Dodecanese
Rhodes
Halki
Karpathos
Kasos
Kastellorizo (Megisti)
Symi
Tilos
Nisyros
Kos
Astypalea
Kalymnos
Leros
Patmos
Lipsi
Arki & Marathi
Agathonisi
Dodecanese
Why Go?
Ever pined for the old Greece, where timeless islands beckon modern-day adventurers just as they did Odysseus and Alexander? Enter the far-flung Dodecanese (Δωδεκάνησα; do-de-ka-ni-sa) archipelago, curving through the southeastern Aegean parallel to the ever-visible shoreline of Turkey. The footprints of everyone from Greeks and Romans to crusading medieval knights, and Byzantine and Ottoman potentates to 20th-century Italian bureaucrats, are found here. Beyond better-known Rhodes and Kos, enigmatic islands beg to be explored.
Hikers and naturalists flock to Tilos, while climbers scale the limestone cliffs in Kalymnos. Aesthetes adore the neoclassical mansions of Symi, Halki and Kastellorizo, divers explore underwater caves and ancient wrecks, and kitesurfers blow in to Karpathos for its legendary winds. Archaeologists and history buffs let their imaginations loose on a bevy of ancient sites, while sybarites can worship Helios on myriad beaches, far from the package crowds.
When to Go
AApr & May Prices are low, few tourists are around and the sea is warming up.
AJul & Aug Peak season for accommodation and visitors – book ahead.
ASep & Oct Great time to come: low prices, warm seas and perfect hiking weather.
Best Places to Stay
Dodecanese Highlights
1 Rhodes Old Town Wandering beneath Byzantine arches and along ancient cobbled alleyways.
2 Olymbos Following the winding road up to this timeless mountaintop village.
3 Kalymnos Testing your mettle diving for wrecks or climbing limestone cliffs.
4 Tilos Hiking or birdwatching on this postcard-perfect island.
5 Nisyros Entering its fabled volcano, home to an imprisoned Titan.
6 Symi Feeling your pulse quicken as your boat pulls into the gorgeous Italianate harbour.
7 Patmos Making a pilgrimage to where St John experienced his ‘Revelations’.
8 Kastellorizo Gasping in awe at the largest and most dramatic of blue caves in the Mediterranean.
History
The Dodecanese islands have been inhabited since pre-Minoan times. After the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC, they were ruled by Ptolemy I of Egypt. The islanders later became the first Greeks to convert to Christianity, thanks to the tireless efforts of St Paul, who made two journeys to the archipelago during the 1st century, and St John the Divine, who was banished to Patmos, where he had his revelation and added a chapter to the Bible.
The early Byzantine era saw the islands prosper, but by the 7th century AD they were being plundered by a string of invaders. The Knights of St John of Jerusalem (Knights Hospitaller), who arrived during the 14th century, eventually ruled almost all the Dodecanese. Their mighty fortifications have proved strong enough to withstand time, but failed to keep out the Turks in 1522.
The Turks were in turn ousted in 1912 by the Italians, who made Italian the official language and banned the Orthodox religion. Inspired by Mussolini’s vision of a vast Mediterranean empire, they also constructed grandiose public buildings in the fascist style, the antithesis of archetypal Greek architecture. More beneficially, they excavated and restored many archaeological monuments.
After the Italian surrender of 1943, the islands (particularly Leros) became a battleground for British and German forces, inflicting much suffering upon the population. The Dodecanese were formally returned to Greece in 1947.
Rhodes ΡΟΔΟΣ
Pop 115,000
By far the largest and historically the most important of the Dodecanese islands, Rhodes (ro-dos) abounds in beaches, wooded valleys and ancient history. Whether you arrive in search of buzzing nightlife, languid sun worshipping, diving in crystal-clear waters or to embark on a culture-vulture journey through past civilisations, it’s all here. The atmospheric Old Town of Rhodes is a maze of cobbled streets that will spirit you back to the days of the Byzantine Empire and beyond. Further south is the picture-perfect town of Lindos, a soul-warming vista of sugar-cube houses spilling down to a turquoise bay.
History
The Minoans and Mycenaeans were among the first to have outposts on Rhodes, but only with the arrival of the Dorians in 1100 BC – settling in Kamiros, Ialysos and Lindos – did the island begin to make itself felt. Switching allegiances like a pendulum, Rhodes was allied to Athens when the Persians were defeated in the Battle of Marathon (490 BC), but had shifted to the Persian side by the time of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC).
After the unexpected Athenian victory at Salamis, Rhodes hastily aligned itself with Athens once more, joining the Delian League in 477 BC. Following the disastrous Sicilian Expedition (416–412 BC), Rhodes revolted against Athens and hooked up with Sparta instead, aiding it in the Peloponnesian Wars. In 408 BC the cities of Kamiros, Ialysos and Lindos consolidated their powers, co-founding the city of Rhodes. Rhodes became Athens’ ally again to defeat Sparta at the Battle of Knidos (394 BC). Rhodes then joined forces with Persia to fight against Alexander the Great, only to attach itself to Alexander when he proved invincible.
In 305 BC Antigonus, a rival of Ptolemy, sent his formidable son, Demetrius Poliorketes – Besieger of Cities – to conquer Rhodes. When the city managed to repel Demetrius after a long siege, it built a 32m-high bronze statue of Helios Apollo to celebrate. Known as the Colossus of Rhodes, it was later hailed as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Rhodes now knew no bounds. It built the biggest navy in the Aegean, and its port became a principal Mediterranean trading centre. The arts also flourished. When Greece became the arena in which Roman generals fought for leadership of the empire, Rhodes allied itself with Julius Caesar. After Caesar’s assassination in 44 BC, Cassius besieged the city, destroying its ships and carting its artworks off to Rome. Rhodes went into decline and became part of the Roman Empire in AD 70.
Rhodes eventually joined the Byzantine province of the Dodecanese and was granted independence when the Crusaders seized Constantinople. Later, the Genoese gained control. Next to arrive, in 1309, were the Knights of St John, who ruled Rhodes for 213 years until being ousted by the Ottomans. They were in turn kicked out by the Italians nearly four centuries later. In 1947, after 35 years of Italian occupation, Rhodes finally became part of Greece, along with the other Dodecanese islands.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Diagoras Airport (RHO;
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%22410 88700; www.rhodes-airport.org) is near Paradisi on the west coast, 16km southwest of Rhodes Town.
Aegean Airlines (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 98345; www.aegeanair.com; Diagoras Airport; 
h4.30am-9pm) flies to Astypalea, Athens, Heraklion, Kalymnos, Kastellorizo and Karpathos, as well as Leros and Thessaloniki.
Olympic Air (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 24571; www.olympicair.com; Ierou Lohou 9) has connections with Athens and destinations throughout Greece, including several Dodecanese islands. Flights to the nearby islands of Kassos, Karpathos and Kastellorizo are more frequent than the corresponding ferries and, with fares starting at less than €65, only slightly more expensive.
Sky Express (%28102 23800; www.skyexpress.gr) flies up to six days a week to Heraklion on Crete (€80, one hour) and once weekly to Samos (€72, 45 minutes).
Boat
Domestic
Rhodes is the main port in the Dodecanese. Two inter-island ferry companies operate from immediately outside the walls of Rhodes Old Town. Dodekanisos Seaways (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 70590; www.12ne.gr; Afstralias 3, Rhodes Town) runs daily high-speed catamarans north up the chain, while Blue Star Ferries (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22461; www.bluestarferries.com; 111 Amerikis; h9am-8pm) provides slower and less frequent services to several of the same islands, continuing west to Astypalea and Piraeus. It also heads southwest to Karpathos, Kasos and Crete. Tickets are available at the dock and from travel agents in Rhodes Town.
The tiny port at Skala Kamirou, 45km southwest of Rhodes Town, has a daily ferry service to the island of Halki, operated by Nissos Halki (%mobile 6946519817, mobile 6973460968) and Nikos Express (%mobile 6946826905). There’s an hour-long connecting bus service with Rhodes Old Town.
In addition, daily excursion boats head to Symi from Mandraki Harbour in summer (day trips only, €25) while catamarans ( GOOGLE MAP ) to Turkey leave from Kolona Harbour. Check out the boats at the harbour before you decide which to take.
International
Catamarans connect Rhodes’ Commercial Harbour with Marmaris, Turkey (50 minutes), with two daily services in summer and two weekly in winter. Tickets cost €36 each way. Same-day returns cost €39, and longer-stay returns, €70. For schedules and bookings, visit www.rhodes.marmarisinfo.com.
Boat Services from Rhodes
| Destination | Port | Duration | Fare (€) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agathonisi* | Commercial Harbour | 5hr | 49 | 1 weekly |
| Astypalea | Commercial Harbour | 9hr | 24 | 1 weekly |
| Halki | Commercial Harbour | 2hr | 8 | 2 weekly |
| Halki* | Commercial Harbour | 1¼hr | 17 | 2 weekly |
| Kalymnos | Commercial Harbour | 6hr | 20 | 3 weekly |
| Kalymnos* | Commercial Harbour | 3hr | 39 | 1 daily |
| Karpathos | Commercial Harbour | 5hr 40min | 21 | 3 weekly |
| Kasos | Commercial Harbour | 8hr | 25 | 3 weekly |
| Kastellorizo | Commercial Harbour | 4hr 40min | 19.50 | 2 weekly |
| Kastellorizo* | Commercial Harbour | 2hr 20min | 37 | 1 weekly |
| Kos | Commercial Harbour | 5hr | 24.50 | 4 weekly |
| Kos* | Commercial Harbour | 2½hr | 32 | 1 daily |
| Leros | Commercial Harbour | 8hr | 32.50 | 3 weekly |
| Leros* | Commercial Harbour | 3½hr | 42 | 6 weekly |
| Lipsi | Commercial Harbour | 9hr | 24.50 | 1 weekly |
| Lipsi* | Commercial Harbour | 5½hr | 47 | 6 weekly |
| Nisyros | Commercial Harbour | 4hr | 13.50 | 2 weekly |
| Nisyros* | Commercial Harbour | 2¾hr | 27 | 2 weekly |
| Patmos | Commercial Harbour | 10hr | 37.50 | 3 weekly |
| Patmos* | Commercial Harbour | 5hr | 49 | 5 weekly |
| Piraeus | Commercial Harbour | 18hr | 63.60 | 1 daily |
| Samos | Commercial Harbour | 6hr 40min | 39 | 3 weekly |
| Sitia | Commercial Harbour | 11hr | 28 | 1 weekly |
| Symi | Commercial Harbour | 1hr 40min | 14 | 2 weekly |
| Symi* | Commercial Harbour | 50min | 18 | 1-4 daily |
| Tilos | Commercial Harbour | 2½hr | 13.50 | 2 weekly |
| Tilos* | Commercial Harbour | 2hr | 26 | 2 weekly |
* high-speed services
Rhodes Town Ρόδος
Pop 86,000
Rhodes Town is really two distinct and very different towns. The Old Town lies within but utterly apart from the New Town, sealed like a medieval time capsule behind a double ring of high walls and a deep moat. Nowhere else in the Dodecanese can boast so many layers of architectural history, with ruins and relics of the Classical, medieval, Ottoman and Italian eras entangled in a mind-boggling maze of twisting alleys. Strolling its hauntingly pretty cobbled lanes, especially at night, is an experience no traveller should miss. Half the fun is letting yourself get lost. The New Town, to the north, boasts upscale shops and waterfront bars servicing the package crowd, along with the city’s best beach, while bistros and bars lurk in the backstreets behind.
Inter-island ferries and catamarans use the Commercial Harbour, immediately outside the walls east of the Old Town, while excursion boats and private yachts are based at Mandraki Harbour, further north beside the New Town.
Rhodes Old Town
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
1Sights
Old Town
A glorious mixture of Byzantine, Turkish and Italian architecture, erected atop far more ancient and largely unidentifiable remains, the Old Town is a world of its own. In theory, it consists of three separate sections, though casual visitors seldom notice the transition from one to the next. To the north, sturdy stone mansions, known as inns, housed knights from various countries and line the arrow-straight streets of the Knights’ Quarter. These fabulously austere buildings were laid out by the medieval Knights of St John. South of that, the Hora, also known as the Turkish Quarter, is a tangle of cobbled alleyways that’s now the main commercial hub, packed with restaurants and shops as well as derelict mosques and Muslim monuments. The Jewish Quarter in the southeast, which lost most of its inhabitants during WWII, is now a sleepy residential district.
Although there’s no publichighl access to the imposing 12m-thick ramparts that encircle the Old Town, you can descend at various points into the broad moat that separates the inner and outer walls. Now filled with lush gardens rather than water, the moat makes for a great stroll and is ideal for picnickers.
Of the nine pyles (gateways) to the Old Town, the busiest and most dramatic are the northernmost two, closest to the New Town. Liberty Gate, the nearest to Mandraki Harbour and the taxi rank, leads to a small bridge and on towards the main tourist areas, while the atmospheric D’Amboise Gate, further inland, crosses an especially attractive section of the moat en route to the Palace of the Grand Master.
oArchaeological MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 65200; Plateia Mousiou; adult/child €8/free; h9am-3pm Mon, 8am-8pm Tue-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Tue-Sat Nov-Mar)
By far the best museum in the Dodecanese, this airy 15th-century former Knights' Hospital extends from its main building out into the beautiful gardens. Room after room holds magnificently preserved ancient treasures, excavated from all over the island and ranging over 7000 years. Highlights include the exquisite 'Aphrodite Bathing' marble statue from the 1st century BC, a pavilion displaying wall-mounted mosaics, and a reconstructed burial site from 1700 BC that held not only a helmeted warrior but also his horse.
Palace of the Grand MasterHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 65270, 22410 23359; €6; h8am-8pm May-Oct, 8am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr)
From the outside, the magnificent Palace of the Grand Master looks much as it did when erected by the Knights Hospitaller during the 14th century. During the 19th century, however, it was devastated by an explosion, so the interior as you see it today is an Italian reconstruction, completed in the '18th year of the Fascist Era' (1940). The dreary magisterial chambers upstairs hold haphazard looted artworks, so the most interesting section is the exhibit on ancient Rhodes downstairs.
Street of the KnightsHISTORIC SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Ippoton; h24hr)
Austere and somewhat forbidding, the Street of the Knights (Ippoton) was home from the 14th century to the Knights Hospitaller who ruled Rhodes. They were divided into seven ‘tongues’, or languages according to their birthplace – England, France, Germany, Italy, Aragon, Auvergne and Provence – each responsible for a specific section of the fortifications. As wall displays explain, the street holds an ‘inn’, or palace, for each tongue. Its modern appearance, though, owes much to Italian restorations during the 1930s.
Jewish Synagogue MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22364; www.rhodesjewishmuseum.org; Dosiadou; h10am-3pm Sun-Fri May-Oct)
F
During the 1920s, the Old Town's Jewish Quarter was home to a thriving Jewish community of around 4000 people. Tragically, 1673 Rhodian Jews were deported to Auschwitz in 1944 and it's now a time-forgotten neighbourhood of sleepy streets and dilapidated houses. Early-20th-century photos and intricately decorated documents in the Jewish Synagogue Museum tell the whole story. The museum adjoins Greece’s oldest synagogue, the 1577 Kahal Shalom Synagogue. Donations welcomed.
Muslim LibraryLIBRARY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Sokratous; h9.30am-3pm Mon-Sat May-Oct)F
This peaceful little library, founded in 1794, sits opposite the pink-domed Mosque of Süleyman ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sokratous), and houses over 2000 books in Persian, Arabic and Turkish. Among its treasures are couple of handwritten and beautifully illustrated copies of the Quran dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Donations welcomed.
Rhodes New Town
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
New Town
The so-called New Town of Rhodes has existed for 500 years, since Ottoman conquerors drove the local Greek population to build new homes outside the city walls. Almost nothing in the area, north of the Old Town and centred on Mandraki Harbour and the casino, though, holds any historic interest. Instead the New Town is a busy modern resort area, alive with guesthouses and restaurants, from gleaming hotel monoliths to tiny tavernas, along with banks, boutiques and all the businesses that keep Rhodes ticking along.
The town beach, starting north of Mandraki Harbour, stretches around the island’s northernmost point and down the west side of the New Town. The best spots tend to be on the east side, where there’s usually calmer water and more sand and facilities.
Modern Greek Art MuseumGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 43780; www.mgamuseum.gr; Plateia Haritou; €3; h8am-8pm Tue-Sat)
The main gallery of the Modern Greek Art Museum, near the New Town’s northern tip, holds paintings, engravings and sculptures by Greece's greatest 20th-century artists, including Gaitis Giannis, Vasiliou Spiros and Katraki Vaso. The museum's other three sites – the Nestoridi Building and the Centre of Modern Art, both in the New Town, and the original Art Gallery, in the Old Town – are currently closed because of a lack of available funding.
Rhodes AquariumAQUARIUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 27308; www.rhodes-aquarium.hcmr.gr; Kos 1; adult/child €5.50/3.50; h9am-8.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar)
The New Town’s modest aquarium is housed in an art deco building constructed by the Italians in the 1930s as a hydro-biological research station. Its interior is imaginatively kitted out like an underwater cave, and there are touch tanks where you can lay hands on rays, starfish and other squirming sea beasts. All the sea life featured here can be found in the Aegean, including the most recent acquisition – a lionfish caught by a fisherman just a few miles from here.
Acropolis of RhodesARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; h24hr)F
The site of the ancient Hellenistic city of Rhodes, now known as the Acropolis of Rhodes, stretches up the slopes of Monte Smith, 2km southwest of the Old Town. Restored structures include a tree-lined stadium from the 2nd century BC and the adjacent theatre, originally used for lectures by the Rhodes School of Rhetoric. Steps climb from there to the Temple of Pythian Apollo. Get here on city bus 5, or a stiff half-hour hike.
2Activities & Tours
The quay along Mandraki Harbour, on the east side of the New Town, is lined with boats offering all sorts of excursions, including day trips to island beaches, the island of Symi and to Turkey. There are also glass-bottomed boats for kids' rides around the harbour, and well-established PADI-licensed diving operators who advertise their businesses from their moored boats. New to the town is 9D: Throne of Helios, a terrific multi-sensory cinema experience.
Rhodes Segway ToursHISTORY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %6983245246, 22411 12409; www.rhodessegwaytours.com; Miltiadou 8, Old Town; €59; h9am-8pm; 
c)
S
A sightseeing experience unlike any other, this is a brilliant way to spare your energy and see more of the Old Town. It's a little bit sci-fi, rolling soundlessly past ancient buildings on your Segway with your expert guide chatting away as if it was perfectly normal! Tours last two hours. Training provided. Helmets required! Also does night tours (€85).
Rhodes Mystery Escape RoomESCAPE ROOM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 34660; www.rhodesmystery.com; Sofokleous 222; for two €40, for five €50; h10am-10pm; c)
Can you solve the mystery of the Grand Master's diamond? Or find the missing Italian pilot? It's hugely popular and great fun: you must find the clues to escape from one of two themed rooms – the Medieval Room or the Italian Room. There's a maximum of five sleuths per room, you have an hour to solve the mystery. Hidden down an alleyway beside Sofokleous.
Waterhoppers Diving CentreDIVING
(%22410 38146; www.waterhoppers.com)
Operating out of Mandraki Harbour and several other bases on the island, Waterhoppers offers an 'experience scuba' one-day program (€85) and a range of diving courses, including two- and three-day PADI open-water certifications. Choose from night, wreck and cave dives if you’re an advanced diver.
Trident Scuba Diving SchoolDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 29160; www.tridentdivingschool.com; Mandraki Harbour; c)
Trident offers a range of diving courses and dive spots around the north of the island. It also runs beginner classes and two- and three-day PADI-certified courses. Look out for Trident's boat, Armonia, on Mandraki Harbour for more info.
4Sleeping
The most magical sleeping options are all in the Old Town. In summer it’s essential to reserve ahead. In winter, most budget options close altogether. Be warned, too, that most Old Town hotels are not accessible by taxi, so you’ll have to haul your luggage along the narrow, cobbled lanes. Some hotels have golf carts in which to pick you up.
Old Town
Minos PensionPENSION€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 31813; www.minospension.com; 5 Omirou St; d/ste €46/80; 
a
i
W)
Family-run Minos, perched beside a disused windmill on a quiet lane on the south side of the Old Town, has well-appointed, if slightly old-fashioned, studio rooms with gleaming kitchenettes and fridge. The compelling attraction, though, is the fabulous rooftop cafe, a lovely spot offering superb Old Town views. Downstairs there's a cosy communal lounge and book exchange.
oMarco Polo MansionBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 25562; www.marcopolomansion.gr; Agiou Fanouriou 40; d incl breakfast €80-260; hApr-Oct; aW)
With its stained-glass windows, dark-wood furniture, wood floors and raised beds, Marco Polo lovingly recreates an Ottoman ambience with verve and style, and is unlike anything in the Old Town. This former 15th-century pasha's house, complete with its own harem (now a magical suite), is like a journey back in time. Breakfast is served in the stunning flowering courtyard.
The AndreasHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 34156; www.hotelandreas.com; Omirou 28d; ste incl breakfast €80; hMay–late Oct; aiW)
Nicely described by its Californian owner as a 'four-star hotel trapped in the soul of a small Greek pension', this former pasha's house has three suites each with two rooms. Best is the Tower Suite where you wake in your traditional raised bed to a view of the Aegean below, while the Terrace Suite has its own private sun terrace. Five-night minimum stay.
Antifanou ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 34561; Antifanouapartments@gmail.com; Antifanous 5-9; apt €90; aW)
These two well-equipped apartments and single studio are stylish and serenely cool courtesy of the original stone walls and arches. Also, for larger families, two of them can be interconnected. Each apartment has two separate bedrooms, a communal area in the kitchen and an outside communal terrace which, chances are, you'll have to yourself.
Evdokia HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 77077; www.evdokiahotel.com; Evdoxou 75; s/d/tr €70/85/150; aW)
Situated in a 13th-century building, this peaceful hotel has welcoming rooms with wrought-iron beds, cream walls, satellite TV, minibar and safety deposit boxes, based around a stunning high-ceiling lobby and breakfast room. The best of the rooms is a triple with its own staircase and roof terrace. Traditional Rhodian breakfast with homemade marmalade, zucchini and fruit costs €8 extra.
Hotel Cava d’OroB&B€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 36980; www.cavadoro.com; Kisthiniou 15; s/d/tr incl breakfast €110/130/160; 
paW)
Originally a storage building dating from the era of the Knights of St John, this small family-run hotel offers characterful rooms of varying sizes, with canopied beds, exposed stone walls and high arching ceilings. Breakfast is served in a cool garden courtyard, and guests can even walk on the hotel’s own short stretch of the Old Town walls.
oSpirit of the KnightsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 39765; www.rhodesluxuryhotel.com; Alexandridou 14; s/d incl breakfast from €160/200; 
naW)
This gorgeously finished boutique hotel has six stunning suites dripping with medieval atmosphere. Imagine thick rugs, dark woods, stained-glass windows and a sense of tranquillity. Perfectly isolated down a sidestreet close to the Old Town walls, this fine hotel is a work of passion and vision. There's a library and a fragrant garden courtyard to read in and take breakfast.
oIn Camera Art Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 77277; www.incamera.gr; Sofokleous 35; r/ste/villa incl breakfast €142/270/380; naW)
Sixteen years in the making, this stunning design hotel looks out on ancient ruins, and has four very different suites and two rooms, named after the exhibitions of the hotel's owner, a famous Greek photographer. The highlight is the 'Forms of Light' suite with three levels, stained-glass windows, beautifully finished bedrooms and two roof terraces. There's also a breakfast cafe and garden with Jacuzzi.
New Town
Hotel AnastasiaPENSION€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 28007; www.anastasia-hotel.com; 28 Oktovriou 46; s/d/tr €55/65/85; aiW)
The New Town’s friendliest and most peaceful accommodation option is found in a handsome villa set back from the road, with ochre-coloured rooms with wooden shutters, tiled floors and traditional furnishings. Some have private balconies and there’s an inviting breakfast bar in the lush garden. Owner Mihalis is welcoming.
Florida HotelHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22111; www.florida-rhodes.com; Amarandou 5; r from €50)
Small, simple, modern hotel in a quiet little pedestrian street towards the New Town's northern tip. Crisp, clean, whitewashed rooms have kitchenettes and air-con, and each has its own flower-bedecked terrace or balcony. Yvonne, the owner, is helpful and offers you her own hand-drawn maps of the area. A short walk to the beach.
5Eating
Old Town
oTaverna KostasGREEK€
(
MAP
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; %22410 26217; Pythagora 62; mains €7-10; h10am-late; a)
Run by grandfather Kostas, this is not only the friendliest and best-value restaurant in the Old Town but also one of the best. Forget the bare lime-washed walls and simple decor, eating here is like taking a place at the table of a friend – indeed, regulars set their own places! Serves succulent octopus salad, calamari, sea bream.
Old Town Corner BakeryBAKERY€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 38494; Omirou 88; snacks €2-6; h8am-9pm; W)
With jazz and aromatic arabica coffee drifting through this tiny bakery cafe and out onto street where there a few stools, this is an Old Town residents' favourite. Has amazing pastries – dawn-fresh croissants sell out very quickly – club sandwiches, baklava (filo pastry with nuts and honey), apple pie and a host of healthy juices.
To MarouliGREEK€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 04394; Platonos 22; mains €8-10; hnoon-10pm; aW
v)S
'Marouli' means lettuce, and in this stylish, veggie-only restaurant, that's exactly what you can expect: plenty of greens. But for the pasta, which comes from Italy, the menu changes daily – its dishes dependent on the availability of locally grown food. Some examples include vegan Thai pineapple and fried rice, gnocchi with saffron, and mushroom and zucchini strudel with salad.
Yianni'sGREEK€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 36535; yianis.restaurant@gmail.com; Socratous Platonos 41; mains €7-10; h10am-late; W)
Follow the songbird to the old lady dressed in colourful Karpathian garb and settle indoors by the mural of Atlantis, or sit al fresco to experience some of the best authentic Greek food in town. Alongside the usual favourites are dishes like youvesti (fried pork in tomato and wine sauce), and makarounes (Karpathian buttered pasta fried with onion).
FournarikoBAKERY€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 43057; Platonos; mains €7-12; h7am-late; aW)
While the main dining room serves up tasty Italian dishes, including pizza straight from the brick-bake oven, Fournariko is first and foremost a bakery, with alluring trays of sweet and savoury pies and filo pastries. Get here early morning for super-fresh bakes, grab a table outside and enjoy a spot of people-watching over coffee.
oMarco Polo CafeMEDITERRANEAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 25562; www.marcopolomansion.gr; Agiou Fanouriou 40-42; mains €12-25; h7-11pm)S
Don't be surprised if you are asked to taste a new wine or culinary creation, a possible new addition to the menu of regulars, such as skewered lamb with rosemary and pistachio, pork loin with figs, Greek risotto with sea bream, or octopus in sea-urchin sauce. It's served up with sincerity and style in a lemon-fragrant garden courtyard.
NireasSEAFOOD€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 21703; Sofokleous 45-47; mains €8-16; hlunch & dinner; a)
Nireas’ status as one of Rhodes’ favourite seafood restaurants owes much to the sheer verve of genial owner Theo, from Symi – that and the beautifully prepared food, served beneath a vine-shaded canopy outside, or in the candlelit, lemon-walled interior. Be sure to sample the Symi shrimp, salted mackerel and, if you’re in the mood, the 'Viagra' salad of small shellfish.
PetaladikaGREEK€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 27319; Menakleous 8; mains €8-15; hnoon-late)
Petaladika might look like just another tourist trap, tucked into a corner just off the main drag, but with its fresh, white, wood interior and chic tables and chairs out front, it's a hot favourite with locals, and a mainstay of the Old Town dining scene. Try the deep-fried baby squid, zucchini balls and freshly grilled fish.
HatzikelisSEAFOOD€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 27215; www.hatzikelis.gr; Alhadef 9; mains €10-25; aWc)
With its candelabra and velvet finery, Hatzikelis is patronised by gourmands and Hollywood Grecophiles who return to savour the sea urchin, scallops, lobster, swordfish and freshly caught grouper. Ask to see what the fishers have caught, bathed in ice in huge silver refrigerators. There's also terrific cutlets and steak, and a vast wine selection. Surprisingly good value.
New Town
KoykosGREEK€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 73022; http://koukosrodos.com; Mandilana 20-26; mains €3-10; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; aW)
This inviting complex, off a pedestrian shopping street, consists of several antique-filled rooms – a couple hold vintage jukeboxes – along with two bougainvillea-draped courtyards and a floral roof terrace. Best known for fabulous homemade pies, it also serves all the classic mezedhes (small plates), plus meat and fish dishes, or you can drop in for a coffee or sandwich.
NiohoriTAVERNA€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 35116; I Kazouli 29; mains €8-12; hnoon-midnight)
éThis simple, great-value taverna – the open courtyard is basically a garage – delivers with a meat-accented menu. The owner is a butcher, with a shop across the street, so he selects the best cuts. Tuck into veal liver with oil and oregano, stifadho (meat with onions in a tomato purée), steak and meatballs, seasoned with organ music from the nearby church.
oMeltemiTAVERNA€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 30480; Kountourioti 8; mains €10-15; hnoon-late; pac)
From the outside, Meltemi is unspectacular. Step into its nautically themed interior, however, and try to resist its seafood treasures: octopus, jumbo prawns, lobster, huge portions of calamari as well as feisty salads, all delivered with gusto. Add to this wide-screen sea views and you can see why it's one of best seafront spots in the New Town.
KerasmaGREEK€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 02410; www.kerasmarestaurant.com; George Leontos 4-6; mains €15; hnoon-11.30pm; aW)
This contemporary restaurant has an open, stylish setting and offers Greek fusion food with dishes like grilled octopus dipped in honey and beef fillet with purple gnocchi. There's also an impressive cellar of 60 different Greek wines. An injection of taste for the New Town.
BalsamicoFUSION€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 75967; Akti Miaouli 4-6; mains €10; h11am-11pm; aW)
Expect well-executed Greek dishes and Italian numbers like pizza and pasta at this sea-facing restaurant with an eclectic twist; think orange and blue walls, a ceiling of suspended bottles and reclaimed driftwood sculptures. Spiro makes a great host and there's live music some nights.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Old Town
oRaxati CafeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 363651; Sofokleous 1-3; h10am-late; W)
Overlooking stunning Ibrahim Pasha Mosque, this high-ceilinged free-spirited bar and coffee house is as pretty as it is friendly. Its stone walls are peppered with vintage ad posters, there are recycled Singer sewing machine tables, and graceful chandeliers cast light across the stunning bar of glass spirits. Snacks, cocktails, easy tunes and good conversation.
Rogmi Tou ChronouBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 25202; Plateia Arionos 4; h6pm-5am; W)
If Dracula developed a taste for rock music and decided to open a bar it might look something like Rogmi Tou Chronou. Imagine purple velvet drapes, a handsomely crafted wood bar lit with spirits, stained-glass windows, and the odd candle to stop you bumping into the furniture in the crow-black darkness. Live rock on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Macao BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %6936400305; www.macaobar.gr/en; Pl Arionos; h8pm-6am Fri & Sat)
Uber-stylish bar hidden in the Old Town; expect moody, low-lit ambience, polished concrete floors and the occasional guest DJ spinning the decks to a well-heeled crowd of fashionistas. Try the herb flavoured cocktails (€8).
Rock & RollBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 25202; Plateia Arionos 2; mains €8; h9am-late; Wc)
Cool diner-style haunt with metro-tiled walls and '50s songs playing as you plant yourself at the bar, fix your quiff in the mirror and tuck into a burger. It doubles as a juice bar during the day. Great balls of fire!
New Town
While there’s a very lively drinking scene in the New Town, centred on bar-lined I Dragoum, there’s no great reason to recommend any of its many tourist-dominated hang-outs over their identical neighbours.
MethexiBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Akti Miaoúli 12; h10am-late; W)
Methexi means 'theatrical event' in Ancient Greek, and this boho, fiercely indie haunt honours its namesake with live music on a Friday night from 9.30pm onwards. Sit outside on the terrace for watching sunsets or within the burnt-peach interior graced with retro typewriters, antique piano and musical miscellany.
Christos GardenBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 32144; Griva 102; h10pm-late)
With its grotto-like bar and pebble-mosaic courtyard, Christos offers New Town visitors a tranquil escape. During the day it doubles as an art gallery; after dark the fairy lights twinkle. Perfect for a cocktail.
3Entertainment
o9D: Throne of HeliosFILM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 76850; www.throneofhelios.com; Martiou 2; adult/child €13/9; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun; Wc)
Journey back to the birth of Rhodes in this 3D experience. History is brought to life with the aid of hydraulic chairs, falling rain, snow and bubbles. Amazing visuals recreate the Colossus of Rhodes' construction, the citadel's creation under the Knights of St John, and more – up to the present day.
Cafe ChantantLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 32277; Dimokratou 3; h11pm-late Fri & Sat)
Locals flock to sit at the long wooden tables here and listen to live traditional Greek music while drinking ouzo or beer. It’s dark inside and you won’t find snacks or nibbles, but the atmosphere is warm-hearted and friendly and the band is always lively.
7Shopping
Amid the typical souvenir tat, the Old Town is fillled with quality keepsakes: Moorish lamps, icons, anthracite classical busts, leather sandals, belts and bags, silver jewellery, olive wood chopping boards, Rhodian wine, and local thyme honey. The New Town is more prosaic with grocery shops, general stores and a clutch of big-name fashion and style brands.
oRodoscope Creative GalleryCERAMICS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %6972202138; Ippodamou 39; h10am-10pm)
This tasteful boutique has a collection of one-off bracelets, beach-bum-chic jewellery, driftwood sculpture, handmade T-shirts and fine ceramics. Only the work of Rhodian artists features here. Out back there's a peaceful courtyard to admire your gifts over a cool drink from the cafe. Ask about the courses run here.
Antique GalleryARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %22414 00126; Omirou 45; h9am-9pm)
Best viewed by night, this Aladdin's cave of a shop conjures up thoughts of the Arabian Nights, with its shiny brass lamps, ornate antique rings and Eastern mosaic lights glowing like clusters of fireflies.
8Information
Medical Services
Euromedica General Hospital (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 45000; www.euromedica-rhodes.gr; Koskinou) The largest private health facility on the island, with English-speaking staff. It's 6km south of the Old Town, in Koskinou.
General Hospital (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 60000; Andreas Papandreou; h24hr) State-of-the-art hospital, but bear in mind public hospital funding – waiting times have been severely affected by the Greek economic crisis.
Rhodes Medical Care Private Clinic (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 38008; www.rmc.gr; Krito Building, loannou Metaxa 3) Will treat you for any emergency provided you have health insurance. Excellent staff and facilities.
Money
You’ll find plenty of ATMs throughout Rhodes Town, with useful ATM-equipped branches of Alpha Bank next door to the Old Town tourist office and on Plateia Kypriou in the New Town. The National Bank of Greece has a conveniently located office in the New Town ( GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Kyprou, New Town), as well as a branch on Plateia Mousiou in the Old Town.
Police
Emergencies & Ambulance (%166)
Port Police (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22220; Mandraki Harbour)
Tourist Police (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 27423; h24hr)
Post
Main Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 35560; Mandraki Harbour)
Tourist Information
EOT (Greek Tourist Information Office;
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 44335; www.ando.gr/eot; cnr Makariou & Papagou; h8am-2.45pm Mon-Fri) National tourism information, with brochures, maps and transport details.
Rhodes Tourism Office – New Town (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 35495; www.rhodes.gr; Plateia Rimini; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Conveniently poised between Mandraki Harbour and the Old Town; efficiently run with lots of free brochures and helpful staff.
Rhodes Tourism Office – Old Town (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 35945; www.rhodes.gr; cnr Platonos & Ippoton; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri) In an ancient building at the foot of the Street of the Knights, this helpful office supplies excellent street maps, leaflets and brochures.
Travel Agencies
Skevos Travel Agency (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22461; www.skevostravel.gr; 111 Amerikis; h9am-8pm) For help with airline and ferry tickets throughout Greece.
Triton Holidays (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 21690; www.tritondmc.gr; Plastira 9, Mandraki Harbour; h9am-8pm) Air and sea travel, hire cars, accommodation and tours throughout the Dodecanese, as well as tickets to Turkey.
8Getting Around
Bicycle
Bicycles are available for rent from Margaritis in the New Town.
Boat
The quay at Mandraki Harbour is lined with excursion boats offering day trips to east-coast towns and beaches, including Faliraki and Lindos, and also to the island of Symi.
Several islands can be visited as day trips on Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans, departing from the Commercial Harbour. These include Symi and Kos (both daily), Halki and Tilos (both twice weekly), and Kastellorizo (once weekly).
Bus
Two bus terminals, a block apart in Rhodes Town, serve half the island each. There is regular transport across the island all week, with fewer services on Saturday and only a few on Sunday. Pick up schedules from the kiosks at either terminal, or from the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) office.
The Eastern Bus Terminal (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 27706; www.ktelrodou.gr) has frequent services to the airport (€2.40), Kalithea Thermi (€2.20), Salakos (€4.30), Ancient Kamiros (€5.20) and Monolithos (€5.20). From the Western Bus Terminal (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 26300) there are services to Faliraki (€2.40), Tsambika Beach (€3.90), Stegna Beach (€4.40) and Lindos (€5.20).
In Rhodes Town, local buses leave from the urban bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mandraki) on Mandraki Harbour. Bus 11 makes a circuit around the coast, up past the aquarium and on to the Acropolis. Bus 2 goes to Analipsi, bus 3 to Rodini, bus 4 to Agios Dimitrios and bus 5 to the Acropolis. Buy tickets on-board.
Car & Motorcycle
All the major car-rental chains are represented at Rhodes airport, and plenty more car- and motorcycle-rental outlets are scattered throughout Rhodes Town and the resorts. Competition is fierce, so shop around. Several agencies will deliver vehicles to renters.
Drive Rent A Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 81011, 22410 68243; www.driverentacar.gr; 1st Km Tsairi-Airport; h8am-9pm) Sturdier, newer scooters and cars.
Margaritis (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 37420; www.margaritisrentals.gr; I Kazouli St 17; h24hr) Reliable cars, scooters and bicycles in the New Town.
Orion Rent a Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 22137; www.orioncarrental.com; Leontos 38) A wide range of small and luxury cars.
Taxi
Rhodes Town’s main taxi rank ( GOOGLE MAP ) is east of Plateia Rimini, on the northern edge of the Old Town. There are two zones on the island for taxi meters: zone one is Rhodes Town and zone two (for which rates are slightly higher) is everywhere else. Rates double between midnight and 5am. Set taxi fares are posted at the rank.
You can also phone for a taxi (%in Rhodes Town 22410 69800, outside Rhodes Town 22410 69600; www.rhodes-taxi.gr) or disabled-accessible taxi (%22410 77079).
Note that taxis cannot access most locations in the largely pedestrianised Old Town; expect to be dropped at the gate nearest your destination. A few upscale hotels have golf buggies to pick you up in.
Northeastern Rhodes
Most of the sandiest beaches on Rhodes lie along the island’s northeastern coast, between Rhodes Town and Lindos. As a result, this stretch is now punctuated by a long succession of resorts, filled with package holidaymakers in summer and holding endless strips of tourist bars.
Ladiko Beach, 15km south of Rhodes Town, just beyond Faliraki, is touted locally as ‘Anthony Quinn Beach’. Back in the 1960s, the star of Zorba the Greek actually bought the beach from the Greek government, but according to his family the authorities failed to honour the sale. It consists of two back-to-back coves, with a pebbly beach on the north side that’s better for swimming, and volcanic rock platforms on the south side.
Two fine beaches, Kolymbia and Tsambika, are located either side of the massive Tsambika promontory, 10km further south. Both are sandy but get crowded in summer. Not far beyond, the coast road curves inland, but a short detour seawards brings you to the low-key little resort of Stegna, arrayed along sandy, idyllic Stegna Beach.
The headland that marks the start of the final curve towards Lindos, 40km south of Rhodes Town, is topped by the ruins of the 15th-century Castle of Faraklos. Once a prison for recalcitrant knights, this was the last stronghold on the island to fall to the Turks and now offers fabulous views. A footpath climbs from the appealing little resort of Haraki, immediately south, where the neat horseshoe bay is lined by a pebbly beach.
1Sights
Kalithea ThermiARCHITECTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 65691; www.kallitheasprings.gr; Kalithea; €3; h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar; c)
Italian architect Pietro Lombardi constructed this opulent art deco spa, on the site of ancient thermal springs, in 1929. Its dazzling white-domed pavilions, pebble-mosaic courtyards and sweeping sea-view colonnades have appeared in movies such as Zorba the Greek and The Guns of Navarone, and have now been restored after years of neglect. In peak season its small sandy bathing beach and cafe get impossibly crowded.
Just 9km south of Rhodes Town, it can be accessed by driving directly along the coast.
Epta PigesSPRING
(Seven Springs;
GOOGLE MAP
; Kolymbia; h24hr; c)F
Seven natural springs at this beauty spot, in the hills 4km inland from Kolymbia, feed a river that’s channelled into a narrow tunnel, exactly the size of an adult. Thrill-seeking visitors can walk a few hundred metres in pitch darkness, ankle-deep in fast-flowing water, to reach the shaded lake at the far end.
Lindos Λίνδος
Pop 3600
Your first glimpse of the ancient and unbelievably pretty town of Lindos is guaranteed to steal your breath away: the towering Acropolis radiant on the cypress-silvered hill, and the sugar-cube houses of the whitewashed town tumbling below it towards the aquamarine bay. Entering the town itself, you'll find yourself in a magical warren of hidden alleys, packed with the ornate houses of long-vanished sea captains that now hold appetising tavernas, effervescent bars and cool cafes. Pick your way past donkeys as you coax your calves up to the Acropolis and one of the finest views in Greece.
Lindos has been enjoying its wonderful setting for 4000 years, since the Dorians founded the first settlement at this excellent harbour and vantage point. Since then it has been successively overlaid with Byzantine, Frankish and Turkish structures, the remains of which can be glimpsed all around.
1Sights & Activities
Two magnificent beaches line the crescent harbour that curves directly below the village. The larger, logically known as Main Beach, is a perfect swimming spot – sandy with shallow water – for kids. Follow a path north to the western tip of the bay to reach the smaller, taverna-fringed Pallas Beach. Don’t swim near the jetty here, which is home to sea urchins, but if it gets too crowded you can swim from the rocks beyond.
Ten minutes’ walk from town on the other, western, side of the Acropolis, sheltered St Paul’s Bay is similarly caressed by turquoise waters.
oAcropolis of LindosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22413 65200; adult/concession/child €12/6/free; h8am-7.40pm Tue-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat-Mon Apr-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)
A steep footpath climbs the 116m-high rock above Lindos to reach the beautifully preserved Acropolis. First walled in the 6th century BC, the clifftop is now enclosed by battlements constructed by the Knights of St John. Once within, you’re confronted by stunning ancient remains that include a Temple to Athena Lindia and a 20-columned Hellenistic stoa. Silhouetted against the deep blue sky, the stark white columns are dazzling, while the long-range coastal views are out of this world.
Be sure to pack a hat and some water, as there’s no shade at the top, and take care to protect young kids from the many dangerous drop-offs. Donkey rides to the Acropolis from the village entrance only spare you around three minutes of exposed walking on the hillside, and you should note that animal-rights groups urge people to consider the treatment of the donkeys before deciding to take a ride.
oLepia DiveDIVING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6937417970; www.lepiadive.com; c)
This brilliantly inclusive dive company has a range of options including PADI courses for kids, beginners and those already at an advanced level. The centre's facilities are adapted for wheelchairs and there are expertly designed dives certified by DDI (Disabled Divers International) for people with additional needs. Choose from reef, wreck and cave dives. Free pick-up.
4Sleeping
Accommodation in Lindos is very limited, so be sure to book in advance. And check carefully, as most hotels that include ‘Lindos’ in their names and/or addresses are in fact located not in the town, but along the coast nearby.
Electra StudiosPENSION€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 31266; www.electra-studios.gr; studios €50; hApr-Oct; aW)
Simple family-run pension, where the plain, but very pleasant, whitewashed rooms have varnished wooden twin beds, fridges and air-con. Some have balconies and there’s also a lovely communal roof terrace overlooking a lemon grove and the sea.
Anastasia StudiosAPARTMENT€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 31417, 6970977696; www.lindos-studios.gr; d & tr €60; paW)
Focused around a geranium-filled courtyard on Lindos' eastern side, these six split-level apartments enjoy soaring Acropolis views. Each has a tiled floor, sofa bed, well-equipped kitchen and separate bedroom, while room 6 has its own private balcony.
oMelenosBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 32222; www.melenoslindos.com; ste incl breakfast from €370; aiW)S
Magical Moorish-style palace with bougainvillea walkways, pebble-mosaic floors, verandas festooned in lanterns and bauble lights casting a glow on Ottoman furniture. Staff glide discreetly around as you soak up the stunning bay view. Rooms are lovingly re-created in traditional Lyndian style, with raised beds, wooden ceilings and private balconies, and there's a superb restaurant.
F Charm HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 32080, 6944339937; www.lindosfinestaying.com; r incl breakfast from €140; aW)
This enclosed courtyard accommodation holds half a dozen heavenly white rooms and family-sized suites. All have shabby-chic distressed furniture, wood-beamed ceilings and traditional raised-platform beds with Cocomat mattresses, plus fridge and kitchenette. It’s next to the police station, at the south end of town.
5Eating
Most tavernas serve their customers on roof terraces high above the tangle of streets. These give fabulous views up to the Acropolis and over the bay, but mean you can’t always tell whether there’s anyone in your chosen venue until you’ve already committed to eat there.
Captain’s HouseCAFE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; snacks €7; h8am-midnight; aW)
Soaked in Lyndian atmosphere, this nautically themed, 16th-century sea captain's house is perfect for a juice on your way down from the Acropolis. Grab a pew in the pebble-mosaic courtyard and ponder the fabulous carved stone reliefs in the courtyard.
Village CafeBAKERY€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 31559; www.lindostreasures.com; mains €8; h8.30am-7pm; aWc)
Near the start of the path up to the Acropolis, this whitewashed bakery-cafe has an enticing vine-covered pebble-mosaic courtyard and comfortable couches in its cool interior. Drop in for hot or frozen coffee, juice or ice cream, and a mouthwatering array of cheese cakes, cherry pies, salads, wraps and freshly prepared sandwiches. Don’t miss the delectable bougatsa (vanilla custard pie).
oCalypsoTAVERNA€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 32135; www.kalypsolindos.gr; mains €13; h11am-midnight; aW)
This former sea captain's residence with its beautiful stone relief is perfect for lunch or dinner on the roof terrace or inside. Sea bass, octopus, makarounes (homemade pasta served with fresh onions and melted local cheese) and grilled lamb chops are but a few of the delights.Try the ‘Kalypso bread’ with feta and tomato.
MelenosMEDITERRANEAN€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 32222; www.melenoslindos.com; mains €26; h8am-midnight; W)
Gorgeous sea-view terrace restaurant overlooking Pallas Beach. The menu features salmon marinated in ouzo, steamed sea bass with mussels in asparagus sauce, and grilled beef fillet with mushrooms, wine and caramelised onions. Round things off with a sumptuous dessert.
8Information
Lindos Tourist Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 31900; Plateia Eleftherias; h9am-3pm) Small information kiosk at the entrance to central Lindos.
Island Of The Sun Travel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22440 31264; Acropolis; h9am-5pm) Local excursions, rental cars and accommodation.
Southeastern Rhodes
As you continue south of Lindos along the east coast, the island takes on a windswept appearance and sees less tourist traffic. Villages here seem to have a slower pace.
Just 2km south of Lindos, sandy Pefki Beach is deservedly popular. If it’s too crowded, try Glystra Beach, just down the road and a great spot for swimming.
Sleepy one-street Gennadi consists of a few kafeneia (coffee houses), friendly locals and a cluster of whitewashed buildings set back a few hundred metres from the pebbled beach. You’ll find a fruit market, bakery, supermarket and a couple of tavernas.
An almost uninterrupted beach of pebbles and sand dunes extends down from Gennadi as far as Plimmyri, 11km south. Watch for a signposted turning to Lahania, 2km inland off the main highway, and head downhill into the centre to find an old village of winding alleyways and traditional buildings.
The coast road continues south past countless chapels to the village of Kattavia, a friendly place that doesn’t see a lot of tourists. Beyond that, a windswept 10km road snakes south to remote Cape Prasonisi, the island’s southernmost point. Joined to Rhodes by a tenuously narrow sandy isthmus in summer months, it’s cut off completely when water levels rise in winter. The Aegean Sea meets the Mediterranean here, creating ideal wind and wave conditions for kitesurfers and windsurfers. Outfitters stand ready to help with everything from rental equipment and lessons to overnight accommodation in surfer-dude-style hostels, but it all closes down in winter. To get here direct from the airport by taxi costs around €120 and takes 1½ hours.
2Activities
Pro Center Kristof KirschnerADVENTURE SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22400 91045; www.facebook.com/procenterc.kirschner; hMay-Oct; c)
Specialising in windsurfing equipment rental and classes.
4Sleeping & Eating
oFour ElementsAPARTMENT€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6939450014, 22440 46001; www.thefourelements.be; Lahania; apt €110-165; paiW
s)
Four exceptionally homey and spacious apartments, perfect for taking a rural holiday in comfort. All have full kitchens, one is adapted for wheelchair users, and there’s a divine pool, outdoor barbecue and garden. Minimum two nights. The friendly Belgian owners run an on-site cafe-bar named the Fifth Element (beer being the fifth element after earth, air, fire and water).
Taverna PlatanosTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6944199991; www.lachaniaplatanos.com; Lahania; mains €6-8; aW)
Classic village taverna, tucked behind the church in Lahania's tiny main square and famed throughout the island. With its traditional decor and flower-filled patio, it’s a great place to take a break. Hearty lamb, beef or chicken stews cost well under €10, with salads and dips less than half that.
Mama’s KitchenPIZZA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Gennadi; mains €7-10; a)
Check out the murals of ancient myths as you munch Olympian portions of grilled meat like lamb and beef.
Western Rhodes & the Interior
Western Rhodes is redolent with the scent of pine, its hillsides shimmering with forests. More exposed than the east side, it’s also windier – a boon for kitesurfers and windsurfers – so the sea tends to be rough and the beaches mostly pebbled. If you’re cycling, or have a scooter or car, the hilly roads that cross the interior are well worth exploring for their wonderful scenery.
For sightseers, the most significant potential stopoffs are the ruined ancient cities of Ialysos and Kamiros. Otherwise, once past the airport, settlements are few and far between. Skala Kamirou, 45km southwest of Rhodes Town, is a small port with direct ferries to the nearby island of Halki. Although it does have a couple of tavernas, and a twice-daily bus service, it’s so isolated that it’s much more use to locals than independent travellers.
The ruins of 16th-century Kritinia Castle stand proudly on a headland immediately south of Skala Kamirou. Detour off the main road for awe-inspiring views along the coast and across to Halki, in a magical setting where you half expect to encounter Romeo or Rapunzel.
Continuing south, the road is sublimely scenic. Vast mountainous vistas open up as you approach Siana, a picturesque village below Mt Akramytis (825m), and the village of Monolithos, 5km beyond. The spectacularly sited 15th-century castle that's perched on a sheer 240m-high rock above Monolithos can be reached on a dirt track. To enter, climb through the hole in the wall.
1Sights & Activities
oPetaloudesFOREST
(Valley of the Butterflies;
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 82822; €5; h9am-5pm; c)
Petaloudes, 7km up from the coast, is better known as the Valley of the Butterflies. Visit in June, July or August, when these colourful insects mature, and you’ll quickly see why. They’re actually tiger moths (Callimorpha quadripunctarea) drawn to the gorge by the scent of the resin exuded by storax trees. In summer the whole place is choking with tour buses. Out of season, you’ll likely have the gorgeous forest path, streams and pools to yourself – but no butterflies.
Ancient KamirosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 40037; €6; h8am-7.40pm May-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Apr; c)
The extensive remains of the Doric city of Kamiros stand above the coast, 34km southwest of Rhodes Town. Known for its figs, oil and wine, Kamiros was at its peak in the 7th century BC, but was swiftly superseded by Rhodes and devastated by earthquakes in 226 BC and 142 BC. Visible ruins include a Doric temple, with one column still standing, a temple to Athena and a 3rd-century great stoa. Come in the afternoon, when fewer visitors are around.
Ancient IalysosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 92202; €6; h8.30am-8pm May-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Apr; c)
Constructed in the 3rd century BC, atop what’s now Filerimos Hill, 10km southwest of Rhodes Town, the Doric city of Ialysos was repeatedly conquered. The resultant hotchpotch of Doric, Byzantine and medieval remains is now barely intelligible to casual visitors. Stairs from the entrance lead to the ruined foundations of the Temple of Athena Ialysia and the peaceful restored 14th-century Chapel of Agios Georgios. Follow the path left from the entrance to reach another 12th-century chapel, filled with frescoes.
Emery WineryWINERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 41208; Embonas; h9.30am-4.30pm Apr-Oct)F
Perched on the flanks of Mt Attavyros (1215m), the island’s highest mountain, the village of Embonas is the wine capital of Rhodes. This cottage winery, on the town's eastern edge, offers tours of its facility and provides a good opportunity to taste and buy top-quality tipples such as the red Cava Emery or Zacosta and the white Villare.
5Eating
MylosCAFE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6940641475; Kritinia; snacks €5-7; h9am-late)
Set beside the main road, with tremendous views down to Kritinia Castle, this welcoming little cafe serves coffee, drinks and snacks such as salads, omelettes and sandwiches. Best of all, though, it has its own folklore museum, filled with local costumes and alarming farming implements.
To Stolidi Tis PsinthoyTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22410 50009; Psinthos; mains €8-10; hlunch & dinner)
The pick of several appealing lunch spots in lively Psinthos, 10km southeast of Petaloudes, To Stolidi has a deeply rural feel with wooden beams, chequered tablecloths and family photos on the walls. Try the spicy pork, grilled eggplant, dolmadhes and fresh-baked country bread.
Halki ΧΑΛΚΗ
Pop 310
Thanks to the gorgeous Italianate mansions that surround its harbour, the former sponge-diving island of Halki makes an irresistible first impression. Stepping off the ferry, you enter a composite of all that’s best about Greece: an old fisherman shelling prawns under a fig tree, an Orthodox priest flitting down a narrow alley, brightly painted boats bobbing along the quay. There’s little to do except relax and indulge in the sleepy splendour, venturing out to tempting little beaches lapped by aquamarine waters and, in cooler months, hiking along the island’s spectacular high-mountain spine.
8Getting There & Away
The Dodekanisos Seaways catamaran stops at Halki on Tuesday and Thursday as it heads from Rhodes to Tilos, Nisyros, Kos and Kalymnos in the morning, and back to Rhodes in the evening. On those days, you can visit the island as a day trip from Rhodes. Blue Star Ferries connects Halki with Rhodes up to three times weekly, and with Karpathos, Kasos, Crete, Santorini and Piraeus twice weekly.
Two boats, Nissos Halki and Nikos Express, link Halki daily with the tiny port of Skala Kamirou on the west coast of Rhodes; there’s an hour-long connecting bus service with Rhodes Old Town. Stelios Kazantzidis (%mobile 6944434429) runs an on-demand water-taxi service to Skala Kamirou.
Boat Services from Halki (Emborios)
| Destination | Port | Duration | Fare (€) | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kalymnos* | Emborios | 3hr | 36 | 2 weekly |
| Karpathos | Emborios | 4hr | 13 | 3 weekly |
| Kos* | Emborios | 2¼hr | 26 | 2 weekly |
| Nisyros* | Emborios | 1½hr | 24 | 2 weekly |
| Piraeus | Emborios | 24hr | 44 | 2 weekly |
| Rhodes | Emborios | 2hr | 8 | 3 weekly |
| Rhodes* | Emborios | 1¼hr | 18 | 2 weekly |
| Rhodes (Skala Kamirou) | Emborios | 1¼hr | 11 | 1-2 daily |
| Santorini (Thira) | Emborios | 12hr | 26 | 1 weekly |
| Tilos* | Emborios | 40min | 24 | 2 weekly |
*high-speed services
8Getting Around
Most visitors get around Halki on foot. In summer, regular minibuses connect Emborios with Pondamos, Ftenagia and Kalia beaches (€1.50 each way), while on Friday evenings there’s also a round trip to Moni Agiou Ioanni monastery (€5). A water taxi also serves the main beaches, while Zifos Travel can provide details of summer-only excursion boats, for example to the uninhabited island of Alimia (€30), with its fields of wild herbs.
Emborios Town Εμπορειός
Pop 300
Halki’s one tiny town curves luxuriantly around a sheltered turquoise bay. The waterfront is a broad expanse of flagstones, almost entirely pedestrianised, populated by as many cats as humans and lined with enticing tavernas and cafes. Climbing in tiers up a low ridge, the cream, ochre, stone and rose-hued homes of 19th-century fishermen and sea captains form a magnificent backdrop. There’s no town beach, but here and there ladders enable swimmers to enter the water.
1Sights
The neoclassical mansions of Emborios are a visual feast. A few have crumbled into complete ruination, but most have been restored to their original glory and many now serve as rental properties.
The impressive central clock tower was donated by the expat Halki community in Florida; the clock itself hasn't worked for over 20 years. Nearby, the Church of Agios Nikolaos has the tallest belfry in the Dodecanese, incorporating stones from an ancient temple of Apollo, and boasts a picturesque mosaic-pebbled courtyard.
Traditional House of ChalkiHISTORIC BUILDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 45284; €3; h11am-3pm & 6-8pm)
Perched on the hillside, not far up from the harbour (signed to the right off the road to Pondamos Beach), the Traditional House of Chalki – an alternative transliteration of Halki – is a two-storey family home, built a century ago. It’s now meticulously preserved as a museum, displaying authentic furniture, tableware and costumes, old photos – and even the underwear of the owner’s grandmother, neatly framed.
4Sleeping & Eating
Halki holds little accommodation, so book ahead in summer. Most visitors stay in self-catering villas and apartments; contact Zifos Travel or Nissia Holidays (www.nissiaholidays.com) for details.
Captain’s HousePENSION€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6932511762, 22460 45201; capt50@otenet.gr; d €40; aW)
Attractive white-painted 19th-century house just up from the sea, near the church, featuring antique clocks and model schooners. Two lovely rooms have high ceilings, wood floors, air-con and good bathrooms, and the relaxing garden courtyard holds a sun terrace with great harbour views.
oAretanassa HotelHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 70927; www.aretanassahotel.cosmores.com; Harbour; d/tr incl breakfast €90/115; aW)
This wine-coloured former sponge factory has 19 gloriously sunny, sea-facing rooms with powder-blue walls, large beds and spotless tiled floors. Some rooms have balconies. There's a lovely restaurant and bar, and a sun terrace over your very own azure Mediterranean swimming pool. There's also a lift and access for those with additional needs.
Taverna LefkosiaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6946978151; mains €7-12; hlunch & dinner)
Much-loved taverna, where the check-clothed tables and blue chairs spread out onto the quay and the menu abounds in hom-made island specialities such as baked pasta. The fried cheese balls are a crispy, chewy delight, and fresh-caught fish comes in generous portions.
Black SeaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 45021; Harbour; mains €8-14; hlunch & dinner; aW)S
Sitting peacefully on the left side of the harbour, metres from bobbing boats, this brightly coloured haunt is run by a charming Georgian family. It's a great spot for fresh fish, from octopus and little shrimp to grilled bream, but the vegetable dishes, including fried mushrooms, are also good.
Dimitri’s BakeryBAKERY€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Harbour; mains €3; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Generations of Halki residents and visitors have stocked up on Dimitri's delicious sweet and savoury pies and pastries, available from early morning. Cheese, spinach and apple pies, plus croissants and – in the evening – slices of pizza.
8Information
The only ATM is often out of action, so bring plenty of spare cash.
Police & Port Police (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 45220) On the harbour.
Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; h9am-1.30pm Mon-Fri) On the harbour, with an ATM.
Zifos Travel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22460 45028; www.zifostravel.gr; h10am-8pm) The best source of help with accommodation, boat tickets, excursions and currency exchange.
Around Halki
A broad concrete road crosses the low hill above Emborios harbour to reach Pondamos Beach, the most popular of Halki’s handful of tiny shingle beaches, after 500m. Beyond that, it climbs to the abandoned village of Horio, 3km along, then continues west to the hilltop monastery of Agiou Ioanni. That’s a total one-way hike of 8km, recommended in the cooler months only.
Two more pebble beaches, both equipped with decent tavernas and served by buses in summer, lie within walking distance of Emborios. Ftenagia Beach is beyond the headland 500m south of the harbour, while Kania Beach is an enjoyable but unshaded 2.5km hike north, signposted off the main road halfway to Pondamos.
1Sights
Pondamos BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Pretty little Pondamos Beach is lapped by the turquoise waters of a crescent bay 10 minutes’ walk up and over the hill west of Emborios. The only way to get a comfortable shaded spot is to rent a €3 sunbed alongside Nick’s Taverna (
GOOGLE MAP
; Pondamos Beach; mains €6-15; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; W), where separate sections serve good seafood meals, and drinks and snacks.
HorioARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( GOOGLE MAP )
A stiff switchback climb along the road from Pondamos Beach leads up through Halki’s fertile central valley to Horio. This picturesque ruin was originally the island’s main village, hidden away to escape the eyes of roving pirates. A freshly cobbled footpath heads up to the battlements of the Knights of St John Castle that once protected it. Pass through its forbidding gateway to see a restored chapel and amazing long-range views.k
Karpathos ΚΑΡΠΑΘΟΣ
Pop 6200
Celebrated for its wild mountains and blue coves, this long craggy island is among the least commercialised in Greece. Legend has it Prometheus and his Titans were born here, and with its cloud-wrapped villages and rugged beauty, there’s still something undeniably primal in the air. Homer, never a man to mince his words, called it 'Krapathos', but actually it’s a lovely island.
Popular with adrenaline junkies, southern Karpathos is in the spotlight each summer when it hosts an international kitesurfing competition. Meanwhile, the fierce wind that lifts the spray from the turquoise waves blows its way to the mountainous north, battering pine trees and howling past sugar-cube houses. Karpathian women at this end of the island still wear traditional garb, especially in the time-forgotten village eyrie of Olymbos, perched atop a perilous mountain ridge.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The airport at the very southern tip of Karpathos is linked by Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) two to four times daily with Athens (€70, one hour).
Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) has daily links between Karpathos and Rhodes (€68, 40 minutes), and once daily with Kasos (€56, 15 minutes) and Sitia (€87, one hour) on Crete.
Boat
The island’s main port, Pigadia, is served by Blue Star Ferries, with all sailings also calling at the northern village of Diafani either before Pigadia (when southbound) or after it (when northbound). Ferries head three times weekly to Halki and Rhodes, and three times weekly to Kasos, with two continuing to Crete and one to Santorini.
Boat Services from Karpathos
| Destination | Port | Duration | Fare | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Halki | Pigadia | 4hr | €13 | 3 weekly |
| Kasos | Pigadia | 1½hr | €8 | 3 weekly |
| Milos | Pigadia | 16hr | €38 | 1 weekly |
| Piraeus | Pigadia | 17hr | €44 | 2 weekly |
| Rhodes | Pigadia | 5hr 40min | €21 | 3 weekly |
| Santorini (Thira) | Pigadia | 8hr | €27 | 1 weekly |
| Sitia | Pigadia | 4hr | €19 | 2 weekly |
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The airport is 14km south of Pigadia. From late July to September, an 11.30am bus on Thursday and a 10.30am bus on Saturday go to the airport (€2.50), making the return journey on both days at 5pm. A taxi will cost €22. Given the size of the island it makes sense to rent a car. All major car-rental chains have outlets at the airport.
Boat
Day trips head from Pigadia up to Diafani, where they connect with buses to Olymbos, or continue north to remote beaches.
Bus
KTEL (www.karpathosbus.wordpress.com) runs buses all over the island from the bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22338; M Mattheou, Pigadia) in Pigadia, just up from the harbour. Only two a week go all the way north to Olymbos.
Car
All major car-rental chains have outlets at the airport, and there are local agencies all over the island. Recommended operators include Europcar (%22450 23238; www.europcar.com), Pegasus Motorbikes (%mobile 6979794727; per day from €18.50; h9am-1pm & 5-8pm), Rent A Car (%22450 22911, 22450 22690; 28 Oktovriou) and Lefkos Rent A Car (
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 6984466346, mobile 6977918774, office 22450 71030; www.lefkosrentacar.com; Lefkos).
Taxi
Taxi prices are posted at Pigadia’s central taxi rank (%22450 22705; Dimokratias). Fares are prohibitively high, with trips to Lefkos costing €50 and Olymbos €75.
Pigadia Πηγάδια
Pop 1690
Karpathos’ capital and main ferry port, Pigadia sprawls beside a long bay on the southeast shore of the island. Decent beaches stretch away to the north, but the town itself lacks the photogenic good looks and geometrically pleasing whitewashed houses of other islands. Give it a little time, though, wandering its harbour and among waterfront bars and backstreet bakeries, and the place may grow on you. Determinedly Greek, it barely looks up from its afternoon retsina to acknowledge your arrival. But isn’t that what travellers sometimes long for?
4Sleeping
Budget options are concentrated in the hillside streets that rise from central Pigadia, while newer and more luxurious options spread northwards around the curve of the bay.
Rose’s StudiosAPARTMENT€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22284; www.rosesstudios.com; r €35; aW)
For good-value budget lodgings, it’s well worth trudging 300m up from the port to reach these eight simple but fresh rooms. They have clean bathrooms, large sea-view balconies and decent fittings, including minimal kitchenettes.
Nereides HotelHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 23347; www.nereideshotel.gr; Nereidon St; d incl breakfast €130; paWs)
This charming little hotel has been open a few years, but everything, from the paintwork to its up-to-the-minute bathrooms, still gleams like new. Set on the hillside, five minutes’ walk from the beach and 10 minutes from the harbour, it offers 30 stylish rooms with sea-view balconies, plus a good pool. There's a snack bar, but no restaurant.
Atlantis HotelHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22777; www.atlantishotelkarpathos.gr; s/d incl breakfast €50/55; s)
Friendly, long-established, family-run hotel across from the Italian-era town hall just above the west end of the harbour. The pleasant, no-frills rooms are nicely maintained – it’s well worth paying a little extra for one with a balcony facing the sea rather than the (decent-sized) pool.
5Eating
Both the quay and the pedestrian streets just behind it are lined with seafood tavernas, all-purpose brasseries, cafes and cocktail bars. Look out, too, for the two Italian gelaterias on Apodimon Karpathion, parallel to the harbour.
oTo EllenikonTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 23932; Apodimon Karpathion; mains €10-17; hlunch & dinner; aWv)
If you're looking for typical Karpathian food cooked the way it should be then 'the Greek' is your place. Try saganaki (fried cheese), meatballs, shrimp and calamari, eat within the wood-accented traditional interior or outside on the narrow terrace. The owner is a lovely guy and will happily show you the kitchen.
OreaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22501; Harbour; mains €7-15; hnoon-midnight)
Quayside taverna near the ferry jetty, serving authentic Karpathian specialities such as makarounes (homemade pasta with caramelised onions and cheese). Most meat mains cost under €10, and a whole grilled fish is more like €12 to €14.
AkropolisBRASSERIE€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 23278; Apodimon Karpathion; mains €15-25; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; aW)
This welcoming harbour-front cafe/-restaurant is as suited to breakfast or a sunset cocktail as it is to a full dinner. Most customers are drawn here for steak rather than Greek food, with the menu ranging through T-bone, fillet, sirloin and rib-eye up to a delectable chateaubriand for two (€50).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Caffe KarpathosCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %21022 87383; www.cafekarpathos.com; Apodimon Karpathion; h8am-late; W)
Enjoying a morning coffee or evening glass of local wine in the wicker chairs outside this cosy little cafe, a few steps from the waterfront on a pedestrian street that climbs away near the jetty. You feel as though you’re relaxing in the front room of a friend’s house. The owners lived for years in Italy, hence the Italian touches.
En PloCOCKTAIL BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; cocktails €6; h8am-late)
Low-lit En Plo is a quiet place to read and sip on special coffee made with honey and whipped cream.
8Information
Pigadia’s ferry quay juts out from the eastern end of the broad harbour. Walk east to reach the town centre within five minutes. Follow the main street, Apodimon Karpathion, which climbs from the waterfront then runs parallel to the sea, and in 500m you’ll reach Plateia 5 Oktovriou, home to the Italian-era municipal buildings. The sandy beaches of Pigadia Bay begin not far beyond.
Both the National Bank of Greece on Apodimon Karpathion, and Alpha Bank, a block higher on Dimokratias, have ATMs.
Police (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22224) Near the hospital at the western end of town.
Possi Travel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 22235; Harbour; h8am-1pm & 5.30-8.30pm) The main travel agency for ferry and air tickets, excursions and accommodation. The helpful staff speak excellent English.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ethnikis Andistasis) Near the hospital.
Tourist Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.karpathos.org; hJul & Aug) Summer-only kiosk, in the middle of the seafront.
Southern Karpathos
Thanks to their sandy beaches, several appealing villages in the southern half of Karpathos have reinvented themselves as small-scale resorts. Peaceful villages nestle amid the hills inland, an area that’s criss-crossed by scenic walking tracks.
Menetes Μενετές
Buffeted by mountain gales, the tiny village of Menetes sits high in the cliffs above Pigadia. Climb to the church at its highest point before exploring its narrow whitewashed streets.
1Sights
Folklore MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6985847672; Menetes; h9am-1pm & 5-8pm)F
Spend a few minutes walking around Menetes and you’re sure to run into Irini, custodian of the keys to the ancient chapel that houses this two-room museum. Having unlocked it, she’ll talk you through its haphazard treasures and point you towards the tunnels in the hillside nearby, used by German troops in WWII. Donations welcomed.
5Eating
Dionysos FiestaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 81269; mains €6-10; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; aW)
Set in a restored traditional house, in the twisting village lanes just up from the main road, this relaxed and welcoming taverna spreads onto a raised garden terrace. Local specialities to savour include goat stew, lemon chicken, artichoke omelettes and succulent Karpathian sausages.
Arkasa Αρκάσα
Arkasa, on the southwest coast 9km from Menetes, is one of the oldest settlements on Karpathos. The original village centre, just up from the water, is now complemented by a burgeoning beach resort below. A waterside track leads 500m to the remains of the 5th-century Basilica of Agia Sophia, where two chapels stand amid mosaic fragments and columns, and to an ancient acropolis on the headland beyond.
The best beach hereabouts, sandy Agios Nikolaos Beach, stretches south from the acropolis, but to reach it by road you have to turn left from the village itself.
4Sleeping
oGlaros StudiosAPARTMENT€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 61015; www.glarosstudios-karpathos.com; Agios Nikolaos Beach, Arkasa; apt €50-55; pW)
This well-managed and ever-expanding garden-set complex pretty much has Agios Nikolaos Beach to itself. There are spotless white studios, decorated in traditional Karpathian style with raised platform beds and small kitchenettes, plus a relaxed and good-value adjoining restaurant.
Eleni StudiosAPARTMENT€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 61248; www.elenikarpathos.gr; Arkasa; apt €60; paWs)
On the road to Finiki, Eleni Studios has fully equipped and very tidy powder-blue apartments with appealing bedrooms, built around a relaxing garden. There's an on-site bar, too, for sunset drinks and breakfast, and a very tempting pool. Great sea views.
Arkasa Bay HotelHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 61410; www.arkasabay.com; Arkasa; d €100; aWs)
Plush Arkasa has fine rooms with kitchenette, flat-screen TVs and, best of all, a great swimming pool.
Finiki Φοινίκι
Arrayed along a neat little south-facing crescent bay, picturesque Finiki stands just 2km north of Arkasa. White-and-blue houses, interspersed with a peppering of tavernas, front its sleepy harbour and small grey-sand beach. The best local swimming is at Agios Georgios Beach, a short way south towards Arkasa.
4Sleeping & Eating
Pine Tree StudiosAPARTMENT€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %6977369948; www.pinetree-karpathos.gr; Adia; apt €50-70; a)
Some 9km north of Finiki, just before the road winds uphill to Lefkos, are the secluded Pine Tree Studios. These comfortable studios with views over to Kasos make for a quiet rural retreat and include an excellent restaurant specialising in dishes cooked in a wood oven. Taste the katsiki stifadho (goat in red-wine sauce). The studios are equipped with fridge and kitchenette. There's also free shaded camping.
Marina TavernaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 61100; Finiki; mains €6-16; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; aW)
Laid-back taverna with an expansive terrace surveying the gentle turquoise bay just metres from the waterfront. Enjoy inexpensive breakfasts, snack lunches and an enjoyable seafood-accented evening menu featuring squid, crab and grilled meats.
Lefkos Λευκός
This is the largest but also the prettiest of the low-key west-coast resorts, 20km north of Finiki and a 5km detour down from the main road. Lefkos is here for a very good reason – its curving sandy beach is absolutely delightful. This is the kind of place where two weeks can vanish in gentle wanderings between beach and brunch.
While Lefkos is connected by bus with Pigadia, it’s definitely worth renting a car or scooter through Lefkos Rent a Car while here.
4Sleeping & Eating
Le Grand BleuHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 71009; www.karpathos-legrandbleu.com; Lefkos; studio/apt €85/120; paW)
Very nicely equipped studios and two-bedroom apartments beside the graceful main beach, kitted out with crisp fresh linen, tasteful art and sumptuous balconies with cushioned armchairs. The recommended on-site tavern closes at 10pm to let guests sleep.
DramountanaTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 71373; Lefkos; mains €6-15; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Part of a cluster of four similar cafes-tavernas with waterside tables at the northern end of Lefkos harbour, this all-day cafe serves everything from fresh juices and coffee to fish soup, grilled squid, roast lamb and souvlakia.
Northern Karpathos
Locals often describe Karpathos as being two distinct islands, with its rugged, mountainous and astonishingly beautiful northern half in stark contrast to the fertile, low-lying south. That said, the east-coast road starts to climb as soon as you head north from Pigadia and the scenery turns ever more spectacular. Only within the last decade has the route been sealed all the way to the far north, with the unfortunate effect that the once-isolated village of Olymbos has become swamped with day trippers in summer. Olymbos is still a magnificent place, though, most memorably reached by taking a boat to Diafani from Pigadia, then catching a connecting bus. And it’s still worth spending a few nights here too, especially if you fancy some high-mountain hiking, or swimming at remote beaches.
Diafani Διαφάνι
Pop 250
Diafani is an intimate, wind-blasted huddle of white houses fronted by cobalt-blue water, with a mountain backdrop. Bar the crash of the waves and old men playing backgammon, nothing else stirs. Most travellers simply pass through Diafani, so if you stay you’ll likely have the beaches and trails to yourself. There’s no bank, post office, petrol station or ATM, so bring cash and fuel.
2Activities
Hiking trails from Diafani village are waymarked with red or blue markers or stone cairns. The most popular route heads inland, straight up the valley to Olymbos. That takes around two hours – though inevitably some prefer to catch a bus uphill and walk back down. Alternatively, a 50-minute track leads 4km north along the coast, through the pines, to Vananda Beach, which has a seasonal taverna.
A more strenuous three-hour walk takes you 11km northwest to the Hellenistic site of Vroukounda, passing the agricultural village of Avlona along the way. There are no facilities, so carry food and water with you.
Anyone planning serious walking should get hold of the 1:60,000 Karpathos-Kasos map, published by Terrain Maps (www.terrainmaps.gr) and available in Pigadia. For advice on current conditions, call in at the Environment Management Office on Diafani's seafront before you set off.
1 Sleeping & Eating
Balaskas HotelHOTEL€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 51320; www.balaskashotel.com; s/d from €35/45; aW)
You have a choice here of either 'economy' rooms (essentially pension-style minimalism with white walls and wood beds) or 'standard', which feature more colour and flair – think romantic mozzie nets and wrought iron beds. Some have kitchenettes, all have fridges. It's a five- to ten-minute walk from the seafront.
The owners operate two excursion boats and offer a free beach trip for each guest.
La GorgonaITALIAN€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Harbour; mains €7-10; h9am-late)
If you're looking for a breezy spot to gaze at the sea, listen to cool tunes, drink quality coffee and digress from Greek to Italian food, La Gorgona may tick all your boxes. Owners Gigi and Sofia prepare tasty pasta dishes like carbonara and seafood spaghetti as well as a selection of pizza. Don't miss the desserts either: tiramisu and chocolate strudel.
CoraliTAVERNA€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 51332; mains €7-12; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Run by Popi and Mihalis, this is probably the best spot for fresh, tasty traditional fare. Try their delicious stifadho (meat, game or seafood cooked with onions in a tomato purée) or eggplant salad. Vegetables are sourced locally. Service is slow but the quality of the food and filoxenia (hospitality) make up for it.
8Information
Environment Management Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) Advice on current conditions for anyone planning some serious walking on the island.
Orfanos Travel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %mobile 6974990394; at Nicos Hotel; h8am-1pm & 5.30-8.30pm; W) Runs boat trips and sells ferry and air tickets.
8Getting There & Away
Blue Star Ferries calls in at Diafani’s small jetty three times weekly heading for Halki and Rhodes, and three times weekly en route towards Pigadia and Kasos (two of which continue to Crete and one to Santorini). There are also day trips by boat to Pigadia in summer, as well as assorted excursions. Tourist coaches carry day trippers from the jetty up to Olymbos. There are two scheduled buses on weekdays, one of which continues to Pigadia on Friday only, and one on weekends.
Buses run to Olymbos then on to Pigadia every other day at 3.45pm.
DON'T MISS
OLYMBOS ΌΛΥΜΠΟΣ
Few moments can beat rounding a curve in the mountain road to receive your first glimpse of this mist-blown eyrie of pastel-coloured houses. Olymbos clings precariously to the summit of Mt Profitis Ilias (716m), as if flung there by a Titan’s paw. Thread your way along its wind-tunnel alleys, passing old ladies in vividly coloured traditional dress, and you may feel as though you’ve strayed onto a film set. Many locals even speak with a dialect that still contains traces of ancient Dorian Greek.
It's considered to be the most traditional of all places in Greece; Olymbos' local ladies still wear their stunning hand-spun jackets and floral headgear. And the views – 'jaw-dropping' just doesn't cover it – will leave you spellbound as the earth plunges dramatically metres from your feet. Try and arrive in late afternoon or early morning to have the place to yourself.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel OlymbosGUESTHOUSE€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 51009; r incl breakfast €45)S
Hidden away beneath the owners’ excellent street-level restaurant, these three little studios have raised beds and traditional furnishings. Tread carefully; the walls are festooned with delicate decorated plates. Ask to see the family’s carefully preserved blacksmith shop alongside.
Hotel AphroditeHOTEL€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %22450 51307; www.discoverolympos.com; d €45; W)
This hotel is located just beyond the central square at the far end of Olymbos. It has two rooms with two single beds, and two rooms with three. All are bright, airy and attractively decorated, but above all – literally – they have astonishing west-facing sea views.
Edem GardenTAVERNA€
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €6-9)
Village taverna with a broad mountain-view terrace, check-cloth tables and a menu featuring delicious rural specialities such as makarounes, country sausage and local goat stifadho, along with pizzas and salads. And yes, maybe the name should really be ‘Eden’, but it isn’t.
