Astypalea ΑΣΤΥΠΑΛΑΙΑ

Pop 1300

Swathed in silky aquamarine waters, far-flung, butterfly-shaped Astypalea is richly rewarding for walkers, campers and history buffs. For any island hunter, this is the ultimate escape – think mountainous meadows straight from the pages of Homer, and rugged beaches fringed in vivid blue water. Chance of sighting a mermaid: fair to middling.

The island’s main settlement, hilltop Hora, is a tumble of bleached-white houses cascading down from a medieval fortress to the fishing port of Skala. Although boutique hotels have been sprouting here in recent years, the tourist infrastructure – and ferry service – remains minimal, and most visitors are Greek, with the rest largely French and Italian. Fed up with the package crowds, Irish bars and fish and chips? You’ve come to the right place.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) has three flights a week from Leros (€62, 25 minutes), Kalymnos (€62, one hour 40 minutes) and Kos (€74, one hour 40 minutes), and three per week from Athens (€134, one hour). Buy tickets online, or via Astypalea Tours.

Boat

Only two ferry operators serve Astypalea.

Blue Star Ferries arrive, inconveniently, in the dead of night at the isolated little port of Agios Andreas, 6.5km north of Skala. A bus is scheduled to meet each boat, but don’t bank on it. One ferry arrives four times weekly, having sailed from Piraeus via Paros, Naxos and Amorgos, and sets off back along the same route a couple of hours later. The other stops once in each direction en route between Piraeus and Rhodes, calling also at Kalymnos, Kos, Tilos and Nisyros.

ANisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) connects Skala's small harbour once weekly with Kalymnos.

Boat Services from Astypalea

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Kalymnos	Agios Andreas	2½hr	12.50	1 weekly
Kalymnos	Skala	3½hr	15	1 weekly
Kos	Agios Andreas	4hr	15	1 weekly
Naxos	Agios Andreas	4hr	20	4 weekly
Paros	Agios Andreas	5½hr	34	4 weekly
Piraeus	Agios Andreas	8½hr	35	5 weekly
Rhodes	Agios Andreas	9hr	24	1 weekly

8Getting Around

Astypalea’s airport is on the flat, narrow 'neck' of the island, 8km northeast of Skala. Buses connect with flights in summer, while taking either of the island's two taxis (%mobile 6975706365) to Skala costs around €10. Summer buses also link Skala with Hora and Livadi to the west, and Analipsi/Maltezana to the east, stopping at beaches en route (€2). Of the island’s three vehicle-rental agencies, Vergoulis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61351; www.rent-a-car-astypalaia.com; per day scooters €15, cars €30-60; h8am-10pm) is particularly recommended.

In July and August, boats head out for the day from Skala to the remote western beaches of Agios Ioannis, Kaminakia and Vatses, as well as to the islets of Koutsomytis (with ethereal, emerald-green water) and Kounoupa. They also make complete circuits around the island. Contact Astypalea Tours for details.

Skala & Hora Σκάλα & Χώρα

Pop 1036

Astypalea’s main town, Skala, lies on the southern shore of the island’s western half, curving around an attractive bay that’s too shallow for large inter-island ferries. Little more than a village, with aromatic odours drifting from its bakery, Skala holds a small sand-and-pebble beach that’s popular with locals. Bars and tavernas punctuate the quay, which is the sole preserve of old sea dogs in low season, but surprisingly lively on summer evenings.

Modern visitors delight in the sheer beauty of the old settlement of Hora looming above, its white houses spilling down the hillside beneath its impressive kastro (castle). For the original inhabitants of Skala, however, the upward migration was prompted by the endless threat of marauding pirates. These days Hora is a delightful maze to explore. Stroll around the hushed tangle of streets and climb up to the fort. Suitably exhausted, you can then relax in the clutch of inviting kafeneia (coffee houses) and tavernas alongside the restored Cycladic-style windmills that mark the village entrance.

1Sights & Activities

KastroCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Hora; hdawn-dusk)F

Astypalea’s imposing castle was built by the Venetian Quirini family early in the 15th century. For the next 300 years, up to 4000 people lived within this ever-expanding precinct, sheltered from pirate attacks. Its last inhabitants left in 1956, after an earthquake caused the stone houses integrated into its walls to collapse. The only entrance is through a gateway that burrows beneath the Church of the Virgin of the Castle; the magical Church of Agios Georgios lies beyond.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61500; Skala; €2; h9am-1pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep)

Skala's small archaeological museum, set back from the sea at the start of the road up to Hora, holds treasures found across the island, from earliest times up to the Middle Ages. Highlights include grave offerings from two Mycenaean chamber tombs and a little bronze Roman statue of Aphrodite.

ThalassopouliBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6974436338; Pera Gialos, Skala; per person €15; hJun-Sep; c)

Run by Captain Yiannis, Thalassopouli leaves Skala at 11am and returns you glowing and salty at 6pm after a day's swimming around two uninhabited neighbouring islands: Kounoupi, with its golden isthmus of sand, and Kousomyti, outlined in purest aquamarine. Food is available (€7). Take plenty of sunscreen.

4Sleeping

Reservations are essential in July and August. The finer boutique options are in Hora.

oStudios KilindraBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61131; www.astipalea.com.gr; Hora; d/apt incl breakfast €130/150; aiWs)S

Just below the kastro (castle), this enchanting boutique hotel has a swish pool with a terrace overlooking the mouthwash-green bay. The lobby is scattered with eclectic antiques as well as a grand piano, while studios and larger maisonettes fuse the contemporary with the traditional, featuring split-level floors, raised beds, sofas and kitchenettes. Massage, acupuncture and herbal treatments are also available.

Mariakis StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 62072; www.mariakis.gr; Hora; s/d from €60/70; aW)

Four attractive, spotlessly white apartments adjoin a family home just steps from the heart of Hora. Island-style touches include traditional furnishings and exposed stone walls, while the spacious terraces enjoy great sea views. The breakfasts are superb.

Akti RoomsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61114; www.aktirooms.gr; Skala; d/studio incl breakfast €80/85; aW)

Waterside Akti, facing Hora from the east side of Skala, has traditionally themed rooms with ornate lights, dark-wood chests and traditional crockery. Most but not all have sea views, and the studios have kitchenettes. Swim from the private platform or chill in the stylish cafe.

Hotel ParadissosHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61224; www.astypalea-paradissos.com; Skala; d/tr from €80/95; aW)

Stately and peaceful, Paradissos is so close to the harbour you can taste salt on your lips. Its 18 dazzling-white sea-view rooms hold desks and private balconies. There's also a great cafe and attached travel agency.

5Eating

BarbarossaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61577; Hora; mains €10; hlunch & dinner; aWv)S

You can't miss this friendly taverna, serving food with soul along the main approach to Hora, with a buzzing terrace near the town hall. Inside are exposed stone walls covered with antique Greek poster girls, and there are amazing views to the rear. Menu highlights like pork fillet with prunes, mussels and grilled shrimps ensure you won't be disappointed.

Agoni GrammiTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61988; Hora; mains €8-12; hlunch & dinner)

It's the outdoor terrace that first catches the eye here, close to Hora's landmark windmills, but the whitewashed interior is equally appealing at night, stippled by stone flags and lit with red pendant lights. As well as homemade pasta and pizza, this island favourite is renowned for its fish soup and traditional kokoretsi (kebab of lamb innards).

MaïstraliTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61691; Skala; mains €8-12; h10am-late; aWv)

Tucked one street back from the harbour, near the stairway to heaven (well, Hora, anyway), this stylish restaurant dishes up everything from zucchini balls, lamb chops and eggplant salad, to grilled shrimp saganaki (shrimp in fried cheese) and rabbit in tomato sauce.

8Information

Astypalea Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61571; www.astypaleatours.gr; Skala; h6-9pm) For air and ferry tickets and boat excursions.

Paradise Travel Agency ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61224; paradisostravel@yahoo.gr; at Hotel Paradissos, Skala) Books ferry tickets.

Emporiki Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 59890; Skala) The island's only bank, with an ATM, is on the waterfront.

Municipal Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61412; www.astipalea.org; Hora; h6-9pm Jun-Sep)

For history, pictures, facilities and sights go to www.astypalaia.com.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61207, 22430 61206; Skala) In an Italianate building on the waterfront.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61208; Skala) Shares premises with the police.

Post Office (%22430 61223; Hora) At the top of the Skala–Hora road.

Livadi Λειβάδι

Astypalea’s most popular beach, Livadi Beach stands at the mouth of a lush valley in the first bay south of Hora. An easy 20-minute walk down from the old town, it’s also served by local buses. In summer it’s effectively transformed into a buzzing little resort, with a string of funky restaurants and bars lining the waterfront.

4Sleeping & Eating

Villa BarbaraAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61448; www.villabarbara.gr; Livadia; s/d €40-45; a)

Set in flowering gardens, these mint-fresh white studios have tiled floors and balconies with sea views. The sea is less than a 100m away.

Fildisi HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 62060; www.fildisi.net; Livadi; studios from €140; aWs)

Split into terraces, this boutique dream has for its centrepiece an infinity pool accompanied by a juice bar and marvellous view of the sea. The breakfast/chill room is chic, while the 10 rooms, each named for a precious gem, enjoy private balconies, kitchenettes and sea views, as well as mini-bar, fridge, and flat-screen TVs with cable.

Mouras StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61127; www.mourastudios.gr; Livadi; studio/apt €75/85; hMay–mid-Oct)

Radiating off a beachfront courtyard, these seven stunning whitewashed studios vary in size, but all have stylish dark-wood furniture, kitchenettes and private balconies. Full-on sea views cost a few euros extra.

AstropelosGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61473; Livadi; mains €10-15; h8am-midnight; aWv)

First-class dining by the beach, on a decked verandah with chic white tables and a menu that includes octopus salad, breaded crab’s pincers and lobster. French lounge tunes under the shade of tamarisk trees accompany the view of Hora on the hilltop horizon.

West of Skala

West of Skala, you swiftly hit the Astypalea outback – gnarled, bare rolling hills, perfect for a Cyclops. There’s scarcely a sealed road to speak of, but it’s just about possible to drive. Cross the western massif by heading directly inland from Hora and, from the point where the road finally peters out after 8km, where the Kastro ruins and Moni Agiou Ioanni stand proudly cheek by jowl above the shoreline, energetic walkers can hike down to Agios Ioannis Beach. Alternatively, follow the track that branches northwards shortly before road’s end and you’ll probably have Panormos Beach to yourself.

The rough track that winds along the southern coast west of Livadi, on the other hand, leads through mountainous meadows to several remote beaches. First along the way, reached on a brief detour, is the pretty, tree-shaded Agios Konstantinos Beach on the south side of Livadi Bay. This beach and Kaminakia Beach in the far west, where the track reaches its terminus, hold excellent seasonal tavernas. Book-ended by granite boulders, Kaminakia is Astypalea’s best altar to sun worshipping, boasting water so clear you can see the pebbles through the turquoise.

5Eating

Sti LindaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6932610050; Kaminakia Beach; mains €5-10; hJul-Sep)S

From the Stavros junction a rough track winds upwards to the shepherd's hut on the mountain spine and then an extremely rough track (take care) winds downwards to Kaminakia Beach, lapped by stunning turquoise water. Here you're also rewarded with a good seasonal restaurant, Sti Linda, which rustles up hearty fish soups, oven-baked goat and homemade bread. Make it a day trip.

East of Skala

The slender isthmus that links Astypalea’s two 'wings' holds some of the island’s most popular beaches. Each of the three bays at Marmari, just 2km northeast of Skala, has its own pebble-and-sand beach, right beside the road. Steno Beach, another 2km along, is sandy, shady and conveniently shallow for kids. The name means 'narrow', with the isthmus being a mere 100m wide near this spot.

The only resort area away from Skala, Analipsi is a pleasantly laid-back place that spreads through a fertile valley alongside the airport, 8km northeast of Skala. Also known as Maltezana, having once been the lair of Maltese pirates, it’s grown recently thanks to long Analipsi Beach to the southeast, which offers sand, pebbles, shade and clean, shallow water. Nearby the remains of the Tallaras Roman baths still hold some mosaics.

Almost no one lives on Astypalea’s eastern half. The only settlement is the remote hamlet of Mesa Vathy, tucked into the shelter of an enormous bottleneck bay and home to barely half a dozen families. A summer yacht harbour, it doesn’t have a decent beach.

4Sleeping & Eating

Camping AstypaleaCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6973037710, 22430 61900; www.astypalaiacamping.gr; Marmari; campsites per adult/tent €7/2; hJun–early Sep; pW)

Shaded by tamarisk trees and shielded by bamboo groves, this summer-only campground is located next to Marmari beach, which unfortunately means it’s also right beside the road. Fortunately this is Astypalea, so there are hardly any cars. It has 24-hour hot water, safety deposit boxes, kitchen, barbecue, cafe and minimarket, and provides free transport from the port to the campground.

Hotel Maltezana BeachAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61558; www.maltezanabeach.gr; Analipsi; s/d incl breakfast €75/90; paWs)

Ideal for families, this welcoming hotel stands amid manicured gardens a few metres from the beach. There are fresh, spacious rooms with balconies, in white-cubed blocks set around a fine pool, plus good home cooking in the restaurant. For a room with a sea view you'll have to cough up an extra €10.

Galini CafeCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 61201; Mesa Vathy; mains €3-7; hJun-Oct)

At remote Mesa Vathy hamlet you can dine at the laid-back Galini Café, which offers meat and fish grills and the odd oven-baked special.

Kalymnos ΚΑΛΥΜΝΟΣ

Pop 16,000

Rugged Kalymnos is characterised by its dramatic mountains that draw hardy climbers from all over the world. Its western flank is particularly spectacular with skeletal crags towering above dazzling blue waters. The island is also greener than most of its neighbours, cradling fertile valleys dotted with beehives and bursting with oleander. Add to this the enticing, car-free islet of Telendos, immediately offshore, and you begin to see why the island is fast becoming a must-visit destination.

While its sponge-fishing heyday is long past, Kalymnos remains inextricably entwined with the sea, particularly in its capital and main ferry port, Pothia, where you’ll still find stalls piled high with unearthly looking sponges, and a statue of Poseidon surveying the harbour. As Pothia is a working town, it’s more restful to stay in the smaller west-coast settlements such as Emborios and Myrties, or over on Telendos.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kalymnos’s airport, 6km northwest of Pothia, is served by daily Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) flights to and from Athens (€140, one hour), Leros (€55, 15 minutes) and Kos (€55, 20 minutes). Connecting buses meet flights in summer.

Boat

Kalymnos’s main ferry port, Pothia, is linked by daily Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans with Kos, Rhodes, Leros, Patmos and other nearby islands. Blue Star Ferries connects Pothia with Piraeus, Kos and Rhodes three times weekly, and with Astypalea and Symi once or twice weekly.

Nisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) runs three to four times weekly to and from Leros, Lipsi, Patmos and the islets to the north, and also connects Kalymnos once weekly with Skala on Astypalea.

The Kalymnos Star and Kalymnos Dolphin (www.anekalymnou.gr) run several times daily between Pothia and Mastihari on the north shore of Kos, as does ANEM (www.anemferries.gr). Several excursion boats offer day trips from Kos Town to Pothia.

In addition, the little resort of Myrties on Kalymnos’ west coast is connected three times weekly with Lipsi and Agia Marina on Leros by Anna Express (www.annaexpress.eu), and five times weekly with either Xirokambos (€10) or Pandeli (€15) on Leros by Captain Yiannis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %mobile 6944819073; Mytries Pier; €2; h11am Tue & Thu; c).

Boat Services from Kalymnos

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Astypalea	Pothia	2hr 40min	12	2 weekly
Kos	Pothia	1hr 20min	6.50	3 daily
Kos*	Pothia	35min	16	1-2 daily
Leros	Myrties	35min	10-15	18 weekly
Leros	Pothia	1½hr	9	4 weekly
Leros*	Pothia	45min	20	1-2 daily
Lipsi	Myrties	1¼hr	9	3 weekly
Lipsi*	Pothia	1hr	20	1 daily
Patmos	Pothia	4hr	12	4 weekly
Patmos*	Pothia	1hr 40min	28	6 weekly
Piraeus	Pothia	11hr	52	3 weekly
Rhodes	Pothia	6hr	20.50	3 weekly
Rhodes*	Pothia	3hr	39	1-2 daily
Samos*	Pothia	3¾hr	39	5 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Boat

In summer, excursion boats run from Pothia to destinations including Kefalas Cave (€20), where an impressive 103m corridor is filled with stalactites and stalagmites; and the island of Pserimos, with its big, sandy beach and tavernas. Frequent water taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 31316, mobile 6947082912; one way €2; h8am-midnight) also connect Myrties with Telendos Islet year-round.

Bus

Buses from Pothia harbour serve Myrties, Masouri and Armeos (€1.50, seven daily), Emporio (€2, two daily) and Vathys (€2, three daily). Check timetables at www.kalymnos-isl.gr.

Car & Motorcycle

Vehicle-hire companies along the harbour in Pothia include the friendly, good-value Auto Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 24202, mobile 6927834628; www.kalymnoscars.gr; Harbour, Pothia), Rent-a-Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %mobile 6937980591; www.kalymnosrent.com; Harbour, Pothia) and Suzuki Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; %mobile 6937980591; Harbour, Pothia; scooter/car €8/20). Expect to pay €20 to €40 per day for a car, and €12 to €15 for a scooter.

Taxi

Shared taxis, based at Pothia’s taxi stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 50300; Plateia Kyprou), cost little more than buses. Private taxis cost around €10 to Myrties, €10 to the airport, €17 to Vathys and €30 to Emborios.

Pothia Πόθια

Pop 12,300

Kalymnos' capital, Pothia has a low-slung harbourfront of cream and white facades, and backs up the hill in a labyrinth of streets, beneath hulking mountains. If arriving by boat, this is most likely your first taste of the island. You may find some Kalymnians a little gruff, but don't be offended – these rugged islanders have been known throughout history for their toughness and terse manner. Pothia is not a resort, and makes no attempt to be one, though for the curious traveller there's an excellent museum and tourist office. Wander the quayside peppered with old mansions and sea-god statues, past nut-brown fishermen and ex-divers in kafeneia (coffee houses) and bars, nursing retsinas and ragged lungs.

1Sights & Activities

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 23113; €3; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, 8.30am-2.30pm Wed-Fri Sep-Jun)

Kalymnos’ modern Archaeological Museum is hard to find, hidden in the backstreets behind the right end of Pothia’s waterfront. It’s worth the effort to enjoy beautifully displayed ancient artefacts dating as far back as 5300 BC. There’s some remarkable glassware and gold jewellery, but the highlight is an exquisite, larger-than-life bronze statue of a woman from the 2nd century BC. Swathed in a chiton (tunic), she was discovered underwater off Kalymnos in 1994.

Nautical & Folklore MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 51361; €3; h9am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

The two parts of the Nautical and Folklore Museum, on the central waterfront, are not always open simultaneously. The folklore section holds costumes and furniture, while the nautical museum focuses on sponge fishing, displaying mighty stone weights used by ancient divers and haunting photos of their 20th-century counterparts wearing early-model diving suits. Many suffered terrible injuries before the bends (decompression sickness) was understood.

Kalymnos Scuba Diving ClubDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6974646413, 22430 47253; www.kalymnosdiving.com)

One-day dives (€50) to wrecks, underwater volcanoes, reefs and caves. Owner Dimitris also runs boat trips explaining the history of sponge diving and can demonstrate the ancient art of skandalopetra (stone and rope freediving). Three-day PADI open-water certification €350.

4Sleeping

oVilla MelinaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 22682; www.villa-melina.com; d/tr incl breakfast €65/70; aWs)

Set in a colourful walled garden, this rose-pink 1930s villa exudes old-world charm, its wood-panelled rooms featuring stucco ceilings, lilac walls, mahogany armoires and huge beds. Don’t expect luxury – it’s all slightly faded – but owner Antonios and his cats provide a homey welcome, the bathrooms are spotless, the chandeliered library extensive, and the sparkling swimming pool irresistible.

Archontiko HotelPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6942838524; www.apxontiko-hotel.com; s/d €35/50; aW)

Overlooking the harbour, five minutes’ walk from the ferry, this custard-coloured mansion is one of the most handsome in town. Under new management, its airy, white-walled rooms with balconies, have enjoyed a refurb. By night the place is decked in candles, the antique sepia photos of the Karafilis family (who originally lived here), magically animated. It's behind Magos Travel.

Hotel PanoramaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 23138; www.panorama-kalymnos.gr; Agios Nikolaos; s/d incl breakfast €35/50; aW)

Named in honour of the breathtaking rooftop views from its hilltop eyrie, this friendly, family-run hotel offers 13 rooms with private balconies, contemporary furniture and a communal sun terrace where the basic breakfast is served. It's a stiff climb from the ferry dock – ask for free pick-up.

5Eating

There are bags of eating options lining the quayside, from simple tavernas to upscale restaurants.

Stukas TavernaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6970802346; mains €6-12; hlunch & dinner; W)

Tiny Stukas has linen-topped tables and a wharfside terrace, serving hearty fare. Three-course set menus cost €9 for vegetarians and €10 for fish- or meat-eaters. Towards the far end of the harbour, heading away from the ferry dock.

Barba YiannisGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €8-12; h9am-midnight)

Smart, mercifully breezy and enjoying fine harbour views from its pretty decked terrace, Yiannis is a great spot to head for traditional Greek dishes such as stifadho (meat, game or seafood cooked with onions in a tomato purée) and souvlakia, and offers a daily two-course lunch for €8. There's also swordfish, shrimp saganaki (shrimp in fried cheese), calamari and lobster.

Pantelis RestaurantGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 51508; mains €7-14; hnoon-midnight; Wv)

Homey taverna, set slightly back off a corner of the harbour near the ferry dock, where island specialities include goat in red-wine sauce and homemade dolmadhes. Be sure to try the 'Ancient Greek' salad with apple and walnuts, and the fresh fish of the day. There’s a good wine selection, too.

8Information

Pothia’s ferry dock is at the southern, left-hand end of the port. The entire quay is commercialised, but the real centre of activity is around the Italian-era municipal buildings in the middle, 600m from the ferry dock. Several banks close to the waterfront hereabouts offer ATMs. Stay alert; traffic can be hectic on the narrow, footpath-less roads behind the waterfront, so be careful of speeding scooters.

Magos Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 28777; www.magostours.gr) The island’s main travel agency, near the ferry dock, sells ferry and catamaran tickets and has a 24-hour ticket machine outside. It also offers round-island bus tours, and boat excursions in summer.

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Venizelou) A 10-minute walk inland, northwest of the centre.

Municipal Tourist Information ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 29299; www.kalymnos-isl.gr; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) An excellent, well-organised source of info for buses and ferries, climbing and diving, festivals and general island practicalities. At the entrance to the ferry dock.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 29301; Venizelou)

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 24444; 25 Martiou)

Western Kalymnos

The former capital of Kalymnos, Horio, stands atop the brow of the low ridge behind Pothia, around 4km up from the sea. A steep, stony and unshaded old stairway that’s a little hard to find climbs up from its eastern edge to the pirate-proof village of Pera Kastro, which was inhabited until the 18th century. Beyond its forbidding walls and stern gateway, it now lies almost entirely in ruins and is overgrown with wildflowers, but amid the wreckage it’s well worth seeking out nine tiny 15th-century churches that still hold stunning frescoes.

A tree-lined road drops for 2km beyond Horio to reach the pretty village of Panormos. Two neighbouring beaches are within walking distance: Linaria and the more attractive cove of Kandouni, surrounded by mountains and holding a small sandy beach where cafes, bars and hotels overlook the water.

Directly facing Telendos Islet, across 800m of generally placid sea, Myrties and Masouri have attractive beaches, with the strand at Masouri being larger and sandier. Beyond the Telendos ferry quay in Myrties, the west-coast road is a one-way loop. To continue any further north, you have to double back and follow a largely empty stretch higher up the hillside. Only if you're heading south do you see the main commercial strip that connects the two resorts in a seamless row of restaurants, rental studios, bars, souvenir shops and minimarkets, one block up from sea level.

North of Masouri, the road becomes two-way once more and swiftly leads into Armeos, perched above the coast without a beach. Smarter and newer than its neighbours, it consists almost entirely of larger hotels and apartment complexes targeted at climbers.

North of Armeos, Kalymnos’ west-coast road leaves civilisation behind. Its final stretch, skirting the deep inlet that cradles tiny Arginonda, is utterly magnificent, cut into the flanks of mighty cliffs and bordered with flowering oleander. It comes to an end 20km from Pothia at sleepy little Emborios, where sugar-white houses cluster around a long, narrow pebble beach.

2Activities

Kalymnos Adventure CenterOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6984933327, 22480 48160; www.climbersnest.com; Masouri; h9am-noon & 4-8pm Mar-Nov)

This brilliant shop sells and rents climbing equipment, maps and guidebooks. Activities include: half-day beginners and leaders climbing courses (per person from €70), caving (€40), hiking (€20) and horse riding (€30), plus yoga on the centre's roof three times per week (€10) and massage (€65) for 50 minutes. Run by friendly Brigitte, it's efficient and full of information.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel PhiloxeniaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 59310; www.philoxenia-kalymnos.com; Armeos; s/d €40/50; aWs)

Somewhat isolated up the road from the main climbers' haven of Masouri, this spacious modern hotel, below some enticing crags at Armeos, makes an ideal base for climbers. Each of its plain tile-floored rooms has its own sea-view balcony and there's a decent pool with snack bar.

Myrties Boutique ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6986285888; www.myrtiesboutiqueapartments.gr; Myrties; €106)

Two delightful, dazzling rental studios, a couple of minutes' walk up from the beach, each with two rooms, sleeping up to five guests and equipped with kitchenette and broad sea-view patio. They're cleaned daily and linen includes robes and beach towels.

oFatolitis Snack BarCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 47615; Masouri; snacks €5; h9am-late; W)

A favourite with the apres-climbing gang, this lively roadside cafe has a vine-shaded terrace and cosy interior spattered with rock posters. The menu is carb-focused – think waffles, omelettes and toasties. Opposite Kalymnos Adventure Center, it’s also known as 'Climbers' Station'. Swap your stories over breakfast, lunch or an evening beer.

Smuggler's RestaurantTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 48508; Myrties; mains €9-12; h8am-late; aWv)

This lovely seafront taverna, close to the jetty at the south end of Myrties, is built to resemble an old fishing boat. The perfect spot, then, to enjoy fresh tuna steaks, mussels, lobster or shrimps in garlic and other deep-sea treasures, all at very reasonable prices. Look out for the sign of the Kraken outside.

CLIMBING, HIKING & DIVING IN PARADISE

Steep crags, stark cliffs and daredevil overhangs have turned Kalymnos into Greece’s premier destination for rock climbers. It now boasts more than 80 designated climbing sites, holding almost 3000 marked routes. Most are located above the island’s west-coast road, especially around and north of Armeos – white roadside markers identify the precise spots – though several of the finest ascend the flanks of Telendos Islet, just across the water.

Climbing season runs from March to mid-November, with the busiest period from mid-September until the end of October. An annual climbing festival takes place during the first 10 days of October.

The man largely responsible for the boom is Aris Theodoropolous, who along with Katie Rousseau writes the astonishingly detailed and comprehensive Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guidebook and maintains the useful www.climbkalymnos.com website, which includes a climbers’ forum. Head to Kalymnos Adventure Center for equipment and info.

Kalymnos is also increasingly popular with hikers. Established routes are detailed on the excellent 1:25,000 Kalymnos map published by Terrain Maps (www.terrainmaps.gr). Serious hikers may want to undertake all or part of the highly demanding, multi-day Kalymnos Trail, a 100km route that circles the island and also goes around Telendos for good measure. Carl Dawson published a useful guide to that and other island trails in 2015; see www.thekalymnostrail.co.uk.

Kalymnos is also becoming known as a diving island. For the beginner looking to qualify as a PADI open-water diver, as well as for the seasoned diver, there are plenty of hidden treasures in Poseidon's realm awaiting your inspection, including wreck dives, sea caves and diving with dolphins. There are four main outfits:

Kalymnos Diving ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6942062215; www.scubakalymnos.com; Agios Nikolaos; h8am-7pm)

Kalymnos Scuba Diving Club

Diver's Island ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 48287; www.diversisland-kalymnos.gr; Kalydna Hotel, Panormos; c)

Diver's Island Kalymnos Scuba Diving Club

Telendos Islet Νήσος Τέλενδος

The bewitching islet of Telendos looms from the Aegean just off the west coast of Kalymnos. Crowned by a mountainous ridge that soars 450m high, it’s thought to have been set adrift from the rest of Kalymnos by an earthquake in AD 554. It now makes a wonderful, vehicle-free destination for a day trip or longer stay.

Daily life on Telendos focuses on the short line of tavernas, cafes and whitewashed guesthouses that stretches along the pretty waterfront to either side of the jetty. Head right to reach the ruins of the early Christian basilica of Agios Vasilios and a footpath that climbs to the similarly dilapidated basilica of Palaiopanayia. Head left, on the other hand, and you can either cross a slender ridge, rich in colourful oleander, to access windswept, fine-pebbled Hohlakas Beach, or explore the islet’s low-lying southern promontory, which holds some tiny early-Christian tombs now inhabited by goats, and a gloriously tranquil little swimming cove.

The cliffs along the northern flanks of Telendos hold several hugely popular rock-climbing routes, which can be accessed by walking for an hour or so along a rough, exposed footpath.

4Sleeping & Eating

oOn The RocksPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6932978142, 22430 48260; www.otr.telendos.com; r incl breakfast €60; aiW)

Behind its seafront garden restaurant, open bar and terrace strung with nautical knick-knacks, 200m right from the jetty, this welcoming complex is a haven for active climbers and indolent beach bunnies alike. The spacious studios have kitchenettes, private balconies, foot massage and washing machines. Airport transfers available.

Hotel Porto PothaHOTEL€

(%6949028564, 22430 47321; portopotha@klm.forthnet.gr; d incl breakfast €52; aWs)

Telendos' only hotel is located a five-minute walk out of the village heading north – look out for the smart sugar-cube complex up on the hill. Rooms are airy and bright, and there's a large lobby where guests come to relax and watch TV over a drink. There are additonal separate apartments.

Zorba’sTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 48660; www.telendos.net; mains €8-12; aW)

Traditional cafe, a short walk from the jetty, with great sea views. The owner fishes for the seafood himself – guests can go with him – bringing up squid, octopus, tuna and swordfish. It also has three small but pleasant pink-walled en-suite rooms (€30). Arguably the best food on the island.

Emborios Εμπορειός

In sleepy little Emborios, sugar-white houses cluster around a long, narrow pebble beach.This is the best place to swim on the island, with its crystal-clear waters sheltered by the tiny island of Kalavros just offshore, and the mountains on Telendos and above Armeos dominating the horizon. Daily buses connect Emborios with Pothia, and in summer excursion boats come here for the day from Myrties – they have no fixed schedule.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHarry’s ParadiseAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 40062; www.harrys-paradise.gr; Emborios; d/q €50/90; aW)S

A true island favourite, set in its own garden of Eden, bursting with jasmine, roses, hibiscus and aromatic herbs. Fantastic-value accommodation incorporates charming shabby-chic elements, rocking chairs, kitchenettes and large balconies – if possible, opt for the garden-facing studios rather than the separate sea-view block – while the divine home-cooking gives locally sourced, quintessentially Kalymnian ingredients a modern twist.

oTo KymaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22430 40012; www.tokyma-kalymnos.gr; Emborios; mains €8; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Despite its humdrum laminated menu board, this extremely friendly beach taverna serves truly exceptional food, including a delicious barley-bread salad, red mullet, salted mackerel and swordfish souvlakia. Its name, 'The Wave', refers to the swell whipped up by late summer’s meltemi dry northerly wind.

WORTH A TRIP

VATHYS & RINA ΒΑΘΎΣ & ΡΊΝΑ

Follow the barren coast road northeast from Pothia, instead of heading straight over to the west coast, and, after winding for 13km along the cliffs, it enters a long, lush, east-facing valley that was historically the agricultural heartland of Kalymnos. Narrow roads here thread between citrus orchards, bordered by high stone walls known as koumoula.

The valley takes its name from the inland settlement of Vathys, but the attraction for visitors is the little harbour of Rina. From the sea, it's accessed by a slender twisting inlet that’s more like a fjord than anything you’d expect to find on a Greek island. In summer, large excursion boats bring troupes of day trippers here from Kos for lunch, keeping a clutch of competitive quayside tavernas busy, but it’s a lovely spot at quieter times. Easy walks lead to 1500-year-old chapels on the hillside to either side of the bay.

Inland, beyond Vathys, a windswept road switchbacks up and over the mountains to reach the island’s northwest coast, providing a speedier way to reach Emborios from Pothia than the built-up route through Myrties and Masouri.

Leros ΛΕΡΟΣ

Pop 8210

Leros is said to have been the original home of Artemis the Huntress. There’s certainly something alluringly untamed and beautiful about the island, which is scattered with stunning Orthodox churches, dazzling blue coves and whitewashed villages. The capital, Platanos, with its stark windmills and ancient fortress towering above, makes a striking centrepiece, while down below, the busy little harbour of Agia Marina pulses with enterprise. Leros is less about chasing activities and more about worshipping Helios, seeking out your favourite beach and allowing the magic of the place to slowly unfold.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Leros airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 22777) is at the northern end of the island about 6km from Agia Marina. It's serviced by Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com), which offers daily flights to Athens (€80, one hour) and thrice-weekly flights to Rhodes (€74, 1¾ hours), Kalymnos (€55, 15 minutes), Kos (€62, 55 minutes) and Astypalea (€63, 25 minutes).

Boat

High-speed catamarans operated by Dodekanisos Seaways call in at Leros between two and four times daily as they ply their way to and from Kos, Kalymnos, Patmos, Samos, Rhodes and other nearby islands. Generally they stop at Agia Marina on the island’s east coast, but when there's bad weather they may stop at Lakki on the west coast, so always check the relevant port when you buy tickets, and double-check on the day you’re due to depart and be prepared for a last-minute taxi dash across the island.

Blue Star Ferries makes late-night stops at Lakki twice weekly, heading once towards Rhodes via Kos and Kalymnos, and once towards Piraeus via Patmos and Lipsi.

Patmos Star (%22470 32500; www.patmos-star.com) sails between Agia Marina and the islands of Lipsi and Patmos with varying frequency, increasing to daily in peak season.

ANisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) connects Lakki with Kalymnos to the south, and Lipsi, Patmos and assorted islets to the north, three to four times weekly.

AAnna Express (www.annaexpress.eu) connects Agia Marina three times weekly with Lipsi and with Myrties on the west coast of Kalymnos.

Boat Services from Leros

Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans may dock at either Agia Marina or Lakki.

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Agathonisi*	Agia Marina/Lakki	1hr 50min	18	1 weekly
Kalymnos	Lakki	2hr	9.50	4-5 weekly
Kalymnos*	Agia Marina/Lakki	50min	20	1-2 daily
Kos	Lakki	3¼hr	9.50	1 weekly
Kos*	Agia Marina/Lakki	1hr	23	1 weekly
Lipsi	Lakki	1hr	9	3-4 weekly
Lipsi*	Agia Marina/Lakki	20min	13	1 daily
Patmos	Lakki	2hr	10	3-4 weekly
Patmos*	Agia Marina/Lakki	45min	20	1 daily
Piraeus	Lakki	10hr	42	4 weekly
Rhodes	Lakki	8hr	32.50	1 weekly
Rhodes*	Agia Marina/Lakki	3½hr	41	3 weekly
Samos*	Agia Marina/Lakki	2hr 50min	30.50	5 weekly

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

A taxi (%mobile 6974316421, mobile 6972014531) to Agia Marina from the airport will cost around €20.

Green-and-beige-striped buses travel the full length of Leros between three and six times daily (€4 flat fare), including calling at the airport. They’ll usually stop anywhere if you flag them down.

Outlets in all resort areas rent cars, scooters and bikes; Motoland ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24584, 22470 24103; www.motoland.gr; at Panteli Beach Hotel; h9am-7pm) in Alinda and Pandeli is recommended.

The Agios Georgios and Barbarosa excursion boats make assorted day trips in summer, around the island and north to islets such as Arki and Marathi, typically costing €25.

Platanos & Agia Marina Πλάτανος & Αγια Μαρίνα

Pop 3000

Arriving at the bijou port of Agia Marina, with its yawning cats, mounds of yellow fishing nets and cluster of taverna is a delight, the biscuit- and wine-coloured Italianate buildings are as if drawn from an artist's palette. And rising behind them are the white sugar-cube houses of Platanos. Stately mansions still pepper the slopes of Platanos (a 10-minute uphill walk) and the row of renovated windmills that marches up towards its imposing cliff-top castle makes a magnificent spectacle.

Heading right from the ferry quay, following the shoreline, will take you to Krithoni and Alinda.

1Sights & Activities

Pandeli CastleCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 23211; €1; h8.30am-12.30pm & 4-8pm; c)

A steep, stony stepped path zigzags up from Platanos to reach the hilltop ruins of Pandeli Castle. The castle's oldest, innermost sections date back 1000 years, but the outer ramparts were added by the Knights of St John during the 14th and 15th centuries. Few structures now survive, but the 360-degree views from the walls are breathtaking. You can also drive here, along an exposed road that winds up from Pandeli past the windmills where you'll find a cafe in summertime.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24775; Agia Marina; €3; h9am-2.30pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep; c)

A 19th-century building on the edge of Agia Marina, at the start of the climb up to Platanos, holds Leros’ small Archaeological Museum. Well-chosen artefacts collected on and around the island trace its varied history and include ancient masks and Byzantine mosaics.

Agios GeorgiosBOATING

(%6945551731, 22470 23060; agiosgeorgiosnl54@gmail.com; cruise incl food & drink €20; hdeparts 11am)

Captain Manolis and his boat leave from Agia Marina harbour, taking in the islands of Arki, Marathi, Arhangelos, Tiganakia, Lipsi and Aspronisia, allowing you to stop and swim in the best spots. Returns at 7pm.

BarbarosaBOATING

(%6978048715; www.leros.org/lerostouristhttp/barbarosa-leros; incl food & drink €25; hdeparts 11am; c)

Barabarosa is a traditional caïque that motors out from Agia Marina harbour to the islands of Arki, Marathi, Arhangelos, Tiganakia, Lipsi and Aspronisia on day trips, allowing you to stop and swim in the best spots. Returns at 7pm.

4Sleeping

There's no accommodation in Agia Marina, and very little in Platanos. The closest alternative options are in Pandeli to the south, and Krithoni and Alinda to the north.

Maison des CouleursBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 23341; www.maisondescouleurs.com; Platanos; r incl breakfast €100-150; W)

Delightfully peaceful little hotel set in a nostalgic wine-coloured villa that holds five spacious, high-ceilinged, antique-furnished rooms. Breakfast – and dinner, on request – is served on an idyllic flower-filled terrace. Look for a steep flight of yellow steps just west of the bus stop and taxi rank in Platanos.

5Eating & Drinking

Smoked mackerel and thyme honey are specialities of Leros.

oTo ParadosiakonBAKERY€

(Agia Marina; snacks €2-5; h7am-11.30pm; aW)S

This Italianate patisserie and ice-cream bar provides a sweet-toothed experience like no other. Owner Harris is an alchemist confectioner using his grandmother's old recipes to create cheese cake, chocolate gateau, baklava, strawberry tart, cookies, spinach pie and homemade made ice cream. Try the yoghurt cake with ice cream and mastiha (liqueur made from the resin of mastic trees).

oTaverna MylosSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24894; www.mylosexperience.gr; Agia Marina; mains €12-18; h1pm-late; aWvc)S

Lapped by turquoise waves, beside an old windmill at the far end of the pebbled beach that curves north from the ferry dock, Mylos infuses classic recipes with a modern twist. Go for the octopus carpaccio, the peppery basil squid, or the fabulous mixed-seafood spaghetti. The waterfront terrace is perfect for romantic sunset dinners.

Faros BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Agia Marina; h7pm-late; W)

Tumbledown haunt, partly hollowed into a cave beneath the lighthouse at the promontory beyond the ferry dock. With wall-mounted accordions and dim-lit ambience, it's great fun. Come evening, you can sit by the open windows and watch quicksilver fish swimming in the aquamarine water. Live music and DJs at weekends.

8Information

For information on local history and facilities, visit www.leros.org.uk or www.lerosisland.com.

Kastis Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 22140) Useful agency, facing the quay in Agia Marina, which sells ferry tickets and organises boat trips to nearby beaches and islets.

Leros Active ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24590; www.lerosactive.com; Agia Marina) Agency and tour operator specialising in alternative tourism. It arranges activities including diving and hiking, as well as tours of wartime sites, and can provide information on accommodation.

Police (%22470 22221) In Agia Marina.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ) Right of the quay in Agia Marina.

Pandeli Παντελή

The village of Pandeli, arrayed around a crescent bay 800m south of Platanos, is as peaceful as it is pretty. Overlooked by a clutch of hilltop windmills, its white houses tumble down the valley towards the sand-and-shingle beach and bobbing fishing boats in the harbour. There are some great tavernas by the water, too.

4Sleeping & Eating

Studios HappinessAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 23498; www.studios-happiness-leros.com; Pandeli; d/studio/apt €45/55/70; aW)

Very friendly family-run place, perched in colourful gardens beside the road down into Pandeli, 50m up from the beach. Its vibrant white-and-blue studios have kitchenettes, twin beds and private balconies with great sea views. The rooms vary in size and are spotless throughout.

Panteli Beach HotelAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 26400; www.panteli-beach.gr; Pandeli; studio/apt €90/120; aW)

Pretty, very comfortable complex, arrayed around an open courtyard right in front of the beach. All 14 studios have fresh white walls, safety deposit boxes, nice duvets and sparkling kitchenettes, and the attached Sorokos beach bar offers all-day sun loungers. There's also a playground for kids, and lastly, the owner rents scooters and quads.

El GrecoSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 25066; www.elgrecoleros.gr; Pandeli; mains €8-12; hlunch & dinner; aW)

Offering tables right on the beach or on a thatch-roofed terrace, this stylish taverna prepares up-to-the-minute versions of traditional seafood cuisine. Be sure to sample the king crab croquettes and the lip-smacking salted mackerel served on buttered toast.

ApostolisGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 25200, 6972821770; mains €8-12; h9am-late; aW)

This narrow restaurant has a cosy interior of turquoise tables to match the same colour of the waves lapping at the pebbled beach a few metres away. Eat outside on the terrace. Choose from spinach pie, calamari, mussels, octopus and a good selection of cheeses.

Vromolithos Βρωμόλιθος

Accessible only by walking or driving over the headland immediately south of Pandeli – there’s no coastal footpath – Vromolithos consists of a long, narrow beach caressed by waters of a perfect shade of Aegean blue, scattered with turquoise. Forget the ugly village, this is all about the water.

5Eating & Drinking

oDimitris O KaraflasGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 25626; Marcopoulo St, Vromolithos; mains €15; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-late; aW)

The sign says 'O Karaflas', but everyone knows this hilltop eyrie (enjoying one of the best views in the Dodecanese) as 'Bald Dimitri's', after its owner. Bouzouki music washes over the terrace, where diners feast on an array of sea-urchin spaghetti, hearty island sausages, octopus carpaccio, steamed mussels, pork with green apples and plums, and substantial helpings of calamari.

oCafe Del MarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24766; Vromolithos; h9am-late; W)

This super-friendly hillside lounge bar just above the north end of the beach has paradisiacal sea views, chilled pine-shaded patios, white sofas and deckchairs, plus cool tunes and DJs spinning the decks by night. Call in any time for coffee and juice, sandwiches, salads and pasta dishes, and don’t miss a sunset mojito.

Lakki Λακκί

Between 1912 and 1948, when the west-coast port of Lakki was a significant Italian naval base, the town was transformed beyond recognition by the construction of grandiose administrative and military buildings. The prevalent architectural style, now classified as streamline moderne, started out resembling art deco and ended up distinctly more fascist. Lakki these days is ghostly quiet. Larger ferries and some catamarans dock at its jetty, a long walk from the centre of town, but there’s no reason to linger.

1Sights

War MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 22109; Merikia; €3; h9.30am-1.30pm)

Who remembers now that a major WWII battle was fought on this remote little island? After British troops forced the Italians to surrender in September 1943, a massive German air onslaught recaptured the island in the Battle of Leros. A network of tunnels dug by the Italians beneath the woods west of Lakki now serves as a museum, housing countless relics of the conflict. There's an explanatory video.

5Eating

PetrinoGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Lakki; mains €10; h7am-11pm; aW)S

Hands down the most succulent meat on the island is to be found at smart Petrino. Aside from delicious steaks there's octopus salad, stewed rabbit, and beef in lemon sauce. OK, so Lakki itself might be a little dull, but there's nothing ordinary about this place.

Xirokambos Ξηρόκαμπος

At the southern end of Leros, Xirokambos Bay holds a pebble-and-sand beach with some good spots for snorkelling. As well as a few village houses, it’s home to a good beach taverna and is served by small excursion boats from Kalymnos. Up the hill, 1km inland towards Lakki, a signposted path climbs to the ruined Paleokastro fortress, which offers tremendous views.

4Sleeping & Eating

Camping LerosCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6944238490, 22470 23372; www.campingleros.com; Xirokambos; campsites adult/tent €8/4; hJun-Sep)

Set 500m up from the beach, and 3km south of Lakki, the island’s campground stands in a 400-year-old olive grove and holds a welcoming cafe that puts on evening barbecues. There are plenty of pitches shaded by said olive trees. It’s also a centre for scuba diving, and owner Leferis offer introductory dives, day dives (€60) and CMAS-certified week-long open-water courses (€500).

To AloniTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 26048; Xirokambos; mains €9-15; hlunch & dinner; paWc)

You can't miss this prominent taverna literally so close to the sea it adds a little salt seasoning to your octopus croquettes, shrimp saganaki (shrimp in fried cheese), swordfish, lobster, or liver in wine sauce; with tables al fresco and within its pleasant interior. Great desserts, too, if you have room.

Krithoni & Alinda Κριθώνι & Αλιντα

Pop 750

Starting just beyond the first headland north of Agia Marina, the twin resorts of Krithoni and Alinda sit next to each other on Alinda Bay, running parallel to the beach and bordered by kafeneia and restaurants. Leros’ longest beach is at Alinda – although narrow, it’s shaded and sandy with clean, shallow water. Set just back from the sea, a poignant war cemetery holds British casualties from the 1943 Battle of Leros.

For the best sun-worshipping in these parts, continue through Krithoni and Alinda to Dio Liskaria Beach (a few minutes’ scooter ride). Bookended by rocks and with its own taverna, it’s lapped by aquamarine waves.

1Sights

Historic & Folklore MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24775; Alinda; €3; h9am-1pm & 6-8pm Tue-Sun; c)

Housed in an incongruous castellated villa on the seafront, this museum covers several aspects of local history. The upstairs rooms are given over largely to weapons, helmets and photos relating to WWII, while downstairs you’ll find displays of traditional costumes and an emotive gallery devoted to artworks created by political prisoners incarcerated on the island during the colonels’ dictatorship of the 1960s and 1970s.

4Sleeping

oTo Archontiko AngelouHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6944908182, 22470 22749; www.hotel-angelou-leros.com; Alinda; r incl breakfast from €95; paW)S

Spilling with oleander and jacaranda, this incurably romantic, 19th-century rose-coloured villa, five minutes' walk from the beach, is like stepping into a vintage Italian film. Think wood floors, Viennese frescoes, antique beds and old-world-style rooms. Breakfast on the sun-dappled terrace is divine: a mouthwatering array of homemade bread, jams and marmalades. One of the finest hotels in the Dodecanese.

To Archontiko Angelou is Leros' first dairy-free vegan hotel.

Nefeli HotelAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 24611; www.nefelihotels.com; Krithonia; studio/apt incl breakfast from €90/110; paW)

Run by friendly Eva, Nefeli has beautiful sugar-white apartments with vividly coloured lavender and pink trim. These are beautifully finished spaces with stone floors, gleaming kitchens, moulded-stone couches and swallow-you-up beds. All have private balconies and there's a tempting cafe in the herb-fragrant courtyard. It's 10 minutes' walk beyond the northern edge of Agia Marina.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Nemesis CafeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 22070; Krithoni; h10am-late; W)

There's piping jazz and happy vibes at this well-stocked waterfront bar with a nautical theme. Perfect spot for a sundowner.

Northern Leros

The north of Leros is dotted with small fishing communities, beehives and rugged terrain. Just west of the airport, the Temple of Artemis (dedicated to the island’s ancient patroness) dates from the 4th century BC, but has yet to be excavated.

East of here, Blefoutis Beach is a narrow stretch of sand and pebble on a pretty enclosed bay.

Patmos ΠΑΤΜΟΣ

Pop 3040

Patmos is known as the 'Holy Island' or, less appealingly, 'the island of the Apocalypse' after St John the Divine who, exiled some 2000 years ago, envisioned the end of the world in a cave and recorded this in the disturbing Book of Revelation: 'And I stood upon the sand of the sea, and saw a beast rise up out of the sea, having seven heads and 10 horns...'

In the Greek myths Patmos was referred to as 'Latmos', a sunken mountain which Artemis and Poseidon persuaded Zeus to resurface. You'll be glad they did, for this hourglass-shaped island has no sizeable towns, just the picturesque harbour community of Skala, and labyrinthine village of hillside Hora. Patmos still abounds in barely disturbed bays lined with sand and pebble beaches, lulled by limpid waters and overlooked by pine- and heather-coated hillsides. They say the island's strange energy either embraces or repels you; what will it do for you?

History

St John the Divine was banished to Patmos by the pagan Roman Emperor Domitian in AD 95. Living as a hermit in a cave above what’s now Skala, St John heard the voice of God issuing from a cleft in the rock and transcribed his terrifying visions as the Book of Revelation. Around 1000 years later, in 1088, the Byzantine Emperor Alexis I Komninos gave the Blessed Christodoulos permission to erect a monastery in John’s memory. Pirate raids necessitated powerful fortifications, so the monastery took the form of a mighty hilltop castle. In the centuries that followed, Patmos became a semi-autonomous monastic state and achieved such wealth and influence that it was able to resist Turkish oppression.

8Getting There & Away

All Patmos ferries dock in Skala. Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans connect Patmos with Lipsi, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, Rhodes and other islands to the south, and also with Arki, Agathonisi, Ikaria, Fourni and Samos to the north.

Blue Star Ferries calls in twice each week, once heading south through the Dodecanese chain towards Rhodes, and once towards Piraeus.

The Nisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) connects Patmos with Kalymnos, Lipsi and Leros to the south, and the islets to the north, three to four times weekly.

The Patmos Star sails between Patmos and Lipsi and Leros, daily in peak season and less frequently otherwise.

Boat Services from Patmos (Skala)

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Agathonisi*	Skala	55min	16	1 weekly
Kalymnos	Skala	4hr	12.50	4 weekly
Kalymnos*	Skala	1hr 40min	30	6 daily
Kos*	Skala	3hr	31	1-2 daily
Leros	Skala	2hr	10	4-5 weekly
Leros*	Skala	40min	17	1-2 daily
Lipsi	Skala	50min	8	4 weekly
Lipsi*	Skala	25min	12	4 weekly
Piraeus	Skala	7hr	36	1 weekly
Rhodes	Skala	10hr	37.50	3 weekly
Rhodes*	Skala	5hr	49	5 weekly
Samos*	Skala	1hr	30	6 weekly
Symi*	Skala	4¼hr	46	1 daily

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Boat

Patmos Daily Cruises offers summer boat excursions to beaches around the island, including Psili Ammos, and also to nearby islets.

Bus

Buses (flat fare €2) connect Skala with Hora seven times daily, and with Grikos and Kambos four times daily, and more frequently in July and August.

Car & Motorcycle

The main seafront street in Skala holds several car- and motorcycle-hire outlets, including T & G Automoto ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33066; Skala) and Avis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31900, 22470 33025; Skala; h9am-9pm). Demand often exceeds supply in high season, so book ahead if possible. The best scooter shop, Moto Rent Faros ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 34400; www.patmos-motorentfaros.com; h8am-8.30pm), is behind the harbour on the road to Hora, and has quick, regularly serviced bikes.

Taxi

You can catch a taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31225) from Skala’s taxi rank, opposite the police station.

Skala Σκάλα

Pop 3000

Skala, Patmos’ photogenic ferry port, is set on a huge bay on the eastern shore of the island. Apart from those moments when mighty cruise ships suddenly obliterate the entire harbour like a giant Monty Python foot, it’s a laid-back little place. There’s even a tiny patch of sandy beach – albeit covered with restaurant tables – a few hundred metres from the dock.

Skala’s waterfront is an unbroken string of tavernas, cafes and fading Italian buildings from the 1930s, while whitewashed houses, stylish clothing and jewellery boutiques, geletaria, and cafes fill the maze of backstreets stretching inland. The island is barely 700m wide at this point, so a 10-minute walk will take you all the way to stony, windswept Hohlakas Beach on its western side.

1Sights & Activities

Skala has a couple of religious sites, including the place where St John first baptised the locals in AD 96, just north of the beach. To find out more and to see religious objects from across the island, visit the Orthodox Culture & Information Centre in the harbourside church.

If you feel like a workout, climb to the remains of an ancient acropolis on the hillside to the west of town. The route is not well signposted – head for the prominent chapel then follow the dirt trail across the fields full of wildflowers and lizards. The views from the top are stunning.

4Sleeping

Hotel and studio owners often meet boats at the port, but it’s best to call ahead and arrange a pick-up to avoid the scrum. Outside of high season (August) expect dramatically reduced rates.

Kalderimi ApartmentsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33008, 6972008757; www.kalderimi.com; apt incl breakfast €120; hlate May–early Oct; aW)

This inland whitewashed place at the start of the footpath up to Hora is pure tranquillity, with a shaded courtyard overflowing with palms, bougainvillea and Moorish lanterns. The five spacious apartments have a traditional feel, featuring wooden beams and stone walls, plus sparkling kitchens.

Captain’s HouseHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31793; www.captains-house.gr; d/apt incl breakfast €70/80; aWs)

Delightful wharfside digs, 100m walk left from the quay, holding high-spec rooms and apartments with en-suite bathrooms and crisp white lines. Five have their own sea-facing balconies. There’s also a lovely swimming pool out back with sun loungers, along with a great breakfast terrace. Perfect family option.

Blue Bay HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31165; www.bluebaypatmos.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €70/90/120; aiW)

Small hotel perched above the road immediately south of Skala, 250m walk from the harbour beyond the first headland. Basic air-con rooms are redeemed by having great sea-view balconies; it’s an unbeatable spot to enjoy the breakfast buffet.

5Eating

TzivaeriSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31170; mains €10; h5pm-late)

Skala’s best option for a romantic feast spreads over a balcony terrace at the north end of the harbour. With its walls covered in shells, sponges and black-and-white photos, and the air thick with bouzouki music, it makes a memorable stop for Cretan-style sardines, shrimp or octopus, though you can also get a burger or kebab. Live music on Fridays.

PantelisTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31230; mains €10; hlunch & dinner)

Long-standing taverna, with locals and visitors alike packed onto tables on the narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to the port. If you’re not feeling adventurous enough to try the smoky sea-urchin salad or the fouskes (sea figs – definitely an acquired taste), you can always get staples such as meatballs, moussaka (baked layers of eggplant or zucchini, minced meat and potatoes topped with cheese sauce), grilled lamb chops and calamari.

ChiliomodiTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 34080; Skala; mains €12; hlunch & dinner)

Hidden in a back alley not far from the waterfront, Chiliomodi has been keeping travellers happy for over two decades with mouthwatering sea bream, salted cod, succulent sausages and various mezedhes to name a few. The restaurant has its own fishing boat so the seafood couldn't be fresher.

AigaionEsti AigaionEstiGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6942813044; mains €15; h11am-12pm; aW)

Skala's newest restaurant has wide-screen sea views, a smart interior of exposed stone and white walls, plus a menu featuring baby goat stew, wild boar, and squid with chilli and coriander. There's a wood-fired oven for pizzas and you can also eat al fresco beside the water. To reach it, walk through the glass gauntlet of giant lobsters skulking in tanks.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oKoukoumavla BarCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31321; h10am-late Tue-Sun; W)S

Imagine the love child of Tim Burton and Frida Kahlo opening a coffee house and you're getting close – interesting art spattered across green and orange walls, cool tunes, cocktails and excellent coffee. The 'owl' also sells crafts, books and toys and has a little garden terrace as well as tables on the alleyway, just back from the sea.

oArt CaféBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33092; h7pm-late; W)

Escape the harbour hubbub by climbing to a fabulous panoramic roof terrace then blissing out over sunset cocktails (€7 to €9) amid plump pillows and white-cushioned benches. The friendly German owner also serves great homemade hummus and there’s often live music in the indoor lounge below.

ArionBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31595; h9am-late; W)

Over 100 years old, this venerable, high-raftered, wood-panelled bar, at the heart of the waterfront, is a major local landmark and rendezvous point for locals. Travellers generally prefer to sit outside, watching the world and the waves go by as they hook up to the wi-fi. Snacks include toasties and crêpes.

MeltemiCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31839; h9am-late; W)

Irresistible beach bar at the far end of the harbour that curves 500m north from the ferry dock. Sit on the sand savouring a cocktail as the sun sinks into the sea, or come earlier for breakfast, a midday sandwich, fruit salad or milkshake under the shade of a tamarisk tree.

8Information

All Patmos ferries dock in the heart of Skala. Taxis wait at the quay, and the bus terminal is close by, as are three ATM-equipped banks. From the roundabout straight ahead, a road climbs inland towards Hora. Skala itself stretches away to the right, with the road skirting first a narrow beach and then the yacht port as it heads north. There’s another little sandy beach to the left as the coast road sets off south.

Both www.patmos-island.com and www.patmosweb.gr provide copious information. You can also pick up a free copy of the pocket-sized Patmos Guide in shops and hotels.

The Municipal Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31666; hMon 9am-5pm, Tue-Sun 9am-9-pm Jun-Sep) Has useful tips on things to see and do on the island.

Orthodox Culture & Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33316; h9am-1pm & 6-9pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) This quayside office provides details on the island's religious sites, including current opening hours.

Apollon Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31324; apollontravel@stratas.gr; h9.30am-2pm & 6.30-9pm) and Astoria Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31205; www.astoriatravel.com) are the best outlet for ferry tickets, along with all practical aspects of visiting Patmos, including accommodation.

Health Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22473 60000; h8am-2pm) Located 2km along the road to Hora; you'll find it next to the Monastery of the Apocalypse.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31303) On the main waterfront.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31231) Behind the quay’s passenger-transit building.

Hora Χώρα

Pop 800

With gorgeous views of the island from its hilltop eyrie, enchanting Hora is more than just a whitewashed mountain settlement. As you wander its incense-scented warren of 17th-century houses, wind gusting through the alleys, the Boschian forms of St John's demons scuttling behind in your imagination, it's easy to see why Hora draws people back again and again. Allegedly there are more monasteries per square metre here in Hora than anywhere else in the world. Aside from the sanctity of the place there are some lovely boutiques selling fine clothes and jewellery, and a couple of interesting galleries and upscale bars.

1Sights

oMonastery of the ApocalypseMONASTERY

(Cave of the Apocalypse; GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31398; €2; h8am-1.30pm, also & 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sat)

Nestled amid the pines halfway to Hora, the Monastery of the Apocalypse focuses on the cave where St John lived as a hermit and received his revelation. Pilgrims and less-than-devout cruise passengers alike stream into the chapel built over the recess, to see the rocky pillow where the saint rested his head, the handhold with which he’d haul himself up from his prayers and the stone slab that served as his writing desk.

oMonastery of St John the TheologianMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31223; €4; h8am-1.30pm daily, also 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sat)

As this immense 11th-century monastery-cum-fortress remains active, only a small portion is open to visitors. The entrance courtyard leads to a sumptuously frescoed chapel, fronted by marble columns taken from an ancient temple. Don’t expect to attend a service; daily worship is at 3am! The museum of church treasures upstairs displays the original edict establishing the monastery, signed by the Byzantine emperor in 1088.

Holy Monastery of Zoödohos PigiCONVENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31991; h9am-1pm daily & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)F

The Orthodox convent known as the Holy Monastery of Zoödohos Pigi is tucked away in the back alleys of Hora. You can’t go beyond its pretty little courtyard, where a small church holds remarkable 17th-century frescoes. One of the 40 resident nuns will cheerfully point out Jesus on Judgement Day dispatching assorted bishops and clerics down a river of fire that flows into the maw of the beast.

4Sleeping & Eating

oArchontarikiB&B€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29368; www.archontariki-patmos.gr; ste €200; hEaster–Oct; aW)

Hidden in a little alley near the Zoodohos Pigi monastery, these heavenly suites in a 400-year-old home are equipped with every convenience, traditional furnishings and plenty of plush touches. Relaxing under the fruit trees in the cool, quiet garden courtyard, you’ll never want to leave. Suites ‘Wisdom’ and ‘Joy’ are capacious, while ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’ are smaller, traditional split-level affairs.

oPantheonGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31226; mains €7-12; h5pm-midnight; av)

Look for the octopus drying outside – hence its local moniker 'the octopus place' – this whitewashed belle with Aegean-blue chairs and soaring village views is pure Greek fare at its best. Seafood and meatballs, homemade sweets and warm crinkly smiles from its gentle owners. Located at the start of the approach to the Monastery of St John the Theologian.

Jimmy's BalconyGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 32115; mains €7-12; h10am-11pm; Wv)

Perched above the road, on the principal lane through the village to the monastery, the shaded terrace of this welcoming all-day cafe-restaurant commands regal views across Skala to the islands to the north. Drop in for a cooling drink, or to enjoy its delicious salads, breakfast, mousakas (baked layers of eggplant or zucchini, minced meat and potatoes topped with cheese sauce) and veggie dishes.

VaggelisTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31967; Pl Agias Lesvias; mains €10-15; hlunch & dinner; aW)

With chi-chi grey chairs and tables, Vaggelis sits in one of the most intimate squares in the world. Foamy cream octopus, seafood mousakas and impeccably prepared traditional dishes such as baked Patmos goat are a few of the delights on offer in this contemporary restaurant. Sit in the square, or for jaw-dropping views, under the carob tree in the garden out back.

7Shopping

Andreas Kalatzis GalleryART

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6988024890; h8am-3pm & 8pm-late)

Byzantine icon artist and Che Guevara lookalike, Andreas Kalatzis lives and works in a 1740s traditional home just east of the St John monastery. There's a beguiling mix of abstract oils, sculpture and quirky photography on show in his gallery.

ST JOHN THE DIVINE & THE APOCALYPSE

A great deal of confusion and uncertainty surrounds the Book of Revelation. But don’t worry, it’s not the end of the world. Well, maybe some of it is – the bits about the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, the Battle of Armageddon and the final defeat of Satan, say – but biblical scholars broadly agree that Revelation should in fact be read as a denunciation of the era in which its author lived.

St John experienced his Revelation on Patmos at the end of the 1st century AD, making it too late for him to have been either John the Evangelist, the author of the Gospel according to St John, or John the Apostle, or John the Baptist. Instead he was simply a wandering Jewish/Christian prophet of whom very little is known, though he has acquired the titles of John the Divine, John the Revelator, John the Theologian and, most simply of all, John of Patmos. His actual Revelation took the form of a letter to seven Christian churches in Asia Minor, condemning the Roman subjugation under which they then suffered and predicting an imminent apocalypse in which the Roman Empire would be swept away.

North of Skala

The most popular and readily accessible beach in northern Patmos is wide, sandy Kambos Beach, which lies 5km northeast of Skala, just downhill from the village of Kambos. Crowded with local families in summer, it’s a perfect spot for kids, with safe swimming and plenty of water-based activities.

Remoter and, with luck, quieter beaches can be reached by driving a little further. Fork inland (left) immediately after Kambos Beach and you’ll soon find yourself winding down green slopes to Lambi Beach, an impressive expanse of multicoloured pebbles on the north shore. Stick to the coast road east of Kambos Beach, on the other hand, to reach Vagia Beach, a sheltered little cove that offers good snorkelling in the island's coldest though highest-visibility water, and beyond it the pebbled, tamarisk-shaded and stunningly turquoise-laced Livadi Geranou Beach, where a tiny whitewashed chapel beckons from the islet just offshore.

2Activities

oPatmos Daily CruisesBOAT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31425, 6977035231; www.patmosdailycruises.com; Skala; incl wine, water & watermelon €23; hdeparts 10.15am)

Daily excursions to islands Makronisi, Aspronisa, Marathi and Arki. You can also charter the company's three boats. Moored opposite Apollon Travel.

Kambos Beach WatersportsWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6972123541; www.patmoswatersports.com; Kambos Beach; c)

This outfit can take you wakeboarding and waterskiing, set loose you on a pedalo or, for the less athletically inclined, simply rent you a sun lounger and leave you in peace. There are also kayaks available.

4Sleeping & Eating

Stefanos CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31821, 6945067206; www.facebook.com/pg/Stefanos-Camping-Patmos; campsites per person/tent €7/2; hMay-Sep; W)

Clean and very friendly with bamboo-shaded pitches and a stunning view of the beach metres away. There are bikes for rent, a minimarket, and an excellent grill cafe all run by the family. Also has cosy studios which sleep four (€90).

Porto Scoutari HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33123; www.portoscoutari.com; d incl breakfast €145-235; paiWs)

Focused around a lavish swimming pool and spa centre, this was the first luxe hotel on the island and in many ways is still the grandest. It surveys the Aegean from a rural spot 3km north of Skala. Enjoy palace-sized rooms with nautical frescoes, sofas, spotless bathrooms, private balconies and antique beds plus, above all, stunning sea views. Check for amazing low-season rates.

George’s PlaceCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31881; Kambos Beach; snacks €6-10; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; paWc)S

Super-chilled beach bar, accessed straight off the sand, with an enticingly shaded, sun-dappled terrace facing the peacock-blue bay. Easy tunes, wi-fi, toilets that can double as changing rooms, and a simple menu of salads, homemade pies, chocolate cake, milkshakes and pastries keep the customers happy.

Livadi Geranou TavernaTAVERNA€

(%22470 32046; Livadi Geranou Beach; mains €9-12; h10am-late)

With its flower-bedecked terrace perched on the heather-clad hillside at road’s end, a few metres above the beach, this hugely popular taverna benefits from heavenly sea views. Feast on a seafood spread of whitebait and octopus, or opt for a simple platter of meatballs or souvlakia.

LeonidasTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Lambi; mains €10; pav)S

Sitting on the crest of the hill overlooking Lambi Beach, Leonidas has a flower-filled terrace with food to match the serene view. Dine on souvlakia, stifadho (meat, game or seafood cooked with onions in a tomato purée), calf's liver, as well as the catch of the day.

South of Skala

The southern half of Patmos is scattered with small, tree-filled valleys and picturesque beaches. The first settlement south of Skala is tiny, peaceful Sapsila. Grikos, 1km further along over the hill, has a long, sandy beach that holds a handful of tavernas and is dominated by a plush resort hotel. St John is believed to have baptised islanders here during the 1st century AD, at a spot now marked by the chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos.

South again, Petra Beach is peaceful and has plenty of shade, while a spit leads out to the startling Kalikatsos Rock. Both a rough coastal track from the beach and a longer paved road from Hora continue as far as Diakofti, the island’s southernmost community. From there, a demanding half-hour hiking trail scrambles over the rocky hillside to reach the fine, tree-shaded stretch of sand known as Psili Ammos Beach, which holds a seasonal taverna. It's bewitchingly pretty and utterly isolated; if you've got kids with you, it's safer for you to hire a boat from Skala to get here.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mathios StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 32583; www.mathiosapartments.gr; Sapsila; studio/apt €70/80; aiW)

Located 2.5km south of Skala in sleepy Sapsila, Mathios has five studios and two apartments fully equipped with kitchen, fridge, bathroom and balcony, with lush views of the gas-blue bay below. The style is rustic-chic complemented by quirky driftwood sculptures scattered about the grounds, while the owners do their best to make you feel at home. Also available in winter.

oPatmos Aktis SuitesDESIGN HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 32800; www.patmosaktis.gr/en; Grikos Bay; r from €390; paWs)

Sitting upon Grikos Beach, Patmos' newest design hotel leaps from a David Hockney painting with its sleek geometric aesthetic and cube-white suites. Expect rain showers and private terraces giving onto a swimming pool metres from your bed. There's a great restaurant serving up contemporary Greek food, plus facilities ranging from massage treatments in the sumptuous spa to gym and boutique.

Flisvos RestaurantSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31380; mains €8; h9am-7pm)

Simple family-run taverna a short walk from Petra Beach, with zesty Greek salads, super-fresh seafood, souvlakia, homemade pies and a peaceful setting to tie it all together. If you're lucky there may be some live bouzouki music in the evening.

BenetosGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 33089; www.benetosrestaurant.com; Sapsila; mains €10-27; h7.30pm-late Tue-Sun Jun-Sep; v)S

Dropping down to the sea from the coast road, a couple of kilometres south of Skala, this romantic boutique restaurant, and recently added tapas bar, is set on a working farm. The menu draws its inspiration from all over the Mediterranean; think stuffed zucchini blossoms with turmeric sauce, octopus confit with eggplant salad, and calamari with red pepper sauce.

Lipsi ΛΕΙΨΟΙ

Pop 700

Lipsi might be small, at just 8km in length, but what a powerful impact it has on the traveller, with its low-slung harbour bunched with crayon-yellow nets and the whitewashed, church-crowned village of Lipsi climbing the hill behind. If rugged hills, serene blue coves and deserted beaches are what you seek, you may have just found heaven. In the 'Odyssey', Lipsi was where the nymph Calypso waylaid Odysseus for several years. Abandon yourself to sun-worshipping and wandering the backstreets, and you may fare the same.

Check too the local speciality, myzithra cheese, made from goat’s milk and seawater, and pick up a jar of distinctive thyme honey.

8Getting There & Away

Lipsi has frequent connections with its neighbours. Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans head north to Arki, Agathonisi and Samos, and south to Patmos, Leros, Kos and other islands. The Nisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) runs to Patmos, Leros and the islets to the north three to four times weekly, while the Patmos Star sails to both Patmos and Leros, daily in summer. The Lipsi-based Anna Express (%22479 41382; www.annaexpress.eu) sails three times weekly to Leros and Myrties on western Kalymnos.

A small office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41290; h8am-4pm) on the ferry jetty sells all boat tickets.

Boat Services from Lipsi

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Agathonisi	Lipsi	3hr	8	4 weekly
Agathonisi*	Lipsi	1hr 25min	13.50	1 weekly
Kalymnos	Lipsi	3hr	8	4 weekly
Kalymnos*	Lipsi	1½hr	22	1 daily
Kos*	Lipsi	4½hr	29	1 daily
Leros	Lipsi	50min	8.50	3 weekly
Leros*	Lipsi	20min	15	1 daily
Patmos	Lipsi	1hr	6	1 weekly
Patmos*	Lipsi	25min	13.50	1 daily
Piraeus	Lipsi	10hr	41	1 weekly
Rhodes*	Lipsi	5½hr	47	1 daily
Samos*	Lipsi	1½hr	32	1 daily except Tue

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Frequent buses connect Lipsi Village with the main island beaches in summer. There are also two taxis (%mobile 6942428223, mobile 6942409679). Hire scooters and bicycles in Lipsi Village from Maria & Marcos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22479 41358), next to Poseidon Apartments.

Lipsi Village Λειψοί

Pop 600

Hugging the deep harbour, Lipsi Village – the island’s only settlement – is a cosy, intimate affair, with an atmospheric old town of blue-shuttered houses radiating up the hill in a tangle of alleyways. The harbour is the hub of the action and there’s everything you need here, from an ATM and a great bakery, to delectable seafood restaurants. Be sure to visit the beautiful blue-domed church of Panagia tou Harou, with its panoramic harbour-view terrace.

The closest beach to the village, Liendou Beach is a couple of minutes’ walk north of the ferry port over a small headland. It’s a narrow strip of sand, washed by calm, shallow water.

2Activities

Rena Five Island CruiseBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %694733 9141; www.facebook.com/pg/Rena5IslandCruise; adult/child €25/10; c)

Sailing since 1980, Rena, a traditional wooden caïque, offers summer excursions from Lipsi’s smaller jetty to islets Aspronisia, Makronisi (with their sapphire waters and weird rock formations), and Tiganakia, Marathi and Arki, for a picnic and swim.

zFestivals & Events

Panagia tou HarouRELIGIOUS

(h22 Aug)

Each year on 22 August, visitors flock to pay homage to a famous icon of the Virgin in the village church. They come to see the lilies inside its glass cabinet, which, despite being rootless and unwatered, burst miraculously into bloom. A procession is followed by all-night revelry in the lower square.

Wine FestivalFOOD & DRINK

(hAug)

This Dionysian festival takes place for three days with dancing and free wine. Check locally for precise dates.

4Sleeping

oNefeli HotelAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41120; www.lipsinefelihotel.com; studio/apt incl breakfast €90/110; paW)

Stylish, welcoming boutique hotel in splendid isolation above lovely Kambos Beach, 10 minutes’ walk north of the village. The apartments are spacious, with comfy beds, kitchenettes, sofa beds and private sea-view patios. Prepare to be lulled to sleep by the call of owls. There’s also an opulent bar, lounge and dining area, bedecked in lavender and purples.

oRizos StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6976244125; www.facebook.com/rizosstudios; d €70; aW)

Rizos' rooms have Aegean-blue and white, and biscuit and powder-blue colour themes, and are bursting with chi-chi panache. Flagstone floors, shabby-chic furniture, fine views from private balconies and fully equipped kitchens. It’s 10 minutes’ walk up from the dock; call ahead to be picked up, and book ahead in high season as, unsurprisingly, it sells out quickly.

Angela StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41177, 6983666611; www.lipsiangela.eu; Waterfront; studio/apt €70/80; aW)

Angela has wrought-iron beds, sparkling kitchenettes fridge and microwave, plus a dividing curtain to allow for privacy. Add to this balconies with sea views and a delicious little cafe and you need look no further. Close to the ferry dock.

5Eating

oManolis TastesTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41065; www.manolistastes.com; mains €8-10; hnoon-4pm & 5.30pm-late; W)S

In a handsome 19th-century neoclassical building (and former Italian Police station), Manolis Tastes has a roof terrace and upstairs lounge, and fine dining in a cream-and-wood interior. The real draw is Chef Manolis, his culinary flair recognised as far away as Athens. Mussels with ouzo, and pork with mustard and honey, are just a few of the splendid dishes served here.

Angela CafeCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6983666611; Harbour; snacks €4; h8am-late; aW)

This new and decidedly chic little cafe with lavender and white trim has an intimate interior for snacks, coffee and cocktails, and a breezy sea-facing outside terrace.

Kairis Lipsi Bakery ShopBAKERY€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41050; sweets €1-3; h24hr; aWc)S

This lively bakery-gelateria-cafe, beside the steps up to the village centre, is the social hub of the island and stays open all night. It’s a veritable treasure trove of fresh-baked cookies, croissants, sausage rolls, pies, sandwiches, baklava, alcohol and some very fancy cakes, presided over by its charming and gregarious owner. Fight your way through the locals for a seat.

Cafe du MoulinCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41316; mains €9; h8am-late; aW)S

Tucked in the cool shadows of a little square by the church of Panagia tou Harou, this restaurant is run by a house-proud French, English and Italian speaking lady. It serves up great-value, tasty food: Lipsi goat with mustard, souvlakia, saganaki (fried cheese) and octopus salad. You can also get breakfast here.

8Information

The main ferry jetty is at the northern, left-hand end of the port; there’s an Alpha Bank with ATM nearby. Following the quay towards the village centre, up on the hill ahead, you’ll pass the smaller excursion-boat jetty, while the Anna Express docks immediately below the church. The post office is up in the old town.

Lipsi Bookings ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41130; www.lipsibookings.com; h9am-1pm & 3pm-7pm) Very helpful agency alongside Poseidon Studios by the port, selling tickets for all ferries and organising activities including camping, hiking, horse riding, sailing, snorkelling and visits to a winery and eco-farm.

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41222) At the port.

Port Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41133) At the port.

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-3pm Jul-Sep)

Around Lipsi

Lipsi is remarkably green for a Greek island. Walking to its further-flung beaches leads you through countryside dotted with olive groves, cypress trees and endless views. A minibus also services the main beaches.

Just 1km north of Lipsi Village, around the headland beyond Liendou Beach, Kambos Beach is narrower but sandier than its neighbour and somewhat shaded by tamarisk trees. The water is also deeper and rockier underfoot.

Fork inland at Kambos and a delightful 2.5km hike over the low-lying spine of the island will lead you to the shallow and child-friendly Platys Gialos Beach. Ringing with goat bells and shelving gently into crystal-clear water, it’s home to an excellent summer-only taverna, which closes at 6pm.

Just 2km south of Lipsi Village, sandy Katsadia Beach is wilder, especially if it’s windy. There’s a certain amount of shade and another good summer-only taverna, which stays open late as a bar.

The beaches at Lipsi’s eastern end are harder to reach, with the roads being too rough for taxis or buses.

5Eating

Platis Gialos RestaurantTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6944963303; Platys Gialos Beach; grills €10; h8am-6pm Jul & Aug)

Sitting on the island's best beach for swimming in unbelievable turquoise water, this pleasant little taverna has decent grilled food and fresh salads.

Dilaila Cafe RestaurantTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 41041; Katasadia Beach; mains €9; hJun-Sep; pWvc)S

Tucked behind the beach at Katasadia, this inviting restaurant with colourful decor and split levels has intimate as well as communal areas to take in the stunning sea. Dishes include lentil salad with octopus, feta in honey, pork in mustard sauce, grilled tuna and many more. It costs €4 each way in a taxi from Lipsi Village.

Arki & Marathi ΑΡΚΟΙ & ΜΑΡΑΘΙ

Pop 55 (Arki)

Only 5km north of Lipsi, tiny Arki has rolling hills and secluded, sandy beaches. Away from its only settlement – a little west-coast port also called Arki – the peace and stillness verges on the mystical.

The Church of Metamorfosis stands on a hill behind the settlement, while several sandy coves can be reached along a path skirting the north side of the bay.

Tiganakia Bay, on the southeast coast, has a good sandy beach. To walk there from Arki village, follow the road heading south and then the various goat tracks down to the water. Keep an eye out for dolphins.

Marathi, the largest of Arki’s satellite islets, has a superb sandy beach. The old settlement, with an immaculate little church, stands on a hill above the harbour. While just three people remain on Marathi year-round, local families return each summer to reopen its seasonal tavernas.

4Sleeping & Eating

Arki holds a handful of tavernas with comfortable, well-maintained rooms. Bookings are essential in July and August.

Taverna NikolasPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 32477; Arki; d €50; aW)

Simple central taverna, where the spacious, white-walled, twin-bedded rooms have sunset views. As well as whatever seafood the boats have brought in, the kitchen (mains €8 to €10) dishes up potatoes au gratin, stuffed peppers with cheese, and the local goat cheese called sfina, resembling a mild form of feta.

Pantelis TavernaPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 32609; www.marathi-island.gr; Marathi; d €50; aW)

The closest Marathi comes to having a fully fledged beach resort, at the northern end of the sands. As well as spacious and attractively furnished rooms in a white-painted studio block, it also rents a larger maisonette. The taverna itself serves a fine menu of home-cooking (mains €8 to €12), from octopus croquettes to goat stew.

Taverna MihalisGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 31580; Marathi; mains €8; W)

Set on the beach, Mihalis has a simple menu of mezedhes and seafood-oriented dishes depending what the day's catch might be. Calamari, octopus, decent salads and a nice atmosphere. Also has rooms (d €40).

8Getting There & Away

Three ferry companies stop off at Arki, but not Marathi, as they sail up and down the island chain. All call at Patmos, Leros, Lipsi and Agathonisi. Weekly Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans run south as far as Kos and north to Samos. Anna Express (www.annaexpress.eu) also goes to Samos (two weekly), and Nisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) starts from Kalymnos (three to four weekly). For Marathi, a local caïque runs from Arki on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.

In summer, Lipsi-based excursion boats and Patmos-based caïques offer frequent day trips (€20) to Arki and Marathi.

Boat Services from Arki & Marathi

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Arki	Marathi	1¼hr	7	3 weekly
Kos	Arki	3hr	31	1 weekly
Lipsi	Arki	45min	13.50	6-7 weekly
Patmos	Arki	1hr	14	6-7 weekly
Samos	Arki	1hr	20	6-7 weekly

Agathonisi ΑΓΑΘΟΝΗΣΙ

Pop 160

Arriving in Agathonisi’s harbour – enclosed by a fjord-like formation and holding so few buildings you could count them in a breath – is pure magic. So far off the tourist radar its neighbours barely acknowledge it, Agathonisi is quiet enough to hear a distant Cyclops break wind. There’s little to do here but read, swim and explore the caves where islanders once hid from pirates… and then do it again!

Keep an eye out too for the klidonas ritual of jumping through fire to cleanse your spirit.

8Getting There & Away

Three ferry companies connect Agathonisi with Patmos, Lipsi and points south. Both Dodekanisos Seaways catamarans (weekly) and Anna Express (www.annaexpress.eu, two weekly) continue north to Samos; Nisos Kalymnos (www.anekalymnou.gr) only goes as far north as Pythagoreios (three to four weekly). Buy your tickets 20 minutes before departure from Savvas Kamitsis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29003), based by Mary's Rooms.

Boats dock at Agios Georgios, from where roads ascend right to Megalo Horio and left to Mikro Horio.

Boat Services from Agathonisi

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Arki	Agios Georgios	45min	5	6-7 weekly
Kalymnos*	Agios Georgios	2hr	25	1 weekly
Kos*	Agios Georgios	3¼hr	29	1 weekly
Lipsi	Agios Georgios	1hr	8	4 weekly
Patmos	Agios Georgios	2hr	16	1 weekly
Samos	Agios Georgios	1hr	8	6-7 weekly

*high-speed services

Agios Georgios Αγιος Γεώργιος

The port village of Agios Georgios, the island’s primary settlement, holds a few tavernas and simple sugar-cube pensions. The high point of a day is sitting on the harbour beach pondering the turquoise and watching the fishermen roll in with their catches. Spilia Beach, 900m southwest beyond the headland, along a track around the far side of the bay, is quieter and better for swimming. A further 1km walk will bring you to Gaïdouravlakos, a small bay and beach where water from one of the island’s few springs meets the sea.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mary’s RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29003; www.maryroomsagathonisi.com; Agios Georgios; s/d €30/40)

Very simple but spic-and-span rooms in the middle of the waterfront, offering kitchenettes, fridges and tiny balconies with sea views. There’s also a flower-filled courtyard.

Glaros RestaurantTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29062; Agios Georgios; mains €9-12; hlunch & dinner; Wv)

Of the few harbourside tavernas, the bougainvillea-draped terrace of the 'Seagull' is probably the best place to dine. Owners Voula and Giannis are very engaging and serve markakia (feta fingers in vine leaves with a special sauce), along with standard oven-cooked meals, grills and fish dishes, all made from predominantly organic produce.

Megalo Horio

The tiny hamlet of Megalo Horio is a steep and sweaty 1.5km trek uphill from the harbour, but the effort is rewarded by the stupendous views from the cliff. The village barely stirs until June, and the ideal times to come are for the festivals of Agiou Panteleimonos (26 July), Sotiros (6 August) and Panagias (22 August), when Megalo Horio celebrates with abundant food, music and dancing.

A series of accessible beaches lie within easy walking distance to the east: Tsangari Beach, Tholos Beach, Poros Beach – the only sandy option – and Tholos (Agios Nikolaos) Beach, close to the eponymous church.

4Sleeping & Eating

Studios AgelikiAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29085; Megalo Horio; s/d €35/45; aW)

If you prefer an even quieter stay than at the port, these four basic but quite comfortable studios will serve you very well. All have stunning views over a small vineyard and down to the port, and come equipped with kitchenette, fridge and bathroom.

Restaurant IriniGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22470 29054; Megalo Horio; mains €7; hlunch & dinner; W)

Welcoming taverna on Megalo Horio’s central square, renowned for its rich lamb stew and meaty stifadho (meat, game or seafood cooked with onions in a tomato purée).