Hana & East Maui

Hana

Haneoo Road Loop

Hana to Kipahulu

Kipahulu

Kaupo & Around

Road Trip Piilani Highway

Hana & East Maui

Why Go?

Rugged and remote, East Maui is the go-to spot for Mauians looking to get away from it all. Instead of golf courses and beach resorts, you’ll see a place that’s hardly changed in ages. Overgrown jungles, lonely churches and narrow roads to the coast – it's wild yet welcoming. In slow-moving Hana you’ll learn to talk story – l-o-n-g story – with people who take a personal approach to everything. You'll want more than a few hours here. If you keep going ‒ and you should ‒ you'll reach Haleakala National Park, followed by sleepy Kipahulu, which makes Hana look urban. Then it’s a wild drive on the Piʻilani Hwy to Kaupo, where the main street has one building. Finally you’ll disappear into miles of open country on the back side of Haleakalā: one spectacular drive. From beginning to end you’ll find off-the-grid farms, under-the-radar restaurants, secluded beaches and voices from the past.

When to Go

AHana never feels crowded, but the Road to Hana does get busy. Popular food trucks will have lines at lunch and top attractions get busier as the day goes on. Leave early for your day trip or spend the night in Hana to get a jump on the crowds.

AIn April Hana hosts the East Maui Taro Festival, the region's biggest party.

AHana is on the rainy side of the island, and you will encounter rain year-round – but it usually passes quickly.

AFor slightly lighter crowds, visit in Maui's off-season (April, May, September through mid-December).

Best Places to Eat

A Hana Farms Clay Oven Pizza

A Hana Burger Food Truck

A Thai Food by Pranee

A Surfin' Burro

A Shaka Pops

Best Scenic Views

A Hamoa Beach

A Puʻu o Kahaula Hill

A St Joseph Church

A Hana Ranch Restaurant

A Skyview Soaring

Hana & East Maui Highlights

1 Hamoa Beach Sunning and surfing on picture-perfect tropical shores.

2 Hana Farms Joining locals for delicious clay-oven pizza topped with produce fresh from the field.

3 Wailua Falls Ogling the most dramatic cascade on a drive full of drama.

4 Ono Organic Farms Tasting exotic fruit on a tour of an oh-so-local farm.

5 Puʻu o Kahaula Hill Hiking to a hilltop with sweeping views of Hana.

6 Hana Burger Food Truck Biting into a juicy grass-fed burger beside the Hana Hwy.

7 Kaupo Pulling off the Piʻilani Hwy to savor a photogenic view of green pastures, black lava and blue sea.

Hana

Heavenly Hana. Is it paradise at the end of the rainbow or something a little bit different? Due to its history and its isolated location at the end of Hawaii’s most famous drive, Hana has a legendary aura. But many travelers are disappointed when they arrive to find a sleepy hamlet, population 1235. But that is only because Hana takes more than an hour or two to understand.

Surprisingly, Hana does not try to maximize its benefit from the many day-trippers who arrive each afternoon. This is one of the most Hawaiian communities in the state, with a timeless rural character, and also home to many transplants willing to trade certain privations for a slow, thoughtful and personal way of life in a beautiful natural setting. Though ‘Old Hawaii’ is an oft-used cliché, it’s hard not to think of Hana in such terms. Slow down, spend a night or two and enjoy it.

History

It’s hard to imagine little Hana as the epicenter of Maui, but this village produced many of ancient Hawaii’s most influential aliʻi (chiefs). Hana’s great 14th-century chief Piʻilani marched from here to conquer rivals in Wailuku and Lahaina, and become the first leader of unified Maui.

The landscape changed dramatically in 1849 when ex-whaler George Wilfong bought 60 acres of land to plant sugarcane. Hana went on to become a booming plantation town, complete with a narrow-gauge railroad connecting the fields to the Hana Mill. In the 1940s Hana could no longer compete with larger sugar operations in Central Maui and the mill went bust.

Enter San Francisco businessman Paul Fagan, who purchased 14,000 acres in Hana in 1943. Starting with 300 Herefords, Fagan converted the cane fields to ranch land. A few years later he opened a six-room hotel as a getaway resort for well-to-do friends and brought his minor-league baseball team, the San Francisco Seals, to Hana for spring training. That’s when visiting sports journalists gave the town its moniker, ‘Heavenly Hana.’

Hana Ranch and the legendary Hana-Maui hotel (which changed hands many times) were the backbone of the local economy here for decades thereafter. In recent years, the hotel has been sold and transformed into Travaasa Hana. In 2014 the ranch section of Hana Ranch's land holdings, including its cattle operation, was sold to Hana Ranch Stewards LLC. The latter plans to add food production to the mix, with a focus on sustainable agricultural practices.

East Maui

1Top Sights

1Hamoa BeachF3

2Wailua FallsD4

1Sights

3Charles Lindbergh's GraveD4

4Huakini BayA5

5Koki BeachF2

6Nu'u BayA5

7St Joseph ChurchB5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Ono Organic FarmsD4

Skyview SoaringE1

5Eating

9Hana Burger Food TruckE2

Hana Farms Clay Oven PizzaE1

10Hana Fresh MarketE2

11Laulima FarmD4

7Shopping

12Hana FarmsE1

13Kaupo StoreB5

Transport

14Hana AirportE1

rBeaches

Hana Bay Beach Park is in downtown Hana. Hamoa Beach and Koki Beach sit alongside photogenic Haneoʻo Rd, which loops for 1.5 miles off the Hana Hwy just south of town.

Hana Bay Beach ParkBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7022; www.co.maui.hi.us/Facilities; 150 Keawe Pl; pc)

Croquet by the beach? Why not? Welcome to Hana's version of the town plaza, a bayside park where children splash in the surf, picnickers enjoy the view from the rocky black-sand beach and musicians strum their ukuleles. And others play croquet. When water conditions are very calm, snorkeling and diving are good out past the pier. Currents can be strong, and snorkelers shouldn’t venture beyond the headland. Surfers head to Waikoloa Beach at the northern end of the bay.

Koki BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Haneoʻo Rd; p)

This picturesque tan beach sits at the base of red cliffs with views toward tiny ʻAlau Island. Bodysurfing is excellent, as it's shallow for quite a distance, but a rip current has been known to sweep people out to sea if they go too far. Shell-picking is good along tide pools by the edge.

oHamoa BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Haneoʻo Rd; pc)

With its clear water, white sand and hala-tree backdrop, this famous crescent is a little gem; author James Michener once called it the only beach in the North Pacific that actually looked as if it belonged in the South Pacific. When the surf’s up, surfers and bodyboarders flock here, though beware of rip currents. When it’s calm, swimming is good in the cove.

Public access is down the steps just north of the hotel’s bus-stop sign; there’s parking for seven or eight cars opposite. Facilities include restrooms.

KAIHALULU (RED SAND) BEACH

You might hear rumors about this clothing-optional red-sand beach, which is tucked in a hidden cove beneath a sheer red cliff, all protected by a volcanic dyke that was created by an ancient fissure.

While unique, the beach and its access trail are located on private property. The steep trail is also narrow, crumbly and dangerous; there have been numerous injuries to hikers who have fallen here, with a few requiring an airlift out for medical care. Also, on the way to and from the beach, the trail runs near an old Japanese cemetery. There is evidence of disrespectful wear and tear to the site caused by careless hikers as they pass the cemetery grounds.

1Sights

Hasegawa General StoreHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8231; 5165 Hana Hwy; h7am-7pm; p)

Need cash? Or maybe some screws? Or how about a bottle of Jim Beam? Or Ben & Jerry's Half-Baked fro yo? The Hasegawa family has operated a general store in Hana since 1910. The narrow aisles inside the tin-roof store are jam-packed with a little bit of everything. And we mean everything, from hardware to produce to tourist brochures. This icon of mom-and-pop shops is always crowded with locals picking up supplies and travelers stopping for snacks and the ATM.

Wananalua Congregational ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8040; 10 Hauoli St, cnr Hana Hwy & Hauoli St)

On the National Register of Historic Places, this church – built in the 1840s – has such hefty walls it resembles an ancient Norman cathedral. The crumbling mausoleums in the cemetery, watched over by the draping arms of a massive banyan tree, are a poignant sight. The church and the courthouse are the only surviving structures from the 1800s in Hana.

Hana

1Sights

1Hana Bay Beach ParkC2

2Hana Cultural CenterC1

3Hasegawa General StoreC3

4Wananalua Congregational ChurchC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Hana BallparkC2

6Hana-Maui Kayak & SnorkelC2

7Luana SpaC2

8Puʻu o Kahaula HillA2

9Spa at Travaasa HanaC2

10Travaasa Hana StablesB3

5Eating

11Barefoot CafeC2

12Braddah Hutt's BBQC3

13Hana Ranch RestaurantB3

14Hana Ranch StoreB2

Hasegawa General StoreC3

15Ono Farmers MarketC3

16Shaka PopsC3

17Surfin' BurroC2

18Thai Food by PraneeC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Preserve BarC2

7Shopping

Hana Coast GalleryC2

Hana Cultural CenterMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8622; www.hanaculturalcenter.org; 4974 Uakea Rd; donation $3; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; p)

This down-home museum displays some interesting local artifacts. The best is an entire three-bench courthouse (c 1871). Although it looks like a museum piece, this tiny court is still used on the first Tuesday of each month when a judge shows up to hear minor cases, sparing Hana residents the need to drive all the way to Wailuku to contest a traffic ticket. Original paintings of Teddy Roosevelt and Admiral Dewey are a blast from the past.

Opening hours seem to be irregular, and the museum is not always open as posted.

Hana Community CenterLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7022; www.co.maui.hi.us/Facilities; 5091 Uakea Rd; pc)

Anchors the town park, which has a baseball field, tennis courts and a playground, all behind Travaasa Hana.

2Activities

oSkyview SoaringGLIDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-344-9663; www.skyviewsoaring.com; Hana Airport; 30min/1hr $160/300; hby reservation)

Haleakalā has excellent soaring conditions, and a sailplane is a unique, rewarding and safe way to see the mountain. After he cuts the engine, experienced pilot Hans Pieters will fly over the crater (weather permitting) and let you fly too, before gliding silently back to Hana Airport.

Call in advance for a reservation, or try your luck and visit the airport. Hans has clearly had his own share of luck, as he is one of the few people to have survived being struck by a propeller.

Puʻu o Kahaula HillHIKING

(Lyon’s Hill; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hana Hwy)

This paved walkway up Puʻu o Kahaula Hill, behind the Travaasa Hana parking lot (take the small gate in the left corner), makes for a fine 30-minute round-trip walk. It leads to Hana’s most dominant landmark, a tasteful memorial to former Hana Ranch owner Paul Fagan: like a mountaintop heiau with a huge cross. All of Hana is laid out below.

Midway up the walkway you’ll see a signed trail going off to your left. This leads to Koki Beach (2 miles).

Spa at Travaasa HanaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %888-820-1043; www.travaasa.com; 5031 Hana Hwy, Travaasa Hana; 1hr lomilomi massage $175; h9am-7pm)

If the long drive to Hana has tightened you up, this posh spa can work out the kinks with lomilomi (traditional Hawaiian massage). While nicely laid out, and big enough for an army, the rooms are a bit clinical.

Luana SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8855; www.luanaspa.com; 5050 Uakea Rd; 1hr massage/scrub/facials from $80/100/85)

From a papaya pineapple scrub to a nourishing noni wrap, treatments embrace local ingredients and traditions. Offers treatments in a secluded yurt on Kaʻuiki Hill, opposite Hana Ballpark. Spa treatments can be combined with an overnight stay in the yurt ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8855; www.luanaspa.com; 5050 Uakea Rd; d $130; W).

Hana BallparkTENNIS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7022; www.co.maui.hi.us/Facilities; cnr Uakea Rd & Hauoli St; hsunrise-sunset; c)

Offers very nice public tennis courts and a playground for kids.

2Walking Tour
Hana Walk

Start Hana Cultural Center

End Hana Bay Beach Park

Length 2.5 miles, one hour

Artifacts at the 1Hana Cultural Center spotlight Old Hawaiian customs, with fishing tools and crafts on display. Step into the tiny 1871 courthouse here to learn about the devastating tsunami that hit northern Maui and Hana in 1946, killing 14 people and destroying 77 homes. The adjacent Kauhale Village replicates the compound of an ancient Hawaiian chieftain.

From here, follow Uakea Rd south, crossing Kiawe Pl. A sign reading 'Thai Food' on your left marks the driveway to 2Pranee's beloved Thai food truck. You'll want to come back for her fresh-fish curries. On your right, the back lawn of 3Travaasa Hana unfurls in well-manicured glory, merging seamlessly with the town's playing fields. The Hana Community Center is just ahead on your left. At the end of the block turn right onto Hauoli Rd, which divides Travaasa Hana. The resort's gorgeous seafront cottages are on your left; to your right a row of suites flanks the broad lawn. Watch for golf carts scooting between the two sections.

The simple but eye-catching 4Wananalua Congregational Church, built in the 1840s, anchors the corner of Hauoli Rd and the Hana Hwy. Cross the highway and walk toward the stone wall surrounding the resort's parking lot. Open the gate to follow the half-mile trail to the top of 5Puʻu o Kahaula Hill, also known as Lyon's Hill. It's topped by a large cross. If you get the right mix of sun and rain clouds, the pastures here glow a rich hue of green. At the top of the hill, stone benches and tiki torches surround the cross, a simple but powerful memorial to former Hana Ranch owner Paul Fagan. Enjoy the view of Hana and Hana Bay.

Return the way you came and cross the Hana Hwy. A sidewalk to the left leads through a small garden before arriving at 6Hana Coast Gallery, home to high-quality Hawaiian-made art. From here, walk carefully along the shoulder of Kiawe Pl down to 7Hana Bay Beach Park. Grab a seat and savor the view of the tranquil sea.

TTours

Hana-Maui Kayak & SnorkelCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7711; www.hanabaykayaks.com; Hana Beach Park; snorkel trip adult/child under 11yr $99/50; c)

If you’re an inexperienced snorkeler, or want to snorkel out beyond Hana Bay, then Kevin Coates is your man. You’ll paddle beyond the pier in Hana Bay and sample the reef before rounding the corner into open sea. Kevin’s been doing this since 1995, so has an endless number of stories to keep you entertained.

Travaasa Hana StablesHORSEBACK RIDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-5276, reservations 808-359-2401; www.travaasa.com; 1hr ride $60; htours 9am & 10:30am)

Enjoy a gentle trail ride through pastures and along Hana’s black-lava coastline. Riders must be at least nine years old. Open to nonguests; book at the front desk.

zFestivals & Events

oEast Maui Taro FestivalCULTURAL

(www.tarofestival.org; hApr)

Maui’s most Hawaiian town throws its most Hawaiian party. If it’s native, it’s here – a taro pancake breakfast, poi making, hula dancing and a big jamfest of Hawaiian music. Held on the last weekend in April, it’s Hana at its finest. Book accommodations well in advance.

Hana Canoe RegattaSPORTS

(www.co.maui.hi.us/Facilities; Hana Bay Beach Park; hApr)

Outrigger canoes race out to sea in April, marking the start of canoe season.

Hana Surfing ClassicSURF MEET

(www.mauisurfohana.org; hSep)

Annual amateur surfing contest held at Koki Beach in mid-September.

THE BEST LOCAVORE DINING

A Ono Organic Farms

A Hana Farms Clay Oven Pizza

A Hana Fresh Market

A Hana Burger Food Truck

A Laulima Farm

5Eating

oThai Food by PraneeTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5050 Uakea Rd; meals $10-15; h10:30am-4pm)

Hana’s ever-popular Thai lunch is served from an oversized mobile food truck surrounded by picnic tables. Step up to the counter for a large and tasty meal, including fiery curries with mahimahi and fresh stir-fried dishes. Get there early for the best selection. Located opposite Hana Ballpark.

oShaka PopsICE CREAM$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shakapopsmaui.com; ice pops $4.75; h11am-4pm Sun-Fri)

A friendly shaka wave greets travelers passing this happy cart, where frozen treats-on-a-stick come in fresh, tropical flavors. Locally made in small batches, they taste great and are definitely worth a lick. Look for the cart in front of the Hana Ranch Center. Life is a little brighter while slurping a Cocoa Hana Banana popsicle.

Hana Burger Food TruckBURGERS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-268-2820; https://hanaranch.com; 5670 Hana Hwy; mains $12-16)

What's that flash of silver on the hill, surrounded by a gorgeous field of green? If you're driving south from Hana and you're hungry, the new burger truck from Hana Ranch might be the gate to heaven. Grass-fed burgers from the ranch, picnic tables scattered across a pasture, and Hamoa Beach down the road. It doesn't get much better.

The paniolo burger comes with caramelized onions and a papaya BBQ sauce.

Surfin' BurroMEXICAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hana Hwy; mains $4-8; h8am-7pm)

Tacos? In Hana? Yep, and they're darn good too. Also serves breakfast burritos and fresh-made salsa. Look for the orange food truck parked between the Hotel Travaasa and Hasegawa General Store.

Braddah Hutt’s BBQBARBECUE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hana Hwy; meals $8-15; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri)

This place is like a BBQ at your neighbor's house. Here, diners sit on folding chairs under a canvas awning while an extended family cooks away over gas grills. Favorites are the barbecued chicken and the fish tacos. Expect a crowd at noon, and don’t take the closing time too seriously: it shuts down when the food runs out.

Barefoot CafeAMERICAN, HAWAIIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-446-5732; Hana Beach Park; breakfast $7-10, lunch $7-14; hbreakfast 7am-10am, lunch 11:30am-5pm)

Hana Beach Park’s fast-food grill serves burgers and hot dogs as well as Hawaiian favorites like an ahi poke (seasoned raw fish) bowl and plate lunches. Nearby tables make for great beach-watching.

Ono Farmers MarketMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7779; www.onofarms.com; Hana Hwy; h10am-6pm)S

This fruit stand is the place to pick up Kipahulu-grown coffee, jams and the most incredible array of fruit, from papaya to rambutan. Look for it in the parking lot just south of the gas station.

Hana Fresh MarketHEALTH FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7515; www.hanahealth.org; 4590 Hana Hwy; mains $10-12; h7am-2pm Mon-Fri)

This roadside stand in front of Hana Health sells organic produce grown on-site and healthy takeout plates featuring locally caught fish. Smoothies and yogurt bowls are also for sale.

Hasegawa General StoreSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8231; 5165 Hana Hwy; h7am-7pm)

This iconic mom-and-pop shop, with groceries and, well, a little bit of everything, has been a local fixture for a century. Has an ATM.

Hana Ranch StoreSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8261; 1 Mill St; h6am-7:30pm)

Groceries and liquor.

oHana Farms Clay Oven PizzaPIZZA$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7553; www.hanafarmsonline.com; 2910 Hana Hwy; pizza $18-20; h4-8pm Fri & Sat)S

Located behind the Hana Farms stand, this little gem is the local choice on Friday and Saturday nights. Gourmet pizzas with toppings sourced from the farm emerge from clay ovens piping hot. Gas lamps light picnic tables beneath thatched roofs. And the takeaway pizza box is a folded palm leaf – a Hana classic. We hear plans are afoot to open up on more nights.

Pre-order by phone to avoid waiting.

Hana Ranch RestaurantAMERICAN, HAWAIIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-5280; Mill St, Hana Ranch Center; mains $17-32; h11am-8:30pm)

The wall of ukuleles is perfect for an Instagram photo at this revamped restaurant, one of a handful of dinner options in Hana. Enjoy the view of the ocean from inside or from the patio. Serves American and Hawaiian fare.

And to clear up any confusion – the Hotel Travaasa owns this restaurant and its name. The actual Hana Ranch runs the burger truck down the road, which opened in 2016, and Hana Provisions in Pa'ia, which opened in 2015.

AGRICULTURAL ZONING

One of the keys to understanding Hana is contained in the local zoning regulations. In order to preserve Hana from development, the vast majority of properties are zoned agricultural. As a result, hardly anyone has the right to erect a commercial building. Consequently, almost all restaurants, and some other businesses, inhabit temporary structures, and sometimes hysterically so. You’ll find them under thatched huts, tents, and great blue tarps. Ice-cream trucks serve as semi-mobile kitchens. Technically, many of these businesses are still illegal, but as long as they benefit the community, no one cares. The deserted mini-mall down the road from Hasegawa Store bears witness to how effective this informal system can be.

For visitors, the upshot is this: don’t be afraid to eat under a blue tarp. Hana’s many temporary structures are actually part of its charm.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Preserve BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8211; www.travaasa.com; 5031 Hana Hwy, Travaasa Hana; hrestaurant 11:30am-9pm, bar till later)

When it comes to Hana nightlife, this is the only game in town. Maui beers, locally inspired cocktails and farm-to-table bar fare are on offer. Local musicians perform Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday nights, accompanied by hula dancers. Come when there's live music, otherwise the vibe can be eerily quiet and slow-paced.

7Shopping

oHana Coast GalleryARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8636; www.hanacoast.com; 5031 Hana Hwy; h9am-5pm)

Even if you’re not shopping, visit this gallery at the northern side of Travaasa to browse the museum-quality wooden bowls, paintings and Hawaiian featherwork from about 40 different Hawaii artists.

Hana FarmsFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hanafarmsonline.com; 2910 Hana Hwy; h8am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat)

This small 7-acre farm grows a large variety of tropical fruits, flowers and spices, and transforms them into interesting products. Its well-done roadside stand offers banana breads, exotic fruit preserves, tropical hot sauces, island candies, coffee and spices. A great place to find a unique and tasty gift. The ginger lime soda is refreshing.

May close at 6pm Sunday to Thursday in summer.

VOLUNTEER ON AN ORGANIC FARM

There are so many organic farms wanting volunteer labor in Hawaii that Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF), an organization that puts volunteers and organic farms together globally, runs a special Hawaii operation. In East Maui Hana Farms and Ono Organic Farms are both sponsors, among others. For a full list of opportunities, see www.wwoofhawaii.org.

8Information

Hana Ranch Center (Mill Rd) is the commercial center of town.

Bank of HawaiiBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8015; www.boh.com; Mill St, Hana Ranch Center; h3-4:30pm Mon-Thu, 3-6pm Fri)

No ATM.

Hana HealthMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8294; www.hanahealth.org; 4590 Hana Hwy; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 7am-noon & 2-6pm Thu, 8am-noon Sat)

At the northern side of town. Physicians on-call for emergency care 24/7.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8258; www.usps.com; 1 Mill St, Hana Ranch Center; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Around

EnterpriseCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-1511; www.enterprise.com)

Travaasa Hana has a very small fleet of cars.

Hana AirportAIRPORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-4861; www.hawaii.gov/hnm; Alalele PL)

There are twice-daily flights from Kahului to this small airport (and return) with Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com), cutting a two-hour drive to a 20-minute flight.

Hana GasGAS STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7671; cnr Mill Rd & Hana Hwy; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

Haneoʻo Road Loop

Author James Michener was so taken by Hamoa Beach along this 1.5-mile scenic loop drive that he compared it to the South Pacific. To see what tickled him, travel south from Hana on the Hana Hwy and turn left onto Haneoʻo Rd just before the 50-mile marker.

At the base of a red cinder hill, less than a half-mile from the start of the loop, the chocolate-brown sands of Koki Beach attract local surfers. The offshore isle topped by a few coconut palms is ʻAlau Island, a seabird sanctuary. Incidentally, those trees are a green refreshment stand of sorts, planted by Hana residents to provide themselves with drinking coconuts while fishing from the island.

A little further is Hamoa Beach, whose lovely gray sands are maintained by Travaasa Hana but are open to all. The surf here is popular with surfers and boogie boarders. Watch for riptides if you decide to take a dip. Dr. Beach named Hamoa one of the top 10 beaches in the US in 2015.

Hana to Kipahulu

The lush drive south from Hana to Kipahulu brims with raw natural beauty. Between its twists and turns, one-lane bridges and drivers trying to take in all the sights, it’s a slow-moving 10 miles, so allow yourself a half-hour just to reach Kipahulu.

Along the way you’ll pass ʻOheʻo Gulch, your entry point to the Kipahulu section of Haleakalā National Park. This is the undisputed highlight of the drive, offering fantastic falls, cool pools and tropical paths. The area can experience flash floods, so the Park Service does not recommend swimming in the pools. Note: the rest of the park cannot be accessed from here by car.

The tiny community of Kipahulu, which hides estates and organic farms behind its lush facade, hugs the Hana Hwy 1 mile south of the park.

oWailua FallsWATERFALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Before you reach Kipahulu, you’ll see orchids growing out of the rocks, and jungles of breadfruit and coconut trees. Around 0.3 miles after the 45-mile marker, you’ll come upon the spectacular Wailua Falls, which plunge a mighty 100ft just beyond the road. There are usually plenty of people lined up snapping photos.

Kipahulu

It’s hard to imagine, but this sedate community was once a bustling sugar-plantation town. After the mill shut down in 1922, most people left for jobs elsewhere. Today, mixed among modest homes, organic farms and back-to-the-landers living off the grid, are a scattering of exclusive estates, including the former home of famed aviator Charles Lindbergh.

1Sights

Charles Lindbergh’s GraveCEMETERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Palapala Hoʻomau Congregational Church; p)

Charles Lindbergh, the first man to fly across the Atlantic Ocean, moved to remote Kipahulu in 1968. After being diagnosed with terminal cancer, he decided to forgo treatment on the mainland and lived out his final days here. Following his death in 1974, Lindbergh was buried in the graveyard of Palapala Hoʻomau Congregational Church. The church is also noted for its window painting of a Polynesian Christ draped in the red-and-yellow feather capes of Hawaii’s highest chiefs.

Lindbergh’s grave is a simple granite slab laid upon lava stones in the yard behind the church. The epitaph is a quote from the Bible: ‘If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea.’ Walk seaward and you’ll find a viewpoint aimed at those uttermost parts.

To find the church, turn left 350yd south of the 41-mile marker and follow the road a short distance to the church, which is at the end of a long driveway on the left.

CHARLES LINDBERGH: THE LONE EAGLE

In 1927, at the age of 25, Charles Lindbergh became the first man to fly across the Atlantic Ocean, navigating Spirit of St Louis from Long Island to Paris in 33½ hours. Six others had previously died in the attempt. His success brought him instant global fame.

In 1932 tragedy struck, when the Lindberghs' young son was kidnapped and murdered. In the wake of unrelenting press coverage, Lindbergh and his American wife secretly fled to Europe, where they lived until returning to America in 1939. In the meantime Lindbergh helped the US military by providing reports on the growing capabilities of German aircraft.

Lindbergh later traveled frequently to Europe, where he built a secret double life, fathering seven children with three different women in Germany and Switzerland, two of whom were sisters. In total, he had four different families at once. None of the children knew their half-siblings existed until well after his death.

Lindbergh’s last years were spent in Kipahulu, where he retreated from the world almost entirely. Spirit of St Louis now hangs in the National Air & Space Museum in Washington DC, a fitting monument to a very transatlantic life.

TTours

oOno Organic FarmsFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-7779; www.onofarms.com; Hana Hwy; tours adult/child under 10yr $35/free; htours 1:30pm Mon-Fri)

This fascinating 90-minute tour of a wildly exotic business begins with a delicious tasting of tropical fruit. The variety is amazing: ever tried Surinam cherries, rambutan, red bananas, santol or jaboticaba? The tour then heads into the fields of the 300-acre farm, of which 70 acres are planted.

The farm is well hidden on the inland side of the road just south of the national park; look for ‘Ono’ on the mailbox. If you can’t make it here, sample the goods at Ono Farmers Market in Hana.

5Eating

Laulima FarmMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.laulimafarm.com; Hana Hwy; h9am-5pm)

Pull over for hand-roasted coffee, veggies and fruit, fresh off the adjoining 13-acre farm. Located on Hana Hwy, between the 40- and 41-mile markers.

Kaupo & Around

1Sights

Kaupo StoreFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-248-8054; Piʻilani Hwy; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Sells snacks and drinks. It’s worth popping inside just to see the shelves, which are filled with vintage displays, including a camera collection dating to 1911. Cash only.

St Joseph ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 33622 Piʻilani Hwy)

The church, established by Catholic missionaries in the 19th century, celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2012. The church offers a noon mass the fifth Sunday of the month in months with five Sundays. You can confirm dates at https://friendsofstjoseph-kaupo.org. Visitors are welcome to respectfully stroll the church grounds and historic cemetery.

The church is located between mile markers 33 and 34.

5Eating

Bully’s BurgersBURGERS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-268-0123; www.triplelranchmaui.com/Bully_s_Burgers.php; 15900 Piʻilani Hwy, Triple L Ranch; burgers $10; h11am-6.45pm Wed-Sun)

You’ve reached the end of the road. Or the beginning, if you wish. And what do you find but a burger shack – and we mean shack – decorated with cow skulls. No, Bully’s has no Michelin stars, just one heck of a burger, thanks to the beef from Triple L Ranch and a few surprising twists, like the spicy chipotle sauce.

Located about 4 miles past Maui Wine – or the end of the road from Hana. Before making a special trip, call to confirm it's open.

Road Trip
Pi’ilani Highway

Spectacular road trip taking you from lush jungle to crashing sea

Start Kipahulu

End Maui Wine, ʻUlupalakua

Length 25 miles; two hours

This spectacular coastal drive starts out in lush jungle, with snaking bends through numerous gulches. Once it enters the dry side of the island, the road breaks out into magnificent wide-open scenery, from the crashing sea to the volcano above. And hardly anyone is on it. There are no gas stations or other services along the way, so stock up and fuel up beforehand.

The untamed Piʻilani Hwy (Hwy 31) is also known as the Back Road to Hana. It travels 25 ruggedly scenic miles between Kipahulu and ʻUlupalakua, skirting the southern flank of Haleakalā. Keep your camera handy.

Leaving 1Kipahulu you'll drive beneath intimidating – and very crumbly – sheer cliffs, fortunately covered in protective chain. The Piʻilani Hwy officially starts at the 2Kalepa Bridge, near mile marker 38.5. The drive's most hair-raising bend comes a short distance later, just after the roadside stand selling 'spring-chilled coconutz.' Drive slowly and honk. It's a tight one-way turn between a cliff and the sea – with no railings. You may have to back up if you meet another car. And yes, it's as scary as it sounds.

The road remains tight and twisty and the pavement soon gives way to short dirt stretches, which add a bit of bumpiness to your drive. The open side of Haleakalā Crater becomes visible and a mile later you'll enter Kaupo. This scattered community is the stomping ground of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), many of them fourth-generation ranch hands working at Kaupo Ranch.

As the only lowlands on this section of coast, Kaupo was once heavily settled and is home to several ancient heiau and two 19th-century churches. Today there is one commercial venture here, the 3Kaupo Store, just beyond mile marker 35. Look for the colorful painted sign.

A mile later 4St Joseph Church (1862) appears on the left. With its mountain backdrop, this is Kaupo’s prettiest site, and prime for photography. Look for rainbows on cloudy days. From here you can see enormous waterfalls through Kaupo Gap, the great gash in the side of majestic Haleakalā. If you’re passing through on Sunday you may hear singing in Hawaiian. Big and photogenic views of green pastures and blue waters open up at mile marker 33.

Past Kaupo village, you enter the dry side of the island. Near the 31-mile marker, a short 4WD road runs down to 5Nuʻu Bay, favored by locals for fishing and swimming. If you’re tempted to hit the water, stay close to shore to avoid rip tides.

Just east of the 30-mile marker you’ll see two gateposts that mark the path to dramatic 6Huakini Bay. Park at the side of the highway and walk down the rutted dirt drive. It takes just a couple of minutes to reach this rock-strewn beach whipped by violent surf. You may see a few fishermen. After the 29-mile marker, look for for a natural lava 7sea arch that’s visible from the road.

As you approach ʻUlupalakua, eight graceful windmills, which started producing energy in 2012, mark the return of modern times. Pull over just ahead for interpretive signage about the windmills and the Hawaiian people who lived here between AD 1500 and 1800.

At the 19-mile marker the road crosses a vast 8lava flow dating from between AD 1480 and 1600, Haleakalā’s last-gasp eruption. This flow, part of the Kanaio Natural Area Reserve, is the same one that covers the La Perouse Bay area. It’s still black and barren all the way down to the sea.

Just offshore is Kahoʻolawe and on a clear day you can even see Hawaiʻi, the Big Island, popping its head up above the clouds. It’s such a wide-angle view that the ocean horizon is noticeably curved. You’ll wonder how anyone could have thought the world was flat!

For lunch, keep an eye out for lonely 9Bully’s Burgers. Don’t mind the cow skulls! From there it’s 4 miles to aMaui Wine, where you can toast the end of one spectacular drive.

The road is subject to tall tales about its condition, particularly from rental-car companies. In reality it is rough and narrow in a few spots early on, with a series of unpaved sections later in the drive, but easily driveable. The latter half has brand-new black-top. The highway has also gotten more crowded. Don't follow any vehicle too closely. With so many one-way stretches of road, someone ahead of you may need to stop and back up.

Wash-outs sometimes close the road temporarily, so inquire about conditions at the Kipahulu Visitor Center at the national park.