THE REFRESHING SOUPS in this chapter will help keep you cool inside and out in hot weather and most are made without stock. They include two different gazpachos, one based on tomato and one based on green grapes. These are essentially salad soups from the Spanish and Arabic traditions, tart with a few drops of vinegar and enriched with the fruity green olive Spain exports in great quantities.
Bright and lively sweet green pea soup is garnished with snow pea julienne and served in small shooter glasses.
You may not be familiar with cold fruit soups such as the simmered, strained and Chilled Apricot Soup with Star Anise (page 134). These soups come from the eastern and northern European tradition of serving cold, clear fruit soup in summer made from fresh stone fruits such as apricots, plums, and cherries, or berries such as red currants, raspberries, and bilberries (alternatively, it is made in winter from dried fruits). Apples, gooseberries, rose hips, and rhubarb also show up in fruit soup. The soup may be thin and delicate or thickened and substantial or even served molded like kisel, not far from the classic French consommé madrilène, a jellied clear tomato soup now out of fashion.
Kisel is a Slavic fruit soup, popular as a dessert, made from sweetened fruit juice with red wine, fresh or dried fruits, thickened with starch. It is similar to Danish rodegrod and German rote grütze. Kisel can be served either hot or cold, and it is served with sweetened quark—a very tart fresh cheese—or semolina pudding. It may top pancakes or ice cream. In Russia, kisel is usually thinner and served as a drink. Schav is another Russian summer cold soup made from sour sorrel leaves and smetana—sour cream. Tartness from fruits, herbs, and berries, and tangy fresh dairy products such as sour cream, buttermilk, and yogurt are common denominators of traditional chilled northern summer soups. Lemon and vinegar play the same refreshing role in Spanish gazpacho.
The Chilled Melon, Yogurt, and Ginger Soup (page 136) is a purée of ripe summer melon accented by tart yogurt and grated fresh ginger root, which should be served within a few days as the uncooked melon purée won’t keep long. The brightly colored Chilled Green Pea and Snow Pea Soup with Mint (page 142) is flavored with cooling mint and easy to make using frozen baby peas.
With all chilled soups, season generously, as cold dulls flavors, and serve them quite cold in chilled bowls if possible. Garnish with a dollop of tangy sour cream or yogurt if desired. Keep in mind that soups will thicken substantially when chilled so thicken lightly. It’s your choice whether to serve fruit soup as a first course or dessert.
COLD STONE FRUIT SOUPS, a summertime favorite in the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, are typically made from apricots, prune plums, or sour cherries. The clear, wine-enhanced, slightly thickened soup is usually finished with a generous dollop of sour cream. Here we simmer the apricots in a cinnamon stick, star anise, and bay leaf-infused syrup for a spiced sweet-tart soup that may be served as either a first course, especially for lunch or brunch, or for dessert accompanied by shortbread cookies often including ground hazelnuts.
Makes about 3 quarts, 3 L, serves 6 to 9
INGREDIENTS
3 pounds (1.4 k) fresh apricots, or 1 pound dried apricots, preferably Blenheim
3/4 cup (175 ml) sugar
3/4 cup (175 ml) honey
1 stick cinnamon
4 whole star anise pods
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 (60 ml) cup cornstarch
1/2 (120 ml) cup water or orange juice
3/4 cup (175 ml) dry red wine, chilled
1 cup (235 ml) sour cream
6 to 8 star anise pods or mint sprigs (for garnish)
2. If using dried apricots, cover with cold water and soak several hours or overnight, refrigerated, until softened.
3. In a large soup pot, combine 2 quarts (2 L) water, sugar, honey, cinnamon, star anise, bay leaves, salt, and black pepper. Bring to a boil and simmer 30 minutes to infuse the liquid with the spice flavors.
4. Add the apricots and any soaking liquid and bring back to a boil, skimming off the foam impurities. Reduce the heat and simmer until the apricots are quite soft, about 30 minutes. Fish out the cinnamon stick, 4 star anise pods (count them), and 2 bay leaves.
5. Meanwhile, mix the cornstarch with 1/2 cup (120 ml) water (or orange juice) to make a slurry (thin paste).
6. Beat cornstarch slurry into the hot soup while stirring constantly. Continuing to stir, bring the soup back to a boil and then remove from heat.
7. Ladle the hot soup into a blender jar, cover tightly, and blend, always starting on the lowest speed to prevent hot soup from splattering. Blend and then strain the soup through a food mill. For a finer texture, strain again through a fine sieve, discarding any solids.
8. Cool, add the red wine, and then chill soup in the refrigerator.
9. Top each serving with a spoonful of sour cream and a star anise pod or a sprig of fresh mint.
SOUPMAKER’S TIPS
* Form the sour cream into a quenelle or egg shape using either one or two soupspoons turned around in the sour cream several times and then dropped into the soup.
Choosing dried apricots: The most common dried apricots in the market come from Turkey; they are dried in whole form with their pits removed. They are light yellow-orange with somewhat tough wrinkly skin. California apricots are pitted and halved before drying and are deeply colored with velvety skin and dense, jammy but melting texture. Soft, luscious Blenheim apricots are a highly prized variety similar to the French Royal apricot, originally grown at England’s Blenheim Castle and planted in California in the 1880s. Note that if dried apricots have sat on the shelf too long, they may be hard, dark, and leathery, so buy them from a place that turns them over quickly, such as a natural foods market.
HERE IS AN EASY WAY to make refreshing, tangy chilled soup for a hot summer’s day, though you will need a blender, a food processor, or even a vegetable juicer such as an Acme or Champion. Plan on making the soup when local juicy, sweet cantaloupes or other orange-fleshed melons, such as Tuscan, or orange-fleshed honeydew or muskmelons, are in season. Thick Greek yogurt, which is drained of its excess whey, adds a concentrated flavor. You may substitute plain yogurt for a slightly thinner soup. Cooling mint makes the soup even more refreshing.
Ingredients for melon soup. Cantaloupe is best because of its appealing orange color, but other juicy yellow or orange melons, such as Canary or Crenshaw, will also work. A yellow watermelon would make a lovely soup, but because it is so sweet, eliminate most of the honey.
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), 8 to 12 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 to 4 ripe cantaloupes, about 6 pounds (2.7 kg)
2 cups (475 ml) orange juice
1 cup (230 g) Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons (16 g) grated ginger
1/2 cup (170 g) honey
1/4 cup (23 g) mint leaves, preferably spearmint
1/2 cup (120 ml) lime juice
1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt
Grated zest of 1 lime
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
2 to 3 kiwi, cut into small cubes, for garnish
Small wedge watermelon, red and/or yellow, cut into small cubes, for garnish
Mint sprigs, for garnish
1. Prepare the melon (after washing well, see “Soupmaker’s Tips: Cantaloupes and Salmonella”) by laying it on its side and cutting off a slice from the top and bottom ends. This creates a stable flat surface for further cutting.
2. Preferably using a flexible-bladed knife (here a boning knife), cut away the outer skin and greenish layer just below the surface in strips about 11/2-inches (3.5 cm) wide.
3. Curve the knife to follow the shape of the melon. Trim away any remaining bits of green or skin.
4. Place the peeled melon with its flat side down on the work surface and then cut in half “through the poles.”
5. Open up the melon.
6. Use a large soup spoon to scrape out the inner seed portion. If desired, to extract as much juice as possible, transfer the seed portion to a sieve placed over a bowl and press to release any juices. Discard the remainder.
Cut the melon into rough cubes before proceeding with the recipe.
7. Combine the melon, orange juice, yogurt, ginger, honey, mint, lime juice, and salt in a blender jar.
8. Blend the soup ingredients until smooth. Or, place the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process—noting that a blender will yield the smoothest soup.
9. Work in two or three batches if necessary. If doing so, combine all batches in a large bowl and whisk to mix evenly.
10. Transfer the liquid to a large bowl and whisk in the lime zest and jalapeno. Chill the soup at least 1 hour before serving.
11. Pour into serving bowls, chilled if you prefer the soup extra cold, and garnish with diced kiwi and watermelon and/or a sprig of mint.
SOUPMAKER’S TIPS
* Serve this chilled soup in small glass or ceramic shooter glasses for a light and elegant make-ahead starter. This soup does not freeze well.
Cantaloupes and Salmonella: Cantaloupe melons have been linked to at least two salmonella outbreaks. To prevent any possible contamination, use a produce scrub brush, (a brush with deep bristles), to scrub the outside of the cantaloupes thoroughly before cutting them open. Afterward, wash your hands, countertops, and any kitchen tools.
GAZPACHO COMES FROM SPAIN and is the southern region of Andalusia’s best-known dish. Its origins date back to the 700-year period in which Spain was part of the Islamic world. Before Columbus brought tomatoes and peppers to the Old World, gazpacho was a simple mash of olive oil, bread, and garlic with vinegar. Modern recipes for gazpacho in the Andalusian style, served as refreshing cold soup with finely chopped garnishes, include the New World tomato—here low-acid golden tomatoes—with golden saffron added for color and distinct, slightly acrid flavor. In a well-made gazpacho, no one ingredient stands out and the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
Ingredients for Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika—a blender is essential!
Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 8 to 12
INGREDIENTS
1 cup Toasted Garlic Croutons (recipe follows)
3 tablespoons (45 ml) sherry vinegar
1 large pinch saffron threads (optional)
1 quart (1 L) Vegetable Stock (page 14), divided
3 pounds (1.4 kg) ripe golden tomatoes, cored and cut into large chunks
2 yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut into large chunks
3 medium cloves garlic
2 pounds (907 g) cucumbers, peeled and cut into large chunks
1/2 medium red onion, cut into large chunks
1 tablespoon (19 g) kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons (4 g) pimentón dulce (Spanish sweet smoked paprika), substitute paprika
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish
Finely diced red and yellow pepper, tomato, red onion, cucumber, thinly sliced chives, and more Toasted Garlic Croutons, for garnish
1. Soak the croutons in the vinegar mixed with about 1/2 cup (120 ml) water until soft, about 15 minutes.
Soak the saffron, if using, in about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the Vegetable Stock until golden in color, about 15 minutes.
2. Working in several batches, transfer the soaked croutons, yellow tomatoes, peppers, garlic, cucumbers, onion, salt, pimentón, and pepper in the jar of a blender, and pour in the olive oil.
3. Add enough Vegetable Stock to cover the vegetables by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Blend to a smooth purée. Repeat process for the next batch, pouring in more Vegetable Stock to cover.
4. While optional, straining through a food mill fitted with a medium-holed plate will result in a smooth-textured soup.
5. The food mill will remove any seeds and remaining bits of skin. Correct seasoning if necessary. Chill soup thoroughly before serving.
6. Drizzle a trace of olive oil onto each serving.
7. Garnish each serving with a spoonful of combined diced or julienned pepper, tomato, onion, and cucumber along with a spoonful of croutons. Or, pass around small bowls of the garnishes for each guest to garnish their own soup to taste.
8. If desired, sprinkle each portion with thinly sliced chives and saffron just before serving. Store soup covered and refrigerated up to 4 days. (This soup does not freeze successfully.)
Makes about 4 cups (112 g)
* 1 loaf (1 to 1 1/2 pounds, or 455 to 680 g) stale hearty French or Italian bread, crusts removed if desired
* 3/4 cup (175 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
* 3 large cloves garlic, crushed
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Cut bread into 1/2-inch (1 cm) cubes and place in a large bowl. Add the oil and garlic and toss well to combine. Spread the bread cubes out in a single layer on a baking pan. Bake 20 minutes, stirring once, or until the bread cubes are golden brown. Cool to room temperature before storing in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
ROMAN LEGIONS would each carry their essential foods of bread, garlic, salt, olive oil, and vinegar on their lengthy treks along the vast road system of the Empire, each soldier making his own mixture to taste. These foods formed the basis of gazpacho, which was also influenced by the Arabs who brought ingredients such as saffron, almonds, coriander, and pine nuts into the cuisine of the Iberian Peninsula. This green gazpacho is based on those same ingredients: bread, garlic, salt, olive oil, and vinegar—but may include almonds (as here); pine nuts; green melon; green apple; green grapes; herbs such as coriander, mint, and parsley; and salad greens such as lettuce, endive, and spinach.
Makes about 3 quarts (3 L)
INGREDIENTS
2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
3 ounces (about 2 cups, or 85 g) baby spinach
1 pound (455 g) seedless green grapes, picked off their stems
1 green or yellow bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
3 ounces (about 2 cups, or 85 g) crumbled crusty white bread, crusts removed and discarded
1 quart (1 L) water, divided
1/2 pound (225 g) blanched almonds
2 tablespoons (30 ml) Sherry wine vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons (8 g) coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Thinly sliced chives or chopped cilantro, for garnish
2. Place the bread in a bowl and cover with about 1 cup (235 ml) of the water.
3. Let the bread soak until soft and soggy, about 5 minutes. Add the soaked bread and the soaking liquid to the bowl of mixed vegetables and fruit.
4. Add the almonds to the bowl.
5. Add the vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and cilantro to the bowl and toss with your clean and/or gloved hands to combine well.
6. Working in two to three batches, fill the jar of a blender about three-quarters of the way up. (Because the soup isn’t hot, you may fill the blender jar without concern for splattering hot soup.) Pour in enough of the water to cover the mixture.
7. Purée until smooth, adding more of the remaining water if needed to thin the mixture enough so it will blend.
Transfer gazpacho to a large bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Note that cold soups should be seasoned more generously than hot soups as cold dulls the flavor. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours.
8. Ladle the soup into serving bowls and serve chilled.
9. Garnish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of chives or a small sprig of cilantro.
THIS BRILLIANT GREEN SOUP is smooth and silky in texture with a sprightly fresh note of mint. It is quite easy to make using frozen petit pois, or baby peas. Larger full-grown peas will be starchier and heavier. It is not necessary to cook the peas, simply rinse the frozen peas under cold water to remove any frost, which absorbs odors, blend and strain. Here we garnish the soup with blanched (par-cooked) snow peas cut into julienne strips and a tiny dollop of sour cream and serve it in small “shooter” glasses—perfect for a spring or summer brunch, lunch, or buffet. Made with Vegetable Stock, this is a vegetarian soup. Served without the sour cream garnish, it is also vegan.
Makes 1 gallon (4 L), serves 8 to 12
INGREDIENTS
3 quarts (3 L) cold Vegetable Stock (page 14)
1/2 cup (45 g), or about 1 bunch, fresh mint, coarsely chopped
3 pounds (1.4 kg) frozen baby green peas, thawed under cold running water
1/2 cup (30 g), or about 1 bunch, Italian parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
2 bunches scallions, sliced or 1 sweet onion, sliced`
1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (26 g) sugar
About 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt, ground nutmeg, and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound (115 g) snow peas, (see “Preparing Snowpeas,” page 143)
1 cup (230 g) sour cream, crème fraiche, or plain yogurt
1. In a large bowl, mix the Vegetable Stock with the mint leaves, peas, parsley, scallions, oil, and sugar.
2. Using a Microplane or a nutmeg grater, grate the nutmeg into the soup.
3. Using a hand-held or traditional blender, purée the soup until quite smooth. If desired, strain through a sieve or food mill and then transfer back to the bowl. Season to taste with salt, ground nutmeg, and pepper.
Meanwhile, bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Add the snow peas and cook briefly, 1 to 2 minutes, or until bright green. Drain and rinse under cold water to set the color. Cut into julienne (see Appendix, page 146) and reserve for garnish.
4. Serve the soup garnished with sour cream and the snow pea julienne. Store refrigerated up to 4 days or freeze if desired.
Snow peas are quick-cooking and are sweet with a delicate crunch, but they benefit from careful preparation: removing their tough stem ends, the strings along their sides, and even the tiny white string often found on their blossom ends.
1. Grasp a snow pea in your hand with the pointier, harder stem end facing your dominant hand.
2. Pull on the end of the snow pea, breaking it backward.
3. Grasping the snow pea just past the broken edge with your nondominant hand, pull back on the end toward your body.
4. Continue pulling to remove the strings on either side of the snow pea. Pull off the tiny white string on the bottom end of the snow pea.
