COCOA-NIB JAM TART:
CROSTATA DI MARMELLATA CON FAVE DI CACAO
OLIVE OIL–APPLE PIE: SFOGLIATA DI MELE
CHERRY-RICOTTA PIE:
CROSTATA DI VISCIOLE E RICOTTA
NEAPOLITAN STRAWBERRY PIE:
TORTA DI FRAGOLE ALLA NAPOLETANA
HONEY-WALNUT CHOCOLATE GLAZED PIE: BONISSIMA
BIRD’S BEAK PIE: TORTA COI BECCHI
SERVES 8
REGION: Piedmont
There’s a cute twist in this simple, no-fuss, chocolate tart crust. It’s made with finely ground cocoa nibs. Cocoa nibs—little broken-up bits of toasted cocoa bean—are chocolate in its purest state.
Nibs are as chocolatey as chocolate can be, with nothing added—no sugar, no vanilla, no preservatives, just fabulous 100 percent pure chocolate. Here they are ground in a coffee grinder, creating a flourlike texture that gives the crust a deeply rich, full-of-chocolate flavor and aroma.
The crust comes together in minutes, and is more a batter than a true crust. You just blend, then spread into a tart pan, top with jam, and bake for 20 minutes. Simple, yet sophisticated. Apricot, pear, raspberry, and cherry jam go especially well with this rich chocolate crust—orange marmalade, too.
The recipe comes from one of Turin’s renowned pastry chefs and chocolatiers, Marco Vacchieri. Be sure to stop by his shop on your next visit to Piedmont.
del vino il primo,
del caffè il secondo,
della cioccolata il fondo.
WINE FROM THE FIRST, COFFEE FROM
THE SECOND, AND HOT CHOCOLATE
FROM THE BOTTOM. (THE BEST WINE
IS MADE FROM THE FIRST PRESS; THE
SECOND CUP OF COFFEE IS BETTER
BECAUSE THE FIRST IS WEAKER; AND
THE BEST PART OF HOT CHOCOLATE IS AT
THE BOTTOM OF THE MUG.)
Cocoa nibs 
½ cup (2½ ounces/70 grams)
Butter 12 tablespoons (6 ounces/170 grams)
All-purpose flour 1¾ cups (8½ ounces/240 grams)
Confectioners’ sugar 1 cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Eggs 2 large
Unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tablespoon
Jam or marmalade 1 cup (12 ounces/340 grams)
Grind the cocoa nibs in a coffee grinder until the texture resembles flour. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly butter and flour a deep 9-inch (23-centimeter) round tart pan or springform cake pan.
In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the butter and confectioners’ sugar until fluffy. Beat in the eggs until creamy. Add the cocoa nibs, cocoa powder, and flour and beat until well combined.
Spread three quarters of the batter in the bottom of the prepared pan and up the sides to a height of 1 inch (2.5 centimeters).
Spread the jam evenly in the bottom of the tart. Decorate with the remaining crust by piping it out with a pastry bag or thick plastic bag with a tip cut from the corner.
Bake for 20 minutes, or until the crust is firm. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar or cocoa powder and serve.
SERVES 8
REGION: Tuscany, but popular throughout Italy
Torta della nonna, the charmingly named “Grandma’s cake,” is vanilla custard pie generously topped with pine nuts. One of Italy’s most popular desserts, it’s found in every region of Italy, in homes, restaurants, and pastry shops. This dessert is much, much better a day—or even two—after it’s baked. It’s served cold, so although quite rich, it’s a fantastic summer dessert.
e più facile
sposarsi male che
mangiare bene.
IT’S EASIER TO MARRY BADLY
THAN TO EAT WELL.
FOR THE FILLING:
Egg yolks 8 large
Sugar 1 cup (7 ounces/200 grams)
All-purpose flour 1 cup (4½ ounces/130 grams)
Milk 4 cups (32 fluid ounces/960 milliliters)
Pure vanilla extract 1½ tablespoons
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Pine nuts 1 cup (4¾ ounces/135 grams)
FOR THE CRUST:
All-purpose flour 3 cups (14 ounces/400 grams)
Cold unsalted butter 14 tablespoons (7 ounces/200 grams), sliced
Salt ¼ teaspoon
Confectioners’ sugar 1¼ cups (4¼ ounces/120 grams)
Egg yolks 3 large
Pure vanilla extract 1½ tablespoons
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Make the filling: In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and beat, using an electric mixer or whisk, until creamy and light yellow. Mix in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until smooth.
Put the milk, vanilla, and lemon zest in a saucepan and cook over low heat until bubbles begin to form around the edge of the pan. Do not boil.
Remove from the heat and gradually whisk the egg yolk mixture into the hot milk, making sure to whisk until there are no lumps. Return to low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook. The mixture should be thick, but not stiff. It will solidify as it cools.
Immediately remove from the heat and pour into a bowl. Stir in ½ cup (2½ ounces/70 grams) of the pine nuts. Cover with plastic wrap, with the wrap touching the surface of the filling so it doesn’t form a skin, and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.
Make the crust: In a large bowl using your hands, or in a food processor, combine the flour, butter, and salt until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Mix in the confectioners’ sugar, then add the egg yolks, vanilla, and lemon zest and knead until a dough forms. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Assemble the torta: Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly butter and flour a 10- to 11-inch (25- to 28-centimeter) round cake pan.
Roll out half of the dough into a large circle and press it into the bottom of the prepared pan, cutting any excess so it is flush with the top of the pan. Don’t worry if it breaks apart; just press the pieces together in the pan. Using a fork, pierce the dough all over the bottom and sides of the crust. Pour the filling into the crust. Roll out the remaining dough, as thin as possible, to cover the top of the pan. Lay the dough over the top of the cake pan, overlapping the top edges a little. Cut away any excess dough so the crust is flat and flush with the edges. (Do not crimp the edge like with pie.)
Top the crust with the remaining ½ cup (2½ ounces/70 grams) pine nuts and bake for about 50 minutes, until the edges are golden. The filling inside will be very jiggly, but will solidify as it cools. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature on a wire rack, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. The torta is best served after 24 hours and stays fresh in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Sprinkle generously with confectioners’ sugar and serve cold.
SERVES 8
REGION: Abruzzo
This pie features a deeply flavorful, crisp crust filled with slow-cooked apples and dark chocolate. The crust is actually multiple thin layers of dough, like the French millefeuille puff pastry, but made with olive oil instead of butter. Between the layers is a sprinkling of aromatic cinnamon-sugar. Just the aroma of the sugar and cinnamon stick whirling in the food processor is enough to get your mouth watering. Be sure to use a stick of cinnamon, and not ready-ground. It really makes a big difference!
I wasn’t going to include Italian apple pie in this book because I’ve always assumed that the American version can’t be beat. Then I tasted this one, made by a spry grandmother in Teramo and changed my mind.
di maggio ciliege
per assaggio, di giugno
ciliege a pugno.
IN MAY A MERE TASTE OF
CHERRIES, BY JUNE A FISTFUL.
FOR THE FILLING:
Firm cooking apples, such as Rome Beauty or Empire 4 pounds (1.8 kilograms)
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Dark chocolate 1 ounce/30 grams, chopped
Chopped almonds 1/3 cup (1½ ounces/40 grams)
Grated zest of ½ lemon
FOR THE CRUST:
White wine 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Sugar 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces/225 grams)
All-purpose flour 1¾ cups (1 pound/ 455 grams)
Olive oil 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Salt ½ teaspoon
Cinnamon 1 (2-inch/5-centimeter) stick
Make the filling: Peel, core, and slice the apples, then put them in a saucepan and toss with the sugar. Cook, covered, over low heat, for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the consistency is like a thick applesauce. Let cool to room temperature, then stir in the chocolate, almonds, and lemon zest. Set aside.
Make the crust: Combine the wine and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Put the flour on a work surface and make a well in the center. Put the oil, hot wine mixture, and salt in the well and, using a fork, gradually incorporate some of the flour into the liquid until a dough forms. Knead the dough by hand for about 10 minutes, until very elastic and smooth. (Alternatively, knead the dough by passing it through the thickest setting on a pasta maker until elastic and smooth.)
In a mini food processor or coffee grinder, process the remaining 1 cup sugar and the cinnamon stick until the cinnamon is pulverized and fully combined with the sugar. Divide into 4 portions and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly oil a 10-inch (25-centimeter) round cake pan.
Divide the dough into 5 portions, 3 for the bottom crust and 2 for the top crust. On a sheet of parchment paper or on a lightly oiled work surface, roll one portion of dough out to a thin circle just large enough to cover the bottom of the pan. (It does not come up the side of the pan as in traditional pies.) Drizzle with a little oil and sprinkle with one portion of the cinnamon-sugar.
Roll another portion of dough out into a thin disk and put it over the first layer. Drizzle with oil and another portion of the cinnamon-sugar. Top with a third circle of dough, then spread the apple filling over the dough. Sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar.
The top crust is two layers thick: Top the apple filling with a circle of dough, drizzle with oil, and sprinkle with the remaining cinnamon-sugar. Finish with a final layer of dough. Pierce the dough with a fork all along the edge of the pie to seal all the layers. (Note that the crust is flush with the edges of the pan, more like a cake than our traditional crimped pie-crusts.)
Bake for about 20 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.
Italians are extraordinarily hospitable, friendly, and helpful. They are also fiercely proud of their culinary traditions, so it was great fun asking for their help in gathering recipes and learning to make them for this book.
One of my favorite experiences was in Teramo, a city in Abruzzo where a friend from Rome, Febo Cammarano, meticulously orchestrated three marvelous days for me—packed from early morning until late evening with fabulous foodie experiences. He arranged for me to learn desserts with folks as varied as author and cooking school teacher Rosita Di Antonio, to artisan vin cotto maker Ezio Di Giacomo and home cooks like Tiziana Ragusi who arranged a particularly charming encounter. She persuaded her mother-in-law, two friends, and even her own sixteen-year-old son, Roberto, to prepare different desserts simultaneously so that I could learn four recipes in the most concentrated time period. They were all super-organized and amazingly patient as I stopped each one of them several times for photos and questions.
This pie is one of the desserts from that session, prepared by Margherita Palumbi, Tiziana’s mother-in-law, Roberto’s grandmother.
SERVES 8 TO 10
REGION: Lazio, especially Rome
Filled with fabulous, fluffy white ricotta and a layer of cherry marmalade, this pie is a Roman-Jewish specialty.
mangio le ciliegie per
la prima volta in un anno.
I’M EATING CHERRIES FOR THE FIRST
TIME IN A YEAR. (ITALIANS OFTEN MAKE
A WISH WHEN EATING THE FIRST CHERRY
OF THE SEASON.)
1 recipe Pie Crust Dough (page 198)
Egg whites 3 large
Sugar 1/3 cup (2¼ ounces/65 grams), plus more to taste
Ricotta cheese 2¾ cups (1½ pounds/ 680 grams)
Wild or sour cherry preserves (marmellata di visciole) 1 cup (about 8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Shape about two thirds of the dough into a ball and roll it out into a circle large enough to line a 9-inch (23-centimeter) deep-dish pie pan. Fit it into the pan, bringing the dough up the sides about 2 inches (5 centimeters) high. Using a fork, pierce holes all over the bottom of the crust. Gently line the crust with aluminum foil, fill with uncooked dried beans or pie weights, and bake for about 6 minutes, until lightly golden. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until frothy, then add the sugar and continue to beat until glossy and stiff peaks form. Fluff the ricotta a little with a fork, then fold it into the whites until combined.
Spread the cherry preserves in the bottom of the crust, then top with the ricotta mixture.
Roll out the remaining dough into a circle and set it over the filling. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the crust is golden. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack before serving.
SERVES 8
REGION: Piedmont and northern Italy
The moist, foolproof brownielike crust, made from crushed amaretti, comes together in a blink in a food processor yet looks and tastes pastry-shop perfect. Depending on the season, you can substitute other fresh fruit, such as peaches or apricots, for the pears.
quannu lu piru e
maturu, cadi sulu.
WHEN THE PEAR IS
RIPE, IT FALLS BY ITSELF.
Butter 5 tablespoons (10 ounces/280 grams)
Amaretti (almond cookies) 40 cookies (about 4 ounces/115 grams)
Eggs 3 large
Dark chocolate 3½ ounces/100 grams
Cream or milk 2 tablespoons
1 very ripe Bartlet or William pear
Sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter an 8-inch (20-centimeter) round removable-bottom tart pan.
In a food processor, process the amaretti until very finely ground. Add the butter and eggs and process until well combined. Set aside.
Put the chocolate and cream in a small bowl and melt the chocolate, either in a microwave oven or over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Add to the amaretti mixture and process until well combined and creamy. Spread the mixture evenly in the prepared pan.
Peel, core, and thinly slice the pear lengthwise. Firmly press the core sides of the slices into the dough in a fan shape. Sprinkle the pear slices with sugar and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in center of the tart comes out clean. Serve warm.
SERVES 8
REGION: Campania
Just like strawberry soufflé—but without the anxiety. This specialty of Naples is served icy cold and makes a fabulous summer dessert.
vedi napoli e poi muori.
SEE NAPLES,
THEN YOU CAN DIE.
Fresh strawberries 2 pounds (910 grams), washed, hulled, and sliced
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Dessert wine, such as Zibibbo or Marsala ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Eggs 6 large
Heavy cream 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon
Savoiardi (crisp ladyfingers) 8 cookies
1 recipe Pie Crust Dough (page 198)
Put the strawberries in a bowl, sprinkle with ¼ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams) of the sugar, the wine, and lemon zest. Let macerate at room temperature for 1 hour to allow the flavors to mingle.
In a large bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams) sugar, the eggs, cream, and cinnamon and whisk until combined. Cut the savoiardi into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) pieces and stir them into the mixture. Set aside for 30 minutes so the savoiardi can soften.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 360°F (185°C).
Roll half of the dough out into a circle large enough to line a 9-inch (23-centimeter) pie pan and press it in the pan. With a fork, pierce the bottom and sides of the crust. Roll the rest of the dough into a flat circle, then cut it into ½-inch (12-millimeter) strips for the lattice top.
Use a slotted spoon to spread the strawberries with a little of their liquid in the bottom crust. Pour the savoiardi mixture over the strawberries. Using the strips of dough, form a lattice over the top of the pie.
Bake for about 50 minutes, until the crust is golden. The center of the filling will be a little jiggly, but it will set as it cools. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack, then refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve cold.
SERVES 8
REGION: Emilia-Romagna
Glazed with dark chocolate, this pie is filled with just three ingredients—walnuts, honey, and a splash of rum. Another example of how Italians only feature a few key ingredients to focus flavor!
Originally made without chocolate or rum, the dessert was modified in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries to include those New World ingredients. This pie, called bonissima, is traditionally served during the Christmas holidays.
Near the Piazza Grande in Modena stands a life-size statue of a simply dressed woman that dates to 1468. Locals call her la Bonissima, “the Good One,” in honor of a legendary wealthy medieval woman who gave all her riches to feed Modena’s poor during a famine.
dolce come il miele.
SWEET AS HONEY.
Plain bread crumbs 1 tablespoon
1 recipe Pie Crust Dough (page 198)
Coarsely chopped walnuts 1¾ cups (6 ounces/170 grams)
Honey 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Rum 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (3½ fluid ounces/95 milliliters)
Dark chocolate 3½ ounces/100 grams, chopped
Heavy cream 1/3 cup (2½ fluid ounces/75 milliliters)
Butter 1 teaspoon
Preheat the oven to 360°F (180°C).
Sprinkle the bread crumbs in the bottom of a 9-inch (23-centimeter) pie pan. Roll one ball of dough out into a circle large enough to line the pan and fit it in the pan. Using a fork, pierce the bottom and sides of the crust all over. Roll the second ball of dough out into a circle large enough to cover the pan.
In a medium bowl, combine the walnuts, honey, and rum and stir until combined. (The filling mixture will be liquidy, but will soak into the crust as the pie bakes.) Pour the filling into the bottom crust and set the top crust over the filling. Do not crimp the edges, but rather cut off the crusts flush with the edge of the pan. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the crust is golden. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack.
Put the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the cream until very warm but not boiling, then pour it over the chocolate, stirring until the chocolate melts. Stir in the butter. Let cool to room temperature, then spread the glaze over the top of the pie.
Serve at room temperature.
SERVES 8 TO 10
REGION: Emilia-Romagna
With a moist, nutty spongelike center and fragrant hints of wine and spices, this must-try pie was a favorite of composer Giuseppe Verdi. The recipe can be found in fourteenth-century Italian cookbooks. Food historians think it was either brought to Italy by the Jews or is based on an ancient Roman recipe for spiced bread. Spongata comes from the word spugna, or “sponge,” and refers to the consistency of the filling and the tiny holes poked into the crust’s surface. It may sound like a drawback, but one of the fun things about the filling is the fact that it’s traditionally left to mellow for a few days before baking. Anticipation is a wonderful feeling, especially when it comes to sweets. But be warned: Don’t taste the filling before you bake it. Oh, there’s nothing in it that you can’t eat raw, but if you taste it, you’ll eat it all and there won’t be anything left for the pie!
una noce in un sacco
non fa rumore.
ONE WALNUT IN A BAG
CAN’T MAKE NOISE.
Amaretti (almond cookies) 6 cookies
Plain dried bread crumbs ¼ cup (1 ounce/30 grams)
Blanched whole almonds ⅔ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams), toasted
Walnuts ½ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams), toasted
Pine nuts 1/3 cup (1½ ounces/40 grams), toasted
Raisins 1/3 cup (2 ounces/55 grams)
Candied citron or candied orange peel ¼ cup (2 ounces/55 grams) or grated zest of 1 orange
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
Honey 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
White wine ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
1 recipe Pie Crust Dough (page 198)
Olive oil 2 tablespoons
Confectioners’ sugar
Put the amaretti in a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the bread crumbs, almonds, walnuts, and pine nuts and pulse until the nuts are coarsely ground. Add the raisins, citron, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves and pulse until combined. Set aside.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and place a medium glass bowl over the water. When the water boils, add the honey to the bowl and stir until it liquefies. Add the ground amaretti mixture and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the wine. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a cool, dry place for 2 to 15 days, stirring the filling mixture each day.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Roll one half of the dough out into a circle large enough to line an 8-inch (20-centimeter) tart or pie pan and fit it in the pan.
Spoon in the filling (it will only come halfway up the pie pan) and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over it. Roll out the remaining dough and place it over the filling, but do not crimp the edges as with traditional American pies. The edges should meet flush, so trim the edges of the pie to cut away any excess dough. Using a fork or skewer, pierce the top crust, then brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil.
Bake for about 25 minutes, until golden. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack, then sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and serve. This pie keeps well for several days.
SERVES 8
REGION: Tuscany, especially the city of Lucca
Rice pudding slow-cooked to creamy perfection, then baked with dark chocolate, pine nuts, and hints of orange—this not only tastes astonishing, but also has an adorable crust and cute double-entendre name.
Becchi literally means “bird beaks,” and the name comes from the fact that the dough around the pie is pinched into thick beak-looking points. But becco is also slang for “cuckold” in Tuscany, where this pie is always served with a wink.
l’uccello dal becco
grosso non puó cantar fine.
A BIRD WITH A BIG BEAK CAN’T
SING SWEETLY.
Milk 5 cups (40 fluid ounces/1.2 liters)
Long-grain rice 1 cup (7½ ounces/215 grams)
Sugar ¾ cup (5¼ ounces/150 grams)
Salt
Dark chocolate 3½ ounces/100 grams, chopped
Raisins 1/3 cup (2 ounces/55 grams)
Pine nuts ½ cup (2½ ounces/70 grams), toasted in a dry pan
Diced candied orange or citron peel ¼ cup (2 ounces/55 grams) or grated zest of ½ orange
Unsweetened cocoa powder 2 tablespoons
Orange liqueur, such as Aurum or Grand Marnier ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters)
Butter for the pan
1 recipe Pie Crust Dough (page 198)
Egg yolks 3 large, beaten
Combine the milk, rice, sugar, and salt to taste in a medium saucepan and bring to a low boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is very soft, about 30 minutes. Add more milk, if needed; the rice should be loose. Add the chocolate to the hot rice mixture, stirring until melted. Stir in the raisins, pine nuts, candied orange peel, cocoa powder, and liqueur. Let cool to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-centimeter) pie pan.
Roll the dough out into a large circle and cut off four or five 1-inch-(2.5-centimeter-) wide strips of dough for topping the pie. Fit the dough into the prepared pan. Fold the edges of the dough and shape into thick bird beaks by pinching the dough between your thumb and forefinger; space the beaks around the edge so that each slice will feature one centered beak.
Stir the egg yolks into the cooled rice mixture. If the mixture is too thick, add a little more milk. Spoon the mixture into the crust and top with the strips of dough. Bake for about 50 minutes, until the crust is golden. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack and serve.
