Continued, Jerky

This is an old-school, lo-fi jerky called charqui or carne de sol, depending on your locale. The depth of flavors yielded by simply baking salted beef in the hot sun are reminiscent of a superb dry-aged steak. This jerky staple is great to eat on its own or can be used as an ingredient for cooking, as in Feijoada (this page), the popular Brazilian meat and bean stew.

For the uninitiated, sun-drying requires a leap of faith. Just bear in mind that you will need to be a little flexible with the timing since how long the meat takes to dry is weather-dependent. We highly recommend the use of a mesh drying basket (see this page), which allows for maximum airflow during the sun-drying process while keeping the meat safely out of the reach of pests.

2 pounds (910 g) well-trimmed beef brisket or bottom round, sliced against the grain as thinly as possible

1½ tablespoons fine sea salt

Warm, sunny, dry weather

Massage the salt into the beef slices. Lay the slices directly onto the screens or mesh shelves of a drying basket, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Hang the basket outdoors in a well-ventilated, warm, sunny location for 24 hours.

After 24 hours, check the dryness of the jerky (see this page). If the slices are dried to your liking, remove them from the basket. If you prefer drier jerky, continue drying, checking every 4 to 8 hours, for up to 24 more hours.

Transfer the jerky to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.

Carne seca, Spanish for “dried meat,” is a specialty of the borderlands of northern Mexico and the southwestern United States. Simply seasoned with lime and mild dried Anaheim chile, this jerky is a great everyday snack as well as an essential component for Machaca (this page) a Sonoran specialty. You can make carne seca in a dehydrator or oven, but we prefer the intoxicating perfume of wood smoke obtained by drying the beef with hot smoke or over the embers of a low fire.

1 dried Anaheim or New Mexico chile

1½ tablespoons fine sea salt

2 pounds (910 g) well-trimmed beef brisket, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick against the grain

1 lime, halved

Toast the chile in a dry skillet over medium heat for about 30 seconds per side. Allow to cool to room temperature. Stem and seed the chile, then break the pod into pieces. Using a spice grinder, pulverize the chile to a fine powder. In a small bowl, combine the chile powder and salt.

Place the sliced beef in a shallow bowl or container and season with the chile-salt mixture. Squeeze the lime over the meat. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the beef, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the slices on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into your dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2½ hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Alternatively, you can use a smoker. Arrange the slices on the racks, making sure that no slices are overlapping. You want to keep the temperature in the smoker between 140°F and 160°F (60°C and 65°C). Insert the racks into the smoker, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dry the meat for about 2½ hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.

Beef and Worcestershire sauce are a classic pairing, and this simple yet tantalizing jerky illustrates why. Much like soy sauce or fish sauce, Worcestershire accentuates beef’s depth of flavor, but it also provides a pungent, peppery, vinegary kick that keeps your mouth watering for another piece. We highly encourage you to make your own Worcestershire sauce, as it makes all the difference in this recipe.

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed beef bottom round, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick against the grain

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

¼ cup (60 ml) Worcestershire Sauce (this page)

2 teaspoons black peppercorns, coarsely ground

Place the sliced beef in a shallow bowl or container and sprinkle with the salt. Toss the slices, then add the Worcestershire sauce. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the beef, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the slices on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Sprinkle a little of the pepper onto each slice. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2½ hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.

Worcestershire sauce, named for Worcester, England, its original place of manufacture, is a curiously complex blend of ingredients that, simmered together, creates a unique, umami-rich sauce that is more than the sum of its parts. Store-bought Worcestershire sauce, which tends to be loaded with sweeteners and preservatives, can’t compete in flavor with this homemade version. It’s a splendid seasoning for jerky and a great marinade for grilled meats, and a dash in your glass will enliven your next Bloody Mary.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 yellow onion, sliced

1 jalapeño chile, sliced into rounds

2 cloves garlic, crushed

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed

3 whole cloves

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ lemon, skin and pith removed

¾ cup (250 g) molasses

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

¾ cup (180 ml) white wine vinegar

¾ cup (180 ml) water

¼ cup (50 g) freshly grated horseradish root

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until caramelized, about 15 minutes. Add the peppercorns, anchovies, cloves, salt, lemon, molasses, sugar, vinegar, water, and horseradish to the pan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently, stirring from time to time, until the mixture is reduced by about one-third, about 1½ hours. Strain the liquid into a clean glass jar.

Moo dat diow is a Thai specialty, often served as an appetizer or sold as a snack by street-food vendors. The little strips of pork are tossed in a simple, garlicky marinade, then hung to dry in the hot Thai sun. Traditionally, the lightly dried meat is then deep-fried or grilled, but in a rare break with tradition, we’ve found that we prefer these tasty pork morsels when dried in the dehydrator and eaten as is.

This recipe uses not the leaves of the cilantro plant but rather the thin, white roots, which have a more delicate, subtle flavor than the leaves and don’t discolor when dried. Look for bunches of cilantro with the roots still attached in Asian grocery stores. Be sure to wash the roots well to remove any dirt that may still be clinging to them. If cilantro roots are unavailable, you can substitute the stems.

4 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup (17 g) chopped fresh cilantro roots and/or stems

3 tablespoons fish sauce

¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce

2 teaspoons white peppercorns, lightly toasted and finely ground

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed pork sirloin or loin, cut into strips ½ inch (12 mm) in diameter and 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12 cm) long

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic and salt to make a paste. Add the cilantro root and/or stems and continue to pound to a coarse paste.

In a shallow bowl or container, combine the garlic-cilantro paste, the fish sauce, soy sauce, white pepper, and sugar. Add the pork strips and, using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the strips. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day or up to 2 days.

When you are ready to dry the pork, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the strips on the racks of your dehydrator, keeping them straight and making sure that no strips are overlapping or touching. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2 hours, until the strips are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 weeks.

Good, grass-fed bison is naturally lean and high in protein and an excellent choice for anyone seeking a healthier meat option. But you don’t have to be on a health kick to appreciate the bright herbal flavors of this jerky. Juniper, bay, and sage are natural complements to sweet, grassy-tasting bison meat.

In addition to being lean, the muscle fibers of bison can be quite dense. Be sure to cut the bison in thin, even slices against the grain and take care not to overdry the meat.

1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 bay leaf, crumbled

1 juniper berry

1 tablespoon dried sage

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed bison top round, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick against the grain

2 teaspoons brown sugar

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the salt to form a paste. Combine the bay leaf, juniper berry, sage, and peppercorns in a spice grinder and pulverize until finely ground.

Place the sliced bison in a shallow bowl or container. Massage the garlic paste into the meat, then season with the ground spices and the brown sugar. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the bison, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the slices on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2 hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.

True teriyaki sauce is quite unlike the gloppy bottled versions that line supermarket shelves. Teri is the Japanese word for “luster” and yaki means “grilled.” Fresh off the grill (or out of the dehydrator), this lustrous pork jerky, with its bright, vibrant flavors, will blow away any sticky-sweet notions you may have about teriyaki. We tend to prefer pork for this jerky, but you can substitute beef or bison.

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) soy sauce

4 tablespoons (85 g) honey

2 tablespoons mirin

6 tablespoons (90 ml) sake

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed pork sirloin, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick against the grain

In a small bowl, whisk together the salt, ¼ cup (60 ml) of the soy sauce, 2 tablespoons of the honey, the mirin, and 2 tablespoons of the sake. Stir in the white pepper, garlic, and ginger.

Place the sliced pork in a shallow bowl or container, then pour the soy sauce mixture over the meat. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the meat, remove the pork from the refrigerator. To make a glaze, in a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce, the remaining 2 tablespoons honey, and the remaining 4 tablespoons (60 ml) sake.

Place the slices on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Using a pastry brush, baste the top of each slice with the glaze. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2 hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Alternatively, you can use a smoker or grill. Place the slices on the racks, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Using a pastry brush, baste the top of each slice with the glaze. Place the racks into the smoker or grill. You want to keep the temperature in the smoker or grill between 140˚F and 160˚F (60˚C and 65˚C). Dry the jerky for 1½ to 2 hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the pieces frequently to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 3 weeks.

This is our standard fare and the meaty staple we’ve produced daily at The Fatted Calf Charcuterie for the last fifteen years. In our shop, this jerky is nearly always being trimmed, thinly sliced, marinated in its boozy slurry, or being prepared for cold smoking and drying. But the best part of the day, even after all these years, is when the timer signals the end of the last drying cycle, and the finished jerky, with its alluring scent, emerges from the dehydrator, warm and delicious. It’s hard to resist!

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup (60 ml) bourbon

2 tablespoons blackstrap molasses

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed beef bottom round, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick against the grain

In a small bowl, whisk together the salt and bourbon until the salt is completely dissolved, then stir in the molasses and pepper and mix well.

Place the sliced beef in a shallow bowl or container. Pour the bourbon mixture over the meat. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to smoke the beef, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Fit a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack and place the beef slices on the rack. You can shingle the meat so the slices overlap, but make sure it is no more than 2 slices deep so all of the meat is exposed to the smoke. Place the baking sheet in the smoker and cold smoke for 1 hour (see this page). Alternatively, if you prefer your jerky without the smoky flavor or if you do not have access to a smoker, you can skip this step and proceed to the next.

Set the temperature of the dehydrator to 145˚F (63˚C). Place the slices of beef on the dehydrator racks, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2½ hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 5 weeks.

This capricious pork jerky is seasoned with a blend of pastoral herbs, with the lavender adding a certain je ne sais quoi. It begs to be enjoyed in the great outdoors, perhaps accompanied by a bottle of luscious rosé, and will become an instant favorite for your picnic basket.

This jerky, in particular, benefits from at least one full day of marinating to allow the herbs to permeate the pork. We prefer to dry this jerky in the dehydrator without the addition of smoke, to allow the bright, clean flavors to shine.

2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon white peppercorns

1 fresh or dried lavender bud

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed pork sirloin, cut into strips ½ inch (12 mm) in diameter

½ bay leaf

A few sprigs each of fresh rosemary, oregano, and thyme

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with 1 teaspoon of the salt to form a paste. Using a spice grinder, grind together the black and white peppercorns. Lightly bruise the lavender bud.

Place the pork strips in a shallow bowl or container. Massage the garlic paste into the meat, then season with the ground pepper. Add the lavender, bay leaf, and herb sprigs. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day or up to 2 days.

When you are ready to dry the pork, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the strips on the racks of your dehydrator, keeping them straight and making sure that no strips are overlapping or touching. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2½ hours, until the strips are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 4 weeks.

In Korea, beef jerky, known as yukpo, is typically given as a ceremonial wedding gift. The happy marriage of pear juice, soy, honey, and gochugaru (Korean chile flakes) give this beef jerky a perfect salty, tangy, sweet, and mildly spicy balance. For the special occasion, we’ve dressed this jerky with a gorgeous veil of crunchy sesame seeds, making it as beautiful to behold as it is fun to eat.

½ cup (120 ml) pear or apple juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons honey

3 tablespoons gochugaru

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed beef bottom round, sliced ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm) thick across the grain

½ cup (80 g) sesame seeds, toasted

In a large bowl, whisk together the pear juice, soy sauce, honey, gochugaru, and salt. Place the sliced beef in the bowl with the marinade. Using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the slices. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the beef, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Spread the sesame seeds out on a plate. Dredge one side of each meat slice in the sesame seeds to coat, then place the slices, seed-side up, onto the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no slices are overlapping. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2 hours, until the slices are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the jerky to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 4 weeks.

SOME LIKE IT HOT

Eating freshly dried jerky straight from the smoker or out of the dehydrator is a special treat. Warm jerky has that melt-in-your-mouth quality that’s hard to beat. When the jerky cools, the texture often becomes more rigid, and as the jerky ages, it can become more brittle and the flavors more muted. But you can perk up your jerky by quickly reheating it. Just place a few slices of jerky on a baking sheet and put it in a 325˚F (165˚C) oven for about 10 minutes to heat through.

This dried meat specialty hails from the neighboring Italian regions of Lazio and Umbria. Coppiette, or “little couples,” are so named because the long strips of meat were customarily hung to dry in pairs. Although traditionally made from the sinewy hind quarters of “retired” farm animals such as donkeys and goats, the coppiette you typically find in salumerie today are made mainly with pork. We were happily surprised to come across this herbaceous wild boar version of coppiette on a recent trip to Rome. Enjoy as part of an antipasto course with a glass of earthy red wine.

3 cloves garlic, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt

1 bay leaf

1 juniper berry

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed wild boar or pork sirloin, cut into strips ½ inch (12 mm) in diameter

1 sprig fresh rosemary

⅓ cup (75 ml) red wine

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the salt to form a paste. Combine the bay leaf, juniper berry, and peppercorns in a spice grinder and pulverize until finely ground.

Place the boar strips in a shallow bowl or container. Massage the garlic paste into the meat, then season with the ground spices. Add the rosemary sprig and, using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the strips. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the boar, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Place the strips on the racks of your dehydrator, keeping them straight and making sure that no strips are overlapping or touching. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for about 2 hours, until the strips are firm but still pliable, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the coppiette to cool at room temperature. Transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.