When I go out to eat, I usually do what most chefs do—order as many different dishes as I think I just might possibly be able to eat. This is in part because all chefs relish the experience of dining in another’s restaurant. For me, it is also for the thrill I feel when I indulge in a profusion of flavors and textures. Sometimes I savor just a bite or two and sometimes my empty plate leaves me wanting more, but I never regret my choices.
So that diners at MICHAEL MINA can enjoy this same experience, my first course trios are based on two variations of one main ingredient on each presentation. I offset them with techniques and seasonal accompaniments to create six different, but interrelated, dishes to complete the course. The interplay created by the complementary and contrasting ingredients and cooking techniques balances the entire plate with the progression of hot and cold variations, designed to be eaten from the front of the plate to the back. For example, the hot seared scallops with caviar, corn, and roasted beets have three corresponding chilled ceviches that echo the nearly identical flavor combinations. The same philosophy applies to the parallel portraits of soup and salad. The preparation of these different dishes is, without a doubt, labor intensive, even for a restaurant kitchen. For this reason, I have made sure that each dish can stand on its own when required. However, if you do decide to go the distance, I suggest that you keep the same set of trios that I have put together, as the flavor profiles have been designed to work together as a whole.
At home, just as in the restaurant, hors d’oeuvres or appetizers are your first chance to excite your guests and give them a hint of the meal to follow. It is important that all of the components of a meal have a corresponding relationship so that the intensity of the dining experience results from a perfect marriage. The first course should simply be the seduction.
SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH CORN GARNISH, YELLOW CORN PUDDING
SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH BEET GARNISH, SCARLET BEET BEURRE ROUGE
SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH LEMON, LEMON BEURRE BLANC WITH CAVIAR
MEATY SCALLOPS PERCHED ON CRISPY POTATO CAKES IS ONE OF THE BEST COMBINATIONS ON THE PLANET. I ADORE SCALLOPS BECAUSE THEIR TRANSLUCENT TEXTURE HOLDS UP TO A MULTITUDE OF COOKING METHODS. YOU CAN STEAM, POACH, GRILL, SAUTÉ, OR SIMPLY EAT THEM RAW, SASHIMI-STYLE. THEIR STRONG, SUPPLE FLAVOR STANDS UP BEAUTIFULLY TO OTHER STRONGLY FLAVORED ACCOMPANIMENTS. THE HOT SCALLOP PREPARATION REQUIRES VELVETY SAUCES, WHILE THE CHILLED CALLS FOR SOMETHING PUNGENT AND ACIDIC. THE SAVORY, SEARED SCALLOPS WITH THE RICH, BUTTERY SAUCE ARE FOLLOWED BY THE BRIGHT, REFRESHING CEVICHE, WHICH CLEANS THE PALATE AND GETS YOU READY FOR THE NEXT ROUND. TOGETHER, THIS TRINITY IS A NEAR-PERFECT DISH; IT EXEMPLIFIES THE BALANCE OF TEXTURE, FLAVOR, AND VISUAL APPEAL. IF CAVIAR, TRUFFLES, AND LOBSTER ARE OUT OF REACH, THE SCALLOPS ARE SIMPLE TO EXECUTE AND STILL WORTH TRYING.
PRAGER RIESLING ‘STEINRIEGEL’ FEDERSPIEL, WACHAU, AUSTRIA 2001
A rich wine is needed to balance the sweetness of the scallops and the high acidity of the dish. A dry Riesling can encompass all the flavors of the meal and give a different experience with every bite. A Sauvignon Blanc can also be served.
SERVES 4
| 12 | POTATO CAKES (PAGE 176) |
| 12 | LARGE DIVER SCALLOPS (ABOUT 1 POUND) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
TO PREPARE THE Potato Cakes: Follow the directions in the Caviar Parfait (page 176), up to the point of frying, except use a small 1 1/2-inch ring mold so the Potato Cakes are about the same size as the seared scallops.
LINE A PLATTER with a double layer of paper towels and set aside. Season the scallops generously with salt and pepper. Place a large sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the oil into the pan and when it just gets hazy, add 6 of the scallops. Sear the scallops for 1 minute, without moving them around, until the bottoms are nicely browned. Turn and sear the other side for 30 seconds. (The scallops should be medium-rare.) Transfer the scallops to the prepared platter.
COAT THE PAN with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and sear the remaining scallops. Transfer to the platter and cover to keep warm.
FRY THE POTATO Cakes as directed in the recipe on page 176.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
SCALLOP CEVICHE
| 4 | RAW DIVER SCALLOPS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP BLACK TRUFFLE VINEGAR (USE WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR FOR VARIATION 2, FRESH LEMON JUICE FOR VARIATION 3) |
| 2 | TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, FOR DRIZZLING |
GARNISH
| KERNELS FROM 1 EAR SWEET YELLOW CORN (ABOUT 1 CUP), BLANCHED | |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON BLACK TRUFFLE VINEGAR |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHITE TRUFFLE OIL |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
TO PREPARE THE ceviche: Using a very sharp thin-bladed knife, slice each scallop horizontally into 4 disks. Place the scallops in a nonreactive bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the vinegar and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.
TO PREPARE THE garnish: Combine the blanched corn, vinegar, olive oil, truffle oil, and chives in a mixing bowl. Season well with salt and pepper. Set aside for 5 minutes to let the flavors marry.
REMOVE THE CHILLED scallops from the vinegar and fan 4 slices on each of 4 small bowls or plates. Lightly season the scallops with salt and a little drizzle of olive oil. Garnish each plate with a generous tablespoon of the corn mixture.
YELLOW CORN PUDDING
This impressive and easy sauce, called a pudding because of its thickness, is also great on crab cakes, grilled shrimp, or as a dip for blanched asparagus.
MAKES 1 CUP
| 2 | EARS SWEET YELLOW CORN |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS TRUFFLE BUTTER (SEE SOURCES) KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
GARNISH
| 4 | SLICES FRESH BLACK TRUFFLE |
USING A SHARP knife, cut the kernels from the cob and put them through a vegetable juicer. (Alternatively, combine the corn and 1/4 cup water in a blender and purée until completely smooth.) Pass the corn juice through a fine-mesh strainer into a small saucepan, pushing firmly with a spatula to release the juice, and discard the solids.
PLACE THE CORN juice over low heat and cook, whisking constantly until the natural corn starch thickens the juice into a bright yellow sauce, about 5 minutes. Stir in the truffle butter and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm until ready to serve.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Pool about 2 tablespoons of the Corn Pudding in the center of 4 small plates. Set 3 Potato Cakes on the sauce and place a hot Seared Scallop on top of each. Garnish with sliced truffles. Serve with the chilled Scallop Ceviche with Corn Garnish.
It is a good idea to wear plastic gloves when working with beets to avoid staining your hands. When roasting beets, I line a sheet pan with rock salt to make a salt-bed. Not only does this impart a subtle flavor to the beets, but the crystals help insulate them so they cook more evenly; it also prevents burning on the bottom where they rest on the pan. Roast all the beets for the garnish and beurre rouge at once.
SCALLOP CEVICHE
| 4 | RAW DIVER SCALLOPS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR |
| 2 | TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, FOR DRIZZLING |
BEET GARNISH
| 1 | RED BABY BEET, SCRUBBED |
| 1 | YELLOW BABY BEET, SCRUBBED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
MAKE THE SCALLOP Ceviche as directed in the recipe, substituting the white balsamic vinegar for the truffle vinegar.
TO PREPARE THE beet garnish: Preheat the oven to 375°F.
RUB THE BEETS with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap each beet individually in aluminum foil and place on a baking pan. Roast the beets until a knife can pierce the beets without meeting any resistance, 30 to 40 minutes.
CAREFULLY UNWRAP THE beets and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, rub off the skins with paper towels. Quarter the beets and reserve each type separately so the red doesn’t bleed onto the yellow.
REMOVE THE CHILLED scallops from the vinegar and fan 4 slices on each of 4 small bowls or plates. Lightly season the scallops with salt and a little drizzle of olive oil. Garnish each plate with a wedge of red and yellow beet.
SCARLET BEET BEURRE ROUGE
MAKES 1 CUP
| 2 | RED BABY BEETS, ROASTED AND COOLED (AS ABOVE) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER BEURRE ROUGE (PAGE 220) | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY RED WINE, SUCH AS CABERNET SAUVIGNON |
| 1/4 | CUP RED WINE VINEGAR |
COARSELY CHOP THE roasted beets and place in a blender with 1 tablespoon of water. Purée until completely smooth.
FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS for Beurre Rouge on page 220, using the red wine and red wine vinegar. Add the beet purée to the shallot mixture and proceed as instructed.
GARNISH
| BEURRE MONTÉ (SEE PAGE 220) | |
| 4 | OUNCES COOKED LOBSTER MEAT, CUT INTO MEDALLIONS KOSHER SALT AND FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREPARE A BEURRE Monté (page 220) as directed in the recipe. Place the Beurre Monté in a small sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the lobster and heat for 1 to 2 minutes to warm through. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Pool 2 tablespoons of the Scarlet Beet Beurre Rouge in the center of 4 small plates. Set 3 Potato Cakes on the sauce and place a hot Seared Scallop on top of each. Garnish with the lobster mixture. Serve with the Scallop Ceviche with Beet Garnish.
SCALLOP CEVICHE
| 4 | RAW DIVER SCALLOPS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE |
| 2 | TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, FOR DRIZZLING |
GARNISH
| 1/2 | OUNCE CAVIAR, PREFERABLY OSETRA |
| 1 | TEASPOON BLANCHED LEMON ZEST OR MEYER LEMON CONFIT (SEE PAGE 59) |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
MAKE THE SCALLOP Ceviche as directed in the recipe, substituting the lemon juice for the truffle vinegar.
REMOVE THE CHILLED scallops from the lemon juice and fan 4 slices on each of 4 small bowls or plates. Lightly season the scallops with salt and a little drizzle of olive oil. Garnish each serving with a tiny bit of caviar (about 1/8 ounce on each), a few pieces of lemon zest, and a sprinkle of chives.
LEMON BEURRE BLANC WITH CAVIAR
MAKES 1 CUP
| BEURRE BLANC (PAGE 220) | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1/4 | CUP CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR |
| JUICE AND ZEST OF 1/2 LEMON |
GARNISH
| 1 1/2 | OUNCES CAVIAR, PREFERABLY OSETRA |
| 1 | TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
TO MAKE THE Lemon Beurre Blanc: Prepare the Beurre Blanc as directed in the recipe, using the white wine and champagne vinegar. Add the lemon juice and zest to the shallot mixture and proceed as instructed.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Mix the Lemon Beurre Blanc with 1/2 ounce of the caviar and the minced chives. Pool about 2 tablespoons of the sauce in the center of 4 small plates. Set 3 Potato Cakes on the sauce and place a hot Seared Scallop on top of each. Garnish with the remaining caviar. Serve with the Scallop Ceviche with Caviar.
MARINATED ENGLISH PEA SALAD, CREAMY LEMON VINAIGRETTE
CHICKPEA SALAD, CREAMY SAFFRON VINAIGRETTE
FAVA BEAN SALAD, CREAMY TOMATO-LIME VINAIGRETTE
I DRAW INSPIRATION FROM MY ETHNIC ROOTS AND REFINE THE IDEAS BY UTILIZING MY FORMAL FRENCH TRAINING AND EXPERIENCE. THE BIRTH OF THIS DISH STEMS FROM THE FALAFEL; IT IS GENERALLY ACCEPTED THAT THE FALAFEL ORIGINATED AS STREET FOOD IN EGYPT, WHERE THESE HEAVILY SPICED FRIED FRITTERS HAVE BECOME A NATIONAL DISH. WHEN I WAS GROWING UP, MY MOM WOULD MAKE HOMEMADE FALAFEL FOR MY BROTHER AND ME AS AN AFTER-SCHOOL SNACK, AND THE MEMORY HOLDS DEEP MEANING FOR ME. THE EGYPTIAN VARIATION USES EXCLUSIVELY FAVA BEANS, WHILE OTHER MIDDLE EASTERN COUNTRIES IN CORPORATE CHICKPEAS. I PUT MY OWN TWIST ON MY FAMILY’S TRADITIONAL RECIPE BY GRINDING ENGLISH PEAS INTO THE FAVA MIXTURE. TAHINI, A THICK PASTE MADE OF GROUND SESAME SEEDS, IS CLASSICALLY SERVED WITH FALAFEL. FROM THAT STARTING POINT, I GOT THE NOTION TO BASE THE VINAIGRETTES ON THE SMOOTH NUTTINESS OF TAHINI. TO FURTHER INTENSIFY THE FLAVOR AND KEEP IT INTERESTING, I ADDED BLACK SESAME SEEDS TO THE CRAB TEMPURA BATTER.
I AM A FIRM BELIEVER IN COOKING SEASONALLY AND EATING WHAT IS GOOD WHEN IT IS GOOD. SWEET SOFT-SHELL CRABS AND EARTHY FAVA BEANS ARE A WELCOME SIGN OF SPRING AND THEIR FLAVORS COMPLEMENT ONE ANOTHER ESPECIALLY WELL. IT IS IMPORTANT TO PURCHASE THE SOFT-SHELL CRABS LIVE AND USE THEM SHORTLY AFTER CLEANING.
LEITZ RIESLING ‘MAGDALENENKREUZ’ SPATLESE, RHEINGAU, GERMANY 2003
Fried fish and German Riesling are a perfect pairing. Once you add spicy Asian flavors the combination gets better. The sweetness in the wine will balance the sweet and sour flavors of the vinaigrettes. Any wine you serve must also be low in alcohol so the spice is not amplified.
SERVES 4
| 4 | LIVE SOFT-SHELL CRABS, PRIME SIZE (ABOUT 3 OUNCES EACH) |
| APPROXIMATELY 1 GALLON CANOLA OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING | |
| 1 3/4 | CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR |
| 3/4 | CUP CORNSTARCH |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS BAKING POWDER |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SUGAR |
| 1 1/2 | TEASPOONS KOSHER SALT, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR SEASONING |
| 1 1/2 | TABLESPOONS BLACK SESAME SEEDS |
| 1 1/2 | TABLESPOONS WHITE SESAME SEEDS |
| 2 1/2 | TO 3 CUPS ICE WATER |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
TO CLEAN THE crabs: Hold the crab from the back end and, using kitchen shears, quickly cut off about 1/4 inch from the front of the crab, just behind the eyes and mouth. Squeeze gently to clean out the contents. Unfold the pointed sides of the top shell and remove the feathery gills. Turn the crab over and cut off the bottom tail flap, known as the apron. Repeat with the remaining crabs. Place the crabs in a resealable plastic bag and transfer to the refrigerator.
FILL A LARGE heavy pot or deep fryer three-quarters of the way with oil and heat to 360°F on a frying thermometer. While the oil is heating up, make the tempura batter.
MIX THE FLOUR, cornstarch, baking powder, sugar, salt, and sesame seeds in a large bowl. Whisk in 2 cups of the ice water until a pancake batter consistency is achieved and there are few lumps. Add more water if needed. Transfer the batter to the refrigerator if you are going to hold it longer than 10 minutes; it is important that it stay cold.
LINE A PLATE with a double layer of paper towels and set aside. Season the crabs well on all sides with salt and pepper. Dip each crab into the batter a couple of times to coat it completely, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Holding the crabs by the leg, carefully and gently lower them into the hot oil 2 at a time, so as not to overcrowd the pot. The crabs should sort of fizz when they hit the hot oil and will puff up fairly quickly. Fry the crabs for 3 minutes, turning with tongs or chopsticks so they cook evenly. When the coating is light golden brown and crisp, carefully remove the crabs to the prepared plate. While they are still hot, lightly season with salt. Cut the fried soft-shell crabs in half through the center of the body before serving.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
MAKES 12 FALAFEL
| 2 | CUPS SHELLED, BLANCHED, AND PEELED FRESH FAVA BEANS |
| 1/2 | CUP SHELLED AND BLANCHED ENGLISH PEAS |
| 1/4 | CUP FINELY CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY LEAVES |
| 1/4 | CUP FINELY CHOPPED FRESH DILL SPRIGS |
| 1/4 | CUP FINELY CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES |
| 3 | SCALLIONS, GREEN PARTS ONLY, FINELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON GROUND CUMIN, TOASTED |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON GROUND CORIANDER, TOASTED |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | POUND DUNGENESS CRABMEAT, PICKED THROUGH FOR SHELLS AND CARTILAGE, LARGE PIECES OF LEG MEAT RESERVED FOR GARNISH |
| 1/4 | CUP WONDRA FLOUR |
| CANOLA OIL, FOR FRYING | |
| BEURRE MONTÉ (PAGE 220) |
TOSS THE FAVA beans, peas, parsley, dill, cilantro, scallions, and garlic together in a large bowl. Place the mixture in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse until coarsely ground, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Stir in the cumin, coriander, and red pepper flakes and season generously with salt and pepper. Using a spatula, fold the crabmeat into the falafel mixture to incorporate. (May be made a day ahead and stored covered and refrigerated.)
WITH MOISTENED HANDS, form the falafel mixture into 12 patties about 2 inches in diameter. You will need 2 falafel per person; freeze the remaining 4 for another use. Refrigerate the falafel until ready to use.
SPREAD THE WONDRA flour out on a platter. Dredge the falafel to lightly cover on both sides, and shake off the excess.
HEAT 1/4 INCH of oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Gently lay the falafel in the hot oil, taking care not to crowd the pan (you may need to do this in batches). Fry until nicely browned, turning often, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels. Season the falafel lightly with salt.
TO PREPARE THE crabmeat garnish: Prepare a beurre monté (page 220). Place the beurre monté in a small sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the reserved crabmeat and heat for 1 to 2 minutes to warm through. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
MARINATED ENGLISH PEA SALAD
| 1 | CUP SHELLED AND BLANCHED ENGLISH PEAS |
| 1 | LEMON, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON FINELY GRATED LEMON ZEST |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PREFERABLY LEMON-INFUSED |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN, TOASTED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE PEAS, lemon segments, lemon zest, oil, and cumin together in a small bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Reserve at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to marry.
CREAMY LEMON VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | TABLESPOON TAHINI |
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH LEMON JUICE |
| 3/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 1 1/2 | TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN, TOASTED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE TAHINI, yolk, and lemon juice in a blender, processing until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. The dressing will be fairly thick and creamy. Stir in the cumin and season well with salt and pepper.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Pool a tablespoon of the Lemon Vinaigrette on opposite ends of each of 4 rectangular plates. Drag another tablespoon of vinaigrette diagonally across the center of each plate to make a stripe. (Any leftover vinaigrette can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.)
SET A CRAB Falafel on each vinaigrette pool and place a piece of crabmeat garnish on top. Divide the Pea Salad among the plates, mounding it in the center stripe of vinaigrette. Place a soft-shell half on either side of the salad, standing them up on the cut side.
CHICKPEA SALAD
Fresh chickpeas—also known as garbanzo beans—are a beautiful light-green hue and have started to pop up from early May to September at farmers’ markets and specialty stores across the country. If you cannot find fresh chickpeas, it is perfectly fine to substitute dried. (Soak the dried chickpeas in a large bowl covered with cool water to cover by 2 inches in the refrigerator for at least 18 hours or up to 24; the chickpeas will rehydrate and swell to triple their original size. Drain and rinse thoroughly in a colander before using.)
| 5 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 2 | SHALLOTS, SLICED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | CUP FRESH CHICKPEAS, PICKED THROUGH AND RINSED |
| 1 1/2 | CUPS CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR SEASONING |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| PINCH OF RED PEPPER FLAKES | |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 4 | CLOVES GARLIC, HALVED LENGTHWISE |
| PINCH OF SAFFRON |
MAKE A SACHET/BOUQUET garni by placing the thyme, shallots, garlic, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth and tying closed with kitchen string. Toss the bouquet garni into a large saucepan.
ADD THE CHICKPEAS and stock and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes or until the beans are tender, skimming foam off the top if necessary. When the beans are cooked through and tender, season with the 1/2 teaspoon salt.
DRAIN THE CHICKPEAS and place in a large bowl. While they are still warm, add the olive oil and toss to coat. Season with the red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
IN THE MEANTIME, combine the halved garlic, saffron, and a pinch of salt in a separate saucepan. Add 1 cup of water and place over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until the garlic is soft and takes on the vibrant yellow color of the saffron, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic and let cool. Gently stir the garlic into the chickpea mixture, taking care not to mash it.
CREAMY SAFFRON VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 CUP
| PINCH OF SAFFRON | |
| 3/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR |
| 1 | TABLESPOON TAHINI |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE SAFFRON with a tablespoon of hot water in a small bowl. Steep for 1 minute to bleed the color out.
HEAT 2 TABLESPOONS of the oil in a small sauté pan over low heat. Add the garlic and sauté for a minute or two until lightly toasted. Do not allow it to burn. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
COMBINE THE YOLK, vinegar, tahini, and saffron, along with its water, in a blender and purée until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the remaining oil. The dressing will be fairly thick and creamy. Add the sautéed garlic and oil and blend. Season well with salt and pepper.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Pool a tablespoon of the Saffron Vinaigrette on opposite ends of each of 4 rectangular plates. Drag another tablespoon of vinaigrette diagonally across the center of each plate to make a stripe. (Any leftover vinaigrette can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.)
SET A CRAB Falafel on each vinaigrette pool and place a piece of the crabmeat garnish on top. Divide the Chickpea Salad among the plates, mounding it in the center of the vinaigrette. Place a soft-shell half on either side of the salad, standing them up on the cut side.
FAVA BEAN SALAD
| 8 | SWEET 100 TOMATOES, HALVED LENGTHWISE |
| 1 | LIME, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1 | CUP SHELLED, BLANCHED, AND PEELED FRESH FAVA BEANS |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| 1 | TEASPOON FINELY GRATED LIME ZEST |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
MIX THE TOMATOES, lime segments, fava beans, oil, and lime zest together in a small bowl. Season well with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to marry.
CREAMY TOMATO-LIME VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 1/4 CUPS
| 6 | SUN-DRIED TOMATOES IN OIL, DRAINED AND CHOPPED |
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 6 | TABLESPOONS TOMATO WATER (PAGE 224) |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH LIME JUICE |
| 1 | TABLESPOON TAHINI |
| 3/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE SUN-DRIED tomatoes, yolk, tomato water, lime juice, and tahini in a blender and purée until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil to emulsify. The dressing will be fairly thick and creamy. Taste and season well with salt and pepper.
TO SERVE: ON rectangular plates, pool a tablespoon of the Tomato-Lime Vinaigrette on opposite ends of each plate. Drag another tablespoon of vinaigrette diagonally across the center of the plates to make a stripe. (Any leftover vinaigrette can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.)
SET A CRAB Falafel on each vinaigrette pool and place a piece of the crabmeat garnish on top. Divide the Fava Bean Salad among the plates, mounding it in the center stripe of vinaigrette. Place a soft-shell half on either side of the salad, standing them up on the cut side.
ROASTED PLUMS, PLUM GASTRIQUE, PLUM CONSOMMÉ, PLUM GELÉE, GINGER SALT
ROASTED PINEAPPLE, PINEAPPLE GASTRIQUE, PINEAPPLE CONSOMMÉ, PINEAPPLE GELÉE, VANILLA SALT
RHUBARB COMPOTE, RHUBARB GASTRIQUE, RHUBARB CONSOMMÉ, RHUBARB GELÉE, LIME SALT
FOIE GRAS IS THE ULTIMATE DELICACY, FULL OF LUXURY AND ROMANCE. CHEFS HAVE LONG BEEN ARDENT FANS OF ITS VERSATILITY, SENSUAL FLAVOR, AND CREAMY TEXTURE, AND THE LURING PROMISE OF INDULGENCE INVARIABLY SEDUCES DINERS TO EXCESS. COOKING FOIE GRAS REQUIRES SOME FINESSE AND VIGILANCE, AS IT IS COMPOSED ALMOST ENTIRELY OF FAT. ITS ETHEREAL TEXTURE IS AS MELTINGLY SOFT AS A WARM PIECE OF BUTTER. TO BALANCE IT, A BRACING ACCOMPANIMENT IS NEEDED TO CUT ITS DENSE RICHNESS. PLUM, PINEAPPLE, AND RHUBARB ARE TART FRUITS WITH UNDERLYING SWEETNESS, WHICH PROVIDE THE PERFECT COUNTERPOINT FOR BOTH HOT AND COLD FOIE GRAS VARIATIONS. EITHER ONE OF THESE FOIE GRAS PREPARATIONS CAN STAND ON ITS OWN AND IS A LOVELY WAY TO BEGIN A SPECIAL MEAL. TORCHON IS A CLASSIC FRENCH RECIPE IN WHICH A LOBE OF FOIE GRAS IS WRAPPED IN CHEESECLOTH (TORCHON MEANS “DISHTOWEL” IN FRENCH) AND THEN QUICKLY POACHED TO GENTLY COOK IT. MAKING THE TORCHON IS A TWO-DAY PROCESS. SO PLAN AHEAD. DEVEINING AND CLEANING THE LIVER TO REMOVE ANY IMPURITIES ARE OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE. YOU WILL NEED KITCHEN TWINE AND CHEESECLOTH TO FORM THE TORCHON. TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, SERVE THE TORCHON WITH YOUR FAVORITE FRUIT JAM AND TOAST POINTS. IN PLACE OF THE TORCHON, SUBSTITUTE A FOIE GRAS TERRINE OR PÂTÉ, WHICH ARE AVAILABLE AT GOURMET MARKETS.
DOMAINE DES BAUMARD QUARTS DE CHAUME, LOIRE, FRANCE 2002
A late harvest Chenin Blanc will uphold the fresh fruit flavors and balance the sweetness. It is also very important to balance the acidity (that cuts through the fat in the foie gras). Any sweet wine works as long as it has high sugar content and lots of acidity.
SERVES 4
| 1 | GRADE A DUCK FOIE GRAS (ABOUT 1 1/4 POUNDS) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS KOSHER SALT |
| 2 | TEASPOONS SALTPETER (SEE NOTE) |
| 2 | TEASPOONS SUGAR |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON GROUND WHITE PEPPER |
BRING THE FOIE gras to room temperature (in its Cryovac bag), 1 to 2 hours. Gently remove the foie gras from the package and carefully separate the two lobes with your hands; it should feel like soft clay. Pull out the connective tissue between the lobes and rinse the foie gras under cold water. Reserve the small lobe for the hot foie gras variation or for another use. To store, wrap the lobe in parchment paper and then tightly in plastic wrap. May be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month.
COVER A CUTTING board with a piece of plastic wrap. Place the large lobe on the plastic, rounded side down. Using a butter knife, neatly make an incision in the shape of a “y” on the underside of the lobe. Spread the foie gras open to expose the main vein. Scrape carefully to pull the vein out, using fish tweezers if you have them to avoid tearing. Don’t be afraid to make more cuts to open up the lobe as needed or to mash the flesh in search of veins. It is important that anything red be removed. Spread the foie gras into a uniform piece of even thickness, about 1/2 inch, without any holes. It should be butter-soft at this point.
TO MAKE THE cure, combine the salt, saltpeter, sugar, and white pepper in a small bowl. Liberally sprinkle the surface of the foie gras with half of the curing mixture. Place a piece of plastic wrap on top and flip the foie gras over. Lift the plastic wrap and season the bottom of the foie gras with the remaining cure mix. Again, flip the foie gras back over and roll it up tightly in the plastic wrap. Refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.
CUT A 2-FOOT-LONG piece of cheesecloth and fold it in half, making a doubled 1-foot piece. Remove the large lobe of foie gras from the refrigerator. Carefully cut it in half lengthwise and lay the pieces end to end across the cheesecloth. Use your fingers to press the foie gras into a log approximately 1 inch wide. Roll very tightly into a cylinder, keeping tension on the cheesecloth in order to ensure a compact roll. Tightly twist together the ends of the cheesecloth, and tie them securely with kitchen twine. Refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes so that the foie gras is not too soft to cook properly.
FILL A BAKING pan large enough to fit the torchon halfway with water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Have an equally large ice bath set up on the side. Place the torchon in the simmering water and hold it down with tongs or a spoon to keep it submerged. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until fat begins to seep out of the cheesecloth and the torchon is soft throughout. Immediately transfer to the ice bath. Let the torchon chill for at least 5 minutes to ensure that it has cooled completely; it should be firm to the touch.
REMOVE THE TORCHON from the ice bath and hold by one end. Squeeze to force the foie gras to one end, reforming the tight tube shape with no air pockets. When done properly and with enough pressure, some of it will seep out of the cheesecloth. Twist the end of the cheesecloth to ensure that the mixture is compact, and tie as close to the foie gras as possible. Put the torchon on a plate and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. May be refrigerated up to 3 days or frozen for up to a week.
WORKING WITH A sharp knife that has been dipped in hot water, cut the torchon into 1/4-inch medallions. Use a 1-inch cookie cutter or ring to punch out the foie gras slices from the cheesecloth. If not serving immediately, place the medallions on a plate, cover, and put in the refrigerator to stay chilled.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
Note: Saltpeter
Saltpeter, also referred to as pink curing salt or sel rose, is used in many types of sausage curing; it works particularly well in the foie gras torchon. The cotton candy–colored salt contains a small amount of sodium nitrite which reacts with the liver to form a more stable protein complex, making it especially resistant to oxidizing. This helps maintain the rosy tinge of the foie gras.
| 4 | FOIE GRAS MEDALLIONS (ABOUT 3 OUNCES EACH) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP MICRO GREENS, FOR GARNISH |
| 4 | SLICES BRIOCHE, TOASTED, FOR SERVING (PAGE 144 OR STORE-BOUGHT) |
SCORE THE TOP of each medallion in a diamond pattern and season generously on all sides with salt and pepper.
HEAT A SAUTÉ pan over medium-high heat. Lay the medallions in the pan, scored side down. Sear for 30 seconds on each side, until golden brown. The seared foie gras should have no resistance when pressed. Transfer to a plate.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
MAKES 3/4 CUP
| 4 | OUNCES GRADE A OR B DUCK FOIE GRAS |
| 1/4 | CUP PLUS 1/2 TABLESPOON WATER |
| 1/2 | CUP SUGAR |
| 6 | TABLESPOONS BALSAMIC VINEGAR |
COARSELY CHOP THE foie gras and put it in a saucepan with the 1/4 cup water. Place over medium heat and cook until the duck fat has completely melted and only little rubbery pieces of foie gras remain. Strain the duck fat into a plastic container and transfer to the refrigerator. Discard the solids. The rendered fat will rise to the top and solidify as it cools. Discard the water and reserve the rendered fat. You should have 1/4 cup.
COMBINE THE FOIE gras fat with the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of water and the sugar in a small saucepan (it should look like wet sand) over medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until the sugar is bubbling and the mixture looks like taffy, about 5 minutes.
WHISK IN THE balsamic vinegar (the sauce will bubble up). Simmer until reduced by half, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
FOR THE HOT VARIATION: ROASTED PLUMS
| 1/4 | CUP SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 1 | -INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, THINLY SLICED |
| 4 | PLUMS, HALVED AND PITTED (PREFERABLY PLUOT OR ELEPHANT HEART) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 350°F.
COMBINE THE SIMPLE Syrup and ginger in a baking dish. Add the plums, cut side down, and roast until they are very soft, about 15 minutes. Let cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, carefully peel off the skin. Cover to keep warm.
PLUM GASTRIQUE
| 2 | PLUMS, PITTED AND CHOPPED (PREFERABLY PLUOT OR ELEPHANT HEART) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FOIE GRAS GASTRIQUE BASE (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
COMBINE THE PLUMS and the Gastrique Base in a small saucepan over low heat. Using a wooden spoon, smash the plums to release the flavor and color. Simmer until thick, about 10 minutes.
FOR THE COLD VARIATION: PLUM CONSOMMÉ
| 5 | PLUMS, HALVED AND PITTED (PREFERABLY PLUOT OR ELEPHANT HEART) |
| 2 | SLICES FRESH GINGER, ABOUT 1/4 INCH THICK |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 1/2 | CUPS WATER |
| 6 | TABLESPOONS SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS PLUM WINE |
| PINCH OF KOSHER SALT |
COMBINE THE PLUMS, ginger, shallot, water, Simple Syrup, plum wine, and salt in a pan over low heat. Stir and press the plums lightly with a spoon to release the juices. Cook for about 15 minutes. Do not let the mixture bubble or it will turn cloudy. Remove from the heat and let the plums steep until cool, about 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a coffee filter into another bowl; you should have at least 1 cup. You need 3/4 cup for the Plum Gelée and the remaining 1/4 cup for serving.
PLUM GELÉE
| 4 | SHEETS GELATIN OR 1 (1/4-OUNCE) ENVELOPE POWDERED GELATIN |
| 3/4 | CUP PLUM CONSOMMÉ |
SOAK THE GELATIN sheets in cool water for 5 minutes to soften, then remove and squeeze out the excess water (if using powdered gelatin, soak the gelatin in 3 tablespoons cool water for 2 minutes).
PLACE THE CONSOMMÉ in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Add the bloomed gelatin, and whisk to combine. Pour the liquid into a small container, so it is about 1/4 inch deep. Chill until completely set. Once firm, cut the gelée into 1/4-inch cubes.
GINGER SALT
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED CANDIED GINGER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON PINK HAWAIIAN SALT |
MIX THE CANDIED ginger and salt together until well combined.
GARNISH
| 2 | TABLESPOONS DICED FRESH PLUM |
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: For the chilled presentation, lay several cubes of the Plum Gelée on each of 4 small dishes to create a platform for the Torchon. Set 3 slices of Torchon on top of the gelée, season lightly with the Ginger Salt and garnish with diced plums. Spoon a tablespoon of the Plum Consommé around the bottom of each dish.
FOR THE HOT presentation, divide the Roasted Plum halves among 4 plates. Top each with a Seared Foie Gras medallion. Drizzle about 1 1/2 tablespoons of Plum Gastrique over and around the plate. Garnish with micro greens and serve with toasted brioche.
ROASTED PINEAPPLE
| 2 | CUPS PINEAPPLE JUICE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 1/2 | VANILLA BEAN, SCRAPED |
| 1/4 | PINEAPPLE (PREFERABLY MAUI GOLD), PEELED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F.
COMBINE THE PINEAPPLE juice, Simple Syrup, and vanilla seeds in a baking dish, mixing with a fork to evenly distribute. Add the pineapple and season with salt and pepper. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and transfer to the oven. Roast until tender, about 30 to 35 minutes. Remove the pineapple from the liquid and let it cool a bit, then cut crosswise into slices. Pour the liquid into a small saucepan and simmer over medium heat until reduced slightly, about 3 minutes. Set the pineapple and the reduced liquid aside for the gastrique.
PINEAPPLE GASTRIQUE
| 1/4 | CUP REDUCED PINEAPPLE COOKING LIQUID |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FOIE GRAS GASTRIQUE BASE (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
COMBINE THE PINEAPPLE liquid and the Gastrique Base in a small saucepan over low heat. Simmer for 5 minutes until thick.
PINEAPPLE CONSOMMÉ
| 1 | CUP CHOPPED FRESH PINEAPPLE (PREFERABLY MAUI GOLD) |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 | CUP PINEAPPLE JUICE |
| 3 | TABLESPOONS SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 1/2 | CUP WATER |
| 1/2 | VANILLA BEAN, SCRAPED |
| PINCH OF KOSHER SALT |
COMBINE THE PINEAPPLE, shallot, pineapple juice, Simple Syrup, water, vanilla bean, and salt in a saucepan over low heat. Stir and press the pineapple lightly with a spoon to release the juices. Cook for about 15 minutes. Do not let the mixture bubble or it will turn cloudy. Remove from the heat and let the pineapple steep until cool, about 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a coffee filter into a bowl; you should have at least 1 cup. You will need 3/4 cup for the Pineapple Gelée and the remaining 1/4 cup for serving.
PINEAPPLE GELÉE
| 3 | SHEETS GELATIN OR 1 (1/4-OUNCE) ENVELOPE POWDERED GELATIN |
| 3/4 | CUP PINEAPPLE CONSOMMÉ |
SOAK THE GELATIN sheets in cool water for 5 minutes to soften, then remove and squeeze out the excess water (if using powdered gelatin, soak the gelatin in 3 tablespoons cool water for 2 minutes).
PLACE THE PINEAPPLE Consommé in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Add the bloomed gelatin, and whisk to combine. Pour the liquid into a small container, so it is about 1/4 inch deep. Chill until completely set. Once firm, cut the gelée into 1/4-inch cubes.
VANILLA SALT
| 1/4 | VANILLA BEAN, SCRAPED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON GRAY FLEUR DE SEL |
MIX THE VANILLA bean and salt together until well combined.
GARNISH
| 2 | TABLESPOONS DICED FRESH PINEAPPLE (PREFERABLY MAUI GOLD) |
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: For the chilled presentation, lay several cubes of the Pineapple Gelée on each of 4 small dishes to create a platform for the Torchon. Set 3 slices of Torchon on top of the gelée, season lightly with the Vanilla Salt and garnish with diced pineapple. Spoon a tablespoon of the Pineapple Consommé around the bottom of each dish.
FOR THE HOT presentation, divide the Roasted Pineapple among 4 plates. Top each with a Seared Foie Gras medallion. Drizzle about 1 1/2 tablespoons of Pineapple Gastrique over and around the plate. Garnish with micro greens and serve with toasted brioche.
RHUBARB COMPOTE
| 6 | TABLESPOONS FRESH LIME JUICE |
| 1/4 | CUP SUGAR |
| 1 | SHALLOT, MINCED |
| 1/2 | RHUBARB STALK, SLICED (ABOUT 1/2 CUP) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS HONEY |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS GRENADINE |
| PINCH OF KOSHER SALT |
COMBINE THE LIME juice and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook until the sugar begins to melt and bubble, about 2 minutes. Stir in the shallot, rhubarb, honey, and grenadine. Lightly season with salt and cook until the rhubarb is just tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rhubarb to a side plate to cool. Continue to simmer the rhubarb cooking liquid until reduced slightly. Reserve the liquid for the Rhubarb Gastrique.
RHUBARB GASTRIQUE
| 1/4 | CUP REDUCED RHUBARB COOKING LIQUID |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FOIE GRAS GASTRIQUE BASE (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
COMBINE THE RHUBARB liquid and Gastrique Base in a small saucepan over low heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, until thick.
RHUBARB CONSOMMÉ
| 4 | STRAWBERRIES, QUARTERED |
| 1 | RHUBARB STALK, SLICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON FINELY GRATED LIME ZEST |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 1/2 | CUPS WATER |
| 1/4 | CUP SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS WHITE PORT |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS GRENADINE |
| PINCH OF KOSHER SALT |
COMBINE THE STRAWBERRIES, rhubarb, shallot, lime zest, peppercorns, water, Simple Syrup, port, grenadine, and salt in a pan over low heat. Stir and press the strawberries lightly with a spoon to release the juices. Cook for about 15 minutes. Do not let the mixture bubble or it will turn cloudy. Remove from the heat and let the rhubarb steep until cool, about 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a coffee filter into a bowl; you should have at least 1 cup. You will need 3/4 cup for the Rhubarb Gelée and the remaining 1/4 cup for serving.
RHUBARB GELÉE
| 3 | SHEETS GELATIN OR 1 (1/4-OUNCE) ENVELOPE POWDERED GELATIN |
| 1 | CUP RHUBARB CONSOMMÉ |
SOAK THE GELATIN sheets in cool water for 5 minutes to soften, then remove and squeeze out the excess water (if using powdered gelatin, soak the gelatin in 3 tablespoons cool water for 2 minutes).
PLACE THE RHUBARB Consommé in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Add the bloomed gelatin, and whisk to combine. Pour the liquid into a small container, so it is about 1/4 inch deep. Chill until completely set. Once firm, cut the gelée into 1/4-inch cubes.
LIME SALT
| 1 | TEASPOON FINELY GRATED LIME ZEST |
| 1 | TABLESPOON MALDON SEA SALT |
MIX THE LIME zest and salt together until well combined.
RHUBARB GARNISH
| 2 | TABLESPOONS JULIENNED RHUBARB |
| 1 | TABLESPOON SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 1 | TEASPOON LIME JUICE |
MACERATE THE RHUBARB in the Simple Syrup and lime juice for at least 15 minutes.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: For the chilled presentation, lay several cubes of the Rhubarb Gelée on each of 4 small dishes to create a platform for the Torchon. Set 3 slices of Torchon on top of the gelée, season lightly with the Lime Salt and Rhubarb Garnish. Spoon a tablespoon of the Rhubarb Consommé around the bottom of each dish.
FOR THE HOT presentation, divide the Rhubarb Compote among 4 plates. Top each with a Seared Foie Gras medallion. Drizzle about 1 1/2 tablespoons of Rhubarb Gastrique over and around the plate. Garnish with micro greens and serve with toasted brioche.
WILD MUSHROOM SOUP, ROASTED FENNEL AND CHANTERELLE SALAD, LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE
CIOPPINO, HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD, AVOCADO MOUSSE
THAI COCONUT AND WHITE CORN SOUP, GRILLED CORN AND COCONUT SALAD, RED PEPPER CREAM
A SIMPLE SOUP AND SALAD COMBO INSTANTLY BECOMES ELEGANT BY INVITING SUCCULENT LOBSTER TO THE PARTY. THE STRAIGHTFORWARD THEME OF COOL REFRESHING SALADS AND HOT HEARTY SOUPS TAKES ON DIFFERENT GUISES IN THIS TRIO. THE CREAMY, COMFORTING MUSHROOM SOUP MARRIES MUSKY MUSHROOMS WITH THE LICORICE ESSENCE OF FENNEL FOR A CLASSIC EUROPEAN PAIRING. CIOPPINO IS A BELOVED TOMATO-LACED FISH SOUP THAT ORIGINATED IN THE NORTH BEACH SECTION OF SAN FRANCISCO AND IS A FAVORITE AT MY RESTAURANT NOBHILL. THE THAI-INSPIRED CORNAND COCONUT SOUP IS REDOLENT OF EXOTIC AROMATICS SUCH AS GALANGAL AND LEMONGRASS. THESE SOUL-SATISFYING SOUPS CAN BE MADE A DAY AHEAD, AS THE FLAVORS WILL DEEPEN WITH TIME. ANY ONE OF THE SOUP AND SALAD VARIATIONS CAN STAND SECURELY ON ITS OWN BUT IF YOU’RE ENTERTAINING, SERVE THE TRIO TOGETHER FAMILY STYLE TO SAMPLE A GATHERING OF TASTES THAT IS BOTH SOPHISTICATED AND CASUAL.
CRAGGY RANGE SAUVIGNON BLANC ‘TE MUNA,’ MARTINBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND 2004
To pair one wine with all these soups may seem like a challenge, but it is not. The core flavor is lobster and vegetables. A ripe and round Sauvignon Blanc will bring out the complexity in each component. The secret to a successful pairing is to match the acidity, and this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has the ripeness and the herbaceousness to balance the dishes.
SERVES 4
| 2 | (1 1/4-POUND) COOKED LOBSTERS |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
TO COOK THE lobsters: Follow the procedure as directed in the Maine Lobster Potpie (page 189), reserving the body for the Lobster Stock. Split the lobster tails in half lengthwise, keeping them in the shell, and set aside for the salad. Chop the claw and knuckle meat into large pieces and reserve for the soup. You should have about 1 cup.
PREHEAT THE BROILER or preheat and oil a grill.
RUB THE LOBSTER tails with the oil and season well with salt and pepper. Place them on a baking sheet, flesh side up, and broil for about 5 minutes, until the meat is slightly charred on the edges. Alternatively, place the lobster tails flesh side down on an outdoor grill and grill for 3 minutes. Turn the lobster tails over, using tongs, and cook the shell side for 2 minutes.
IMMEDIATELY TRANSFER THE lobster tails to the refrigerator or freezer to stop the cooking process. Once the tails are cool, pull the meat from the shell. Cover and chill until ready to use for the salad.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
WILD MUSHROOM SOUP
MAKES 2 QUARTS
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | POUND CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS, WIPED OF GRIT AND CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | POUND CREMINI MUSHROOMS, WIPED OF GRIT AND CHOPPED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 2 | STALKS CELERY, CHOPPED |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, PEELED AND CHOPPED |
| 1 | LEEK, WHITE AND LIGHT GREEN PARTS ONLY, WELL RINSED AND CHOPPED |
| 1 | BULB FENNEL, HALVED AND CHOPPED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 10 | SPRIGS FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 4 | SPRIGS TARRAGON |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON FENNEL SEEDS |
| 1 | CUP DRY SHERRY |
| 1 1/2 | QUARTS LOBSTER STOCK (PAGE 223) |
| 1 | CUP HEAVY CREAM |
| 1 | CUP CLAW AND KNUCKLE LOBSTER MEAT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PREFERABLY LEMON-INFUSED, FOR SERVING |
| 1 | TEASPOON FENNEL POLLEN (OPTIONAL), FOR GARNISH |
| 1/4 | CUP LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
HEAT A LARGE saucepan over medium heat and coat with the oil. Once the oil gets hazy, add the mushrooms, garlic, celery, onion, leek, and fennel. Cook, stirring constantly for 10 to 15 minutes, until the vegetable mixture caramelizes and the flavors meld. Season with salt and pepper.
ADD THE PARSLEY, tarragon, bay leaves, peppercorns, and fennel seeds and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.
ADD THE SHERRY and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Simmer until the liquid is almost totally evaporated, about 3 minutes.
ADD THE LOBSTER Stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes.
STIR IN THE cream and cook until slightly thickened and reduced, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a standard or immersion blender, purée until the soup is smooth and thick.
CAREFULLY POUR THE soup through a strainer into a clean saucepan and return to medium heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and fold in the lobster meat. Cook to heat through, about 5 minutes.
ROASTED FENNEL AND CHANTERELLE SALAD
| 1 | SHALLOT, MINCED |
| JUICE AND FINELY GRATED ZEST OF 1 LEMON | |
| 1 | BULB FENNEL, TRIMMED AND HALVED, FRONDS RESERVED |
| 1/2 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | POUND CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS, WIPED OF GRIT, HALVED |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED FRESH TARRAGON, PLUS WHOLE LEAVES FOR GARNISH |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY SHERRY |
| 1/4 | CUP LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
| 2 | GRILLED LOBSTER TAILS, HALVED (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHILLED |
| 2 | CUPS FRISÉE, CURLY ENDIVE, OR CHICORY LETTUCE, WASHED AND DRIED |
COMBINE THE SHALLOT, lemon juice, and zest in a small bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes to soften the shallot slightly and mellow the flavor of the dressing.
PLACE A GRILL pan over medium-high heat or oil and preheat an outdoor grill to very hot.
RUB THE FENNEL with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season well with salt and pepper. Lay the fennel on the hot grill, rotating to char all sides. Remove from the grill. Cut out and discard the core. Slice the fennel crosswise into strips.
PLACE A SAUTÉ pan over medium-high heat and coat with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the mushrooms and tarragon, tossing to coat. Sauté until the mushrooms release their moisture and begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
ADD THE SHERRY and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Simmer until the liquid is almost totally evaporated, about 2 minutes.
REMOVE FROM THE heat and set aside to cool completely. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary (generally cold food needs more seasoning than hot food). When cool, fold in the fennel slices and reserved fennel fronds.
WHISK THE REMAINING 1/4 cup of oil into the lemon shallot mixture. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and marinate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving.
LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE
MAKES 1/2 CUP
| 1/2 | CUP CRÈME FRAÎCHE |
| 1 | TABLESPOON FINELY GRATED LEMON ZEST |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED TARRAGON |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE CRÈME fraîche, zest, and tarragon in a small bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate. May be made up to 1 hour in advance.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: For the salad, spoon 1 tablespoon of the Lemon Crème Fraîche onto each of 4 plates and spread it into a circle with the back of a spoon. Set a 3-inch ring mold in the center of the cream and spoon one-quarter of the Roasted Fennel and Chanterelle Salad into it. Press down gently with the back of a spoon to pack it in well. Carefully remove the ring, so the salad keeps its shape. Place half of a Grilled Lobster Tail across each salad and pile 1/2 cup of frisée on top. Garnish with a few tarragon leaves. Spoon any leftover vinaigrette from the salad over the greens. Ladle the soup into 4 heated bowls, garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and a light dusting of fennel pollen. Top with a dollop of Lemon Crème Fraîche.
CIOPPINO
MAKES 2 QUARTS
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 4 | RED BELL PEPPERS, CORED, SEEDED, AND COARSELY CHOPPED, PLUS 1/2 CUP DICED FOR GARNISH |
| 4 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 1 | LARGE YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED, PLUS 1/2 CUP DICED FOR GARNISH |
| 1 | JALAPEÑO, SEEDED AND CHOPPED |
| 1/4 | BUNCH BASIL, STEMS AND LEAVES SEPARATED |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 8 | ROMA TOMATOES (ABOUT 2 POUNDS), COARSELY CHOPPED, PLUS 1/2 CUP DICED FOR GARNISH |
| 1 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1 1/2 | QUARTS LOBSTER STOCK (PAGE 223) |
| 1 | CUP CLAW AND KNUCKLE LOBSTER MEAT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1/4 | CUP AVOCADO MOUSSE (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
HEAT A LARGE saucepan over medium heat and coat with the oil. Once the oil gets hazy, add the red peppers, garlic, onion, and jalapeño. Cook, stirring constantly, until the vegetable mixture caramelizes and the flavors meld, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the basil stems, bay leaf, peppercorns, and coriander seeds and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
STIR IN THE tomatoes and continue to cook until they begin to break down and the moisture begins to evaporate, 5 to 10 minutes.
ADD THE WINE and simmer for a couple of minutes to burn off some of the alcohol. The mixture should not be totally dry. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.
TASTE AND ADJUST the seasonings if necessary. Put the hot soup through a food mill or purée with a standard or immersion blender until the soup is smooth and thick.
RETURN THE SOUP to a clean saucepan. Place over medium-low heat and add the remaining diced onion, peppers, tomatoes, and lobster meat. Cook to heat through, about 5 minutes.
HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD
| 1 | SHALLOT, MINCED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS WHITE BALSAMIC VINEGAR |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 3 | ASSORTED RIPE HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, SUCH AS BRANDYWINE, GREEN ZEBRA, AND SUNGOLD |
| 1/4 | CUP AVOCADO MOUSSE (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
| 2 | GRILLED LOBSTER TAILS, HALVED (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHILLED |
| 2 | CUPS BABY ARUGULA, STEMS TRIMMED FRESH BASIL LEAVES, FOR GARNISH |
COMBINE THE SHALLOT and vinegar in a small bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes to soften the shallot slightly and mellow the flavor. Whisk in the oil and season with salt and pepper. Set the vinaigrette aside.
CUT THE TOMATOES crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. (For a great presentation, use a cookie cutter to punch out uniform circles and remove the skin.) Lay the slices in a single layer in a baking dish and season well with salt and pepper. Pour the vinaigrette over the tomatoes and marinate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving.
AVOCADO MOUSSE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
| 1/4 | CUP TOMATO WATER (PAGE 224) |
| JUICE OF 1 LIME | |
| 1/2 | JALAPEÑO, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | SMALL RIPE HASS AVOCADO, PITTED, PEELED, AND COARSELY CHOPPED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CRÈME FRAÎCHE |
COMBINE THE TOMATO Water, lime juice, and jalapeño in a blender and purée until smooth. Add the avocado and blend until creamy and thick. Scrape the mixture into a small bowl and season well with salt and pepper. Stir in the crème fraîche until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. May be made up to 1 hour in advance.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Spoon 1 tablespoon of the Avocado Mousse onto each of 4 plates and spread it into a circle with the back of a spoon. Lay 1 slice of each type of tomato from the Heirloom Tomato Salad on top, placing the slices next to each other in a triangle shape. Place half a Grilled Lobster Tail across each salad and pile 1/2 cup of arugula on top. Garnish with a few basil leaves. Spoon any of the leftover vinaigrette from the salad over the greens.
LADLE THE CIOPPINO into 4 heated bowls, garnish with a few basil leaves, and top with a dollop of Avocado Mousse.
THAI COCONUT AND WHITE CORN SOUP
MAKES 2 QUARTS
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 8 | SHALLOTS, SLICED |
| 8 | CLOVES GARLIC |
| 4 | EARS SWEET WHITE CORN, KERNELS CUT FROM THE COB (ABOUT 4 CUPS), AND COBS CUT UP |
| 4 | STALKS LEMONGRASS, WHITE BULB ONLY, HALVED LENGTHWISE |
| 4 | KAFFIR LIME LEAVES |
| 4 | -INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND SLICED |
| 4 | -INCH PIECE FRESH GALANGAL, PEELED AND SLICED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | TABLESPOON THAI RED CURRY PASTE |
| 1/2 | CUP MIRIN |
| 1/2 | CUP SAKE |
| TWO 14-OUNCE CANS UNSWEETENED COCONUT MILK | |
| 1 1/2 | QUARTS LOBSTER STOCK (PAGE 223) |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
| 1/2 | BUNCH FRESH CILANTRO, STEMS AND LEAVES SEPARATED |
| 1/2 | BUNCH FRESH THAI BASIL, STEMS AND LEAVES SEPARATED |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | CUP CLAW AND KNUCKLE LOBSTER MEAT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 2 | THAI BIRD CHILIES, SLICED, FOR GARNISH |
| 1/4 | CUP RED PEPPER CREAM (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
PLACE A LARGE saucepan over medium heat and coat with the oil. Once the oil gets hazy, add the shallots, garlic, lime leaves, corn cobs, lemongrass, ginger, and galangal. Sauté until the aromatics are soft and very fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the curry paste and cook for 1 minute to combine. Add the mirin and sake and stir to deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid is evaporated, about 2 minutes.
ADD THE COCONUT milk, stock, coriander seeds, cilantro stems, basil stems, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for about 20 minutes to allow the flavors to intensify.
CAREFULLY POUR THE soup through a strainer into a clean saucepan, discard the solids, and return the soup to medium heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary with salt and pepper. Bring the soup to a simmer. Add half of the corn kernels. Remove the soup from heat and purée with an immersion blender to thicken the soup and deepen the corn flavor. Add the remaining 2 cups of corn kernels and the lobster meat. Cook to heat through, about 5 minutes.
GRILLED CORN AND COCONUT SALAD
| 1 | SHALLOT, MINCED |
| 2 | THAI BIRD CHILIES, STEMMED AND SLICED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FRESH LIME JUICE |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON FISH SAUCE (NAM PLA), SUCH AS THREE CRABS BRAND |
| 1/4 | CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | EAR SWEET YELLOW CORN, HUSKED |
| 1 | EAR SWEET WHITE CORN, HUSKED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES, PLUS MORE FOR GARNISH |
| 2 | SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, SLICED |
| 1/2 | SMALL COCONUT (PREFERABLY MACAPUNO), SHAVED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| 1/4 | CUP RED PEPPER CREAM (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
| 2 | GRILLED LOBSTER TAILS, HALVED (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 2 | CUPS WATERCRESS, STEMS TRIMMED |
COMBINE THE SHALLOT, chilies, lime juice, and fish sauce in a small bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes to soften the shallot and chilies slightly and mellow their flavor. Set aside.
PLACE A GRILL pan over medium-high heat or preheat an outdoor grill to very hot.
RUB THE EARS of corn with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season well with salt and pepper. Lay the corn on the hot grill, rotating frequently until all sides are charred. Let cool.
USING A SHARP knife and holding the cobs upright, cut off the kernels and place the corn in a large bowl. Add the cilantro leaves, scallions, and coconut. Season with salt and pepper and toss to combine.
WHISK THE REMAINING 1/4 cup of oil into the reserved shallot mixture. Pour the vinaigrette over the corn mixture and marinate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes to absorb the flavor.
RED PEPPER CREAM
MAKES ABOUT 1/2 CUP
| 2 | RED BELL PEPPERS |
| 1 | TEASPOON FRESH LIME JUICE |
| 1/2 | CUP CRÈME FRAÎCHE |
| KOSHER SALT |
PASS THE PEPPERS through a juicer; you should have about 1 1/2 cups of liquid. Combine the bell pepper juice and lime juice in a small saucepan. Place over low heat and simmer until the juice cooks down into a dark thick syrup, about 30 minutes.
TRANSFER THE SYRUP to a small bowl and let cool. Stir in the crème fraîche and season with a pinch of salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: For the salad, spoon 1 tablespoon of the Red Pepper Cream onto each of the 4 plates and spread into a circle with the back of a spoon. Set a 3-inch ring mold in the center of the cream and spoon one-quarter of the Grilled Corn and Coconut Salad into it to fill the ring. Press down gently with the back of a spoon to pack it in well. Carefully remove the ring, so the salad keeps its shape. Place half a Grilled Lobster Tail across each salad and then pile 1/2 cup of watercress on top. Garnish with a few cilantro leaves. Spoon any leftover vinaigrette from the salad over the greens.
FOR THE SOUP, divide the cilantro leaves, basil leaves, and chilies among 4 heated bowls. Ladle the soup on top and garnish with a dollop of Red Pepper Cream.
