Jook

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: About 2½ hours

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Jook — also called congee or rice gruel — is a thinnish Chinese “porridge” typically eaten for breakfast. It is truly astonishing how much flavor a cup of rice can impart to six times its volume of water, but it’s the garnishes that really make jook delicious. To me, soy sauce, sesame oil, and scallions are essential, but cilantro and peanuts are also terrific additions.

• 1 cup short-grain rice
• Salt
• 2 inches fresh ginger, peeled
• ½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, or about 10 dried
• Soy sauce
• Sesame oil
• ½ cup chopped scallions for garnish (optional)
• ½ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)
• ½ cup chopped roasted peanuts for garnish (optional)

1. Put the rice in a large pot with 6 cups water and a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture barely bubbles.
2. Slice half the ginger and add it to the pot; mince the remaining ginger and save it for later. If you’re using fresh shiitakes, stem them (discard the stems or reserve for stock), slice the caps, and add them to the pot. If you’re using dried shiitakes, cover them with boiling water and soak until pliable, then drain, reserving the soaking liquid to use later or for stock; slice the mushrooms and add them to the rice.
3. Partially cover the pot and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally to make sure the rice is not sticking to the bottom. If it becomes thick too quickly, turn down the heat and stir in more water or some of the soaking liquid. The jook is ready when it’s soupy and creamy, like the consistency of watery oatmeal. Add the minced ginger, and soy sauce and sesame oil to taste, along with more salt if necessary. Serve with whatever garnishes you choose (see “13 Toppings for Jook,” below).

6 Things You Can Cook in Jook

Most of these just need to be added in the last 10 minutes of cooking.

1. Chopped spinach, kale, bok choy, Chinese broccoli, or most greens
2. Shredded Napa cabbage
3. Chopped sweet potato (add in the last 20 minutes)
4. Cubed tofu
5. Fresh or frozen corn kernels (no need to thaw)
6. Dried or macerated fruit (to make your own, see page 269)

13 Toppings for Jook

This should probably just be a list of things you can’t put on jook, which isn’t much. Almost anything you think of will be good.

1. Poached or hard-boiled egg (page 525 or 521)
2. Toasted sesame seeds
3. Sliced avocado
4. Chile oil or most hot sauces
5. Lightly sautéed spinach
6. Soy sauce, sesame oil, or Fishless Fish Sauce (page 656)
7. Grilled Asparagus (page 171)
8. Stir-Fried Tofu with Scallions (page 490)
9. Fresh or Crisp-Fried Bean Sprouts (page 176)
10. Really Spicy Tofu and Peas in Coconut Milk (page 493)
11. Kimchi, Miso-Cured Vegetables, or Spicy Korean-Style Pickles (pages 93 or 91)
12. Flash-Cooked Kale or Collards with Lemon Juice (page 210)
13. Cilantro or Other Herb “Pesto” (page 638)