Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Visitors to Greece with EU passports are rarely given more than a cursory glance, but customs and police may be interested in what you are carrying. EU citizens may also enter Greece on a national identity card.

Visitors from outside the EU may require a visa. Be sure to check with consular authorities before you arrive.

Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO₂, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO₂) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Air

Airports & Airlines

Greece has four main international airports.

Other international airports across the country include Santorini (Thira), Karpathos, Samos, Skiathos, Kefallonia and Zakynthos. These airports are most often used for charter flights from the UK, Germany and Scandinavia.

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Near Spata, 27km east of Athens. It has all the modern conveniences, including 24-hour luggage storage in the arrivals hall and a children's playroom, and even a small archaeological museum above the check-in hall for passing time.

Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport About 5km east of Iraklio (Crete). Has a bank, ATM, duty-free shop and cafe-bar.

Diagoras Airport On the island of Rhodes.

Macedonia International Airport (SKG; GOOGLE MAP ; %2310 985 000; www.thessalonikiairport.com) About 17km southeast of Thessaloniki. Served by local bus 78 (half-hourly); a taxi costs around €15 to €20.

Greek Airlines

Aegean Airlines (A3; %801 112 0000; www.aegeanair.com) and its subsidiary, Olympic Air (%801 801 0101; www.olympicair.com), have flights between Athens and destinations throughout Europe, as well as to Cairo, İstanbul, Tel Aviv, New York and Toronto. They also operate flights throughout Greece, many of which transfer in Athens. Both airlines have exemplary safety records.

Tickets

If you're coming from outside Europe, consider a cheap flight to a European hub (eg London) and then an onward ticket with a charter airline such as easyJet (U2; %210 967 0000; www.easyjet.com), who offer some of the cheapest tickets between Greece and the rest of Europe. Some airlines also offer cheap deals to students. If you're planning to travel between June and September, it's wise to book ahead.

Land

If you travel by land you can really appreciate the landscape, as well as the many experiences that go along with train or bus travel. International train travel, in particular, has become much more feasible in recent years, with speedier trains and better connections. You can now travel from London to Athens by train and ferry in less than two days. By choosing to travel on the ground instead of the air, you'll also be reducing your carbon footprint.

OVERLAND FROM WESTERN EUROPE

If you're keen to travel without flying and enjoy the independence of a road trip, you can reach Greece by heading overland to an Italian port and hopping on a ferry. A high-speed ferry from Venice to Patra takes around 26 hours. Patra to Athens is a 3½-hour drive.

Fancy a bit more convenience and speed than a bus or a car? Overland enthusiasts can reach Greece by rail through the Balkan Peninsula, passing through Croatia, Serbia and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia. Or head to the eastern coast of Italy (there are connections throughout most of Europe) and then take a ferry to Greece. Not only will you be doing your bit for the planet, but you'll see some gorgeous scenery from your window.

A sample itinerary from London would see you catching the Eurostar to Paris and then an overnight sleeper train to Bologna in Italy. From there, a coastal train takes you to Bari, where there's an overnight boat to Patra on the Peloponnese. From Patra, it's a 4½-hour train journey to Athens. You'll be in Athens within two days of leaving London. See www.raileurope.com for routes and tickets.

Greece is part of the Eurail network (www.eurail.com). Eurail passes can be bought only by residents of non-European countries; they should be purchased before arriving in Europe, but can be bought in Europe if your passport proves that you've been there for less than six months. Greece is also part of the Inter-Rail Pass system (www.interrail.eu), available to those who have resided in Europe for six months or more, and the Rail Plus Balkan Flexipass (www.raileurope.com), which offers unlimited travel for five, 10 or 15 days within a month. See the websites for full details of passes and prices.

Border Crossings

Due to the current refugee crisis, make sure you have all of your visas sorted out before attempting to cross land borders into or out of Greece. At the time of writing, all migrants were being denied access to the borders, while EU passport holders were allowed across. As the situation is volatile, it's worth checking in to the relevant embassies before travelling.

Albania

The main crossing at Kakavia can have intensely slow queues.

Kakavia 60km northwest of Ioannina

Krystallopigi 14km west of Kotas on the Florina–Kastoria road

Mertziani 17km west of Konitsa

Sagiada 28km north of Igoumenitsa

Albatrans (%+355 42 259 204; www.albatrans.com.al) Buses between Greece and Albania.

Bulgaria

As Bulgaria is part of the EU, crossings are usually quick and hassle-free.

Exohi A 448m-tunnel border crossing 50km north of Drama

Ormenio 41km from Serres in northeastern Thrace

Promahonas 109km northeast of Thessaloniki

Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM)

Doïrani 31km north of Kilkis

Evzoni 68km north of Thessaloniki

Niki 16km north of Florina

Turkey

Kipi is more convenient if you're heading for İstanbul. The route through Kastanies goes via Soufli and Didymotiho in Greece, and Edirne (ancient Adrianoupolis) in Turkey.

Kastanies 139km northeast of Alexandroupoli

Kipi 43km east of Alexandroupoli

Train

The Greek railways organisation OSE runs daily trains from Thessaloniki to Sofia and to Belgrade (via Skopje), with a weekly onward train to and from Budapest.

Sea

Ferries can get very crowded in summer. If you want to take a vehicle across it's wise to make a reservation beforehand. The services indicated are for high season (July and August). Please note that tickets for all ferries to Turkey must be bought a day in advance – and you will almost certainly be asked to turn in your passport the night before the trip. It will be returned the next day before you board the boat. Port tax for departures to Turkey is around €15.

Another way to visit Greece by sea is to join one of the many cruises that ply the Aegean.

International Ferry Routes

Destination	Departure Point	Arrival Point	Duration	Frequency
Albania	Corfu	Saranda	25min	1 daily
Italy	Patra	Ancona	20hr	3 daily
Italy	Patra	Bari	14½hr	1 daily
Italy	Corfu	Bari	8hr	1 daily
Italy	Kefallonia	Bari	14hr	1 daily
Italy	Corfu	Bari	10hr	1 daily
Italy	Igoumenitsa	Bari	11½hr	1 daily
Italy	Patra	Brindisi	15hr	1 daily
Italy	Corfu	Brindisi	6hr	1 daily
Italy	Kefallonia	Brindisi	12hr	1 daily
Italy	Zakynthos	Brindisi	15hr	1 daily
Italy	Patra	Venice	30hr	12 weekly
Italy	Corfu	Venice	25hr	12 weekly
Turkey	Chios	Ċeşme	1½hr	1 daily
Turkey	Kos	Bodrum	1hr	1 daily
Turkey	Lesvos	Ayvalik	1hr	1 daily
Turkey	Rhodes	Marmaris	50min	2 daily
Turkey	Samos	Kuşadası	1½hr	2 daily

Getting Around

Air

The vast majority of domestic mainland flights are handled by the country's national carrier Aegean Airlines and its subsidiary, Olympic Air. You'll find offices wherever there are flights, as well as in other major towns. There are also a number of smaller Greek carriers, including Crete-based airlines Astra Airlines (%2310 489 391; www.astra-airlines.gr) and Sky Express.

There are discounts for return tickets for travel between Monday and Thursday, and bigger discounts for trips that include a Saturday night away. Find full details and timetables on airline websites.

The baggage allowance on domestic flights is 15kg, or 20kg if the domestic flight is part of an international journey.

Bicycle

Cycling is not popular among Greeks – but it's gaining kudos with tourists. You'll need strong leg muscles to tackle the mountains; or just stick to some of the flatter coastal routes. Bike lanes are rare to non-existent; helmets are not compulsory. The island of Kos is about the most bicycle-friendly place in Greece, as is anywhere flat, such as the plains of Thessaly or Thrace.

AYou can hire bicycles in most tourist places, but they are not as widely available as cars and motorcycles. Prices range from €10 to €15 per day, depending on the type and age of the bike.

ABicycles are carried free on ferries. You can buy decent mountain or touring bikes in Greece's major towns, though you may have a problem finding a ready buyer if you wish to sell it on. Bike prices are much the same as across the rest of Europe: from €300 to €2000.

Boat

Greece has an extensive network of ferries – the only means of reaching many of the islands. Schedules are often subject to delays due to poor weather and industrial action, and prices fluctuate regularly. In summer, ferries run regular services between all but the most out-of-the-way destinations; however, services seriously slow down in winter (and in some cases stop completely).

Domestic Ferry Operators

Ferry companies have local offices on many of the islands.

Aegean Flying Dolphins (www.aegeanflyingdolphins.gr) Hydrofoils between Athens, Aegina and the Sporades.

Aegean Speed Lines (www.aegeanspeedlines.gr) Super-speedy boats between Athens and the Cyclades.

Aegeon Pelagos (www.anek.gr) A subsidiary of ANEK Lines.

ANEK Lines (www.anek.gr) Crete-based long-haul ferries. Their Igoumenitsa–Patra route is now jointly operated by Superfast Ferries.

ANES (www.anes.gr) Old-style ferries servicing Evia and the Sporades.

Anna Express (www.annaexpress.eu) Small, fast ferry connecting the northern Dodecanese.

Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com) Long-haul, high-speed ferries and Sea Jet catamarans between the mainland, the Cyclades, the northeast Aegean Islands, Crete and the Dodecanese.

Dodekanisos Seaways (www.12ne.gr) Runs large, high-speed catamarans in the Dodecanese.

Glyfa Ferries (www.ferriesglyfa.gr) Comfortable short-haul ferry services between Glyfa on the mainland and Agiokambos in northern Evia.

Fast Ferries (www.fastferries.com.gr) Comfortable ferries from Rafina to the Cyclades islands of Andros, Tinos, Naxos and Mykonos.

Hellenic Seaways (www.hellenicseaways.gr) Conventional long-haul ferries and catamarans from the mainland to the Cyclades and between the Sporades and Saronic Islands.

Ionian Ferries (www.ionianferries.gr) Large ferries serving the Ionian Islands.

LANE Lines (www.ferries.gr/lane) Long-haul ferries serving the Ionians, Dodecanese and Crete.

Minoan Lines (www.minoan.gr) High-speed luxury ferries between Piraeus and Iraklio, and Patra, Igoumenitsa and Corfu.

Patmos Star (www.patmos-star.com) Small, local ferry linking Patmos, Leros and Lipsi in the Dodecanese.

SAOS Lines (www.saos.gr) Big, slow boats calling in at many of the islands.

Sea Jets (www.seajets.gr) Catamarans calling at Athens, Crete, Santorini (Thira), Paros and many islands in between.

Skyros Shipping Company (www.sne.gr) Slow boat between Skyros and Kymi on Evia.

Superfast Ferries (www.superfast.com) As the name implies, speedy ferries from the mainland to Crete, Corfu and Patra. Their Igoumenitsa–Patra route is jointly operated with ANEK Lines.

Ventouris Ferries (www.ventourissealines.gr) Big boats from the mainland to the Cyclades.

Zante Ferries (www.zanteferries.gr) Older ferries connecting the mainland with the western Cyclades.

Bus

The bus network is comprehensive. All long-distance buses, on the mainland and the islands, are operated by regional collectives known as KTEL (www.ktelbus.com). Details of inter-urban buses throughout Greece are available by dialling 14505. Bus fares are fixed by the government and are very reasonable. A journey costs approximately €5 per 100km.

Services

Every prefecture on the mainland has a KTEL, which operates local services within it and to the main towns of other prefectures. The islands of Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos can also be reached directly from Athens by bus – the fares include the price of the ferry ticket.

Most villages have a daily bus service of some sort, although remote areas may have only one or two buses a week. They operate for the benefit of people going to town to shop, rather than for tourists, and consequently leave the villages very early in the morning and return early in the afternoon.

Practicalities

AIt is important to note that big cities like Athens and Iraklio may have more than one bus station, each serving different regions. Make sure you find the correct station for your destination. In small towns and villages the 'bus station' may be no more than a bus stop outside a kafeneio (coffee house) or taverna that doubles as a booking office.

AIn remote areas, the timetable may be in Greek only, but most booking offices have timetables in both Greek and Roman script, and many bus stations are now posting them online.

AIt's best to turn up at least 20 minutes before departure to make sure you get a seat – buses have been known to leave a few minutes before their scheduled departure.

AWhen you buy a ticket you may be allotted a seat number, printed on the ticket. The seat number is indicated on the back of each seat of the bus, not on the back of the seat in front; this causes confusion among Greeks and tourists alike. Often, the seat numbers are simply ignored.

AYou can board a bus without a ticket and pay on board, but on a popular route or during high season, you may have to stand.

AThe KTEL buses are safe and modern, and these days most are air conditioned – at least on major routes. In more remote, rural areas they tend to be older and less comfortable. Buses on less-frequented routes do not usually have toilets on board and stop about every three hours on long journeys.

ASmoking is prohibited on all buses in Greece.

Car & Motorcycle

No one who has travelled on Greece's roads will be surprised to hear that the country's road fatality rate is one of the highest in Europe. More than a thousand people die on the roads every year, with 10 times that number of people injured. Overtaking is listed as the greatest cause of accidents.

Heart-stopping moments aside, your own car is a great way to explore off the beaten track. The road network has improved enormously in recent years; many roads marked as dirt tracks on older maps have now been asphalted and many of the islands have very little traffic. There are regular (if costly) car-ferry services to almost all islands.

Practicalities

Automobile Association Greece's domestic automobile association is ELPA.

Entry EU-registered vehicles enter free for up to six months without road taxes being due. A green card (international third-party insurance) is required, along with proof of date of entry (ferry ticket or your passport stamp). Non-EU-registered vehicles may be logged in your passport.

Driving Licence EU driving licences are valid in Greece. Drivers from outside the EU may require International Driving Permits; while rental agencies will rarely ask for one, local authorities may if you're stopped. International Driving Permits can only be obtained in the country where your driving licence was issued.

Fuel Available widely throughout the country, though service stations may be closed on weekends and public holidays. On the islands, there may be only one petrol station; check where it is before you head out. Self-service and credit-card pumps are not the norm in Greece. Petrol is cheaper here than in many European countries, but expensive by American or Australian standards.

Petrol types:

ASuper leaded

Aamolyvdi unleaded

Apetreleo kinisis diesel

Hire

Cars

AAll the big multinational companies are represented in Athens; most have branches in major towns and popular tourist destinations. The majority of islands have at least one outlet.

ABy Greek law, rental cars have to be replaced every six years, so most vehicles you hire will be relatively new.

AThe minimum driving age in Greece is 18 years, but most car-hire firms require you to be at least 21 (or 23 for larger vehicles).

AHigh-season weekly rates with unlimited mileage start at about €280 for the smallest models (eg a Fiat Seicento), dropping to about €200 per week in winter. These prices don't include local tax (known as VAT).

AYou can often find great deals at local companies. Their advertised rates can be up to 50% cheaper than the multinationals and they are normally open to negotiation, especially if business is slow.

AOn the islands, you can rent a car for the day for around €35 to €60, including all insurance and taxes.

AAlways check what the insurance includes; there are often rough roads or dangerous routes that you can only tackle by renting a 4WD.

AIf you want to take a hire car to another country or on to a ferry, you will need advance written authorisation from the hire company, as the insurance may not cover you.

AUnless you pay with a credit card, most hire companies will require a minimum deposit of €120 per day.

The major car-hire companies in Greece:

Avis (www.avis.gr)

Budget (www.budget.gr)

Europcar (www.europcar.gr)

Motorcycles

AMopeds, motorcycles and scooters are available for hire wherever there are tourists to rent them. Most machines are newish and in good condition. Nonetheless, check the brakes at the earliest opportunity.

AYou must produce a licence that shows proficiency to ride the category of bike you wish to rent; this applies to everything from 50cc up. British citizens must obtain a Category A licence from the Driver & Vehicle Licensing Agency (www.dft.gov.uk/dvla) in the UK (in most other EU countries, separate licences are automatically issued).

ARates start from about €20 per day for a moped or 50cc motorcycle, ranging to €35 per day for a 250cc motorcycle. Out of season these prices drop considerably, so use your bargaining skills.

AMost motorcycle hirers include third-party insurance in the price, but it's wise to check this. This insurance will not include medical expenses.

AHelmets are compulsory, and rental agencies are obliged to offer one as part of the hire deal.

Road Conditions

AMain highways in Greece have been improving steadily over the years but many still don't offer smooth driving.

ASome main roads retain the two-lane/hard-shoulder format of the 1960s, which can be confusing and even downright dangerous.

ARoadworks can take years and years in Greece – especially on the islands, where funding often only trickles in. In other cases, excellent new tarmac roads may have appeared that are not on any local maps.

Road Hazards

ASlow drivers – many of them unsure and hesitant tourists – can cause serious traffic events on Greece's roads.

ARoad surfaces can change rapidly when a section of road has succumbed to subsidence or weathering. Snow and ice can be a serious challenge in winter, and drivers are advised to carry snow chains. In rural areas, keep a close eye out for animals wandering on to roads.

ARoads passing through mountainous areas are often littered with fallen rocks, which can cause extensive damage to a vehicle's underside or throw a motorbike rider.

Road Rules

AIn Greece, as throughout Continental Europe, you drive on the right and overtake on the left.

AOutside built-up areas, traffic on a main road has right of way at intersections. In towns, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. This includes roundabouts – even if you're on the roundabout, you must give way to drivers coming on to the roundabout to your right.

ASeat belts must be worn in front seats, and in back seats if the car is fitted with them.

AChildren under 12 years of age are not allowed in the front seat.

AIt is compulsory to carry a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher and warning triangle, and it is forbidden to carry cans of petrol.

AHelmets are compulsory for motorcyclists if the motorcycle is 50cc or more. Police will book you if you're caught without a helmet.

AOutside residential areas, the speed limit is 120km/h on highways, 90km/h on other roads and 50km/h in built-up areas. The speed limit for motorcycles up to 100cc is 70km/h; for larger motorcycles, 90km/h. Drivers exceeding the speed limit by 20% are liable to receive a fine of €60; exceeding it by 40% costs €150.

AA blood-alcohol content of 0.05% can incur a fine of €150, while over 0.08% is a criminal offence.

AIf you are involved in an accident and no one is hurt, the police will not be required to write a report, but it is advisable to go to a nearby police station and explain what happened. You may need a police report for insurance purposes. If an accident involves injury, a driver who does not stop and does not inform the police may face a prison sentence.

MOTORCYCLE WARNING

Greece is not the best place to initiate yourself into motorcycling. There are still a lot of gravel roads, particularly on the islands, and dozens of tourists have accidents every year. Scooters are particularly prone to sliding on gravelly bends. Try to hire a motorcycle with thinner-profile tyres. If you plan to use a motorcycle or moped, check that your travel insurance covers you: many insurance companies don't cover motorcycle accidents. Another option gaining popularity on the islands is to rent quad bikes – they're slightly more expensive but don't require a motorcycle licence.

Hitching

Hitching is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we don't recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs; they should let someone know where they are planning to go. In particular, it is unwise for women to hitch alone; women are better off hitching with a male companion.

Some parts of Greece are much better for hitching than others. Getting out of major cities tends to be hard work, and Athens is notoriously difficult. Hitching is much easier in remote areas and on islands with poor public transport. On country roads it is not unknown for someone to stop and ask if you want a lift, even if you haven't stuck a thumb out.

Local Transport

Bus

Most Greek towns are small enough to get around on foot. All the major towns have local buses, but the only place you're likely to need them is in Athens.

Metro

Athens is the only city in Greece large enough to warrant the building of an underground system. Note that only Greek student cards are valid for a student ticket on the metro.

Taxi

Taxis are widely available in Greece, except on very small or remote islands. They are reasonably priced by European standards, especially if three or four people share costs. Many taxi drivers now have satnav systems in their cars, so finding a destination is a breeze as long as you have the exact address.

Yellow city cabs are metered, with rates doubling between midnight and 5am. Additional costs are charged for trips from an airport or a bus, port or train station, as well as for each piece of luggage over 10kg. Grey rural taxis do not have meters, so you should always settle on a price before you get in.

Some taxi drivers in Athens have been known to overcharge unwary travellers. If you have a complaint about a taxi driver, take the cab number and report your complaint to the tourist police. Taxi drivers in other towns in Greece are, on the whole, friendly, helpful and honest.

Tours

Tours are worth considering if your time is very limited or if you prefer someone else do the planning. In Athens, you'll find countless day tours, with some agencies offering two- or three-day trips to nearby sights. For something on a larger scale, try Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com; offices in Australia, the UK and the USA): they offer an eight-day sailing tour from Santorini to Mykonos (€1010) and an eight-day tour from Athens to Santorini (€1320), including everything except meals and flights. Encounter Greece (www.encountergreece.com) offers a plethora of tours; a 13-day tour across the country costs €1445. (Flights to Greece are not included.)

More adventurous tours include guided activities such as hiking, climbing, white-water rafting, kayaking, canoeing or canyoning.

Train

Trains are operated by the Greek railways organisation OSE (Organismos Sidirodromon Ellados; %14511; www.trainose.gr). The Greek railway network is limited; its northern line is the most substantial. Standard-gauge service runs from Athens to Dikea in the northeast via Thessaloniki and Alexandroupoli. There are also connections to Florina and the Pelion Peninsula. The Peloponnese network runs only as far as Klato, with bus services to Plata for ferry connections.

Due to financial instability, prices and schedules are very changeable. When you can, double-check on the OSE website. Information on departures from Athens or Thessaloniki is also available by calling 1440.

Classes

There are two types of service: regular (slow) trains that stop at all stations, and faster, modern intercity (IC) trains that link most major cities. The slow trains represent the country's cheapest form of public transport: 2nd-class fares are absurdly cheap, and even 1st class is cheaper than bus travel.

The IC trains that link the major Greek cities are an excellent way to travel. The services are not necessarily fast – Greece is far too mountainous for that – but the trains are modern and comfortable. There are 1st- and 2nd-class tickets and a cafe-bar on board. On some services, meals can be ordered and delivered to your seat. The night service between Athens and Thessaloniki also offers a choice of couchettes, two-bed compartments and single compartments.

Train Passes

AEurail, Inter-Rail and Rail Plus Balkan Flexipass cards are valid in Greece, but they're generally not worth buying if Greece is the only place where you plan to use them. For IC and sleeper cars, a costly supplement is required.

AOn presentation of ID or passports, passengers more than 60 years old are entitled to a 25% discount on all lines, except in July and August and over the Easter week.

AWhatever pass you have, you must have a reservation to board the train.