Rice Pilaf, Eight Ways

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: About 30 minutes, plus a little time to rest

M O

Pilafs are defined by cooking rice in butter or oil, usually with onion and often with other ingredients, before adding, at the very least, a flavorful liquid like stock. Yellow rice is a form of pilaf, as are biryani and paella; the technique is universal. That first sautéing step is the commonality, and it’s what makes pilaf truly one of the great gems of home cooking.

Other than that first step, much is up for grabs: The rice may be long- or short-grain; the liquid may be stock or wine or milk (or even yogurt) or nondairy milk; and the herbs, spices, and solid ingredients can be just about any combination. Brown rice is fair game, too, but the technique is slightly different; see page 368.

You can make this advance: When you’re ready to eat, just add a little water, cover it, and heat gently in the microwave, oven, or on the stove.

  1. Put the butter or oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the onion. Cook, stirring, until the onion is soft, 3 to 5 minutes.
  2. Add the rice all at once, turn the heat down to medium, and stir until the rice is glossy, completely coated with fat, and starting to color lightly, about 5 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper, then turn the heat down to low and add the stock all at once. Stir once or twice, then cover the pan.
  3. Cook for about 15 minutes, until most of the liquid is absorbed. Turn the heat to the absolute minimum (if you have an electric stove, turn the heat off and leave the pan on the burner) and let rest for another 15 to 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Pilaf with Currants and Pine Nuts The Middle Eastern classic: Butter is ideal here, but not necessary. Along with the rice, add ¼ cup currants or raisins, 2 tablespoons pine nuts, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon.

Pilaf with Chickpeas, Peas, Limas, or Other Beans Just before adding the stock, stir in 1 cup cooked chickpeas, raw green peas (frozen are okay, no need to thaw), fresh or frozen limas or edamame beans, or drained cooked or canned (or frozen) pigeon peas or black-eyed peas. Add 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves and a bay leaf (remove it before serving).

Vermicelli Pilaf Break enough vermicelli or angel hair pasta into 1-inch lengths to make about a cup. Cook along with the rice until nicely browned. Proceed with the recipe, increasing the stock to about 3 cups.

Pilaf with Spinach or Other Greens Add 2 cups trimmed, rinsed, and chopped fresh spinach, chard, sorrel, watercress, or beet greens along with the onion. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic just after you stir in the rice, then proceed with the recipe, reducing the liquid to about 2¼ cups.

Mexican Rice with Vegetables In Step 2, just after adding the rice, stir in ⅓ cup each chopped carrot, celery, red or other bell pepper, and green beans or whole peas. Proceed with the recipe, garnishing with parsley or cilantro.

Red or Green Rice Pilaf Better known as Arroz Rojo or Verde, these are Mexican pilafs: Use olive or good-quality vegetable oil, and add 1 teaspoon minced garlic just after you stir in the rice. For Arroz Rojo, add about 1 cup chopped tomato (canned is fine; don’t bother to drain) just before you add the stock; reduce the stock to 1¾ cups. For Arroz Verde, add about 1 cup chopped roasted and peeled poblano chiles (see page 228). Finish with parsley or cilantro and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. V

Kimchi Rice Use sesame oil. Don’t salt the rice in Step 2. In Step 2, just after adding the rice, stir in ½ cup chopped Kimchi (page 93). Proceed with the recipe, seasoning with soy sauce and garnishing with sliced scallions. V