THIS CHAPTER PROVIDES recipes for some of my favorite types of vegetarian entrées. Pizza, tarts, galettes, and crepes are essentially ways of serving vegetables in a vessel fashioned from dough or batter. They can be elegant centerpieces for festive meals, and since many of these dishes don’t need to be served hot, you can prepare them in advance and have them sitting on the counter or dinner table to deliciously foreshadow the meal ahead. These entrées can also be made in individual portions, allowing you to experiment with fillings or cater to specific appetites.
I’ve had wonderful parties where pizzas and crepes acted as interactive entrées. Homemade pizza is especially fun for kids; not only do they enjoy playing with dough, they can also help arrange toppings. I especially enjoy crepe parties with friends. I cook the crepes in advance, along with a smorgasbord of fillings, and then spread everything out on the table. Everyone assembles crepes to order and places them on baking sheets for a brief heating in the oven. These memorable, relatively easy gatherings break the mold of the standard dinner party, where guests are expected to show up, mingle, sit down to eat, and then head home.
Typical recipes for doughs and batters tend to rely on all-purpose flour. These recipes in this chapter, however, aim to capitalize on a few alternative flours by incorporating small doses of whole wheat, spelt, or buckwheat flour. I used to resist this kind of thing. With alternative flours being somewhat expensive, I was discouraged by recipes that called for such small amounts. Once in a while I’d buy a new flour for a recipe, but it would sit around because I didn’t know what else to do with it. Eventually, my outlook changed and I began to approach alternative flours with a more adventurous attitude, thinking that as long as I had it on hand, I might as well use it. Now these flours find their way into nearly every baked good I make: cookies, biscuits, breads, waffles, pancakes, flatbreads, you name it. A good place to start is by substituting an alternative flour for one-fourth to one-third of the all-purpose flour in a recipe. Using more than that can compromise the texture and usually requires making adjustments to other ingredients, amounts, or cooking times or temperatures. If this subject interests you, be sure to check out Kim Boyce’s excellent book on baking with alternative flours, Good to the Grain.
Vegan adaptations for these doughs and batters are relatively easy. In crepes, Ener-G egg replacer can be substituted for the eggs, and any kind of nondairy milk, such as rice, oat, soy, or almond milk, or even water or vegetable stock, can be substituted for the milk. In tart and galette doughs, nondairy margarine (such as Earth Balance) can be substituted for the butter with good results.
FOR A long time I believed it wasn’t worth the trouble to attempt homemade pizza. Good results seemed impossible without a proper pizza oven, which can reach the high temperatures needed to create the characteristic crusty-chewy crust. My early efforts yielded crusts more like loaf bread: thick, spongy, and overly yeasty. The recipe for pizza dough in this chapter, however, got me very excited about homemade pizza’s potential. It features a shortcut sourdough-style starter made with commercial yeast, in which a small amount of flour is mixed with yeast and water and left to ferment. From there, the recipe is traditional as far as home bread making goes. Here are a few helpful guidelines:
Get comfortable working with wet dough. This will improve almost all of your bread making, as too much flour makes any bread dense and dry. When kneading, use additional flour as sparingly as possible. I recommend that you knead with one hand and hold a dough scraper in the other, using the scraper to get underneath and flip the dough, as wetter doughs are more inclined to stick to the work surface.
Pizza needs to cook in a very hot oven, ideally on a pizza stone, a heavy ceramic or earthenware platter that comes in round, square, and rectangular shapes. My oven only goes up to 500°F, but if yours can go higher, turn it up all the way and give it the time it needs to preheat. If you have a pizza stone, put it in the oven prior to preheating so it will be as hot as possible when the pizza is placed on top of it.
Transferring an uncooked pizza onto the hot stone can be tricky. A pizza peel makes the job very easy, but few people own one. If you don’t have one, put the pizza on a rimless baking sheet or inverted rimmed baking sheet that’s been dusted with semolina or all-purpose flour and bake it on this surface for about 5 minutes, after which the pizza will be sturdy enough to quickly slide onto the stone for the remainder of its time in the oven.
If you don’t have a pizza stone, you can keep cooking the pizza on the baking sheet, or you can transfer it to the floor of your oven. Just be sure to wipe it down before preheating.
One of the nicest things about pizza, in my opinion, is the beauty of its imperfections: the charred splotches on the crust, the cheese that makes a stringy mess when you remove a slice, the rustic, informal scattering of toppings. Free yourself from any notion that your crust must be perfectly round or uniform in thickness. I don’t even recommend using a rolling pin to shape the pizza; I like to either stretch it out over my clenched fists or pat it out into a rough circle with my hands. But if you’re a person who leads a more orderly life, then by all means use a rolling pin.
THIS RECIPE IS endlessly adaptable. In this chapter it’s used in recipes for baked, grilled, and panfried pizzas, as well as calzones, but it’s also great for flatbreads, focaccia, or soft bread sticks. Feel free to substitute another whole-grain flour for the whole wheat; spelt and rye both make for flavorful variations.
MAKES ONE 14-INCH (35 cm) PIZZA, WHICH WILL SERVE 41 packet active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons, 21 g)
1/3 cup (80 ml) warm water, 105° to 115°F
¾ cup (90 g) whole wheat flour
2/3 cup (160 ml) room-temperature water
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for coating
1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour, plus more if needed
1. In a mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Stir in ¼ cup (30 g) of the whole wheat flour until it forms a tacky paste. Let stand for 20 to 25 minutes, until the surface is dimpled with air bubbles.
2. Add the 2/3 cup (160 ml) room-temperature water, along with the salt, olive oil, 2/3 cup (80 g) of the all-purpose flour, and the remaining ½ cup (60 g) of the whole wheat flour.
3. If using a stand mixer, mix with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed until the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes, and switch to the dough hook. Knead at medium speed adding more of the all-purpose flour as needed, until the dough is smooth but still somewhat sticky, 5 to 8 minutes. Resist adding more flour than needed. It should pull off the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom in a somewhat viscous mass.
If making the dough by hand, stir with a wooden spoon or spatula, adding more of the all-purpose flour as needed until the dough just holds its shape and can be turned out onto a kneading surface. The dough should be sticky, so I recommend kneading with one hand and using a dough scraper in the other to assist with flipping the dough; if you add too much flour the crust will be dense and not chewy. Knead until the dough is smooth but still somewhat sticky, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. (Note: To save the dough for use later, skip this step and see the box at right.) Rub a bit of olive oil over the dough, cover with a tea towel or plastic wrap, and let rest in a warm place until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
IF YOU’RE dividing pizza dough into smaller portions, you may want to refrigerate or freeze some of the dough. To do this, divide the dough into portions prior to the first rise and place the portions in individual airtight containers.
The dough won’t rise in the freezer, so if freezing, use a container that is as close to the size of the dough as possible. The night before you want to cook the pizza, rub a bit of oil on the dough, transfer it to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. About 1 hour before shaping the dough, move it to the counter-top and let rest at room temperature until doubled in size, then proceed with shaping as directed in the recipe.
Dough stored in the refrigerator will continue to rise slowly, so it should be placed in a container that is at least double the size of the dough. It can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. About 1 hour before shaping the dough, move it to the countertop and let rest at room temperature until doubled in size, then proceed with shaping as directed in the recipe.
AS PREVIOUSLY NOTED, it’s tricky for a home oven to mimic a proper pizza oven, which is typically large, sometimes domed, and always capable of very high heats. But crank your oven dial up as high as it will go and be sure to use a pizza stone, and you’ll have homemade pizza that certainly rivals any pizza you can order in.
SERVES 41 recipe Basic Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 200) Cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour for dusting Toppings of your choice (see pages 208–212)
1. Oil a baking sheet. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface that’s been lightly dusted with flour. Gently shape the dough into a 6-inch (15 cm) round. Place it on the oiled baking sheet and let rest until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes. Meanwhile, place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) or as high as it will go. While you’re waiting for the dough to rise, prepare your pizza toppings.
2. Dust another baking sheet with cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour. To shape the dough, pat it into a 14-inch (35 cm) round on the baking sheet. Alternatively, stretch the dough by hand, by draping it over your clenched fists and moving your fists in opposite directions; rotate the dough 90 degrees and stretch it in the other direction until you have a round that’s roughly 14 inches (35 cm) in diameter. Place the round on the cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Don’t worry if it isn’t perfectly round or perfectly even in thickness.
3. Place your toppings on the pizza and brush the edges of the crust with olive oil.
4. Bake the pizza, still on the dusted baking sheet, for 5 minutes, just until the bottom is firm. Using gloved hands and a large spatula, carefully transfer the pizza to the pizza stone. Bake for 5 to 7 more minutes, until the edges of the crust are golden and the bottom of the pizza is deeply browned.
LEFTOVERS: Pizza is best eaten freshly cooked, but wrapped tightly, it will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: About 3 hours
GRILLED PIZZA IS a delicacy for me, since I don’t often have access to a grill where I live in New York. When stretched as directed below, this crust is especially good on the grill. The thin patches of crust char into flavorful, crispy bites, and the thicker parts become plump and tender without being overly bready.
MAKES TWO 10-INCH (25 cm) PIZZAS; SERVES 41 recipe Basic Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 200) Cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour for dusting Toppings of your choice (see pages 208–212)
1. Oil a baking sheet. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface, lightly dusting the surface with flour if the dough is too loose or sticky to manage. Divide it into 2 equal portions and gently shape them into rounds. Set the rounds on the oiled baking sheet with at least 4 inches (10 cm) between them and let rest until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, prepare a very hot grill at least 30 minutes before grilling the pizzas so that you have very hot embers. While you’re waiting for the dough to rise, also prepare your pizza toppings.
3. Dust 2 baking sheets with cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour. Shape each piece of dough by draping it over your clenched fists and moving your fists in opposite directions, rotating the dough so that it stretches somewhat evenly, until you have a round that’s about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. Place the stretched dough directly on the hot grill.
4. Leaving the lid open, grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottom is browned and charred. Using a large spatula, flip the crust onto a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Shape the second crust in the same fashion as the first one, and place it on the grill. While it cooks, arrange your toppings on the cooked side of the first crust. With grilled pizzas, it’s best to go light on the toppings.
5. After removing the partially cooked second crust from the grill and transferring it to a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, close the lid and allow the grill to heat up again. As it heats up, arrange your toppings on the second pizza.
6. Quickly place the first topped pizza on the grill and close the lid. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the bottom is browned and charred, the toppings are heated through, and the cheese melted. Quickly remove the first pizza, place the second pizza on the grill, and cook in the same way. Serve immediately.
LEFTOVERS: Pizza is best eaten freshly cooked, but wrapped tightly, it will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: About 3 hours
THIS IS A great method for making smaller portions of pizza. I love to make it this way for friends, letting them shape and dress their pizzas (and even cook them, especially if you have an extra sauté pan) as they please. If cooking for just one or two, you can freeze portions of the dough as described in the box on page 203, making it easier to prepare homemade pizza whenever you wish. And if you forgo the toppings, except perhaps a drizzle of olive oil and a dusting of flaky salt and fresh herbs, cooking the basic pizza dough in this way makes a great flatbread.
1 recipe Basic Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 200) Cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour for dusting Toppings of your choice (see pages 208–212)
1. Oil a baking sheet. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface, that’s been lightly dusted with flour. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and gently shape them into rounds. Set the rounds on the oiled baking sheet with at least 4 inches between them and let rest until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes. While you’re waiting for the dough to rise, prepare your pizza toppings.
2. Heat a 10-inch (25 cm) skillet over medium heat. Lightly grease the skillet with only a thin film of olive oil; I find it’s best to use a brush or to wipe the pan with a paper towel that’s been moistened with olive oil. While you cook the individual pizzas, keep the remaining portions of dough covered with a tea towel to prevent them from drying out.
3. To shape the dough, pat each portion into an 8- to 9-inch (20–23 cm) round on the baking sheet. Alternatively, stretch the dough by hand, by draping it over your clenched fists and moving your fists in opposite directions, rotating the dough so that it stretches somewhat evenly. If panfrying multiple pizzas, pre-heat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
4. Lay the stretched dough directly in the pre-heated sauté pan and cook until the bottom begins to brown and even char in places, 4 to 6 minutes. Placing the uncooked side down, transfer the dough to a plate or baking sheet that’s been dusted with cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour, then cook the next round. Proceed with the remaining dough. Avoid stacking the partially cooked crusts on top of each other, as they will stick together.
5. Once all of the crusts are cooked on one side, arrange your toppings on the cooked side of the first crust and place it back in the pan, uncooked side down. Cook until the bottom is browned and even slightly charred, the toppings are heated through, and the cheese is melted. Repeat with the other crusts. To keep the pizzas warm as you continue cooking, transfer them to the preheated oven.
LEFTOVERS: Pizza is best eaten freshly cooked, but wrapped tightly, it will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: About 3 hours
CALZONES, OR PIZZA POCKETS, are more of a knife-and-fork affair than standard pizza, served with tomato sauce on the side. Of course, Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24) makes a good accompaniment. Rather than filling calzones with individual toppings, I like to cook a mixed filling, such as in the recipe for Three-Pepper Calzones (page 212). Like Panfried Pizza (page 206), calzones are fun to make with friends.
MAKES 4 LARGE CALZONES; SERVES 41 recipe Basic Whole Wheat Pizza Dough (page 200) Cornmeal, semolina, or all-purpose flour for dusting Fillings of your choice (see pages 208–212) 1 egg, beaten, optional
1. Oil a baking sheet. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface that’s been lightly dusted with flour. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and gently shape them into rounds. Set the rounds on the oiled baking sheet with at least 4 inches between them and let rest until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) or as high as it will go. While you’re waiting for the dough to rise, prepare your pizza toppings.
3. Dust a rimless baking sheet or an inverted rimmed baking sheet with flour. To shape the dough, pat each portion into a 7-inch (18 cm) round on the baking sheet. Lay each circle on the baking sheet and top with your fillings, just off center.
4. Fold the dough over the toppings and press to seal the edges together. Using the tines of a fork, press down all along the perimeter of the joined edge to ensure that it’s sealed. Proceed in the same manner with the remaining portions of dough, assembling them on a dusted work surface, such as a cutting board, if there isn’t adequate space on the baking sheet.
5. If desired, make an egg wash by whisking the egg with 1 tablespoon water. Brush the calzones with egg wash, if desired, then use a sharp paring knife to make a few slits across the tops of each calzone, which will allow steam to release as they cook. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until firmed slightly, about 8 minutes. Transfer the calzones to the pizza stone and continue cooking until browned and crisp, another 12 to 17 minutes.
LEFTOVERS: Calzones are best eaten freshly cooked, but wrapped tightly, they will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: About 3 hours
HERE ARE SEVERAL different topping ideas for pizzas—some classic combinations as well as a few new ideas. To turn pizza into a hearty vegetarian dish, it’s important to choose toppings that will add a nutritional punch, such as kale, lentils, or combinations of fresh vegetables, but that won’t weigh down the pizza. My favorite approach is to find a way to fashion leftover vegetables, or even leftovers like sauces or salads, into toppings, so in that vein I encourage you to improvise. The farmers’ market is also a source of inspiration, and my pizzas often showcase whatever vegetables are in season.
MARGARITA PIZZA GETS away with being so simple because every ingredient counts. The quality of the crust, sauce, cheese, and basil will result in a perfect pizza in which everything shines but nothing overwhelms.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA, 2 GRILLED PIZZAS, 4 PANFRIED PIZZAS, OR 4 CALZONES2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces (115 ml) fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
1 cup (240 ml) Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24) or other simple tomato sauce
½ cup (20 g) loosely packed fresh basil leaves, coarsely torn
Freshly ground black pepper or red pepper flakes
1. Combine the garlic and olive oil in a small bowl. Infuse for at least 20 minutes as you prepare to cook the pizza.
2. Spread the sauce over the crust, then arrange the cheese on top. Cook according to your preferred crust method. Just before serving, scatter the basil leaves over the pizza, drizzle with the garlic oil, and sprinkle with pepper or pepper flakes to taste. (If making calzones, drizzle the oil over the fillings before sealing the calzones.)
THIS IS A good pizza for skeptics of dark greens like kale—everyone I serve this pizza to is surprised when I report that kale is the dominating ingredient.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA, 2 GRILLED PIZZAS, 4 PANFRIED PIZZAS, OR 4 CALZONES2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 recipe Kale-Almond Pesto (page 26)
1 cup (225 g) fresh ricotta cheese
2 cups (280 g) cherry tomatoes, halved
½ medium red onion, very thinly sliced
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Combine the garlic and olive oil in a small bowl. Infuse for at least 20 minutes as you prepare to cook the pizza.
2. Spread the pesto over the crust, dividing it evenly among the crusts if making calzones or multiple smaller pizzas. Arrange dollops of the ricotta evenly over the pesto, followed by the tomatoes and onion. Cook according to your preferred crust method. Just before serving, drizzle with the garlic oil and season with the salt and pepper. (If making calzones, drizzle the oil over the fillings and add seasoning before sealing the calzones.)
THIS COMBINATION OF toppings is inspired by a favorite pasta dish, and the idea of making something like hummus from lentils. Make sure to fully caramelize your onions so that they are as sweet and rich as possible.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA OR 4 PANFRIED PIZZAS (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR GRILLED PIZZA OR CALZONES)¾ cup (120 g) green lentils
1½ cups water, or more as needed
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 large white onion, sliced into thin rings
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (5 g) fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed
Pulp or flesh from 2 heads roasted garlic, skins discarded (page 20)
6 ounces (170 g) feta cheese, crumbled
1. Combine the lentils and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes, until tender, adding more water if necessary.
2. Melt the butter or heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan and, using the method on page 22, caramelize the onion. Let stand until cool enough to handle.
3. Put the lentils, salt, pepper, parsley, and olive oil in a food processor and process until coarsely ground and spreadable, adding additional oil if the mixture seems too thick.
4. Spread the lentil puree over the crust, followed by the caramelized onions. Dot with the roasted garlic and feta cheese. Cook according to your preferred crust method.
“BREAKFAST” PIZZA ISN’T named as such to discourage you from eating it at dinner—though I have eaten a few versions at restaurants for brunch—but rather to contextualize its combination of flavors and ingredients. It literally is breakfast on a pizza.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR GRILLED PIZZA, PANFRIED PIZZA, OR CALZONES)1 large russet potato (about 12 ounces, 325 g)
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1 red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, diced
4 scallions, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (115 g) fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
2 ounces (60 g) Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)
4 eggs
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Prick the potato all over with a fork and wrap it in aluminum foil. Bake for 1 hour, until completely tender. Alternatively, microwave for 10 minutes on high power, until completely tender. Let stand until cool enough to handle. (The potato can be prepared a day or two in advance.)
2. Grate the potato using the large holes of a box grater, discarding the large pieces of potato skin that remain. Blot the grated potato dry with a paper towel.
3. Melt the butter and oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the bell pepper and sauté until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the scallions and sauté until just fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the potato, press it into the pan, and cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes. Break up the potato with a spatula, flip so that the uncooked part is face-down on the pan, and continue cooking for another 5 minutes, until uniformly browned. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper.
4. To assemble the pizzas, arrange the mozzarella on the crust, then scatter the Parmesan over it. Arrange the potato on top, then crack the eggs directly onto the pizza. Bake until the whites are set and the yolks are cooked to the desired doneness, 8 to 12 minutes. Garnish with the parsley and additional pepper.
THIS PIZZA IS bursting with the simple flavors of summer. I prefer using Mint-Walnut Pesto (page 26), but any variety will do. I especially recommend this pizza for cooking on the grill.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA, 2 GRILLED PIZZAS, OR 4 PANFRIED PIZZAS (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR CALZONES)2 small zucchini, cut into 1/8-inch (5 mm) rounds
Salt
1 cup (225 g) fresh ricotta cheese
1 ounce (30 g) Parmesan cheese, grated (¼ cup)
1 cup (140 g) cherry tomatoes, halved
1 cup (240 ml) Mint-Walnut Pesto (page 26; a double batch)
Big pinch of salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Lay out the zucchini rounds on a double layer of paper towels or a tea towel. Sprinkle with salt and let stand for 15 minutes. Blot off the moisture.
2. Spread the ricotta over the crust, then sprinkle with the Parmesan. Arrange the zucchini and tomatoes over the cheese, then dollop the pesto on top.
3. Cook according to your preferred crust method.
ANOTHER SIMPLE PIZZA, this one becomes more refined by using fresh, young potatoes from the farmers’ market. There’s no way to describe them except “potato-ey”—I’m an Idaho native, but when I started shopping frequently at farmers’ markets, the delicate flavor of a potato was a revelation.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BAKED PIZZA OR 2 GRILLED PIZZAS (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR PANFRIED PIZZA, OR CALZONES)2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound (450 g) small Yukon Gold or red bliss potatoes
6 ounces (170 g) Gruyère cheese, grated (1½ cups)
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Combine the garlic and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small bowl. Infuse for at least 20 minutes as you prepare to cook the pizza.
2. Cut the potatoes into rounds, slicing them as thinly as possible and using a mandoline if you have one.
3. Scatter the cheese over the crust and arrange the potatoes on top. Sprinkle the rosemary over the potatoes, then drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the potatoes.
4. Cook according to your preferred crust method. Just before serving, drizzle with the garlic oil.
THIS IS MY go-to filling for calzones—the peppers are bulky, textured, and hugely flavorful, and all the more delicious when the mozzarella cheese oozes out once you take your first bite.
MAKES ENOUGH FILLING FOR 4 CALZONES2 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1 large onion, sliced into thin rounds
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 jalapeños, minced (seeded for a milder heat level)
1 green bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch (5 mm) strips
1 red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch (5 mm) strips
¼ teaspoon salt
8 ounces (230 g) fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
1. Heat the oil in a wide sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring only periodically so as to encourage the onion to develop char marks, until just softened, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the oregano and garlic, stir briefly, then add all of the peppers. Cook, again stirring only periodically, until the peppers have softened on their exterior but still retain a bit of crunch, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the salt and taste for seasonings, then allow to cool.
2. Divide the cheese over the calzone crusts, distributing it slightly off center, then top with the pepper mixture. Proceed with the calzone recipe on page 207.
IF YOU’VE made piecrust, you’ll be a pro with tart and galette crusts, because the principles here are the same. It’s important to use restraint in breaking up the butter as you cut it into the dough; you want small morsels of butter to remain in the dough. Using ice-cold water helps prevent it from melting as you finish mixing the dough, and as the dough chills in the refrigerator, the butter will firm back up. Then, when you roll out the dough, the cold butter pieces will be flattened into long, thin disks that melt and leave hollows in the crust during baking. Those hollows are what makes the crust flaky.
If you use a food processor, making these crusts will be a breeze. But the dough can also be made by hand without too much fuss. In that case, it’s worth owning a pastry blender, a very inexpensive tool that’s much easier to use to cut in the butter than two knives or a fork, as some recipes suggest.
Just as with piecrusts, it’s often important to prebake tart shells. You’ll need pie weights or something similar for this step. Pie weights, which look like marbles with a dull finish, aren’t expensive, but they do violate one of my kitchen rules, which is to never buy anything that only has one use (for example, an olive pitter, lemon zester, or egg separator). I first heard about using pennies as pie weights on an episode of America’s Test Kitchen and haven’t looked back. You only need enough pennies to cover the base of the tart, so about a dollar’s worth will do. One caveat: Although a layer of parchment paper or foil prevents them from being in direct contact with the food, it’s a good idea to give them a quick wash first.
As far as fillings go, there are limitless options. I think the best fillings for tarts are those with a custardlike element, which will set during baking. For many recipes, fillings are arranged inside the tart, then the custard is poured over them. With galettes, on the other hand, the filling must be able to hold its own on top of the crust, as it’s only slightly contained by the edges of the crust, which are folded over the perimeter of the filling.
THIS IS AN all-purpose shell for tarts, quiches, and even desserts. (If using this recipe for a sweet tart, add 1 teaspoon of sugar when you add the flour.) As with pizza crust, making this provides a fun opportunity to experiment with alternate flours. The first step, making the dough and then refrigerating it, can be done up to a day in advance.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23 cm) TART SHELL1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/3 cup (40 g) whole wheat pastry flour or whole wheat, rye, or spelt flour
½ teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons (100 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes
3 to 6 tablespoons ice water
1. If using a food processor, put the flours and salt in the food processor and pulse until combined. Add the butter all at once and pulse 30 to 35 times, until the butter is cut down to lumpy morsels about the size of peas. Add 3 tablespoons of the water and pulse a few times. Watching for the mixture to come together, add additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time. When the mixture is uniformly moistened and a handful holds together without crumbling, stop processing. Spread a piece of plastic wrap on a work surface and pour the mixture into the middle of it. Lift the wrap by its corners and, working from outside the wrap, gently compact the dough into a squat disk about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap it tightly and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.
If making the dough by hand, put the flours and salt in bowl and whisk to combine. Working quickly with a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour until it’s broken into lumpy morsels about the size of peas. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of the water over the mixture and incorporate it using a spatula or your hands. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture just begins to gather into a mass. Using your hands, shape the mixture into a disk about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap it tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.
2. Lightly dust a rolling pin and a work surface with flour and place the chilled dough in the center. Roll the disk into a circle about 13 inches (33 cm) in diameter and about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick, rolling outward from the center of the dough and rotating the dough 90 degrees after each roll. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a dough scraper to lift it up and toss a bit of flour underneath. Don’t fret if the dough begins to tear at the edges.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
4. Drape the rolled-out dough over a rolling pin and carefully transfer it to a 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan. Gently tuck the dough into the pan without stretching it, then trim any excess. (You can do this by running the rolling pin across the rim of the tart pan.) Press the dough into the edges with your fingertips. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. (Note: At this point, the tart shell can be wrapped tightly and frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator before proceeding with the recipe.)
5. Prick the base of the shell all over with the tines of a fork. Place a piece of parchment paper over it, then fill with pie weights, dried beans, or pennies. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove the parchment paper and weights and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the bottom of the shell begins to brown. At this point, the tart can be filled and baked.
THIS RICH, EASY tart uses much less dairy than similar tarts and quiches do, thanks in large part to the humble cauliflower’s natural richness. And the cauliflower really shines here, with the backdrop of Gruyère cheese and leek and the final touch of scallions elevating and transforming the vegetable from a standby for crudité platters to something refined. This type of cauliflower dish will also be exactly what you’re craving when the vegetable is in season—in early fall, as a cold front starts to blow through.
SERVES 41 tablespoon butter
1 leek, white part only, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced, and cleaned (see page 13)
Pinch of sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) dry white wine
3 cups cauliflower florets (about 12 ounces)
2 eggs
1/3 cup (80 ml) cream or half-and-half
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
4 ounces (115 g) Gruyère cheese, grated (1 cup)
1 prebaked 10-inch (25 cm) tart shell, preferably homemade (page 214)
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C).
2. Heat the butter in a deep sauté pan or saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the leek and sugar, cover, and cook for 5 minutes to steam and soften. Uncover and cook until tender, 10 more minutes, lowering the heat if the leeks begin to burn. Stir in the wine and cauliflower. Cover and cook until the cauliflower is completely tender, about 10 minutes.
3. Transfer the cauliflower mixture, along with any liquid from the pan, to a food processor and process until smooth. Whisk the eggs, cream, mustard, salt, pepper, and flour together. Add the mixture to the food processor and pulse until combined. Add the scallions and half of the cheese and pulse a few times, just until distributed. Alternatively, puree the cauliflower with an immersion blender, then whisk in the custard mixture, followed by the scallions and half of the cheese.
4. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the base of the prebaked tart shell. Pour in the cauliflower mixture and spread it evenly with a spatula. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until set in the center. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly, this tart will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 1 hour
ONLY MAKE THIS simple tart in the summer, when succulent, perfectly ripe tomatoes are at their absolute peak. Inferior ones will disappoint. The cheese custard can be taken in a number of different directions. Sometimes I make this tart with a lesser amount of pungent, creamy blue cheese (about 2/3 cup) to excellent effect. And if you’re pressed for time, this tart is a good candidate for replacing the shell with frozen puff pastry. Allow the pastry to thaw in the refrigerator, then roll it out to a thickness of slightly less than ¼ inch (about 5 mm) and line the pan with it. It’s not necessary to prebake the puff pastry. This adaptation works especially well for individual tart molds.
SERVES 41 pound (450 g) ripe tomatoes, sliced ¼ inch (5 mm) thick
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 eggs
1 cup (225 g) fresh ricotta cheese
½ cup (120 ml) reduced-fat milk (1% or 2%)
A few grinds of black pepper
¼ cup (60 ml) pesto, preferably homemade (such as Basil-Almond or Mint-Walnut, see pages 25 and 26)
1 prebaked 10-inch (25 cm) tart shell, preferably homemade (page 214), or 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
8 to 10 perfect fresh basil leaves for garnish
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
2. Arrange the tomato slices in a single layer in a colander or on a cooling rack placed over a baking sheet. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and let sit for at least 10 minutes to drain.
3. Whisk the eggs, ricotta, milk, pepper, and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt together.
4. Pour the ricotta mixture into the tart shell, then arrange the tomatoes on top, overlapping if necessary. Dollop the pesto over the tomatoes. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, just until the filling is set. Scatter the basil leaves over the top and serve right away.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly, this tart will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
I WAS LATE to incorporate galettes into my repertoire, but I’ve been making up for lost time. With a galette you don’t have to press the dough into a tart shell, and you also don’t have that second chilling period, which shortens the prep time, making for a significantly more manageable weeknight meal. Fillings for galettes also don’t need to set up as do those for custard-style tarts; in this book I have recipes that utilize braised red cabbage and roasted Brussels sprouts, and in neither case are the fillings bound together with eggs.
MAKES CRUST FOR ONE 9 TO 10-INCH (23–25 cm) GALETTE¾ cup (90 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
¼ cup (30 g) whole wheat pastry flour or whole wheat, rye, or spelt flour
½ teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (85 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into
¼-inch cubes
2 to 4 tablespoons ice water
1. If using a food processor, put the flours and salt in the food processor and pulse until combined. Add the butter all at once and pulse 30 to 35 times, until it’s cut down to lumpy morsels about the size of peas. Add 2 tablespoons of the water and pulse a few times. Watching for the mixture to come together, add additional water, pulsing it in 1 tablespoon at a time. Stop processing as soon as the mixture is uniformly moistened and a handful holds together without crumbling. Spread a piece of plastic wrap on a work surface and pour the mixture into the middle of it. Lift the wrap by its corners and, working from outside the wrap, gently compact the dough into a squat disk about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap it tightly and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.
If making the dough by hand, put the flours and salt in a bowl and whisk to combine. Working quickly with a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour until it’s broken into lumpy morsels about the size of peas. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the water over the mixture and incorporate it using a spatula or your hands. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture just begins to gather into a mass. Using your hands, shape the mixture into a disk about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap it tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.
2. Preheat the oven as instructed in the recipe for the galette you’re making.
3. Lightly dust a rolling pin and a work surface with flour and place the chilled dough in the center. Roll the disk into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and between 1/8 and ¼ inch (5 mm) thick, rolling outward from the center of the dough and rotating the dough 90 degrees after each roll. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a dough scraper to lift it up and toss a bit of flour underneath. Don’t fret if the dough begins to tear at the edges.
4. Evenly spread your fillings over the crust, leaving a 1½-inch (4 cm) border. Fold the edge over the filling, pleating as needed. This is a rustic tart, so enjoy the imperfections. Proceed with the recipe.
HERE’S A WINTRY galette that makes a terrific centerpiece for a dinner party. Red cabbage strikes me as a maligned vegetable, overlooked in favor of its green counterparts or the smaller heads of radicchio. (Radicchio belongs to the chicory family, not the cabbage family, but I find its flavor and appearance similar enough that I think of the two as related.) Red cabbage is snappier than green and tastes less cabbagey—there’s less of that distinctive smell that I associate with fermentation—but it shares its nutritional perks. In this recipe, the apple fully dissolves into the filling, leaving behind just an orchard perfume. And my favorite cheese to use here is Forme d’Ambert, but any blue cheese you like will do. And because it’s easy to operate on autopilot when following a recipe, here’s a heads-up: When preparing the galette dough, you need to add a teaspoon of caraway seeds to the dry ingredients.
SERVES 42 tablespoons butter
½ medium white onion, diced
5 cups thinly sliced red cabbage (about 10 ounces, 280 g, or half a large head)
1 crisp, sweet-tart apple, such as Gala or Honeycrisp, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (120 ml) full-bodied red wine
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 recipe Galette Dough (page 218), with 1 teaspoon caraway seeds added to the dry ingredients
2 ounces (60 g) pungent, crumbly blue cheese
1 egg plus 1 tablespoon milk for egg wash, optional
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan or deep sauté pan over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the onion and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the cabbage, apple, salt, and pepper, tossing with tongs to evenly distribute the ingredients. Pour in the wine. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the cabbage is very tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the vinegar and continue to simmer, uncovered, until most of the liquid has cooked off, another 10 minutes or so. Let the mixture come to room temperature.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll out the dough as directed. Drape it over a rolling pin and transfer to the lined baking sheet. Pile the cabbage mixture in the center of the dough, leaving a 1½-inch (4 cm) border. Crumble the blue cheese over the cabbage. Fold the edges of the dough over the mixture, pleating as needed. If desired, whisk together the egg and the milk to make an egg wash, and brush it over the pastry.
4. Bake, turning the pan halfway through the cooking time, for about 25 minutes, until the crust is browned. Serve hot or warm.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly, this galette will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 1 hour and 15 minutes
ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH and Brussels sprouts are surprisingly compatible, and this is especially fortuitous because stalks of Brussels sprouts turn up at farmers’ markets just when tables are overflowing with winter squash of all shapes and sizes. The butternut squash has a brightness that’s tamed by caramel notes imbued during roasting, and its flavor neutralizes the brazen taste of Brussels sprouts, which many people take exception to. I tried this galette with creamier cheeses, like Roquefort and ricotta, and decided that the cheese here needs to be assertive but essentially aromatic, so I settled on Gruyère. A drizzle of olive oil and a spritz of lemon at the end give it a fresh, barely lingering tang for a perfect balance of flavors.
SERVES 41 small butternut squash (about 12 ounces, 325 g)
2 cups quartered Brussels sprouts (about 8 ounces,230 g)
2 tablespoons olive oil
A few grinds of black pepper
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
Pinch of cayenne pepper
3 ounces (85 g) Gruyère cheese, grated (¾ cup)
1 recipe Galette Dough (page 218)
Squeeze of lemon juice
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
2. Trim the ends of the squash and cut the squash in half where the narrow neck transitions into the bulbous bottom. With the flat surface on the cutting board, carefully cut the skin off in thin strips from top to bottom. Cut each piece of squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, then cut it crosswise into ½-inch (1 cm) slices. Put the squash in a mixing bowl, and add the Brussels sprouts, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the pepper, and a pinch of salt. Toss to combine. Spread in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until the squash and Brussels sprouts are tender but not mushy. Reduce the oven temperature to 375° (190°C).
3. Return the squash and Brussels sprouts to the mixing bowl. Add the thyme and cayenne. Taste for seasonings and add additional salt or pepper if necessary.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll out the dough as directed. Drape it over a rolling pin and transfer to the lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the cheese over the center of the dough, leaving a 1½-inch (4 cm) border. Pile the squash mixture on top of the cheese. Fold the edges of the dough over the filling, pleating as needed.
5. Bake, turning the pan halfway through the cooking time, for about 25 minutes, until the crust is browned. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the squeeze of lemon juice just before serving. Serve hot or warm.
LEFTOVERS: This galette is best eaten on the day it’s made, but wrapped tightly, it will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 1 hour
I’VE ONLY recently begun to get familiar with crepes. A first step is learning the pronunciation: Is it “crape” or is it “crepp”? According to the Merriam-Webster dictionary, it’s the former, but when I worked as a server at a French bistro, I’d be corrected no matter which way I said it. However you pronounce it, you’ll be pleased to discover what easy, versatile little vessels for vegetables they are. If you’re unfamiliar with crepes, the best way to describe them is as very thin pancakes folded or rolled around sweet or savory fillings. In Paris there are crepe carts parked throughout the city, the way that falafel and hot dog stands are scattered around Manhattan, and the crepes they offer are impossibly thin and filled with delicious things like Nutella, fruit, vegetables, cheese, or whatever you think to ask for.
One thing I love about crepes is that they can transform odds and ends lingering in the crisper into an impressive meal. In fact, my best dinnertime crepes have been inspired by leftovers. The crepes themselves can be used as a base, like a flat pancake, with sautéed vegetables scattered on top and a sauce drizzled over the top. Or you can fill them and then bake or panfry until crisp. They can also stand in for noodles in lasagna or tortillas in enchiladas. They can also double as dessert. (See page 165 for some guidelines on dessert crepes.) As you can see, once you have crepes in your repertoire, an easy, elegant meal will always be close at hand.
Some of my favorite dinner parties have revolved around crepes. Make the crepes in advance, stack them up on a plate, and, once they’re cool, cover tightly with plastic wrap. Then prepare a few fillings: caramelized onions (page 22) or Onion Marmalade (page 23); a platter of perfectly steamed or sautéed vegetables, such as asparagus, zucchini, mushrooms, or greens; and a couple of different cheeses, like feta, a nutty Gruyère or Gouda, or fresh goat cheese, which I like to pick up at the farmers’ market. Make a batch of Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24) for topping, and prepare to fry or poach a few eggs. Let your guests assemble their own crepes, placing the filled ones on a baking sheet to be heated in the oven.
Crepe pans, which are simply very shallow sauté pans, are relatively inexpensive and are widely available if you intend to make crepes often, but I’ve never owned them for the same reason that I don’t own pie weights: I don’t have room for single-use kitchen tools. If you have a nonstick skillet, you’ll have no problem making crepes.
THIS RECIPE IS suitable for savory as well as sweet crepes (see page 165). For dessert crepes, just add two teaspoons of sugar along with the dry ingredients (and, of course, don’t use vegetable stock in the batter). I recommend using a blender to make crepe batter because it turns the job into a one-minute task. You can whisk by hand if you wish, but do so vigorously and thoroughly, being sure to break up every lump of flour. Cooked vegetables, like spinach, sweet potatoes, or pumpkin, can be added to crepe batter, which makes for plumper crepes. Recipes for these variations appear after the main recipe, as do recipes for several savory fillings. The filling combinations I provide are engineered as weeknight dishes, cooked on the stovetop, folded into crepes, and served right away. But after assembling the filled crepes, you can certainly cook them in the oven if you like. Simply place them on a very lightly greased baking sheet and bake at 325°F oven for about 15 minutes, just until the crepe is crisp and the fillings are heated through.
MAKES 8 CREPES½ cup (120 ml) water, vegetable stock (page15), or milk
½ cup (120 ml) reduced-fat milk (1% or 2%)
2 eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter
½ cup (60 g) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (30 g) buckwheat, spelt, or whole wheat flour, or more all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
Butter or oil for cooking
Fillings of your choice (see page 225)
1. Put the water, milk, eggs, olive oil, flours, and salt in a blender in that order, with the wet ingredients on the bottom. Puree for 30 seconds to 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the chamber with a spatula once or twice along the way. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight. The batter should have the consistency of heavy cream. If it’s any thicker, stir in a additional milk or water 1 tablespoon at a time.
2. Heat a 10-inch (25 cm) nonstick sauté pan or seasoned skillet over medium heat and melt a very small amount of butter. Use a paper towel to spread it around and soak up the excess so the sauté pan is covered with only a very thin film of grease. Tilt the pan away from you and, using a ¼-cup (60 ml) ladle or measuring cup, quickly pour in a ladleful of batter, swirling the pan as you pour; the goal is to uniformly distribute the batter as quickly as possible. Cook until the edges begin to curl up, the bottom is slightly browned but still pliable, and the top side is set, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the crepe over (I do this with my fingers, but you can also use a thin spatula) and cook the other side until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Stack the cooked crepes on a plate until ready for use. If the crepes begin to stick to the pan as you continue cooking them, rub the pan with the paper towel used to soak up the excess grease.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly, cooked crepes will keep for up to 1 day in the refrigerator. Stored in an airtight container, leftover batter will keep for up to 2 days.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 45 minutes
SPINACH CREPES: Blanch, steam, or sauté 1 bunch of spinach (about 12 ounces, 325 g; see page 10), then squeeze dry. Or, to use frozen spinach, cook it in the microwave at 2-minute intervals on medium heat, stirring at each interval with a fork. Continue cooking until thawed, then drain and, once cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much liquid as possible.
If using whole frozen spinach, finely chop it. Add the spinach to the blender with the rest of the ingredients and proceed with the recipe.
SWEET POTATO OR PUMPKIN CREPES: Add ½ cup sweet potato or pumpkin puree to the blender along with the eggs and milk. Proceed with the recipe.
SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, AND GRUYÈRE CREPES, TOPPED WITH FRIED EGG: Sauté 8 ounces (230 g) of sliced cremini or white button mushrooms in 2 tablespoons butter until browned and the liquid released by the mushrooms has cooked off. Divide mushrooms among 8 crepes (preferably made with buckwheat or spelt flour), and add 2 heaping tablespoons caramelized onions (page 22) and 2 tablespoons grated Gruyère cheese per crepe. Fold or roll the crepes around the filling. Panfry the filled crepes in batches in a very small amount of butter or oil until the cheese is melted and the crepes are just crisp. Top with 1 fried egg per every 2 crepes and a sprinkling of salt and freshly ground black pepper.
ASPARAGUS CREPES WITH GOAT CHEESE: Steam 8 ounces (230 g) of asparagus until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Plunge into an ice bath to halt the cooking and preserve the color. Halve any fat spears lengthwise, then chop the asparagus into 1-inch (3 cm) pieces. Divide the asparagus among 8 spinach crepes (see left), then top with 2 tablespoons fresh goat cheese and 1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley per crepe. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fold or roll the crepes around the filling. Panfry the filled crepes in batches in a very small amount of butter or oil until the cheese is melted and the crepes are just crisp.
Sauté 1 bunch of spinach (see page 10), then chop it finely. Divide the spinach among 8 crepes (preferably made with whole wheat or additional all-purpose flour), then top with ½ scallion, thinly sliced, per crepe, salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Fold or roll the crepes around the filling. Panfry the filled crepes in batches in a very small amount of butter or oil until the fillings are heated through and the crepe is just crisp. Top each crepe with about 2 tablespoons warm tomato sauce, preferably Twenty-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 24).
THIS IS AN easy, three-part dish: make the crepes, prepare the filling (which requires minimal prep and is a one-pot job), and then assemble. The sweet potato combined with the heat from the curry spices makes for a very nuanced, filling dish that is a gorgeous centerpiece for the table. Using buckwheat flour in the crepes here makes for a slightly nutty contrast, whereas the sweet potato variation reinforces the sweet elements of the dish. This is also a great dish for buffets, because it’s excellent whether served warm or at room temperature.
SERVES 51 large russet potato (about 12 ounces, 325 g)
1 medium sweet potato (about 12 ounces, 325 g)
2 tablespoons neutral oil (canola, grapeseed, peanut, or vegetable oil)
1 medium red onion, diced
1½ teaspoons curry powder, preferably homemade (page 229)
1 teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup (240 ml) water
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
3 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
6 crepes, made with ¼ cup (30 g) buckwheat flour (page 224) or sweet potato puree (see page 225)
1. Using a mandoline or a steady hand with a knife, cut the potatoes and sweet potatoes into ⅛-inch (3 mm) thick rounds.
2. Heat the oil in a deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it just begins to soften and caramelize, 10 to 12 minutes, turning down the heat if the onion starts to burn. Stir in the curry powder, garam masala, coriander, cayenne, and salt. Add the potatoes, tossing to evenly coat them with the spices, then sprinkle the flour over the potatoes and again toss until evenly coated. Pour in the water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, give the dish a stir, then cover and cook until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat, allow the mixture to cool slightly, then stir in the cilantro and scallions.
3. When ready to serve, set aside the prettiest crepe to top the stack. Then choose the least attractive crepe and place it in the center of a serving platter or, if you plan to warm the dish, on a rimless baking sheet. Scoop up a heaping ½ cup, or rougly a fifth, of the potato mixture and spread it over the crepe, leaving about a ½-inch (1 cm) border. Place a crepe on top of the potatoes and press with your hands to level it off. Spread another ½ cup of the potato mixture over the crepe, and continue in this way until you have five layers of potatoes. Place your last, most beautiful crepe on top.
4. You can serve the crepe stack warm or at room temperature. If serving it warm, cover the assembled crepe stack with foil and place it in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 20 minutes. Carefully transfer to a serving platter and serve.
LEFTOVERS: Wrapped tightly, this dish will keep for 1 day in the refrigerator.
PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 35 minutes
CURRY POWDER is simply a spice blend. This may be an obvious thing to state, but it can be confusing when you see curry lined up alongside jars of bay leaves and dill in the spice section of the grocery store. Not only is it a blend, its composition varies greatly by country and region (and by kitchen within those countries and regions). What you buy at the store is usually a blend of warm spices like cinnamon and cardamom, chili for heat, and cumin and turmeric for earthiness (and color). It’s often bulked up with coriander, because it’s such an inexpensive spice. There are many good store-bought curry blends, and it’s worth sampling a few to find which you prefer or which might work best for certain dishes. Or even better, you could make your own! Spending an afternoon making a couple different spice blends is a fun group activity, at least for a food nerd like me. The following recipe is my basic curry blend.
MAKES ABOUT ¼ CUP10 black peppercorns
5 cloves
2 dried hot chile peppers (chile de arbol for hot curry; ancho chilies for mild curry)
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 tablespoons turmeric
Combine the peppercorns, cloves, chiles, cinnamon, star anise, and cumin seeds in a dry skillet over low heat. Toast, swirling the pan frequently, until very aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, add the mustard seeds, and grind until powdered; this may take several minutes. Sift out the larger pieces, then stir in the turmeric. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.
