INDEX

A

Acquacotta Maremmana, 5, 83–84

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

B

bacon

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

freezing, 51

Italian Chestnut Soup with Fennel and Marsala, 64–65

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 12, 128–129

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Barthe, Louis, 44

Bean/Chickpea Stock, 8

Bean Soups

Ceci e Tria (Pugliese Chickpea and Semolina Noodle Soup), 89–91

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

cooking tips, 88

Greek Lentil Soup (Faki), 4, 96–97

Pasta e Fagioli, 101–102

Turkish Red Lentil Soup (Mercimek Çorbasi), 4, 98–99

beef

Beef Kreplach, 23–27

Rumanian Beet-Vegetable Borscht with Beef Brisket, 119–121

Vietnamese Beef Broth, 111–112

Vietnamese Pho Soup with Beef Brisket, 109–112

Beef Stock

French Onion Soup, 76–77

recipe, 7, 8

Roman Stracciatella (Egg and Cheese Drop Soup), 40–41

Zuppa Pavese, 4, 74–75

Benriner cutters, 5

Billi Bi, 44–46

bisques. See Potages, Purées, and Creamy Bisques.

Bouquet Garni, 49

broths. See Clear Broth-Based Soups; Fish and Seafood Soup/Stews; Roasted Chicken Broth; techniques; Vietnamese Beef Broth.

C

Cacciucco Livornese, 47–49

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Ceci e Tria (Pugliese Chickpea and Semolina Noodle Soup), 89–91

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

cheese

Acquacotta Maremmana, 5, 83–84

French Onion Soup, 76–77

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115–117

Pasta e Fagioli, 101–102

Roman Stracciatella (Egg and Cheese Drop Soup), 40–41

Zuppa Pavese, 4, 74–75

chef’s knives, 5

chicken

Grandma’s Jewish Chicken Soup with Kreplach, 22–27

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115–117

Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup with Rivels, 33–35

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup), 31–32

chicken broth. See Roasted Chicken Broth.

Chicken Stock

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115

Pappa al Pomodoro, 81–83

Pasta e Fagioli, 101

Pennsylvania-Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup with Rivels, 33–35

Portuguese Caldo Verde, 113–114

recipe, 9

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 30

Chickpea Stock. See Bean/Chickpea Stock.

Chilled Soups

Chilled Apricot Soup with Star Anise, 4, 134–135

Chilled Melon, Yogurt, and Ginger Soup, 136–137

Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika, 4, 138–139

Green Gazpacho with Garlic, Grapes, and Almonds, 140–141

China caps, 5

chinois, 5

Chowders

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 12, 128–129

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 12, 124–125

Clear Broth-Based Soups

broth straining technique, 145

Grandma’s Jewish Chicken Soup with Kreplach, 22–27

Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup with Rivels, 33–35

Roasted Chicken Broth, 20–21

Roman Stracciatella (Egg and Cheese Drop Soup), 40–41

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 28–30

South Indian Tomato-Tamarind Rasam, 5, 36–39

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup), 31–32

Vietnamese Beef Broth, 111–112

cooking water, 7

Corncob Stock

Corn Cream Soup with Summer Vegetables, 58–59

Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup with Rivels, 33–35

recipe, 10

Corn Cream Soup with Summer Vegetables, 58–59

court bouillon, 17

cremini mushrooms, 68

Creole Gumbo Z’Herbes, 106–108

Crostini, 49

Crunchy Fried Tortilla Strips, 118

D

dough

Beef Kreplach, 23–27

Rivels, 35

Tria Pasta, 91

duck. See Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu.

E

Egg and Cheese Drop Soup. See Roman Stracciatella.

F

Faki. See Greek Lentil Soup.

Fish and Seafood Soup/Stews

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

Billi Bi, 44–46

Cacciucco Livornese, 47–49

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

fish sauce, 32

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

lobster roe, 151

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 12, 128–129

Provençal Soupe de Poisson with Rouille, 52–54, 55

Rasam Powder, 38

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 124–125

Seafood Broth, 43

Shrimp Stock, 11

fish pliers, 5

Fish Stock

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

Billi Bi, 44–46

recipe, 12

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 12, 124–125

food processors, 5

freezer bags, 5

freezer gel packs, 5

French Onion Soup, 4, 76–77

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

fruit

Bouquet Garni, 49

Chilled Apricot Soup with Star Anise, 4, 134–135

Chilled Melon, Yogurt, and Ginger Soup, 136–137

Green Gazpacho with Garlic, Grapes, and Almonds, 140–141

G

Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika, 4, 138–139

Grandma’s Jewish Chicken Soup with Kreplach, 22–27

Greek Lentil Soup (Faki), 4, 96–97

Green Gazpacho with Garlic, Grapes, and Almonds, 140–141

H

ham. See pork.

Hearty Soups

Creole Gumbo Z’Herbes, 106–108

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115–117

Portuguese Caldo Verde, 113–114

Rumanian Beet-Vegetable Borscht with Beef Brisket, 119–121

Vietnamese Pho Soup with Beef Brisket, 109–112

Hungarian Woodlands Mushroom Soup: Gombaleves, 66–67

I

ice cube trays, 5

Italian Chestnut Soup with Fennel and Marsala, 64–65

J

juicers, 5

K

kitchen string, 5

knives, 5

L

Leeks, William B., Jr., 44

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

M

mandolines, 5

masking tape, 5

measuring cups, 5

Mercimek Çorbasi. See Turkish Red Lentil Soup.

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115–117

microplane zesters, 5

mushrooms

cremini mushrooms, slicing and dicing, 68

Hungarian Woodlands Mushroom Soup: Gombaleves, 66–67

Mushroom Stock, 13

porcini mushrooms, dried, 68

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 30

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup), 31–32

N

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 12, 128–129

nixtamalization, 118

P

packaged soups, 4

Panades

Acquacotta Maremmana, 5, 83–84

French Onion Soup, 4, 76–77

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

Pappa al Pomodoro, 81–83

Zuppa Pavese, 4, 74–75

pancetta

freezing, 51

Italian Chestnut Soup with Fennel and Marsala, 64–65

Pasta e Fagioli, 101–102

Pappa al Pomodoro, 81–83

paring knives, 5

Pasta e Fagioli, 101–102

peelers, 5

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup with Rivels, 33–35

pliers, 5

porcini mushrooms, 68

pork

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

Italian Chestnut Soup with Fennel and Marsala, 64–65

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 12, 128–129

Pasta e Fagioli, 101–102

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Portuguese Caldo Verde, 113–114

Smoked Pork Stock, 11

Portuguese Caldo Verde, 113–114

Potages, Purées, and Creamy Bisques

Corn Cream Soup with Summer Vegetables, 58–59

Hungarian Woodlands Mushroom Soup: Gombaleves, 66–67

Italian Chestnut Soup with Fennel and Marsala, 64–65

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

Senegalese Peanut and Yam Soup with Ginger, 60–61

Tomato Bisque with Basil and Fennel, 62–63

pots, 4, 5

poultry

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

Chicken Stock, 9

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

Grandma’s Jewish Chicken Soup with Kreplach, 22–27

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115–117

Pappa al Pomodoro, 81–83

Pasta e Fagioli, 101

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

Portuguese Caldo Verde, 113–114

Roasted Chicken Broth, 20–21

Roasted Chicken Stock, 7, 9

Roasted Turkey Stock, 7, 9

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 28–30

Smoked Turkey Stock, 11

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup), 31–32

Turkey Stock, 9

Provençal Soupe de Poisson with Rouille, 52–54, 55

Pugliese Chickpea and Semolina Noodle Soup. See Ceci e Tria.

purées. See Potages, Purées, and Creamy Bisques.

R

Rasam Powder, 38

Red Pumpkin Soup. See French Soupe de Potiron.

Rivels, 35

Roasted Chicken Broth

French Soupe de Potiron (Red Pumpkin Soup), 78–80

recipe, 20–21

Roman Stracciatella (Egg and Cheese Drop Soup), 40–41

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 30

Zuppa Pavese, 4, 74–75

Roasted Chicken Stock, 7, 9

Roasted Turkey Stock, 7, 9

Roman Stracciatella (Egg and Cheese Drop Soup), 40–41

Rouille, 54

Rumanian Beet-Vegetable Borscht with Beef Brisket, 119–121

S

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 12, 124–125

seafood. See Fish and Seafood Soup/Stews.

Senegalese Peanut and Yam Soup with Ginger, 60–61

Shrimp Stock

Lobster Bisque with Cognac, 69–71

New England–Style Clam Chowder, 128

recipe, 11

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 124–125

Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup with Duck, Watercress, and Tofu, 28–30

sieves, 5

Smoked Pork Stock, 11

Smoked Turkey Stock

Mexican Sopa de Tortilla with Shredded Chicken, 115

recipe, 11

Soupmaker’s Tips

bacon, freezing, 51

beans, cooking, 88, 92

beef broth, storing, 112

beef scraps, 8

beets, handling, 121

bread slices, flavoring, 77

brisket, 112

chilling soup, 144

chorizo, 114

cinnamon, 38

coconut, grated, 37

corn for Pennsylvania Dutch Chowder, 131

curry leaves, 37

fish for stocks, 12

fish “frames,” 55

fish from Tyrrhenian Sea, 49

fresh herbs, 146, 147

gallinella (Tub Gurnard), 49

greens, variety of, 108

ham hocks, 95

hoisin sauce, 112

kreplach dough, 24

mussels, 46

pasta for Pasta e Fagioli, 102

pumpkin, baking, 80

red lentils, 99

roasted chicken stock, 9

roasted turkey stock, 9

roux, color of, 108

scallop “catch” muscles, 124

scorfano nero (black scorpionfish), 49

seafood broth, 43

Sichuan peppercorns, 29

Sriracha, 112

sour cream, shaping, 135

spider tool, 117

squash, dicing, 58

sumac spice, 99

Thai ingredients, 32

Tyrrhenian Sea fish, 49

Urfa pepper, 99

vegetable stock, 16

water, adding to stock or soup, 121

yams and sweet potatoes, 61

zucchini, dicing, 58

soup pots, 4, 5

South Indian Tomato-Tamarind Rasam, 5, 36–39

spider tool, 5, 117

stocks. See Bean/Chickpea Stock; Beef Stock; Chicken Stock;

Corncob Stock; Fish Stock; mushrooms; Roasted Chicken Stock; Roasted Turkey Stock; Shrimp Stock; Smoked Pork Stock; Smoked Turkey Stock; Soupmaker’s Tips; turkey; Vegetable Stock.

storage containers, 5

sumac, 99

T

Tamarind Purée, 39

techniques

avocados, slicing, 152

basil, cutting, 150

bouquet garni, 149

broth, straining, 145

celery root, preparing, 152

chiffonade technique, 100

chilling soup, 144

chives, cutting, 97

clams, preparing, 129

corn kernels, cutting off cob, 145

dried beans, cooking, 103

herbs, chopping, 147

herbs, picking, 148

leeks, cutting and cleaning, 153

lobster roe, cooking and mashing, 151

oil temperatures, 92

onions, cutting, 151

onions, studding with cloves, 148

saffron threads, soaking, 149

snow peas, julienne slicing, 146

snow peas, preparing, 143

thyme, tying into bundle, 153

tomatoes, dicing, 150

Thai Chicken Coconut Soup. See Tom Kha Gai.

tips. See Soupmaker’s Tips; techniques.

Toasted Garlic Croutons, 139

Tomato Bisque with Basil and Fennel, 62–63

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup), 31–32

tools, 5

Tria Pasta, 91

turkey

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Grandma’s Jewish Chicken Soup with Kreplach, 22–27

Smoked Turkey Stock, 11

Turkey Stock, 9

Turkish Red Lentil Soup (Mercimek Çorbasi), 4, 98–99

U

urfa pepper, 99

V

vegetable cooking water, 7

Vegetable Stock

Alaska Wild Salmon Chowder with Bacon, Leeks, and Dill, 12, 126–127

Billi Bi, 44–46

Caribbean Callalou Soup, 50–51

Charleston Black Bean Purée with Madeira and Lemon, 93–95

Chilled Green Pea and Snow Pea Soup with Mint, 142–143

Corn Cream Soup with Summer Vegetables, 58–59

Creole Gumbo Z’Herbes, 106–108

Golden Tomato Gazpacho with Smoked Paprika, 4, 138–139

Greek Lentil Soup (Faki), 4, 96–97

Pappa al Pomodoro, 81–83

Pasta e Fagioli, 101

Pennsylvania Dutch Bacon, Corn, and Potato Chowder, 130–131

recipe, 14–16

Scallop and White Corn Chowder with Roasted Poblano Chiles, 124–125

Senegalese Peanut and Yam Soup with Ginger, 60–61

Tomato Bisque with Basil and Fennel, 62–63

Turkish Red Lentil Soup (Mercimek Çorbasi), 4, 98–99

Vietnamese Beef Broth, 111–112

Vietnamese Pho Soup with Beef Brisket, 109–112

W

wire spiders, 5, 117

Z

Zuppa Pavese, 4, 74–75