Kasos ΚΑΣΟΣ

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Kasos, the southernmost Dodecanese island, looks like the Greece that time forgot. Deceptively inviting in summer, it can feel very isolated in winter, when it's battered by severe winds and imprisoned by huge turquoise waves. Most of its visitors are rare seabirds; most of the human returnees are Kasiots on fleeting visits. Come here, though, and you may well succumb to its tumbledown charm.

In 1820, under Turkish rule, Kasos was home to 11,000 inhabitants. Tragically, Mohammad Ali, the Turkish governor of Egypt, saw its large merchant fleet as an impediment to his plan to establish a base in Crete. On 7 June 1824, therefore, his men landed on Kasos and killed around 7000 of its people. The island never really recovered, but each year Kasiots return from all over the world to commemorate the massacre.

8Getting There & Away

There are daily flights to Karpathos (€56, 10 minutes), Sitia (€61, 40 minutes) and Rhodes (€74, one hour) with Sky Express. The only ferry service is with Blue Star Ferries, en route between Rhodes and Karpathos, and Crete and Piraeus.

8Getting Around

The airport is 1km west of Fry. Either walk for 10 minutes along the coast road – yes, it’s exposed, but you won’t half feel pleased with yourself – or call a taxi (%mobile 6973244371, mobile 6977904632). In theory, a bus connects all the island’s villages, but it hasn't been working for years. Cars and scooters can be hired from Oasis Rent-a-Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41746; Kasos Airport).

Boat Services from Kasos (Fry)

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Heraklion	Fry	6hr	20	1 weekly
Karpathos	Fry	1½hr	8	3 weekly
Piraeus	Fry	19hr	44	2 weekly
Rhodes	Fry	8hr	24	3 weekly
Santorini	Fry	9hr	27	2 weekly
Sitia	Fry	2½hr	13	2 weekly

Fry Φρυ

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The capital, Fry (pronounced free), is on the north coast. The broad gentle valley behind it is the only fertile land on Kasos, so the only other villages are dotted across the surrounding hillside. Although Fry is more of a working port than a tourist destination, the tiny old harbour at its core, known as Bouka, is impossibly photogenic. Pretty white houses with navy-blue trim line the quay, a few cafes sit waiting for customers, grizzled fishermen patiently mend their nets, and the pastel-blue church of Agios Spyridon surveys the scene. Even as late as June, though, Fry still has the feel of a ghost town.

The nearest beach is 10 minutes’ walk east along the shoreline, in the tiny satellite port of Emborio. There are patches of gravel amid the sand, but the sea is clear and sheltered, so it’s a good place for a quick dip.

1Sights & Activities

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-3pm Jul-Sep)F

Housed in a grand 19th-century villa above the harbour, this seasonal museum displays objects pulled from ancient shipwrecks, assorted Greek oil lamps and Hellenistic finds, including inscribed stone slabs.

Excursion BoatBOATING

(%22450 41047, 6977911209; c)

When they can round up 10 or more passengers, two boats, Athina and Kasos Princess, offer summer-afternoon excursions (€10) to the uninhabited islet of Armathia, which has superb sandy beaches. The Kasos Princess also runs full-day trips to Pigadia on Karpathos, on summer Wednesdays only.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel AnagennissisHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41495; www.anagennisishotel.gr; s/d €45/50; aW)

Old-fashioned hotel, close to the waterfront in the village centre, where the plain but perfectly adequate rooms have comfy beds, fridges, bathrooms and sea-view balconies. Staff are seldom present in the hotel itself; the owners run the Kasos Maritime & Travel Agency next door.

Angelica'sAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41268; www.angelicas.gr; apt €60-80; aW)

Attractive, traditionally furnished apartments in a fine old village home with a pebble-mosaic courtyard, a five-minute walk up from the harbour. Two are on the ground floor, with private courtyards, and two upstairs, with sea-view verandas. All have painted floors and stencils on their white walls. The largest apartment sleeps up to five.

oTaverna EmboriosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41586; Emborio Beach; mains €6-13; hlunch & dinner; W)

Crisp, beautifully neat beachfront restaurant, 10 minutes’ walk from Fry. It’s unquestionably the best place to eat on Kasos. The friendly owner, who lived in New York for many years, serves up wonderful local specialities, including delicious octopus, tiny home-grown olives and his own salty preserved fish.

Orea BoukaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41053; mains €7-10)

There’s no menu at this simple little taverna, which sets out tables on the sea wall on the west side of Bouka harbour. Sophia, the owner, just shows or tells you whatever she happens to be cooking. In summer, expect a choice of dolmadhes, fresh fish, baked meats and vegetable stews.

MylosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41825; Plateia Iroön Kasou; mains €7; hlunch & dinner; Wv)

Overlooking the commercial port (as opposed to Bouka), this conspicuous taverna has unbroken sea views and serves a reliable menu of local favourites such as ‘mountain grass roots’ – village sausage and pot-roast rabbit – along with fresh fish. Almost everything costs less than €10.

8Information

Both the Commercial Bank beside the harbour and Alpha on Plateia Iroön Kasou have ATMs.

Kasos Maritime & Travel Agency ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41495; www.kassos-island.gr; Plateia Iroön Kasou) For all travel tickets.

Police (%22450 41222) On a narrow sealed street running south from Fry's main road.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22450 41288) Behind the Agios Spyridon church.

Post Office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Diagonally across from the police.

Around Kasos

None of the beaches on Kasos offer shade. The best is the isolated pebbled cove of Helatros, near Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, 11km southwest of Fry, but you’ll need your own transport to reach it, and it has no facilities. There’s another small but decent beach, Avlaki, in walking distance.

Agia Marina, 1km southwest of Fry, is a pretty village with a gleaming white-and-blue church that celebrates a festival on 17 July. Beyond it, the road continues to verdant Arvanitohori, with abundant fig and pomegranate trees. Poli, 3km southeast of Fry, is the former capital, built on the ancient acropolis.

Kastellorizo (Megisti) ΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟΡΙΖΟ (ΜΕΓΙΣΤΗ)

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So close to the Turkish coast – Kaş is just 2km away – that you can almost taste the East, the tiny, far-flung island of Kastellorizo is insanely pretty. Sailing into its one village (of the same name), past the ruined castle, minaret and pastel-painted neoclassical houses huddled around the turquoise bay, is soul enriching, and reminds a little of Symi without the super yachts and swank. 'Megisti', as Kastellorizo was once called (meaning 'great'), is the largest of a small archipelago, and despite being less than 10 sq km, enjoys more hours of sunshine than any other Greek island and boasts the most dramatic blue cave in the Med. And while it may lack powder-fine beaches, there are floating platforms and satellite idylls you can reach by boat.

Arid Kastellorizo is not easy to reach, but rewards with beauty, tranquillity and locals who welcome your custom.

History

Home to the best harbour between Beirut and Piraeus, Kastellorizo was successively a prosperous trading port for the Dorians, Romans, Crusaders, Egyptians, Turks and Venetians. Under Ottoman control, from 1552 onwards, it had the largest merchant fleet in the Dodecanese. A 1913 revolt against the Turks briefly resulted in it becoming a French naval base, and it subsequently passed into the hands of the Italians. The island progressively lost all strategic and economic importance, especially after the 1923 Greece–Turkey population exchange. Many islanders emigrated to Australia, where around 30,000 continue to live.

After Kastellorizo suffered bombardment during WWII, English commanders ordered the few remaining inhabitants to abandon the island. Most fled to Cyprus, Palestine and Egypt and those that later returned found their houses in ruins. While the island has never regained its previous population levels – the village alone was once home to 10,000 people – more recent returnees have finally restored almost all the waterfront buildings, and Kastellorizo is looking better than it has for a century.

The island has found itself in recent years in the migration path of thousands of fleeing refugees, though numbers have recently fallen to only a few; given their grandparents experiences as refugees, the islanders acted, not surprisingly, with great compassion.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) flies daily from Rhodes to Kastellorizo (return €132, 40 minutes).

Boat

Kastellorizo has a very limited ferry service. Blue Star Ferries calls in twice a week to and from Piraeus via Rhodes. On summer Saturdays, Dodekanisos Seaways sails from Rhodes to Kastellorizo and back; used as a day trip, it gives you four hours on the island.

8Getting Around

Kastellorizo’s tiny airport is up on the central plateau, 2.5km above the village. There’s no bus, so you’ll have to take the island's only taxi (%mobile 6938739178) to and from the harbour (€5).

The main destinations for boat trips are Kaş in Turkey and the spectacular Blue Cave (€9), famous for its mirror-like blue water, on Kastellorizo’s remote southeast shore. Try Nikos Sea Wolf Taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %mobile 6934523917; per person €8).

Kastellorizo Village Καστελλόριζο

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Kastellorizo Village is the main settlement on the island. Its harbour is its lifeblood and where the limited action gathers: mounds of yellow nets, stretching cats, youths on mobile phones and sleepy fishermen sit outside kafeneia (coffee houses), backdropped by smartly shuttered, brightly coloured mansions. Make sure you explore the labyrinthine cobbled backstreets behind.

An amazing 80% of the villagers are returned Aussie expats, which adds a definite upbeat energy to the community. Come August, thousands of 'Kassies' return to see their families.

1Sights & Activities

A coastal pathway around the headland below passes precarious steps that climb to a rock-hewn Lycian tomb from the 4th century BC, which boasts an impressive Doric facade. There are several such tombs along Turkey's Anatolian coast, but they are very rare in Greece.

It’s also possible to walk the 1km up to Paleokastro, the island’s ancient capital. Follow the concrete steps that start just past a soldier’s sentry box on the airport road. The old city’s Hellenistic walls enclose a tower, a water cistern and three churches.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h7am-2pm Tue-Sun; c)

Holds an assortment of ancient finds, costumes and photos as well as a documentary about Kastellorizo as told by the islanders.

Megisti MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; c)

In a former mosque near the ferry jetty, this museum devotes itself largely to display panels telling the island’s story.

Knights of St John CastleMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-2pm Tue-Sun; c)F

At the top of the hill, a rickety stairway leads to the ruins of the Knights of St John Castle, which gave the island its name – thanks to the red cliff on which it stood, this was the ‘Castello Rosso’. It offers splendid views of Turkey.

4Sleeping

oMediterraneoPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49007; www.mediterraneo-kastelorizo.com; s/d/ste €70/80/180; hMay-Oct; W)

If Picasso was a hotel, he'd be the Mediterraneo. With its lime, mango and smurf-blue exterior, this revamped mansion has romantic rooms tastefully scattered with art and traditional raised-platform beds. Breakfast on the terrace amid a confection of fruit and homemade jams, read in the shaded arbour, or flop on loungers by the sea.

Megisti HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49220; www.megistihotel.gr; d/ste incl breakfast €144/228; aiWs)

On the harbour's western extremity, it's impossible to miss the most imposing hotel on the island. Megisti's four suites and 15 stylish rooms have rain showers, DVD players, tiled floors, standard lamps, safety deposit boxes and private balconies. Outside on the chequerboard waterfront terrace, you can climb easily into the sea from Megisti's iron-hoop steps (like a giant swimming pool).

PoseidonHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49212, 6956617585; www.kastelorizo-poseidon.gr; Plateia Australias; studio/apt €135/150; aW)

Set in five beautifully restored neoclassical villas, a block from the corner of the west side of the harbour, Poseidon offers comfortably finished studios and apartments with grey shabby-chic furniture offset by sugar-white walls and contemporary lighting. Add to this private verandas, big sea views, a great breakfast in the main hotel, plus a relaxing roof terrace.

5Eating & Drinking

Tables spill out onto the narrow harbour, cats entwine themselves around diners’ legs and, by night, the atmosphere is magical. Just don’t tip into the water, for the kordoni (walkway) that is the village's main thoroughfare, is narrow.

oAlexandra'sTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49019; mains €7-15; hlunch & dinner; aW)S

With bouzouki music and salt breeze wafting over its thyme-topped tables, the friendliest of Kastellorizo’s quayside restaurants also serves the best food. Everything from the squid-ink risotto and calamari stuffed with feta is prepared by Alexandra herself. Mezedhes (appetisers) are full of vim and super fresh. Treat yourself to lamb on the spit.

LazarakisGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €8-15; hlunch & dinner; aW)

This central waterfront restaurant is great for seafood – grilled octopus, lobster spaghetti, baby shrimp, grouper and succulent calamari – and also has grilled meat dishes. Eat under the vine canopy, or better still out on the jetty where you can sometimes see giant turtles in the water.

Faros BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49509; mains €6; h9am-late; W)

Occupying an enviable location in the former lighthouse, beyond the ferry jetty and beside the mosque, this bar offers a wonderful opportunity to swim in turquoise shallows before taking breakfast and drinking in wide-screen views of Turkey. It even has its own quayside loungers. Salads and snacks all day, then tapas from 6pm.

8Information

Medical Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 70659 22460 49267; hMon & Fri 9am-1pm) on the eastern side of the harbour.

Papoutsis Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 70630, 22460 49356; h9am-2pm & 5pm-8pm) Ferry and air tickets, bike and scooter rental and yachting services.

Police Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49333) On the bay’s western side.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49333) At the eastern tip of the bay.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 49298; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Next to the police station.

Symi ΣΥΜΗ

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Beautiful Symi is guaranteed to evoke oohs and aahs from ferry passengers before they even get off the boat. The first sight of Gialos harbour, framed against an amphitheatre of pastel-coloured houses rising on all sides, is unforgettable. It’s all thanks to the Italians, who ruled the island almost a century ago and established the neoclassical architectural style that Symi has followed ever since.

Although Symi is far from small, it's mostly barren and the only settlements are Gialos, the old village of Horio, which sprawls over the hilly ridge behind, and Pedi, down in the valley beyond. One road runs all the way to the monastery at Panormitis, near Symi’s southern tip. The rest of this spellbinding island is largely deserted, but it's surrounded by blue coves and beaches, and aglitter with crystal-clear water so transparent that boats can look as if they’re floating on thin air.

History

Symi has long traditions of both sponge diving and shipbuilding and is mentioned in the 'Iliad' as sending three ships to assist Agamemnon’s siege of Troy. In ancient legend, Glaucus, one of the island's sons, was the master builder of Argo, the ship that would take Jason and his compadres to distant Colchis in search of the Golden Fleece. During Ottoman times it was granted the right to fish for sponges in Turkish waters. In return, Symi supplied the sultan with first-class boat builders. This exchange enriched the island – gracious mansions were built and culture and education flourished. By the early 20th century, the population was 22,500 and Symi was launching around 500 ships a year. But the Italian occupation, the advent of the steamship and the decline of the sponge industry put an end to prosperity, obliging Symi to reinvent itself as a tourist destination.

Symi - The island abounds with Italian-infl uenced architecture | TIMOFEEV VLADIMIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8Getting There & Away

Dodekanisos Seaways runs catamarans to and from Rhodes at least once daily – four each week stop at Panormitis en route – and also offers frequent sailings northwest, to Kos and beyond. Blue Star Ferries calls in twice weekly heading towards Rhodes, and also en route for Tilos, Nisyros, Kos, Kalymnos, Astypalea and Piraeus. Symi fills up every morning with day trippers from Rhodes, with several Rhodes-based excursion boats complementing the high-speed catamaran.

Look out for summer day trips from Gialos to Datça in Turkey (€40, including Turkish port taxes).

Boat Services from Symi (Gialos)

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Kalymnos*	Gialos	2hr 20 min	32	1 daily
Kos	Gialos	3hr	12	2 weekly
Kos*	Gialos	1½hr	24	1 daily
Leros*	Gialos	3hr	41	4 weekly
Lipsi*	Gialos	3hr 10min	41	1 daily
Nisyros	Gialos	3hr 20min	11.50	1 weekly
Patmos*	Gialos	4hr	46	daily
Piraeus	Gialos	15hr	56.50	2 weekly
Rhodes	Gialos	1hr 40 min	8	2 weekly
Rhodes*	Gialos	50min	18	1-4 daily
Rhodes*	Gialos	1hr	16	1 daily
Samos	Gialos	5hr	49	1 weekly
Tilos	Gialos	2hr	8	1 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Boat

Water taxis (%22460 71423) lined up along the inner side of Gialos harbour run regular trips to the island’s beaches. Most head either north to Nimborios (€6) or south to Agia Marina, Agios Nikolaos, Nanou and Marathounda (€6 to €14). In high season there’s at least one departure an hour, from 9am onwards, with the last boat back usually at 5pm or 6pm.

Larger boats offer day trips further afield to remote west-coast beaches, the monastery at Panormitis, or complete island-circuit tours (up to €40) that include a barbecue lunch.

Bus & Taxi

The island bus ( GOOGLE MAP ) makes hourly runs between the south side of Gialos harbour and Pedi Beach, via Horio (flat fare €1.50). There’s also a service to Panormitis two to three times daily (€1.50). Taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71311, mobile 6974623492; Southside of Gialos Harbour) depart from a rank 100m west of the bus stop, and cost €25 (each way) to Panormitis.

Car

Glaros ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71926, mobile 6948362079; www.glarosrentacar.gr; h9am-9pm), near the clock tower, rents cars and scooters.

Gialos Γιαλός

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Your first view of Gialos is unforgettable, with its neoclassical biscuit- and ochre-hued buildings gathered aristocratically around what is perhaps the world's prettiest harbour. Fishing boats bob in water so perfectly clear they look as if they're floating on thin air, sponge salesmen hawk their weird-shaped treasures of the deep, while a few world-class boutique hotels and restaurants invite the attention of the occasional Hollywood star arriving in a gleaming super-yacht.

Plant yourself at one of the many tavernas and cafes along the quayside, making sure you try the island's celebrated shrimps. The basilica and clock tower punctuate the edge of the harbour where you catch and disembark from the ferry. Wander away from the sea to find backstreets spilling with fruit stores, ice-cream parlours and aromatic bakeries.

Head north along the seafront from the clock tower, away from the centre, and you’re immediately in smaller Harani Bay. Traditionally a base for shipbuilding, it still holds assorted beached boats, along with its own crop of bars and tavernas.

The closest beach to Gialos, Nos, lies around the next headland, 500m from the clock tower. Access to this narrow strip of gravel is controlled by a taverna and bar, but it's a great spot for a swim, nonetheless.

1Sights & Activities

HorioVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Climbing calf-crunching, knee-knobbling Kali Strata, the broad stair path that sets off from the alleyways behind the harbour, will bring you in a mere 500-or-so steps to the hilltop village of Horio. En route you’ll pass a bewitching succession of majestic villas built for long-gone Symi sea captains – some are utterly dilapidated, others restored to splendour.

Constructed to deter marauding pirates, Horio is an absolute warren of a place. All its tavernas and bars, though, are clustered around the top of Kali Strata. Most of the houses beyond are in ruins, and so is the Knights of St John Kastro at the very top, thanks to an explosion of German munitions during WWII. The island’s Archaeological Museum is up here too, but is currently closed for restoration.

Nautical & Folklore MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h9.30am-9pm)

The two upper floors of a colourfully painted villa on Gialos’ main square hold the separate halves of this freshly restored museum. Crammed with relics of Symi’s sponge-diving era, including a pair of bulky helmets, the nautical section at the top is more interesting than the rather-haphazard folklore part below, but both contain fascinating old photos of the island.

Symi ToursBOATING, WALKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71307)

Symi Tours organises daily excursions by boat to explore Symi's beautiful coves, bays and secluded beaches. Daily departures from Gialos harbour at 10.30am, returning at 5pm. Find it on the south side of Gialos harbour. Also offers multilingual guided walks (€12) around the island (every Tuesday at 8am), often ending with a boat ride back to Gialos.

4Sleeping

oHotel FionaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72088; www.fionahotel.com; Horio; r incl breakfast €55; aW)

Offering Symi's best-value accommodation, this simple but charming family-run hotel perches on the edge of Horio (turn left at the top of Kali Strata). The views across the harbour are truly astonishing, both from the balconies of its spacious and attractively decorated rooms, kitted out with turquoise furniture, and from the breakfast area downstairs. There’s also a peaceful courtyard.

Hotel AlikiBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71655; www.hotelaliki.gr; d/ste incl breakfast €130/220; aW)

Dainty Aliki is Symi’s oldest hotel and evokes old-world charm with its traditionally painted wood-beamed lobby, flower-shaded lamps and vintage leather armchairs. Rooms are elegant and simple, with antique iron beds, fragrant linen and serene views of the sea lapping a few metres below. There's also a roof terrace. Check out its its sister restaurant next door, La Vaporetta.

Albatros HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71707; www.albatrosymi.gr; s/d incl breakfast €50/65; hApr-Nov; aW)

With its turquoise and biscuit-hued exterior, Albatros has a sunny breakfast room and five whitewashed air-con bedrooms with tiled floors, traditional wood ceilings and little balconies giving side-on sea views. Just a block back from the harbour in the heart of Gialos, it's clean and welcoming.

Iapetos VillageAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72777; www.iapetos-village.gr; d/apt €135/155; aiWs)

Set around a leafy courtyard, a short walk inland from the main square, Iapetos holds 28 high-class rooms, studios and apartments, newly built in traditional style. All have lovely wooden high ceilings and private patios or balconies, and most have fully fitted kitchens. There’s also a beautiful pool, tucked under the arches, plus a sauna and bar.

oOld MarketsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71440; www.theoldmarkets.com; r/ste incl breakfast €220/395; aW)

Symi's finest hotel stands a few steps up Kali Strata. The old market space has four stunningly individual rooms and one suite, while the newly opened adjoining mansion has five more contemporary suites. All rooms enjoy a pillow library, iPhone docking station and use of an honesty bar, as well as the roof terrace, pool and optional spa treatments.

5Eating & Drinking

Gialos

oMeraklisSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71003; www.tavernaomeraklis.com; mains €10-13; h10am-late; aW)

This old-school taverna, with Santorini-blue walls decked in vintage diving photos and antique mirrors, is as pretty as it is friendly. And while its souvlakia, meatballs and roast lamb are tasty, most diners come here to feast on fresh octopus, sea bream, Symi shrimp and swordfish. Why not try the lot, with a mixed seafood plate for two (€35)?

oTholosTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72033; Harani Bay; mains €8-14; hlunch & dinner May-Oct)

There’s no more romantic restaurant in the Dodecanese than this lovely taverna, poised at the tip of Harani Bay, along the quay from central Gialos. The sunset views from its waterfront tables are stupendous, and so too is the food, which includes local meat and vegetables as well as fresh fish. Be sure to sample the succulent, bright-red Symi shrimp.

oMusesFUSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6958734503; www.muses-symi.com; Gialos; mains €24; h7pm-late May-Oct)

Admittedly it's a little overpriced, but this wine-red bijou restaurant run by two Argentinian brothers is Symi’s most exciting restaurant. A modern Mediterranean menu changes daily, combining signature dishes like octopus with fava purée and orange, or pork with pears and retsina. Seating is on a flowery terrace, beside the town square just back from the harbour.

To SpitikoTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72452; Harani Bay; mains €10-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; W)

Owners Eruala and Fortes make their food with great care and zest, and while the place on the tip of Harani Bay harbour might not look spectacular, the cuisine most definitely is. Lemon potatoes, country sausage, Symi shrimps, grilled octopus in lemon sauce, and last but not least, mouthwatering portokalopita (orange cake). Ask to sit by the sea.

oTsatiBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72498; Harani Bay; h11am-late)

Ultra-welcoming quayside bar, 100m along Harani Bay beyond the clock tower. As well as tables on a tree-shaded terrace, it offers stone benches carved into the sea wall. Cushioned and whitewashed, they're perfect for a sunset cocktail, served with free snacks.

Horio

Olive TreeCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72681; www.olivetreesymi.eu; Horio; light meals €3-8; h8.30am-3.30pm; Wvc)S

English-run cafe that’s a favourite morning rendezvous for the island’s expats. Sit yourself down on its vine-shaded terrace at the top of Kali Strata and tuck into a wide array of smoothies, juices, cakes, locally sourced salads and sandwiches.

Taverna Giorgo & MariaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71984; Horio; mains €10; hlunch & dinner; W)

Bouzouki music piping across its breezy pebble-mosaic courtyard and veranda, soaring views of the gas-blue bay below, and a memorable selection of Symi shrimp, braised rabbit, pork casserole, swordfish, lobster and bream. Live music from 9pm on Friday and Saturday.

8Information

Ferries and catamarans dock beside the clock tower on the north side of the harbour entrance. Excursion and taxi boats dock along the south side, near its inland end. All activity in Gialos focuses on the quay, while the Kali Strata stairway sets off up to Horio from the southeast corner.

Both the National Bank and Alpha Bank have ATM-equipped branches on the northern side of the harbour.

Kalodoukas Holidays ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71077; www.kalodoukas.gr; h9.30am-2pm & 6.30-9pm) In the absence of an official tourist office, this helpful agency, at the foot of Kali Strata, is the next best thing. It also rents houses, sells tickets, organises excursions and offers yachting services.

Symi Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71307; www.symitours.com) This agency, just behind the southeast side of the harbour, organises excursions, including island bus tours and boat trips to Datça in Turkey. Also provides yachting services and sells ferry tickets.

Symi Visitor ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71785; www.symivisitor.com) Very friendly agency, just off the southeast side of the quay, with a fine roster of rental properties and a full-service laundry.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71111) By the ferry quay.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71205) By the ferry quay.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ) By the ferry quay.

Around Symi

Apart from the monastery at Panormitis, the only tourist destinations on Symi are the beaches scattered along its coastline.

Nimborios Νιμπόρειος

Nimborios is a pebble beach 3km west of Gialos, reached by walking or driving all the way around the harbour and simply continuing along the exposed but utterly beautiful shorefront road beyond. It’s a peaceful spot, with a good little taverna that allows its customers to spend the day on sun loungers beneath the tamarisk trees alongside.

4Sleeping

Niriides ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71784; www.niriideshotel.com; Nimborios; apt €140)

Adjacent to Gialos is the quiet little village of Nimborios where you'll find Niriides Apartments, sitting by peaceful Symi Bay. Pleasant, traditional decor with kitchenettes, fridges and balconies with sea views. There's a snack bar to take breakfast at and also a library.

Pedi Πέδι

Once a village, now more of a yachting marina and low-key resort, Pedi stretches along the inner end of a large bay south of Gialos, immediately below Horio. The gentle valley behind it has always been the agricultural heartland of Symi.

Two beaches, to either side of the mouth of the bay, can be reached on foot from Pedi or water taxi from Gialos; both have appealing tavernas. Agia Marina to the north is a lagoon-like little bay, facing a delightful chapel-topped islet across turquoise waters, which gets very crowded in summer. Agios Nikolaos, on the south side, is broader and sandier, with decent tree cover and idyllic swimming.

4Sleeping

Pedi Beach HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71981; www.pedibeachhotel.gr; Pedi; r from €117; a)

Fresher than a tube of toothpaste with their aquamarine-striped beds and cobalt-blue curtains, these simple cool-tiled rooms are pleasant, with unblemished sea-view balconies. There's a beach bar and snack bar.

Nanou & Marathounda Νανού & Μαραθούντα

Two large bays south of Pedi, Nanou and Marathounda, hold large beaches and tavernas and make great destinations for water-taxi day trips. Goat-roamed Marathounda, backed by a lush valley and also accessible via a rough road, is especially recommended.

5Eating

oMarathounda TavernaTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 71425; Marathounda; mains €10-12; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Quintessential beach taverna, where the owner's goats – responsible for the delicious homemade cheese and, whisper it, the goat stew, too – nuzzle up to the tables. Be sure to sample the Symi shrimp and grilled fish, along with herbs and vegetables from the organic gardens alongside. For those who can't bear to leave, it also has plush beachfront studios for rent (€125).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

MONI TAXIARHOU MIHAIL PANORMITI

Moni Taxiarhou Mihail PanormitiMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 72414; hdawn-dusk)F

Near Symi’s southern tip, beyond the scented pine forests of the high interior, spectacular Panormitis Bay is home to this large monastery. Monasteries have stood here since the 5th century but the present building dates from the 18th century. The principal church contains an intricately carved wooden iconostasis, frescoes and an icon of St Michael, protector of sailors and patron saint of Symi.

Pilgrims who ask the saint for a favour leave an offering; you’ll see piles of these, plus prayers in bottles that have been dropped off boats and found their own way here. The large complex comprises a Byzantine museum and folkloric museum, a bakery with excellent bread, and a basic restaurant-cafe. Visitors should dress modestly. Buses come here from Gialos, and some ferries call in, too.

Tilos ΤΗΛΟΣ

Pop 550

With its russet gold mountains, lack of people, and wildflowers blooming at every turn, Tilos has a charm that will salve your busy mind like no other island. If you’re looking for a green adventure on a lost idyll, this is the place, for you can hike through meadows, mountains and valleys on shepherds' paths before flopping onto one of Tilos’ many deserted beaches. And while its azure waters play host to monk seals and sea turtles, the island has a beguiling biodiversity, drawing birdwatchers and wildlife buffs from across the globe.

History

Amazingly, ancient Tilos is best known for its population of midget elephants. Full-sized elephants are thought to have found their way here six million years ago, when the island was still attached to Asia Minor. When cut off by the rising waters of the Mediterranean, the elephants were left with no natural predators, and a diminished food supply, and shrank in size. They became extinct around 4000 BC, possibly due to the arrival of the island’s first human inhabitants. A large cache of their bones was discovered in 1974 in Harkadio Cave, just off the Livadia–Megalo Horio road.

8Getting There & Away

Tilos has no airport and only a minimal ferry service. The Dodekanisos Seaways catamaran stops at Tilos on Tuesday and Thursday, heading from Rhodes and Halki to Nisyros, Kos and Kalymnos in the morning, and back to Rhodes in the evening. On those days, you can visit the island as a day trip from Rhodes or Halki. In addition, Blue Star Ferries sails twice each week to Piraeus via Nisyros, Kos and Kalymnos, and twice to Rhodes, one of which stops at Symi.

Boat Services from Tilos (Livadia)

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Halki*	Livadia	40min	13	2 weekly
Kalymnos	Livadia	3hr 20min	13	2 weekly
Kalymnos*	Livadia	2¼hr	29	2 weekly
Kos	Livadia	3hr	10	2 weekly
Kos*	Livadia	1½hr	22	2 weekly
Nisyros	Livadia	1½hr	7.50	2 weekly
Nisyros*	Livadia	45min	13	2 weekly
Piraeus	Livadia	16hr	54	2 weekly
Rhodes	Livadia	2½hr	13	3 weekly
Rhodes*	Livadia	1½hr	28	2 weekly
Symi	Livadia	2hr	9	1 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Five buses each day connect Livadia with Megalo Horio, Eristos Beach and Agios Antonios (€1.50). There is no taxi, but you can rent a car or scooter from Drive Rent A Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44173; www.drivetilos.gr; h9am-6pm) or Tilos Travel.

BIRDWATCHING PARADISE

The landscape of Tilos is much gentler than other Dodecanese islands. Rather than forbidding mountains, the interior is characterised by fertile valleys carved into agricultural terraces. It's criss-crossed by trails laid out by farmers that now serve as perfect footpaths. With small-scale ancient fortifications and medieval chapels scattered in profusion, Tilos makes a wonderful hiking destination.

What’s more, thanks to the island’s low population – and long-standing ban on hunting – it's also a favourite haunt for rare birds. More than 150 species have been recorded. Some are residential, some migratory. An estimated 46 species are threatened. As you hike, keep your eyes peeled for the Bonelli’s eagle, Eleonora’s falcon, long-legged buzzard, Sardinian warbler, scops owl and Mediterranean black shag.

Livadia Λιβαδειά

Pop 470

Livadia is a photogenic jumble of whitewashed houses huddled around the northern end of Agios Stefanos Bay. Little happens here – a cat yawns, a fisherman falls asleep over his glass of ouzo… And that’s precisely its charm: tranquillity. A narrow girdle of pebbled beach, perfect for sun worshipping, stretches some 2km from the village down the turquoise-laced bay, while the village’s central square is hugged by cafes, old-time tavernas and Italian-era municipal buildings.

1Sights & Activities

Mikro HorioARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr)

When pirates prowled the Dodecanese, this medieval settlement was Tilos’ main population centre. Its last inhabitants only left around 50 years ago and it now stands empty, 45 minutes’ walk up from Livadia. In various states of ruin – one house opens as a music bar in summer – it’s a fascinating place to wander. Linger until the light fades and it turns downright eerie. If you can stay awake long enough, visit Mikro Horio nightclub, in the middle of the village.

Tilos TrailsHIKING

(%22460 44128, 6946054593; www.tilostrails.com)

Tour company offering guided hikes all over the island, geared to suit individual abilities. Introductory walks last three hours. Talk to Iain and Lyn.

Tilos Heritage ToursHIKING

(%22460 44379, 6942061912; www.apollostudios.gr)

British-run walking tours of the island. Talk to Charlie.

4Sleeping

Hotel IriniHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44293; www.tilosholidays.gr; r incl breakfast €60; aWs)

Irini has stunning white rooms with flat-screen TVs, shabby chic furniture, colourful quilts, tasteful ceramics, fridges and pool-facing balconies. Behind are great mountain views to admire over breakfast.

Apollo StudiosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6942061912, 22460 44379; www.apollostudios.gr; d €50, apt €65-80; aW)

Fresh, well-appointed studios, run by a pleasant couple and set a few streets back from the harbour, with spotless kitchenettes, modern bathrooms, private balconies and a great communal roof terrace. They also offer roomy apartments with tiled floors and sofa beds – ask for number 3.

oIlidi Rock HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44293; www.tilosholidays.gr; studio/apt incl breakfast €90/130; aiW)

This superior hotel cascades down the cliff to two tiny aquamarine-laced inlets beside the harbour. Fully equipped studios and apartments with private balconies and four-poster beds, plus a minimalist style focusing your attention on the ravishing bay views beyond your window. Air-con costs €6 extra. There’s also a great cafe-bar. Free pick-ups from the boat and complimentary use of kayaks.

5Eating & Drinking

oOmonoia CafeCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44287; breakfast €3-5, mains €8-11; h8am-late; Wv)

Shaded by a mature fig tree on Livadia’s main square, just up from the quay, this much-loved all-day cafe is ideal for breakfast, light lunch or dinner. Its delightful elderly owners prepare everything from grilled meats and seafood to simple juices and salads, but you’ll probably lose your heart – and your waistline – to their sponge cake.

GorgonaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 70755; mains €10; h9am-11pm; aWc)S

Enjoying sweeping views of Agios Stefanos Bay, this rooftop restaurant serves olives and vegetables grown at its own farm. Following special recipes from the owner's grandmother, there's a wealth of choice from Tilos goat, lamb chops and pasta, to shrimps and octopus salad.

To Mikro KaféCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; snacks €5-7, mains €7-12; h6.30pm-late Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun; aWvc)

Micro in size it may be, but there's nothing diminutive about this cosy nook's appeal. With its exposed stone walls and nautically themed decoration, Micro is great for the kids, offering porthole windows, board games and little corners to play in while you nurse a sundowner on the beach-view patio (there's also a roof terrace). Offers salads, seafood, pies and sandwiches.

ArmenonTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44134; www.tilosarmenon.gr; mains €8-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; aW)S

Open-fronted taverna on the beach with unbroken turquoise views and a menu spanning taramasalata to souvlakia, calamari and local favourites like lentil and anchovy salad. The charming couple who run it are so committed to home-grown ingredients they keep their own bees. Customers get a free sun lounger for the day. Look for the blue and yellow parasols.

Mikro Horio NightclubBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6932086094, 22460 44204; Mikro Horio Village; h11am-late Jul-Sep; W)

Set in the creepy abandoned village of Mikro Horio, just 10 minutes' free shuttle bus from central Livadia, this place has a delightful veranda bar with amazing views of the bay and stars above. A great place for night owls.

SpitikoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-late)

Overlooking the square, this cosy cafe is a popular stop-off for its great coffee, cheese and/or spinach pies, baklava and local sweets. The sign is in Greek, but everybody knows the place.

8Information

All ferries arrive at Livadia’s small quay, at the west end of the bay, just below the main square, which holds the post office and an Alpha bank with ATM.

Clinic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44219; hnoon-5pm) Behind the church.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44222) In the white Italianate building on the quay.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44350) On the harbour.

Tilos Park Association ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 70883; h10am-12.30pm Mon-Fri May-Oct) Tilos has no official tourism office, but this beachfront centre, aimed at promoting ecological conservation, has displays and brochures on local wildlife and trails.

Tilos Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44360; www.tilos-travel.com; h9am-10pm) Helpful agency at the port, also known as Stefanakis Travel, which sells ferry tickets, rents out cars and motorbikes and offers credit-card cash withdrawals.

Megalo Horio Μεγάλο Χωριό

Megalo Horio, the tiny ‘capital’ of Tilos, is a hillside village where the narrow streets hold sun-blasted cubic houses and teem with battle-scarred cats. Enthusiastic volunteers can tell you all about the island's famous dwarf elephants at the one-room museum on the main street.

A taxing one-hour hike from the north end of Megalo Horio takes you to the Knights Castle, passing the island’s most ancient settlement en route.

1Sights

MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6984378079; Megalo Horio; h9am-2pm Jun-Sep)F

The principal focus at this one-room museum on the main street is the island's ancient population of dwarf elephants. Expert volunteers bring the story to life.

4Sleeping & Eating

Miliou StudiosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44204, 6932086094; Megalo Horio; d €50; aW)S

Comfortable rooms and self-catering studios with sweeping views of Eristos Bay far below. It's located in the centre of sleepy Megalo Horio; there's a supermarket close by, and free barbecue facilities in the grounds, plus you can also buy fruit and veg from Miliou's organic garden.

It's owned by the same people who run Mikro Horio nightclub and To Mikro Kafé.

Kastro CafeTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44232; Megalo Horio; mains €8-12; hlunch & dinner)

The best taverna in the village, with a glorious hillside terrace commanding a fabulous panorama of the bay. Everything on the menu is good, from the organic spit-roasted goat and locally raised pork, to the fresh little dolmadhes and tiny red shrimps.

TRAILBLAZING ON TILOS

There are 54km of trails in Tilos, and the mayor's office has made an effort to mark them with clear signage to aid keen walkers. One well-maintained and very scenic 3km walk leads north from Livadia to Lethra Beach, an undeveloped pebble-and-sand cove with limited shade. Follow the tarmac behind the Ilidi Rock Hotel, at the northwestern end of the port, to find the start of the trail. Returning via the picturesque Potami Gorge brings you to the main island highway.

A longer walk leads to the small abandoned settlement of Yera and its accompanying beach at Despoti Nero. Simply follow the road south from Livadia around the bay and keep going beyond the Church of Agios Ioannis at the far eastern end. Allow half a day for the full 6km round trip.

Two operators, Tilos Heritage Tours and Tilos Trails, offer guided hikes tailored to all levels of difficulty.

Northwest Tilos

The northwestern end of Tilos is home to several attractive beaches. The best for swimming is long, broad Eristos Beach, lapped by sapphire-hued waters, 2.5km south of Megalo Horio. Generally deserted but for the odd local line-fishing, its greyish sands are fringed by tamarisk trees.

The quiet settlement of Agios Antonios, in the large bay 1.5km northwest of Megalo Horio, is a narrow strip of shingle with a taverna at either end. Much prettier Plaka Beach, in a cove another 3km west, is completely undeveloped. The water is slightly warmer, there's shade in the afternoon and, once you wade in a little, the rock shelves are good for snorkelling.

Beyond Plaka, the coast road climbs the sheer hillside, skirting 3km of alarming drop-offs to reach cliff-edge Agiou Panteleimona monastery.

4Sleeping & Eating

Nitsa ApartmentsAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44093; www.nitsa-tilosapartments.com; Eristos Beach; r/ste incl breakfast €50/70)

Smart, modern studio block, 100m inland from Eristos Beach and holding simple rooms plus one- or two-bedroom self-catering apartments. It’s attached to the all-day En Plo snack bar.

Eristos Beach HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44025; www.eristosbeachhotel.gr; Eristos Beach; d/ste €60/90; paWs)

Just off the beach, this large hotel is set in lush gardens crowded with hibiscus, orchids and lemon trees. Fresh rooms with tiled floors have balconies that look out to the sea beyond, while larger studios have kitchenettes and sleep four. There’s also a lovely swimming pool and kid's pool, plus a restaurant and a bar.

En PloAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22460 44176; Eristos Beach; mains €10-15; h10am-late; W)

Close to the beach, this welcoming snack bar has excellent slow-cooked food like goat stew, and regulars like squid saganaki (stuffed with fried cheese), souvlakia and super-fresh vegetables. Breakfast, lunch and dinner can be eaten under the vine-shaded canopy in a lovely garden.

Nisyros ΝΙΣΥΡΟΣ

Pop 950

Thanks to its lack of beaches, Nisyros is very much off the tourist radar – apart from the day trippers from nearby Kos who come to witness the magnificent volcano. Yet for those seeking an island of natural beauty, goats wandering meadows stippled with beehives, soaring mountain views and wildlflowers, intimate Nisyros is just the ticket.

The main settlement, Mandraki, is a sleepy little fishing village garlanded with chic cafes, while hilltop villages Nikea and Emborios are stunning. Hike, wine-taste, immerse yourself in agrotourism... Those who chance a visit often return, again and again.

8Getting There & Away

Catamarans run by Dodekanisos Seaways call in at Nisyros onTuesday and Thursday, heading to and from Kos and Rhodes. Blue Star Ferries also stops twice in each direction, en route to either Kos, Kalymnos, Astypalea and Piraeus, or Tilos, Symi and Rhodes.

There are also daily links with Kos. The Panagia Spyliani sails to either Kos Town or Kardamena (€8), while the smaller Agios Konstantinos runs to and from Kardamena (€6).

Boat Services from Nisyros (Mandraki)

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Halki*	Mandraki	1½hr	24	2 weekly
Kalymnos	Mandraki	2½hr	8	2 weekly
Kalymnos*	Mandraki	1½hr	21	2 weekly
Kos	Mandraki	1¼hr	8.50	daily
Kos*	Mandraki	45min	16	2 weekly
Piraeus	Mandraki	14hr	55	2 weekly
Rhodes	Mandraki	5hr	14	2 weekly
Rhodes*	Mandraki	2¾hr	26	2 weekly
Tilos*	Mandraki	40min	14	2 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Boat

Summer-only excursion boats leave Mandraki harbour for the pumice-stone, sandy beach islet of Giali (€8 to €12), returning at around 6pm.

Bus

Up to 10 bus tours run by Enetikon Travel visit the volcano each day (€6), allowing around 40 minutes at the crater. Catch them outside the office at Mandraki port. Three daily buses run from outside the port to Nikea via Pali.

Car & Motorcycle

In Mandraki, Diakomihalis offers good-value car rental and Manos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31029; h9am-6pm) has a wealth of scooters and cars.

Taxi

A taxi from Mandraki to the volcano costs €20 return; call Irini (%22420 31474).

Mandraki Μανδράκι

Pop 660

This pretty whitewashed town stretches languidly along the northern shore of Nisyros, lapped by gentle waters and lined with cafes and tavernas. Mandraki is almost completely pedestrianised, so its maze of winding backstreets is tranquil and timeless, with a fertile valley sloping up towards the rim of the volcano behind. The ferry jetty is 500m northeast of Mandraki proper. Simply walk straight along the coast to reach the centre.

Mandraki, Nisyros - Stroll through this peaceful, almost traffic-free town | NEJDET DUZEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1Sights

The major landmark is at the far western end, where the ruins of a 14th-century Knights Castle tower atop a cliff face. Its lower levels are occupied by an equally old monastery, Moni Panagias Spilianis (Virgin of the Cave; GOOGLE MAP ; h10.30am-3pm), accessed by climbing a short but steep stairway.

WIth Nisyros being very short on beaches, local kids are glad of tiny but sandy Mandraki Beach, at the eastern end of town. It’s a popular swimming spot, despite being sometimes covered in seaweed. There’s also an exposed black-stone beach to the west, Hohlaki, reached by following a dilapidated and precarious footpath around the headland below the monastery. Don’t attempt this walk in bad weather.

PaleokastroARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr)F

Best reached by a lovely 20-minute hike through the fields, along a trail that starts southwest of the monastery, this astonishing Mycenaean-era acropolis was founded 3000 years ago. Its restored cyclopean walls are a little newer, from the 4th century BC – what looks like modern graffiti is in fact ancient dedications. Pass through the forbidding gateway and you can climb atop the massive blocks of volcanic rock for breathtaking views. Good explanatory signs in English are scattered throughout.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31588; €4; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; c)

This showpiece modern museum, on Mandraki’s main pedestrian street, displays a fascinating collection of Hellenistic and Roman pottery and sculpture, as well as earlier artefacts made of obsidian quarried on neighbouring Giali. One ancient Greek inscription records a then-recent influx of migrants from Syria and Palestine.

Church MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; €1; h10am-3pm Mon-Sat May-Sep)

Despite its name, this small museum, just up from the seafront below the monastery, is not exclusively ecclesiastic. Besides its icons, vestments, votive offerings and memorabilia of long-deceased monks, it’s crammed with oddments ranging from coins and banknotes to dolls.

4Sleeping

Hotel PorfyrisHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31376; www.porfyrishotel.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €46/54/59; aWs)

The only hotel in Mandraki town itself stands proudly on the hillside, set above a citrus orchard five minutes’ walk from the sea. If you’re arriving from the ferry, fork left at Piccolo Bar. Beyond the elegant marble lobby, expect simple, cosy en-suite rooms with comfy beds and terrace or balcony. There’s also a very welcome pool. Nice breakfast.

Hotel RomantzoPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31340; www.nisyros-romantzo.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €35/45/55; aW)

Set just up from the ferry on the road to the volcano, this three-tiered stone building throws off a welcome glow come evening. Rooms are on the small side with fridge and flat-screen TV. Best of all, there’s a communal sun-trap terrace up on the 2nd floor. The nearest restaurants are in town, 10 minutes' walk away. Generous-sized breakfast.

oTa LiotridiaB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31580; www.nisyros-taliotridia.com; r incl breakfast €140; aW)

Two large and very lovely B&B rooms (sleeping up to four) at the heart of the waterfront, on the upper floor of a smart wood-panelled bar. Each is furnished in comfortable traditional style, without being at all cluttered, and has a double bed in an alcove, another box bed, polished floors, stone walls and a sea-view balcony. Room 2 has the largest balcony.

5Eating

Pali BakeryBAKERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; €3; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat)

You can smell the delicious doughy aroma before you turn the corner to this bijou bakery on Mandraki's waterfront. Fresh brioche, cream pie, doughnuts, sweetbread with chocolate, and tiropita (cheese pie) are a few of the highlights in this calorific oasis.

To KazanarioGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6972240556; snacks €1.50-8; hnoon-late; aW)

Escape the day trippers in this garden ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks), tucked off the pedestrian lane a block from the sea. A dark staircase drops from its inconspicuous doorway to a friendly old drinking den and garden beyond, where amazingly cheap snacks include souvlakia, sausages and tender calamari.

IriniTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31365; Plateia Ilikiomenis; mains €9-12; hlunch & dinner; aWvc)

Sitting in the corner of a pebble-mosaic square in the shade of mature fig trees, Irini dishes up a mouthwatering menu of traditional fare like dolmadhes, goat in tomato sauce, souvlakia and saganaki (fried cheese). Try the heavenly baklava for dessert.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Mandraki’s waterfront is lined with cafes and bars, with terraces perfectly aligned for watching the sun set over Kos.

Rythmos BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-late; W)

Whether you choose a seat on its sun-soaked roof terrace or within its modish interior, this is a cool spot for a midday frappé or sunset glass of vino. Curiously it draws in the old boys as well as a young crowd – and it still works!

Ta Liotrida BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-late; W)

Wood floors, stone walls and low-lit interior at this atmospheric bar that plays nostalgic tunes and is the perfect spot to unwind over a coffee to escape the sun. Look out for the traditional olive press inside.

8Information

Visit www.nisyros.gr for information on sights, history and local services.

Alpha Bank has an ATM at the harbour and a branch in Mandraki, and there’s another ATM in town.

Diakomihalis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31459; www.visitnisyros.gr; h9.30am-1pm & 5pm-8pm) Ferry and air tickets, car rental and bus tours.

Enetikon Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31180; www.enetikontravel.com; h9.30am-2pm & 6.30pm-9pm) Run by the ever-helpful Michelle, 100m from the quay towards Mandraki, Enetikon runs boat trips and bus tours, dispenses free advice and sells tickets.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31201) and Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31222) both face the quay.

Around Nisyros

The Volcano Το Ηφαίστειο

Nisyros sits on a volcanic fault line that curves around the southern Aegean. While 25,000 years have passed since the volcano that formed it last erupted, it’s officially classified as dormant rather than extinct. Its summit originally stood around 850m tall, but three violent eruptions 30,000 to 40,000 years ago blew off the top 100m and caused the centre to collapse. White-and-orange pumice stones can still be seen on the northern, eastern and southern flanks of the island, while a large lava flow covers the entire southwest around Nikea.

The islanders call the volcano Polyvotis. Legend has it that during the battle between the gods and Titans, Poseidon ripped a chunk off Kos and used it to trap the giant Polyvotis deep beneath the rock of Nisyros. The roar of the volcano is his angered voice.

Visitors keen to experience the power of the volcano head by bus, car or on foot into the island’s hollow caldera, a vast and otherworldly plain that was home to thousands of ancient farmers. Ruined agricultural terraces climb the walls, while cows graze amid sci-fi-set rocks.

A fenced-off area at the southern end encloses several distinct craters ( GOOGLE MAP ; €3; h9am-8pm; pc). Get there before 11am and you may have the place to yourself. A path descends into the largest crater, Stefanos, where you can examine the multicoloured 100°C fumaroles, listen to their hissing and smell the sulphurous vapours. The surface is soft and hot, making sturdy footwear essential. Don’t stray too far out, as the ground is unstable and can collapse.

An obvious track leads to the smaller and wilder crater of Polyvotis nearby. You can’t enter the caldera itself, and the fumaroles are around the edge here, so take great care.

Emborios Εμπορειός

Largely ruined but for a few restaurants and some very appealing accommodation, the village of Emborios is perched high on the jagged northern rim of the caldera, 9km up from Mandraki. Tumbledown houses cling to the steep flanks of the rocky ridge. A few are freshly whitewashed, but most are in stark disarray and overgrown with bougainvillea. Apart from a few yawning cats, almost no one lives here permanently.

4Sleeping & Eating

oMelanopetraAPARTMENT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6978060289; www.melanopetra.gr/en; €170; aW)

With its ubiquitous white and bare-wood floors flooded in natural light, Melanopetra is pure zen minimalism. Two apartments with gorgeous bedrooms and kitchens enjoy dual views of both the caldera and Aegean on the other side. It's as if the rooms have been carved from the mountain itself with rough adobe walls and contemporary fittings.

Balcony RestaurantGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31607; Emborios; mains €7; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat; aWc)

The streetside terrace, facing the church, may look inviting, but opt if you can for a table on the namesake balcony at the back for an unforgettable panorama of the vast hollow crater. The menu is meat -heavy, with mouthwatering chops and steaks, but it also serves various vegetable fritters.

Nikea Νικαία

The village of Nikea is 4km south along the crater’s edge. No vehicles can penetrate this tight warren of dazzling white houses, so every visitor experiences the thrill of walking along the narrow lane from road’s end to reach the tiny central square. Less a square than a circle, actually, it’s among the most jaw-droppingly beautiful spots in the Dodecanese, with geometric pebble-mosaic designs in the middle, whitewashed benches around the edges, and the village church standing above.

Throughout Nikea, signposted overlooks command astonishing views of the volcano, laid out far below. The challenging trail down into the crater drops from behind the Volcanological Museum.

1Sights

Volcanological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31400; Plateia Nikolaou Hartofyli, Nikea; €2.50; h11.30am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-2.30pm Fri & Sat May-Sep; c)

Set beside the end of the road, this kid-friendly modern museum does a good job of explaining the history and mythology of the volcano and its impact on the island. There's also an interesting documentary worth a watch.

5Eating

PortaCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31832; Nikea; snacks €5-7; h8.30am-late; aW)

Located in Nikea’s pretty central square, Porta is a wonderfully relaxing place to enjoy a cool drink, toasted sandwich, juice or beer. It looks out not to the caldera but the Aegean.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

EXPERIENCING NISYROS

AnaemaTOURS

(%22420 31459; www.anaema.gr)

Anaema is a brilliant new cooperative of island guides who can offer you culturally immersive experiences from one to six days – including hiking the volcano, wine-tasting trips, cookery and embroidery classes, and the chance to get involved with agrotourism.

Pali Πάλοι

This wind-buffeted seaside village sits 5km east of Mandraki, just beyond the turn-off to the volcano. Now primarily a yachting marina, it has a handful of tavernas among the sun-beaten buildings on the quay.

The coast road continues another 5km to Lies, Nisyros’ most usable beach. Walking 1km along a precarious track from here brings you to Pahia Ammos, a shadeless expanse of coarse volcanic sand.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mammis’ ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31824; www.mammis.com; Pali; d €60; aW)

Set 100m up from the marina in gardens that are a riot of flowers, this peaceful complex holds 12 simple but imaginatively decorated apartments with kitchenettes, separate sofa beds for kids, and private balconies with sea views.

Captain’s HouseTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31016; Pali; mains €7-10; h8am-midnight; aW)

Festooned with yellow nets and so close to the water that you can taste the salt, this taverna attracts yachties and wizened fishermen alike with a menu that’s packed to the gills with octopus, calamari, baby shark and cuttlefish.

Kos ΚΩΣ

Pop 33,300

Fringed by the finest beaches in the Dodecanese, dwarfed beneath mighty crags, and blessed with lush valleys, Kos is an island of endless treasures. Visitors soon become blasé at sidestepping the millennia-old Corinthian columns that poke through the rampant wildflowers – even in Kos Town, the lively capital, ancient Greek ruins are scattered everywhere you turn, and a mighty medieval castle still watches over the harbour.

Visitors to Kos naturally tend to focus their attention on its beaches. In addition to those around Kos Town, there are three main resort areas. Kardamena, on the south coast, is very much dominated by package tourism, but Mastihari, on the north coast, and Kamari, in the far southwest, are more appealing. Away from the resorts, the island retains considerable wilderness, with the rugged Dikeos mountains soaring to almost 850m just a few kilometres west of Kos Town.

History

So many people lived on this fertile island in Mycenaean times that Kos was rich enough to send 30 ships to the Trojan War. In 477 BC, after suffering an earthquake and subjugation to the Persians, it joined the Delian League and again flourished. Hippocrates (460–377 BC), the Greek physician known as the founder of medicine, was born and lived on the island. After his death, the Sanctuary of Asclepius and a medical school were built, which perpetuated his teachings and made Kos famous throughout the Greek world.

That Ptolemy II of Egypt was also born on Kos secured the island the protection of Egypt. It became a prosperous trading centre, but fell under Roman domination in 130 BC and was administered by Rhodes from the 1st century AD onwards. Kos has shared the same ups and downs of fortune ever since, including conquest and/or occupation by the Knights, the Ottomans and the Italians and, much like Rhodes, its economy is now heavily dependent on tourism.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kos' airport (KGS; GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 56000; www.kosairportguide.com) is located in the middle of the island, 24km southwest of Kos Town. Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) offers up to four daily flights to Athens (from €50, 55 minutes) and three weekly to Rhodes (€79, 30 minutes), Kalymnos (€72, 20 minutes), Leros (€79, 55 minutes) and Astypalea (€91, one hour 40 minutes).

Boat

Domestic

From the island's main ferry port, in front of the castle in Kos Town, Dodekanisos Seaways runs catamarans up and down the archipelago, southeast to Rhodes via Nisyros, Tilos, Halki and Symi, and north to Samos, with stops including Kalymnos, Leros and Patmos. Blue Star Ferries also sails to Rhodes, as well as west to Astypalea and Piraeus.

The Panagia Spiliani ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 31015), which also runs day trips from Nisyros to Kos in summer, carries passengers to Nisyros on sailings that leave from Kos Town at 2.30pm four days a week, and from Kardamena at 6.10pm on the other three days.

Eight daily ferries also connect Mastihari with Kalymnos (€4.50, 50 minutes); see www.anekalymnou.gr and www.anemferries.gr.

International

High-speed catamarans connect Kos Town with both Bodrum (two daily) and Turgutreis in Turkey (one daily). Both journeys take 20 minutes. Tickets cost €20 each way, with same-day returns €24 and longer-stay returns €36. For schedules and bookings, visit www.rhodes.marmarisinfo.com.

Boat Services from Kos

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Astypalea	Kos Town	4hr	14.50	1 weekly
Kalymnos	Mastihari	50min	4.50	8 daily
Kalymnos	Kos Town	1hr 20min	6.50	3 daily
Kalymnos*	Kos Town	40min	16	1-2 daily
Leros	Kos Town	3¼hr	15	1 weekly
Leros*	Kos Town	1½hr	23	1-2 daily
Lipsi*	Kos Town	2hr	29	1-2 daily
Nisyros*	Kos Town	55min	16	2 weekly
Patmos*	Kos Town	3hr	31	1-2 daily
Piraeus	Kos Town	11hr	55	3 weekly
Rhodes	Kos Town	3hr	25	1 daily
Rhodes*	Kos Town	2½hr	32	1 daily
Samos	Kos Town	4hr	44	4 weekly
Symi	Kos Town	3hr	12	2 weekly
Symi*	Kos Town	1½hr	24	5 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

The airport is served by several daily buses to and from Kos Town's bus station (€3.20). A taxi to Kos Town costs around €30. Note that Kefalos-bound buses stop at the big roundabout near the airport entrance.

The airport is so far from Kos Town that if you’re planning to rent a car anyway, it’s worth doing so when you first arrive. All the international chains have airport offices.

Bicycle

Cycling is very popular, so you’ll be tripping over bicycles for hire. Prices range from as little as €5 per day for a boneshaker, up to €20 for a decent mountain bike. In Kos Town, George’s Bikes offers reasonable rates.

Kos Mountainbike Activities ( GOOGLE MAP ; %mobile 6944150129; www.kosbikeactivities.com; Psalidi; mountain bike per day €30; h9am-12.30pm & 5.30pm-7.30pm) offers bike rentals and guided tours.

Boat

Several boats moored in Kos Town offer excursions around Kos and to nearby islands. A ‘three island’ day trip to Kalymnos, Pserimos and Platy costs around €30, including lunch, while you can find day trips to Bodrum for as little as €10.

Bus

The island's main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 22292; Kleopatras 7) is located well back from the waterfront in Kos Town. It is the base for KTEL (%22420 22292; www.ktel-kos.gr), which has services to all parts of the island, including the airport and south-coast beaches.

Car

A recommended local operator is Auto Bank Car Rental, with outlets at the airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 23397; www.autobank-carrentalkos.com), Kos Town and Mastihari.

Kos Town Κως

Pop 14,750

A handsome harbour community, fronted by a superb medieval castle and somehow squeezed amid a mind-blowing array of ancient ruins from the Greek, Roman and Byzantine eras, Kos Town is the island's capital, main ferry port and only sizeable town. While some central streets tend to be overrun by partying tourists, most remain stylish and attractive. The port is the most appealing area of all, lined by cafes and tavernas and with an unbroken row of excursion boats, fishing vessels and fancy yachts bobbing and bristling against each other along the waterfront.

Popular beaches stretch in either direction from the harbour. Long sandy Kritika Beach, running northwest and in easy walking distance of the town centre, is lined with hotels and restaurants. Southeast of the harbour the thin strip of sand known as Kos Town Beach is dotted with parasols in summer and offers deep water for swimming. Both beaches fill with guests from adjacent hotels.

The nearest beach to Kos Town, crowded Lambi Beach begins just 2km northwest and has its own strip of hotels and restaurants. Further west along the coast, a long stretch of pale sand is fringed by two more resorts – Tingaki, 10km from Kos Town, and the slightly less crowded Marmari Beach beyond. Windsurfing is popular at all three beaches, while the island of Pserimos is only a few kilometres offshore and served by excursion boats from Marmari in summer.

Heading south from Kos Town along Vasileos Georgiou, on the other hand, brings you to the three busy beaches of Psalidi (3km from Kos Town), Agios Fokas (8km), and Therma Loutra (12km). At Therma Loutra, hot mineral springs warm the sea.

Kos Town

1Sights

1Ancient AgoraD3

2Archaeological MuseumC3

3Castle of the KnightsC2

4Decumanus MaximusB5

5Hippocrates' Plane TreeD3

6House of EuropaB5

Mosque of Gazi Hassan PashaD3

7NymphaeumA4

8OdeionA5

9Plateia PlatanouD3

10Temple of DionysosC5

11Western Excavation SiteA5

12XystoA5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

13EvaB3

4Sleeping

14Hotel AfendoulisF4

15Hotel SoniaA3

16Kos Aktis Art HotelE3

17Kosta PalaceB1

5Eating

18AegliC4

19EliaB4

20Nick the FishermanB1

21Petrino Meze RestaurantA4

22Pote Tin KyriakiB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

23AenaosC3

24Global CafeC4

7Shopping

25Dimotiki AgoraC4

1Sights & Activities

Castle of the KnightsCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 27927; Harbour; €4; h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Kos’ magnificent 15th-century castle was constructed not on a hilltop, but right beside the entrance to the harbour. Access it by the bridge from Plateia Platanou, crossing what was once a seawater-filled moat but is now a road. Visitors can stroll atop the intact outer walls, surveying all activity in the port and keeping a watchful eye on Turkey across the strait. The precinct within, however, is now largely overgrown, with cats stalking through a wilderness of wildflowers.

Plateia PlatanouSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The warm, graceful charm and sedate pace of Kos Town is experienced at its best in this lovely cobblestone square, immediately south of the castle. Sitting in a cafe here, you can pay your respects to Hippocrates' plane tree ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Platanou). Hippocrates himself is said to have taught his pupils in its shade. The ancient sarcophagus beneath it was converted into a fountain by the Ottomans, while the 18th-century Mosque of Gazi Hassan Pasha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Platanou), now sadly boarded up, stands opposite.

Ancient AgoraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)F

Exposed by a devastating earthquake in 1933, Kos’ ancient centre occupies a vast area south of the castle. Back in the 4th century BC, this was the first town ever laid out in blocks, and you can still discern the original town plan, even though it’s very overgrown. Landmarks include a massive columned stoa and the ruins of a Shrine of Aphrodite, Temple of Hercules and Christian basilica.

The site is fenced, but usually open all day. Locals use it as a shortcut.

Western Excavation SiteARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)F

This open site, south of the centre, holds fascinating ancient ruins uncovered by an earthquake in 1933. Its real treasures are the mosaics of the House of Europa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk), dating from the 2nd century and protected by rudimentary shelters. In front of them, there's a section of the Decumanus Maximus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk), the Roman city’s main thoroughfare, while the site also holds the Nymphaeum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk), the Xysto ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk) and the overgrown but evocative Temple of Dionysos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk). Across the street stands an impressive 2nd-century theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk).

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Eleftherias; €8; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun)

Housed in an Italian-era building in the central square, the small archaeological museum is finally open after restoration and possesses a wealth of sculptures from the Hellenistic to late Roman eras, with a statue of Hippocrates and a 3rd-century-AD mosaic as the star attractions. There are information panels for many of the rooms.

EvaBOAT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6955581116, 694369300; www.facebook.com/Eva.Boat.Kos; Akti Koundourioti; €40; hdeparts 10.30am; c)

Treat yourself to a boat trip on bee-coloured Eva; a twin-masted wooden caïque with a finely crafted crow's nest and gunwales. You'll (often) see dolphins, swim in a turquoise cove and stop at Pserimos island for a beach flop. With Captain Savvas and his friendly family. Returns around 6pm.

4Sleeping

oHotel AfendoulisHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 25321; www.afendoulishotel.com; Evripilou 1; s/d/tr €35/50/60; hMar-Nov; aiW)

This family-run hotel has sparkling rooms with TVs, balconies, hairdryes, quick internet and comfy beds. Downstairs, the open breakfast room and breezy terrace have wrought-iron tables and chairs for reading or enjoying their memorable breakfast of homemade jams. There may be plusher hotels in Kos, but none with the soul of the Afendoulis, where nothing is too much trouble.

Kosta PalaceHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 22855; www.kosta-palace.com; cnr Akti Kountourioti & Averof; s/d/apt €65/95/135; aiWs)

This swanky harbour-front edifice, facing the castle across the port, holds 160 rooms with kitchenettes and private balconies. Apartments have separate rooms. There are also pools for kids and adults and a snack bar on the roof. While it's clean and functional, it can be rather impersonal.

Hotel SoniaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 28798; www.hotelsonia.gr; Irodotou 9; s/d/tr incl breakfast €45/60/75; aW)

A block from the waterfront on a peaceful backstreet, this pension offers a dozen sparkling rooms with parquet floors, fridges, smart bathrooms and an extra bed if required. Room 4 has the best sea view. Breakfast is served on a relaxing communal veranda, there's a decent book exchange, and it plans to open up the garden to visitors.

Kos Aktis Art HotelHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 47200; www.kosaktis.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 7; s/d/tr from €190/200/278; aiWs)

Aktis' beautiful hotels are scattered across the Dodecanese and its representative here in Kos is stunning. Bedrooms are minimalist affairs of glass, light and wood. The view of the Aegean and, by night, Bodrum glittering like a giant chandelier, is romantic. There's a gym, fine restaurant and bar.

5Eating

oPote Tin KyriakiTAVERNA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6930352099, 22420 27872; Pisandrou 9; h7pm-2am)

Named for Melina Mercouri's Oscar-winning 1960 song, 'Never on Sunday' is not the sort of place you expect to find in modern Kos – and it takes a lot of finding! This traditional ouzerie (place that serves ouzo & light snacks) serves delicious specialities such as stuffed zucchini flowers, dolmadhes and steamed mussels.

AegliCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 30016; www.aiglikos.gr; Plateia Eleftherias; snacks €3-5; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Stretching from beneath the arches of a municipal building onto the main square, this bakery-cafe is run by a cooperative supporting low-income women and employs only female staff. The speciality is marmarites – translated as ‘crumpets’, but more like sourdough flatbread – with sweet or savoury toppings, but it also serves pies, juices, coffee and gigantic breakfasts (for two €16).

oEliaGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 22133; Appelou Ifestou 27; mains €8-15; h12.30pm-late; aWvc)S

With its traditional wood-beamed ceiling and partly exposed stone walls covered in murals of the gods of the pantheon, Elia is earthy and friendly, while its small and focused menu is fit for a hard-to-please deity. Mezedhes (appetisers), shrimp, steamed mussels and grilled octopus are a few of your soon-to-be favourite things. Staff are warm and welcoming whatever the weather.

Petrino Meze RestaurantMEZEDHES€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 27251; www.petrino-kos.gr; Plateia Theologou 1; mains €9-28; hlunch & dinner; aW)

Peaceful and balmy, this graceful restaurant has a leafy garden shaded by bougainvillea, overlooking Kos Town’s western group of archaeological ruins. Highlights on its upscale menu include hearty meat concoctions such as beef stuffed with blue cheese and pork with plums, but it also serves lighter dishes such as steamed swordfish or pasta, as well as mixed mezedhes (appetisers) platters.

Nick the FishermanSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Averof 21; mains €10-14; h1pm-1am; aW)

This side-street seafood taverna is bedecked with nets and dangerous-looking fish on the walls. Try the sardines, red snapper, striped mullet and grouper. Live mussels are kept in an aquarium.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Kos Town has a very lively party scene. Aimed squarely at tourists bussed in from the coastal resorts, it centres a block south of the harbour and along the waterfront on Kritika Beach. Locals congregate on weekends to drink coffee and gossip in the cafes on Plateia Eleftherias (Freedom Sq).

Global CafeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 26003; Ifestou 1; h8.30am-late; W)

With its modern interior, Global Cafe bags a youthful crowd who come to chat and play backgammon over a coffee or juice. There's a lovely atrium area full of light and a long bar to perch yourself at. Salads and burgers are on the menu and the cocktails are worth a look. Can be a bit smoky.

AenaosCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 26044; Plateia Eleftherias; h8am-late; W)

Tucked beneath an exquisite, still-active mosque, this well-shaded cafe is popular with locals who come to people-watch – or be seen – in its smart interior, or outside on the terrace in the corner of the plateia. Treat yourself to its delectable spectrum of sweet confections (from €3.50), coffees and juices.

7Shopping

For high-street-style shops, head to the eastern end of Ioannidi and the pedestrian streets south of Ippokratous.

Dimotiki AgoraMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 22900; Plateia Eleftherias; h8am-late)S

Fragrant with spices, this lively open-arched market has a cornucopia of locally made honeys, natural soaps, bonbons, sandalwood spoons, mythological curios and Kalymnian sponges.

8Information

Kos Town has several ATMs, including at the branches of Alpha Bank on El Venizelou and the National Bank of Greece on Riga Fereou.

Fanos Travel & Shipping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 20035; www.kostravel.gr; Akti Koundourioti 11; h9am-9pm) Tickets for the hydrofoil service to Bodrum and other ferries, plus yachting services.

Kentrikon Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 28914; Akti Kountouriotou 7; h9am-9pm) The official agent for Blue Star Ferries also sells all other ferry and air tickets.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 25462; Eparhio Bldg, Akti Miaouli)

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 26594; cnr Akti Koundourioti & Megalou Alexandrou)

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 22444; Akti Miaouli)

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Vasileos Pavlou)

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Cycle lanes thread all through Kos Town, with the busiest route running along the waterfront to connect the town with Lambi to the north and Psalidi to the south. Many hotels have bikes for guests, or you can rent one from George’s Bikes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 24157; Kanari 8; cycle/scooter per day €4/15).

Bus

Local buses, run by DEAS (%22420 26276; flat fare €2), operate within Kos Town, but have little relevance to visitors. Buses to the rest of the island, including the airport, depart from the KTEL bus station.

Taxi

Taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 23333, 22420 22777) congregate on the south side of the port.

Tourist Train

One way to get your bearings in summer is to take a 20-minute city tour on the tourist train ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 26276; €5), which departs frequently from Akti Kountouriotou on the harbourfront.

Around Kos

Asklepieion Ασκληπιείον

oAsklepieionARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 28763; adult/child €8/free; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun, 8am-3pm Nov-Mar)

The island’s most important ancient site stands on a pine-covered hill 3km southwest of Kos Town, commanding lovely views across towards Turkey. A religious sanctuary devoted to Asclepius, the god of healing, it was also a healing centre and a school of medicine. It was founded in the 3rd century BC, according to legend by Hippocrates himself, the Kos-born ‘father’ of modern medicine. He was already dead by then, though, and the training here simply followed his teachings.

Until the sanatorium was destroyed by an earthquake in AD 554, people came from far and wide for treatment.

The ruins occupy three levels, with the propylaeum (approach to the main gate), Roman-era public baths and remains of guest rooms on the first level. The second holds an altar of Kyparissios Apollo, with the 1st-century-BC Temple to Apollo to the east and the first Temple of Asclepius, built in the 4th century BC, to the west. The remains of its successor, the once-magnificent 2nd-century-BC Temple of Asclepius, are on the third level. Climb a little further, to the cool pine woods above, for the best views of all.

A modern museum on the path down preserves ancient inscriptions and shows films explaining the site.

Bus 3 runs hourly from Kos Town to the site. It’s also a pleasant bike ride.

Mountain Villages

The villages scattered on the green northern slopes of the Dikeos mountains make ideal destinations for day trips.

Kos' prettiest mountain village – Zia, 14km west of Kos Town – is now essentially a one-street theme park. The views down to the sea are as wonderful as ever, but coach-loads of tourists are deposited every few minutes to stroll along its gauntlet of souvenir shops and competing tavernas.

Continuing 6km west beyond Zia brings you to the less commercialised village of Pyli. Even better, just before the village a left turn leads to the extensive remains of its medieval predecessor, Old Pyli, scattered amid the towering rocks and pine trees of a high and very magical hillside. The summit here is crowned by the stark ruins of Pyli Castle and the whole place is so wild you half expect Pan to pop up. A well-marked trail climbs from the roadside parking area, forking left to the castle and right to the old village, where the only building still in use is a tavern hidden in the woods.

Buses connect Kos Town with Pyli itself (€2, two to three daily), but not Old Pyli .

5Eating

Zia

The WatermillCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €8; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; Wc)S

It's worth the brief climb up the hill just to sate your thirst with their delicious homemade lemonade. With its vine-covered arbour and relaxing patio giving stunning mountain views, this former watermill exudes a serenity that will still your pulse to that of a freediver. The menu includes crêpes, fruit salad and pasta dishes.

Taverna OromedonGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 69983; www.oromedon.com; Zia; mains €9-15; hlunch & dinner)

Zia’s finest restaurant is justly acclaimed for its vine-laced sun terrace, unbroken sea views and traditional Greek menu of shrimp saganaki (shrimp in fried cheese), dolmadhes and stifadho. Meat-eaters should be sure to spare some room for the chunky local sausages.

Pyli

oOria TavernaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6981764991; Old Pyli; mains €7-10; h9am-9pm; p)S

Idyllic taverna, only accessible by hiking up the hillside facing the 1000-year-old Pyli Castle and enjoying what is certainly the best rural view on Kos. It’s open all day for snacks and cooling drinks, but you can’t beat a sunset dinner here, tucking into the seasonal, locally sourced menu of steaks, meatballs, zucchini and tzatziki.

Mastihari Μαστιχάρι

Hardly more than a village, this delightful old-fashioned beach resort holds everything you need for a straightforward family holiday. There’s a lovely broad strip of powder-fine sand scattered with tamarisk trees, a clutch of whitewashed rental studios and small hotels, and a row of appetising waterfront tavernas and bars. There’s no historic core and nothing of any architectural interest, but as a place to spend a day or a week in the sun, Mastihari has it all.

Mastihari’s tiny port is served by frequent ANE Kalymnou (%22420 29900; www.anekalymnou.gr) and ANEM (www.anemferries.gr) ferries to Pothia on Kalymnos, as well as excursion boats to the islet of Pserimos in summer.

4Sleeping & Eating

Studios DianaAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 59116; Mastihari; apt €40)

Clean and basic studios opening onto the sea, with private balconies and very tiny kitchens. Turning on the air-con costs €5 extra.

Athinas StudiosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6974180326; www.athinas-studios.gr; Mastihari; d/tr €40/50)

Super-fresh studio rooms with Aegean-blue trim and spotless kitchenettes. They’re a block back from the seafront, but the upper-level rooms have private sea-view terraces and there’s also a roof garden. One room has bunk beds, double bed and a large balcony.

El GrecoTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mastihari; mains €8-12; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; a)

Beachside taverna – follow the blue-painted walkway up from the sand – that consistently pleases with its fresh salads, zucchini, souvlakia and lamb with rosemary, as well as grilled sardines, cod and octopus. Only the very fanciest fish dishes cost more than €10, and it also serves breakfast all day.

Kali KardiaSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 59289; Mastihari; mains €6-15; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Atmospheric taverna right on the harbour, with tables out on the footpath and a wooden interior that’s patronised by older folk staring out to sea. Piping aromas of squid, shrimp and souvlakia emerge from the kitchen, and large mixed platters cost €10 per person.

Kamari & Kefalos Bay Καμάρι & Κέφαλος

Enormous Kefalos Bay, a 12km stretch of high-quality sand, lines the southwest shoreline of Kos. For most of its length the beach itself is continuous, but the main road runs along a crest around 500m inland, so each separate section served by signposted tracks has its own name. Backed by scrubby green hills and lapped by warm water, these are the finest and emptiest beaches on the island. Kamari, at the western extremity of this black-pebbled beach, is a low-key resort with plenty of cafes, tavernas and accommodation, as well as decent water sports. High above Kamari, perched on a bluff, the touristy village of Kefalos has a few spots to eat and stay. If you’re determined to escape the crowds, continue on to the island’s southern peninsula beyond.

The most popular stretch of sand is Paradise Beach, while the least developed is Exotic Beach. Langada Beach (which you may also see referred to as Banana Beach) makes a good compromise, but the best of the lot is Agios Stefanos Beach, at the far western end. A small beachfront promontory here is topped by a ruined 5th-century basilica, while the absurdly photogenic islet of Kastri stands within swimming distance immediately offshore.

On the west coast, Agios Theologos Beach is backed by meadow bluffs carpeted in olive groves, and feels far removed from the resort bustle.

4Sleeping & Eating

Affordable studios and apartments are the order of the day, with an emphasis on package holiday accommodation in Kamari.

Anthoula StudiosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 71904; studios €40; as)

Perched on the hill, this yellow eyrie is set on well-kept grounds and has a great pool to cool off in, with decent rooms with safety deposit box and fridge, plus air-con for an extra €5 per night. A minibus runs to and from the beach on Kefalos Bay several times a day. Owner Anthoula is lovely.

Albatross ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22420 71981; albatross@hotmail.com; Kamari Beach; apt €70; paWs)

Eleven simple, spotless and identical kitchenette studios, so freshly maintained they might have been built yesterday. All have sea views, there’s a good swimming pool, and the beach is just across the road, with the jetty a short walk away. There’s an on-site bar but no restaurant. Airport pick-up for stays of three nights or more.

oRestaurant Agios TheologosTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6974503556; Agios Theologos Beach; mains €8-15; hlunch & dinner, Sat & Sun only Nov-Apr; aW)

Set in dreamy sand dunes above Agios Theologos Beach, this much-loved seasonal taverna enjoys the best sunsets in Kos. Its zesty homemade cheese, courtesy of its inquisitive goats, is at its most flavoursome fried, while a fresh grilled bream costs around €15. There are fantastic mezedhes (appetisers) too. Pure romance.

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