NEXT-LEVEL TECHNIQUE: USING ALTERNATIVE ACIDS

Lemon juice and lime juice are the backbone upon which so many cocktails are built, but the acidity they offer can also be found in other sources. Here we’ll dive into the world of what we call alternative acids. We’ll provide details on these acids shortly, but first we’ll discuss how to use them three different ways: replacement, seasoning, and manipulation.

REPLACEMENT

One way to use alternative acids is to simply omit the lemon or lime juice in a cocktail and replace it with however much acid is required to add an equivalent amount of acidity. Just as we view clarified citrus juice as inherently different from unclarified juice (see this page), we see these acids not as replacements for the flavor of lemon and lime juice, but as opportunities to express cocktails in a different way, similar to how the Clarified Daiquiri (this page) in chapter 3 offers a surprising expression of a familiar form. One thing we like about the alternative acids in this section is how they can be used to create stirred versions of acidic drinks; in other words, cocktails that are typically associated with a shaken and frothy form can instead be expressed as smooth, stirred drinks. Here’s a simple Sidecar experiment you can do to experience the effect yourself. Make the two Sidecar recipes following, then taste them side by side.

Sidecar (Classic)

1½ ounces Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac

1 ounce Cointreau

¾ ounce fresh lemon juice

Shake all the ingredients with ice, then double strain into a chilled coupe. No garnish.

Sidecar (with Citric Acid)

1½ ounces Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac

1 ounce Cointreau

1 teaspoon Citric Acid Solution (this page)

Stir all the ingredients over ice, then strain into a chilled coupe. No garnish.

What do you think? The fact that there’s perceptible acidity but no juicy pulp definitely confounds expectations of a Sidecar, but does replacing the lemon juice with citric acid make a tastier drink? (For the record, we don’t think this stirred version of the Sidecar is a better cocktail.)

SEASONING

Alternative acids can also be used to season cocktails by amplifying the flavors in particular ingredients or the entire cocktail in subtle ways. Just as bartenders make sugar into a syrup for ease of use and consistency in cocktails, we often mix powdered acids into solutions and add them to cocktails by the drop. For example, sparing use of phosphoric acid (most commonly found in soft drinks) adds acidity yet no perceptible flavor, making it a favorite trick for exploring Highball variations. Likewise, just a couple of drops of Citric Acid Solution in a cocktail that contains orange juice can add a tart brightness that lifts the flavor of the juice, as the following experiment demonstrates.

The Blood and Sand is a Sidecar variation that uses ingredients more commonly found in stirred cocktails. Orange juice contributes moderate acidity to complement the sweet vermouth and Cherry Heering. Some versions of this recipe call for equal parts of scotch, vermouth, cherry brandy, and orange juice, but we find that bumping the scotch up a hair and adding a bit of lemon juice yields a cocktail that’s more balanced and less cloying.

Blood and Sand

CLASSIC

1 ounce Famous Grouse scotch

¾ ounce Carpano Antica Formula vermouth

¾ ounce Cherry Heering

1 ounce fresh orange juice

Garnish: 1 brandied cherry

Shake all the ingredients with ice, then double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with the cherry.

Blood and Sand (Ours)

1 ounce Famous Grouse scotch

¾ ounce Carpano Antica Formula vermouth

¾ ounce Cherry Heering

1 ounce fresh orange juice

2 drops Citric Acid Solution (this page)

Garnish: 1 brandied cherry

Shake all the ingredients with ice, then double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with the cherry.

What do you think? Though the second cocktail may not taste more acidic, the brightness of the orange juice is clearer. Overall, we find the second cocktail more harmonious.

MANIPULATION

Finally, acids can be used to manipulate ingredients. As noted in the syrups section in chapter 1 (see this page), we often include a small amount of powdered acid in our syrups to draw out desired flavors, as with the citric acid in our Raspberry Syrup (this page). Acids can also be used to compensate for inconsistent flavor in citrus juices. As discussed in chapter 3, the flavors in citrus juices can vary from season to season, and even from fruit to fruit. Because lemons and limes tend to be fairly consistent, we seldom use alternative acids to adjust their flavor. But when working with fruits that tend to be more variable in acidity, such as oranges, we use citric acid when necessary to brighten the flavor of their juice.

ALTERNATIVE ACIDS AND HOW TO USE THEM

Alternative acids are not only an opportunity to make cocktails without lemon and lime, but also a method for reducing waste. It’s shocking how much waste is produced by juicing citrus, so alternative acids can help us find balance in a refreshing cocktail with a fraction of the ecological impact. Is the flavor different? Absolutely. But progress should taste different, right? One important note: If you choose to work with powdered acids, it’s essential that you have a high-precision gram scale that can accurately measure down to 0.01 gram.

HANDLING ACIDS SAFELY

Working with powdered and liquid acids is perfectly safe if you take the proper precautions. Just remember that in high concentrations, acids will degrade materials—and maybe your skin. Always wear gloves when handling them, and store all forms of acid in glass containers.

PHOSPHORIC ACID

What it is: Coca-Cola as we know it wouldn’t be possible without phosphoric acid. It’s responsible for most of the acidity in commercial sodas—that refreshing quality that makes us come back for more. It’s an odorless and flavorless liquid on its own, so it doesn’t contribute flavor, as many other acids do; instead, it adds a tongue-tingly tartness.

How to prepare it: While it’s possible to track down bulk phosphoric acid, it’s no easy task. Plus, it’s usually very concentrated and must be diluted. If you choose to go that route, please research safe methods for doing so. Don’t want the headache? A ready-to-use product by the name of Extinct Acid Phosphate, produced by Darcy O’Neil, can be purchased online at Art of Drink (see Resources, this page).

How to use it: Even diluted, phosphoric acid must be used in small quantities. You can add it to cocktails in two ways: using a couple of drops to enhance the acidity of other ingredients or as the solo acidic backbone. For the latter, we suggest experimenting with amounts between ½ teaspoon and 1 teaspoon. We advise against using more than 1 teaspoon; otherwise, it will add a metallic flavor.

CITRIC ACID

What it is: The primary acid in lemons and limes is citric acid, making this one of the most familiar of the acid alternatives. It’s tart and lemony and unmistakable when tasted on its own.

How to prepare it: Citric acid powder can be used as is when preparing syrups, but for cocktails it’s best to dissolve it in water. We make it into a solution for adding directly to cocktails. Using a gram scale to measure the ingredients, combine 100 grams filtered water with 25 grams citric acid powder and stir until dissolved. Store in a glass dropper bottle or other glass container at room temperature—no need to refrigerate.

How to use it: Though citric acid doesn’t precisely emulate the flavor of lemon and lime juice, a few drops of citric acid solution can act as a close equivalent to lemon or lime juice in cocktails. A teaspoon of citric acid solution has roughly the same amount of acidity as the amount of lemon or lime juice (approximately ¾ ounce) used in a Sidecar or Daiquiri-style cocktail; simply swapping it in for fresh juice is an instructive experiment, but not terribly interesting. Instead of relying on citric acid to replace lemon or lime juice, we generally add a few drops of it to cocktails that are a little flabby and in need of more oomph, as in the Blood and Sand (this page). We also use it to boost the acidity of syrups to be incorporated into carbonated cocktails.

LACTIC ACID

What it is: This is a versatile ingredient that can be used to impart a creamy texture to cocktails without adding the density of dairy or nut milks.

How to prepare it: Like citric acid and malic acid (following), lactic acid powder can be used as is when preparing syrups. It’s about as strong as malic acid, so we use a 9-to-1 ratio of water to acid. Using a gram scale to measure the ingredients, combine 90 grams filtered water with 10 grams lactic acid powder and stir until dissolved. Store in a glass container at room temperature—no need to refrigerate.

How to use it: We love using lactic acid to give syrups a rounder texture, as in our Vanilla Lactic Syrup (this page) and Strawberry Cream Syrup (this page).

MALIC ACID

What it is: If you’ve ever bitten into a green apple, you’ve tasted malic acid—it’s bright and exceptionally tart.

How to prepare it: In powdered form, malic acid can add a bright flavor to syrups. For cocktails, we use it as we do citric acid: in a solution. However, because it’s more potent than citric acid, we make a weaker solution. Using a gram scale to measure the ingredients, combine 100 grams filtered water with 10 grams malic acid powder, and stir until dissolved. Store in a glass container at room temperature—no need to refrigerate.

How to use it: Our House Grenadine recipe (this page) calls for a fair amount of malic acid in combination with citric acid to bolster the astringency of the pomegranate juice. In cocktails, malic acid solution adds a tart bite that can accent flavors already present in the cocktail. For the Apple Pop (this page), we make a nonalcoholic carbonated soda from clarified apple and celery juices, to which we add malic acid to restore the fresh apple flavor lost when the apple juice is clarified.

TARTARIC ACID

What it is: Tartaric acid is a naturally occurring acid that’s found in apricots, bananas, apples, and, perhaps most noticeably, grapes, where it largely determines the acidity of the wine made from that fruit. We use it in cocktails for the drying effect it has on drinks.

How to prepare it: We rarely use tartaric acid on its own. Should you want to try it in cocktails, make a 10-to-1 solution (this page) for malic acid.

How to use it: Our preferred method of using tartaric acid is to mix it with lactic acid to create what we call “Champagne acid,” which mimics the yeasty richness of Champagne and has a tannic bite. To make Champagne Acid Solution, mix 3 grams each of tartaric acid and lactic acid with 94 grams of filtered water and stir until dissolved. It’s an important ingredient in the cocktail Celebrate (this page), where it enhances the tang of a dry Champagne.

ASCORBIC ACID

What it is: Also known as vitamin C, ascorbic acid has few flavor-amplifying applications. However, because it’s an antioxidant, it’s perfect for preserving fragile ingredients that are damaged by contact with oxygen.

How to prepare it: We only use ascorbic acid as is, in a powder form, to stave off oxidation in juices, syrups, and even infusions.

How to use it: Ingredients like fresh apple juice can oxidize and turn brown very quickly—a process that can be slowed or prevented by adding a bit of ascorbic acid. Likewise, rinsing fragile garnishes, such as apple or pear slices, in a solution of water and ascorbic acid can prevent them from browning. A general rule of thumb is that for every quart of liquid (be it a juice or water for preserving garnishes), add 1 teaspoon of ascorbic acid, stirring or whisking until it’s completely dissolved.