cover, placing lid vent over chickens on charcoal grill.
5. Grill lemons until deep brown and caramelized, 5 to 8 minutes; transfer to bowl. Continue to grill chickens, covered, until breasts register 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 40 to 50 minutes. Slide chickens to hotter side of grill and cook, uncovered, until skin is well browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer chickens to carving board skin side up, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 15 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, squeeze ⅓ cup juice from grilled lemons into bowl. (Cut any unsqueezed lemons into wedges for serving.) Using flat side of knife, mash garlic and remaining ½ teaspoon salt into paste and add to bowl with lemon juice. Whisk in parsley, mustard, sugar, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper. Slowly whisk in oil until emulsified.
7. Carve chickens, transfer to serving platter, and pour ⅓ cup vinaigrette over chicken. Serve, passing remaining vinaigrette and grilled lemon wedges separately.
BUTTERFLYING A CHICKEN
1. Cut through bones on either side of backbone, remove backbone, and trim any excess fat and skin around neck.
2. Flip chicken over and use heel of your hand to flatten breastbone.
3. Cover chicken with plastic wrap and pound breast to be same thickness as legs and thighs.
Grill-Roasted Beer Can Chicken
Serves 3 to 4
Why This Recipe Works Beer can chicken is the real deal: The bird is rubbed with spices, an open, partially filled beer can is inserted into its cavity, and the bird is grill-roasted upright. The beer turns to steam as the chicken roasts, which makes the meat remarkably juicy and rich-textured. And the dry heat crisps the skin and renders the fat away. It’s a near-perfect way to cook a chicken. Banking the coals on either side of the grill allowed for a cooler spot in the middle where the chicken could cook through evenly and gently. A chimney starter two-thirds full provided just enough coals to maintain the grill at the proper temperature for the entire cooking time. A few wood chips contributed a pleasing smoky flavor that didn’t overwhelm the chicken. A simple but flavorful spice blend provided a rub that was rich and a little spicy, the perfect complement to the smokiness. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet. If you prefer, use lemonade instead of beer; fill an empty 12-ounce soda or beer can with 10 ounces (1¼ cups) of lemonade and proceed as directed.
Spice Rub
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon table salt
1½ teaspoons pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne
Chicken
1 (12-ounce) can beer
2 bay leaves
1 (3½- to 4-pound) whole chicken, giblets discarded
2 cups wood chips, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
1. For the spice rub Combine all ingredients in small bowl.
2. For the chicken Open beer can and pour out (or drink) about ¼ cup. With church key can opener, punch 2 more large holes in top of can (for total of 3 holes). Crumble bay leaves into beer.
3. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. Rub chicken evenly, inside and out, with spice rub, gently loosening skin over breast and rubbing spice rub directly onto meat. Using skewer, poke skin all over. Slide chicken over beer can so that drumsticks reach down to bottom of can and chicken stands upright; set aside at room temperature.
4. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
5A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway and place disposable pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter two-thirds filled with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into 2 even piles on either side of disposable pan. Place wood chip packet on 1 pile of coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
5B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. (Adjust burners as needed to maintain grill temperature of 325 degrees.)
6. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken (with can) in center of grill (over roasting pan if using charcoal), using drumsticks to help steady bird. Cover (position lid vent over chicken if using charcoal) and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 1 to 1½ hours.
7. Using large wad of paper towels, carefully transfer chicken (with can) to tray, making sure to keep can upright. Tent with foil and let rest for 15 minutes. Carefully lift chicken off can and onto carving board. Discard remaining beer and can. Carve chicken and serve.
SETTING UP BEER CAN CHICKEN
With legs pointing down, slide chicken over open beer can. Two legs and beer can form tripod that steadies chicken on grill.
Why This Recipe Works A simple grilled steak can be the focal point for countless summer dinners paired with any number of side dishes or salads, so a foolproof recipe is an essential part of any home griller’s arsenal. Turning out perfectly grilled steaks with flavorful, charred exteriors and rosy, medium-rare interiors required a few tricks. The first trick was to buy decent steaks—we preferred strip steaks, rib-eye steaks, filets mignons, sirloin steaks, or flank steaks. Second, to bring out its flavor, we seasoned the meat with salt and let it sit before cooking. Third, we brushed the steaks with oil in order to get a good sear; the oil was especially helpful for thin or lean steaks such as flank and filet mignon. Then, to ensure that these steaks came off the grill with charred exteriors and perfectly tender interiors, we built a fire with two heat zones; we started the steaks over the hotter side and moved them to the cooler side to finish cooking through. We found that letting the steaks rest before serving is key—if sliced into right off the grill, the meat will exude its flavorful juices and be dry. Try to buy steaks of even thickness so they cook at the same rate. If cooking filet mignon, look for steaks that are a bit thicker, about 2 inches. We prefer these steaks cooked to medium-rare but if you prefer them more or less done, see our guidelines on this page.
1. Sprinkle steaks evenly with salt and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Pat steaks dry with paper towels, brush lightly with oil, and sprinkle with pepper.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over half of grill, then pour remaining coals over other half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place steaks on hotter side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas), turning steaks as needed, until nicely charred on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes. Slide steaks to cooler side of grill and continue to cook until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 8 minutes.
4. Transfer steaks to serving platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
DONENESS TEMPERATURES FOR MEAT, POULTRY, AND FISH
Do not guess at doneness; use a thermometer. We list below the final cooking temperatures of meat, poultry, and fish. Note that the temperature of beef and pork (but not poultry or fish) will continue to rise after cooking (this is known as carryover cooking). For this reason, we list both the cooking and serving temperatures.
INGREDIENT
DONENESS TEMPERATURE
Beef and Lamb
Chops, Steaks, and Roasts
Rare
115 to 120 degrees
(120 to 125 degrees after resting)
Medium-Rare
120 to 125 degrees
(125 to 130 degrees after resting)
Medium
130 to 135 degrees
(135 to 140 degrees after resting)
Medium-Well
140 to 145 degrees
(145 to 150 degrees after resting)
Well-Done
150 to 155 degrees
(155 to 160 degrees after resting)
Pork
Chops and Tenderloin
Medium-Well
145 degrees
(150 degrees after resting)
Well-Done
160 degrees
Loin Roasts
Medium-Well
140 degrees
(145 degrees after resting)
Well-Done
160 degrees
Poultry
Breasts
160 degrees
Thighs and drumsticks
175 degrees
Fish
Rare
110 degrees (for tuna only)
Medium-Rare
125 degrees (for tuna or salmon)
Medium
135 to 140 degrees (for white-fleshed fish)
Grilled Porterhouse or T-Bone Steaks
Serves 4 to 6
Why This Recipe Works Porterhouse and T-bone steaks are really two steaks in one—a tender New York strip steak on one side of the bone and a buttery, quicker-cooking tenderloin on the other. For our on-the-grill version, we knew that the challenge would be cooking both parts to the perfect doneness at the same time. As we do with boneless steaks, we made a two-level fire for our porterhouse steaks. We first seared the steaks over the hotter side and then slid them to the cooler side to cook through. We positioned the steaks so the tenderloin always faced the cooler side of the grill—this prevented it from overcooking. And when moving the steaks to the cooler side, we made sure the big bone along the bottom of each steak faced the hotter side of the grill, to protect the narrow top of the steak from drying out. Salting the meat and letting it sit for 1 hour before grilling boosted its flavor from crust to bone. Be sure to buy steaks that are at least 1 inch thick. We prefer these steaks cooked to medium-rare but if you prefer them more or less done, see our guidelines at left.
2 (1¾-pound) porterhouse or T-bone steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick, trimmed
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1. Sprinkle each steak evenly with ½ teaspoon salt and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and sprinkle with pepper.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to low.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place steaks on hotter side of grill with tenderloin sides facing cooler side of grill. Cook (covered if using gas) until dark crust forms, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip and turn steaks so that tenderloin sides are still facing cooler side of grill. Cook until dark brown crust forms on second side, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Slide steaks to cooler side of grill and turn so that bone sides are facing hotter side of grill. Cover grill and cook, turning steaks as needed, until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 2 to 4 minutes.
5. Transfer steaks to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut strip and tenderloin pieces off bones, then slice each piece ¼ inch thick. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works You can’t argue with the appeal of a summer dinner consisting of chunks of beef with a perfect char and juicy interior, all thoroughly seasoned and paired with browned, tender grilled vegetables. For the meat, we avoided precut chunks from the supermarket and instead made our own. We chose well-marbled steak tips for their beefy flavor and tender texture and cut the meat into generous 2-inch cubes. For the marinade, we combined salt for moisture, oil for flavor, and sugar for browning. For depth of flavor, we added tomato paste, seasonings and herbs, and beef broth. Just an hour of marinating gave the meat all the seasoning it needed. We chose three grill favorites for the vegetables: bell pepper, red onion, and zucchini. Grilling the beef and vegetables on separate skewers over our tweaked version of a two-level fire allowed the vegetables to cook at a lower temperature while the beef seared over the hotter center area so both parts came out perfectly cooked within a few minutes of each other. The flavors of the marinade are easy to change up for a wealth of variations; try our spicy red curry or savory North African–inspired mixes. Sirloin steak tips are often sold as flap meat. They can be packaged as whole steaks, cubes, or strips. We prefer to buy whole steaks so we can cut our own steak tips. If you have long, thin pieces of meat, roll or fold them into approximate 2-inch cubes. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe. We prefer this steak cooked to medium-rare but if you prefer it more or less done, see our guidelines on this page.
Marinade
1 onion, chopped
⅓ cup beef broth
⅓ cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons tomato paste
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons table salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon pepper
Beef and Vegetables
2 pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
1 large zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced 1 inch thick
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch pieces
1 large red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces, 3 layers thick
1. For the marinade Process all ingredients in blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. Measure out ¾ cup marinade and set aside for vegetables.
2. For the beef and vegetables Combine remaining marinade and beef in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and toss to coat; press out as much air as possible and seal bag. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, flipping bag every 30 minutes. Gently combine zucchini, bell pepper, and onion with reserved marinade in bowl. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. Remove beef from bag, pat dry with paper towels, and thread tightly onto two 12-inch metal skewers. Thread vegetables onto two 12-inch metal skewers, in alternating pattern of zucchini, bell pepper, and onion.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over center of grill, leaving 2-inch gap between grill wall and charcoal. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium-low.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place beef skewers on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal or over hotter side if using gas). Place vegetable skewers on cooler part(s) of grill (near edge of coals if using charcoal). Cook (covered if using gas), turning skewers every 3 to 4 minutes, until beef is well browned and registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 12 to 16 minutes.
6. Transfer beef skewers to serving platter and tent with aluminum foil. Continue cooking vegetable skewers until tender and lightly charred, about 5 minutes. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Grilled Beef Kebabs with North African Marinade
Substitute 20 cilantro sprigs, 2 teaspoons paprika, 1½ teaspoons ground cumin, and ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper for rosemary and lemon zest.
Grilled Beef Kebabs with Red Curry Marinade
Substitute ½ cup packed fresh basil leaves, 3 tablespoons red curry paste, 2 teaspoons grated lime zest, and 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger for lemon zest and rosemary in marinade.
Grilled Flank Steak with Vegetables and Salsa Verde
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Rich and beefy flank steak is thin, flat, and quick-cooking, making it ideal for grilling. We paired our flank steak with a pungent, easy-to-make Italian salsa verde chock-full of straight-from-the-garden flavor. The sauce elevated the simple char-grilled steak and added a welcome freshness. For the vegetables, we chose a combination of fresh zucchini and earthy eggplant, which perfectly complemented the Italian flavors of the sauce. These hearty summer vegetables were also a perfect match for the high heat of the grill. Slicing flank steak against the grain before serving (that is, perpendicular to the orientation of the muscle fibers) makes this relatively tough cut much more tender. We prefer our steaks cooked to medium-rare but if you prefer them more or less done, see our guidelines on this page.
2 zucchini, sliced lengthwise into ¾-inch-thick planks
1 pound eggplant, sliced lengthwise into ¾-inch-thick planks
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1⅛ teaspoons table salt, divided
1 teaspoon pepper, divided
1 (1½-pound) flank steak, trimmed
1½ cups fresh parsley leaves
½ cup fresh mint leaves
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
1 tablespoon water
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 garlic clove, minced
1. Brush zucchini and eggplant with 1 tablespoon oil and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
2. Pat steak dry with paper towels, and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and remaining ¾ teaspoon pepper.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place steak and vegetables on grill. Cover and cook, flipping steak and turning vegetables as needed, until steak is well browned and registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare) and vegetables are slightly charred and tender, 7 to 12 minutes. Transfer steak and vegetables to carving board as they finish cooking, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest.
5. While steak rests, pulse parsley, mint, vinegar, capers, water, anchovies, garlic, remaining ¼ cup oil, and remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor until finely chopped, about 15 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer to bowl.
6. Cut zucchini and eggplant into 2-inch pieces. Arrange vegetables on serving platter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice steak thin against grain and arrange on serving platter with vegetables. Drizzle steak with ¼ cup salsa verde. Serve, passing remaining salsa verde separately.
Why This Recipe Works A mojo marinade is a complexly flavored, citrusy, garlicky concoction from Cuba that’s great for jazzing up grilled meat. For a mojo-marinated steak recipe, we chose the outside skirt steak, which has ample surface area for soaking up the flavors of the marinade. Soy sauce in the marinade seasoned the meat, and its glutamates enhanced the meat’s beefiness. We rubbed a thin coating of baking soda over the steaks before grilling them over high heat to guarantee great browning. To emphasize the mojo flavor, we boiled the marinade to make it food-safe and turned it into a sauce that we drizzled over the steaks. Skirt steaks come from two different muscles and are sometimes labeled as inside skirt steak or outside skirt steak. The more desirable outside skirt steak measures 3 to 4 inches wide and ½ to 1 inch thick. Avoid the inside skirt steak, which typically measures 5 to 7 inches wide and ¼ to ½ inch thick, as it is very chewy. Skirt steak is most tender when cooked to medium (130 to 135 degrees).
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 limes), divided
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon grated orange zest plus ½ cup juice
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed and cut with grain into 6- to 8-inch-long steaks
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon baking soda
1. Combine garlic, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons lime juice, cumin, oregano, salt, orange juice, and pepper flakes in 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Place steaks in dish. Flip steaks to coat both sides with marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour, flipping steaks halfway through refrigerating.
2. Remove steaks from marinade and transfer marinade to small saucepan. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Combine 1 tablespoon oil and baking soda in small bowl. Rub oil mixture evenly onto both sides of each steak.
3. Bring marinade to boil over high heat and boil for 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl and stir in lime zest, orange zest, remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Set aside sauce.
4A. For a charcoal grill About 25 minutes before grilling, open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn off 1 burner (if using grill with more than 2 burners, turn off burner farthest from primary burner) and leave other burner(s) on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Cook steaks on hotter side of grill until well browned and meat registers 130 to 135 (for medium), 2 to 4 minutes per side. (Move steaks to cooler side of grill before taking temperature to prevent them from overcooking.) Transfer steaks to cutting board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut steaks on bias against grain into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange slices on serving platter, drizzle with 2 tablespoons sauce, and serve, passing extra sauce separately.
Why This Recipe Works Smoking steaks can lend them complexity, but most recipes overwhelm the meat’s delicate flavor with too much smoke. We found that the key was using a small amount of wood chips and cooking the steaks quickly over direct heat so that they were just kissed with smoke. Since wood chips pack differently, we weighed the chips for more control over the smoke quantity. Salting the steaks for an hour before cooking ensured that the seasoning penetrated below the meat’s surface, and coating them with an herb-spice rub lent an extra layer of fresh summer flavor that complemented the smoke. We also grilled lemons to serve with the steaks for a hit of brightness. You can substitute blade steaks for the flat-iron steaks, if desired. We like both cuts cooked to medium (130 to 135 degrees). We like hickory chips in this recipe, but other kinds of wood chips will work. Gas grills are not as efficient at smoking meat as charcoal grills, so we recommend using 1½ cups of wood chips if using a gas grill. Wood chunks are not recommended for this recipe.
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
¾ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 (6- to 8-ounce) flat-iron steaks, ¾ to 1 inch thick, trimmed
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1–1½ cups wood chips
Vegetable oil spray
2 lemons, quartered lengthwise
1. Grind thyme, rosemary, fennel seeds, peppercorns, and pepper flakes in spice grinder or with mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. Transfer to small bowl. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Rub steaks evenly on both sides with salt and place on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. (After 30 minutes, prepare grill.)
2. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap wood chips (1 cup if using charcoal; 1½ cups if using gas) in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Sprinkle half of herb rub evenly over 1 side of steaks and press to adhere. Lightly spray herb-rubbed side of steaks with oil spray, about 3 seconds. Flip steaks and repeat process of sprinkling and pressing steaks with remaining herb rub and coating with oil spray on second side.
5. Place lemons and steaks on hotter side of grill, cover (position lid vent over steaks if using charcoal), and cook until lemons and steaks are well browned on both sides and meat registers 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 4 to 6 minutes per side. (If steaks are fully charred before reaching desired temperature, move to cooler side of grill, cover, and continue to cook.) Transfer lemons and steaks to clean wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice steaks thin against grain and serve, passing lemons separately.
MAKING A FOIL PACKET FOR WOOD CHIPS
1. Soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes; spread drained chips in center of 15 by 12-inch piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Fold to seal edges, then cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet to allow smoke to escape.
2. Place aluminum foil packet of chips on lit coals of charcoal grill or over primary burner on gas grill.
Why This Recipe Works We turned an inexpensive eye round into a tender roast on the grill. To tenderize the meat, we used a ketchup-salt-herb rub. Then we slow-cooked the roast over indirect heat with a foil shield around the meat. Its shape helped it to cook evenly. If using charcoal, you will need to light two fires: the first to slow-smoke the meat, and the second to sear it after a rest. If using a gas grill, simply turn it off between uses. To use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute one medium wood chunk, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet. For medium roast beef, cook it to 130 to 135 degrees. You don’t need to rest the meat again after step 5; it may be served immediately.
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 teaspoons table salt
2 teaspoons pepper
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon dried rosemary
1 (4-pound) boneless eye-round roast, trimmed
1 cup wood chips
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1. Combine ketchup, salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, and rosemary in bowl. Rub ketchup mixture all over roast, then wrap roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter half filled with charcoal briquettes (3 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into steeply banked pile against side of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 325 degrees.)
3. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Unwrap roast. Make two ½-inch folds on long side of 18-inch length of foil to form reinforced edge. Place foil in center of cooking grate, with reinforced edge over hotter side of grill. Place roast on cooler side of grill so that it covers one-third of foil. Lift and bend edges of foil to shield roast, tucking in edges. Cook, covered, until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 1½ to 1¾ hours. Remove roast from grill, transfer to prepared wire rack, and tent with foil. Let roast rest for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into pile over spent coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush roast all over with oil. Grill (directly over coals if using charcoal; covered if using gas), turning frequently, until charred on all sides, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer meat to carving board, slice thin, and serve.
Why This Recipe Works Real burnt ends are all about moist meat and charred bark, but most pit masters use fatty point-cut brisket. To make the leaner flat-cut brisket work, we cut it into strips and brined it for maximum moisture and flavor. Three hours of smoke on the grill—with a water pan for more moisture—followed by a few hours in a low oven ensured tender brisket with plenty of char. We cut the meat into cubes before tossing it with our homemade sauce. Look for a brisket with a significant fat cap. This recipe takes about 8 hours to prepare. The meat can be brined ahead of time, transferred to a zipper-lock bag, and refrigerated for up to a day. If you don’t have ½ cup of juices from the rested brisket, supplement with beef broth. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute three medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packets.
Brisket and Rub
2 cups kosher salt, for brining
½ cup granulated sugar, for brining
1 (5- to 6-pound) beef brisket, flat cut, untrimmed
¼ cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons pepper
1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 cups wood chips
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal) or 2 (8½ by 6-inch) disposable aluminum pans (if using gas)
Barbecue Sauce
¾ cup ketchup
¼ cup packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons granulated garlic
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. For the brisket and rub Dissolve 2 cups salt and ½ cup granulated sugar in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Slice brisket with grain into 1½-inch-thick strips. Add brisket strips to brine, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours. Remove brisket from brine and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Combine brown sugar, pepper, and 1 tablespoon salt in bowl. Season brisket all over with rub. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using 2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap wood chips in two 8 by 4½-inch foil packets. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packets.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packets.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway and place disposable pan filled with 2 quarts water on one side of grill, with long side of pan facing center of grill. Arrange 3 quarts unlit charcoal briquettes on opposite side of grill and place 1 wood chip packet on coals. Light large chimney starter half filled with charcoal briquettes (3 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over unlit coals and wood chip packet. Place remaining wood chip packet on lit coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Add ½ cup ice cubes to 1 wood chip packet. Remove cooking grate and place both wood chip packets directly on primary burner; place disposable pans each filled with 2 cups water directly on secondary burner(s). Set grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 275 to 300 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange brisket on cooler side of grill as far from heat source as possible. Cover (positioning lid vent over brisket for charcoal) and cook without opening for 3 hours.
5. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Remove brisket from grill and transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Cover sheet tightly with foil. Roast until fork slips easily in and out of meat and meat registers 210 degrees, about 2 hours. Remove from oven, leave covered, and let rest for 1 hour. Remove foil, transfer brisket to carving board, and pour accumulated juices into fat separator.
6. For the barbecue sauce Combine ketchup, sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire, granulated garlic, cayenne, and ½ cup defatted brisket juices in medium saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat and cook until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
7. Cut brisket strips crosswise into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Combine brisket pieces and barbecue sauce in large bowl and toss to combine. Serve.
CUTTING BRISKET INTO STRIPS
Slice flat-cut brisket into 1½-inch strips to create more surface area to facilitate brining, browning, and smoke absorption during cooking.
Texas Barbecue Brisket
Serves 12 to 15MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Authentic Texas-style smoked brisket—with a tender, juicy interior encased in a dark, peppery bark—is an irresistible dish worth firing up the grill for. We started with a 10- to 12-pound whole brisket (both the point and flat cuts). Seasoning the brisket overnight with salt and pepper enhanced the flavor of the meat without masking any of its beefiness. To avoid drying out the meat as it cooked, we used a grill setup called a charcoal snake. This C-shaped array of smoldering briquettes provided low, slow, indirect heat to the center of the grill for upwards of 6 hours, so we needed to refuel only once during the exceptionally long cooking time. Cooking the brisket fat side down gave it a protective barrier against the direct heat of the fire. And wrapping the brisket in aluminum foil toward the end of its cooking time and letting it rest in a cooler for 2 hours before serving helped keep it ultramoist and juicy. The brisket must be seasoned at least 12 hours before cooking. We call for a whole beef brisket here, with both the flat and point cuts intact; you may need to special-order this cut.
1 (10- to 12-pound) whole beef brisket, untrimmed
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup pepper
5 (3-inch) wood chunks
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan
1. With brisket positioned point side up, use sharp knife to trim fat cap to ½- to ¼-inch thickness. Remove excess fat from deep pocket where flat and point are attached. Trim and discard short edge of flat if less than 1 inch thick. Flip brisket and remove any large deposits of fat from underside.
2. Combine salt and pepper in bowl. Place brisket on rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle all over with salt mixture. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.
3. Open bottom vent completely. Set up charcoal snake: Arrange 58 briquettes, 2 briquettes wide, around perimeter of grill, overlapping slightly so briquettes are touching, leaving 8-inch gap between ends of snake. Place second layer of 58 briquettes, also 2 briquettes wide, on top of first. (Completed snake should be 2 briquettes wide by 2 briquettes high.)
4. Starting 4 inches from 1 end of snake, evenly space wood chunks on top of snake. Place disposable pan in center of grill. Fill disposable pan with 6 cups water. Light chimney starter filled with 10 briquettes (pile briquettes on 1 side of chimney). When coals are partially covered with ash, pour over 1 end of snake. (Make sure lit coals touch only 1 end of snake.)
5. Set cooking grate in place. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place brisket, fat side down, directly over water pan, with point end facing gap in snake. Insert temperature probe into side of upper third of point. Cover grill, open lid vent completely, and position lid vent over gap in snake. Cook, undisturbed and without lifting lid, until meat registers 170 degrees, 4 to 5 hours.
6. Place 2 large sheets of aluminum foil on rimmed baking sheet. Remove temperature probe from brisket. Using oven mitts, lift brisket and transfer to center of foil, fat side down. Wrap brisket tightly with first layer of foil, minimizing air pockets between foil and brisket. Rotate brisket 90 degrees and wrap with second layer of foil. (Use additional foil, if necessary, to completely wrap brisket.) Make small mark on foil with marker to keep track of fat/point side. Foil wrap should be airtight.
7. Remove cooking grate. Starting at still-unlit end of snake, pour 3 quarts unlit briquettes about halfway around perimeter of grill over gap and spent coals. Replace cooking grate. Return foil-wrapped brisket to grill over water pan, fat side down, with point end facing where gap in snake used to be. Reinsert temperature probe into point. Cover grill and continue to cook until meat registers 205 degrees, 1 to 2 hours.
8. Remove temperature probe. Transfer foil-wrapped brisket to cooler, point side up. Close cooler and let rest for at least 2 hours or up to 3 hours. Transfer brisket to carving board, unwrap, and position fat side up. Slice flat against grain ¼ inch thick, stopping once you reach base of point. Rotate point 90 degrees and slice point against grain (perpendicular to first cut) ⅜ inch thick. Serve.
BUILDING A CHARCOAL SNAKE
Count out 2 piles of 58 briquettes. Arrange 1 pile, in C shape 2 briquettes wide, around perimeter of cooking grate. Arrange second pile on top of first layer. Evenly space wood chunks on top of second layer.
Grilled Pork Cutlets and Zucchini with Feta and Mint Compound Butter
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works Compound butters, which are merely softened butter with flavorings whisked in, needn’t be reserved for meals cooked indoors. They are easy to prepare and can offer a welcome boost of flavor to a wide range of grilled dishes. We made an herbaceous compound butter loaded with chopped fresh mint, floral orange zest (which provided a subtle sweetness) and crumbles of briny feta cheese. We topped lean grilled pork cutlets and spears of grilled zucchini with our butter, which melted on the warm pork and zucchini and turned into a sauce. Packaged pork loin cutlets are convenient, but we often find them to be inconsistent in size and thickness. Instead, we made our own cutlets by cutting pork tenderloin into pieces and pounding them into ¼-inch-thick cutlets to ensure even cooking.
2 (12- to 16-ounce) pork tenderloins, trimmed, each cut into 4 equal pieces and pounded ¼-inch thick
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon pepper, divided
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (¼ cup)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
4 small zucchini (6 ounces each), halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Let sit for 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine butter, feta, mint, orange zest, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl; set aside. Brush zucchini with oil and sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and remaining ⅛ teaspoon pepper.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill pork, uncovered, until lightly charred and cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to serving platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest while cooking zucchini. Grill zucchini, uncovered, until tender, about 3 minutes per side. Top pork and zucchini with compound butter. Serve.
Why This Recipe Works For a fresher take on pork with prunes, we paired quick-grilling pork chops with fresh plums—one of late summer’s finest fruits. We first rubbed the halved and pitted plums with some sugar to promote caramelization and browning on the grill. Then we sprinkled the pork chops with a savory-sweet spice mixture of coriander, ginger, salt, and pepper, and a bit of sugar to play off the sweetness of the plums. The pork chops cooked quickly, needing only 2 to 3 minutes on each side to become nicely browned. After grilling the chops, we popped the plums halves onto the grill and quickly cooked them until slightly brown and caramelized. They emerged juicy with concentrated sweetness, making the perfect accompaniment to our tender pork chops.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 plums, halved and pitted
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, divided
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon pepper
4 (6-ounce) bone-in pork rib or center-cut chops, ½ inch thick, trimmed
3 ounces (3 cups) baby arugula
1. Whisk oil and lemon juice together in medium bowl; set aside dressing. Rub cut sides of plums with 1 tablespoon sugar. Combine coriander, salt, ginger, pepper, and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in small bowl. Pat pork dry with paper towels and sprinkle all over with spice mixture.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill pork until browned and meat registers 140 degrees, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to serving platter, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, grill plums until caramelized and tender, about 3 minutes per side.
4. Add plums and arugula to bowl with dressing and toss to combine. Transfer to serving platter with pork and serve.
Grilled Pork Tenderloin and Summer Squash with Chimichurri
Serves 4FAST
Why This Recipe Works Chimichurri is a supremely fresh-tasting sauce made from chopped herbs, minced garlic, olive oil, and some vinegar—it’s perfect for turning simple grilled meat and vegetables into something more special. To put a summery spin on pork tenderloin, we made a verdant chimichurri using garden-fresh parsley and cilantro and grilled the pork to add smoky flavor. After cooking the pork, we put some yellow summer squash, cut into long planks, on the grill and cooked them until nicely charred. Turning the grilled pork and vegetables into a lively dinner was as simple as topping both the meat and the squash with our bright chimichurri. You can use fresh mint in place of the cilantro in the chimichurri sauce.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
¾ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon pepper, divided
½ teaspoon dried oregano
2 (1-pound) pork tenderloins, trimmed and pounded ½ inch thick
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
4 yellow summer squash, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick planks
1. Combine ¼ cup oil, parsley, cilantro, vinegar, garlic, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and oregano in bowl; set aside for serving. Sprinkle pork with sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Brush squash with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and remaining ⅛ teaspoon pepper.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill pork until lightly browned and registers 140 degrees, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer pork to carving board, tent with foil, and let rest while grilling squash.
4. Grill squash until charred and tender, 3 to 5 minutes per side; transfer to serving platter. Slice pork on bias ½ inch thick and transfer to platter with squash. Top with chimichurri and serve.
REMOVING PORK SILVERSKIN
Silverskin is a swath of connective tissue located between the meat and the fat that covers its surface. To remove silverskin, simply slip a knife under it, tilt the blade slightly upward, and use a gentle back-and-forth motion.
Why This Recipe Works The biggest challenge when grilling a bulky cut of meat like a pork rib roast is getting the interior cooked to the proper temperature without charring the exterior. We wanted a tender, juicy grilled roast with a thick mahogany crust and plenty of deep, rich flavor. After testing three possible cuts from the loin, we determined that we liked the center-cut rib roast for its flavor and simplicity. Because the meat is a single muscle attached along one side to the bones, there is no need to tie the roast for a tidy presentation. We figured that with such a large roast, using a two-level fire would be essential. But we were surprised to discover that we could cook the roast on the cooler side for the duration. After an hour a mahogany crust developed—no high-temperature sear needed. We found it important to position the roast away—but not too far away—from the coals or flames with the bones facing away from the fire. Letting the roast rest for a full 30 minutes after it finished on the grill allowed the meat to reabsorb some of the juices lost during cooking. For easier carving, ask the butcher to remove the tip of the chine bone and to cut the remainder of the chine bone between each rib. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute one medium wood chunk, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet.
1 (4- to 5-pound) center-cut bone-in pork rib roast, chine bone removed, fat trimmed to ¼ inch
4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup wood chips
1½ teaspoons pepper
1. Pat roast dry with paper towels. Lightly score fat cap in 1-inch crosshatch pattern, being careful not to cut into meat. Sprinkle roast with salt. Wrap roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into steeply banked pile against side of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed during cooking to maintain grill temperature of 325 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Unwrap roast and season with pepper. Place roast on grate with meat near, but not over, coals and flames and bones facing away from coals and flames. Cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal) and cook until meat registers 140 degrees, 1¼ to 1½ hours.
5. Transfer roast to carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 30 minutes. Carve into thick slices by cutting between ribs. Serve.
VARIATION
Grill-Roasted Bone-In Pork Rib Roast with Orange Salsa with Cuban Flavors
Makes about 2½ cups
To make this salsa spicier, reserve and add the chile seeds.
½ teaspoon grated orange zest, plus 5 oranges peeled and segmented, each segment quartered crosswise
½ cup finely chopped red onion
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons packed brown sugar
1½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar
1½ teaspoons minced fresh oregano
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Combine all ingredients in bowl. Serve with pork roast.
Why This Recipe Works Barbecued pulled pork is essential summer cookout fare, but most recipes demand the attention of the cook for 8 hours or more. We wanted to find a way to make moist, fork-tender pulled pork without the marathon cooking time and constant attention to the grill. For the seasoning, we found that keeping it simple produced great results. A blend of spices—paprika, chili powder, and cumin, along with some salt, sugar, and two peppers—provided plenty of complexity and bold flavor. Simply massaging the rub into the meat was straightforward and effective. Placing the roast in a disposable roasting pan on the grill helped protect it from the heat so there was no risk of scorching, while wood chips provided plenty of smoky flavor. We then finished the pork in the oven at a relatively low temperature. This method produced almost the same results as the traditional barbecue, but in considerably less time and with much less effort. Resting the pork for an hour inside a paper grocery sack allowed time for the flavorful juices to be reabsorbed. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Preparing pulled pork requires little effort but lots of time. Plan on 10 hours from start to finish. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute four medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packets. To complement the pulled pork, you can choose between Eastern North Carolina Barbecue Sauce, Western South Carolina Barbecue Sauce, and Mid-South Carolina Mustard Sauce. Serve on plain white bread or warmed rolls with dill pickle chips and coleslaw.
Dry Rub
¼ cup paprika
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons table salt
1 tablespoon pepper
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Pork
1 (6- to 8-pound) bone-in pork butt roast, trimmed
4 cups wood chips
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan
1 brown paper grocery bag
2 cups barbecue sauce (recipes follow)
1. For the dry rub Combine all ingredients in bowl.
2. For the pork Pat pork dry with paper towels, then massage dry rub into meat. Wrap roast in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
3. At least 1 hour prior to cooking, remove roast from refrigerator, unwrap, and let sit at room temperature. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using 2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in two 8 by 4½-inch foil packets. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packets.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of each packet.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packets on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packets directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 325 degrees.)
5. Set roast in disposable pan, place on cooler side of grill, cover, and cook for 3 hours. During final 20 minutes of cooking, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.
6. Wrap disposable pan with heavy-duty foil and cook in oven until meat is fork-tender, about 2 hours.
7. Carefully slide foil-wrapped pan with roast into brown paper bag. Crimp end shut and let rest for 1 hour.
8. Transfer roast to carving board and unwrap. Separate roast into muscle sections, removing fat, if desired, and tearing meat into shreds with your fingers. Place shredded meat in large bowl and toss with 1 cup barbecue sauce. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Eastern North Carolina Barbecue Sauce
Makes about 2 cups
1 cup distilled white vinegar
1 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon hot sauce
Mix all ingredients together in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
Western South Carolina Barbecue Sauce
Makes about 2 cups
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup cider vinegar
½ cup Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup ketchup
Heat oil in small saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in vinegar, Worcestershire, mustard, sugar, paprika, salt, and cayenne, bring to simmer, and stir in ketchup. Cook over low heat until thickened, about 15 minutes. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
Mid-South Carolina Mustard Sauce
Makes about 2½ cups
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup vegetable oil
6 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons maple syrup or honey
4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon hot sauce
Mix all ingredients together in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Use 2 cups sauce in recipe. (Remaining sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
Why This Recipe Works There’s nothing as satisfying as a plate of eat-with-your-hands, juicy, tender baby back ribs. We wanted ribs that were fully seasoned with an intense smokiness. In other words, we wanted ribs that would be well worth the time and effort. Meaty ribs—racks as close to 2 pounds as possible—provided substantial, satisfying portions. Leaving the skin-like membrane on the ribs during cooking helped retain flavor and moistness and helped form a crispy crust. A brief stint in a standard salt-and-sugar brine ensured moist, well-seasoned ribs, while a simple spice rub of chili powder, cayenne, cumin, and brown sugar provided a good balance of sweet and spicy flavors and formed a nice, crisp crust. We barbecued the ribs for a couple of hours on the cooler side of the grill with wood chips and then moved them to a baking sheet and covered them with foil to gently finish cooking in the oven, which made for moist, tender baby back ribs with an intense smoky flavor. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet. You do not have to remove the membrane on the ribs in this recipe.
½ cup sugar, for brining
½ cup table salt, for brining
2 (1½- to 2-pound) racks baby back ribs, trimmed
3½ teaspoons paprika
1¾ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons chili powder
1½ teaspoons packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon white pepper
¾ teaspoon dried oregano
¾ teaspoon table salt
¾ teaspoon pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 cups wood chips
1. Dissolve ½ cup sugar and ½ cup salt in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge racks in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Combine paprika, cumin, chili powder, brown sugar, white pepper, oregano, ¾ teaspoon salt, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl. Rub each rack with 1 tablespoon spice rub. Let ribs sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
3. Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 300 to 325 degrees.)
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place ribs meaty side down on cooler side of grill. Cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal) and cook until ribs are deep red and smoky, about 2 hours, flipping and rotating racks halfway through grilling. During final 20 minutes of grilling, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.
6. Transfer ribs to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with foil and cook in oven until tender, 1 to 2 hours.
7. Remove ribs from oven, loosen foil to release steam, and let rest for 30 minutes. Slice ribs between bones and serve.
Kansas City Sticky Ribs
Serves 4 to 6MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works For barbecue fans who like to get their hands dirty, Kansas City sticky ribs are just the ticket. To bring the smoky flavor, tender meat, and signature sticky barbecue sauce home without hours by the grill, we focused on keeping the ribs moist while speeding up their cooking time. After treating a rack of St. Louis–style spareribs with a spicy rub, we readied our grill. Wood chips gave the ribs great smoky flavor, and we kept the meat moist by capturing the escaping steam with a sheet of aluminum foil placed directly on top of the ribs. Even on the cooler side of the grill, the ribs still developed a nice crusty exterior. After spreading on a thick coating of our homemade barbecue sauce, we wrapped the ribs tightly in foil to prevent the sauce from charring, added more hot coals and wood chips, and let the ribs cook for a final hour. More sauce brushed on before serving added a final layer of flavor. We like St. Louis–style racks, but if you can’t find them, baby back ribs will work fine. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packets.
Ribs
3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon table salt
1 tablespoon pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 (2½- to 3-pound) full racks pork spareribs, trimmed of any large pieces of fat and membrane removed
2 cups wood chips
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
Kansas City Barbecue Sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped fine
Pinch table salt
4 cups chicken broth
1 cup root beer
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup dark corn syrup
½ cup molasses
½ cup tomato paste
½ cup ketchup
2 tablespoons brown mustard
1 tablespoon hot sauce
½ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon liquid smoke
1. For the ribs Combine paprika, sugar, salt, pepper, and cayenne in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels and rub evenly with spice mixture. Wrap ribs in plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. (If refrigerated, let sit at room temperature for 1 hour before grilling.) Just before grilling, soak wood chips in water for 15 minutes, then drain. Using 2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap chips in two 8 by 4½-inch foil packets. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packets.
2. For the Kansas City barbecue sauce Meanwhile, heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Whisk in broth, root beer, vinegar, corn syrup, molasses, tomato paste, ketchup, mustard, hot sauce, and garlic powder. Bring sauce to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 4 cups, about 1 hour. Off heat, stir in liquid smoke. Let sauce cool to room temperature. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Measure out 1 cup barbecue sauce for cooking; set aside remaining sauce for serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway and place disposable pan on 1 side of grill. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into steeply banked pile against side of grill (opposite disposable pan). Place 1 wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packets directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place, turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium-high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature around 325 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Unwrap ribs and place, meat side down, on cooler side of grill; ribs may overlap slightly. Place sheet of foil directly on top of ribs. Cover (position lid vent over meat if using charcoal) and cook until ribs are deep red and smoky, about 2 hours, flipping and rotating racks halfway through cooking. During final 20 minutes of grilling, if using charcoal, light another large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour hot coals on top of spent coals and top with remaining wood chip packet. Flip and rotate ribs and cook, covered, for 1 hour.
5. Remove ribs from grill, brush evenly with 1 cup sauce, and wrap tightly with foil. Lay foil-wrapped ribs on grill and cook until tender, about 1 hour.
6. Transfer ribs (still in foil) to cutting board and let rest for 30 minutes. Unwrap ribs and brush with additional sauce. Slice ribs between bones and serve with remaining sauce.
REMOVING THE MEMBRANE FROM SPARERIBS
1. Slip tip of paring knife under edge of membrane on each rack to loosen it.
2. Gripping loosened edge with paper towel, slowly pull off membrane. It should come off in single piece.
Why This Recipe Works Country-style ribs are less like baby back ribs or spareribs and more like well-marbled pork chops. They contain both lean loin meat and a section of dark shoulder meat. The trick to cooking these on the grill was getting both parts to cook evenly. We started with a simple dry rub of chili powder, cayenne, salt, and brown sugar, which would encourage browning while adding a complex sweetness. Though cooking the ribs to 175 degrees delivered perfect dark meat, the light meat was woefully dry. On the flip side, pulling the ribs off the grill when they hit 135 to 140 degrees produced juicy light meat but chewy, underdone dark meat. A compromise was in order: 150 degrees. The fat in the ribs moistened the light meat enough that the slight overcooking wasn’t noticeable, while the dark meat still had a little tug to it but was nevertheless tender. We started the ribs over the hotter side of the grill for excellent browning, then finished them on the cooler side, where it was easy to baste the ribs with barbecue sauce and allow it to slowly caramelize without burning. When purchasing bone-in country-style ribs, look for those that are approximately 1 inch thick and that contain a large proportion of dark meat. Be sure to carefully trim the pork to reduce the number of flare-ups when the pork is grilled. This recipe requires refrigerating the spice-rubbed ribs for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours before grilling.
Pork
4 teaspoons packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon chili powder
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 pounds bone-in country-style pork ribs, trimmed
Sweet and Tangy Sauce
1 cup ketchup
5 tablespoons molasses
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
⅓ cup grated onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon chili powder
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. For the pork Combine sugar, salt, chili powder and cayenne in bowl. Pat ribs dry. Rub mixture all over ribs. Wrap ribs in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
2. For the sweet and tangy sauce Whisk ketchup, molasses, vinegar, Worcestershire, mustard, and pepper together in bowl. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic; cook until onion is softened, 2 to 4 minutes. Add chili powder and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Whisk in ketchup mixture and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer ½ cup of sauce to small bowl for basting and set aside remaining sauce for serving. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Unwrap ribs. Place ribs on hotter side of grill and cook until well browned on both sides, 4 to 7 minutes. Move ribs to cooler side of grill and brush top side with ¼ cup sauce for basting. Cover and cook for 6 minutes. Flip ribs and brush with remaining ¼ cup sauce for basting. Cover and continue to cook until pork registers 150 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer ribs to serving platter, tent with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve, passing reserved sauce separately.
Why This Recipe Works The combination of sausages with plenty of charred flavor and perfectly grilled peppers and onions makes a humble but delicious summertime meal. To properly cook both the sausages and the vegetables, we discovered that we needed to stagger the cooking process. We cooked the sausages gently on the cooler side of the grill until they were nearly done and then moved them to the hotter side to develop nice grill marks and a slight char. For the vegetables, we relied on the microwave to jump-start their cooking. We then transferred them to a disposable aluminum pan set on the hotter side of the grill, which acted as our makeshift ballpark flat-top grill. We seasoned the vegetables with vinegar, salt, and pepper, and they reached perfect tenderness just as the sausages finished cooking. Just before serving, we transferred the sausages to the disposable pan, covered it with aluminum foil, and let everything rest for a few minutes before serving. You can substitute hot Italian sausages for sweet, if desired. Minimal flare-ups are to be expected when grilling the sausages on the hotter side of the grill; they give the sausages color and flavor.
3 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
2 onions, halved and sliced ¼ inch thick
3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan
2 pounds sweet Italian sausage
12 (6-inch) Italian sub rolls
1. Toss bell peppers, onions, vinegar, sugar, oil, salt, and pepper together in bowl. Microwave, covered, until vegetables are just tender, about 6 minutes. Pour vegetable mixture and any accumulated juices into disposable pan.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s). (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 375 and 400 degrees.)
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place disposable pan on hotter side of grill (over primary burner if using gas). Cover and cook for 20 minutes.
4. Place sausages on cooler side of grill and stir vegetable mixture; cover and cook for 8 minutes. Flip sausages and stir vegetable mixture again; cover and cook until sausages register 150 degrees and vegetables are softened and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.
5. Transfer sausages to disposable pan with vegetables; slide disposable pan to cooler side of grill, then transfer sausages from disposable pan to hotter side of grill. Cook sausages, uncovered, turning often, until well browned and registering 160 degrees, 2 to 3 minutes (there may be flare-ups).
6. Return sausages to disposable pan with vegetables. Remove disposable pan from grill, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Divide sausages and vegetables among rolls. Serve.
Vietnamese Grilled Pork Patties with Rice Noodles and Salad (Bun Cha)
Serves 4 to 6
Why This Recipe Works Vietnamese bun cha—a vibrant mix of grilled pork, crisp salad, and delicate rice vermicelli, all united by a light yet potent sauce—is an ideal meal for a hot summer night. We started by boiling dried rice vermicelli, then we rinsed the noodles and spread them on a platter to dry. We mixed up a bold and zesty sauce known as nuoc cham using lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce. To ensure that every drop of the sauce was flavored with garlic and chile, we used a portion of the sugar to help grind the ingredients into a fine paste. For juicy pork patties, we mixed baking soda into ground pork, which raised the meat’s pH and helped it to retain moisture and brown during the brief grilling time. We also seasoned the pork with shallot, fish sauce, sugar, and pepper. Briefly soaking the grilled patties in the sauce further flavored the patties and imbued the sauce with grill flavor. Look for dried rice vermicelli in the Asian section of your supermarket. We prefer the more delicate springiness of vermicelli made from 100 percent rice flour to those that include a secondary starch such as cornstarch. If you can find only the latter, just cook them longer—up to 12 minutes. For a less spicy sauce, use only half the Thai chile. For the cilantro, use the leaves and the thin, delicate stems, not the thicker ones close to the root. To serve, place platters of noodles, salad, sauce, and pork patties on the table and allow diners to combine components to their taste. The sauce is potent, so use it sparingly.
Noodles and Salad
8 ounces rice vermicelli
1 head Boston lettuce (8 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces
1 English cucumber, peeled, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin on bias
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves and stems
1 cup fresh mint leaves, torn if large
Sauce
1 small Thai chile, stemmed and minced
3 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 garlic clove, minced
⅔ cup hot water
5 tablespoons fish sauce
¼ cup lime juice (2 limes)
Pork Patties
1 large shallot, minced
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon pepper
1 pound ground pork
1. For the noodles and salad Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Stir in noodles and cook until tender but not mushy, 4 to 12 minutes. Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until cool. Drain noodles very well, spread on large plate, and let stand at room temperature to dry. Arrange lettuce, cucumber, cilantro, and mint separately on large platter and refrigerate until needed.
2. For the sauce Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board using flat side of chef’s knife), mash Thai chile, 1 tablespoon sugar, and garlic to fine paste. Transfer to medium bowl and add hot water and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Stir in fish sauce and lime juice. Set aside.
3. For the pork patties Combine shallot, fish sauce, sugar, baking soda, and pepper in medium bowl. Add pork and mix until well combined. Shape pork mixture into 12 patties, each about 2½ inches wide and ½ inch thick.
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Cook patties (directly over coals if using charcoal; covered if using gas) until well charred, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer grilled patties to bowl with sauce and gently toss to coat. Let sit for 5 minutes.
6. Transfer patties to serving platter, reserving sauce. Serve noodles, salad, sauce, and pork patties separately.
Grilled Lamb Shoulder Chops with Zucchini and Corn Salad
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Grill-charred corn and zucchini brushed with a simple marinade gave this summery salad tons of flavor. We grilled the corn and the zucchini side by side after coating the vegetables in a pungent mixture of olive oil, garlic, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper. For a protein to grill and serve with our char-flavored salad, we chose inexpensive lamb shoulder chops—they are a great match with the grill because their distinctive gutsy flavor holds up well to the smoke. They’re also a fun way to mix things up when you’re used to grilling beef steaks, pork chops, or other more common cuts of meat. To imbue our lamb with flavor, we marinated the chops in a mixture of olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. We like our lamb shoulder chops cooked to medium as this cut can be tough if cooked any less than that.
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 garlic cloves, minced, divided
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
¾ teaspoon pepper, divided
4 (8- to 12-ounce) lamb shoulder chops (blade or round bone), ¾ to 1 inch thick, trimmed
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 ears corn, husks and silk removed
1½ pounds zucchini, sliced lengthwise into ½-inch-thick planks
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
4 teaspoons lemon juice
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (½ cup)
1. Whisk 3 tablespoons oil, one-third of garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in baking dish. Add lamb chops to marinade and turn to coat.
2. Whisk pepper flakes, remaining 5 tablespoons oil, remaining garlic, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Brush corn with 1 tablespoon oil mixture. Add zucchini to remaining oil mixture in bowl and toss to coat.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place corn and zucchini on grill; do not wash bowl, reserving any oil mixture remaining. Grill, uncovered, turning corn every 2 to 3 minutes until kernels are lightly charred all over, 10 to 15 minutes total, and zucchini is well browned and tender (not mushy), 5 to 7 minutes per side; transfer to plate. Turn all burners to high if using gas.
5. Place chops on grill and cook, covered, until browned and meat registers 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 4 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer chops to serving platter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest.
6. While lamb rests, cut kernels from cobs. Cut zucchini on bias into ½-inch-thick slices. Add vegetables to bowl with reserved oil mixture. Add basil and lemon juice to vegetables and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer salad to serving platter and sprinkle feta over top. Serve with lamb chops.
Why This Recipe Works In the Middle East, kebabs called kofte feature ground meat, not chunks, mixed with lots of spices and fresh herbs. Our challenge was to get their sausage-like texture just right. Because the patties are small, the meat easily overcooks and becomes dry. Plus, since kofte is kneaded by hand in order to get the meat proteins to cross-link and take on a resilient texture, it’s easy to make it too springy—or not springy enough. We skipped the traditional bread panade in favor of a little gelatin to keep our kofte moist after grilling. Pine nuts added richness and texture. For the spices, we used a variation on the common Middle Eastern spice blend called baharat, which contains black pepper, cumin, coriander, and chile pepper. For a cooling sauce to balance the spices of the kofte we made a yogurt-garlic-tahini-lemon mixture. Use the large holes of a box grater to grate the onion for this recipe. You will need eight 12-inch metal skewers for the kofte.
Yogurt-Garlic Sauce
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons tahini
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon table salt
Kofte
½ cup pine nuts
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1½ teaspoons hot smoked paprika
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ pounds ground lamb
½ cup grated onion, drained
⅓ cup minced fresh parsley
⅓ cup minced fresh mint
1½ teaspoons unflavored gelatin
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
1. For the sauce Whisk all ingredients together in bowl.
2. For the kofte Process pine nuts, garlic, paprika, salt, cumin, pepper, coriander, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon into paste in food processor, 30 to 45 seconds; transfer to large bowl. Add lamb, onion, parsley, mint, and gelatin to bowl and knead with your hands until thoroughly combined and mixture feels slightly sticky, about 2 minutes.
3. Divide mixture into 8 equal portions. Shape each portion into 5-inch-long cylinder about 1 inch in diameter. Using eight 12-inch metal skewers, thread 1 cylinder onto each skewer, pressing gently to adhere. Transfer skewers to lightly greased baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
4A. For a charcoal grill Using skewer, poke 12 holes in bottom of disposable pan. Open bottom vent completely and place disposable pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter two-thirds filled with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into disposable pan. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place skewers on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal) at 45-degree angle to grate bars. Cook (covered if using gas) until browned and meat easily releases from grill, 4 to 7 minutes. Flip skewers and continue to cook until browned on second side and meat registers 160 degrees, about 6 minutes. Transfer skewers to serving platter and serve, passing yogurt-garlic sauce separately.
Why This Recipe Works Swordfish is a favorite fish for grilling. It has a robust taste all its own and needs costarring ingredients with just as much oomph. For our skewers, we paired swordfish with a lively salad of attractive shaved zucchini ribbons, tender baby kale, salty ricotta salata, and bright fresh mint. We used Italian seasoning as a deeply flavorful and convenient rub on the swordfish and grilled the fish to perfection before serving the kebabs with our fresh, summery salad. Crumbled feta cheese can be substituted for the ricotta salata. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons), divided
1 tablespoon dried Italian seasoning
1½ teaspoons table salt, divided
1½ teaspoons pepper, divided
2 pounds skinless swordfish steaks, 1 inch thick, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 zucchini (8 ounces each), shaved into ribbons with vegetable peeler, seeds discarded
3 ounces (3 cups) baby kale
3 ounces ricotta salata, shaved
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1. Whisk ¼ cup oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, Italian seasoning, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in large bowl. Add swordfish and toss to coat. Thread swordfish evenly onto four 12-inch metal skewers.
2. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 teaspoon pepper together in second large bowl; set dressing aside.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Grill skewers, turning often, until swordfish registers 140 degrees, 9 to 12 minutes. Transfer to serving platter. Add zucchini, kale, ricotta salata, and mint to bowl with dressing and toss to coat. Serve with swordfish.
Why This Recipe Works Hearty salmon steaks are a common choice for summer grilling, but in spite of their thick cut they often end up with a burnt exterior and a dry, flavorless interior. Plus, no matter how much seasoning goes on the outside, it never seems to permeate the whole steak. To make the process foolproof, we first turned the oblong steaks into sturdy medallions. By carefully removing a bit of skin from one tail of the steak, tightly wrapping the skin of the other tail around the skinned portion, and then tying the whole thing with kitchen twine, we made neat steaks that cooked evenly and could be easily moved around the grill. We used a two-level cooking approach, beginning with an initial sear over the hotter part of the grill. While the steaks seared, we made a simple, bright lemon and caper sauce directly in a disposable aluminum pan over the cooler side of the grill. When the steaks were browned, we transferred them to the pan, coated them with the sauce, and finished cooking them over the lower heat directly in the sauce, which ensured that they stayed moist and tender. Before eating, lift out the small circular bone from the center of each steak. Arctic char and wild salmon are good substitutes for the salmon. If using, make sure to cook them to 120 degrees.
Lemon-Caper Sauce
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 6 tablespoons juice (2 lemons)
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
⅛ teaspoon table salt
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan
Salmon
4 (10-ounce) skin-on salmon steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. For the sauce Combine butter, lemon zest and juice, shallot, capers, and salt in disposable pan.
2. For the salmon Pat salmon dry with paper towels. Working with 1 steak at a time, carefully trim 1½ inches of skin from 1 tail. Tightly wrap other tail around skinned portion and tie steak with kitchen twine. Sprinkle salmon with salt and pepper and brush both sides with oil.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).
4. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Place salmon on hotter side of grill. Cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes. Meanwhile, set disposable pan with butter mixture on cooler side of grill and cook until butter has melted, about 2 minutes.
5. Transfer salmon to disposable pan and gently turn to coat with butter mixture. Cook (covered if using gas) until center of salmon is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 6 to 14 minutes, flipping salmon and rotating pan halfway through grilling. Remove twine and transfer salmon to serving platter. Off heat, whisk parsley into sauce. Drizzle sauce over steaks. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Grilled Salmon Steaks with Orange-Ginger Sauce
Replace lemon zest and juice with orange zest and orange juice. Omit shallot and capers; add 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger and 1 tablespoon soy sauce to mixture in step 1. Substitute 1 thinly sliced scallion for parsley in step 3.
Grilled Salmon Steaks with Lime-Cilantro Sauce
Replace lemon zest and juice with lime zest and lime juice. Omit shallot and capers; add 2 minced garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon ground cumin to mixture in step 1. Substitute cilantro for parsley in step 3.
Prepping Salmon Medallions
1. Remove 1½ inches of skin from 1 tail of each steak.
2. Tuck skinned portion into center of steak, wrap other tail around it, and tie with kitchen twine.
Grill-Smoked Salmon
Serves 6
Why This Recipe Works We wanted to capture the intense, smoky flavor of smoked fish, but we also wanted to skip the specialized equipment and make this dish less of a project recipe. To prepare the salmon for smoking, we quick-cured the fish with a mixture of salt and sugar, which firmed it up and seasoned it inside and out. We then cooked the fish indirectly over a gentle fire with ample smoke. We also cut our large fillet into individual portions to make serving simple. This small step delivered big results: First, it ensured more thorough smoke exposure (without increasing the time) by creating more surface area. Second, the smaller pieces of delicate salmon were far easier to get off the grill intact than one large fillet. To ensure uniform pieces of fish that cooked at the same rate, we found it best to buy a whole center-cut fillet and cut it into six pieces ourselves. Arctic char and wild salmon are good substitutes for the salmon. If using, make sure to cook them to 120 degrees. If you’d like to use wood chunks instead of wood chips when using a charcoal grill, substitute two medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packet.
1 (2½-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, 1 to 1½ inches thick
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 cups wood chips, 1 cup soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained
1. Cut salmon crosswise into 6 fillets. Combine sugar and salt in bowl. Set salmon, skin side down, on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle flesh side evenly with sugar mixture. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 1 hour. Meanwhile, using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap both soaked wood chips and remaining 1 cup unsoaked chips in 8 by 4½-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.
2. Brush any excess salt and sugar from salmon using paper towels and blot salmon dry. Return fish to wire rack and refrigerate, uncovered, until ready to cook. Fold piece of heavy-duty foil into 18 by 6-inch rectangle.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter one-third filled with charcoal briquettes (2 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into steeply banked pile against side of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set cooking grate in place and turn primary burner to high (leave other burner[s] off). Cover and heat grill until hot and wood chips begin to smoke, 15 to 25 minutes. Turn primary burner to medium. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 275 to 300 degrees.)
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place foil rectangle on cooler side of grill and place salmon fillets on foil, spaced at least ½ inch apart. Cover (position lid vent over fish if using charcoal) and cook until center of salmon is still translucent when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 30 to 40 minutes. Transfer to serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Grilled Blackened Red Snapper
Serves 4
Why This Recipe Works Blackened fish is usually prepared in a cast-iron skillet, but that can lead to one smoky kitchen. We were done with the smoke but we wanted our fillets to have a dark brown, crusty, sweet-smoky, toasted-spice exterior, providing a rich contrast to the moist, mild-flavored fish inside. We thought we’d solve our problems by throwing the fish on the grill. Unfortunately, this move created a host of other issues, including that the fish stuck to the grate, the outside of the fish was way overdone by the time the flesh had cooked through, and the skin-on fillets curled midway through cooking. The curling problem was easy to fix: We simply needed to score the skin. To prevent sticking, we made sure the grill was hot when we put the fish on and oiled the grate multiple times to ensure a clean surface. Finally, to give the fish its flavorful blackened-but-not-burned coating, we bloomed our spice mixture in melted butter, allowed it to cool, and then applied the coating to the fish. Once on the grill, the spice crust acquired the proper depth and richness while the fish cooked through.
Pineapple and Cucumber Salsa with Mint
½ large pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
½ cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces
1 small shallot, minced
1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon lime juice, plus extra as needed
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon table salt
Fish
2 tablespoons paprika
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon white pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on red snapper fillets, ¾ inch thick
1. For the salsa Combine pineapple, cucumber, shallot, chile, mint, lime juice, ginger, and salt in bowl and let sit at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes. Set aside for serving.
2. For the fish Combine paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, coriander, salt, pepper, cayenne, and white pepper in bowl. Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Stir in spice mixture and cook, stirring often, until fragrant and spices turn dark rust color, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer mixture to pie plate and let cool to room temperature. Use fork to break up any large clumps.
3. Pat snapper dry with paper towels. Using sharp knife, make shallow diagonal slashes every inch along skin side of fish, being careful not to cut into flesh. Using your fingers, rub spice mixture evenly over top, bottom, and sides of fish (you should use all of spice mixture).
4A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter two-thirds filled with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
4B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
5. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times.
6. Place snapper skin side down on grill (on hotter side if using charcoal) with fillets perpendicular to grate. Cook until skin is very dark brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip snapper and continue to cook until dark brown and beginning to flake when prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, about 5 minutes. Serve with salsa.
Why This Recipe Works Grilling a whole fish is super appealing in the summer and makes for an impressive dinner centerpiece. But it also has its challenges: the skin can stick fast to the grill and the meat can cook unevenly. We wanted a foolproof way to conquer these challenges. Using semifirm, midsize, mild-flavored fish was the first step to success. Making shallow diagonal slashes on the skin helped ensure even cooking and enabled us to gauge the doneness more easily. To prevent the skin from sticking, we greased the cooking grate and coated the fish with a film of oil. We used two thin metal spatulas to flip the delicate fish once the first side was done. They also made it easier to remove the cooked fish from the grill. The cooked fish needed only a few cuts for us to use one of our spatulas to lift away the meat from the bones on each side in a single piece. A fresh relish or vinaigrette is the perfect complement to the simple grilled fish. If your fish are a little larger (between 1½ and 2 pounds), simply grill them a minute or two longer on each side. Fish weighing more than 2 pounds will be hard to maneuver on the grill and should be avoided. Serve with lemon wedges and Chermoula (this page), if desired.
2 whole red snapper or striped bass (about 1½ pounds each), scaled, gutted, and fins snipped off with scissors
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ teaspoons table salt
¾ teaspoon pepper
Lemon wedges
1A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
2. Rinse each snapper under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels inside and out. Using sharp knife, make 3 or 4 shallow slashes, about 2 inches apart, on both sides of fish. Rub fish with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper on inside and outside.
3. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Lay snapper on grill, perpendicular to grate bars. Cook (covered if using gas) until side of snapper facing heat source is browned and crisp, 6 to 7 minutes. Using thin metal spatula, lift bottom of thick backbone edge of fish from cooking grate just enough to slide second thin metal spatula under fish. Remove first spatula, then use it to support raw side of fish as you use second spatula to flip fish over. Cook (covered if using gas) until flesh is no longer translucent at center, skin on both sides of each snapper is blistered and crisp, and snapper registers 140 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes. Carefully transfer snapper to serving platter and let rest for 5 minutes.
4. Fillet each snapper by making vertical cut just behind head from top of snapper to belly. Make another cut along top of snapper from head to tail. Use spatula to lift meat from bones, starting at head end and running spatula over bones to lift out fillet. Repeat on other side of snapper. Discard head and skeleton and serve with lemon wedges.
SERVING WHOLE FISH
1. Make vertical cut just behind head from top to belly, then cut along back of fish from head to tail.
2. Starting at head and working toward tail, use metal spatula to lift meat away from bones. Repeat on second side.
Why This Recipe Works In theory, scallops are tailor-made for the grill. The superhot fire should deeply brown their exteriors while leaving their centers plump and moist. Unfortunately, in reality, by the time the scallops develop a good sear, they’re usually overcooked and rubbery. And then there’s the problem of trying to flip them when they inevitably stick to the cooking grate. To avoid overcooking the scallops yet still develop a brown crust, we needed a quick blast of heat, so we built the hottest fire possible by corralling the coals in a disposable aluminum pan set in the bottom of the grill. To make flipping easier, we lightly coated the scallops with a slurry of vegetable oil, flour, cornstarch, and sugar and threaded them onto doubled metal skewers. The slurry kept the scallops from sticking to the cooking grate, the sugar promoted browning, and the two skewers prevented the scallops from spinning when flipped. Thoroughly oiling the grate also helped get our scallops off the grill in one piece. We created two boldly flavored vinaigrettes to complement the juicy, smoky scallops; one with chili sauce and lime and one with fresh basil and chives. We recommend buying “dry” scallops, which don’t have chemical additives and taste better than “wet.” Dry scallops will look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white. To double-skewer the scallops, thread four to six scallops onto one skewer and then place a second skewer through the scallops parallel to and about ¼ inch from the first. You will need eight to twelve 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe. If you use a charcoal grill, make sure the roasting pan you use is at least 2¾ inches deep.
1½ pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed
1 (13 by 9-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan (if using charcoal)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Lemon wedges
1 recipe vinaigrette (optional) (recipes follow)
1. Place scallops on rimmed baking sheet lined with clean dish towel. Place second clean dish towel on top of scallops and press gently on towel to blot liquid. Let scallops sit at room temperature, covered with towel, for 10 minutes. Thread scallops onto doubled 12-inch metal skewers so that flat sides will directly touch cooking grate, 4 to 6 scallops per pair of skewers. Return skewered scallops to towel-lined sheet; refrigerate, covered with second towel, while preparing grill.
2A. For a charcoal grill Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). Poke twelve ½-inch holes in bottom of disposable pan and place in center of grill. When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into disposable pan.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until very hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until grate is black and glossy, 5 to 10 times.
4. Whisk oil, flour, cornstarch, and sugar together in small bowl. Brush both sides of skewered scallops with oil mixture and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place skewered scallops on grill (directly over coals if using charcoal). Cook scallops (covered if using gas), without moving them, until lightly browned, 2½ to 4 minutes. Carefully flip skewers and continue to cook until second side is browned, sides of scallops are firm, and centers are opaque, 2 to 4 minutes. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and vinaigrette, if using.
Chile-Lime Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon sriracha
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest plus 3 tablespoons juice (2 limes)
½ cup vegetable oil
Whisk honey, sriracha, fish sauce, and lime zest and juice until combined. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil until emulsified.
Basil Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
If you don’t have champagne vinegar, white wine vinegar will also work here.
1 cup fresh basil leaves
3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
⅔ cup vegetable oil
Pulse basil, chives, vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt, and pepper in blender until roughly chopped. With blender running, slowly drizzle in oil until emulsified, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed.
Why This Recipe Works We wanted tender grilled shrimp with a smoky, charred crust and chile flavor that was more than just superficial. To achieve this, we sprinkled one side of the shrimp with sugar to promote browning and cooked the shrimp sugar side down over the hot side of the grill for a few minutes. We then flipped the skewers to gently finish cooking on the cool side of the grill. Creating a flavorful marinade that doubled as a sauce gave our shrimp skewers a spicy, assertive kick. And butterflying the shrimp before marinating and grilling them opened up more shrimp flesh for the marinade and finishing sauce to flavor. We prefer flat metal skewers that are at least 14 inches long for this recipe.
Marinade
1–2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 5 tablespoons juice (3 limes)
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Shrimp
1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1. For the marinade Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 15 seconds. Reserve 2 tablespoons marinade; transfer remaining marinade to medium bowl.
2. For the shrimp Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. To butterfly shrimp, use paring knife to make shallow cut down outside curve of shrimp. Add shrimp to bowl with marinade and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
3A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Thread marinated shrimp on skewers. (Alternate direction of each shrimp as you pack them tightly on skewer to allow about a dozen shrimp to fit snugly on each skewer.) Sprinkle 1 side of skewered shrimp with sugar. Grill shrimp, sugared side down, over hot side of grill (covered if using gas), until lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip skewers and move to cool side of grill (if using charcoal) or turn all burners off (if using gas), and cook, covered, until other side of shrimp is no longer translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, slide shrimp into clean medium bowl and toss with reserved marinade. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.
VARIATION
Grilled Red Chile and Ginger Shrimp Skewers
Replace marinade with 1 to 3 seeded and chopped small red chiles (or jalapeños), 1 minced scallion, 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger, 2 teaspoons sugar, and 1 minced garlic clove. Prepare and grill shrimp as directed. Replace cilantro with 1 thinly sliced scallion and serve with lime wedges.
HOW TO SKEWER SHRIMP
1. Make shallow cut down outside curve of shrimp to open up flesh.
2. Alternate direction of each shrimp as you pack them tightly on skewer.
