Continued, Jerky

We are lucky to have a good number of friends who are avid mushroom hunters and who provide us access to plenty of freshly foraged wild mushrooms. But we find dried wild mushrooms, which are readily available, to be nearly as good for many dishes, including this ground pork and porcini specialty. If you love mushrooms as much as you love jerky, this recipe is for you. Pack a few pieces for your next walk in the woods or enjoy as a nibble with a glass of robust red wine.

½ ounce (15 g) dried porcini or other dried wild mushrooms

2 large shallots, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

¾ cup (180 ml) red wine

2 pounds (910 g) finely ground lean pork

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Put the mushrooms in a bowl, add cold water to cover them by about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and let rehydrate at room temperature for at least 3 hours or up to overnight. Using your hands or a slotted spoon, gently remove the mushrooms from their soaking liquid, leaving any grit in the bottom of the bowl. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside. Pat the mushrooms dry and chop finely.

In a small sauté pan over low heat, cook the shallots in the olive oil, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for an additional 5 minutes. Pour in the strained mushroom liquid and the wine. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until you have roughly 1 cup (240 ml). Turn off the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Preheat your oven to 250˚F (120˚C). Line two 13 by 18-inch (33 by 46-cm) rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Turn the ground pork out onto a large cutting board. Using a cleaver or chef’s knife, chop the pork to loosen it up. Sprinkle the salt, pepper, and thyme over the pork, then chop it again. Scrape the pork off the board and into a mixing bowl. Add the mushroom mixture and mix thoroughly.

Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared baking sheets. Cover each pan loosely with plastic wrap and gently pat the mixture with your hands through the plastic wrap to spread it over the parchment. Using a small rolling pin, roll the mixture to an even thickness, roughly ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 to 6 mm). Remove and discard the plastic.

Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 1 hour, rotating the pans front to back halfway through. Remove the pans from the oven and slide the parchment with the pork off the pans and onto wire racks to cool for a few minutes. As soon as the meat is cool enough to handle, flip it over on the parchment in one piece. Slide the parchment back with the pork onto the baking sheets and return to the oven to bake for an additional 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature on the baking sheets.

When the meat has cooled to room temperature, slide the parchment with the pork onto a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife or a pizza cutter, cut the meat into 2-inch (5-cm) squares.

Layer the squares in a covered container that allows a bit of airflow, separating the layers with parchment paper to keep the pieces from sticking together. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 weeks.

Bakkwa, also known as rougan, is a dried-meat specialty that originated in China but whose popularity has spread to Singapore, Malaysia, and other parts of Asia, where it is an immensely popular gift for the Lunar New Year celebration. There is a variety of bakkwa preparations, but we have grown quite fond of this chewy, savory-sweet ground pork version, glazed with honey and topped with sesame seeds.

Nearly as simple to prepare as any basic jerky, bakkwa is easily dried in a low oven. It may take a little practice to flatten the meat to an even thickness, but we find pieces that wind up a little too thick or too thin seem to disappear as quickly as the rest. Bakkwa, cut into squares, makes an attractive hors d’oeuvre. In addition to luck and prosperity in the New Year, you may find it also brings you the joy of new friends when served at your next cocktail party.

2 pounds (910 g) finely ground lean pork

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons five-spice powder

¼ cup (60 ml) soy sauce

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

6 tablespoons (125 g) honey

¼ cup (40 g) sesame seeds, lightly toasted

Preheat your oven to 250˚F (120˚C). Line two 13 by 18-inch (33 by 46-cm) rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Turn the ground pork out onto a large cutting board. Using a cleaver or chef’s knife, chop the pork to loosen it up. Sprinkle the pork with the salt, then chop it again. Scrape the seasoned pork off the board and into a mixing bowl. Add the five-spice powder, soy sauce, fish sauce, wine, and sesame oil and mix thoroughly.

In a small saucepan, warm the honey over low heat until it pours easily. Using a pastry brush, brush the surface of the pork with the honey. Sprinkle the sesame seeds evenly over the pork.

Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 1 hour, rotating the pans front to back halfway through. Remove the pans from the oven and slide the parchment with the pork off the pans and onto wire racks to cool for a few minutes. As soon as the meat is cool enough to handle, flip it over on the parchment in one piece. Slide the parchment with the pork back onto the baking sheets and return to the oven to bake for an additional 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature on the baking sheets.

Slide the parchment with the pork onto a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife or a pizza cutter, cut the meat into 2-inch (5-cm) squares.

Layer any bakkwa that isn’t immediately devoured in a covered container that allows a bit of airflow, separating the layers with parchment paper to keep the pieces from sticking together. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 weeks.

YEAR OF THE PIG SANDWICH

Irresistible bakkwa never lasts long at our house, perhaps because for us it is an unusual treat. But apparently it is such a commonly exchanged Lunar New Year’s gift that folks often wind up with more than they know what to do with. This phenomenon has sparked a series of articles on the Internet on what to do with your glut of CNY (short for Chinese New Year) jerky. People creatively repurpose this gift into inventive dishes, from fried rice to banh mi–style sandwiches (pictured at right).

This quirky jerky was inspired by a pot of Filipino-style duck adobo stew made over a campfire by our good friend chef Douglas Monsalud. We loved the tanginess of the vinegar with the rich, earthy flavor of the gizzards and wondered if we could translate those flavors into jerky. After a little trial and error, we struck upon this combination, dusted with black pepper, that keeps you reaching for another piece. We like to serve it as part of a mix of dried-meat specialties, along with some spicy roasted nuts and cold, crisp beer.

12 ounces (340 g) duck gizzards

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) soy sauce

¼ cup (60 ml) water

¼ cup (60 ml) plantain or apple cider vinegar

5 cloves garlic, crushed

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, plus 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 dried árbol or cayenne chile

Using a sharp paring knife, trim the gizzards of fat and silverskin (the thin, pearlescent membrane that covers the meat).

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the gizzards, salt, soy sauce, water, vinegar, garlic, bay, the 1 teaspoon peppercorns, and the chile. Bring to a simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, then partially cover and cook, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a simmer, until the gizzards are tender but not falling apart, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and allow the gizzards to cool to room temperature in the liquid. Transfer the gizzards and liquid to a container, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Drain the gizzards and discard the cooking liquid. Slice the gizzards into coins ¼ inch (6 mm) thick, then toss with the 2 teaspoons ground pepper.

Lay the gizzard slices on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure no slices are overlapping. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for 1 hour, until the slices are firm but still chewy, rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Porchetta, the beloved Italian pork roast laden with garlic and herbs, is always a huge hit for dinner parties and special occasions. But its outer coating of crispy pork skin, known as cotiche croccanti in Italian, always seems to disappear from the serving platter faster than the meat. In a give-the-people-what-they-want move, we’ve devised this way of preparing just the pork skin alla porchetta. Serve the warm cracklins alongside an aperitivo or as part of an antipasto, or try crumbling them slightly and using to top cannellini beans or a simple green salad.

If you purchase whole skin-on pork legs to make jerky, you can save the leftover skin to make this recipe. Pork skin can also be purchased from most butcher shops. As it cooks in the oven, the skin gives off a fair amount of fat. Be sure to strain and refrigerate this fat to use for sautéing and frying.

1 pound (450 g) pork skin with roughly ¼ inch (6 mm) of fat

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons fennel seed, toasted and ground

1 teaspoon finely ground black pepper

1 teaspoon flaky or coarse sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)

Grated zest of 2 lemons

Using a pair of sharp kitchen shears, cut the pork skin into strips 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Fit a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the pork skin and boil for 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the strips to the prepared wire rack, evenly spacing the pieces and making sure they are not overlapping. Refrigerate uncovered until dry, at least 4 hours or up to overnight.

Remove the pork skin from the refrigerator and place in a roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven and cook for about 1 hour, until the pork skin is golden brown. Reduce the oven temperature to 325˚F (165˚C) and cook until the skin is very crisp, about 45 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic with the fine salt to form a paste.

Remove the pan from the oven and add the garlic paste. Using a wooden spoon, stir until the pork skin is evenly coated. Return the pan to the oven and cook for 5 minutes longer.

Using tongs, carefully transfer the hot pork skin to a large bowl. Immediately add the rosemary, fennel seed, pepper, flaky or coarse salt, and lemon zest. Toss to coat.

These strips are best served hot and eaten right away, but they can be stored for up to 1 week. Allow to cool to room temperature, then transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place. If you wish to reheat them for serving, arrange on a baking sheet and place in a 325˚F (165˚C) oven for about 10 minutes.

Many years ago, our good friend and stellar cook Isla Ruffo returned from a visit to her hometown in Sonora, Mexico, with a gift for us. It was a greasy plastic bag filled with what looked like wads of brown dog hair. “It’s machaca, a traditional meat specialty,” she said. I’m somewhat ashamed to say, but I think the bag was shoved into the back of a cabinet where it sat for several months. Then one stormy day, when there was little else in the house to cook, I finally considered what to do with it. Hunger is a great motivator, and within minutes, I was stuffing the rehydrated machaca into little burritos. The next day, we ate what was left with scrambled eggs. And just like that, we fell for machaca, big time. But machaca is not readily available stateside, so we set about making our own.

Machaca is derived from the Spanish word machacar, meaning “to pound” or “to crush”. We won’t lie; it takes quite a bit of pounding to turn leathery dried meat into the angelic fluffiness of machaca. A food processor is, unfortunately, no substitute for the old-school methods of whacking the beef repeatedly with a coarse stone or pulverizing it in a large molcajete (mortar) with a pestle. That’s because the blade of the processor tears the beef into tiny pieces instead of leaving the muscle fibers intact.

Meat + Salt + Sun made with brisket or Carne Seca works best for this preparation. Relatively speaking, the brisket shreds easily and breaks apart quickly (but still, not that quickly) when pounded. Try it in Machacado con Huevos (this page).

6 ounces (170 g) Meat + Salt + Sun (this page) or Carne Seca (this page)

Time and tenacity

Using your hands, break the dried beef into rough bite-size pieces. Place a small handful of the pieces in a molcajete or other large stone mortar; do not overfill the molcajete, as too much can slow the process. Pound the pieces with the pestle until they break apart into individual threads. You may want to use your hands to shred the pieces further. Remove the machaca from the molcajete and repeat with the remaining pieces of meat.

Use right away, or transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow, preferably with a desiccant packet (see this page), and store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 weeks. Alternatively, place the machaca in a zipper-lock bag, seal well, and freeze for up to 3 months.

This unique Chinese dried-meat specialty, sometimes called “pork floss” or rousong, is used to fill buns and sticky rice rolls, top tofu, and as a condiment for congee. Although you can find it sold by the tubful at some Asian grocery stores, these commercial versions tend to contain frightening amounts of preservatives, so we’ve tried our hand at making a homemade version with tasty results.

In this recipe, the meat is first braised to make it easier to shred finely, and then, unlike most other dried meats, it is dehydrated on the stove top in a wok or pan. The finished fluffy pork is a melt-in-your-mouth topping for Rice Porridge (this page).

2 pounds (910 g) pork sirloin, cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) cubes

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 cups (480 ml) chicken broth

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine or sherry

4 green onions, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths

1-inch (2.5-cm) piece peeled fresh ginger

2 whole star anise

1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seed

Season the pork with the salt. Place the meat in a saucepan and add the chicken broth, soy sauce, dark soy sauce, honey, wine, green onions, ginger, and spices. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer gently until the pork is fork-tender, 1½ to 2 hours. Remove from the heat and allow the meat to cool to room temperature in its liquid.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a gallon-size (3.8-L) plastic bag, leaving the braising liquid in the pan. Set the pan over low heat and simmer the liquid until reduced to roughly ¼ to ⅓ cup (60 to 75 ml). It should be thick and syrupy.

Lay the bag with the pork flat on a countertop. Using a rolling pin or a rubber mallet, pound the meat until it falls apart. Empty the pork into a bowl and further shred the meat by hand until it separates into individual strands or fibers. Pour the reduced braising liquid over the meat and mix by hand to coat evenly.

Heat a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet or well-seasoned wok over low heat. Transfer the meat to the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until dry, somewhat fluffy, and a shade or two darker in color, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature in the pan.

Use right away, or transfer to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow, making sure not to pack the pork too tightly, and store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 week. Alternatively, place the pork in a zipper-lock bag, seal well, and freeze for up to 3 months.

Biltong is a dried game-meat specialty that originates in South Africa. Like many indigenous populations, the people of southern Africa preserved their meat by salting it and leaving it to air- or sun-dry. With the arrival of Dutch settlers in the late seventeenth century, the idea of brining or marinating meat in vinegar, sugar, and spices took hold. The acidity of vinegar and the antimicrobial properties of spices helped further preserve the meat in a climate where spoilage was a vexing problem.

To make traditional biltong, you will need access to wild game, such as antelope, deer, or elk. Today, however, most biltong is made with beef; you can certainly use beef bottom round in this recipe.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon coriander seed, toasted and lightly crushed

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed lean antelope, venison, or elk, cut into strips 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) in diameter and 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) long

In a wide, shallow bowl, mix together the salt, sugar, coriander, pepper, and vinegar. Add the strips of meat and, using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the strips. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

When you are ready to dry the meat, remove it from the refrigerator. Remove the strips from the marinade, letting the excess liquid drain off. Some of the coriander and black pepper should adhere to the meat. Place the strips on the racks of your dehydrator, making sure that no strips are overlapping or touching. Set the temperature to 145˚F (63˚C). Insert the racks into the dehydrator, leaving as much space as possible between them. Dehydrate for 3 to 4 hours, until the biltong is very firm, flipping the strips and rotating the racks front to back halfway through to ensure even drying.

Allow the biltong to cool at room temperature. To serve, cut the strips crosswise into thin slices; cut only as much as you plan to eat. Transfer any uncut biltong to a covered container that allows a bit of airflow and store in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks.

Tasajo is a traditional air-dried meat from western Spain’s Extremadura region. It is typically made using strips of lean goat, beef, wild boar, or, as in this version, venison. Another specialty of the Extremadura region is pimentón de la Vera, the gorgeous red paprika made by grinding smoked and dried chiles from the La Vera valley. Unsurprisingly, pimentón is the predominant spice in this tasajo. In addition to imparting a wonderful smoky flavor, the paprika has antimicrobial properties and acts as a natural preservative. Tasajo is perfect served along with a sharp cheese and a bowl of olives at the start of a meal.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons dried oregano, crumbled

2 pounds (910 g) trimmed lean venison leg, cut into strips 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) in diameter and 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) long

2 tablespoons dry sherry

¼ cup (35 g) sweet (dulce) pimentón de la Vera

In a large, shallow bowl, combine the salt and oregano. Add the strips of meat, rolling them around in the seasonings to coat evenly. Add the sherry and, using your hands, mix well to evenly coat the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Place the pimentón in a baking dish. Remove the meat from the refrigerator and dredge each strip in the pimentón to evenly coat.

Cut 12-inch (30-cm) lengths of butcher’s twine; you will need as many pieces as you have meat strips. Using a trussing needle or sharp metal skewer, pierce a hole in each strip about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from one end. Thread a length of butcher’s twine through the hole, then tie the two ends together to form a loop.

Hang the meat strips by their twine loops in a cool, dark, ventilated location, preferably one with a stable temperature of 50˚F to 60˚F (10˚C to 16˚C); in the late autumn through the early spring, we’ve used our garage with excellent results. Allow to air-dry until the tasajo is firm but not too hard (roughly the texture of a salami), about 10 days. If the temperature is a little cooler, drying may take up to 2 weeks; if the temperature is slightly warmer, it may take only 1 week.

To serve, cut the strips crosswise into thin slices; cut only as much as you plan to eat. Wrap any uncut tasajo in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

These spiced duck breasts were one of the first whole-muscle dry-curing projects we tried, and we’ve been loving them ever since. Over the years, we’ve slightly adjusted the seasonings, but the process has remained more or less the same.

Duck breasts are perfectly sized for air-drying at home and a good cut to start with for anyone new to curing meat. They are relatively small and flat, which means they dry quickly and evenly. From start to finish, the process takes just a little over 2 weeks. For your minimal effort and small investment of time, you will be richly rewarded. Thinly sliced, the flavorful meat, with its layer of buttery fat, is a wonderful addition to a charcuterie board, salads, hors d’oeuvres, and sandwiches.

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seed

3 allspice berries

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed

1 teaspoon juniper berries

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon curing salt #2

½ teaspoon dried oregano

2 skin-on duck breasts, each about 12 ounces (340 g), with the tenders removed

2 cloves garlic, crushed

¼ cup (60 ml) red wine

In a skillet over low heat, toast the peppercorns, coriander, allspice, mustard, and juniper until fragrant. Allow to cool to room temperature. Using a spice grinder, pulverize the spices to a fine powder. In a large, shallow bowl, combine the ground spices with the sea salt, curing salt, and oregano.

Add the duck breasts to the spice mixture, turning them to evenly coat. Add the garlic and red wine. Cover and refrigerate for 3 days, turning the breasts each day to ensure even seasoning.

Remove the duck breasts from the refrigerator. Wrap each breast in a double layer of cheesecloth. Tie each end tightly with butcher’s twine, leaving a loop at one end for hanging.

Hang the duck breasts in a cool, dark, ventilated location, preferably one with a stable temperature of 50˚F to 60˚F (10˚C to 16˚C); in the late autumn though the early spring, we’ve used our garage with excellent results. Allow to air-dry until the breasts are firm like salami, about 2 weeks. If the temperature is a little cooler, drying may take up to 1 week longer; if the temperature is slightly warmer, it may take only 10 days.

To serve, unwrap the duck breasts and cut crosswise into thin slices; cut only as much as you plan to eat. Wrap any uncut portions in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Brési is traditional air-dried beef from the mountainous Jura region that straddles France and Switzerland. A cousin of Italian bresaola and German Bündnerfleisch, brési is customarily cold smoked in between its initial salt curing and the finishing stages of air-drying. The wood smoke perfumes the meat, but it also aids in its preservation because it slows the growth of harmful organisms and creates a protective layer that prevents the growth of unwanted mold and bacteria.

The finished brési has a deep burgundy center and an earthy, delicately smoky flavor. It is typically sliced very thinly and eaten alongside locally produced Gruyère cheese or as an accompaniment to fondue. We also love this air-dried beef in salads, such as Arugula Salad with Fuyu Persimmon and Brési (this page), or cooked with creamy béchamel sauce and wild mushrooms for Creamed Chipped Beef on Toast (this page).

1 whole beef eye of round, trimmed of all exterior fat and silverskin

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

2 bay leaves, crumbled

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 teaspoon curing salt #2

Remove the beef from the refrigerator. Using a sharp metal skewer, pierce the surface of the beef on all sides to a depth of about ½ inch (12 mm), covering it completely with perforations spaced about ½ inch (12 mm) apart. Let the beef stand at room temperature for about 45 minutes. This will allow the muscle fibers to relax and will make it easier for the seasonings to penetrate.

Meanwhile, using a spice grinder, pulverize the thyme, peppercorns, and bay to a fine powder. In a dish large enough to accommodate the beef, stir together the ground spices, the sea salt, and the curing salt.

Lay the beef in the dish and turn to coat with the seasonings. Massage the seasonings into the beef, then let stand at room temperature for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer the beef and any excess seasoning to a large zipper-lock bag, seal well, and refrigerate for 2 weeks. Each day, open the bag and rotate the meat to ensure even seasoning and curing.

After 2 weeks, remove the beef from the bag, discarding any excess seasoning. Wrap the meat in a double layer of cheesecloth. Tie each end tightly with butcher’s twine, leaving a loop at one end for hanging. Cold smoke the beef by hanging it in a smoker or over the embers of a fire; allow to cold smoke for about 3 hours. Periodically check the internal temperature of the beef by inserting a meat thermometer into the center; the internal temperature should not exceed 60˚F (16˚C). If the beef starts to get too warm, take it away from the smoke and cool down the fire down by adding a little water or by simply allowing it to die down. It’s better to smoke the beef for less time than to allow it to start to cook, so err on the side of less smoke.

Once done smoking, hang the beef in a cool, dark, ventilated location, preferably one with a temperature of 50˚F to 60˚F (10˚C to  16˚C); in the late autumn through early spring, we’ve used our garage with excellent results. Allow to air-dry until the meat is firm but not rock hard, 4 to 6 weeks. If the temperature is a little cooler, drying may take a little longer; if the temperature is slightly warmer, it may go more quickly.

To serve, unwrap the beef. Using a meat slicer, mandoline, or sharp knife, slice the meat crosswise as thinly as possible; cut only as much as you plant to eat. Brési is best when freshly sliced, as the slices tend to oxidize and dry out quickly. Wrap the uncut portion in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 months.