WINTER FRUIT SALAD: MACEDONIA INVERNALE
AWARD-WINNING PARMESAN PANNA COTTA WITH PEARS:
PANNA COTTA AL GRANA PADANA E PERE
BAROLO POACHED PEARS WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE:
PERE MARTINE AL BAROLO
CHOCOLATE RICE PUDDING: RISO NERO
SICILIAN WATERMELON PUDDING: GELO DI ANGURIA
COFFEE ON A FORK: CAFFÈ IN FORCHETTA
RICOTTA “SUNDAE”: RICOTTA CONDITA
CANTUCCI CARAMEL CUSTARD: BUDINO DI CANTUCCI
AMARETTI CUSTARD: BONET DI AMARETTI
SERVES 10 TO 12
REGION: Throughout Italy
This is a terrific no-cook, no-fuss dessert that’s very popular with home cooks in Italy, but not very well known in the United States. Mix your favorite dried fruits with nuts, chopped chocolate, and any candy you have on hand. Add some orange juice and a splash of liqueur and pass the spoons. It’s a little like a deconstructed fruit cake—only scrumptious and striking—especially if you include colorful dried fruit like strawberries, cherries, and apricots.
a ben condire
l’insalata ci vuole un
saggio per mettere il sale, un avaro
per l’aceto, uno sprecone per l’olio
e un matto per mischiarla.
TO MAKE A SALAD IT TAKES A WISE
MAN TO ADD SALT, A MISER FOR THE
VINEGAR, A SPENDTHRIFT TO ADD THE
OIL, AND A LUNATIC TO MIX IT.
2 handfuls assorted dried fruit, chopped
2 handfuls assorted chopped nuts
1 handful soft torrone (Italian nougat candy), or assorted leftover candy bars, chopped
1 handful dark chocolate, chopped
1 handful milk chocolate, chopped
10 amaretti (crisp almond cookies) or other cookies, coarsely chopped
A little candied orange peel, minced
Freshly squeezed orange juice
Italian liqueur such as limoncello or amaretto
Mascarpone cheese or whipped cream
In a resealable plastic bag or plastic container with a lid, combine the dried fruit, nuts, torrone, dark and milk chocolates, amaretti, and candied orange peel. Seal and set aside in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months.
One hour before serving, add enough orange juice to moisten the fruit mixture. Just before serving, add liqueur to taste, if you like. Serve in wineglasses, topped with a dollop of mascarpone cheese or whipped cream.
SERVES 6
REGION: Tuscany
Parmesan cheese adds a lovely salty-savory touch to panna cotta. A hint of thyme adds lovely aroma as well as an additional savory sweetness. The pears, simmered in Tuscany’s famed Chianti wine, tie both together in a perfectly calibrated dessert.
I wanted a mix of sources for the recipes in this book, so I reached out to gray-haired grannies, hip foodies, bloggers, and even winners of Italian amateur cooking contests. This delightful prizewinning dessert was created by a young Tuscan carpenter, Roberto Gracci.
al contadino non
far sapere quanto è
buono il cacio con le pere.
DON’T LET THE FARMER KNOW HOW
DELICIOUS CHEESE AND PEARS ARE.
(A TUSCAN EXPRESSION, SAID WHENEVER
PEARS AND CHEESE ARE SERVED.)
FOR THE PANNA COTTA:
Milk 
2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters)
Parmesan cheese 2 ounces/55 grams, grated
Sugar 1/3 cup (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
Unflavored gelatin 1 envelope (¼ ounce/7 grams)
Heavy cream 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
FOR THE THYME CREAM AND PEARS:
Milk ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
Fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoon
Egg yolks 2 large
Confectioners’ sugar 1/3 cup (1¼ ounces/35 grams)
Chianti wine ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
2 small ripe pears, peeled and thinly sliced
Make the panna cotta: In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cheese, and sugar and heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the gelatin, and stir until it is dissolved, then stir in the cream. Using an immersion blender or whisk, beat the mixture for 1 minute to combine the ingredients.
Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into six individual-serving ramekins or molds. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours.
Make the thyme cream and pears: In a small saucepan, heat the milk and thyme over medium-high heat until warm. Remove from the heat, pour into a bowl, and let cool to room temperature. In the same saucepan, combine the egg yolks and confectioners’ sugar and, using an electric mixer, beat until creamy. Pour the thyme-milk through a fine-mesh sieve into the saucepan and stir until well combined. Heat over low heat until the mixture thickens, about 4 minutes. Pour the mixture into a small bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Combine the wine and pear slices in a small saucepan and simmer, covered, until softened. Set aside.
Run a knife around the edge of each ramekin and turn the panna cotta out onto a serving plate. Arrange slices of pear on one side of the plate, topped with some of the Chianti syrup. Drizzle some of the thyme cream on the panna cotta.
SERVES 8
REGION: Piedmont
Panna cotta is a specialty of Piedmont, so I asked for help from Franco Piumatti, a professional chef from the region. His recipe creates a panna cotta with an ethereal mouthfeel, silky smooth, never rubbery. It provides the perfect canvas for anything that accompanies it—fresh fruit, chocolate, or caramel. Chef Franco stressed two things: One, buy the very best cream you can find at your local farmers’ market and two, despite its name—“cooked cream”—do not heat the cream. Its aroma and flavor will be ruined if it’s heated, so add it cold.
cotto d’amore.
TO BE MADLY IN LOVE.
Milk 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Unflavored gelatin 1 envelope (¼ ounce/ 7 grams)
Sugar 1/3 cup (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
Heavy cream 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters)
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, gelatin, and sugar and let stand for a minute or two so the gelatin dissolves. Bring to a low boil, stirring until the sugar and gelatin are dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream. Taste and add more sugar, if you like. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into six individual-sized ramekins, or into a larger mold, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours. To unmold, run a knife around the edge of the ramekins or mold, and turn each one out onto a serving plate. Serve cold.
UN ALTRO MODO
Coffee Panna Cotta: Add 1 shot freshly brewed espresso and 1 teaspoon finely ground espresso beans when you add the cream.
Hazelnut Panna Cotta: Add 1 tablespoon hazelnut butter (or other nut butter, such as pistachio or almond butter) when you add the sugar.
Lemon or Orange Panna Cotta: Add the zest of 1 lemon or ½ orange to the milk.
Drunken Panna Cotta: Stir in a splash of rum or your favorite liqueur when you add the sugar.
After-Eight Panna Cotta (Dopo le 8): Add fresh mint leaves to the milk, and serve topped with melted or finely chopped dark chocolate.
Panna Cotta with Sweet and Salty Caramel Sauce: Top the panna cotta with this amazingly addictive caramel sauce: Simmer ½ cup (4 ounces/95 grams) sugar with ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters) water in a saucepan over medium high heat until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Very slowly pour in ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) cream and cook until thick, about 6 minutes. Stir in a pinch of sea salt and let cool.
SERVES 6
REGION: Calabria
If you like licorice, even just a little, you owe it to yourself to try this recipe.
It takes just a few minutes to make and you’ll be rewarded with a grown-up, gourmet, creamy version of Good & Plenty.
una mosca bianca
SAID OF A WHITE FLY.
(SOMETHING VERY UNUSUAL.)
Unsweetened licorice candies, such as Amarelli 1 ounce/30 grams
Milk 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Unflavored gelatin 1 envelope (¼ ounce/ 7 grams)
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Heavy cream 2½ cups (20 fluid ounces/600 milliliters)
Put the licorice in a spice or coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder. You should get a little more than 2 tablespoons powder.
In a saucepan, combine 1 tablespoon of the licorice powder with the milk and sugar and bring to a low boil.
Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin and lemon zest, stirring until the gelatin is dissolved. Stir in the cream. Taste and, if you like, add a little more licorice, reserving the rest for garnish.
Pour the mixture into six individual-serving cups or ramekins, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until set, about 6 hours.
To unmold, run a knife around the edge of each ramekin and turn them out onto serving plates. Serve topped with lemon zest and a sprinkle of licorice powder.
SERVES 6
REGION: Piedmont, but popular throughout Italy
How three simple ingredients can produce such ecstasy is testament to the marvels of Italian cuisine. Zabaglione can be served warm or chilled, either by itself or with fresh berries and a slice of pandoro or panettone. I learned how to make zabaglione in Verona at the famed 12 Apostoli restaurant. There the chef showed me the charming way Italians measure out the ingredients using an eggshell. For every egg, he used one of the broken shells to measure the sugar and Marsala—five eggs get five half-eggshell-fulls. If you want to make more or less zabaglione, just increase or decrease the eggs and adjust accordingly.
val più un buon
giorno con uovo, che un
mal’anno con un bue.
BETTER A GOOD DAY WITH JUST
AN EGG THAN A BAD YEAR
FEASTING ON OX.
Egg yolks 5 large
Sugar 5 tablespoons (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
Marsala wine ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
Bring a pot of water to a boil. In a large metal or heat-proof glass bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk until creamy. Set the bowl over the boiling water, without letting the bottom touch the water, and continue whisking. Gradually pour in the Marsala while continuing to whisk. Continue whisking until the custard has doubled in volume and is thick enough to coat a spoon, about 10 minutes. Serve warm or chilled.
SERVES 4
REGION: Piedmont and Val d’Aosta
4 large pears or 8 small Martin Sech pears
Red wine, such as Barolo 3 cups (24 fluid ounces/720 milliliters)
Cloves 4 whole
Cinnamon 1 (2-inch/5-centimeter) stick
Dark brown sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Dark chocolate 2 ounces/55 grams
Heavy cream or milk 2 tablespoons
Peel and core the pears, but leave them whole. Put the pears, wine, cloves, cinnamon, and brown sugar in a medium saucepan and simmer over very low heat for about 30 minutes, or until the pears are tender. Remove the pears from the pan and place them on a serving plate. Continue to simmer the liquid in the pan until thick and syrupy, about 15 minutes. When ready to serve, put the chocolate and cream in a small bowl and melt the chocolate, either in a microwave oven or over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Serve the pears at room temperature, topped with wine syrup, and chocolate sauce on the side.
SERVES 8
REGION: Sicily
Rice pudding seasoned with lots of dark chocolate and hints of sweet liqueur and orange: a Sicilian classic!
l’arancia la mattina
è oro, ’l meriggio
è argento, la sera è piombo.
AN ORANGE IS GOLD IN THE
MORNING, SILVER IN THE AFTERNOON,
AND LEAD AT NIGHT.
Milk 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Long-grain rice 1 cup (7½ ounces/215 grams)
Salt ¼ teaspoon
Dark chocolate 3 to 4 ounces/85 to 115 grams
Sugar ½ cup (4 ounces/95 grams)
Raisins ¾ cup (4½ ounces/130 grams)
Strega or other Italian liqueur 6 tablespoons
Pine nuts 1/3 cup (1½ ounces/40 grams)
Grated zest of 1 orange
In a medium saucepan, combine ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) water, the milk, rice, and salt and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender, about 25 minutes. Add more milk if the mixture becomes too dry.
Remove from the heat, add the chocolate and sugar, and stir until the chocolate is dissolved. Stir in the raisins, liqueur, and pine nuts and let the mixture cool to room temperature. Serve topped with shaved chocolate and orange zest.
SERVES 4
REGION: Sicily
Watermelon juice thickened with a little cornstarch creates a light, nondairy, nonfat treat that’s perfect for a hot summer day. The bits of chocolate, which whimsically mimic watermelon seeds, add nice flavor and crunch. It is often served topped with fragrant jasmine flowers.
This watermelon custard, or gelu di miluni in Sicilian dialect, is served all summer, but especially on July 15 in Palermo, in honor of the city’s patron saint, Saint Rosalia. It’s also commonly served on Ferragosto, August 15, Italy’s national holiday that marks the start of summer vacation.
pesche e meloni delizia
dei ghiottoni.
PEACHES AND MELONS,
A GOURMET’S DELIGHT.
Diced seeded watermelon 3 to 4 cups (about 1 pound/450 grams)
Cornstarch 3½ tablespoons
Sugar 1/3 cup (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
Maraschino liqueur 2 tablespoons
Dark chocolate, finely chopped
Chopped pistachios
Puree the watermelon in a food processor until liquidy, and then press through a fine-mesh sieve. You will need 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters) liquid, so process more watermelon if necessary.
Combine the watermelon juice, cornstarch, and sugar in a saucepan and, off the heat, whisk until the cornstarch is fully dissolved. Simmer the mixture over low heat until it thickens, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the Maraschino liqueur. Taste and add more sugar, if you like. Pour into 4 serving cups or molds and refrigerate until firm, about 3 hours.
To serve, unmold onto serving plates or serve in the cups and garnish with chocolate and pistachios.
UN ALTRO MODO
Orange Gelo: Substitute 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters) freshly squeezed orange juice for the watermelon juice.
Lemon Gelo: Substitute 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters) freshly squeezed lemon juice diluted with 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters) water for the watermelon juice. Adjust the sugar to taste.
Coffee Gelo: Substitute 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters) freshly brewed coffee or espresso for the watermelon juice. Dilute with water and sweeten with sugar to taste.
Cinnamon Gelo: Steep several 2-inch (5-centimeter) cinnamon sticks overnight in 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters) water. Bring to a boil and strain, substituting this liquid for the watermelon juice.
SERVES 8 TO 10
REGION: Emilia-Romagna
This dish varies in Italy from a very creamy trifle served in a large bowl, to firmer ones, which slice like cake. This is the classic version popular in Emilia. Savoiardi (crisp lady fingers) are moistened with liqueur, then layered with lemon and chocolate custards and topped with meringue. A great make-ahead dessert, it’s even better the next day.
Zuppa inglese translates as English soup. But this dish is neither English nor a soup. The name may perhaps come from the word inzuppare, which means “to soak up,” or could come from its similarity to English trifle.
se non e’ zuppa,
e’ pan bagnato.
IF IT’S NOT SOUP,
IT’S SOAKED BREAD.
(THERE’S NO DIFFERENCE.)
FOR THE FILLINGS:
1 recipe Pastry Cream (page 197), unchilled
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Dark chocolate 2½ ounces/70 grams, finely chopped
Unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tablespoon
TO ASSEMBLE:
Liqueur, such as alchermes (page 182), Maraschino, or Kirsch 6 tablespoons
Warm water 1/3 cup (2½ fluid ounces/70 milliliters)
Sugar 4 tablespoons (1¾ ounces/50 grams)
Savoiardi (crisp ladyfingers) 48 cookies (one 14-ounce/400-gram package)
Egg whites 3 large
Confectioners’ sugar 7/8 cup (3 ounces/85 grams)
Cherries, either fresh, frozen, or in brandy
Make the fillings: Pour half of the hot pastry cream (about 3 cups, or 24 fluid ounces/720 milliliters) into a medium bowl and stir in the lemon zest and juice. Pour the remaining pastry cream into another medium bowl and stir in the chocolate and cocoa powder until the chocolate is melted.
Cover both bowls with plastic wrap, with the wrap touching the surface of the custards so they don’t form skins, and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.
To assemble the dessert: In a small bowl, combine the liqueur, warm water, and sugar to taste and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Arrange one layer of savoiardi on an oven-safe serving platter or bowl and, brush with half of the liqueur mixture, then spread with the lemon custard. Place a second layer of savoiardi on top and brush with the remaining liqueur syrup. Spread with the chocolate custard. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the zuppa inglese overnight or for up to 24 hours.
Just before serving, preheat the broiler.
In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites and confectioners’ sugar until glossy and stiff. Remove the plastic wrap from the zuppa inglese and top with cherries. Spread with the meringue and put the cake on the lowest rack of the oven, away from the broiler. Broil until the meringue sets and becomes firm, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
REGION: Valle d’Aosta and northern Italy
Coffee and dessert in one! This is a silky custard that forms a crunchy caramel top crust as it bakes.
chi ha delle pecore
può far del latte.
THE ONE WITH THE SHEEP
GETS THE MILK.
Eggs 5 large
Egg yolks 2 large
Sugar 1 cup (7 ounces/200 grams)
Milk 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Freshly brewed espresso, cold ¾ cup (6 fluid ounces/180 milliliters—about 3 shots)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Add boiling water to a large roasting pan until one-third full. Place 6 ramekins or oven-safe coffee cups in the pan.
In a large bowl, with a whisk or an electric mixer, beat the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar to taste until creamy. Add the milk and espresso and beat until well blended. Do not overbeat, or the mixture will become too frothy. If that happens, just allow it to settle for 30 minutes or pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve.
Pour into the ramekins and bake for 30 minutes, until a golden crust forms on top. It will be a little jiggly in the center. That’s normal; it will firm up as it cools. Remove the pan from the oven and the ramekins from the pan. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve cold.
SERVES 6
REGION: Piedmont, Valle d’Aosta, and northern Italy
Chocolate-chestnut puree topped with brandy-spiked whipped cream—a melt-in-your-mouth delight. Called monte bianco, or white mountain, because the dessert looks like the snow-capped Alps, many Italians elaborate on the theme and scatter candied violets and crushed candied chestnuts on the “mountain” to look like flowers and rocks.
una settimana bianca.
A WHITE WEEK.
(A WINTER VACATION.)
Fresh chestnuts (see Note) 1 pound/455 grams
Milk 2½ cups (20 fluid ounces/600 milliliters)
Sugar ¾ cup (5¼ ounces/150 grams)
Fennel seeds 2 tablespoons
Dark chocolate 2 ounces/55 grams, finely chopped
Brandy or rum ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (2½ fluid ounces/75 milliliters)
Pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon
Heavy cream 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Pierce the skin of each chestnut with a knife. Boil them in a large pot of water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and let cool only slightly—it’s much easier to peel them while they’re warm. Peel the chestnuts and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, ½ cup (3.5 ounces/95 grams) of the sugar, and fennel and cook over low heat to release the fennel’s flavor, about 5 minutes. Strain to remove the fennel and return the liquid to the saucepan. Add the chestnuts and simmer for 20 minutes. Put the warm chestnut mixture into a food processor along with the chocolate, ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters) of the brandy, and the vanilla. Pulse to combine, then process until very smooth. Let cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
Put a tall glass upside down in the center of a serving plate. Press the chestnut mixture through a potato ricer and form it into a mountain-shaped cone around the glass. Remove the glass.
In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, whip the cream and remaining ¼ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams) of the remaining sugar until firm peaks form. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon brandy. Fill the hollow left by the glass with whipped cream and top the chestnut “mountain” with more whipped cream. Serve immediately.
NOTE: You can also make this dessert with ready-roasted chestnuts, available in most supermarkets, or with dried chestnuts, my personal favorite. The dried ones are great because the flavor is a little more intense than the ready-roasted jarred variety. Just soak the dried chestnuts overnight, then simmer in water until soft.
SERVES AS MANY AS YOU LIKE
REGION: Lazio and southern Italy
In Italy, where locally made fresh ricotta is a matter of town pride, it’s often served for dessert, accompanied by an assortment of toppings—just like our ice-cream sundaes. In Rome, the favorite topping is finely ground espresso beans, sugar, and a splash of rum. In other regions, the topping of choice may be grated dark chocolate, honey, or fruit preserves. This is an effortless and fun dessert.
mangiare in bianco
EATING “WHITE.”
(EATING BLAND WHITE FOODS,
LIKE RICE AND PASTA, WHEN ILL.)
Ricotta cheese
Finely ground espresso beans
Superfine sugar
Rum, amaretto, or other Italian liqueur
Dark chocolate, grated on a cheese grater
Ground cinnamon
Fruit preserves
Fresh fruit
Honey
Give each guest a small bowlful of the ricotta. Serve accompanied by the other ingredients, to taste.
UN ALTRO MODO
Sweet Saffron Ricotta: Add a few drops of hot water to a pinch or two of saffron threads to release the color and flavor. Blend the saffron into ricotta, sweetened with sugar and Marsala wine.
Rum and Chocolate Ricotta: Using a fork, combine 16 ounces/455 grams ricotta with ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) sugar, 2 ounces (55 grams) grated dark chocolate, and 3 tablespoons golden raisins that were soaked in 1/3 cup (2½ fluid ounces/75 milliliters) rum until plump. Refrigerate for a few hours for the flavors to meld. Serve at room temperature.
SERVES 8
REGION: Tuscany
This is like flan or crème caramel, but with Italian flare. A foolproof custard that comes together with a few kitchen staples plus cantucci, almond biscotti from Tuscany. I’m grateful to Ubaldo Corsini, the charming owner of Corsini Biscotti in Tuscany, for teaching me to make this pretty dessert that makes such good use of his fabulous cantucci.
per i buoni bocconi
si fanno le questioni.
TO GET A TASTY MOUTHFUL
FOLKS WILL QUARREL. (WHEN THERE’S
A LOT AT STAKE, THERE WILL BE
ARGUMENTS.)
Sugar 1 cup (7 ounces/200 grams)
Eggs 3 large
Egg yolks 2 large
Pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon
Milk 1¼ cups (10 fluid ounces/300 milliliters)
Heavy cream 1¼ cups (10 fluid ounces/300 milliliters)
Cantucci cookies (almond biscotti) 4 ounces/115 grams
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Put eight individual-serving ramekins (see Note) in a deep roasting pan filled with 2 inches (5 centimeters) of hot water.
Put ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) of the sugar in a small, heavy saucepan and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon water. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, over medium heat until the sugar melts and becomes golden, about 5 minutes. Carefully divide the mixture among the ramekins so that it covers the bottom. Set aside.
In a large bowl, using an electric mixer or whisk, beat the remaining sugar, eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla until light yellow and creamy.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the milk and cream until bubbles just begin to form around the edges of the pan, then slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture and gently whisk to combine. Stir in the cookie pieces. Using a large spoon or ladle, divide the mixture among the ramekins, being sure to distribute the cookie pieces evenly. Bake for about 45 minutes, until firm and light golden on top. Remove the ramekins from the pan and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve. To serve, run a knife around the edges of the ramekins and turn out onto serving plates so the caramel is on top. Serve cold.
NOTE: You can also make this dessert in a loaf pan. It will just need an extra 5 minutes in the oven.
SERVES 8 TO 10
REGION: Piedmont
Creamy custard topped with simple-to-make caramel—this is a fool-proof classic that looks and tastes impressive. Master this basic Italian recipe, which is a snap, and you can create hundreds of variations.
The name bonet comes from the Piedmont dialect for “little cap,” referring to the hat-shaped cooking containers it was made in. Many people in Piedmont, however, will tell you that the name comes from the fact that this dessert was the last thing eaten at a meal, just as a hat is the last thing you put on when you’re ready to leave.
non mettere il tuo
cucchiaio nell’altrui zuppa.
DON’T STICK YOUR SPOON INTO
SOMEONE ELSE’S SOUP.
Sugar 1 cup (7 ounces/200 grams)
Milk 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters)
Amaretti (crisp almond cookies) 3 ounces/85 grams (about 20 cookies)
Unsweetened cocoa powder 2 tablespoons
Eggs 4 large
Egg yolks 2 large
Rum 3 tablespoons
Freshly brewed hot espresso 2 tablespoons
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). In a medium saucepan, combine ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) of the sugar and ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) water and boil until the mixture becomes a golden caramel color. Let the syrup cool for a few minutes, then pour into a medium (5-by-9-inch/12-by-23-centimeter) loaf pan. Chill the pan in the refrigerator to harden the syrup.
Meanwhile, put the milk in the saucepan you just used to make the sugar syrup. Bring the milk to a low boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a food processor, combine the amaretti, the remaining ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) sugar, and the cocoa powder and pulse until the amaretti are finely ground. Add the eggs, egg yolks, rum, and espresso and process until combined. Very gradually process in the warm milk. Process until well combined.
Pour the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Put the loaf pan in a larger roasting pan filled halfway with hot water. Bake until set, about 50 minutes. The custard will be slightly soft in the middle, but will solidify as it cools. Refrigerate until cold.
Turn the cold bonet onto a serving platter so the pretty caramel bottom is on top. Slice and serve.
UN ALTRO MODO
Citrus Bonet: Omit the cocoa powder and espresso and add the juice and grated zest of 1 lemon or ½ orange.
Nut Bonet: Omit the cocoa and espresso and add a handful of finely crushed nuts, such as pistachios or almonds.
SERVES 6
REGION: Veneto originally, but now popular throughout Italy
Tiramisù appears on just about every restaurant menu in every region of Italy, but it’s a favorite of Italian home cooks as well. First created in the 1960s in a restaurant in the town of Treviso, close to Venice, tiramisù means “pick me up” in Italian. Urban legend has it that a very nice brothel near the restaurant served it to their lovely “employees” between shifts.
This is the classic version. Store-bought savoiardi are dipped in coffee and layered with whipped mascarpone cheese, then topped with grated chocolate or cocoa powder.
ognuno tira l’acqua
al suo mulino.
EVERYONE DRAWS WATER TO HIS
OWN MILL. (EVERYONE ACTS IN
HIS OWN INTEREST.)
Eggs 3 large, separated
Sugar 5 tablespoons (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
Mascarpone cheese about 1½ cups (12 ounces/340 grams)
Savoiardi (crisp ladyfingers) 20 cookies
Brewed espresso 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Rum
Dark chocolate, finely grated; or unsweetened cocoa powder
In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites and 1 tablespoon of the sugar until soft peaks form.
In another medium bowl, beat the egg yolks and the remaining 4 tablespoons sugar until creamy and pale yellow. Beat in the mascarpone and then gently fold in the whites.
Dip 6 savoiardi in the espresso spiked with a splash of rum and use them to line the bottom of a high-rimmed serving dish. Spread one third of the mascarpone mixture over the savoiardi. Repeat to make another two layers.
Top the final mascarpone layer with a generous amount of grated chocolate or cocoa powder just before serving.
UN ALTRO MODO
Fruit Tiramisù: Instead of coffee, dip the savoiardi into diluted jam or sweet liqueur, and layer with fresh fruit in addition to the mascarpone mixture. Top with shaved white chocolate.
MAKES 6 AVERAGE OR 12 SMALL PORTIONS
REGION: Throughout Italy
Tiramisù is traditionally made with raw eggs, so my curiosity was piqued when in Le Tre Zucche, a Rome restaurant, my waitress, listing the desserts, mentioned tiramisù “for pregnant women,” explaining that it was made without the usual raw eggs or rum. It was offered in mini or large, and not being sure if I’d like it, I went with the small size. What arrived was an espresso cup with lush, cool mascarpone custard that contrasted wonderfully with the layer of warm espresso-moistened savoiardi at the bottom of the cup. One bite was all it took for me to be certain of two things: One, I deeply regretted having ordered the mini, and two, if necessary I would literally beg the chef to teach me how to make it so I could include it in this cookbook.
Not only is his tiramisù just as delicious as the traditional version, but his technique of whipping the eggs with hot sugar syrup means there are no raw eggs to worry about, and also the custard stays light and fluffy for up to 2 days in the fridge. This is a perfect make-ahead dessert that you can serve in mini portions in espresso cups, or normal-sized portions in dessert bowls or coffee cups.
meglio un uovo oggi
che una gallina domani.
BETTER AN EGG TODAY THAN A
CHICKEN TOMORROW. (A BIRD IN THE
HAND IS WORTH TWO IN THE BUSH.)
Egg yolks 5 large
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Mascarpone cheese 1 cup (8 ounces/225 grams)
Heavy cream ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters)
Savoiardi (crisp ladyfingers) 12 cookies
Freshly brewed hot espresso or coffee 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Rum (optional)
Unsweetened cocoa powder
Put the egg yolks in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on the highest setting until light yellow and fluffy, at least 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the sugar and ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters) water in a small saucepan until the syrup bubbles and reaches 250°F (120°C) on a candy thermometer. With the mixer still on its highest setting, slowly pour the hot syrup into the egg yolks and continue beating for 15 minutes. (It’s important to whisk them for this long so that the mixture stays fluffy when you add the next ingredients.) Add the mascarpone and cream and beat on medium speed just until combined, about 20 seconds. You can keep this custard, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Brew the espresso or coffee. Break 1 savoiardi into each espresso cup, or 2 into each coffee mug or dessert bowl. Pour the espresso over the savoiardi so they are fully moistened and, if you like, add a splash of rum. Top with a generous dollop or two of the mascarpone mixture. Dust with cocoa powder. Serve immediately.
NOTE: For a two-tone effect, dust half the surface of the tiramisù with cocoa powder and the other half with savoiardi crumbs.
