MY ENTHUSIASM FOR handheld entrées was one force behind my first book, Veggie Burgers Every Which Way. There is something hugely appealing about an entrée that’s compact and dense with flavor and can be sandwiched between two pieces of bread. That exactly defines what veggie burgers are—more accurately than any comparison to their meaty counterparts.
I was shocked to learn that sandwiches are one of the most frequent entrées to grace the American dinner plate, but after some consideration it made sense. After all, what’s not to like in a sandwich? What better communicates nourishment and ease? This chapter covers more than sandwiches, but that ease and nourishment characterize all of the offerings here. There are savory cakes made from vegetables and grains, some special recipes for sandwiches, and a few related offerings, like tostadas and burritos.
And while one way to think about these recipes focuses on their transportability, I’m not a big fan of eating in motion—in the car, walking to the bus station, or even standing up. But I do believe that handheld entrées are perfect meals for dining in solitude. My Favorite Grilled Cheese Sandwich (page 153) is a restorative private dinner, best enjoyed after an exhausting catering job (at least this is how I enjoy it). A frittata sandwich (see page 151 for one specific recipe) is a surprisingly rewarding meal that can be slapped together from leftovers. The ideas here will get your creative juices flowing, so that you’ll soon have your own repertoire of handheld entrées, and hopefully a special “veg out” entrée of your own.
I FIRST MADE these zucchini latkes when I was spending the weekend at my friend Ilsa’s farm in western Massachusetts, using vegetables that were left over from the morning’s farmers’ market. I was cooking for someone with a gluten intolerance, so I used rice flour to bind the mixture, and to my surprise it resulted in the best latkes I’d ever made. Latkes make a terrific snack or side dish, with sour cream and applesauce for dipping, but I especially like to use them as a base for cooked vegetables, like greens or stewed tomatoes. See page 146 for a few topping ideas. You can serve these with bread and salad, but I find that latkes go especially well with unfussy cooked vegetables, like steamed or roasted turnips dressed with salt and olive oil, or roasted carrots.
MAKES 8 LATKES; SERVES 43 medium Yukon Gold or other waxy potatoes (about 12 ounces, 325 g)
1 medium zucchini
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley, or chives
3 to 5 tablespoons rice flour
3 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork. Arrange them on a baking sheet and roast for 25 to 35 minutes, until just tender; a skewer inserted in the center should meet just a bit of resistance. When they’re cool enough to handle, grate the potatoes using the large holes of a box grater, discarding the large pieces of potato skin that remain.
3. Meanwhile, grate the zucchini using the large holes of a box grater. Toss with the salt and place in a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain for at least 15 minutes. Gather the zucchini up in the cheesecloth and squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible.
4. Combine the grated potato and zucchini in a bowl. Fold in the egg and herbs. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of the rice flour over the mixture and fold it in gently, until the mixture just comes together, adding additional rice flour if necessary.
5. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Scoop up a ¼-cup portion of the mixture and put it in the sauté pan, pressing it gently to flatten it into a 4-inch (10 cm) round. Continue adding latkes to the pan in this way, making sure they don’t touch and working in batches as need be. Cook, flipping once, until browned on each side and firmed to the touch, 8 to 10 minutes total. To keep cooked latkes warm while you continue frying the rest, place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and keep in a 250°F (120°C) oven. Serve hot.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, latkes will keep for 1 day in the refrigerator and up to 1 month in the freezer.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
QUINOA IS AN excellent grain to work into your diet. For one thing, it’s a complete protein, containing all of the essential amino acids. It’s also filling and inexpensive, though its grassy notes can be an acquired taste. If at first you’re put off by this, I recommend using it in seasoned dishes, such as this one, where it won’t dominate the flavor of the dish. These cakes, which are zingy and have a faint crunch, make a very colorful plate when paired with cold, roasted beets that have been gently tossed in a spoonful of thick, Greek-style yogurt.
MAKES 10 CAKES; SERVES 4 TO 51 cup (170 g) quinoa
2 cups (475 ml) water
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, minced
8 ounces (230 g) carrots, peeled and grated
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
2 eggs, beaten
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Thoroughly rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh sieve. Combine the quinoa and water in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the tail-like germ of the quinoa is exposed.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and sauté until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrots and sauté until softened but still a bit crunchy, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour in the vinegar to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon or spatula. Set aside to cool slightly.
4. Combine the quinoa, carrots, and dill in a bowl, then stir in the eggs, salt, and pepper. Shape into 10 patties, about 3 inches (8 cm) in diameter and 1 inch (3 cm) in thickness and arrange them on the lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until crisp on the exterior and firm to the touch. Serve hot.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, these cakes will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator and 1 month in the freezer.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 minutes
A LITTLE BIT flapjack, a little bit veggie burger, these corn cakes are substantial without being heavy and sweet without being cloying, with a gentle tang from the yogurt and an addictive, crispy crust. You can’t go wrong pairing these cakes with tomatoes. Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24) or your favorite simple tomato sauce makes a perfect topping. Salsa is another obvious choice. I also love to top them with tart little heirloom cherry tomatoes that have been marinated in a bit of olive oil for 20 or 30 minutes.
MAKES 6 CAKES; SERVES 3½ cup (70 g) stone-ground cornmeal or polenta
¼ cup (30 g) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
½ cup (120 g) plain, unsweetened yogurt
1½ cups (180 g) fresh corn kernels (from about 3 ears) or frozen corn kernels, thawed and drained
4 scallions, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed
1. Put the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl and whisk to combine.
2. Put the eggs, yogurt, and two thirds of the corn in a food processor and pulse until coarsely pureed, about 10 to 12 pulses. Pour the mixture into the cornmeal mixture and gently fold it in until combined. Fold in the scallions and the remaining corn.
3. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Scoop up a scant ¼-cup (60 ml) portion of the mixture and put it in the sauté pan, pressing it gently to flatten into a 4-inch (10 cm) round and cooking in batches to avoid crowding. (If there are too many cakes in the pan, they will be difficult to flip.) Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes. Carefully flip and cook until the second side is golden brown and the cakes are firm in the center, another 2 to 4 minutes, adding more oil to the pan as needed. To keep cooked cakes warm while you continue frying the rest, place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and keep in a 250°F (120°C) oven. Serve hot.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, these cakes will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator and 1 month in the freezer.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 25 minutes
RISOTTO CAKES MAKE excellent use of leftover risotto—much tastier than it would be if simply reheated. Feel free to use whatever type of risotto you please. This recipe calls for shaping the risotto into larger cakes so that they can be served as an entrée, but mini cakes make an excellent appetizer. I recommend topping these with the Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24), but you can substitute any tomato sauce you please, or eat them unadorned—which is tempting. If you use another type of risotto, choose whatever savory sauce seems complementary.
MAKES 6 CAKES; SERVES 32 cups (475 ml) Basic Vegetable Risotto (or any variation; see page 63), chilled
½ cup (60 g) all-purpose flour
1 egg, beaten
1 cup (120 g) panko
3 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1½ cups (360 ml) warm Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24) or other simple tomato sauce
1. Shape the risotto into 6 patties using about 1/3 cup of risotto per patty.
2. Place the flour and the panko on separate plates, and place the beaten egg in a small mixing bowl. Dredge a risotto patty in the flour until evenly coated, then dip it in the egg, turning as needed to coat evenly, and then dredge it through the panko, once again coating it completely. Repeat with the remaining risotto patties.
3. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the patties and sauté until golden brown and crisp on both sides, carefully flipping halfway through, about 10 minutes total.
4. If desired, puree the tomato sauce using an immersion blender, food processor, or regular blender.
5. Serve hot, topped with the tomato sauce.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, these cakes will keep for 1 day in the refrigerator and up to 1 month in the freezer.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 25 minutes
GRAIN AND vegetable cakes are excellent as hearty snacks or side dishes, but to qualify as filling entrées, they usually need something additional to dress them up. They can certainly be turned into sandwiches or veggie burgers, but another approach is to treat them as a base for flavorful vegetables. Here are several of my favorite options. All of these toppings make an amount sufficient for three to four servings of cakes.
BRAISED COLLARD GREENS: Remove the stems from 1 bunch of collard greens and chop the leaves into 1-inch (3 cm) pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter or olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, add 1 small minced onion and sauté until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add a minced seeded jalapeño and sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with 2 tablespoons cider vinegar. Add the collard greens and ¼ cup water (if the leaves have just been cleaned and have water still clinging to them, omit the additional water, but add more if needed). Cook until the leaves are uniformly dark green, 12 to 15 minutes, tossing periodically and adding more water as the liquid in the pan dries up. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then spoon over the hot cakes and serve.
TOMATO SAUCE AND POACHED EGGS: Warm 1½ cups (360 ml) of simple tomato sauce (such as Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce, page 24). If desired, puree the sauce with an immersion blender, food processor, or regular blender. Poach 4 eggs (see page 172). Divide the sauce over each serving of cakes, then top with a poached egg. Garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a few grinds of black pepper, and a dusting of Parmesan cheese if desired.
ROASTED EGGPLANT AND TOMATOES: Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Arrange 1 globe eggplant or 2 small Japanese eggplants on one side of a foil-lined baking sheet and 1 pint (340 g) of cherry tomatoes on the other side. Prick the eggplants all over with a sharp knife. Roast for 20 minutes, then remove the tomatoes. Return the eggplant to the oven and bake for 20 more minutes, until it’s flattened and tender. When cool enough to handle, trim the ends, peel off the skin, and coarsely chop the flesh. Toss with the tomatoes, a big pinch of salt, and 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil, to taste. Divide the mixture over the cakes and garnish with minced fresh basil or oregano if desired.
MARINATED CHARD WITH GOAT CHEESE: Cut 1 bunch of chard into 1-inch (3 cm) strips and sauté in 1 tablespoon olive oil. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out any excess moisture, then toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt to taste, a pinch of lemon zest, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Arrange on top of the cakes, followed by 1 tablespoon crumbled creamy goat cheese per serving.
I DEVELOPED THIS veggie burger after Veggie Burgers Every Which Way was published. It was inspired by two things: The first was an overflowing bag of zucchini I picked up from my CSA one week. The second was a revelatory discovery of what a delicious flavor combination zucchini and almonds make, with almonds complementing the delicate flavor of the zucchini and rounding it into something mature. This burger is moist, succulent, and nicely textured. The recipe has plenty of room for improvisation; play with the herbs, substitute a parboiled potato for part of the zucchini, or consider using walnuts or pecans in place of the almonds. I like to serve these with pickled red onions and slices of juicy summer tomato on classic hamburger buns.
SERVES 44 small zucchini, yellow squash, or a combination (about 1 pound, 450 g)
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup (25 g) roasted almonds (see page 13), finely chopped
3 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 egg, beaten
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (30 g) toasted bread crumbs, preferably homemade (page 17), or more as needed
1 tablespoon neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. Grate the zucchini using the large holes of a box grater. Toss with the salt and place in a cheesecloth-lined colander to drain for at least 15 minutes. Gather the zucchini up in the cheesecloth and squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible.
3. Combine the zucchini with the almonds, basil, flour, egg, and pepper in a bowl. Add the bread crumbs and stir gently until the mixture just comes together, adding more bread crumbs if necessary. The mixture will be quite wet. Shape into 4 patties.
4. Heat the oil in an oven-safe sauté pan over medium heat. Put the burgers in the pan and cook until golden brown on the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes. Carefully flip and cook until the second side is golden brown, another 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the burgers are firm.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, these burgers will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator and 1 month in the freezer.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 minutes
BANH MI, KNOWN sometimes simply as “Vietnamese sandwiches,” are a culinary product of the French colonization of Vietnam that have recently become trendy in the States. Traditional banh mi, which include pâté and usually some version of pork, have long been appreciated as inexpensive, handheld takeout food. In this vegetarian version, the tofu marinade produces enticing aromas and also hardens slightly in the oven to create something akin to spicy-savory tofu candy. The challenge in making these is to find Vietnamese baguettes, which are about 10 inches (25 cm) long and have a brittle crust and an interior so pillowy soft and light that they’re practically weightless. If you can’t find them, look for baguettes that are very light—nothing too chewy or tough. This isn’t necessarily a complicated recipe, but between the sheer number of steps and the help you might need to find the baguettes, it’s a good candidate for cooking with friends!
SERVES 4One 14-ounce (380 g) block extra-firm tofu
2 tablespoons chili paste, such as sambal oelek
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup (60 g) packed brown sugar
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger (see page 13)
¼ cup (60 ml) plus 2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 carrot
1 daikon radish, or 8 standard radishes
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce
4 Vietnamese baguettes (see headnote)
1 cup (20 g) loosely packed cilantro sprigs
1. Drain the tofu and put it on the cutting board, broad side facing up. Cut it into 4 pieces lengthwise, then turn each piece onto its skinniest side and cut lengthwise into three thin rectangles, about 2½ inches (6 cm) by 1¼ inches (3 cm), and slightly less than ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Line a baking sheet with a tea towel or double layer of paper towels and arrange the tofu in a single layer. Top with another layer of towels, and then cover with something flat and wide enough to cover all the tofu, like a baking sheet or Pyrex baking dish. Place something heavy, such as a few cans or a heavy pan, on top. The goal is to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Let sit for 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Put the chili paste, soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, and ginger in a small bowl. Add the 2 teaspoons vinegar and stir until thoroughly combined. Spread half of the mixture on the bottom of a 9 × 13-inch (23 × 33 cm) baking pan. Arrange the pressed tofu on top of the mixture, then spread the remainder of the mixture over the tofu, being sure to distribute it evenly. Let sit for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours.
3. Meanwhile, peel the carrot and cut it into long, very thin strands, ideally the thickness of matchsticks. (If you have a mandoline, use it to julienne the carrot.) Do the same with the daikon; if using standard radishes, slice them into paper-thin rounds. Place the carrot and radish in separate bowls. Whisk together the ¼ cup (60 ml) rice vinegar, salt, and sugar until dissolved. Drizzle the mixture over the carrot and radish, dividing it evenly, and toss to combine. Allow to stand for at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
5. Bake the tofu, still in the same pan and with its marinade, for 30 to 40 minutes, carefully flipping it every 15 minutes, until it has toughened a bit and the exterior seems candy-coated and feels slightly crisp.
6. Stir together the mayonnaise and the sriracha sauce. When the tofu has 5 more minutes to cook, place the baguettes in the oven to warm them up.
7. To assemble the sandwiches, cut the baguettes in half lengthwise. Spread the mayonnaise mixture on both cut faces, using 1 tablespoon per baguette. Layer 3 rectangles of tofu on the bottom half, then divide the carrots, radishes, and cilantro among the sandwiches on top of the tofu. Top with the other half of the baguette and serve warm.
LEFTOVERS: The assembled sandwiches are best eaten freshly prepared, but stored separately in airtight containers, the baked tofu, carrot, and radish will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 1 hour and 30 minutes
FRITTATAS, UNLIKE OTHER basic egg preparations like scrambled, fried, or poached eggs or omelets, keep very well in the fridge overnight. I’m always wrapping up portions for bag lunches, but they can also be repurposed as delicious sandwiches, which in some ways make them a serious improvement on a classic egg salad sandwich. Anytime eggs are involved, I think textural contrast is key, so I’m partial to using a crusty baguette or ciabatta and crisp romaine lettuce for such sandwiches. Otherwise, you can make the sandwich as plain or fussy as you choose. I especially enjoy adding roasted red peppers (page 19) and onion marmalade (page 23). And while I’ve included the recipe for a small frittata below, feel free to substitute your favorite recipe or your leftovers.
SERVES 4½ cup (120 ml) water
¼ cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
6 eggs
1 small red onion, sliced into thin rings
1 tablespoon reduced-fat milk (1% or 2%)
1/3 cup (25 g) grated Parmesan cheese
¼ teaspoon salt
A few grinds of black pepper
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 standard baguette, or 4 ciabatta rolls, halved lengthwise
FOR THE SANDWICH TOPPINGS
Roasted red bell pepper (page 19), cut into ½-inch (1 cm) strips
Fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
Avocado slices
Romaine lettuce leaves
Tomato slices
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Whisk together the water, vinegar, kosher salt, and sugar until dissolved. Add the onions and let stand for at least 30 minutes.
3. Whisk together the eggs, milk, Parmesan, salt, and pepper.
4. Melt the butter in an oven-safe 10-inch (25 cm) nonstick sauté pan over medium heat, swirling to ensure that the entire inside surface of the pan is coated. When hot, pour in the eggs, using a rubber spatula to scrape every last bit from the bowl. Let the eggs cook undisturbed for 1 or 2 minutes, until beginning to set around the edges. Run the spatula around the perimeter of the mixture, then tuck the spatula underneath one edge of the mixture to lift it up and, at the same time, tilt the pan toward the spatula so some of the uncooked egg can run underneath. Let the mixture cook undisturbed for 1 more minute, then repeat. Continue in this way until the frittata is mostly set on top.
5. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until just set and dry in the center. Remove from the pan and allow to cool slightly.
6. Slice the bread in half lengthwise and toast until just crispy. Cut the cooked frittata into wedges and arrange on the bottom halves of the bread. Drain the onion and arrange the rings atop the frittata. Add other toppings as desired, then cover with the top half of the bread and serve right away.
LEFTOVERS: The assembled sandwiches are best eaten within a few hours, but stored separately in the refrigerator, the frittata will keep for 2 days and the onion will keep for 1 week. Wrap the frittata tightly and store the onion in an airtight container.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 minutes
MAKING A GREAT grilled cheese sandwich begins with using great ingredients. When there are so few, you can’t take any risks, and I feel it is especially important to begin with good bread. My favorite kind is an Italian-style loaf that has a crisp, sesame-seed covered crust and a tender, moist interior and that toasts beautifully. This sandwich is easiest to pull together when you have roasted tomatoes on hand (which, once you start incorporating them into your meals, you surely will). And what a treat after a long day’s work—to sink into a cushioned chair with a delicious grilled cheese sandwich in your hand and a napkin draped over your lap. The tomatoes offer bursts of sweetness; the olives, counterbalancing salt; the sriracha sauce, a whisper of heat; and the Fontina, which is an Italian cow’s milk cheese, a blanket of earthy, creamy nuttiness that carries the sandwich to sublimity.
SERVES 12 slices rustic bread, 1 inch (3 cm) thick
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce
Two or three ¼-inch (5 mm) thick slices of Fontina cheese (enough to cover the bread)
6 to 8 kalamata olives, smashed with the flat side of a knife and pitted if necessary
5 roasted cherry tomatoes (page 21), coarsely chopped
Cold butter for frying
1. Spread the facing surfaces of the two slices of bread with the sriracha sauce. Arrange the cheese, olives, and tomatoes atop one slice of bread. Top with the other piece of bread and dot the upper surface with flecks of cold butter.
2. Heat a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Place the sandwich in it, buttered side down, and cook until golden brown and crisp on the first side, 3 to 5 minutes, applying pressure with a spatula or covering the pan for a while if necessary to encourage the cheese to melt. Dot the top of the uncooked side with butter, then flip the sandwich. Cook until the second side is golden brown and crisp and the cheese is beginning to ooze out, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot.
LEFTOVERS: Grilled cheese sandwiches are best eaten freshly cooked.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 15 minutes
CONTRARY TO WHAT U.S. chain restaurants may have led you to believe, burritos don’t have to be the size and weight of a brick. It’s refreshing to be served a reasonable burrito, especially one that’s bursting with fresh vegetables and nuanced flavor, as in this recipe. To simulate the effect of steaming the tortillas to make them soft and malleable before filling them, as they do at burrito shops, wrap them, in a stack, tightly in foil and place in a warm oven for 10 minutes.
SERVES 61 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds, 1 kg)
3 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 flour tortillas
1 bunch spinach (about 14 ounces, 380 g), tough stems removed and roughly chopped
2 cups cooked black beans, or one 15-ounce (425 g) can, drained and rinsed
2 ounces (60 g) crumbled queso fresco or cotija cheese (½ cup)
¼ cup (5 g) coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup pickled jalapeño peppers, drained (about one 7-ounce can, 205 g)
4 ounces (115 g) mozzarella cheese, grated (1 cup)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Trim the ends of the squash and cut the squash in half at the point where the narrow neck transitions into the bulbous bottom. With the flat surface on the cutting board, carefully cut the skin off in thin strips from top to bottom. Cut each piece of squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and then cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Arrange on a baking sheet. Using your hands, toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then roast, stirring and flipping periodically, for 20 to 30 minutes, until tender and slightly caramelized. Remove from the oven and set aside.
3. Turn the oven down to 275°F (140°C). Stack the tortillas and wrap them tightly in foil. Place them in the oven to warm for up to 20 minutes before assembling the burritos.
4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the spinach and sauté, tossing frequently with tongs, until collapsed and tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Compress the spinach against the side of the pan with a spatula and pour out any liquid that collects.
5. Put the squash, spinach, black beans, queso fresco, cilantro, and jalapeños in a mixing bowl and mix gently until well combined.
6. Divide the mozzarella among the tortillas, using about 3 tablespoons of cheese per tortilla, then divide the squash mixture evenly among the tortillas. Roll into burritos, tucking in one or both ends if desired. Serve hot. To keep warm, wrap the burritos individually in foil and keep them in a 275°F oven until ready to serve.
LEFTOVERS: The assembled burritos are best eaten freshly cooked, but stored in an airtight container, the squash filling will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 minutes
TOSTADAS ARE SUCH a simple meal—but, oh, what a yummy one. In this version, corn tortillas are topped with homemade refried black beans and baked, then topped with cheese and a simple salad made from iceberg lettuce, avocado, mango, and radishes. There’s lots of room for improvisation. You can substitute refried beans made using your favorite recipe or, for an even easier dish, use canned refried beans. Also feel free to take whatever liberties you please with the salad. That said, the contrasts here—sweet mango, bitter radishes, crunchy lettuce, and creamy, cooling avocado tossed in cumin-spiked lime juice—make for an entrée that’s as flavorful and fresh as it is filling.
SERVES 42 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 onion, diced
2½ teaspoons ground cumin
4 cups cooked black beans, or two 15-ounce (425 g) cans, drained and rinsed
2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, seeded and finely diced, or ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt
8 corn tortillas
Juice of 1 lime
½ head iceberg lettuce, cut into thin strips
1 mango, cut into thin wedges
1 avocado, cut into thin wedges
6 radishes, cut into thin rounds
6 ounces (170 g) Monterey Jack cheese, grated (1½ cups)
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Heat the oil in a deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and 2 teaspoons of the cumin and sauté until the onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the beans, chipotles, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until heated through. Using a potato masher, mash the beans until the desired consistency is reached. If they seem too thick, stir in a bit of water, 1 tablespoon at a time.
3. Brush both sides of the tortillas with oil and arrange them on 2 baking sheets. Divide the refried beans on top of them, spreading them so that most of each tortilla is covered. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the tortillas are crisp.
4. Meanwhile, put the lime juice, remaining ½ teaspoon of cumin, and a big pinch of salt in a large mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Add the lettuce, mango, avocado, and radishes and gently toss until evenly coated.
5. After removing the tostadas from the oven, immediately scatter the cheese over the beans, using about 3 tablespoons cheese per tostada, followed by the salad. The tostadas are best served on the hot side of warm, while the cheese is still melted, 2 tostadas per person.
LEFTOVERS: The assembled tostadas are best eaten freshly cooked, but stored in an airtight container, the refried beans will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 30 minutes
By no means is a chunk of tofu my favorite thing to eat, and this is evidenced by the recipes in this book, where tofu doesn’t make an appearance very often. But I can’t argue with the fact that it is an easy, filling protein to put in the center of the plate.
You always hear how tofu is such an excellent protein because it’s a blank slate, absorbing the flavor of whatever it’s cooked with. This, unfortunately, is not my experience. I find that tofu does indeed have a flavor, and even if it’s mild, it isn’t especially pleasant. And while it’s true that marinades and sauces can turn tofu into something scrumptious, unless you’re careful that flavor will only penetrate the exterior of the tofu, leaving the interior tasting as unappealing as a few layers of wet cardboard.
One trick that will help is to press tofu before cooking to extract as much moisture as possible; this allows the tofu to absorb more of the marinade. You can further amp up the flavor quotient by creating as much surface area as possible. Rather than cutting tofu into large, fat slabs, try thin triangles or rectangles, as in the recipe for Vegetarian Banh Mi (page 149). If you’re adverse to cooking with tofu, as I’ve often been, you’ll be astounded by what a difference these two steps will make.
As to marinades, the possibilities are endless. Here are a few that I particularly like. Each makes enough for about 1 pound (450 g) of tofu.
¾ cup (180 ml) pineapple juice
¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
Whisk together the juice, soy sauce, sesame oil, and sugar. Add the neutral oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until thoroughly incorporated. If making ahead of time, store the marinade in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Rewhisk just before use.
1/3 cup (140 g) creamy, unsalted natural peanut butter
1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 bunch scallions, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon salt
Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. If the marinade is too thick, add hot water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to achieve the desired consistency. If making ahead of time, store the marinade in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Rewhisk just before use.
¼ cup (60 ml) balsamic vinegar
¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup (80 ml) neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
Whisk together the vinegar, soy sauce, mustard, and pepper. Add the oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until thoroughly incorporated. If making ahead of time, store the marinade in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Rewhisk just before use.
¼ cup (60 ml) Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ cup (120 ml) neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
Whisk together the mustard, honey, sugar, salt, and cayenne. Add the oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until thoroughly incorporated. If making ahead of time, store the marinade in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Rewhisk just before use.
1/3 cup (80 ml) fresh orange juice (about 1 orange)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger (see page 13)
1 serrano chile, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
Whisk together the orange juice, vinegar, ginger, serrano, and salt until combined. Add the oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until thoroughly incorporated. If making ahead of time, store the marinade in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Rewhisk just before use.
SEITAN CAN TASTE alarmingly meatlike, and for that reason I like it best when it has lots of brightly flavored vegetable company. These skewers, inspired by something similar at the Mexican restaurant Alma in Brooklyn, get it exactly right. The pineapple is the winning factor here; it’s juicy and candy-sweet, with its flavor balanced by the savory marinade, seitan, and vegetables. It’s perfectly fine to substitute tofu or tempeh, or even additional vegetables, for the seitan if you like. This makes a perfect meal when paired with a scoop of freshly cooked white or brown rice, drizzled with any leftover marinade.
SERVES 4¾ cup (180 ml) pineapple juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger (see page 13)
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (450 g) seitan, cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes
1 pineapple, cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes
2 bell peppers (any color or a combination), cut into 1-inch (3 cm) squares
1 red onion, cut into 1-inch (3 cm) cubes
1. Soak 8 wooden skewers in hot water for at least 20 minutes.
2. Put the pineapple juice, soy sauce, olive oil, sugar, garlic, ginger, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and whisk until thoroughly combined.
3. Thread the seitan, pineapple, bell peppers, and onion on the skewers, alternating on the skewers and beginning and ending with the seitan if possible.
4. Place the skewers in a shallow baking dish or resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over them and let stand for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours, turning periodically.
5. Heat a grill pan or sauté pan over medium heat. Alternatively, prepare a medium-hot grill and allow it to preheat for at least 20 minutes. Cook or grill the skewers, turning periodically, until the seitan has firmed slightly and has browned, and the pineapple and vegetables have developed some char marks, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Serve hot, 2 skewers per person.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly or stored in an airtight container, the cooked skewers will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 minutes
LETTUCE WRAPS HAVE always struck me as an ideal vessel for food. I love the idea that they provide a crisp exterior and a hint of flavor with no bulk or flavor-concealing density, I even like to eat veggie burgers wrapped in lettuce. In this recipe for lettuce cups, the filling is richly textured and features a savory assortment of meaty mushrooms, chewy smoked tofu, and crispy chow mein noodles. It makes for a dramatic, somewhat interactive dish to serve at the table, with everyone filling their own lettuce cups. It’s a fun meal to eat with friends.
SERVES 48 ounces (230 g) chow mein “stir-fry” noodles
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon chili paste, such as sambal oelek
1 head iceberg lettuce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
3 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
2 shallots, minced
1 pound (450 g) cremini or white button mushrooms, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger (see page 13)
8 ounces (230 g) smoked or baked tofu, cut into small cubes
½ cup (20 g) very thinly sliced fresh basil or coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
¼ cup (30 g) coarsely chopped roasted walnuts (see page 13)
1. Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Shake vigorously to remove as much excess water as possible.
2. Put the soy sauce, vinegar, and chili paste in a small bowl and stir to combine.
3. Cut the lettuce in half lengthwise. Cut out the stem and separate the lettuce leaves into 8 individual cups (reserve remaining leaves and the core for another use). Put them in a large bowl of ice water to make them crisp.
4. Heat the sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and sauté until just softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they release their liquid and it cooks off, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in the soy sauce mixture and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute, then remove from the heat. Stir in the tofu, basil, and walnuts.
5. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a serving dish and wipe out the sauté pan, then heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of neutral oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Divide the cooked noodles into 8 small piles and place as many in the sauté pan as will fit without crowding. Fry the noodles until browned and crisp on each side, 2 to 3 minutes per side.
6. Arrange the noodle cakes, filling, and lettuce cups separately at the table. To serve, place one noodle cake in a lettuce cup, then top with the mushroom-tofu filling.
LEFTOVERS: The assembled lettuce cups are best eaten freshly prepared, but stored in an airtight container, the filling will keep for up to 2 days.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
I ALWAYS wish I had more time to make desserts. So when I have people over to eat, I like to take it as an opportunity to make something sweet. While it can be fun to go all out and make a spectacular cake from The Cake Bible, it’s equally nice for dessert to be a less bombastic affair. Here are a few of my favorite recipes for desserts that aren’t terribly involved, all of them easy enough to throw together without too much advance planning.
THE INFORMALITY OF finger foods for dessert can be a relief for the cook as well as for guests. These truffles can be made days ahead of time; in fact, they’ll keep in the freezer for up to a month. Dust them with ground nuts, cocoa powder, superfine sugar, or whatever you please. It’s worthwhile to use a good-quality chocolate. With so few ingredients, it will make a noticeable difference.
MAKES ABOUT 30 TRUFFLES12 ounces (325 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
2/3 cup (160 ml) heavy cream
1 tablespoon brandy, cognac, or fruity liqueur
Pinch of salt
½ cup (50 g) cocoa powder, superfine sugar, confectioners’ sugar, or finely ground nuts for coating
1. Place the chocolate in a heatproof mixing bowl. Scald the cream, heating it in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until it just begins to bubble at the edges and an active steam cloud lingers over the surface. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and add the brandy and salt. Stir with a rubber spatula a few times, then let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk the mixture until completely smooth. If there are still lumps of unmelted chocolate, place the bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk constantly until smooth. Spread the chocolate into a 9 × 13-inch (23 × 33 cm) baking dish and refrigerate until just set, about 30 minutes.
2. Using a melon baller or 1-teaspoon measuring spoon, scoop up a mound of chocolate and, working quickly with your hands, shape it into a lumpy truffle. Set aside and continue until all of the chocolate has been shaped. Refrigerate, in a single layer, until the truffles are firm, about 30 minutes. The shaped truffles can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, and in the freezer for up to 1 month.
3. To serve, bring the truffles to room temperature. Put the cocoa or other coating in a small container with a lid. Add the truffles to the container in batches of 4 or 5 and gently shake until they’re fully coated.
THIS SIMPLE, CLEAN fruit dessert could hardly be less labor-intensive. Have the poaching liquid ready to go, and when your guests start to help you clear the dinner plates, put it over the heat.
SERVES 43 cups (750 ml) water
2 cups (475 ml) Riesling
¼ cup (60 ml) honey, or 3 tablespoons agave syrup
¼ cup (50 g) sugar
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
Zest of 1 orange, removed in thick strips with a vegetable peeler
4 pears
Ground cinnamon for dusting
4 mint sprigs for garnish
1. Combine the water, the wine, honey, sugar, cinnamon stick, cloves, and orange zest in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer.
2. Meanwhile, peel the pears using a vegetable peeler and once the poaching liquid is simmering, add the whole peeled pears. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes, until the pears are completely tender.
3. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pears from the saucepan to serving dishes. Transfer a few ladlefuls of the poaching liquid to a smaller saucepan, bring to a boil, and continue to boil until reduced by half and syrupy.
4. Serve the pears while still warm, drizzled with the reduced poaching liquid, dusted with cinnamon, and garnished with a sprig of mint.
YEARS AGO I bought a little stovetop espresso maker that looks something like a percolator. As someone who only enjoys the occasional espresso (and wouldn’t have the countertop space for an electric espresso maker anyway), I love putting it to use for this simple but always impressive dessert. Use decaf espresso beans if you or any of your guests are concerned about sleep.
SERVES 41 pint (475 ml) vanilla ice cream
½ cup (120 ml, 4 shots, 1 ounce each) hot espresso
Roasted hazelnuts, cashews, pecans, or almonds (see page 13), coarsely chopped, for garnish
Dark chocolate shavings for garnish
Divide the ice cream among 4 serving dishes. Pour 2 tablespoons of espresso over each dish. Garnish with the nuts and chocolate shavings and serve immediately.
CREPES CAN BE a fun interactive dessert, something for everyone to put together while digesting dinner. Prepare an array of fillings and let your guests customize their desserts. The crepes can be made up to a day ahead of time.
MAKES 8 CREPES1 recipe Basic Crepes (page 224), made with all-purpose or whole wheat flour, and with 2 teaspoons of sugar added to the batter
Fillings, such as cinnamon-sugar with flecks of butter, honey and mascarpone cheese, chunks of chocolate, thinly sliced fresh fruit, jam, or chocolate hazelnut butter
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. Arrange the fillings of your choice on the crepes, then fold the crepes into quarters. Arrange them on a baking sheet and dust generously with confectioners’ sugar. Bake in the top third of the oven for 8 to 12 minutes, until the sugar has caramelized, the fillings are heated through and the crepes are crisp. Serve immediately, dusted with additional confectioners’ sugar if desired.
FEW DESSERTS ARE as satisfying as a fruit crisp. This one would work for any fruit—apples, peaches, rhubarb, plums, or a combination—but nectarines are a special treat when they’re in season. The topping is nutty and textured, and it comes together very quickly with the aid of a food processor. You can assemble the dessert up to two hours ahead of time and then keep it in the refrigerator until ready to bake. This crisp is best served very warm, with a spoonful of fresh, gently whipped cream.
SERVES 6FOR THE FILLING
3 pounds (1.5 kg) nectarines or other fruit, sliced ½-inch (1 cm) thick (about 2 quarts total)
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of salt
FOR THE TOPPING
2/3 cup (90 g) all-purpose flour
2/3 cup (140 g) packed brown sugar
½ cup (70 g) roasted unsalted almonds
½ cup (50 g) rolled oats
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Butter an 8-inch (20 cm) square baking dish.
2. TO MAKE THE FILLING, toss the fruit with the sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt. Spread into the prepared baking dish.
3. TO MAKE THE TOPPING, combine the flour, sugar, almonds, oats and salt in a food processor. Pulse until most of the almonds are finely chopped, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the cold butter and pulse until it’s cut into small pieces about the size of peas, 25 pulses or so. Pour the topping over the fruit, spreading it evenly with your hands and gently pressing it into the fruit if needed.
4. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the fruit is tender and collapsed and the juices are bubbling around the edges. Let stand for at least 15 minutes before serving.
