Our classic woollen shawl with a rolled collar works great over a jacket or thick sweater and is both smart and snug. It even has deep side pockets just where your hands fall, while the collar offers a touch of luxury. This is a very simple shawl to make. The heart of what you will learn with this project is the importance of thorough pressing. All the great sewing in the world will not lead to a great outcome – only meticulous pressing will.
If you are using a check wool for your main fabric, pick out a dominant color for your lining fabric.
1. Using the pattern sheet, cut out the garment pieces as listed below:
2. Snip out the notch marks and mark all the dots on both sides of the fabric pieces.
From the main fabric
Shawl Back: cut 1 on the fold
Shawl Front: cut 2
Shawl Collar Facing: cut 2
Neck Facing: cut 1 on the fold
Pocket: cut 2
From the lining fabric
Lining Back: cut 1 on the fold
Lining Front: cut 2
Pocket Lining: cut 2
From the fusible interfacing
Shawl Collar Facing: cut 2
Neck Facing: cut 1 on the fold
Pocket Interfacing: cut 2
1. First prepare both pockets. Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket below the notch (Fig 1). This will strengthen the top of the pocket.
Fig 1
2. Sew the top of the pocket to the top of the pocket lining leaving a gap for turning through to the right side later (Fig 2).
Fig 2
3. Fold over the pocket at the notches and sew all around the edge (Fig 3).
4. Trim the corners and notch the bottom curves (Fig 4). Turn through to the right side and slip stitch the opening closed. Press really well so that the pocket is very neat.
Fig 4
5. Pin the prepared pockets to the fronts as indicated by the pattern markings; edge stitch into place (Fig 5). If you stitch very very close to the edge, you can then press the pocket. If you steam the wool and stretch it a little, the pocket will cover the stitching. Now join the fronts together (in the same way as the interfacings in Fig 6). Press seam open.
Fig 5
1. Iron on the fusible interfacings to the wrong side of the neck and collar facings. Place the collar facings right sides together and sew along the back seam (Fig 6).
Fig 6
2. Sew the neck facing to the collar facing right sides together, referring to Figs 7a and 7b for two different views to help you when turning the corners. Sew along the facing shoulder seam and as you come to the dot reduce the stitch length for extra strength. Stop at the dot, raise the presser foot, lift the needle out of the fabric and, using the small pair of sharp scissors, snip right up to the dot. Put the needle back into the fabric and turn the corner; this will open up the snip to a “V.” Return to a normal stitch length once you have passed the corner. Repeat at the second corner, and once the stitching is complete, press the seams open really well. Put the completed facing to one side. Once the stitching is complete, trim the excess from the corners opposite the snipped “V”s. Press the seams open really well.
Fig 7a
Fig 7b
3. With right sides facing, sew the shawl front and shawl back together to make the main shawl (Fig 8), using the same technique for turning the corners as you used when sewing the neck facing to the collar facing in the previous step. Press all the seams open and trim the corners as before.
Fig 8
4. Now sew the completed facing to the main shawl, with right sides together (Fig 9). Press the seam open.
Fig 9
5. Trim the facing side of the seam down to 3/8 in/1 cm to reduce bulk (Fig 10).
Fig 10
1. Sew the lining front and lining back together, but leave a gap in one shoulder seam through which the finished shawl will be turned in step 2 (Fig 11). Press the seams open.
Fig 11
2. With right sides together, sew the lining to the facing and main shawl, stitching along the bottom edge too (Fig 12). Press all seams open. Trim corners, turn through to right side and slip stitch lining opening closed. Press well especially around all the edges. Stab stitch through center back neck seam and top of shoulder seam to hold collar in place.
Fig 12
