Kaanapali Beach, Maui
For many, Maui inhabits the sweet spot. Hawaii’s second-largest island is a tangle of lovely contradictions, with a Gucci heel on one foot and a puka-shell anklet on the other. Culturally, it’s a mix of farmers, paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), aspiring chefs, artists, New Age healers, and big-wave riders. The landscape runs the gamut from sun-kissed golden beaches and fragrant rainforests to the frigid, windswept summit of Haleakala. Sure, more traffic lights sprout up around the island every year and spurts of development have turned cherished landmarks into mere memories. But even as Maui transforms, its allure remains.
Arriving
By Plane If you think of the island of Maui as the shape of a person’s head and shoulders, you’ll probably arrive near its neck, at Kahului Airport (OGG). Many airlines offer direct flights to Maui from the mainland U.S., including Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianair.com; 
800/367-5320), Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com; 800/252/7522), United Airlines (www.united.com; 800/241-6522), Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com; 800/221-1212), American Airlines (www.aa.com; 800/882-8880), and Virgin America (www.virginamerica.com; 877/359-8474). The only international flights to Maui originate in Canada, via Air Canada (www.aircanada.com; 888/247-2262) and West Jet (www.westjet.com; 888/937-8538), both fly from Vancouver.
Other major carriers stop in Honolulu, where you’ll catch an interisland flight to Maui on Hawaiian. A small commuter service, Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-7070), flies from Honolulu to Kahului Airport and Maui’s two other airstrips. If you’re staying in Lahaina or Kaanapali, you might consider flying in or out of Kapalua–West Maui Airport (JHM). From this tiny, one-pony airfield, it’s only a 10- to 15-minute drive to most hotels in West Maui, as opposed to an hour or more from Kahului. Same story with Hana Airport (HNM): Flying directly here will save you a 3-hour drive.
Mokulele also flies between Maui, Molokai, the Big Island, and by charter to Lanai. Check-in is a breeze: no security lines (unless leaving from Honolulu). You’ll be weighed, ushered onto the tarmac, and welcomed aboard a nine-seat Cessna. The plane flies low, and the views between the islands are outstanding.
Landing at Kahului If you’re renting a car, proceed to the car-rental desks just beyond baggage claim. All of the major rental companies have branches at Kahului. Each rental agency has a shuttle that will deliver you to the car lot a half-mile away. For tips on insurance and driving rules in Hawaii, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).
If you’re not renting a car, the cheapest way to exit the airport is the Maui Bus (www.mauicounty.gov/bus; 808/871-4838). For $2, it will deposit you at any one of the island’s major towns. Simply cross the street at baggage claim and wait under the awning. Unfortunately, bus stops are far and few between, so you’ll end up lugging your suitcase a long way to your destination. A much more convenient option is Roberts Hawaii Express Shuttle (www.airportshuttlehawaii.com/shuttles/maui; 866/898-2523 or 808/439-8800), which offers curb-to-curb service in a shared van or small bus and easy online booking. Plan to pay $24 (one-way) to Wailea and $34 to Kaanapali. Prices drop if you book round-trip. SpeediShuttle Maui (www.speedishuttle.com; 877/242-5777). Prices (one-way, from the airport, for a shared van) range from $18 to Wailea to $31 to Kaanapali. You must book 24 hours in advance. Bonus: You can request a fresh flower lei greeting for an added fee.
Taxis usually cost 30% more than the shuttles—except when you’re traveling with a large party, in which case they’re a deal. West Maui Taxi (www.westmauitaxi.com; 888/661-4545), for example, will drive up to six people from Kahului Airport to Kaanapali for $80.
Visitor Information
The website of the Hawaii Tourism Authority (www.gohawaii.com/maui) is chock-full of helpful facts and tips. Visit the state-run Visitor Information Center at the Kahului Airport baggage claim for brochures and the latest issue of This Week Maui, which features great regional maps.
The Island in Brief
This medium-sized island lies in the center of the Hawaiian archipelago.
Central Maui
Maui, the Valley Isle, is so named for the large isthmus between the island’s two towering volcanoes: Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. The flat landscape in between, Central Maui, is the heart of the island’s business community and local government.
Kahului Most Maui visitors fly over former sugarcane fields to land at Kahului Airport, just yards away from rolling surf. Sadly, your first sight out of the airport will likely be Target or Costco—hardly icons of Hawaiiana but always bustling with islanders and visitors alike. Beyond that, Kahului is a grid of shops and suburbs that you’ll pass through en route to your destination.
Wailuku Nestled up against the West Maui Mountains, Wailuku is a time capsule of faded wooden storefronts, old churches, and plantation homes. Although most people zip through on their way to see the natural beauty of Iao Valley, this quaint little town is worth a brief visit, if only to see a real place where real people actually appear to be working at something other than a suntan. This is the county seat, so you’ll see folks in suits (or at least aloha shirts and long pants). The town has some great budget restaurants, interesting bungalow architecture, a wonderful historic B&B, and the intriguing Bailey House Museum.
West Maui
Jagged peaks, velvety green valleys, a wilderness full of native species: The majestic West Maui Mountains are the epitome of earthly paradise. The beaches below are crowded with condos and resorts, but still achingly beautiful. This stretch of coastline from Kapalua to the historic port of Lahaina, is the island’s busiest resort area (with South Maui close behind). Expect slow-moving traffic on the two main thoroughfares: Honoapiilani Highway and Front Street.
Vacationers on this coast can choose from several beachside neighborhoods, each with its own identity and microclimate. The West Side tends to be hot, humid, and sunny; as you travel north, the weather grows cooler and mistier. Starting at the southern end of West Maui and moving northward, the coastal communities look like this:
Lahaina In days past, Lahaina was the seat of Hawaiian royalty. Legend has it that a powerful moo (lizard goddess) dwelt in a moat surrounding a palace here. Later this hot and sunny seaport was where raucous whalers swaggered ashore in search of women and grog. Modern Lahaina is a tame version of its former self. Today Front Street teems with restaurants, T-shirt shops, and galleries. Action revolves around the town’s giant, century-old banyan tree and busy recreational harbor. Lahaina is rife with tourist traps, but you can still find plenty of authentic history here. It’s also a great place to stay; accommodations include a few old hotels (such as the 1901 Pioneer Inn on the harbor), quaint bed-and-breakfasts, and a handful of oceanfront condos.
Kaanapali Farther north along the West Maui coast is Hawaii’s first master-planned destination resort. Along nearly 3 miles of sun-kissed golden beach, pricey midrise hotels are linked by a landscaped parkway and a beachfront walking path. Golf greens wrap around the slope between beachfront and hillside properties. Convenience is a factor here: Whalers Village shopping mall and numerous restaurants are easy to reach on foot or by resort shuttle. Shuttles serve the small West Maui airport and also go to Lahaina (see above), 3 miles to the south, for shopping, dining, entertainment, and boat tours. Kaanapali is popular with groups and families—and especially teenagers, who like all the action.
Honokowai, Kahana In the building binge of the 1970s, condominiums sprouted along this gorgeous coastline like mushrooms after a rain. Today these older oceanside units offer excellent bargains for astute travelers. The great location—along sandy beaches, within minutes of both the Kapalua and Kaanapali resort areas, and close enough to the goings-on in Lahaina town—makes this a haven for the budget-minded.
In Honokowai and Mahinahina, you’ll find mostly older, cheaper units. There’s not much shopping here (mostly convenience stores), but you’ll have easy access to the shops and restaurants of Kaanapali. Kahana is a little more upscale than Honokowai and Mahinahina, and most of its condos are big high-rise types, newer than those immediately to the south.
Napili A quiet, tucked-away gem, with temperatures at least 5 degrees cooler than in Lahaina, this tiny neighborhood feels like a world unto itself. Wrapped around deliciously calm Napili Bay, Napili offers convenient activity desks and decent eateries and is close to the gourmet restaurants of Kapalua. Lodging is generally more expensive here—although I’ve found a few hidden jewels at affordable prices.
Kapalua Beyond the activity of Kaanapali and Kahana, the road starts to climb and the vista opens up to include unfettered views of Molokai across the channel. A country lane lined with Cook pines brings you to Kapalua. It’s the exclusive domain of the luxurious Ritz-Carlton resort and expensive condos and villas, set above two sandy beaches. Just north are two jeweled bays: marine-life preserves and world-class surf spot in winter. Although rain is frequent here, it doesn’t dampen the enjoyment of this wilder stretch of coast.
Anyone is welcome to visit Kapalua, guest of the resort or not. The Ritz-Carlton provides free public parking and beach access. The resort has swank restaurants, spas, golf courses, and hiking trails—all open to the public.
South Maui
The hot, sunny South Maui coastline is popular with families and sun worshippers. Rain rarely falls here, and temperatures hover around 85°F (29°C) year-round. Cows once grazed and cacti grew wild on this former scrubland from Maalaea to Makena, now home to four distinct areas—Maalaea, Kihei, Wailea, and Makena. Maalaea is off on its own, at the mouth of an active small boat harbor, Kihei is the working-class, feeder community for well-heeled Wailea, and Makena is a luxurious wilderness at the road’s end.
Maalaea If West Maui is the island’s head, Maalaea is just under the chin. This windy, oceanfront village centers on a small-boat harbor (with a general store and a handful of restaurants) and the Maui Ocean Center, an aquarium/ocean complex. Visitors should be aware that tradewinds are near constant here, so a stroll on the beach often comes with a free sandblasting.
Kihei Less a proper town than a nearly continuous series of condos and mini-malls lining South Kihei Road, Kihei is Maui’s best vacation bargain. Budget travelers swarm like sun-seeking geckos over the eight sandy beaches along this scalloped, 7-mile stretch of coast. Kihei is neither charming nor quaint; what it lacks in aesthetics, though, it more than makes up for in sunshine, affordability, and convenience. If you want the beach in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, and Hawaii Regional Cuisine in the evening—all at bargain prices—head to Kihei.
Wailea Just 4 decades ago, the road south of Kihei was a barely paved path through a tangle of kiawe trees. Now Wailea is a manicured oasis of multimillion-dollar resorts along 2 miles of palm-fringed gold coast. Wailea has warm, clear water full of tropical fish; year-round sunshine and clear blue skies; and hedonistic pleasure palaces on 1,500 acres of black-lava shore indented by five beautiful beaches, each one prettier than the next.
This is the playground of the stretch-limo set. The planned resort community has a shopping village, a plethora of award-winning restaurants, several prized golf courses, and a tennis complex. A growing number of large homes sprawl over the upper hillside, some offering excellent B&Bs at reasonable prices. The resorts along this fantasy coast are spectacular. Next door to the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, the most elegant, is the Grand Wailea, built by Tokyo developer Takeshi Sekiguchi, who dropped $500 million in 1991 to create the most opulent Hawaiian resort to date. Stop in and take a look—sculptures by Botero and Léger populate its open-air art gallery and gardens. Stones imported from Mount Fuji line the resort’s Japanese garden.
Makena Suddenly, the road enters raw wilderness. After Wailea’s overdone density, the thorny landscape is a welcome relief. Although beautiful, this is an end-of-the-road kind of place: It’s a long drive from Makena to anywhere on Maui. If you’re looking for an activity-filled vacation, stay elsewhere, or you’ll spend most of your vacation in the car. But if you want a quiet, relaxing respite, where the biggest trip of the day is from your bed to the beach, Makena is the place.
Puu Olai stands like Maui’s Diamond Head near the southern tip of the island. The red-cinder cone shelters tropical fish and Makena State Beach Park, a vast stretch of golden sand spanked by feisty swells. Beyond Makena, you’ll discover Haleakala’s most recent lava flow; the bay famously visited by French explorer La Pérouse; and a sunbaked lava-rock trail known as the King’s Highway, which threads around Maui’s southernmost shore through the ruins of bygone fishing villages.
Upcountry Maui
After a few days at the beach, you’ll probably notice the 10,023-foot mountain towering over Maui. The leeward slopes of Haleakala (House of the Sun) are home to cowboys, farmers, and other rural folks who wave as you drive by. They’re all up here enjoying the crisp air, emerald pastures, eucalyptus, and flower farms of this tropical Olympus.
The neighborhoods here are called “upcountry” because they’re halfway up the mountain. You can see a thousand tropical sunsets reflected in the windows of houses old and new, strung along a road that runs like a loose hound from Makawao to Kula, leading up to the summit and Haleakala National Park. If you head south on Kula Highway, beyond the tiny outpost of Kēokea, the road turns feral, undulating out toward the MauiWine Vineyards, where cattle, elk, and grapes flourish on Ulupalakua Ranch. A stay upcountry is usually affordable and a nice contrast to the sizzling beaches and busy resorts below.
Makawao This small, two-street town has plenty of charm. It wasn’t long ago that Hawaiian paniolo (cowboys) tied up their horses to the hitching posts outside the storefronts here; working ranchers still stroll through to pick up coffee and packages from the post office. The eclectic shops, galleries, and restaurants have a little something for everyone—from blocked Stetsons to wind chimes. Nearby, the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center, Hawaii’s premier arts collective, is definitely worth a detour. Makawao’s only accommodations are reasonably priced B&Bs, ideal for those who love great views and don’t mind slightly chilly nights.
Kula A feeling of pastoral remoteness prevails in this upcountry community of old flower farms, humble cottages, and new suburban ranch houses with million-dollar views that take in the ocean, the isthmus, the West Maui Mountains, and, at night, the lights that run along the gold coast like a string of pearls from Maalaea to Puu Olai. Everything flourishes at a cool 3,000 feet (bring a jacket), just below the cloud line, along a winding road on the way up to Haleakala National Park. Everyone here grows something—Maui onions, lavender, orchids, and proteas—and B&Bs cater to guests seeking cool tropical nights, panoramic views, and a rural upland escape. Here you’ll find the true peace and quiet that only rural farming country can offer—yet you’re still just 40 minutes away from the beach and a little more than an hour’s drive from Lahaina.
Makawao town
On the Road to Hana On Maui’s North Shore, Paia was once a busy sugar plantation town with a railroad, two movie theaters, and a double-decker mercantile. As the sugar industry began to wane, the tuned-in, dropped-out hippies of the 1970s moved in, followed shortly by a cosmopolitan collection of windsurfers. When the international wave riders discovered Hookipa Beach Park just outside of town, their minds were blown; it’s one of the best places on the planet to catch air. Today high-tech windsurf shops, trendy restaurants, bikini boutiques, and modern art galleries inhabit Paia’s rainbow-colored vintage buildings. The Dalai Lama himself blessed the beautiful Tibetan stupa in the center of town. Mama’s Fish House is located east of Paia in the tiny community of Kuau, 10 minutes farther east.
Once a pineapple plantation village, complete with two canneries (both now shopping complexes), Haiku offers vacation rentals and B&Bs in a pastoral setting. It’s the perfect base for those who want to get off the beaten path and experience the quieter side of Maui.
Hana Set between an emerald rainforest and the blue Pacific is a Hawaiian village blissfully lacking in golf courses, shopping malls, and fast-food joints. Hana is more of a sensory overload than a destination; here you’ll discover the simple joys of rain-misted flowers, the sweet taste of backyard bananas and papayas, and the easy calm and unabashed aloha spirit of old Hawaii. What saved “Heavenly” Hana from the inevitable march of progress? The 52-mile Hana Highway, which winds around 600 curves and crosses more than 50 one-lane bridges on its way from Kahului. You can go to Hana for the day—it’s 3 hours (and a half-century) from Kihei and Lahaina—but 3 days are better.
By Car The simplest way to see Maui is by rental car; public transit is still in its infancy here. All of the major car-rental firms—including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, and Thrifty—have agencies on Maui. If you’re on a budget or traveling with sports gear, you can rent an older vehicle by the week from Aloha Rent-a-Car (www.aloharentacar.com; 888/4562-5642 or 808/877-4477). For tips on insurance and driving rules in Hawaii, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).
Maui has only a handful of major roads, and you can expect a traffic jam or two heading into Kihei, Lahaina, or Paia. In general, the roads hug the coastlines; one zigzags up to Haleakala’s summit. When asking locals for directions don’t bother using highway numbers; residents know the routes by name only.
Traffic advisory: Be alert on the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30) en route to Lahaina. Drivers ogling whales in the channel between Maui and Lanai often slam on the brakes and cause major tie-ups and accidents. This is the main road connecting the west side to the rest of the island; if an accident, rockslide, flooding, or other road hazard occurs, traffic can back up for 1 to 8 hours (no joke). So before you set off, check with Maui County for road closure advisories (www.co.maui.hi.us; 808/986-1200). The most up-to-date info can be found on its Twitter feed (@CountyofMaui) or that of a local news agency (@MauiNow).
By Motorcycle Feel the wind on your face and smell the salt air as you tour the island on a Harley, available for rent from Maui Motorcyle Co., 150 Dairy Rd., Kahului (www.mauimotorcycleco.com; 808/877-7433); rentals start at $139 a day.
By Taxi Because Maui’s various destinations are so spread out, taxi service can be quite expensive and should be limited to travel within a neighborhood. West Maui Taxi (www.westmauitaxi.com; 888/661-4545) offers 24-hour service island-wide while Kihei Wailea Taxi ( 808/879-3000) serves South Maui. The metered rate is $3 per mile.
By Bus The Maui Bus (www.mauicounty.gov/bus; 808/871-4838) is a public/private partnership that provides affordable but sadly inconsistent public transit to various communities across the island. Expect hour waits between rides. Air-conditioned buses service 13 routes, including several that stop at the airport. All routes operate daily, including holidays. Suitcases (one per passenger) and bikes are allowed; surfboards are not. Fares are $2.
Dentists If you have dental problems, a nationwide referral service known as 1-800-DENTIST ( 800/336-8478) will provide the name of a nearby dentist or clinic. Emergency dental care is available at Hawaii Family Dental, 1847 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (www.hawaiifamilydental.com 808/874-8401 and 95 Lono Av., Ste. 210, Kahului 808/856-4626), or at Aloha Lahaina Dentists, 134 Luakini St. (in the Maui Medical Group Bldg.), Lahaina ( 808/661-4005).
Doctors Urgent Care West Maui, located in the Fairway Shops, 2580 Kekaa Dr., Suite 111, Kaanapali (www.westmauidoctors.com; 808/667-9721), is open 365 days a year; no appointment necessary. In Kihei, call Urgent Care Maui, 1325 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 103 (at Lipoa St., across from Times Market), Kihei ( 808/879-7781); it’s open Monday to Saturday 7am to 9pm and Sunday 8am to 2pm.
Emergencies Call 911 for police, fire, and ambulance service. District stations are located in Lahaina ( 808/661-4441) and in Hana ( 808/248-8311). For the Poison Control Center, call 800/222-1222.
Hospitals In Central Maui, Maui Memorial Medical Center is at 221 Mahalani, Wailuku ( 808/244-9056). East Maui’s Hana Community Health Center is open weekdays at 4590 Hana Hwy. (www.hanahealth.org; 808/248-7515). In upcountry Maui, Kula Hospital is at 100 Keokea Pl. (off of Kula Highway), Kula ( 808/878-1221).
Internet Access Many places offer free Wi-Fi. Whole Foods (www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/maui) has Wi-Fi at the Maui Mall in Kahului, and Starbucks (www.starbucks.com/store-locator) provides Internet service in its stores in Kahului, Pukalani, Lahaina, and Kihei. If you need a computer, visit a public library (to find the closest location, check www.publiclibraries.com/hawaii.htm). A library card gets you free access; you can purchase a 3-month visitor card for $10.
Post Office To find the nearest post office, call 800/ASK-USPS. In Lahaina, branches are located at the Lahaina Civic Center, 1760 Honoapiilani Hwy., and at the Lahaina Shopping Center, 132 Papalaua St. In Kahului, there’s a branch at 138 S. Puunēnē Ave., and in Kihei, there’s one at 1254 S. Kihei Rd.
Weather For the current weather, the Haleakala National Park weather, or the marine and surf conditions, call the National Weather Service’s Maui forecast ( 866/944-5025) or visit www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl and click on the island of Maui.
Attractions & Points of Interest
Tip: If you’re a history buff, buy a “Passport to the Past” for $10 and gain admission to Maui’s four best museums: the Baldwin Home and Wo Hing Museum in Lahaina, the Bailey House in Wailuku, and the A&B Sugar Museum in Puunene. The passport is sold at each of these locations.
Central Maui
Kahului
Directly outside the Kahului Airport you can find an unlikely nature preserve: the Kanaha Wildlife Sanctuary, Haleakala Highway Extension and Hana Highway ( 808/984-8100). Look for the parking area off the Haleakala Highway Extension (just past Krispy Kreme), and you’ll find a 50-foot trail that meanders along the shore to a shade shelter and lookout. This wetland is the permanent home of the endangered black-neck Hawaiian stilt. It’s also a good place to see endangered Hawaiian koloa (ducks), coots, and migrating shorebirds.
Maui Nui Botanical Garden 
GARDEN This garden is a living treasure box of native Hawaiian coastal species and plants brought here by Polynesian voyagers in their seafaring canoes. Stroll beneath the shade of the hala and breadfruit trees. Learn how the first Hawaiians made everything from medicine to musical instruments out of the plants they found growing in these islands. Ask to see the hapai (pregnant) banana tree—a variety with fruits that grow inside the trunk! Take a self-guided audio tour or take a do docent-led tour ($10) Tuesday through Thursday at 10am. If the garden happens to be hosting a lei-making or kapa-dyeing workshop while you’re on the island, don’t miss it.
150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului. www.mnbg.org. 
808/249-2798. $5 adults, free for seniors and children 12 and under and on Sat; guided tours $10 per person.
Wailuku
Wailuku, the historic gateway to Iao Valley, is worth a visit for a little shopping and a stop at the small but fascinating Bailey House.
Bailey House Museum HISTORIC SITE Since 1957, the Maui Historical Society has welcomed visitors to the charming former home of Edward Bailey, a missionary, teacher, and accomplished artist. The 1833 building—a hybrid of Hawaiian stonework and Yankee-style architecture—is a trove of Hawaiiana. Inside you’ll find pre-contact artifacts: precious feather lei, kapa (barkcloth) samples, a wooden spear so large it defies believability, and a collection of gemlike Hawaiian tree-snail shells. Bailey’s exquisite landscapes decorate the rock walls, capturing on canvas a Maui that exists only in memory.
2375-A Main St., Wailuku. www.mauimuseum.org. 808/244-3326. $7 adults, $5 seniors/military, $2 children 7–12. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.
Maui Tropical Plantation GARDEN About 3 miles south of Wailuku lies the tiny village of Waikapu, which has an attraction that’s worth exploring. There’s plenty to do here: shop for locally made souvenirs, learn how to husk a coconut, gawk at the longhorn cattle, and zoom on a zipline over the plantation’s lush landscape. Relive Maui’s past by taking a 40-minute narrated tram ride around fields of pineapple, sugarcane, and papaya trees at a working plantation. Tram tours start at 10am and leave about every 45 minutes. The grounds are fantastically landscaped with tropical plants and sculptures made from repurposed sugarcane-harvesting equipment. The Mill House restaurant offers exceptional, inventive cuisine for lunch and dinner (open 11am–9pm).
1670 Honoapiilani Hwy. www.mauitropicalplantation.com. 808/270-0333. Free admission. Tram tours $20 adults, $10 children 3–12. Daily 8am–9pm.
Iao Valley State Monument 
A couple miles north of Wailuku, the houses grow less frequent and Maui’s wild side begins to reveal itself. The transition from suburban sprawl to raw nature is so abrupt that most people who drive up into the valley don’t realize they’re suddenly in a rainforest. This is Iao Valley, a beautiful 6¼-acre state park whose verdant nature, waterfalls, swimming holes, and hiking trails have been enjoyed by millions of people from around the world for more than a century.
To get here from Wailuku, take Main Street to Iao Valley Road to the entrance to the state park. Two paved walkways loop into the massive green amphitheater, across the bridge of Iao Stream, and along the stream itself. This paved .35-mile loop is Maui’s easiest hike—you can take your grandmother on this one. The leisurely walk will allow you to enjoy lovely views of Iao Needle and the lush vegetation.
The feature known as Iao Needle is an erosional remnant consisting of basalt dikes. This phallic rock juts an impressive 2,250 feet above sea level. Youngsters play in Iao Stream, a peaceful brook that belies its bloody history. In 1790, King Kamehameha the Great and his men engaged in the battle of Iao Valley to gain control of Maui. When the battle ended, so many bodies blocked Iao Stream that the battle site was named Kepaniwai, or “Damming of the Waters.” An architectural heritage park of Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Korean, Portuguese, and New England–style houses stands in harmony by Iao Stream at Kepaniwai Heritage Garden. This is a good picnic spot, with plenty of tables and benches. You can see ferns, banana trees, and other native plants in the Iao Valley Botanic Garden along the stream.
When to Go Park hours are 7am to 7pm daily and the entrance fee is $5 per car. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the sun’s rays slant into the valley and create a mystical mood. You can bring a picnic and spend the day, but be prepared at any time for one of the frequent tropical cloudbursts that soak the valley and swell both waterfalls and streams. For updated info, visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui/iao-valley-state-monument or contact the State Parks Maui office at 808/984-8109.
The Scenic Route to West Maui: The Kahekili Highway
The main route to West Maui is the Honoapiilani Highway, which sidles around the southern coastline along the pali (cliffs) to Lahaina. But those who relish adventures should consider exploring the backside of the West Maui Mountains.
From Wailuku, head north on the Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 340)—though “highway” is a bit of a misnomer for this paved but sometimes precarious road. It’s named after a fierce 18th-century Maui king. The narrow and sometimes white-knuckle road weaves for 20 miles along an ancient Hawaiian coastal footpath to Honokohau Bay, at the island’s northernmost tip, past blowholes, sea stacks, seabird rookeries, and the imposing 636-foot Kahakuloa headland. On the mauka (mountain) side, you’ll pass high cliffs, deep valleys dotted with plantation houses, cattle grazing on green plateaus, old wooden churches, taro fields, and houses hung with fishing nets. It’s slow going (you often have to inch past oncoming traffic on what feels like a one-lane track) but a spectacular drive. In Kahakuloa, between mile markers 12 and 13, stop in at the wooden roadside stand known as Julia’s Best Banana Bread for world-famous warm, sweet loaves and coconut candy. Note: Check for road closures before heading out, especially if it’s been raining heavily. Call Maui County at 808/270-7845.
At Honokohau, pick up Highway 30 and continue on to the West Maui resorts; the first one you’ll reach is Kapalua (see below).
West Maui
For a map of attractions in Lahaina and Kaanapali, see p. 355.
Baldwin Home Museum HISTORIC SITE Step into this coral-and-rock house on Lahaina’s Front Street and travel back in time. Built in 1835, it belonged to Rev. Dwight Baldwin, a missionary, naturalist, and self-trained physician who saved many Native Hawaiians from devastating influenza and smallpox epidemics. Baldwin’s rudimentary medical tools (on display here) bear witness to the steep odds he faced. He was rewarded with 2,600 acres in Kapalua, where he grew pineapple—then an experimental crop. His children later became some of Hawaii’s most powerful landholders and business owners. Tour the Baldwin family home and pick up a walking-tour map to Lahaina’s most historic sites on your way out. On Friday night, docents dressed in period attire offer candlelit tours and serve free refreshments on the lanai.
120 Dickenson St. (at Front St.). www.lahainarestoration.org. 808/661-3262. $7 adults, $5 seniors/military, free for children 12 and under (includes entry to Wo Hing Museum). Sat–Thurs 10am–4pm, Fri 10am–8:30pm.
Banyan Tree NATURAL ATTRACTION Of all the Indian banyan trees in Hawaii, this is the greatest—so big you can’t fit it in your camera’s viewfinder. It was 8 feet tall when planted in 1873. Today the arboreal octopus rises more than 50 feet high, has 12 major trunks, and shades artists and crafters selling their wares in Courthouse Square.
Plantation Museum HISTORIC SITE This tiny museum at the Wharf Cinema Center celebrates Maui’s colorful plantation history. For 150-plus years sugar and pineapple plantations dominated island agriculture and fostered communities of diverse cultures. Learn about life in the camps: the festivals, traditions, innovations, and heroic athletes.
658 Front St. www.lahainarestoration.org. 808/661-3262. Free. Daily 9am–6pm.
Wo Hing Museum & Cookhouse HISTORIC SITE Sandwiched between souvenir shops and restaurants on Front Street, this ornate building once served as a fraternal and social meeting hall for Lahaina’s Chinese immigrants. Today it houses fascinating Asian artifacts, artwork, and a lovely shrine in the altar room upstairs. Beside the temple is a rustic cookhouse where you can watch some of Thomas Edison’s first movies, filmed here in Hawaii. The footage of paniolo (cowboys) wrangling steer onto ships offshore and Honolulu circa 1898 is mesmerizing. Wo Hing hosts Lunar New Year and kite-making festivals that are catnip for kids.
858 Front St. www.lahainarestoration.org. 808/661-3262. $7 adults, $5 seniors/military, free for children 12 and under (includes entry to Baldwin House Museum; see above). Daily 10am–4pm.
South Maui
Maalaea
Maui Ocean Center 
AQUARIUM This 5-acre facility houses the largest aquarium in the state and features one of Hawaii’s largest predators: the tiger shark. As you walk past the 3 dozen or so tanks and countless exhibits, you’ll slowly descend from the tide pools to the pelagic zone—without ever getting wet. Start at the outdoor surge pool, where you’ll see shallow-water spiny urchins and cauliflower coral; and then move on to the turtle pool and eagle-ray pools before heading indoors for the star of the show: a 100-foot-long, 600,000-gallon main tank featuring tiger, gray, and white-tip sharks, as well as feisty ulua, colorful surgeonfish, and numerous others. The walkway tunnels right through the tank, so you’re surrounded on three sides by marine creatures. Check out the hammerhead exhibit, where juvenile scalloped hammerhead sharks are on display, and the Shark Dive Maui Program, where scuba divers plunge into the tank with sharks, stingrays, and tropical fish. You, too, can sign up to dive with sharks, and fish-loving kids can book a sleepover in the aquarium, staying up into the wee hours to watch glowing jellyfish and other nocturnal animals.
At the Maalaea Harbor Village, 192 Maalaea Rd. (the triangle btw. Honoapiilani Hwy. and Maalaea Rd.). www.mauioceancenter.com. 808/270-7000. $30 adults, $28 seniors, $20 children 3–12 (book online for a week pass upgrade). Daily 9am–5pm.
Maui Ocean Center
Kihei
Kealia Pond National Wildlife Preserve NATURE PRESERVE Wedged between Mokulele Highway and Sugar Beach, this 700-acre wetland reserve provides habitat for endangered Hawaiian stilts, coots, and ducks. The picturesque ponds work both as bird preserves and as sedimentation basins that protect coral reefs from runoff. Check out the new visitor center, then take a self-guided tour along a boardwalk dotted with interpretive signs. Among the native waterfowl seen here are the black-crowned high heron, Hawaiian coot, Hawaiian duck, and Hawaiian stilt. From July to December, the hawksbill turtle comes ashore to lay its eggs.
Visitor Center entrance near mile marker 6 on Mokulele Hwy (Hwy. 311). Boardwalk entrance near mile marker 2 on Piilani Hwy. www.fws.gov/kealiapond. 808/875-1582. Free. Visitor Center open Mon: 11am–3pm, Tues–Fri: 8am–3pm; Refuge open Mon–Fri: 7:30am–4pm; Boardwalk open daily: 6am–7pm. Closed Federal Holidays.
Wailea
The best way to explore this golden resort coast is to head for Wailea’s 1.5-mile coastal nature trail , stretching between the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui and the kiawe thicket just beyond the Marriott Wailea Beach Resort. The serpentine path meanders past an abundance of native plants (on the makai, or ocean side), old Hawaiian habitats, and a billion dollars’ worth of luxury hotels. You can pick up the trail at any of the resorts or from clearly marked shoreline access points along the coast. As the path crosses several bold black-lava points, it affords new vistas of islands and ocean; benches allow you to pause and contemplate the view across Alalakeiki Channel, where you may spy whales in season. It’s nice in the cool hours of the morning (though often clogged with joggers) and at sunset, when you can watch the burning sun sink into the Pacific.
Makena
A few miles south of Wailea, the manicured coast returns to wilderness; now you’re in Makena. At one time cattle were driven down the slope from upland ranches, lashed to rafts, and sent into the water to swim to boats that waited to take them to market. Now Makena Landing is a great spot to launch kayaks and dive trips.
From the landing, go south on Makena Road; on the right is Keawalai Congregational Church ( 808/879-5557), built in 1855, with walls 3 feet thick. Surrounded by tī leaves, which by Hawaiian custom provide protection, and built of lava rock with coral used as mortar, this church sits on its own cove with a gold-sand beach. It always attracts a Sunday crowd for its 7:30am and 10am Hawaiian-language services.
Farther south on the coast is La Pérouse Monument, a pyramid of lava rocks that marks the spot where French explorer Adm. Comte de la Pérouse set foot on Maui in 1789. He described the “burning climate” of the leeward coast, observed several fishing villages near Kihei, and sailed on into oblivion, never to be seen again. To get here, drive south to Ahihi Bay, where the road turns to gravel. Just beyond this is Ahihi-Kinau Natural Reserve, 1,238 acres of rare anchialine ponds and sunbaked lava fields from the last eruption of Haleakala between 200 and 500 years ago. Continue another 2 miles past Ahihi-Kinau to La Pérouse Bay; the monument sits amid a clearing in black lava at the end of the dirt road. If you’ve got plenty of water, sunblock, and sturdy shoes, you can embark on foot on the King’s Trail, a rugged path built by ancient Hawaiian royals.
Upcountry Maui
Makawao
Makawao is Hawaiian cowboy country—yup, the islands have a longstanding tradition of ranchers and rodeo masters, and this cool, misty upcountry town is its Maui epicenter. Modern-day paniolo come here to fuel up on cream puffs and stick donuts from Komoda Store & Bakery, 3674 Baldwin Ave. ( 808/572-7261), a 100-year-old family grocery that seems frozen in time. Neighboring shops offer Tibetan jewelry, shabby-chic housewares, and marvelous paintings by local artists. A handful of decent restaurants crowd the intersection of Baldwin and Makawao avenues; take your pick of sushi, Maui cattle ribeye, or pasta.
Five minutes down Baldwin Avenue, the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave. (www.huinoeau.com; 808/572-6560), occupies a two-story, Mediterranean-style stucco home designed in 1917 by C. W. Dickey, one of Hawaii’s most prominent architects. The sprawling 9-acre estate, known as Kaluanui, hosts visiting artists for lectures and classes in basketry, jewelry making, ceramics, painting, and other media, all at reasonable prices. Call for details. The gallery’s rotating exhibits include work by established and emerging artists, and the gift shop features many one-of-a-kind works, including ceramic seconds at a steal. Hours are Monday through Saturday 10am to 4pm.
Kula
While in the upcountry Kula region, visit one of the area’s many farms (see “Maui Farms: Stop & Smell the Lavender,” p. 326).
Kula Botanical Garden GARDEN You can take a self-guided, informative, leisurely stroll through this collection of more than 700 native and exotic plants—including three unique assemblages of orchids, proteas, and bromeliads—at this 5-acre garden. It offers a good overview of Hawaii’s exotic flora in one small, cool place.
638 Kekaulike Ave, Kula. www.kulabotanicalgarden.com. 808/878-1715. $10 adults, $3 children 6–12. Daily 9am–4pm.
MauiWine (Tedeschi Vineyards) 
VINEYARD/WINERY On the southern shoulder of Haleakala is Ulupalakua Ranch, a 20,000-acre spread once owned by the legendary sea captain James Makee, celebrated in the Hawaiian song and dance “Hula O Makee.” Wounded in a Honolulu waterfront brawl in 1843, Makee moved to Maui and bought Ulupalakua. He renamed it Rose Ranch, planted sugar as a cash crop, and grew rich. Still in operation, the ranch is now home to Maui’s only winery, established in 1974 by Napa vintner Emil Tedeschi, who began growing California and European grapes here and produces serious still and sparkling wines, plus a silly wine made of pineapple juice. The grounds are the perfect place for a picnic. Settle under the sprawling camphor tree, pop the cork on a blanc de blanc, and toast your good fortune. Twice a week the staff offers historic tasting tours through the cellar, landscaped grounds, and old jail.
14815 Piilani Hwy., Kula. www.mauiwine.com. 808/878-6058. Free. Tasting room open daily 10am–5:30pm. Tours at 10:30am and 1:30pm.
House of the Sun: Haleakala National Park
The summit of Haleakala, the House of the Sun, is a spectacular natural phenomenon. More than 1.3 million people a year ascend the 10,023-foot-high mountain to peer into the world’s largest dormant volcano. Haleakala has not rumbled for at least 100 years, but it’s still officially considered active. The lunarlike volcanic landscape is a national park, home to numerous rare and endangered plants, birds, and insects. Hardy adventurers hike and camp inside the crater’s wilderness (see “Hiking,” p. 347, and “Camping,” p. 386). Those bound for the interior should bring survival gear, for the terrain is raw and rugged—not unlike the moon. Haleakala’s interior is one of the world’s quietest places—so silent that it exceeds the technical capacity of microphones.
You need reservations to view sunrise from the summit. The National Park Service now limits how many cars can access the summit between 3 and 7am. Book your spot up to 60 days in advance at www.recreation.gov. A fee of $1.50 (on top of the park entrance fee) applies. You’ll need to show your reservation receipt and photo I.D. to enter the park.
Watching the sun’s first golden rays break through the clouds is spectacular, though I recommend sunset instead. It’s equally beautiful—and warmer! Plus, you’re more likely to explore the rest of the park when you’re not sleep-deprived and hungry for breakfast. Full-moon nights can be ethereal, too. No matter when you go, realize that weather is extreme at the summit, ranging from blazing sun to sudden snow flurries. As you ascend the slopes, the temperature drops about 3 degrees every 1,000 feet (305m), so the top can be 30 degrees cooler than it was at sea level. But it’s the alpine wind that really stings. Come prepared with warm layers and rain gear. For sunrise, bring every warm thing you can swaddle yourself with—blankets and sleeping bags included! And remember, glorious views aren’t guaranteed; the summit may be misty or overcast at any time of day. Before you head up the mountain, get current weather conditions from the park (
808/572-4400) or the National Weather Service ( 866/944-5025, option 4).
Haleakala National Park extends from the volcano’s summit down its southeast flank to Maui’s eastern coast, beyond Hana. There are actually two separate districts within the park: Haleakala Summit and Kipahulu (see “Tropical Haleakala: Oheo Gulch at Kipahulu,” p. 323). No roads link the summit and the coast; you have to approach them separately, and you need at least a day to see each place.
The Drive to the Summit
Just driving up the mountain is an experience. Haleakala Crater Road (Hwy. 378) is one of the fastest-ascending roads in the world. Its 33 switchbacks travel through numerous climate zones, passing in and out of clouds to finally deliver a view that extends for more than 100 miles. The trip takes 1½ to 2 hours from Kahului. No matter where you start out, follow Highway 37 (Haleakala Hwy.) to Pukalani, where you’ll pick up Highway 377 (also called Haleakala Hwy.), which you take to Highway 378. Fill up your gas tank before you go—Pukalani is the last stop for fuel. Along the way, expect fog, rain, and wind. Be on the lookout for downhill bicyclists, stray cattle, and naïve nēnē, the native Hawaiian geese.
Remember, you’re entering a high-altitude wilderness area; some people get dizzy from lack of oxygen. Bring water, a jacket, and, if you go up for sunrise, every scrap of warmth you can find. There are no concessions in the park—not a coffee urn in sight. If you plan to hike, bring extra water and snacks.
At the park entrance, you’ll pay a fee of $25 per car or $20 per motorcycle. It’s good for 3 days and includes access to the Kipahulu district on the east side of the island. Immediately after the park entrance, take a left turn into Hosmer’s Grove. A small campground abuts a beautiful evergreen forest. During Hawaii’s territorial days, forester Ralph Hosmer planted experimental groves, hoping to launch a timber industry. It failed, but a few of his sweet-smelling cedars and pines remain. Birders should make a beeline here. A half-mile loop trail snakes from the parking lot through the evergreens to a picturesque gulch, where rare Hawaiian honeycreepers flit above native ‘ōhi‘a and sandalwood trees. The charismatic birds are best spotted in the early morning hours.
One mile from the park entrance, at 7,000 feet, is Haleakala National Park Headquarters ( 808/572-4400), open daily from 7am to 3:45pm. Stop here to pick up park information and camping permits, use the restroom, fill your water bottle, and purchase park swag. Keep an eye out for the native Hawaiian goose. With its black face, buff cheeks, and partially webbed feet, the gray-brown nēnē looks its cousin, the Canada goose; but the Hawaiian bird doesn’t migrate and prefers lava beds to lakes. Nēnē once flourished throughout Hawaii, but habitat destruction and introduced predators (rats, cats, dogs, and mongooses) nearly caused their extinction. By 1951, there were only 30 left. The Boy Scouts helped reintroduce captive-raised birds into the park. The species remains endangered, but is now protected as Hawaii’s state bird.
Beyond headquarters are two scenic overlooks on the way to the summit; stop at Leleiwi on the way up and Kalahaku on the way back down, if only to get out, stretch, and get accustomed to the heights. Take a deep breath, look around, and pop your ears. If you feel dizzy, or get a sudden headache, consider turning around and going back down.
The Leleiwi Overlook is just beyond mile marker 17. From the parking area, a short trail leads to a spectacular view of the colorful volcanic crater. When the clouds are low and the sun is in the right place (usually around sunset), you may witness the “Brocken Spectre”—a reflection of your shadow, ringed by a rainbow, in the clouds below. This optical illusion—caused by a rare combination of sun, shadow, and fog—occurs in just three places: Haleakala, Scotland, and Germany.
Go with the friends
The Friends of Haleakala National Park is a volunteer organization that leads three-day service trips into crater’s wilderness. Backpack into the heart of Haleakala, spend a few hours pull weeds or painting cabins, and gain a deeper appreciation for this magnificent terrain in the company of likeminded volunteers. Trip leaders take care of renting the cabins and supervising rides and meals—which can be hard to do from afar. The trip is free, though you will pitch in for shared meals. Be prepared for 4 to 10 miles of hiking in inclement weather. Sign up at ww.fhnp.org.
Continue on to the Haleakala Visitor Center, open daily at sunrise (5:45am–3pm). It offers panoramic views, with photos identifying the various features, and exhibits that explain the area’s history, ecology, geology, and volcanology. Park staff members are often on hand to answer questions. Restrooms and water are available. The actual summit is a little farther on, at Puu Ulaula Overlook (also known as Red Hill), the volcano’s highest point, where you’ll see Haleakala Observatories’ cluster of buildings—known unofficially as Science City. The Puu Ulaula Overlook, with its glass-enclosed windbreak, is a prime viewing spot, crowded with shivering folks at sunrise. It’s also the best place to see a rare silversword. This botanical wonder is the punk of the plant world—like a spacey artichoke with attitude. Silverswords grow only in Hawaii, take from 4 to 30 years to bloom, and then, usually between May and October, send up a 1- to 6-foot stalk covered in multitudes of reddish, sunflower-like blooms. Don’t walk too close to silversword plants, as footfalls can damage their roots.
On your way back down, stop at the Kalahaku Overlook. On a clear day you can see all the way across Alenuihaha Channel to the often snowcapped summit of Mauna Kea on the Big Island. Tip: Put your car in low gear when driving down the Haleakala Crater Road, so you don’t destroy your brakes by riding them the whole way down.
Silversword
East Maui & Heavenly Hana
Hana is about as close as you can get to paradise on Earth. In and around Hana, you’ll find a lush tropical rainforest dotted with cascading waterfalls, trees spilling ripe fruits onto the grass, and the sparkling blue Pacific, skirted by red- and black-sand beaches.
The Road to Hana 
Top down, sunscreen on, Hawaiian music playing on a breezy morning—it’s time to head out along the Hana Highway (Hwy. 36), a wiggle of a road that runs along Maui’s northeastern shore. The drive takes at least 3 hours from Lahaina or Kihei, but don’t shortchange yourself—take all day. Going to Hana is about the journey, not the destination.
There are wilder, steeper, and more dangerous roads, but in all of Hawaii, no road is more celebrated than this one. It winds 50 miles past taro patches, magnificent seascapes, waterfall pools, botanical gardens, and verdant rainforests, and ends at one of Hawaii’s most beautiful tropical places.
The outside world discovered the little village of Hana in 1926, when pickax-wielding convicts carved a narrow road out of the cliff’s edge. Often subject to landslides and washouts, the mud-and-gravel track was paved in 1962, when tourist traffic began to increase; it now sees around 1,000 cars and dozens of vans a day. That translates into half a million people a year, which is way too many. Go at the wrong time, and you’ll be stuck in a bumper-to-bumper rental-car parade—peak traffic hours are midmorning and midafternoon year-round, especially on weekends.
In the rush to “do” Hana in a day, most visitors spin around town in 10 minutes and wonder what all the fuss is about. It takes time to soak up the serene magic of Hana, play in the waterfalls, sniff the rain-misted gingers, hike through clattering bamboo forests, and merge with the tension-dissolving scenery. Stay overnight if you can, and meander back in a day or two. If you really must do the Hana Highway in a day, go just before sunrise and return after sunset.
Tips: Practice aloha. Yield at one-lane bridges, wave at oncoming motorists, let the big guys in 4×4s have the right of way—you’re not in a hurry, after all! If the guy behind you blinks his lights, let him pass. Unless you’re rounding a blind curve, don’t honk your horn—in Hawaii, it’s considered rude. Safety note: Be aware of the weather when hiking in streams. Flash floods happen frequently in this area. Do not attempt to cross rising stream waters. In the words of the Emergency Weather Forecast System: “Turn around. Don’t drown.”
The Journey Begins in Paia Before you start out, fill up on fuel. Paia is the last place for gas until you get to Hana, some 50-plus bridges and 600-plus hairpin turns down the road. (It’s fun to make a game out of counting the bridges.)
Paia 
was once a thriving sugar-mill town. The skeletal mill is still here, but in the 1950s the bulk of the population (10,000 in its heyday) shifted to Kahului. Like so many former plantation towns, Paia nearly foundered, but its beachfront charm lured hippies, followed by adrenaline-seeking windsurfers and, most recently, young families. The town has proven its adaptability. Now trendy boutiques and eateries occupy the old ma-and-pa establishments. Plan to get here early, around 7am, when Charley’s , 142 Hana Hwy. (www.charleysmaui.com 808/579-8085), opens. Enjoy a big, hearty breakfast for a reasonable price or continue down the road to the little town of Kuau. A rainbow fence made of surfboards announces Kuau Store (www.kuaustore.com 808/579-8844), a great stop for smoothies and snacks.
Windsurfing Mecca Just before mile marker 9 is Hookipa Beach Park , where top-ranked windsurfers come to test themselves against thunderous surf and forceful wind. On nearly every windy day after noon (the board surfers have the waves in the morning), you can watch dozens of windsurfers twirling and dancing in the wind like colored butterflies. To watch them, do not stop on the highway, but go past the park and turn left at the entrance on the far side of the beach. Park on the high grassy bluff or drive down to the sandy beach and park alongside the pavilion. Green sea turtles haul out to rest on the east end of the beach. Go spy on them, but stay a respectful distance (15 ft.) away. Facilities include restrooms, a shower, picnic tables, and a barbecue area.
Into the Country Past Hookipa Beach, the road winds down into Maliko Gulch. Big-wave surfers use the boat ramp here to launch jet skis and head out to Jaws, one of the world’s biggest surf breaks a few coves over. Back on the Hana Highway, for the next few miles you’ll pass through the rural area of Haiku, where banana patches and guava trees litter their sweet fruit onto the street.
At mile marker 16, the curves begin, one right after another. Slow down and enjoy the view of fern-covered hills and plunging valleys punctuated by mango and kukui trees. After mile marker 16, the road is still called the Hana Highway, but the number changes from Highway 36 to Highway 360, and the mile markers go back to 0.
Twin Falls Not far beyond mile marker 2, you’ll see a large fruit stand on the mauka (mountain) side of the road—most likely surrounded by lots of cars. This is Twin Falls (www.twinfallsmaui.net; 808/463-1275), a privately owned piece of paradise with more waterfalls than anyone can count. A gravel footpath leads to the first waterfall pool. Continue up the mountain path to find many more. Swimming is safe as long as it’s not raining and you don’t have open wounds. (Bacterial infections aren’t uncommon.) Be respectful of the residents and pack out your trash.
From here on out, there’s a waterfall (and one-lane bridge) around nearly every turn in the road, so drive slowly and be prepared to stop and yield to oncoming cars.
Wild Curves About a half-mile after mile marker 6, there’s a sharp U-curve in the road, going uphill. The road is super narrow here, with a brick wall on one side and virtually no maneuvering room. Sound your horn at the start of the U-curve to let approaching cars know you’re coming. Take the curve slowly.
The road to Hana
Just before mile marker 7, a forest of waving bamboo takes over the right-hand side of the road. To the left, you’ll see a stand of rainbow eucalyptus trees, recognizable by their multicolored trunks. Drivers are often tempted to pull over here, but there isn’t any shoulder. Continue on; you’ll find many more beautiful trees to gawk at down the road.
An Easy Family Hike At mile marker 9, a small state wayside area has restrooms, picnic tables, and a barbecue area. The sign says Koolau Forest Reserve, but the real attraction here is the Waikamoi Nature Trail, an easy ¾-mile loop. The start of the trail is just behind the quiet: trees at work sign. The well-marked trail meanders through eucalyptus, ferns, and hala trees.
Can’t-Miss Photo Ops Just past mile marker 12 is the Kaumahina State Wayside Park . This is a good pit stop and a great vista point. You can see all the way down the rugged coastline to the jutting Keanae Peninsula.
Another mile and a couple of bends in the road, and you’ll enter the Honomanu Valley, with its beautiful bay. To get to the Honomanu Bay, look for the turnoff on your left, just after mile marker 14, as you begin your ascent up the other side of the valley. The rutted dirt-and-cinder road takes you down to the rocky black-sand beach. There are no facilities here. Because of the strong rip currents offshore, swimming is best in the stream inland from the ocean. You’ll consider the detour worthwhile as you stand on the beach, well away from the ocean, and turn to look back on the steep cliffs covered with vegetation.
Windsurfers at Hookipa Beach Park
Keanae Peninsula & Arboretum At mile marker 17, the vintage Hawaiian village of Keanae stands out against the Pacific like a place that time forgot. Here, on an old lava flow graced by an 1860 stone church and swaying palms, is one of the last coastal enclaves of native Hawaiians. They still grow taro in patches and pound it into poi, the staple of the old Hawaiian diet, and they still pluck opihi (limpets) from tide pools along the jagged coast and cast throw nets for fish. Pick up a loaf of still-warm banana bread from Aunty Sandy’s (10 Keanae Rd.).
At nearby Keanae Arboretum, Hawaii’s botanical world is divided into three parts: native forest, introduced forest, and traditional Hawaiian plants, food, and medicine. You can swim in the pools of Piinaau Stream or press on along a mile-long trail into Keanae Valley, where a lovely tropical rainforest waits at the end. Had enough foliage for one day? This is the prime spot to turn around.
Puaa Kaa State Wayside Tourists and locals alike often overlook this convenient stop, a half-mile past mile marker 22. Park by the restrooms; then cross the street to explore a jade green waterfall pool. Break out your picnic lunch here at the shaded tables. Practice saying the park’s name, pronounced pooh-ahh-ahh kahh-ahh, which means “rolling pig.”
For the world’s best dessert (only a slight exaggeration), continue on to Nahiku, near mile marker 27.5 (yes, half-mile markers come into play in this wild territory). You’ll see the rainbow-splashed sign for Coconut Glen’s (www.coconutglens.com; 808/248-4876). Pull over and indulge in some truly splendid ice cream—dairy-free and made with coconut milk. Scoops of chocolate chili, lilikoi (passion fruit), and honey macadamia nut ice cream are served in coconut bowls, with coconut chips as spoons. This whimsical stand oozes with aloha. From here, you’re only 20 minutes from Hana.
Kahanu Gardens & Piilanihale Heiau To see one of Hawaii’s most impressive archaeological sites, take a detour off of Hana Highway down Ulaino Road. The National Tropical Botanical Garden maintains the world’s largest breadfruit collection here—including novel varieties collected from every tropical corner of the globe. Ancient Hawaiian history comes alive when you walk through the manicured canoe garden and first glimpse the monumental 3-acre Piilanihale heaiu (temple). Built 800 years ago from stacked rocks hand-carried from miles away, it is a testament to the great chiefdoms of the past. Gaze in wonder at the 50-foot retaining wall and thatched canoe hale (house). Imagine steering a war canoe onto the wave-swept shore. Take time to soak in the site’s mana (spiritual power). Admission is $10; 2-hour guided tours are $25 (650 Ulaino Rd., Hana; www.ntbg.org; 808/248-8912).
Waianapanapa State Park On the outskirts of Hana, the shiny black-sand beach appears like a vivid dream, with bright-green foliage on three sides and cobalt-blue water lapping at its shore. The 120-acre state park on an ancient lava flow includes sea cliffs, lava tubes, arches, and the beach—plus a dozen rustic cabins. See p. 387 for a review of the cabins. Also see “Beaches” and “Camping,” below.
Hana
Green, tropical Hana, which some call heavenly, is a destination all its own, a small coastal village in a rainforest inhabited by 2,500 people, many with Native Hawaiian ancestry. Beautiful Hana enjoys more than 90 inches of rain a year—more than enough to keep the scenery lush. Banyans, bamboo, breadfruit trees—everything seems larger than life, especially the flowers, like wild ginger and plumeria. Several roadside stands offer exotic blooms for $5 a bunch. As the signs say, just Put Money in Box. It’s the Hana honor system. The best farm stand of the bunch is Hana Farms , 2910 Hana Hwy. ( 808/248-7371; see p. 415 for details).
The last unspoiled Hawaiian town on Maui is, oddly enough, the home of Maui’s first resort, which opened in 1946. Paul Fagan, then owner of the San Francisco Seals baseball team, bought an old inn and turned it into Hana’s first and only resort, now called Travaasa Hana. Others have tried to open hotels and golf courses, but the Hana community always politely refuses. Several great inns are scattered around town, though; see p. 383 for reviews.
A wood-frame 1871 building that served as the old Hana District Police Station now holds the Hana Cultural Center & Museum, 4974 Uakea Rd. (www.hanaculturalcenter.org; 808/248-8622). The center tells the history of the area, with some excellent artifacts, memorabilia, and photographs. Also stop in at Hasegawa General Store, a Maui institution. Buy a T-shirt or bumper sticker and check out the machete display above the office window.
On the green hills above Hana stands a 30-foot-high white cross made of lava rock. Citizens erected the cross in memory of Paul Fagan, who helped keep the town alive. The 3-mile hike up to Fagan’s Cross provides a gorgeous view of the Hana coast, especially at sunset, when Fagan himself liked to climb this hill (see p. 351 for details).
Tropical Haleakala: Oheo Gulch at Kipahulu
If you’re thinking about heading out to the so-called Seven Sacred Pools, past Hana in Kipahulu, let’s clear this up right now: There are more than seven pools—and all water in Hawaii is considered sacred. Oheo Gulch (the rightful name of the pools) is in the Kipahulu district of Haleakala National Park (though you can’t drive here from the summit). It’s about 30 minutes beyond Hana town, along Highway 31. Expect rain showers on the Kipahulu coast.
The Kipahulu Ranger Station ( 808/248-7375) is staffed from 8:30am to 5pm daily. Here you’ll find park-safety information, exhibits, and books. Rangers offer a variety of walks and hikes year-round; check at the station for current activities. The fee to enter is $25 per car or $20 per motorcycle. The Highway 31 bridge passes over some of the pools near the ocean; the others, plus magnificent 400-foot Waimoku Falls, are uphill, via an often muddy but always rewarding hour-long hike. Restrooms are available, but there’s no drinking water. Tent camping is permitted in the park; see “Camping” (p. 386) for details.
Check with park rangers before hiking up to or swimming in the pools, and always keep an eye on the water in the streams. The sky can be sunny near the coast, but floodwaters travel 6 miles down from the Kipahulu Valley, and the water level can rise 4 feet in less than 10 minutes. It’s not a good idea to swim in the pools in winter.
From the ranger station, it’s just a short hike above the famous Oheo Gulch to two spectacular waterfalls. The Pipiwai Trail begins across the street from the central parking area. Follow the trail a half-mile to the Makahiku Falls overlook. This 200-foot-tall beauty is just the beginning. Continue another 1½ miles, across two bridges and through a magical bamboo forest, to reach the dazzling 400-foot-tall Waimoku Falls. It’s an uphill slog across slippery planks, but worth every step. Beware of falling rocks and never stand beneath the falls.
Beyond Oheo Gulch
A mile past Oheo Gulch on the ocean side of the road is Lindbergh’s Grave. First to fly across the Atlantic Ocean, Charles A. Lindbergh found peace in the Pacific; he settled in Hana, where he died of cancer in 1974. The famous aviator is buried under river stones in a seaside graveyard behind the 1857 Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church.
Waimoku Falls trail
Adventurers can continue on around Haleakala, back toward civilization in Kula. Be warned that the route, Old Piilani Highway (Hwy. 31), is full of potholes and unpaved in parts. But it threads through ruggedly beautiful territory. Most rental-car companies warn you against traveling down this road, but it’s really not so bad—just make sure a rockslide hasn’t closed it before you go. If it’s open, stop in for ice cream at Kaupo General Store, 34793 Piilani Hwy. ( 808/248-8054). This remote outpost has a wonderful antique camera collection and many tempting souvenirs.
Organized Tours
Atlantis Submarine TOUR Descend more than 100 feet below the ocean’s surface in air-conditioned comfort aboard this 48-passenger submarine. You’ll see colorful fish, corals, and other marine creatures populating the waters off of Lahaina. Occasionally, eagle rays, white tip sharks, or a rare monk seal will swim past the submerged ship’s windows. Whales have even been known to cruise alongside—filling the cabin with their otherworldly song. One guaranteed highlight is the sunken Carthaginian, a 19th-century replica supply boat that was scuttled to become an artificial reef.
At Pioneer Inn Hotel, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina. www.atlantisadventures.com/maui. 808/667-2494. 105-min. tours offered daily from 9am–2pm. $115 adults, $48 children 12 and under (book online for specials).
Blue Hawaiian Helicopters TOUR Some of Maui’s most spectacular scenery—3,000-foot-tall waterfalls thundering away in the chiseled heart of the West Maui Mountains, say, or Piilanihale, an impressive 3-acre heaiu (temple) hidden away in Hana—can only be seen from the air. Blue Hawaiian can escort you there on one of their two types of helicopters: A-star or Eco-Star. Both are good, but the latter is worth the extra cash for its bucket seats (raised in the rear) and wraparound windows. Tours range from 30-minute flyovers to 2-hour excursions exploring Maui and Molokai or the Big Island. Be aware that if you visit another island, a good portion of the tour will be over ocean—not much to see. The 65-minute Complete Island Tour is the best value, especially if it’s been raining and the waterfalls are gushing. After exploring West Maui, your pilot will flirt at the edges of Haleakala National Park so you can peer into the crater’s paint-box colors, and then zip over Oprah’s organic farm in Kula. Tip: Seats in the back can actually be better for photos, since you can press camera up to window. Wear plain, dark colors so your clothing doesn’t reflect off the glass.
1 Kahului Airport Rd., Kahului. www.bluehawaiian.com. 800/745-2583 or 808/871-8844. Flight times range 30–90 min. and cost $153–$510. Parking & flight video extra.
Maui Nei Native Expeditions TOUR Discover the royal and supernatural history of Lahaina on this fascinating 2-hour walking tour. Your native Hawaiian kumu, or guide, will chant, tell stories, and reveal obscure sites of great import to the Hawaiian monarchy. If you haven’t viewed the queen’s birthing stone or visited the former home of a powerful lizard goddess, you haven’t really seen Lahaina. Tours support the restoration of Mokuula, one of the most significant archaeological sites in all of Hawaii—currently hidden beneath an unused ball field.
505 Front St., Lahaina. www.mauinei.com. 808/283-4201. 2-hour tour $50.
Maui Farms: stop & smell the lavender
Idyllic farms abound across Maui. Many open their doors to visitors and have terrific island-grown products for purchase. To spend the day farm-hopping, join Marilyn Jansen Lopes and her husband, Rick. The sweet, knowledgeable guides of Maui Country Farm Tours 
(www.mauicountryfarmtours.com; 808/283-9131) offer an overview of Valley Isle agriculture and regale guests with anecdotes and extra treats along the way. They share their love of Maui plus historic background of the island’s sugar mills, coffee plantations, family farms, and vineyards. Tours in eight-seat, air-conditioned buses start at $160 and include lunch. Their Halfway to Hana tour features tropical fruit tasting and waterfall dips when weather allows.
If you want to explore Maui’s upcountry farms on your own, start by taking a detour on wild Omaopio Road to meet the frisky kids at the sweet, off-the-beaten-path Surfing Goat Dairy (3651 Omaopio Rd., Kula; www.surfinggoatdairy.com; 808/878-2870; Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–2pm). When you spot the surfboard nailed to the tree, you’ll know you’re close. Daily farm tours are $12 adults and $8 for kids. Book in advance if you want to help with evening chores—milking mama goats (Mon–Sat 3:15pm; $17 adults, $14 children). Cheese aficionados will appreciate the Grand Dairy Tours: 2 hours of cheese-making and sampling the farm’s award-winning chèvre, quarks, and truffles.
Never heard of a vodka farm? Neither had I until Ocean Organic Vodka (4051 Omaopio Rd., Kula; www.oceanvodka.com; 808/877-0009) opened just below Surfing Goat Dairy. Sustainably harvested organic sugarcane is blended with deep ocean mineral water to make fine-quality liquor. See how it’s done at this solar-powered distillery halfway up the leeward slope of Haleakala. (The views alone are worth the price of admission.) Fun and informative tours are $12 a person (ages 12 and up). Lunch ($27) can be added with 24-hour advance notice. Those 21 and over can sample various spirits (and vodka-filled truffles!) and take home a souvenir shot glass. It’s open daily 9:30am to 5pm.
Stop and smell the Alii Kula Lavender (1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula; www.aliikulalavender.com; 808/878-3004), at this gorgeous property set high up on the leeward slope of Haleakala. On the 30-minute walking tour (5 tours daily; $12 with advance reservation), you can sniff multiple varieties of lavender and tropical flowers and leave with a fragrant bouquet. The store is chock-full of great culinary products (lavender seasonings, honey, jelly, and teas) and bath and body goodies (the salve is a lifesaver). General admission is $3; lunches and/or treasure hunts for kids can be arranged with 24-hour notice.
Also on Waipoli Road, O’o Farm 
(651 Waipoli Rd., Kula; www.oofarm.com; 808/667-4341) hosts scrumptious seed-to-cup breakfast tours and gourmet lunches. It’s pure delight to stroll through the 8½-acre citrus and coffee orchard and biodynamic farm, which was planted to supply the owners’ West side restaurants: Pacifico, Feast at Lele and Aina Gourmet Market. Pluck your own coffee beans, learn how ripe cherries become drinkable roasts, and then settle under the vine-covered canopy for a feast. Chef Daniel Eskelsen makes magic happen with his outdoor wood-burning oven, delivering dish after mouth-watering dish to the rustic table. The focaccia with Hawaiian sea salt is worth the price of admission all by itself. It’s BYOB and costs $58—well worth it if you make this your main meal of the day. Bring sun protection, a light jacket, walking shoes, and your camera. The views from this elevation are stellar.
Temptation Tours TOUR If you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, this tour company will chauffeur you to Maui’s top sites in a comfy deluxe van—much more luxurious than the large, crowded buses used by other agencies. Book a pre-dawn trip to the summit of Haleakala to witness the sunrise (followed by tasting tours at Surfing Goat Dairy and Ocean Organic Vodka; see below) or a picnic out in Hana. You’ll pass numerous waterfalls and stop often, but don’t expect to swim or get muddy hiking. The Hana Sky-Trek is actually a pretty great value; the 6-hour adventure starts with a drive (and swim stops) along the lush East Maui coast to Hana, where you board a helicopter for a scenic flight back home over hidden waterfalls and Haleakala National Park. The eight-person vans are safe and roomy, tour guides are generally knowledgeable, and the chicken wraps, seared ono, and brownies for lunch are tasty.
www.temptationtours.com. 800/817-1234 or 808/878-8888. All-day tours $225–$386. Free hotel pickup.
Unique Maui Tours TOUR If you want to see Maui from a local’s perspective, hop into “Ella,” your luxury chariot for a day of sweet, sweaty, muddy adventure. As you cruise around the island, you’ll stop frequently to swim in waterfalls, hike up scenic ridges, and splash through secluded tide pools. Delphine Berbigier is an experienced guide who shares her enthusiasm with on small, personalized tours. For a memorable night, book a full moon hike!
www.uniquemauitours.com. 844/550-6284. All-day tours $595 for 1–2 people, $79 per additional guest. Free hotel pickup.
West Maui
Kaanapali Beach
Four-mile-long Kaanapali is one of Maui’s most famous beaches. Recent storm events have shrunk its sugary golden expanse, though you’ll still find somewhere to plunk down a towel. A paved walkway links hotels, open-air restaurants, and the Whalers Village shopping center. Summertime swimming is excellent. The best snorkeling is around Black Rock, in front of the Sheraton, where the water is clear, calm, and populated with clouds of tropical fish. Facilities include outdoor showers; you can also use the restrooms at the hotel pools. Various watersports outfitters and beach vendors line up in front of the hotels. Turn off Honoapiilani Highway into the Kaanapali Resort. Parking can be a problem—the free public access lots are small and hard to find. Look for the blue shoreline access signs at the Hyatt’s southernmost lot, between Whalers Village and the Westin, and just before the Sheraton. Otherwise, park (for top dollar) at the mall or any resort.
Kahekili Beach Park
Off Puukolii Road in Kaanapali and often referred to as “North Kaanapali” or “Airport Beach,” this park gets top marks for everything: grassy lawn with a pavilion and palm trees, plenty of soft sand, and a vibrant coral reef a few fin-kicks from shore. Herbivorous fish (surgeonfish and rainbow-colored parrotfish) are off-limits to fishermen here, so the snorkeling is truly excellent. Facilities include picnic tables, barbecues, showers, restrooms, and parking. On a stretch of coast where parking is often a problem, this park with its big shady lot is a gem.
Kapalua Beach
This beach cove is the stuff of dreams: a golden crescent bordered by two palm-studded points. The sandy bottom slopes gently to deep water at the bay mouth; the water’s so clear that you can see it turn to green and then deep blue. Protected from strong winds and currents by the lava-rock promontories, Kapalua’s calm waters are ideal for swimmers of all abilities. The bay is big enough to paddle a kayak around in without getting into the more challenging channel that separates Maui from Molokai. Fish hang out by the rocks, making it decent for snorkeling. The sandy strip isn’t so wide that you burn your feet getting in or out of the water, and it’s edged by a shady path and cool lawns. Access the beach via a small tunnel beside Merriman’s restaurant. Parking is limited to about 30 spaces in a small lot off Lower Honoapiilani Road by Napili Kai Beach Resort, so arrive early. Facilities include showers, restrooms, lifeguards, a rental shack, and plenty of shade.
Bodysurfing
South Maui
Wailea’s beaches may seem off limits, hidden from plain view as they are by an intimidating wall of luxury resorts, but all are open to the public. Look for the shoreline access signs along Wailea Alanui Drive, the resort’s main boulevard.
Kamaole III Beach Park
Three beach parks—Kamaole I, II, and III—stand like golden jewels in the front yard of suburban Kihei. This trio is popular with local residents and visitors alike because each is easily accessible and all three have shady lawns. On weekends, they’re jam-packed with picnickers, swimmers, and snorkelers. The most popular is Kamaole III, or “Kam-3.” It’s the biggest of the three beaches, with wide pockets of gold sand, a huge grassy lawn, and a children’s playground. Swimming is safe here, but scattered lava rocks are toe-stubbers at the water line. Both the North and South Shores are rocky fingers with a surge big enough to attract fish and snorkelers; the winter waves appeal to bodysurfers. Kam-3 is also a wonderful place to watch the sunset. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and lifeguards. There’s plenty of parking on South Kihei Road across from the Maui Parkshore condos.
Keawakapu Beach Park
You can’t see this mile-long beauty from the road, so keep an eye out for the blue shoreline-access signs as you head toward Wailea on South Kihei Road. The long expanse of soft, white-gold sand has more than enough room for the scores of people who come here to stroll and swim. Clear, aquamarine waves tumble to shore—just the right size for gentle riding, with or without a board. During winter, mama whales come in close to give birth and teach their calves the finer points of whale acrobatics. Dip your head underwater to eavesdrop on the humpbacks’ songs. At any time of year, gorge yourself on phenomenal sunsets. The beach has three separate entrances: The first is an unpaved lot just past the Mana Kai Maui hotel, the second is a shady paved lot at the corner of South Kihei Road and Kilohana Drive (cross the street to the beach), and the third is a large lot at the terminus of South Kihei Road. Facilities include restrooms (at the third entrance only), showers, and parking.
Ulua Beach
Ulua’s golden stretch of sand is popular with sunbathers, snorkelers, and scuba divers alike. Some of Wailea’s best snorkeling is found on the adjoining reef. The ocean bottom is shallow and gently slopes down to deeper waters, making swimming generally safe. In high season (Christmas–Mar and June–Aug), it’s carpeted with beach towels and packed with sunbathers like sardines in cocoa butter. Facilities include showers and restrooms. Beach equipment can be rented at the nearby Wailea Ocean Activity Center. Look for the blue shoreline access sign on Wailea Alanui Drive near the Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa.
Wailea Beach
Brigades of resort umbrellas and beach chairs make it challenging to appreciate this beach’s pristine beauty. It’s the front yard of the Four Seasons and the Grand Wailea, and hotel staff makes plenty use of the deep sand. Still, the view out to sea is magnificent, framed by neighboring Kahoolawe, Lanai, and the tiny crescent of Molokini. From shore, you can see Pacific humpback whales in season (Dec–Mar) and unreal sunsets nightly. Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers, and limited free parking at the blue shoreline access sign, just south of the Grand Wailea on Wailea Alanui Drive.
Maluaka Beach
For a less crowded beach experience, head south. Development falls off dramatically as you travel toward Makena and its wild, dry countryside of thorny kiawe trees. Maluaka Beach is notable for its serene beauty and its views of Molokini Crater, the offshore islet, and Kahoolawe, the so-called “target” island (it was used as a bombing target from 1945 until the early 1990s). This sandy, sun-kissed crescent is bound on one end by a grassy knoll and has little shade, so bring your own umbrella. Swimming is idyllic here, where the water is calm and sea turtles paddle by. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and parking. Along Makena Alanui, turn right on Makena Road, and head down to the shore.
Makena State Beach Park (Big Beach)
One of the most popular beaches on Maui, Makena is so vast it never feels crowded. Locals call it “Big Beach”—it’s more than 100 feet wide and stretches out 3,300 feet from Puu Olai, the 360-foot cinder cone on its north end to its southern rocky point. The golden sand is luxuriant, deep, and soft, but the shorebreak is steep and powerful. Many a visitor has broken an arm in the surf here. If you’re an inexperienced swimmer, better to watch the pros shred waves on skimboards. Facilities are limited to portable toilets, but there’s plenty of parking and lifeguards at the first two entrances. Dolphins often frequent these waters, and nearly every afternoon a heavy cloud rolls in, providing welcome relief from the sun.
If you clamber up Puu Olai, you’ll find Little Beach on the other side, a small crescent of sand where assorted nudists work on their all-over tans in defiance of the law. The shoreline doesn’t drop off quite so steeply here, and bodysurfing is terrific—no pun intended.
Upcountry & East Maui
Hookipa Beach Park
Hookipa means “hospitality,” and this sandy beach on Maui’s north shore certainly rolls out the red carpet out for waveriders. Two miles past Paia on the Hana Highway, it’s among the world’s top spots for windsurfing and kiting—thanks to tradewinds that kick up whitecaps offshore. Hookipa offers no less than five surf breaks, and daring watermen and -women paddle out to carve waves up to 25 feet tall. Voyeurs are welcome as well; the cliff-top parking lot has a bird’s-eye view. On flat days, snorkelers explore the reef’s treasure trove of marine life: Gentle garden eels wave below the surface. Sea turtles hunt for jellyfish and haul out by the dozens to nap on the sand. More than once, a rare Hawaiian monk seal has popped ashore during a surf contest. Facilities include restrooms, showers, pavilions, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and parking.
Makena Beach
H. P. Baldwin Beach Park
This beach park draws lots of locals: dog walkers, yoga enthusiasts, boogie boarders, fishermen, and young families. The far ends of the beach are safest for swimming: “the cove” in the lee of the rocks at the north end, and “baby beach” at the south end, where an exposed reef creates a natural sandy swimming pool—often with a current that’s fun to swim against. Facilities include a pavilion with picnic tables, barbecue grills, restrooms, showers, a semipaved parking area, a soccer field, and lifeguards. The park is busy on weekends and late afternoons; mornings and weekdays are much quieter. Heading east on Hana Highway, turn left at the soccer field just before reaching Paia.
Waianapanapa State Park
Jet-black sand, a cave pool, sea arches, blowholes, and historic hala groves: This dramatic 120-acre beach park offers many jewels. Listen to the lava boulders wash up in the foamy surf. Swim with caution; the sea here is churned by strong waves and rip currents. Watch the seabirds circle the offshore islet. Follow moss-covered stone steps through the tunnel of hau branches and dare yourself to plunge into the chilly freshwater cave. These are experiences that will make a deep impression on your psyche. Waianapanapa offers wonderful shoreline hikes and picnicking spots. You can follow the coastal trail for a long distance in both directions from the parking lot. Facilities include picnic tables, barbecue grills, restrooms, showers, tent sites, and 12 cabins (p. 387).
James Michener called Hamoa “a beach so perfectly formed that I wonder at its comparative obscurity.” Viewed from above, this half-moon-shaped, gray-sand beach is vision of paradise. The wide stretch of sand (a mix of coral and lava) is three football fields long and sits below 30-foot black-lava sea cliffs. Swells on this unprotected beach break offshore and roll in, making it a popular surfing and bodysurfing area. Hamoa is often swept by powerful rip currents, so take care. The calm left side is best for snorkeling in summer. Travaasa Hana resort has numerous facilities for guests, plus outdoor showers and restrooms for nonguests. Parking is limited. Look for the Hamoa Beach turnoff from Hana Highway.
The watersports options on Maui are mind-boggling—from lazy snorkeling to high-energy kitesurfing and everything in between. Colorful, fish-filled reefs are easily accessible, often from a sandy beach.
You’ll find rental gear and ocean toys all over the island. Most seaside hotels and resorts are stocked with watersports equipment (complimentary or rentals), from snorkels to kayaks to Hobies. Snorkel Bob’s (www.snorkelbob.com) rents snorkel gear, boogie boards, wetsuits, and more at numerous locations: At Napili Bay, 5425 C Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina ( 808/669-9603); 1217 Front St. (behind Cannery Mall), Lahaina ( 808/661-4421); 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy. #201 (Near Times Supermarket), Honokowai ( 808/667-9999); in Azeka’s II Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei ( 808/875-6188); 2411 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei ( 808/879-7449); and 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea ( 808/874-0011). All locations are open daily from 8am to 5pm. If you’re island-hopping, you can rent from a Snorkel Bob’s location on one island and return to a branch on another.
Boss Frog’s Dive, Surf, and Bike Shops (www.bossfrog.com) has eight locations for snorkel, boogie board, longboard, and stand-up paddleboard rentals and other gear, including these locations: 150 Lahainaluna Rd. in Lahaina ( 808/661-3333); 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. in Kaanapali ( 808/665-1200); Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St. in Napili ( 808/669-4949); and 1215 S. Kihei Rd. ( 808/891-0077), 1770 S. Kihei Rd. ( 808/874-5225), and Dolphin Plaza, 2395 S. Kihei Rd. ( 808/875-4477) in Kihei. Their $30 weekly snorkel rentals are the best deal.
Boating
You’ll need a boat to visit the crescent-shaped islet Molokini, one of the best snorkel and scuba spots in Hawaii. Trips to the island of Lanai (see chapter 8) are also popular for a day of snorkeling. Bring a towel, a swimsuit, sunscreen, and a hat on a snorkel cruise; everything else is usually included. If you’d like to go a little deeper than snorkeling allows, consider trying SNUBA, a shallow-water diving system in which you are connected by a 20-foot air hose to an air tank that floats on a raft at the water’s surface. Most of these snorkel boats offer it for an additional cost; it’s usually around $60 for a half-hour or so. No certification is required for SNUBA. For fishing charters, see “Sport Fishing,” below.
Maui Classic Charters TOUR Maui Classic Charters offers morning and afternoon snorkel cruises to Molokini on Four Winds II, a 55-foot glass-bottom catamaran. Rates for the morning sail are $105 for adults, $75 for children 3 to 12; continental breakfast and barbecue lunch are available for purchase. The afternoon sail is a steal at $49; though the captain usually only visits Coral Gardens, which is accessible from shore. All Four Winds trips include complimentary beer, wine, and soda; snorkeling gear and instruction; and sport fishing along the way. Those hoping to catch sight of dolphins should book a trip on the state-of-the-art catamaran Maui Magic. A 5-hour snorkel journey to both Molokini and Makena costs $120 for adults, $90 for children 5 to 12, and includes continental breakfast; a barbecue lunch; beer, wine, and soda; snorkel gear; and instruction.
Maalaea Harbor, slip 55 and slip 80. www.mauicharters.com. 800/736-5740 or 808/879-8188. Prices vary depending on cruise; check website for discounts.
Pacific Whale Foundation TOUR This not-for-profit foundation supports its whale research, public education, and conservation programs by offering whale-watch cruises, wild dolphin encounters, and snorkel tours, some to Molokini, Honolua, and Lanai. Numerous daily trips are offered out of both Lahaina and Maalaea harbors. Two special tours include the Island Rhythms Sunset Cruise with Eric Gilliom (a honey-voiced local entertainer who woos whales with rollicking tunes) and stargazing cruises with Harriet Witt, a wonderful astronomer and storyteller.
300 Maalaea Rd., Suite 211, Wailuku. (Also: Lahaina Ocean Store, 612 Front St., Lahaina.) www.pacificwhale.org. 800/942-5311 or 808/249-8811. Trips from $33 adults, $20 children 7–12, free for 1 child 6 and under per adult; snorkeling cruises from $93 adults, $35 children. Book online for a 10% discount.
Scotch Mist Sailing Charters TOUR This 50-foot Santa Cruz sailboat offers intimate, exhilarating 4-hour snorkel-sail cruises, limited to 25 passengers. You’ll visit the glittering outer reefs at Olowalu. Rates ($109 ages 13 and up, $55 kids 5–12) include a fruit platter and beverages, gear, and instruction. The evening champagne sunset cruises ($70 13 and up; $35 children 5–12) are an elegant, gorgeous way to end the day, especially during winter when they double as a whale watch. Note: No children under 5 allowed unless the whole boat is chartered.
Lahaina Harbor, slip 2. www.scotchmistsailingcharters.com. 808/661-0386. Prices vary depending on cruise, starting at $60.
Trilogy Excursions TOUR Trilogy offers my favorite snorkel-sail trips. The family-run company prioritizes environmental stewardship—along with ensuring you have a stellar marine adventure. Hop aboard one of Trilogy’s fleet of custom-built catamarans, from 54 to 65 feet long, for a 9-mile Maui-to-Lanai sail from Lahaina Harbor to Hulopoe Marine Preserve and a fun-filled day of sailing and snorkeling. This is the only cruise that offers a personalized ground tour of the island and the only one with rights to take you to Hulopoe Beach. The full-day trip costs $205 for adults, $153 ages 13 to 18, and $100 for kids 3 to 12.
Trilogy also offers snorkel-sail trips to Molokini. This half-day trip leaves from Maalaea Harbor and costs $135 for adults, $101 for teens, and $68 for kids 3 to 12. These are the most expensive sail-snorkel cruises on Maui, but they’re worth every penny. The crews are fun and knowledgeable, and the boats are comfortable and well equipped. All trips include breakfast (Mom’s homemade cinnamon buns) and a very good barbecue lunch (onboard on the half-day trip; on land on the Lanai trip). During winter, 2-hour whale watches depart conveniently right from the sand on Kaanapali Beach ($59 adults, $44 teens, $30 children).
The Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail is a romantic adults-only adventure. Couples enjoy a four-course feast at private, candlelit tables, complete with handcrafted cocktails and cozy blankets ($129 per person).
www.sailtrilogy.com. 888/225-MAUI or 808/874-5649. Prices and departure points vary depending on cruise.
Day Cruises to Lanai
You can visit the island of Lanai by booking a trip with Trilogy (see above) or by taking the passenger ferry.
Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry FERRY The cheapest way to reach Lanai is via ferry, which runs five times a day, 365 days a year. It leaves Lahaina at 6:45 and 9:15am, and 12:45, 3:15, and 5:45pm; the return ferry from Lanai’s Manele Bay leaves at 8 and 10:30am, and at 2, 4:30, and 6:45pm. The 9-mile channel crossing takes between 45 minutes and an hour, depending on sea conditions. Reservations are strongly recommended. During winter, the trip doubles as a whale watch. You can walk from the harbor to Hulopoe Beach, but if you want to explore the island further, you’ll have to rent a car or book a tour. See p. 461 in chapter 8 for details.
Ferries depart from Lahaina Harbor; office: 658 Front St., Suite 127, Lahaina. www.go-lanai.com. 800/695-2624 or 808/661-3756. Round-trip fares from Maui to Lanai $60 adults, $40 children 2–11.
Ocean Kayaking
Numerous companies launch kayak tours from South and West Maui beaches. Some are definitely better than others—the difference being the personal attention from the guides and their level of experience. Kayaking can be a slog if you have to keep up with your guide, rather than paddle alongside someone who shares local knowledge. My favorite operator, Hawaiian Paddle Sports (www.hawaiianpaddlesports.com; 808/875-4848) launches trips from Makena, Olowalu or Honolua Bay. The trips are pricy but private, starting at $149 per person for 2-4 guests. But you will get a wildlife adventure like no other, with a personal guide ready to point out snowflake eels hiding in the coral, guide you to hidden caverns, and shoot photos of you swimming with sea turtles.
Aloha Kayaks Maui (www.alohakayaksmaui.com; 808/270-3318) is both excellent and more affordable, with trips starting at $95 for a max of eight people. Professional, informative, and eco-aware guides lead 3-hour trips that launch from Makena Landing (secluded coves with underwater arches and caves) or Olowalu (vibrant coral reefs and possible manta ray sightings). During whale season, guides can steer you towards the gentle giants for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter.
Outrigger Canoe
Outrigger canoes are much revered in Hawaiian culture, and several hotels—among them, the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui and the Andaz Maui—offer this wonderful cultural activity right off the beach. If you want to give paddling a try, expect to work as a team with five other paddlers. Your guide and steersman will show you how to haul the sleek boat into the water, properly enter and exit the boat, and paddle for maximum efficiency.
Hawaiian Paddle Sports CANOE TOUR For an intimate adventure on the great blue, book an outrigger canoe trip with Hawaiian Paddle Sports. Learn how to paddle in sync with your family or friends, just as the ancient Polynesians did when colonizing these islands. You’ll visit some of Maui’s very best snorkel spots: Makena Landing or the outer reef at Olowalu. The owner, Tim Lara, is one of the best in the business, brimming with knowledge about the island’s culture, history, and marine life. When turtles, whales, manta rays, or monk seals surface alongside your canoe, you’ll feel like a National Geographic explorer. And you’ll have the pictures to prove it. Lara’s guides are whizzes with a GoPro camera; after the trip they’ll send you under- and above-water shots guaranteed to dazzle your friends. If you’re feeling sporty, book a canoe surfing trip and race down the face of breaking waves. Hawaiian Paddle Sports also offers kayak tours, and surf and SUP instruction.
Departs from various locations. www.hawaiianpaddlesports.com. 808/442-6436. $149–$199 per person. Prices drop for groups.
Ocean Rafting
If you’re semi-adventurous and looking for a wetter, wilder experience, try ocean rafting. The inflatable rafts hold 6 to 24 passengers. Tours usually include snorkeling and coastal cruising. Pregnant women and people with back problems are advised to avoid. During winter, these maneuverable boats offer exciting whale-watching tours.
Captain Steve’s Rafting Excursions (www.captainsteves.com; 808/667-5565) offers 7-hour snorkel trips from Mala Wharf in Lahaina to the waters around Lanai (you don’t actually land on the island). Dolphin sightings are almost guaranteed on these action-packed excursions. Discounted online rates of $135 for adults and $95 for children 5 to 12 include continental breakfast, deli-style lunch, snorkel gear, and wet suits.
One of the most reasonable outfitters is Hawaii Ocean Rafting (www.hawaiioceanrafting.com; 808/661-7238), which operates out of Lahaina Harbor and zips out towards Lanai. The best deal is the 4.5-hour morning tour ($85 adults, $72 children 5–12); it includes three snorkeling stops and time spent watching for dolphins, plus continental breakfast and midmorning snacks. Check the website for discounts.
Scuba Diving
Maui offers plenty of undersea attractions worth strapping on a tank for. Most divers start with Molokini (see “Snorkeling,” below). In addition to the popular basin, experienced divers can explore the crater’s dramatic back wall , which plunges 350 feet and is frequented by larger marine animals and schools of rare butterflyfish. Other top sites include Mala Wharf, the St. Anthony (a sunken longliner), and Five Graves at Makena Landing. Don’t be scared off by the latter’s ominous name—it’s a magical spot with sea caves and arches.
Ed Robinson’s Diving Adventures DIVE COMPANY Ed Robinson, a widely published underwater photographer, offers specialized charters for small groups. Two-tank dives are $145 ($168 with all the gear). The check-in for the dive is at 165 Halekuai St. in Kihei, and the boat departs from the Kihei Boat Ramp.
165 Halekuai St., Kihei. www.mauiscuba.com. 808/879-3584.
Maui Dreams Dive Company DIVE COMPANY Run by husband-and-wife team Rachel and Don Domingo, this is the best full-service dive operation on the island. Stop in at their South Maui shop, and you might just end up scuba certified ($420 for a 3-day course). The skilled dive masters and instructors are so fun that they make every aspect of getting geared up to go underwater enjoyable. You don’t need certification for an intro shore dive at Ulua Beach ($69), but you do for a two-tank adventure to Molokini aboard the Maui Diamond II ($159). Captain Don regales his passengers with jokes, snacks, and local trivia. Rachel has a knack for finding camouflaged frogfish on the reef. Even experienced divers will be dazzled by the guided scooter dives ($99–$129). The rideable rockets allow you to zip along the ocean’s floor and visit sunken World War II wrecks, caves, and turtle-cleaning stations. The community-minded Domingos host regular reef cleanups, pirate- and princess-themed dives, and underwater Easter egg hunts.
1993 S. Kihei Rd. www.mauidreamsdiveco.com. 808/874-5332.
Mike Severns Diving DIVE COMPANY For personalized diving tours on a 38-foot Munson/Hammerhead boat (with a freshwater shower), call Pauline Fiene at Mike Severns Diving. She and her fellow dive masters lead trips for a maximum of 12 people, divided into two groups of six. Exploring the underwater world is educational and fun with Fiene, a biologist who has authored several spectacular marine-photography books and leads dives during coral spawning events. She’s particularly knowledgeable about nudibranchs, two of which have been named for her, Hallaxa paulinae and Hypselodoris paulinae. Two-tank dives are $145, including equipment rental, or $139 if you bring all your own equipment. Experienced divers can rent underwater cameras and tag along behind the pro photographers. Trips depart from Kihei Boat Ramp.
www.mikesevernsdiving.com. 808/879-6596.
Hawaiian green sea turtles
Snorkeling on Maui is easy—there are so many great spots where you can just wade in the water with a mask and look down and see tropical fish. If you haven’t snorkeled before, or are a little rusty, practice breathing through your snorkel before you get out on the water. Mornings are best; blustery trade winds kick in around noon. Maui’s best snorkeling spots include Ulua and Mokapu Beaches in Wailea; Olowalu along the Honoapiilani Highway; Black Rock at the north end of Kaanapali Beach; and, just beyond Black Rock, Kahekili Beach .
Three truly terrific snorkel spots are difficult to get to but rewarding—they’re home to Hawaii’s tropical marine life at its best:
Ahihi-Kinau Natural Preserve NATURAL ATTRACTION This 2,000-acre state natural area reserve in the lee of Cape Kinau, on Maui’s rugged south coast, is home to bejeweled Ahihi Bay. It was here that Haleakala spilled its last red-hot lava into the sea, so the entrance to the ocean is sharp and rocky. Ease into the water to see brilliant corals and abundant fish. Fishing is strictly forbidden, and the fish know it; they’re everywhere in this series of rocky coves and black-lava tide pools. To get here, drive south of Makena and watch for signs. A state naturalist is often on-site to offer advice. Note: The Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources has temporarily restricted access to portions of the popular and heavily used preserve. Visit www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dofaw for details.
Honolua Bay NATURAL ATTRACTION The snorkeling in this wide, secluded bay is worth the drive out to West Maui’s far corner. Spectacular coral formations glitter beneath the surface. Turtles, rays, and a variety of snappers and goatfish cruise along beside you. In the crevices are eels, lobster, and rainbow-hued fish. Dolphins sometimes come here to rest. Follow Honoapiilani Highway past Kapalua to mile marker 32. Follow the dirt path through the dense forest to the sea.
Molokini NATURAL ATTRACTION A sunken crater that sits like a crescent moon fallen from the sky, almost midway between Maui and the uninhabited island of Kahoolawe, Molokini stands like a scoop against the tide. This offshore site is very popular, thanks to astounding visibility (you can often peer down 100 ft.) and an abundance of marine life, from manta rays to clouds of yellow butterflyfish. On its concave side, Molokini serves as a natural sanctuary and preserve for tropical fish. Molokini is accessible only by boat, and snorkelers commute here daily in a fleet of dive boats. See “Boating,” above, for outfitters that can take you here. Expect crowds in high season.
Sport Fishing
The best way to reserve a sport-fishing charter is through the experts; the top booking desk in the state is Sportfish Hawaii (www.sportfishhawaii.com; 877/388-1376), which books boats on all the islands. These fishing vessels have been inspected and must meet rigorous criteria to guarantee that you’ll have a great time. Prices start at $1,095 for a full-day exclusive charter (meaning you, plus five friends, get the entire boat to yourself); it’s $699 for a half-day exclusive. Bottom-fishing trips for delicious snappers run $149 per adult; you’ll share the boat with up to nine other anglers.
Stand-up Paddling (SUP) & Surfing
If you want to learn to surf, the best beginners’ spots are Charley Young Cove in Kihei (the far north end of Kalama Beach Park), the break in front of 505 Front Street in Lahaina, and several breaks along Honoapiilani Highway, including Ukumehame. The first two are the most convenient, with surf schools nearby. The breaks along Honoapiilani Highway tend to be longer, wider, and less crowded—perfect if you’re confident enough to go solo.
During summer, gentle swells roll in long and slow along the South Shore. It’s the best time to practice your stance on a longboard. During winter, the North Shore becomes the playground for adrenaline junkies who drop in on thundering waves 30 feet tall and higher. If you want to watch, head to Hookipa or Honolua Bay, where you can view the action from a cliff above.
Stand-up paddling (SUP) is one of Hawaii’s oldest and newest ocean sports. Practiced by ancient Hawaiian kings, it’s now back in fashion. You can SUP just about anywhere you can surf—and more, since you don’t need a swell to get going, just a wide board and paddle, strong arms, and some balance. (And if you lack the latter two, willingness will make up for it.) Gliding over the fish-filled reefs with an unobstructed view of the islands on the horizon is a top-notch experience. Experienced watermen/women can rent a full range of surf, windsurf, and stand-up paddle boards from Maui Windsurf Company, 22 Hana Hwy., Kahului (www.mauiwindsurfcompany.com; 808/877-4816).
Maui Surfer Girls SURF INSTRUCTION Despite its name, MSG offers coed surf and SUP instruction for groms and Betties alike. Owner Dustin Tester is a big-wave surf pioneer; she’s among the first women to charge “Jaws,” one of the planet’s biggest breaks, and her commitment to helping others shred waves is inspirational. (She even coached her dog Luna to hang ten alongside her.) Personalized lessons at Ukumehame Beach Park with Tester or her teammates start at $89. But MSG’s best offering is the weeklong surf camp. If you’ve got a teen girl who dreams of growing gills, sign her up for 7 saltwater-soaked days full of watersports, camaraderie, healthy food, island adventures, and campfire counsel. The Olowalu Campground serves as headquarters for a transformational experience.
www.mauisurfergirls.com. 808/201-6879.
Maui Stand Up Paddle Boarding SURF INSTRUCTION Get up on a board and “walk on water” with a private SUP lesson or guided tour ($199 for one person, $139 for two or more). Adventures start out with an overview of paddling techniques on shore, then you’ll launch into the water at Makena Landing or Olowalu for two salty hours. (Wear a water-friendly hat and sunglasses.) During whale season, you might be surprised by the exhalation of a mighty humpback nearby. Your instructor will snap action shots of you and deliver them by the day’s end. The company also rents NAISH inflatable boards for $55 per day.
27-B Halekaui St. Kihei. www.mauistanduppaddleboarding.com. 808/568-0151.
Maui Surf Clinics SURF INSTRUCTION One of Maui’s oldest surf schools is just steps away from the reliable break at 505 Front Street. Paddle out to the swell and your instructor will cheer you on as you hang ten for the first time. It’s $85 per person for a 2-hour group lesson; private classes are $170. All instructors are lifeguard certified.
505 Front St., Suite 224B, Lahaina. www.mauisurfclinics.com. 808/244-SURF [7873].
Zack Howard Surf SURF INSTRUCTION Zack is a lifelong waterman who will help you stand up and surf—even on your very first wave. While most surf schools take newbies out into the crowded breaks at Charley Young in Kihei or the Lahaina Breakwall, Zack steers beginning students into the surf at Ukumehame, a gentle, consistent rolling break alongside Honoapiilani Highway. He also helps intermediate surfers sharpen their skills at world-famous Hookipa. In between swells, Zack offers tips on how to improve your stance and technique. Lessons start at $100 per person for 1½ hours.
www.zackhowardsurf.com. 808/214-7766.
Whale-Watching
Maui is a favorite with Hawaiian humpback whales, who get downright frisky in the surrounding waters from about November to May (though Jan and Feb are the peak months). Seeing the massive marine mammals leap out of the sea or perfect their tail slap is mesmerizing. You can hear them sing underwater, too! Just duck your head a foot below the surface and listen for creaks, groans, and otherworldly serenades.
Whale-Watching from Shore Just look out to sea anytime during the winter months. There’s no best time of day, but it seems that when the sea is glassy and there’s no wind, the whales appear. Others claim the opposite: that whales are most active when the water is pocked with whitecaps.
Good whale-watching spots on Maui include:
McGregor Point On the way to Lahaina, there’s a scenic lookout at mile marker 9 (just before you get to the Lahaina Tunnel); it’s a good viewpoint to scan for whales.
Olowalu Reef Along the straight part of Honoapiilani Highway, between McGregor Point and Olowalu, you’ll sometimes see whales leap out of the water. Their appearance can bring traffic to a screeching halt: People abandon their cars and run down to the sea to watch, causing a major traffic jam. If you stop, pull off the road so others can pass.
Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa In the Wailea coastal walk, stop at this resort to look for whales through the telescope installed as a public service by the Hawaii Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.
Whale-Watching by Kayak & Raft I recommend viewing humpback whales from a maneuverable, high-speed raft—you’ll be close to the water and that much closer to the cetaceans. Capt. Steve’s Rafting Excursions (www.captainsteves.com; 808/667-5565) offers 2-hour whale-watching excursions out of Lahaina Harbor (from $55 adults, $45 children 5–12). Tip: Save $10 by booking the early-bird adventure, which leaves at 7:30am.
Whale-Watching Cruises Just about all of Hawaii’s snorkel and dive boats become whale-watching boats in season; some of them even carry professional naturalists onboard so you’ll know what you’re seeing and drop hydrophones in the water so you can better hear the whales’ song. For options, see “Boating,” earlier in this section.
Windsurfing
Maui has Hawaii’s best windsurfing beaches. In winter, windsurfers from around the world flock to the town of Paia to ride the waves; Hookipa Beach , known all over the globe for its brisk winds and excellent waves, is the site of several world championship contests. Kanaha Beach, west of Kahului Airport, also has dependable winds. When the winds turn northerly, North Kihei is the place to be (some days, you can even spot whales in the distance behind the windsurfers). Ohukai Park, the first beach as you enter South Kihei Road from the northern end, has good winds, plus parking, a long strip of grass to assemble your gear, and easy access to the water.
Equipment Rentals & Lessons Hawaiian Sailboarding Techniques, 425 Koloa St., Kahului (www.hstwindsurfing.com; 808/871-5423), offers rentals and 2½-hour lessons from $99 at Kanaha Beach early in the morning before the breeze gets too strong for beginners. Maui Windsurf Company, 22 Hana Hwy., Kahului (www.mauiwindsurfcompany.com; 808/877-4816), offers complete equipment rental (Goya boards, sails, rig harnesses, and roof racks) from $59, plus 2½-hour group lessons from $99 and private instruction at $99 per hour.
Daily Wind & Surf Conditions For reports on wind and surf conditions, call Hi-Tech’s Wind & Surf Report at 808/877-3611, ext. 2.
Surf Van Since most windsurf gear won’t fit into a typical rental car, call Aloha Rent-a-Car /Al West’s Maui Vans to rent a newish (or old) van by the week. Older vans start at $38 per day, four-day minimum. (www.mauivans.com; 808/877-0090).
Biking
Cruising Haleakala
Several companies offer the opportunity to coast down Haleakala, from near the summit to the shore, on basic cruiser bikes. It can be quite a thrilling experience—but one that should be approached with caution. Despite what various companies claim about their safety record, people have been injured and killed participating in this activity. If you do choose to go, pay close attention to the safety briefing. Bike tours aren’t allowed in Haleakala National Park, so your van will take you to the summit first, and then drop you off just outside of the park. You’ll descend through multiple climates and ecosystems, past eucalyptus groves and flower-filled gulches. But bear in mind: The roads are steep and curvy without designated bike lanes and little to no shoulder. During winter and the rainy season, conditions can be particularly harsh; you’ll be saran-wrapped in rain gear. Temperatures at the summit can drop below freezing and 40-mph winds howl, so wear warm layers whatever the season.
Maui’s oldest downhill company is Maui Downhill (www.mauidownhill.com; 808/871-2155), which offers sunrise bike tours, including breakfast and lunch stops (not hosted), starting at $189 (substantial discounts online). Be prepared for a 3am departure! Mountain Riders Bike Tours (www.mountainriders.com; 800/706-7700) offers sunrise rides for $180 and midday trips for $160 (discounted if booked online). If you want to avoid the crowds and go down the mountain at your own pace (rather than in a choo-choo train of other bikers), call Haleakala Bike Company (www.bikemaui.com; 808/575-9575). After assessing your skill, they’ll outfit you with the latest gear and shuttle you up Haleakala. They also offer Haleakala sunrise tours sans bike—a decent option for folks who might feel too sleepy to pedal or drive.
Rentals
Maui offers dynamic terrain for serious and amateur cyclists. If you’ve got the chops to pedal up Haleakala, the pros at Maui Cyclery (99 Hana Hwy., Paia; www.gocyclingmaui.com; 808/579-9009) can outfit you and provide a support vehicle. Tour de France athletes launch their Maui training sessions from this full-service Paia bike shop, which rents top-of-the-line equipment and offers a range of guided tours. Shop owner Donny Arnoult hosts 6-day cycling camps and sponsors the annual Cycle to the Sun contest; riders travel from around the globe to tackle the 10,023-foot volcano on two wheels.
If mountain biking is more your style, hit up Moose at Krank Cycles (1120 Makawao Ave., Makawao; www.krankmaui.com; 808/572-2299) for a tricked-out bike and directions to the Makawao Forest trails.
Maui County has produced a full-color map of the island with various cycling routes, information on road suitability, climate, mileage, elevation changes, bike shops, and safety tips. It’s available at most bike shops. You can also download it at www.southmauibicycles.com.
Golf
Golfers have many outstanding greens to choose from on Maui, from world championship courses to municipal parks with oceanfront views. Greens fees are pricey, but twilight tee times can be a giant deal. Be forewarned; the tradewinds pick up in the afternoon and can seriously alter your game. Stand-by Golf (www.hawaiistandbygolf.com; 888/645-2665) rents clubs and offers savings off greens fees at Kaanapali, Wailea Golf Club’s Gold and Emerald courses, and Pukalani golf courses. Golf Club Rentals (www.mauiclubrentals.com; 808/665-0800) has custom-built clubs for men, women, and juniors (both right- and left-handed) that can be delivered island-wide; the rates are $25 a day for steel clubs, and a full graphite set is $30 a day.
West Maui
Kaanapali Golf Resort Both courses at Kaanapali will challenge golfers, from high-handicappers to near-pros. The par-72, 6,305-yard Royal (North) Course is a true Robert Trent Jones, Sr., design: It has an abundance of wide bunkers; several long, stretched-out tees; and the largest, most contoured greens on Maui. The tricky 18th hole (par-4, 435-yard) has a water hazard on the approach to the green. The par-72, 6,250-yard Kai (South) Course is an Arthur Jack Snyder design; although shorter than the North Course, it requires more accuracy on the narrow, hilly fairways. It also has a water hazard on its final hole, so don’t tally up your scorecard until you sink the final putt. Facilities include a driving range and putting course. The clubhouse restaurant is run by celebrated chef Roy Yamaguchi.
Off Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali (1st building on right). www.kaanapaligolfcourses.com. 808/661-3691. Greens fees: Royal Course $255 ($179 for Kaanapali guests), twilight rates (starting at 1pm) $149, super twilight rates (starting at 3pm) $109; Kai Course $205 ($139 for Kaanapali guests), twilight rates (starting at 1pm) $99, super twilight rates (starting at 3pm) $79.
Kapalua Resort The views from these two championship courses are worth the greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,761-yard Bay Course was designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. This course is a bit forgiving, with its wide fairways; the greens, however, are difficult to read. The oft-photographed 5th overlooks a small ocean cove; even the pros have trouble with this rocky par-3, 205-yard hole. The Plantation Course, site of the Century Tournament of Champions, is a Ben Crenshaw/Bill Coore design. The 6,547-yard, par-73 course, set on a rolling hillside, is excellent for developing your low shots and precise chipping. Facilities for both courses include locker rooms, a driving range, and great dining. Sharpen your skills at the attached golf academy, which offers half-day golf school, private lessons, club fittings, and special clinics for beginners. Weekends are your best bet for tee times.
Off Hwy. 30, Kapalua. www.golfatkapalua.com. 877/KAPALUA or 808/669-8044. Greens fees: Bay Course $229 ($209 for resort guests), twilight rates (starting at 1pm) $169, super twilight (starting at 3pm) $129; Plantation Course $329 ($299 for guests), twilight rates $249, super twilight $199. Call for special packages.
South Maui
Maui Nui Golf Club The name has changed, but the Kihei course is the same forgiving, beautiful playground. Unspooling across the foothills of Haleakala, it’s just high enough to afford spectacular ocean vistas from every hole. One caveat: Go in the morning. Not only is it cooler, but (more important) it’s also less windy. In the afternoon, the winds bluster down Haleakala with gusto. It’s a fun course to play, with some challenging holes; the par-5 2nd hole is a virtual minefield of bunkers, and the par-5 8th hole shoots over a swale and then uphill. Premium clubs rent for $50 with two sleeves of balls.
470 Lipoa Pkwy., Kihei. www.mauinuigolfclub.com. 808/874-0777. Greens fees $99 7:30–11am, $54–$89 before 7:30am and after 11am. Check website for specials and off-season rates.
Wailea Golf Club You’ll have three courses to choose from at Wailea. The Blue Course, a par-72, 6,758-yard course designed by Arthur Jack Snyder and dotted with bunkers and water hazards, is for duffers and pros alike. The wide fairways appeal to beginners, while the undulating terrain makes it a course everyone can enjoy. More challenging is the par-72, 7,078-yard championship Gold Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., with narrow fairways and several tricky dogleg holes, not to mention such natural hazards as lava-rock walls. The Emerald Course, also designed by Trent Jones, Jr., is Wailea’s most scenic, with tropical landscaping and a player-friendly design. Sunday mornings are the least crowded. Facilities include a golf training facility, two pro shops, locker rooms, and two restaurants: Gannon’s, by Chef Bev Gannon, and Mulligan’s, a popular Irish pub.
Blue Course: 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea. www.waileagolf.com. 808/879-2530. Emerald and Gold courses: 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr. 888/328-MAUI or 808/875-7450. Greens fees: Blue Course $190 ($175 for resort guests), $145 after noon, $115 after 2pm; Gold Course and Emerald Course $250 ($199 for resort guests), $170 after noon, $119 after 3:30pm. Check website for specials and unlimited passes.
Upcountry Maui
Pukalani Country Club This cool par-72, 6,962-yard course at 1,100 feet offers a break from the resorts’ high greens fees, and it’s really fun to play. The 3rd hole offers golfers two options: a tough (especially into the wind) iron shot from the tee, across a gully (yuck!) to the green, or a shot down the side of the gully across a second green into sand traps below. (Most people choose to shoot down the side of the gully; it’s actually easier than shooting across a ravine.) High handicappers will love this course, and more experienced players can make it more challenging by playing from the back tees. Facilities include club and shoe rentals, practice areas, lockers, a pro shop, and a restaurant.
360 Pukalani St., Pukalani. www.pukalanigolf.com. 808/572-1314. Greens fees for 18 holes (including cart) $89, $69 11am–1pm, $39 1–2:30pm, $29 after 2:30pm. Take the Hana Hwy. (Hwy. 36) to Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 37) to the Pukalani exit; turn right onto Pukalani St. and go 2 blocks.
Hiking
Over a few brief decades, Maui transformed from a rural island to a fast-paced resort destination, but its natural beauty has remained largely inviolate. Many pristine places can be explored only on foot. Those interested in seeing the backcountry—complete with virgin waterfalls, remote wilderness trails, and quiet, meditative settings—should head to Haleakala or the tropical Hana Coast.
For details on Maui hiking trails and free maps, contact Haleakala National Park (www.nps.gov/hale; 808/572-4400), the Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources (www.dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/maui; 808/984-8109) or the state’s Na Ala Hele program (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/873-3508). Choose different tabs on the Na Ala Hele website to download maps.
Guided Hikes Maui’s oldest hiking company is Hike Maui (www.hikemaui.com; 866/324-6284 or 808/879-5270), headed by Ken Schmitt, who pioneered guided treks on the Valley Isle. Hike Maui offers numerous treks island-wide, ranging from an easy 1-mile, 3-hour hike to a waterfall ($95) to a strenuous full-day hike in Haleakala Crater ($190). On the popular East Maui waterfall trips ($124), you can swim and jump from the rocks into rainforest pools. Guides share cultural and botanical knowledge along the trail. All prices include equipment and transportation. Hotel pickup costs an extra $25 per person.
If you’d like a knowledgeable guide to accompany you on a hike, call Maui Hiking Safaris (www.mauihikingsafaris.com; 888/445-3963 or 808/573-0168). Owner Randy Warner takes eight or fewer adventurers on half- and full-day hikes into valleys, rainforests, and coastal areas. Randy’s been hiking around Maui for more than 30 years and is wise in the ways of Hawaiian history, native flora and fauna, and volcanology. His rates range from $75 for a half-day to $169 for a full day, and hikes include daypacks, rain parkas, snacks, water, and, on full-day hikes, sandwiches. Private half-day tours are $150 per person ($125 per additional person).
The Maui chapter of the Sierra Club offers the best deal by far: guided hikes for a $5 donation. Volunteer naturalists lead small groups along historic coastlines and up into forest waterfalls. Call 808/419-5143 or go to www.mauisierraclub.org.
Haleakala National Park
For complete coverage of the national park, see p. 312.
Wilderness Hikes: Sliding Sands & Halemauu Trails
Hiking into Maui’s dormant volcano is an experience like no other. The terrain inside the wilderness area of the volcano, which ranges from burnt-red cinder cones to ebony-black lava flows, is astonishing. There are some 27 miles of hiking trails, two camping sites, and three cabins.
Entrance to Haleakala National Park is $25 per car. The rangers offer free guided hikes (usually Mon and Thurs), a great way to learn about the unusual flora and geological formations here. Wear sturdy shoes and be prepared for wind, rain, and intense sun. Bring water, snacks, and a hat. Additional options include full-moon hikes and star-program hikes. The hikes and briefing sessions may be canceled, so check first. Call 808/572-4400 or visit www.nps.gov/hale.
Avid hikers should plan to stay at least 1 night in the park; 2 or 3 nights will allow more time to explore the fascinating interior of the volcano (see below for details on the cabins and campgrounds in the wilderness area of the valley). If you want to venture out on your own, the best route takes in two trails: into the crater along Sliding Sands Trail, which begins on the rim at 9,800 feet and descends to the valley floor at 6,600 feet, and back out along Halemauu Trail. Before you set out, stop at park headquarters to get trail updates.
The trailhead for Sliding Sands is well marked and the trail easy to follow over lava flows and cinders. As you descend, look around: The view is breathtaking. In the afternoon, waves of clouds flow into the Kaupo and Koolau gaps. Vegetation is spare to nonexistent at the top, but the closer you get to the valley floor, the more growth you’ll see: bracken ferns, pili grass, shrubs, even flowers. On the floor, the trail travels across rough lava flows, passing by rare silversword plants, volcanic vents, and multicolored cinder cones.
The Halemauu Trail goes over red and black lava and past native ohelo berries and ohia trees as it ascends up the valley wall. Occasionally, riders on horseback use this trail. The proper etiquette is to step aside and stand quietly next to the trail as the horses pass.
Some shorter and easier hiking options include the half-mile walk down the Hosmer Grove Nature Trail, or just the first mile or two down Sliding Sands Trail. (Even this short hike is exhausting at the high altitude.) A good day hike is Halemauu Trail to Holua Cabin and back, an 8-mile, half-day trip.
Kipahulu
All the way out in Hana, lush and rainy Kipahulu is one section of Haleakala National Park that is not accessible from the summit. From the ranger station just off of Hana Highway, it’s a short hike above the famous Oheo Gulch (aka the Seven Sacred Pools) to two spectacular waterfalls. Check with rangers before heading out, to make sure that no flash floods are expected. (Streams can swell quickly, even when it appears sunny. Never attempt to cross flooding waters.) The Pipiwai Trail begins near the ranger station, across the street from the central parking area. Follow it 5 miles to the Makahiku Falls overlook. Continue on another 1.5 miles across two bridges and through a magical bamboo forest to Waimoku Falls. It’s a challenging uphill trek, but mostly shaded and sweetened by the sounds of clattering bamboo canes.
Polipoli Springs Area
At this state recreation area, part of the 21,000-acre Kula and Kahikinui forest reserves on the slope of Haleakala, it’s hard to believe that you’re in Hawaii. First of all, it’s cold, even in summer, because the elevation is 5,300 to 6,200 feet. Second, this former forest of native koa, ohia, and mamane, which was overlogged in the 1800s, was reforested in the 1930s with introduced species: pine, Monterey cypress, ash, sugi, red alder, redwood, and several varieties of eucalyptus. The result is a cool area, with muted sunlight filtered by towering trees.
Skyline Trail
This is some hike—strenuous but worth every step if you like seeing the big picture. It’s 6.8 miles down, then back up again, with a dazzling 100-mile view of the islands dotting the blue Pacific, plus the West Maui Mountains, which seem like a separate island.
The trail is just outside Haleakala National Park at Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area; however, you access it by going through the national park to the summit. It starts just beyond the Puu Ulaula summit building on the south side of Science City and follows the southwest rift zone of Haleakala from its lunarlike cinder cones to a cool redwood grove. The trail drops 2,600 feet into the 12,000-acre Kahikinui Forest Reserve. Plan on 8 hours; bring water and extreme weather gear.
Polipoli Loop
Follow the Skyline trail to its terminus, and you’ll reach the Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area. Alternately, you can drive straight there and embark on several cool weather hikes. (Four-wheel-drive vehicle recommended.) One of the most unusual hikes in the state is the easy 3.5-mile Polipoli Loop, which takes about 3 hours. Take the Haleakala Highway (Hwy. 37) to Kēokea and turn right onto Highway 337; after less than a half-mile, turn on Waipoli Road, which climbs swiftly. After 10 miles, Waipoli Road ends at the Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area campgrounds. The well-marked trailhead is next to the parking lot near a stand of Monterey cypress; the tree-lined trail offers the best view of the island. Dress warmly.
Polipoli Loop is really a network of three trails: Haleakala Ridge, Plum Trail, and Redwood Trail. After .5 miles of meandering through groves of eucalyptus, blackwood, swamp mahogany, and hybrid cypress, you’ll join the Haleakala Ridge Trail, which, about a mile in, joins with the Plum Trail (named for the plums that ripen in June and July). This trail passes through massive redwoods and by an old Conservation Corps bunkhouse before joining up with the Redwood Trail, which climbs through Mexican pine, tropical ash, Port Orford cedar, and, of course, redwood.
Tucked in a jungle on the outskirts of the little coastal town of Hana is this state park, a black-sand beach nestled against vine-strewn cliffs.
The Hana-Waianapanapa Coast Trail is an easy 6-mile hike that takes you back in time. Allow 4 hours to walk along this relatively flat trail, which parallels the sea, along lava cliffs and a forest of lauhala trees. The best time to take the hike is either early morning or late afternoon, when the light on the lava and surf makes for great photos. Midday is the worst time; not only is it hot (lava intensifies the heat), but there’s also no shade or potable water available.
There’s no formal trailhead; join the route at any point along the Waianapanapa Campground and go in either direction. Along the trail, you’ll see remains of an ancient heiau (temple), stands of lauhala trees, caves, a blowhole, and a remarkable plant, the naupaka, which flourishes along the beach. Upon close inspection, you’ll see that the naupaka have only half-blossoms; according to Hawaiian legend, a similar plant living in the mountains has the other half of the blossoms. Old myths say they are tragically separated lovers, one banished to the mountain and the other to the sea.
Hana: The Hike to Fagan’s Cross
This 3-mile hike to the cross erected in memory of Paul Fagan, the founder of Hana Ranch and the former Hotel Hana-Maui (now the Travaasa Hana), offers spectacular views of the Hana Coast, particularly at sunset. The uphill trail starts across Hana Highway from the Hotel Hana-Maui. Enter the pastures at your own risk; they’re often occupied by glaring bulls with sharp horns and cows with new calves. Watch your step as you ascend this steep hill on a jeep trail across open pastures to the cross and breathtaking views.
Horseback Riding
Maui offers spectacular horse rides through rugged ranchlands and into tropical forests. I recommend riding with Mendes Ranch Trail Rides , 3530 Kahekili Hwy., 6¼ miles past Wailuku (www.mendesranch.com; 808/871-5222). The 3,000-acre Mendes Ranch is a real-life working cowboy ranch with all the essential elements of an earthly paradise: rainbows, waterfalls, palm trees, coral-sand beaches, lagoons, tide pools, a rainforest, and its own volcanic peak (more than a mile high). Your guides, bona fide wranglers, will take you from the edge of the rainforest out to the sea and even teach you to lasso. They’ll field questions and point out native flora, but generally just let you soak up Maui’s natural splendor in golden silence. Experienced riders can run their horses. A 1½-hour morning or afternoon ride costs $110; add a barbecue lunch at the corral for an additional $30.
Take a Submarine Ride The Atlantis Submarine (p. 325 and pictured below) takes you and the kids down into the shallow coastal waters off Lahaina in a real sub, where you’ll see plenty of fish (and maybe even a shark!). They’ll love it, and you’ll all stay dry the entire time. Allow about 2 hours for the trip.
Sleep with the Sharks What do fish do when the lights go out? Find out during one of the family sleepovers at the Maui Ocean Center (p. 309). The fun starts at 7pm, when kids help feed the turtles and rays, witness sharks and jacks on the prowl in the Open Ocean exhibit, and then snuggle into their sleeping bags. Note: Each child must be accompanied by an adult. The $75 per-person fee includes snacks, breakfast, a souvenir, and aquarium admission the following day.
Tour the Stars After sunset, the stars over Kaanapali shine big and bright: That’s because the tropical sky is almost pollutant free and no big-city lights interfere with the cosmic view. Amateur astronomers can probe the Milky Way, see the rings of Saturn and Jupiter’s moons, and scan the Sea of Tranquillity in a 60-minute star search on the world’s first recreational computer-driven telescope. It takes place nightly at 8 and 9pm on the rooftop of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort (p. 360). The cost is $30 for adults and $20 for children 12 and under. (There’s also a 10pm tour for couples only; it’s $45, and champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries are served.) Reservations are a must.
Another one of my favorites is Piiholo Ranch Adventures in Makawao (www.piiholo.com; 808/740-0727). This working cattle ranch owned by the kama‘aina (long-time resident) Baldwin family offers a variety of horseback adventures to suit your ability. Among them, the 2- to 3-hour private rides meander through the misty slopes of Haleakala with stops for picnic lunches (starting at $229). You can play “Cowboy for a Day” and learn how to round up cattle ($349). For a truly special occasion, book the Heli Ranch Experience ($3,335 for two people): A limo delivers you to the Kahului heliport, where you board an A-Star helicopter and fly to a private ranch cabin for breakfast and a 2-hour horseback ride. The ranch also has a zipline; check “Ziplining,” below, for more details.
Tennis
Maui has excellent public tennis courts; all are free and available from daylight to sunset (a few are even lit until 10pm for night play). For a complete list of public courts, call Maui County Parks and Recreation ( 808/270-7383) or visit www.co.maui.hi.us/facilities.aspx. Courts are available on a first-come, first-served basis; when someone’s waiting, limit your play to 45 minutes. Most public courts require a wait and aren’t especially convenient for visitors. Exceptions include the courts in Kihei (in Kalama Park on South Kihei Rd. and in Waipualani Park on West Waipualani Rd. behind the Maui Sunset condo), in Lahaina (in Malu Ulu Olele Park at Front and Shaw sts.), and in Hana (in the Hana Ballpark just off of Hauoli Rd.).
Private tennis courts are available at most resorts and hotels on the island. The Kapalua Tennis Garden and Village Tennis Center, Kapalua Resort (www.golfatkapalua.com/tennis; 808/662-7730), is home to the Kapalua Open, which features the largest purse in the state, held on Labor Day weekend. Court rentals are $25 per person. Drop-in Doubles and Stroke of the Day clinics are offered most days at 8 and 9am. In Wailea, try the Wailea Tennis Club, 131 Wailea Ike Place (www.waileatennis.com; 808/879-1958), with 11 Plexipave courts. Court fees are $20 per player, with 2-day advance reservations required.
Ziplining
Piiholo Ranch Adventures Explore this family ranch in the Makawao forest from above—flying through the eucalyptus canopy on one of six ziplines. Tour packages include access to the aerial bridge, tree platforms, ziplines (including side-by-side lines), and a trip to nearby waterfalls where you can take a refreshing dip.
799 Piiholo Rd., Makawao. www.piiholozipline.com. 808/572-1717. Tours $99–$229.
Skyline EcoAdventures Go on, let out a wild holler as you soar above a rainforested gulch in Kaanapali or down the slope of Haleakala. Pioneers of this internationally popular activity, the Skyline owners brought the first ziplines to the U.S. and launched them from their home, here on Maui. Skyline has two courses, one on the west side and the other halfway up Haleakala. Both are fast and fun, the guides are savvy and safety-conscious, and the scenery is breathtaking. In Kaanapali, you can even “zip and dip”: drop off your line into a mountain pool. Beyond that, this eco-conscious company is carbon-neutral and donates thousands of dollars to local environmental agencies.
2½ miles up Haleakala Hwy., Makawao. www.zipline.com. 808/878-8400. Skyline EcoAdventures Kaanapali: 2580 Kekaa Dr. #122, Lahaina (meet at Fairway Shops). ( 808/662-1500). Tours $109–$240.
Maui has accommodations to fit every kind of vacation, from deluxe oceanfront resorts to reasonably priced condos to historic bed-and-breakfasts. Be sure to reference “The Island in Brief,” earlier in this chapter, to help you settle on a location.
Remember that Hawaii’s 14.416% accommodations tax will be tacked on to your final bill. Also, if you’re staying at an upscale hotel or resort, expect to pay a daily “resort fee” ($20–$35 a day) in addition to your room rate. Parking is free unless noted and all hotels are nonsmoking.
Central Maui
Kahului
Marriott Courtyard Business travelers and vacationers looking to save on airport drive time will find a comfortable night’s sleep here. Built in 2012, the hotel has soundproofed walls that adequately muffle noise from the neighboring airport. Spacious rooms are attractively furnished, featuring contemporary, island-inspired artwork. Suites come with full kitchens—super convenient considering the lobby has a 24-hour market, and several grocery stores are a 5-minute drive away. The palm-fringed pool deck is nice at night when it’s lit by the glow of the fire pit.
532 Keolani Place, Kahului. www.marriott.com. 808/871-1800. 138 units. $329 double; $399 suite; $459 1-bedroom; $668 2-bedroom. Parking $10. Free airport shuttle. Amenities: Deli-style restaurant; fitness center; Jacuzzi; coin-operated laundry; 24-hr. market; pool; free Wi-Fi.
Wailuku
Maui Seaside As if frozen in time, this harborside hotel looks much the same as it might have in the 1970s: rattan furniture, aloha print bedspreads, and faux-leather booth seating in Tante’s, the attached restaurant. The vintage decor has been updated and is now trendy. Rooms in the two-story building face the pool and Kahului Harbor with its sandy beach, where canoe clubs launch their paddling practice.
100 W. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului. www.mauiseasidehotel.com. 800/560-5552 or 808/877-3311. 180 units. Double from $169. Some rates include breakfast. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Extra person $15. Parking $7. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry room; pool; free Wi-Fi.
Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono Innkeepers Janice and Thomas Fairbanks and their daughter Shelly offer genuine Hawaiian hospitality at this lovingly restored 1928 estate hidden down a sleepy side street in old Wailuku town. Rooms in both the inn and the three-bedroom Vagabond House are decorated with native ohia-wood or marble floors, high ceilings, and traditional Hawaiian quilts—most with king-size beds. Each room has a private, luxurious bathroom stocked with plush towels and Aveda toiletries and either a claw-foot tub, a whirlpool tub, or a deluxe multihead shower. You’ll want to linger in the fragrant gardens and curl up with a book on the enclosed lanai. Your hosts pull out all the stops at breakfast, serving tropical fruits and pastries to early birds and Belgian waffles, five-cheese frittatas, and Molokai sweet potato pancakes after 8am. The inn is located in Wailuku’s historic center, just 5 minutes’ walk from the Bailey House Museum, Market Street’s antique shops, and several good restaurants. Iao Valley is a 5-minute drive away.
2199 Kahookele St. (at High St., across from the Wailuku School), Wailuku. www.mauiinn.com. 800/305-4899 or 808/244-5897. 10 units. $185–$225 double, includes full breakfast. Check for online specials. 2-night minimum. Amenities: Jacuzzi; free Wi-Fi.
West Maui
Lahaina
Expensive
Outrigger Aina Nalu This lushly landscaped condo complex sprawls over 9 acres on a relatively quiet side street—a rarity in downtown Lahaina. The good-size units are tastefully decorated with modern tropical accents; all have kitchens or kitchenettes, laundry facilities, air-conditioning (a must in Lahaina), and bathrooms with large granite showers (but no tubs). Both pools are appealing places to retreat during the midday heat—particularly the infinity pool deck with its bright red cabanas and pavilion for poolside picnics. All of the historic whaling town’s excitement—restaurants, shops, galleries, marine activities, and the small sandy cove at 505 Front St.—is within a 10-minute stroll.
660 Wainee St. (btw. Dickenson and Prison sts.), Lahaina. www.outriggerainanalucondo.com. 866/253-9743 or 808/667-9766. 197 units. $139–$175 studio; $149–$315 1-bedroom; $199–$395 2-bedroom. 2-night minimum. Cleaning fee $125–$225. Parking $17.50. Amenities: Concierge; grills; whirlpool; 2 pools; free Wi-Fi.
The Plantation Inn Tucked away behind Gerard’s (Maui’s award-winning French restaurant), this romantic inn was built in 1987 but looks as if it has been here since the days of Hawaiian royalty—an artful deception. Rooms are tastefully furnished with vintage touches: four-poster beds, hardwood floors, French doors, and Hawaiian quilts. All units are blissfully quiet, and some have lanais overlooking Lahaina Town. Three extras seal this inn’s appeal: Guests receive a $50 gift credit to Gerard’s, each morning a complimentary gourmet breakfast (also courtesy of Gerard’s) is served poolside, and the super-convenient location—in the heart of Lahaina—makes driving unnecessary.
174 Lahainaluna Rd. (btw. Wainee and Luakini sts., 1 block from Hwy. 30), Lahaina. www.theplantationinn.com. 800/433-6815 or 808/667-9225. 18 units. $178–$310 double; $248–$313 suite. Extra person $40. Check website for deals. Rates include full breakfast and $50 credit at Gerard’s; free self-parking. Amenities: Restaurant and bar; concierge; whirlpool; coin-operated laundry; large outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Best Western Pioneer Inn Steps from active Lahaina Harbor, this circa-1901 hotel offers a taste of the whaling town’s historic past. Simply furnished rooms have smallish bathrooms, mounted air-conditioners (not silent, but they do muffle the outdoor noise), and private balconies. Note that all rooms are up a flight of stairs. The quietest units face the garden courtyard—an outdoor dining area shaded by an enormous hala tree—but for people-watching from your veranda, get a room that overlooks Front Street. The restaurant serves a good breakfast and great, cheap drinks at happy hour.
658 Wharf St. (in front of Lahaina Pier), Lahaina. www.pioneerinnmaui.com. 800/457-5457 or 808/661-3636. 34 units. $187–$207 double. Free parking (across the street). Amenities: Restaurant; bar w/live music; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Lahaina Inn A ship’s figurehead announces this historic inn in the center of Maui’s old whaling town. Each tiny, antiques-stuffed room has a private bathroom, air-conditioning, and two rocking chairs on a lanai overlooking Lahaina’s action. Rooms 7 and 8 have views of the glittering Pacific. Downstairs is Lahaina Grill, one of the island’s most celebrated restaurants. You won’t need a car while staying here—shopping, restaurants, and marine activities are immediately outside your door—but you will need earplugs; this is an urban area, and garbage trucks rumble past in the early morning. The front desk closes at 7pm, so make sure you have everything you need before they leave for the day. Guests have beach, pool, and tennis privileges at the inn’s sister property, the Royal Lahaina Resort in Kaanapali.
127 Lahainaluna Rd. (off Front St.), Lahaina. www.lahainainn.com. 808/661-0577. 12 units. $119–$221 double; from $195 suite. Next-door parking $15 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; privileges at Royal Lahaina Resort; free Wi-Fi.
Lahaina Roads Named for the Mala Wharf roadstead where a string of pretty boats anchor offshore, this older condo complex offers compact, individually owned units. It’s located on the northern end of Lahaina, away from crowded downtown, but just down the street from Lahaina Cannery Mall, Old Lahaina Luau, and several terrific restaurants. One- and two-bedroom units benefit from full kitchens, oceanfront lanais, and a seaside pool. The drawbacks: Bedrooms face the road, which can make nights noisy, and some units lack air-conditioning (it can be boiling hot in Lahaina). I’ve listed one property manager, but a quick Internet search will turn up others.
1403 Front St. (1 block north of Lahaina Cannery Mall), Lahaina. Book with Chase’N Rainbows: www.westmauicondos.com/resorts/lahaina-roads. 877/661-6022 or 808/359-2636. 17 units. $140–$250 1-bedroom; $250–$405 2-bedroom. Cleaning fee from $200. 5-night minimum. Amenities: Oceanside pool; free Internet/Wi-Fi in some units.
Maui Guest House Tanna Swanson offers guests many extras at her charming B&B, tucked away in a residential Lahaina neighborhood. For starters, each private room has a full-size Jacuzzi (seriously!), noiseless air-conditioning, and gorgeous stained-glass windows depicting reef fish, flowers, and other Hawaiian scenes. Guests also have access to the saltwater pool; large, fully stocked kitchen; and a 30-foot sundeck for sunbathing, stargazing, and whale-watching. Tanna is a wealth of local information and an experienced scuba diver who takes good care of fellow aqua-holics. She also operates Trinity Tours, a discount activity agency. Her home is 1½ miles from either Lahaina’s shopping and restaurants or Kaanapali’s beaches.
1620 Ainakea Rd. (off Fleming Rd.), north of Lahaina town. www.mauiguesthouse.com. 800/621-8942 or 808/661-8085. 5 rooms. $199 double, includes continental breakfast. Take Fleming Rd. off Hwy. 30; turn left on Ainakea; the B&B is 2 blocks down. Amenities: Concierge; saltwater pool; watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Lahaina Ocean’s Edge This funky 1964 hotel at the north end of Lahaina got a major makeover in late 2016. Thanks to its new owner, “The Edge” is now one of Maui’s most affordable gems. Oceanfront units are on the small side (about 400 sq. ft.) and don’t have phones or TVs, but they do have full kitchens with gas stoves and ocean views with Molokai in the distance. The largish unit on the southern corner has a private lanai that overlooks the Pacific on two sides. There’s no beach access here, but the Lahaina Cannery Mall and several great restaurants are a short walk away.
1415 Front St., Lahaina. www.lahainaoceansedge.com. 808/662-3200. 18 units. $139–$199 double, $199 2-bedroom. Extra person $15. 3–5 night minimum. Amenities: Laundry room; free Wi-Fi.
Kaanapali
Starwood’s Maui properties (Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, or the Westin Kaanapali Ocean Resort Villas) provide complimentary shuttle service to Lahaina and back.
Note: You’ll find Kaanapali hotels on the “Lahaina & Kaanapali Attractions & Hotels” map (p. 355).
Expensive
Aston at the Whaler on Kaanapali Beach Situated in the center of Kaanapali Beach next door to Whalers Village, this collection of condos feels more formal and sedate than its high-octane neighbors. Maybe it’s the koi turning circles in the meditative lily pond, the manicured lawn between the two 12-story towers, or the lack of a water slide populated by stampeding kids. Decor in the individually owned units varies widely, but most boast full kitchens, upscale bathrooms, and private lanais with views of Kaanapali’s gentle waves or the emerald peaks of the West Maui Mountains. Unit no. 723, in the back corner of the north tower, is exquisite. The beachfront barbecue area is the envy of passersby on the Kaanapali Beach walkway.
2481 Kaanapali Pkwy. (next to Whalers Village), Lahaina. www.whalerkaanapali.com. 888/671-5310 or 808/661-4861. 360 units. $306–$365 studio; $325–$589 1-bedroom; $535–$885 2-bedroom. Check for online specials. Daily $20 resort fee. Amenities: Concierge; fitness center; laundry; outdoor pool; salon; spa; tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Honua Kai Resort & Spa This North Kaanapali Beach resort is a favorite with residents and locals alike. The property sits on Kahekili Beach, immediately north of busier, flashier Kaanapali Beach, with a much better reef for snorkeling. The resort’s upscale yet relaxed atmosphere takes a cue from its natural surroundings. Island-inspired artwork in the lobby gives way to colorful koi ponds, artfully landscaped grounds, and meandering swimming pools. Luxe accommodations range from huge 590-square-foot studios to vast 2,800-square-foot three-bedroom units, with top-of-the-line appliances, private lanais, and ocean views. The resort’s sociable restaurant, Duke’s Maui Beach House, offers an “ono-licious” breakfast and live music from 3 to 5pm. Stock up on organic snacks, gelato, and local coffee at Aina Gourmet Market in the lobby. Hoola Spa has the island’s only therapeutic Himalayan salt room and uses organic, made-in-Hawaii products in its treatments.
130 Kai Malina Pkwy., North Kaanapali Beach. www.honuakai.com. 855/718-5789 or 808/662-2800. 600 units. Studio from $379; 1-bedroom from $349; 2-bedroom from $470; 3-bedroom from $1083. Daily $29 resort fee. Amenities: Restaurant; deli; bar; fitness center; nearby 36-hole golf course; 5 whirlpools; 5 pools; spa w/therapeutic salt room; nearby tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa You’ll feel like royalty when you walk into this palatial resort with exotic parrots and South African penguins in the lobby. The southernmost property on Kaanapali Beach, it covers some 40 acres with 9 manmade waterfalls, abundant Asian and Pacific artwork, and a waterpark pool with a swim-up grotto bar, rope bridge, and 150-foot lava-tube slide that keeps kids occupied for hours. Spread out among three towers, the resort’s ample rooms have huge marble bathrooms, feather-soft platform beds, and private lanais with eye-popping views of the Pacific or the West Maui Mountains. Two Regency Club floors offer a private concierge, complimentary breakfast, sunset cocktails, and snacks—not a bad choice for families looking to save on meals. Daily activities range from sushi-making classes at Japengo, the resort’s superb Japanese restaurant, to stargazing on the rooftop. Camp Hyatt offers pint-size guests weekly scavenger hunts, penguin-feeding opportunities, and access to a game room. The oceanfront Kamaha‘o, Marilyn Monroe Spa, a 20,000-square-foot wellness retreat, boasts 15 treatment rooms, sauna and steam rooms, and a huge menu of celebrity-inspired body treatments.
200 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina. https://maui.regency.hyatt.com. 808/661-1234. 806 rooms; 31 suites. Double from $323; Regency Club double from $493; Suite from $723. Daily $32 resort fee. Extra person $75 ($125 in Regency Club rooms). Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Packages available. Valet parking $28; self-parking $18. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; luaus; babysitting; children’s program; wildlife and star-gazing tours; concierge; club floor; 36-hole golf course; health club and classes; whirlpool; half-acre outdoor pool; room service; state-of-the-art spa; 6 tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Kaanapali Alii This luxurious oceanfront condo complex sits on 8 landscaped acres in the center of Kaanapali Beach. Units are individually owned and decorated—some are considerably fancier than others. Both one- (1,500-sq.-ft.) and two-bedroom (1,900-sq.-ft.) units come with the comforts of home: spacious living areas, gourmet kitchens, washer/dryers, lanais, and two full bathrooms. Resortlike extras include bell service, daily housekeeping, and a complimentary kids’ club (summer only). Views from each unit vary dramatically; if watching the sun sink into the ocean is important to you, request a central unit on floor six or higher. Mountain View units shouldn’t be disregarded, though. They’re cooler throughout the day, and the West Maui Mountains are arrestingly beautiful—particularly on full-moon nights. Other amenities include a swimming pool, a kiddie pool, barbecues and picnic areas, and tennis courts. You can even take yoga classes on the lawn.
50 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina. www.kaanapalialii.com. 866/664-6410 or 808/667-1400. 264 units. $465–$695 1-bedroom; $680–$1,050 2-bedroom. 5-night minimum. Check for online specials. Free parking. Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; fitness center; fitness and yoga classes; 36-hole golf course; kids’ club (June–Aug); 2 outdoor pools; 3 lighted tennis courts; watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The Sheraton occupies the nicest spot on Kaanapali Beach, built into the side of Puu Kekaa, the dramatic lava rock point at the beach’s north end. The sand has been disappearing as of late, but the snorkeling is still great around the base of the point, also known as Black Rock. At sunset, cliff divers swan dive into the sea from the torch-lit cliff. The resort’s prime location, ample amenities, and great service make this an ideal place to stay. Rooms feature Hawaiian-inspired decor, private lanais, and trademark Sweet Sleeper beds, which live up to their name. The ohana (family) suites accommodate all ages with two double beds plus a pune‘e (sleeping chaise). The lagoonlike pool is refreshing but doesn’t beat the sea full of actual fish and turtles just steps away. Activities ranging from outrigger canoe to hula and ukulele lessons will immerse you in Hawaiian culture; at night the Maui Nui Luau has an exciting fire-knife dance finale. Treatments at the elegant Spa at Black Rock—especially those catering to couples—are exquisite. Fans of Hank’s Haute Dogs on Oahu will find their favorite gourmet dogs here, and DJs spin tunes from 10pm to midnight on weekends at the Black Rock Lounge. Rooms perched on the point include access to the Na Hoku club lounge with free breakfast and evening appetizers.
2605 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina. www.sheraton-maui.com. 866/627-8114 or 808/661-0031. 508 units. Double from $351; suites from $617. Extra person $89. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Daily $26 resort fee. Valet parking $31 (free 1st day); self-parking $22. Amenities: 5 restaurants; poolside bar; weekly luau; club lounge; babysitting; children’s program (at Westin Maui Resort & Spa); lobby and poolside concierge; 36-hole golf course; fitness center; whirlpool; lagoon-style pool; room service; shuttle service; day spa; 3 tennis courts; watersports equipment/rentals; free Wi-Fi.
The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas In contrast to the hotel-style Westin (see below), this elegant condo complex is so enormous it has two separate lobbies. The 26 acres fronting serene Kahekili Beach function as a small town with two grocery stores, three pools (yes, that’s a life-size pirate ship in the kids’ pool), three restaurants (hit the sports bar Pailolo Bar & Grill during a game), a Hawaiian cultural advisor, the luxurious Spa Helani (the 80-min. Polynesian ritual is unforgettable), and a high-energy gym with its own steam rooms, saunas, and lockers. Managed by Westin, the individually owned units (ranging from studios to two-bedrooms) are outfitted with trademark Heavenly beds, huge soaking tubs with jets, and upscale kitchens. Despite its seemingly massive footprint, the resort has accrued awards for its eco-friendly practices. One fun example: On July 4th, the resort ditches the usual fireworks display (which spreads ash on the fragile coral reefs) and opts instead to celebrate with “flower-works,” dropping 60,000 orchids on the property. The lucky guest who finds the rose amid the orchids gets a free spa treatment or snorkel cruise. Tip: Ask for some leeway with the 4pm check-in and 10am checkout times.
6 Kai Ala Dr., Kaanapali Resort. www.westinkaanapali.com. 866/716-8112 or 808/667-3200. 1,021 units. Studio from $399; 1-bedroom from $559; 2-bedroom from $829. Extra person $89. Valet $20, self-parking $15. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; 36-hole golf course; 2 fitness centers; 6 outdoor pools (including children’s pool w/pirate ship); 4 whirlpools; room service; shuttle service; spa; tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
The Westin Maui Resort & Spa The fantasy begins in the lobby, where waterfalls spill into pools stocked with flamingos and black swans. The lavish grounds wind around an 87,000-square-foot water wonderland with five pools and an extra-speedy 128-foot-long water slide. (I screamed the first time I flew down it.) After enjoying the pool action (waterfalls, aquatic basketball, volleyball), hit the beach for snorkeling, stand-up paddling, kayaking, or parasailing . . . the sky truly is the limit. Recharge at Relish Burger Bistro, the poolside restaurant, but save your appetite for Wailele, the resort’s 3-hour luau experience. (Kids can get an all-day dining pass for $20.) Stroll two doors down to shop ’til you drop at Whalers Village. Return to your room to sink into your fabulous Heavenly Bed, a Westin trademark, with no fewer than five different pillows. If you need further refreshment, hit the Heavenly Spa for a Hualani fruit scrub and lomilomi massage—I highly recommend it. There’s also a “mind and body” studio for yoga and meditation classes, as well as a 2,000-square-foot fitness center. Forgot your workout clothes? No problem. You can borrow a set provided by New Balance.
2365 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina. www.westinmaui.com. 866/627-8413 or 808/667-2525. 759 units. Double from $359; suite from $842. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Extra person $89. Packages available. Daily $30 resort fee. Valet parking $15, self-parking free. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; bike rental; children’s program; concierge; fitness center; yoga; 36-hole golf course; 5 pools; room service; shuttle; salon; spa; tennis courts; watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Kaanapali Beach Hotel A relic from a bygone era, Kaanapali Beach Hotel has humble charm and authentic Hawaiian warmth. Depending on your taste, you’ll find this property’s giant carved tikis, whale-shaped pool, and somewhat dated decor kitschy or refreshingly unpretentious. Instead of African parrots and Asian artwork, the lobby is adorned with traditional Hawaiian hula implements and weapons—many created by the staff during their annual Makahiki celebration. Three low-rise buildings border Kaanapali Beach; the beachfront units are mere steps from the water. The large-ish, motel-like rooms are decorated with wicker and rattan furniture, historic photos, and Hawaiian-style bedspreads. Hula and live music create a festive atmosphere every night in the courtyard. During the day, the expert watermen and women at Hale Huaka‘i (the resort’s water activity center) will teach you surf or paddle. Dry off and head to Hale Ho‘okipa, the new cultural center, to practice throwing a fish net or playing the bamboo nose flute. The staff serenades you during a morning welcome reception and a farewell lei ceremony.
2525 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina. www.kbhmaui.com. 800/262-8450 or 808/661-0011. 430 units. Double from $207; suite from $311. Extra person $40. Packages available, as well as senior discounts. Valet parking $13; self-parking $11. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pool bar; babysitting; family activities; concierge; 36-hole golf course nearby; cultural center; pool; spa and salon services; access to tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Outrigger Maui Eldorado It may have been one of Kaanapali’s first properties in the late 1960s, but this 10-acre condo complex still manages to feel new. Developed in an era when real estate was abundant and contractors built to last, each spacious, individually owned unit has a full kitchen, washer/dryer, central air-conditioning, and outstanding ocean and mountain views. This is a great choice for active families. It’s set on Kaanapali Golf Course, not on the beach, but guests have exclusive use of a beachfront pavilion on North Kaanapali, aka Kahekili Beach. It’s a quick trip by car or golf cart. You’re also within walking distance of the Fairway Shops’ excellent and affordable restaurants—a real bonus in otherwise pricey Kaanapali. Note: It’s a two-level walkup without elevators. Grocery service and daily housekeeping are optional.
2661 Kekaa Dr., Lahaina. www.outrigger.com. 888/339-8585 or 808/661-0021. 204 units, 87 managed by Outrigger. Studio from $145; 1-bedroom from $169; 2-bedroom from $239. 2-night minimum. Packages available. Daily $15 resort fee; $125–$225 mandatory cleaning charge. Amenities: Beach pavilion; concierge; 36-hole golf course; 3 outdoor pools; free Wi-Fi.
Honokowai, Kahana & Napili
Expensive
Napili Kai Beach Resort This small resort nestled on Napili’s white sandy cove feels like a well-kept secret. For 50-plus years, the staff here has been welcoming return guests for a taste of unspoiled paradise. The weekly mai tai and golf putting parties are blasts from the past, but the modern conveniences in each unit and startling ocean views will focus you on the splendid here and now. From the three buildings on the point (Puna, Puna 2, and Lani), you can gaze from your bed at the ocean, which looks like an infinity pool starting at the edge of your lanai. All units (aside from eight hotel rooms) have full kitchens, washer/dryers, flatscreen TVs, ultra-comfortable king-size beds, and private lanais separated by attractive shoji screens. Hawaiian cultural activities include poi pounding and lauhala weaving workshops, authentic keiki (children’s) hula shows, and twice-weekly slack key guitar concerts led by Grammy award–winning musician George Kahumoku. Kids 12 and under eat for free at the resort’s Sea House restaurant. As cozy as the rooms are, you’ll probably spend most of your time on the beach or in the protected bay paddling past lazy sea turtles. Bonus: No resort fee.
5900 Honoapiilani Rd. (at north end of Napili, next to Kapalua), Lahaina. www.napilikai.com. 800/367-5030 or 808/669-6271. 162 units. Hotel room double from $335; studio from $475; 1-bedroom from $780; 2-bedroom from $1,050; 3-bedroom from $1,250. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; children’s activities at holidays; concierge; 24-hr. fitness room; 2 18-hole putting greens; discounted rates at nearby golf courses; 4 pools; free Kapalua shuttle; tennis courts nearby (and free use of rackets); free use of watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Kahana Sunset Set in the crook of a sharp bend on Lower Honoapiilani Road is a series of three-story wooden condos, stair-stepping down a hill to a private Keonenui beach—a strip of golden sand all but unknown, even to locals. Decor varies dramatically in the individually owned units, many of which feature master and children’s bedrooms up a short flight of stairs. All units have full kitchens with dishwashers, washer/dryers, cable TV, and expansive lanais with marvelous views. Some rooms have air-conditioning, while most rely on ceiling fans—suitable on this cooler end of the coastline. The center of the property features a small heated pool, whirlpool, and barbecue grills. This complex is ideal for families: The units are roomy and the adjoining beach is safe for swimming.
4909 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy. (at the northern end of Kahana), Lahaina. www.kahanasunset.com. 800/669-1488 or 808/669-8700. 79 units. 1-bedroom from $180; 2-bedroom from $250. 3- to 5-night minimum. Amenities: Private beach; barbecues; concierge; 2 pools (including kiddie pool); free high-speed Internet.
The Mauian Hotel Perched above beautiful Napili Bay, this vintage property offers a blend of old-time hospitality and modern flair. The verdant grounds burst with tropical color; the pool deck is shaded by umbrellas by day and lit with tiki torches at night. Rooms feature Indonesian-style furniture and lanais overlooking the grassy lawn and glittering Pacific. Studios have full kitchens. They don’t have phones or TVs—encouraging you to unplug—though you’ll find a TV and an extensive DVD library in the ohana (family) room. Guests gather there each morning for coffee, fresh fruit, and pastries before heading out to snorkel or try their luck at stand-up paddling in the supremely calm bay. Live music and free mai tais attract guests to the weekly “aloha party” by the pool, where they share pupu (appetizers) and travel tales. Nightly sunsets off the beach are spectacular—particularly during winter when whale spouts dot the horizon.
5441 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Napili), Lahaina. www.mauian.com. 808/669-6205. 44 units. Double from $219; Studio from $239. Extra person $13. Children 4 and under stay free in parent’s room. Amenities: Coin-operated laundry; continental breakfast, outdoor pool; shuffleboard courts; free limited Wi-Fi.
Napili Sunset This humble property hidden down a side street consists of three buildings, two facing spectacular Napili Bay and one across the street. At first glance, they don’t look like much, but the prime location, low prices, and friendly staff make up for the plain-Jane exterior. The one- and two-bedroom units are beachfront. Upstairs units have bathtubs, while those downstairs have direct access to the sand. Across the street, overlooking a kidney-shaped pool and gardens, the economical studios feature expansive showers and Murphy beds. All units benefit from daily maid service, full kitchens, and ceiling fans (studios have air-conditioning). Unfortunately, bedrooms in the beachfront buildings face the road, but the ocean views from the lanais are outstanding. The strip of grassy lawn adjoining the beach is an added perk—especially when the sandy real estate is crowded. Several good restaurants are within walking distance, along with Kapalua’s tennis courts and golf courses.
46 Hui Rd. (in Napili), Lahaina. www.napilisunset.com. 808/669-8083. 43 units. $219 studio; 1-bedroom from $379; $599 2-bedroom. Amenities: Daily maid service; barbecues; coin-operated laundry; small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Kaleialoha This four-story condo complex is conveniently located near Honokowai’s grocery shopping, budget restaurants, and public beach park. Each one-bedroom unit has a kitchen with marble countertops and dishwashers; a sofa bed in the living room; stacked washer/dryers; outdoor barbecues; and a view of Lanai and Molokai across the turquoise expanse of the Pacific. Top-floor units have the best views; ground-floor units open onto the lawn and oceanfront pool. There’s decent snorkeling beyond the rock retaining wall, but you’ll have to walk a block down the road for a sandy beach. Tip: You can inspect each unit on the website, plus view other nearby properties.
3785 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Honokowai), Lahaina. www.mauicondosoceanfront.com. 800/222-8688 or 808/669-8197. 18 units. $149–$245 1-bedroom. Extra person $10. Children 3 and under stay free in parent’s room. Cleaning fee $145. Amenities: Concierge; pool; free Wi-Fi.
Napili Bay This small two-story condo complex sits on the southern edge of picturesque Napili Bay. Fall asleep to the sound of the surf and wake to birdsong. Individually owned studio apartments are compact, with king- or queen-size beds in the oceanfront living room (rather than facing the road like so many on this strip). You’ll find a stocked kitchen, beach and snorkeling equipment, and a lanai with front-row seats for the sunset. You won’t find a pool on the property or air-conditioning in the rooms, but louvered windows and ceiling fans keep the units fairly cool—and why waste time in a pool when you’re steps away from one of the island’s calmest and prettiest bays?
33 Hui Dr. (off Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., in Napili), Lahaina. www.alohacondos.com. 877/877-5758. 28 units. $119–$329 double. Cleaning fees and minimum stays may apply. Amenities: Barbecue; laundry facility; free Wi-Fi.
Noelani Condominium Resort This Kahana condo is a real gem. Whether you book a studio or a three-bedroom unit, everything from the furnishings to the oceanfront pool is first class for budget prices. The only caveat: There’s no sandy beach attached. Pohaku Beach Park (good for surfing, not as great for swimming) is next door; better beaches are a 5-minute drive away. All units feature full kitchens, daily maid service, panoramic views of passing whales during winter, and sunsets year-round; one-, two-, and three-bedrooms have washer/dryers. My favorites are the Orchid building’s deluxe studios, where you can see the ocean from your bed. Units in the Anthurium Building boast oceanfront lanais just 20 feet from the water (the nicest are on the ground floor), but the bedrooms face the road. Guests are invited to lei-making and mai tai parties in the poolside cabana and have access to a teeny-tiny gym with a million-dollar view. With no cleaning fee, this place is a real deal.
4095 Lower Honoapiilani Rd. (in Kahana), Lahaina. www.noelani-condo-resort.com. 800/367-6030 or 808/669-8374. 40 units. Studio from $165; 1-bedroom from $210; 2-bedroom from $330; 3-bedroom from $365. Extra person $20. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Packages available. Rates include continental breakfast on 1st morning. 3-night minimum. Amenities: Concierge; fitness center; oceanfront whirlpool; laundry center (for studios); 2 pools (1 heated); DVD library; free Wi-Fi.
Note: You’ll find the following hotels on the “Hotels & Restaurants in West Maui” map (p. 357).
Expensive
Montage From the dramatic entry to its freestanding spa, Montage is a full-service resort that invites families to feel luxuriously at home. Enormous residences range from 1,250 to 4,050 square feet—each with gourmet kitchens, deep soaking tubs, walk-in closets, washer/dryers, and expansive lanais. Rooms overlook gardens, pools, and the island of Molokai on the horizon. An elevator delivers you to your private floor, where you can store the gear you will almost certainly use at nearby Kapalua and Oneloa beaches. The open-air restaurant, Cane and Canoe, is great day or night, and the Kapalua Beach Club is a chic hangout spot with its own pool, hot tub, and comparatively cheap drinks. Kids will love the outdoor movies and games of capture the flag. Adults will adore the royal treatment in the cabanas, the convenience of everything being close at hand, and the museum-quality artwork exhibited throughout the property. Guests have free use of Spa Montage—a wellness wonderland with outdoor rain showers, cedar saunas, waterfall hot tubs, an oceanview yoga studio, and (best of all) a coed serenity pool where couples can lounge sipping organic juices before or after their spa treatments. Wedding parties should book the dreamy Cliff House, a private event venue hanging over the jeweled bay.
1 Bay Dr., Kapalua. www.montagekapaluabay.com. 808/662-6600. 56 units. 1-bedroom from $825; 2-bedroom from $1,125; 3-bedroom from $1,425; 4-bedroom from $2,570. Wedding/honeymoon, golf, and other packages available. Daily resort fee $30; valet parking $20. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 1 bar; babysitting; children’s and teens programs; concierge; cultural classes; fitness classes; 3 pools; room service; shuttle service; luxury spa; golf and tennis privileges at Kapalua Villas; free Wi-Fi.
Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Perched on a knoll above D. T. Fleming Beach, this resort is a complete universe. The property’s intimate relationship to Hawaiian culture began during construction: When the remains of hundreds of ancient Hawaiians were unearthed, the owners agreed to shift the hotel inland to avoid disrupting the graves. Today, Hawaiian cultural advisor Clifford Nae‘ole helps guide resort developments and hosts the Ritz’s signature events, such as the Celebration of the Arts—a weeklong, indigenous arts and cultural festival. The resplendent accommodations feature dark wood floors, plush beds, marble bathrooms, and private lanais overlooking the landscaped grounds and mostly undeveloped coast. The Ritz offers one of the best club lounges in the state, serving gourmet coffee and pastries, a lunch buffet, cookies in the afternoon, and hot appetizers and drinks at sunset. Additional amenities include several superior restaurants; a 10,000-square-foot, three-tiered pool; and the 17,500-square-foot Waihua Spa, with steam rooms, saunas, and whirlpools surrounded by lava-rock walls. Make sure to visit Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment center and explore the captivating activities for adults and kids. (You can even feed the resident pot-bellied pigs.) A bit of a hike from the resort proper, D. T. Fleming Beach is beautiful but tends to be windier and rougher than the bays immediately south; a 5-minute shuttle ride delivers you to Oneloa or Kapalua.
1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua. www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/kapalua-maui. 808/669-6200. 463 units. Double from $489; club-level double from $799; suite from $967; 2-bedroom suite from $1367; club-level suite from $1,729. Extra person $50 (club level $100). Wedding/honeymoon, golf, and other packages available. Daily $35 resort fee. Valet parking $30; self-parking $22. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars; babysitting; basketball courts; bike rentals; children’s program; club floor; concierge; cultural-history tours; fitness room with classes; 2 championship golf courses and golf academy; hiking trails; outdoor 3-tiered pool; room service; shuttle service; luxury spa; tennis complex; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Kapalua Villas The stately townhouses populating the oceanfront cliffs and fairways of this idyllic coast are a (relative) bargain, particularly if you’re traveling with a group. Several of the island’s best restaurants (Sansei, Pineapple Grill, and Merriman’s Kapalua) are within walking distance or a quick shuttle trip and you’re granted signing privileges and a discount the nearby championship golf courses. Outrigger manages the individually owned one-, two-, and three-bedroom units, which feature full kitchens, upscale furnishings, queen-size sofa beds, and large private lanais. You’ll enjoy the spaciousness—even the one-bedrooms exceed 1,200 square feet. Of the three complexes (Golf, Ridge, and Bay Villas), the Bay units are the nicest, positioned on the windswept bluff overlooking Molokai on the horizon. In the winter you can whale-watch without leaving your living room.
200 Village Rd., Kapalua. www.kapaluavillasmaui.com. 800/367-2742 or 808/665-9170. 1-bedroom from $205; 2-bedroom from $285; 3-bedroom from $395. Daily $26 resort fee; $200–$275 cleaning fee. Amenities: Restaurants and beaches nearby; concierge; in-room laundry; golf; tennis; 9 outdoor pools; resort shuttle; free Wi-Fi.
South Maui
Two recommended booking agencies rent a host of condominiums and vacation homes throughout South Maui. Condominium Rentals Hawaii (www.crhmaui.com; 800/367-5242) offers affordable, quality properties in Kihei, Wailea, and Maalaea, plus a few in Lahaina. The online spreadsheet makes it easy to compare properties. Destination Residences Hawaii, 34 Wailea Gateway Place, #A102, Wailea (www.destinationhotels.com; 800/367-5246 or 808/495-4546), is the more upscale option, offering a wide selection of luxury rentals in Wailea and Makena. One-bedroom units start at $249 and include many extras: a hospitality desk to assist with activity planning, $160 in dining and spa credits, a discount grocery card, free Wi-Fi and parking, and, in some cases, a free rental car! Tip: The Polo Beach and Makena Surf units are a bit older, but nicer and closer to the beach.
Expensive
Kohea Kai Resort Across the street from windswept Sugar Beach in North Kihei, this cheery, adults-only boutique property welcomes all, and caters especially to gay and lesbian travelers. When you book a standard room, studio, or suite, expect bright decor, comfy California king–size beds, air-conditioning (wall mount), and spacious ocean- or mountain-view lanais. Studios and suites have full kitchens or kitchenettes. The three penthouse suites are fabulous—especially #622, a gorgeous 3-bedroom retreat. Rates include a full hot breakfast. Chat with fellow guests over eggs and bagels or in the rooftop hot tub, where you can take in the panoramic view of Maalaea Bay and the West Maui Mountains. Maui’s best beaches are a short drive away; the owners supply beach chairs and coolers.
551 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.koheakai.com. 808/879-1261. 26 units. Double from $369; studio from $389; suite from $489; Penthouse suite from $529. Extra person $45. No children allowed. Amenities: Concierge; 2 Jacuzzis (rooftop hot tub is clothing-optional); pool; free parking; no resort fee; free Wi-Fi.
Mana Kai Maui Resort Even the views outside the elevator are astounding at this eight-story hotel/condo, which practically has its toes in the sand of beautiful Keawakapu Beach. Every unit in the 1973 building is oceanfront (though many lack views). Most, if not all, have been renovated with contemporary, island-inspired furnishings. The north-facing hotel rooms, which account for half of the units, have no lanais and are small enough to be filled by their king-size beds and kitchenettes. The one- and two-bedroom condos have full kitchens, sitting areas, and small lanais that overlook the glittering Pacific and several islands on the horizon. There’s a surf shack on-site, along with a gourmet grocery/deli, oceanfront restaurant, and yoga studio. Fun fact: The lobby’s iconic turtle mural appears in the film Just Go With It.
2960 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.manakaimaui.com. 800/525-2025 or 808/879-1561. 98 units. $284 hotel room double; 1-bedroom from $357; 2-bedroom from $431. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; barbecues; concierge; coin-operated laundry; daily maid service; outdoor pool; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Aston Maui Hill This condo complex with Mediterranean-style stucco buildings, red-tile roofs, and three-stories-tall arches marks the border between Kihei and Wailea—an excellent launching pad for your vacation. Managed by the respected Aston chain, Maui Hill combines the amenities of a hotel—24-hour front desk, concierge, pool, hot tub, tennis courts, putting green, and more—with the convenience of a condo. Units are spacious, with ample kitchens, air-conditioning (welcome in this climate), washer/dryers, queen-size sofa beds, and roomy lanais—most with ocean views. (For prime views, seek out units #35 and #36.) Two of South Maui’s best beaches are across the street; restaurants, shops, and golf courses are nearby. Check the website for significant discounts.
2881 S. Kihei Rd. (across from Kamaole Park III, btw. Keonekai St. and Kilohana Dr.), Kihei. www.astonmauihill.com. 855/945-4044 or 808/879-6321. 140 units. 1-bedroom from $229; 2-bedroom from $325; 3-bedroom from $510. Weekly rates discounted. Amenities: Concierge; putting green; outdoor pool; whirlpool; tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Eva Villa At the top of the Maui Meadows neighborhood above Wailea, Rick and Dale Pounds have done much to make their affordable B&B one of Maui’s classiest. The hillside location offers respite from the shoreline’s heat—and yet it’s just a few minutes’ drive to the beaches, shopping, and restaurants of both Kihei and Wailea. The tastefully designed cottage has a decent-size kitchen and living room, smallish bedroom, washer/dryer, and a sweet outdoor shower. The poolside studio is a single, long room with a huge kitchen and barstool seating. The suite next door has two bedrooms and a kitchenette. You aren’t forced to be social here; continental breakfast (fresh fruit, juice, muffins, coffee) comes stocked in your kitchen. And with just three units, the luxurious pool deck is rarely ever crowded.
815 Kumulani Dr., Kihei. www.mauibnb.com. 808/874-6407. 3 units. $155–$225 double, includes continental breakfast. Cleaning fee $75. Extra person $40. 5- to 7- night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Heated outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Maalaea Surf Resort Despite its name, this little-known beachfront retreat isn’t in Maalaea, nor is it a resort. Rather, it’s a collection of charming condos spread out across 5 acres at the far north end of Kihei. The four-unit townhouses with double-hipped roofs all have ocean views, big kitchens (with dishwashers), cable TV, and central air conditioning—a nice perk in summer. Sugar Beach, the adjacent salt-and-pepper stretch of sand, extends 3-plus miles to Maalaea. Often windy, it’s not the best for swimming, but it’s unmatched for sunsets (and whale-watching in winter). This is a decent headquarters for adventurers who want to explore the entire island. The property is nonsmoking.
12 S. Kihei Rd. (at N. Kihei Rd. and Mokulele Hwy. 311), Kihei. www.maalaeasurfresort.com. 800/423-7953 or 808/879-1267. 34 units. 1-bedroom from $245; 2-bedroom from $350; 5-night minimum. Amenities: Concierge; 2 outdoor pools; barbecues; shuffleboard; 2 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Maui Coast Hotel The chief advantage of Kihei’s sole hotel is location, location, location. It’s less than a block from sandy, sun-kissed Kamaole Beach Park I and within walking distance of South Kihei Road’s bars, restaurants, and shopping. Another plus: nightly entertainment at the popular pool bar. Guest rooms are smallish, with sitting areas, huge flatscreen TVs, central air, and private garden lanais—no ocean views, though. Throughout the hotel, you’ll find wonderful paintings by local artist Avi Kiriaty. Book the less-expensive “deluxe room” over the somewhat cramped “one-bedroom suite,” unless you absolutely need the extra privacy. The ami ami restaurant serves reasonably priced local and organic dishes.
2259 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.mauicoasthotel.com. 808/874-6284. 265 units. Double from $265; suite from $295; 1-bedroom from $335. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Daily resort fee $25. Extra person charge $30. Packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pool bar w/entertainment; free use of bicycles; concierge; rental car desk; fitness center; laundry facilities; outdoor pool (plus children’s pool); 2 whirlpools; room service; 2 lighted tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Maui Kamaole Directly opposite Kamaole Beach Park III’s sandy beach, enormous lawn, and playground, this comfortable condo complex is ideal for families. Convenience is key here in the center of Kihei’s beach and shopping zone. Each roomy, privately owned and furnished unit comes with an all-electric kitchen, central air, two bathrooms, and two private lanais. The one-bedroom units—which can easily accommodate four—are a terrific deal, especially during low season. Ground-floor units open onto a grassy lawn. The attractively landscaped property runs perpendicular to the shoreline, and some buildings (indicated by room numbers that start with E, F, K, L, and M) are quite a trek from the beach. Families with small children should seek out units beginning with A, B, G, or H, which are nearest to the beach but off the road. C units are close to both beach and pool.
2777 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.mauikamaole.com. (Maui Condo and Home management site.) 844/430-0606. 316 units (not all in rental pool). 1-bedroom from $190; 2-bedroom from $246. $40 booking fee. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools; 2 whirlpools; 2 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Dreams Come True on Maui After several years of vacationing on Maui, Tom Croly and Denise McKinnon moved here to open this dreamy B&B. They offer a stand-alone cottage and two private suites in their house, which is centrally located in the Maui Meadows neighborhood, just a 5- to 10-minute drive from the shopping, restaurants, golf courses, and beaches of Kihei and Wailea. Each colorfully decorated suite has a private entrance and lanai, kitchenette, 42-inch TV, air-conditioning, and use of laundry facilities. Continental breakfasts are offered room-service style: Choose from the menu of freshly baked pastries, mangoes right off the tree, and pop tarts. Hang your order on your door, and in the morning, it’ll be delivered at your chosen time. Rooms are a bit tight, but you’re free to use the oceanview deck, living room, and outdoor cooking area. The one-bedroom cottage has ocean views from several rooms, vaulted ceilings in the living room, wraparound decks, and marble in the kitchen and bathroom. Tom is on duty as a personal concierge, doling out beach equipment and suggestions for where to snorkel, shop, or eat dinner.
3259 Akala Dr., Kihei. www.dreamscometrueonmaui.com. 877/782-9628 or 808/879-7099. 3 units. Suites (4-night minimum) from $125; cottage (6-night minimum) from $169. $125 cleaning fee; extra person $15. Continental breakfast included with suites. Amenities: Concierge; free Wi-Fi.
Kealia Resort This oceanfront property at the northernmost end of Kihei isn’t a resort, but it is worth a second look. From the outside, the older building might seem shabby, but on the inside the privately owned units shine—and rates are excellent. Avoid the lower-priced studios facing noisy Kihei Road. Instead, go for one of the oceanfront units (such as no. 203, which hangs over the pool). All have full kitchens, washer/dryers, and private lanais with truly spectacular views of 3-plus-mile-long Sugar Beach. Twice a week the management hosts social events for guests to mingle: Wednesday pupu parties and Friday morning coffee-and-doughnut get-togethers. Tip: Ask for some leeway with the 10am checkout time.
191 N. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.kealiaresort.com. 800/265-0686 or 808/879-0952 51 units. Studio from $130; 1-bedroom from $170; 2-bedroom from $225. Kids under 13 stay free in parent’s room. Extra person $10. Cleaning fee $75–$125. Booking fee $25. 4- to 10-night minimum. Amenities: Outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Nona Lani Cottages Family-owned since the 1970s, this oceanside retreat is one of North Kihei’s sweetest deals. Eight tiny vintage cottages are tucked among the coconut palms and plumeria trees, a stone’s throw from Sugar Beach. Inside is everything you’ll need: a compact kitchen, a separate bedroom with a queen-size bed, air-conditioning, and a cozy lanai—not to mention updated cabinetry and travertine tile floors. The three suites in the main house are stuffy; stick to the cottages. The charming grounds include a barbecue area and outdoor hale for weddings or parties—but no pool or spa. Your hosts, the Kong family, don’t offer daily maid service, but they do make fresh flower leis—buy one and fill your cottage with fragrance. Wi-Fi is spotty here.
455 S. Kihei Rd. (just south of Hwy. 31), Kihei. www.nonalanicottages.com. 808/879-2497. 11 units. Double from $188; Cottage from $218. Extra person $25. 2- night minimum or $55 cleaning fee applies. Free parking. Amenities: On-site wedding coordinator; free Wi-Fi.
Pineapple Inn Maui Enjoy a resort vacation at a fraction of the price at this oasis in residential Maui Meadows, luxuriously landscaped with tall coconut palms, dinner-plate-sized pink hibiscus, a lily pond, and—best of all—a saltwater pool that’s lit at night. The four guest rooms in the two-story “inn” are equally immaculate: Each has upscale furnishings, a private lanai with a serene ocean view, and a kitchenette that your hosts, Mark and Steve, stock with pastries, bagels, oatmeal, juice, and coffee upon arrival. The bright and airy cottage (two bedrooms, one bath) is one of the island’s best deals. Landscaped for maximum privacy, it has a full kitchen, dark wood floors, central air, beautiful artwork, and a private barbecue area. Guests are invited to stargaze from the communal hot tub and make use of the fully equipped outdoor kitchen. Shopping, beaches, restaurants, and golf are minutes away and you can borrow snorkeling equipment, beach chairs, umbrellas, boogie boards, and a cooler to take on your outdoor adventures.
3170 Akala Dr., Kihei. www.pineappleinnmaui.com. 877/212-MAUI (6284) or 808/298-4403. 5 units. Double from $169; Cottage from $235. 3-night minimum for rooms, 6-night minimum for cottage. Room rates include breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Saltwater pool; watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Punahoa Beach Condominiums This oceanfront condo sits on a large grassy lawn between the Charley Young surf break and Kamaole I Beach—an ideal headquarters for active sun-seekers. Each unit in the small four-story building boasts a lanai with a marvelous view of the Pacific and islands on the horizon. All are individually owned and decorated, so the aesthetic varies widely. (The website features photos of each.) Studios feature queen-size Murphy beds, full bathrooms, and compact, full-service kitchens. The three one-bedroom penthouses—the only units with air conditioning—are the sweetest option. Kihei’s shops and restaurants are within walking distance.
2142 Iliili Rd. (off S. Kihei Rd., 300 ft. from Kamaole Beach I), Kihei. www.punahoabeach.com. 800/564-4380 or 808/879-2720. 15 units. Studio from $139; 1-bedroom from $239; 2-bedroom from $284; 1-bedroom penthouse from $264. $125–$150 cleaning fee. Extra person $15. 5-night minimum ($100 surcharge on shorter stays). Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Two Mermaids on Maui B&B Your mermaid hosts, Juddee and Miranda, are both avid scuba divers, and the colorful decor throughout their charming B&B reflects their love of the sea. In the large, two-bedroom Ocean Ohana, the marine theme continues from the turquoise walls and dark stranded bamboo floors all the way to the kitchenette’s fish-shaped cabinet knobs. This breezy, clean unit has air-conditioning, its own hot tub, and an adjoining “Surf Room” with bunk beds that’s available for families. The equally stylish Poolside Suite opens up to the refreshing rock-lined pool. Every morning, Juddee places a deluxe continental breakfast (Greek yogurt, tropical fruits, and homemade banana bread) at your doorstep. Other amenities include Direct TV, barbecues, beach gear, and a tuned guitar in each unit for strumming island serenades. The house sits in a quiet residential cul-de-sac just a 3-minute drive (or 20-min. walk) from Kamaole III Beach. Juddee is a licensed minister and can perform weddings. She’ll also help you book massages or childcare.
2840 Umalu Place, Kihei. www.twomermaids.com. 808/874-8687. 2 units. Double from $135, includes continental breakfast. 3–5 night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Babysitting; barbecue; beach equipment; pool; free Wi-Fi.
What a Wonderful World B&B Repeat guests here adore hostess Eva Tantillo, whose years of experience in the travel industry shows in thoughtful touches around her lovely property. Every unit is lovingly furnished with hardwood floors, Hawaiian quilts, and luxurious slate showers. The Guava Suite is smallest and a little dark for my taste. The Papaya Suite, with its spacious living room, bathroom, and separate bedroom, is just right. Eva serves continental breakfast on the lanai, with views of the ocean, West Maui Mountains, and Haleakala. You’re also welcome to use the full kitchen or barbecue. For movie nights, the common area has a gigantic TV and a fancy popcorn maker. This elegant B&B is centrally located in a residential Kihei neighborhood—next door to Two Mermaids, above—about a half-mile from Kamaole III Beach Park and 5 minutes from Wailea’s golf courses, shopping, and restaurants. Bonus: No minimum stay or cleaning fee; cash discount.
2828 Umalu Place (off Keonakai St., near Hwy. 31), Kihei. www.amauibedandbreakfast.com. 808/879-9103. 4 units. Double from $145, includes breakfast. Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. Amenities: Beach equipment; barbecue; laundry facilities; free international calls; free Wi-Fi.
Wailea
Golfers should note that all Wailea resorts enjoy special privileges at the Wailea Golf Club’s three 18-hole championship courses: Blue, Gold, and Emerald.
Note: You’ll find the following hotels on the “Hotels & Restaurants in South Maui” map (p. 369).
Expensive
Andaz Maui at Wailea The Andaz continues to garner rave reviews—small wonder, considering its prime beachfront locale, chic decor, apothecary-style spa, and two phenomenal restaurants, including one by superstar chef Masaharu Morimoto. Foodies should look no further: Not only is the Morimoto Maui sushi bar a must, but the resort’s other restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen, might be even better. Before you eat, though, you’ll want to freshen up in your room. Accommodations here aren’t the island’s largest, but they ramp up the style quotient a notch with crisp white linens, warm wood furniture, and midcentury accents. Wrap yourself in a plush robe and nosh on the complimentary minibar snacks from the sanctuary of your private lanai. Wander past the tiered infinity pools (which look best at night, when lit in a shifting palette of colors). Then hit gorgeous Mokapu Beach out front to snorkel, kayak, or paddle outrigger canoe. This resort is a dynamic blend of modern and ancient values. Visit with the resident artist in the lobby gallery, or learn to braid ti-leaf leis and make coconut fiber cordage. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Awili Spa, where you can mix your own massage oil and body scrubs. Fitness classes and outrigger canoe excursions are complimentary, and you even have a free GoPro to use for the duration of your stay. If you splurge on one of the resort’s two-, three-, or four-bedroom villas—you’ll have an entire wall that opens to the Pacific, a private plunge pool, and a Viking range to call your own.
3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. https://maui.andaz.hyatt.com. 808/573-1234. 198 units. Double from $487; 1-bedroom suite from $694; call for villa prices. Resort fee $40. Valet parking $30. Amenities: 3 restaurants, 24-hr. market; 3 bars; concierge; 24-hr. fitness center; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole golf courses; 4 cascading infinity pools; 24-hr. room service; shuttle service; luxury spa and spa pool; watersports equipment rentals; free fitness classes and excursions; free minibar; free Wi-Fi.
The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui At first blush, this blinding-white complex of Arabian turrets looks a tad out of place—but once you enter the orchid-filled lobby and see the big blue Pacific outside, there’s no doubt you’re in Hawaii. For the price of a regular room at the neighboring resorts, you get an entire suite here. Each unit in the all-suites hotel has a kitchenette with granite countertop, living room with sofa bed (great for kids), spacious bedroom, marble bathroom (head immediately for the deep soaking tub), and large lanai with views of the pools, lawns, and Pacific Ocean. The beachfront villas are perfect for families or couples traveling together. The two-story units each have two or three bedrooms, a gourmet kitchen, washer/dryer, and private plunge pool just steps from the white sand. Polo Beach is public, but feels private and secluded. Huge murals and artifacts decorate the resort’s manicured property, which is home to several good restaurants, an excellent bakery and deli, and the Willow Stream Spa. Escape into this heavenly retreat to experience the rain showers, steam rooms, and warm lava-stone foot beds. Youngsters can build volcanoes in the kids’ club, or practice swimming with a mono-fin in “Mermaid University,” while the entire family can get into rhythm paddling a Hawaiian outrigger canoe.
4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.fairmont.com/kealani. 866/540-4456 or 808/875-4100. 450 units. Double from $409, suite from $553; villa from $1,775. $38 resort fee. Valet parking $27; free self-parking. Amenities: 4 restaurants, gourmet bakery & deli; 3 bars; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; 24-hr. fitness center; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole courses; 2 large pools; adults-only pool; 140-ft. water slide and swim-up bar, 24-hr. room service; luxury spa and salon; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Words fail to describe how luxurious you’ll feel rubbing elbows with celebrities in this über-elegant yet relaxed atmosphere. Perched above Wailea Beach’s golden sand, the Four Seasons inhabits its own world, where poolside attendants anticipate your needs: cucumber slices for your eyes? Mango smoothie sampler? Or perhaps your sunglasses need polishing? The adults-only infinity pool with underwater music and a swim-up bar is what all pools aspire to. The roughly 600-sq.-ft. guest rooms feature dream-inducing beds, deep marble bathtubs, walk-in showers big enough for two, and furnished lanais, most with superlative ocean views. If you get stuck with a North Tower room over the parking lot, ask politely to be moved. The sublime spa offers an incredible array of body treatments ranging from traditional Hawaiian to craniosacral and Ayurvedic massage. (As nice as the spa facility is, treatments in the oceanside thatched hale are even more idyllic.) The resort’s restaurants, Spago, Ferraro’s, and DUO, are great; room service here is a must. Finally, this might be the island’s most kid-friendly resort: Perks include milk and cookies on arrival, toddler-proofing for your room (everything from furniture bumpers to toilet-seat locks), keiki menus in all restaurants, a high-tech game room, and the unmatched, complimentary Kids for all Seasons program from 9am to 5pm. No resort fee. Tip: Wedding parties should book #798 or #301—stunning suites with room for entertaining.
3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.fourseasons.com/maui. 800/311-0630 or 808/874-8000. 380 units. Double from $599; club floor from $1,409; suite from $1,349. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Packages available. Valet parking $29. Amenities: 3 restaurants, 4 bars w/nightly entertainment; babysitting; free use of bicycles; free children’s program; concierge; concierge-level rooms; putting green; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole courses; fitness center with classes; 3 outdoor pools; room service; luxury spa and salon; 2 on-site tennis courts; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi ($20 for premium).
Grand Wailea Built by a Japanese multimillionaire at the pinnacle of Hawaii’s fling with fantasy megaresorts, the Grand Wailea is the grand prize in Hawaii vacation contests and the dream of many honeymooners. No expense was spared during construction: Some $30 million worth of original artwork decorates the grounds, much of it created expressly for the hotel by Hawaii artists and sculptors. More than 10,000 tropical plants beautify the lobby alone, and rocks hewn from the base of Mount Fuji adorn the Japanese garden. A Hawaiian-themed restaurant floats atop a man-made lagoon, and light filters majestically through the stained-glass walls of the wedding chapel. Guest rooms come with lavish, oversize bathrooms and plush bedding. But for kids, all that matters is the resort’s unrivaled pool: an aquatic playground with nine separate swimming pools connected by slides, waterfalls, caves, rapids, a Tarzan swing, a swim-up bar, a baby beach, and a water elevator that shuttles swimmers back to the top. If this doesn’t sate them, an actual beach made of real golden sand awaits just past the resort hammocks. The Grand is also home to Hawaii’s largest and most resplendent spa: a 50,000-square-foot marble paradise with mineral soaking tubs, thundering waterfall showers, Japanese furo baths, Swiss jet showers, and many other luxurious features. Dining options include Humuhumunukunukuapuaa, the aforementioned floating restaurant where you can fish for your lobster straight from the lagoon. Minimalists may scoff, but the Grand Wailea’s extravagance is worth experiencing even if you don’t stay here.
3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.grandwailea.com. 800/888-6100 or 808/875-1234. 780 units. Double from $543; suite from $1,049; Napua Club Room from $599; Hoolei Villas from $1,036. Membership rates available. Extra person $50 ($100 in Napua Tower). Daily resort fee $30. Valet parking $30. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 4 bars; art and garden tours; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; concierge-level rooms; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole courses; fitness center and classes; 5 whirlpools (including one atop a man-made volcano); adults-only outdoor pool; 2,000-ft.-long pool with a swim/ride through grottoes; room service; scuba-diving clinics; shuttle service to Wailea; Hawaii’s largest luxury spa and salon; racquetball court; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Hotel Wailea This stylish boutique hotel is one of a kind in Wailea, the only Relais & Châteaux property in Hawaii. Compared with the flashier resorts at the coastline, it’s small, secluded, and serene—an oasis for honeymooners. The pool and cabanas are swank, with free cocktails by the fire pit from 5 to 6pm and mixology classes every Sunday morning. The verdant grounds and koi ponds have been transformed into a meditative garden. Large suites are outfitted with modern luxuries: wide-planked wood floors, Hawaiian kapa-inspired prints on plush king-size platform beds, deep soaking tubs, and daybeds on the lanai. Tidy kitchenettes feature Nespresso machines, two-burner Wolf stoves and Sub-Zero refrigerators. Hotel staff will load up a free tote bag with towels and water and chauffeur you throughout Wailea in the resort’s Mercedes SUV. It’s a 3-minute shuttle to the beach, and the hotel’s kiosk at Wailea Beach will supply you with umbrellas and chairs. Take advantage of the free outrigger canoe trip offered on Wednesdays. This isn’t a place that nickel-and-dimes guests, and employees come to know you on a first-name basis. Definitely plan to indulge at the new restaurant, Ondine, run by the culinary masterminds from Senia on Oahu. Brides- and grooms-to-be, take note: The lawn and gazebo at the hotel’s entrance is a fairy-tale venue for weddings and receptions.
555 Kaukahi St., Wailea. www.hotelwailea.com. 866/970-4167 or 808/874-0500. 72 units. Suite from $499. 2-person max occupancy. Daily $30 resort fee. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; concierge; fitness center; outdoor pool; room service; free shuttle service; free mixology classes and canoe trips; organic garden and orchard; signing privileges at nearby Grand Wailea; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Airy and comfortable, this recently renovated resort accentuates rather than overwhelms its sublime environment. Eight buildings, all low-rise except for an eight-story tower, unfold along 22 luxurious acres of lawns and gardens punctuated by coconut palms. You’ll want to spend your entire vacation beneath the cabanas at the exquisite infinity pool. Unless you’re age 12 or under—then your parents will have to drag you away from the adventure pool with its four slick slides and animal sculptures that spit water. The resort is positioned on a grassy slope between Wailea and Ulua beaches, so there’s plenty of sandy real estate to explore, too. Rooms have tile or wood floors, modern furnishings, and lanais with views of the picturesque coastline. The small Mandara Spa offers an array of treatments (from massages to body wraps and rejuvenating facials) in a very Zen atmosphere. Just downstairs is Roy Yamaguchi’s newest restaurant: Humble Market Kitchin. Kids can fuel up on shave ice and poke at the Mo Bettah Food Truck.
3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.waileamarriott.com. 808/879-1922. 547 units. Doubles from $451; suite from $579; 2-bedroom from $679. Packages available. Extra person $40. Daily $35 resort fee. Valet parking $35, self-parking $25. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; cafe; food truck; luau, babysitting; concierge; use of Wailea Golf Club’s 3 18-hole golf courses; fitness center; outdoor pools (1 adults-only and 1 kids-only); room service; spa; use of Wailea Tennis Center’s 11 courts; free watersports equipment and bike rentals; free Wi-Fi in lobby ($15–$19 in room).
Upcountry Maui
Makawao
Here you’ll be (relatively) close to Haleakala National Park; Makawao is approximately 90 minutes from the entrance to the park at the 7,000-foot level (from there it’s another 3,000 ft. and 45 min. to get to the top). Temperatures are 5° to 10° cooler than at the coast, and misty rain is common.
Aloha Cottage If getting away from it all is your goal, this exotic retreat in the eucalyptus forest above Makawao might be your place. On 5 luxuriously landscaped acres sits the octagonal Aloha Cottage and Thai Tree House, both reminiscent of something you’d see in Southeast Asia. The 590-square-foot cottage’s interior is lavishly furnished with vaulted ceilings, teak floors, Oriental rugs, and intricate Balinese carvings. (Whenever you glance at your reflection in the magnificent bathroom mirror, you’ll feel like royalty.) Both the Cottage and Tree House feature granite counters, a gas stove, and teak cabinetry that makes cooking a pleasure. Olinda Road is a winding, narrow track that ascends through the trees above Makawao—coming and going from here is an adventure unto itself. After a day of exploring Maui, it’s a sweet relief to enjoy a home-cooked dinner on the lanai, soak in the outdoor tub built for two, and retire to the king-size cherrywood bed where you can stare through the skylight at the stars.
1879 Olinda Rd., Makawao. www.alohacottage.com. 808/573-8555. 2 units. Cottage $259, tree house $239. $100 cleaning fee. Not suitable for children under 10. Amenities: Outdoor tub; barbecue; laundry facilities; free Wi-Fi.
Banyan Bed & Breakfast Retreat Shaded by huge monkeypod trees, this upcountry estate on meandering Baldwin Avenue has a humble, old Hawaii ambience. Accommodations include 3 suites within a nicely restored 1927 plantation manager’s house and 4 individual cottages. Each suite has a queen-size and a twin bed (perfect for families traveling with youngsters), a marble shower, a private entrance, a modest kitchenette, hardwood floors, and antique furniture. The cottages feature similar amenities; some (such as Gardenia) have full kitchens and bathtubs. Each morning, Marty, the retreat’s proprietor, delivers a continental breakfast to your door. Fruit trees and flowers decorate the property; hammocks and swings hang from the branches of the massive shade trees. Guests have the use of a 50-foot-long saltwater swimming pool, Jacuzzi, and 700-square-foot yoga and meditation studio equipped with yoga props and a sophisticated audio/video system. This fully handicapped-accessible retreat is ideal for groups, and the house, decorated with vintage Hawaiian furniture, can be rented as a whole. Makawao’s restaurants and shops are just minutes away, and Paia’s beaches are less than a 15-minute drive from here.
3265 Baldwin Ave. (less than a mile below Makawao), Makawao. www.bed-breakfast-maui.com. 808/572-9021. 7 units. Double from $185; Cottage from $185. Entire estate $1,300. Extra person $30, children 12 and under $15. Cleaning fee $30–$40. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Babysitting; whirlpool; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Hale Hookipa Inn Makawao Cherie Attix restored this historic 1924 plantation-style home to its original charm, filling it with Hawaiian artwork, antique furniture (a giant oak armoire, wrought-iron bed frame, and vintage shutters repurposed as a headboard), and a generous dose of love. It’s a 5-minute walk from the shops and restaurants of Makawao, 15-minute drive from beaches, and an hour’s drive from the top of Haleakala. The pretty guest rooms have separate outside entrances and private bathrooms—two with claw-foot tubs. The Kona Wing is a two-bedroom suite with use of the kitchen. In addition to a daily continental breakfast, Cherie offers guests fresh eggs from her hens. Unlike many B&B operators, she allows 1-night stays—perfect for hikers wanting a head start on Haleakala in the morning. Best of all: She sponsors a terrific “volunteer on vacation” program. Lend a hand at one of the dozen local organizations listed on her website and she’ll knock 5% off of your stay at Hale Ho’okipa. (And the experience will undoubtedly be the highlight of your vacation.)
32 Pakani Place, Makawao. www.maui-bed-and-breakfast.com. 877/572-6698 or 808/572-6698. 4 units. Double from $140, includes continental breakfast. $15 surcharge for 1-night stays. No children under 9. Amenities: Tropical fruit orchard; voluntourism program; free Wi-Fi.
Lumeria Halfway between Paia and Makawao on Maui’s scenic North Shore, a historic women’s college has been lovingly restored as a boutique resort. Nestled into six landscaped acres are two-dozen guest rooms, a resplendent lobby, yoga studio, spa, meditation garden, and farm-to-table restaurant. A small but dazzling pool overlooks a valley full of waving sugarcane as hammocks sway in the ironwood trees. The crystals, sacred artwork, and objets d’art tucked into every corner contribute to the charmed ambience of this serene retreat. Rooms are small—nearly filled by their plush four-poster beds—but luxuriously appointed with organic Italian linens, Japanese tansu cabinets, and showers with river-rock floors. A stay includes access to daily yoga, meditation, horticulture, and aromatherapy classes, as well as breakfast for two at the chic, semi-private restaurant, Wooden Crate. Baldwin Beach is only 2½ miles away; the staff will set you up with stand-up paddleboard equipment or pack a picnic for an excursion to Hana.
1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. www.lumeriamaui.com. 808/579-8877. 25 units. Double from $279; suite from $325, includes organic breakfast. Resort fee $25 per person. Amenities: Restaurant; spa; concierge; 2 whirlpools (1 saltwater); outdoor pool; watersports equipment rental; yoga and aromatherapy class; free Wi-Fi.
East Maui: On the Road to Hana
Note: You’ll find the accommodations in this section on the “Upcountry & East Maui” map (p. 381).
Paia-Kuau
Expensive
Paia Inn Embedded in colorful Paia town, this vibrant boutique inn offers a stylish introduction to Maui’s North Shore. The inn comprises several vintage buildings that get progressively closer to the turquoise waters of Paia Bay. The owner’s impeccable style seeps into every corner of the inn, from the organic Malie bath products in the travertine-tiled showers to the antique Balinese drawers repurposed as sink cabinets. The rooms in the main building hang right over Hana Highway’s restaurants, surf shops, and cafes. The one- and two-bedroom suites in the next buildings are spacious, secluded retreats where you’ll feel immediately at home. My favorite, #10, has a private outdoor shower and four-poster daybed. But it can’t rival the three-bedroom beach house nestled up against the golden, sandy beach. Idyllic in every way, this miniature mansion is outfitted with a Viking stove, Jacuzzi, gorgeous artwork, and a huge outdoor living room. It’s exclusive enough to attract celebrities, who’ve made it their Maui headquarters. In the courtyard behind the lobby, the Paia Inn Café serves outstanding brunch. Massages are available in the upstairs spa rooms.
93 Hana Hwy., Paia. www.paiainn.com. 800/721-4000 or 808/579-6000. 17 units. Double from $189; 1-bedroom suite from $399; 2-bedroom suite from $499; 3-bedroom beach house from $1,000. Amenities: Restaurant, beach access; concierge; day spa; laundry services; free parking; free use of watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
The Inn at Mama’s Fish House The Gaudí-esque architect responsible for Mama’s Fish House also works his magic on a handful of private suites and cottages next door. Amidst the coconuts on a pocket-sized beach, the Inn at Mama’s features large private lanais with barbecues; imaginative Hawaiian artwork; fresh flowers tucked into large, fluffy bath towels; terrific toiletries; free laundry; and an easy stroll to Mama’s Fish House, what many consider to be the finest restaurant on Maui. Each unit is unique; the luxury junior suites are especially classy, with deep soaking tubs and travertine showers. One- and two-bedroom cottages sit amid the tropical garden’s red ginger, while a few two-bedroom units face the ocean. Restaurant guests stroll about the property until 10pm, but privacy is assured in your cottage’s large enclosed lanai. In the morning, you’ll be greeted with a tray of fresh fruit and banana bread. The inn sits on a small, sandy beach known simply as Mama’s. It’s better for exploring tide pools than for swimming—though Baldwin Beach is a short drive away and the thrills of Hookipa are right next-door. Keep in mind that this is the windward side of the island—it’s often windy and rainy. You’ll be perfectly situated here for a trip to Hana.
799 Poho Place (off the Hana Hwy. in Kuau), Paia. www.mamasfishhouse.com. 800/860-HULA or 808/579-9764. 12 units. Garden studio from $275; 1-bedroom from $300; junior suite from $425; 2-bedroom cottage from $350. Amenities: Beach; barbecue; free laundry; free Wi-Fi.
Haiku
Maui Dream Cottage Danielle Chomel and her husband rent out a piece of their hidden paradise in Haiku. She’s an expert orchid grower, and her blooms and bromeliads cover every inch of the property, from the entrance gate onwards. He’s a classic car buff, and if you ask nicely he might show you his immaculate antique Porsche and Devins. Tucked in a corner of their fecund fruit orchard and garden, the two-bedroom cottage is comfortably furnished with a smallish kitchen, washer/dryer, a California king–size bed with Tempur-Pedic mattress in each of the cozy bedrooms, and a pullout futon in the living room. The off-the-beaten-path location is quiet and restful, offering a window into how real islanders live. It’s a 3-minute walk to a great breakfast spot, but you’ll have to drive 20 to 25 minutes to access Paia’s restaurants, shopping, and beaches.
265 W. Kuiaha Rd., Haiku. www.mauidreamcottage.com. 808/575-9079. 1 unit, shower only. $140 double. Extra person $15. 7-night minimum. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Pilialoha B&B Cottage In the heart of Haiku, this country cottage is set on a large lot with towering eucalyptus trees and some 200 varieties of roses blooming in the garden. Tastefully appointed in green and white, the cottage has warm wood floors and is private, clean, and spacious. The kitchen and closets are extremely well equipped—you’ll find everything you need, from a rice cooker to beach towels, coolers, yoga mats, and fleece jackets for Haleakala sunrise trips. Your hosts, Machiko and Bill, live on-site and are happy to offer sightseeing suggestions. If you mention to Machiko that you’re heading up the mountain, she’ll likely send you off with a thermos of coffee and her homemade bread. The cottage is minutes from the restaurants and shopping of Haiku and Makawao and a short drive from Paia’s beaches. In the winter months when Haiku weather can be cool and rainy, the gas fireplace is a welcome amenity.
2512 Kaupakalua Rd. (½-mile from Kokomo intersection), Haiku. www.pilialoha.com. 808/572-1440. 1 unit. $165 double. Suitable for a couple only. 3-night minimum. Amenities: Watersports equipment; laundry facilities; free Wi-Fi.
At the End of the Road in East Maui: Hana
Note: You’ll find Hana accommodations on the map on p. 323.
Expensive
Travaasa Hana Ahhh . . . arriving at Travaasa (formerly the Hotel Hana Maui) is like letting out a deep sigh. The atmosphere is so relaxing you’ll forget everything beyond this remote seaside sanctuary. Nestled in the center of quaint Hana town, the 66-acre resort wraps around Kauiki Head, the dramatic point where Queen Kaahumanu was born. All of the accommodations here are wonderful, but the Ocean Bungalows (adults only, except over the holidays) are downright heavenly. These duplex cottages face the craggy shoreline, where horses graze above the rolling surf. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors open to spacious lanais. Book your stay here a la carte or all-inclusive; the latter includes three meals, snacks, and a treatment in one of the planet’s nicest spas. Whichever you choose, your room will be stocked with luxurious necessities: plush beds with organic linens, bamboo floors, giant soaking tubs, complimentary bottled water, Fair Trade coffee, homemade banana bread, and irresistibly scented bath products. You’ll be far from shopping malls and sports bars, but exotic red-, black-, and white-sand beaches are just a short walk or shuttle ride away. The genuinely hospitable staff will set you up with numerous activities, many at no charge. Try stand-up paddling in Hana Bay, practice your archer’s aim, take a tour of a nearby tropical fruit farm, or learn to throw a traditional Hawaiian fishing net. Rooms have no TVs (the Club Room has a giant one), but there are nightly talk-story sessions around the fire. This is luxury in its purest form. Tip: Stay 3 nights and fly for free from Kahului to Hana Airport.
5031 Hana Hwy., Hana. www.travaasa.com/hana. 888/820-1043. 66 units. $450 single a la carte; $700 single inclusive; $500 double a la carte; $1000 double inclusive. Children stay free, can purchase $75 daily meal plan. Amenities: 2 restaurants (w/Hawaiian entertainment Sun evenings); 2 bars (entertainment nightly); concierge; fitness center/fitness classes; complimentary clubs and use of the 3-hole practice golf courses; 2 outdoor pools; limited room service; luxury spa; tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Bamboo Inn This oceanfront, solar-powered “inn” is really just three exquisite suites, all with private lanais overlooking Waikaloa Beach’s jet-black sand. The sumptuous accommodations include beds with ocean views, separate living rooms, and either a full kitchen or kitchenette. Naia, the largest unit, sleeps four and has a deep soaking tub on the lanai. The rooms and grounds are decorated with artifacts that your friendly and knowledgeable host, John Romain, collected during travels across Asia and Polynesia. Carved Balinese doors, Samoan tapa cloths, coconut wood floors, and a thatched-roof gazebo (where breakfast is served) add a rich and authentic elegance to a naturally lovely location. Waikaloa isn’t great for swimming, but it’s an incredible spot to watch the sunrise. All of Hana is within easy walking distance.
Uakea Rd. (between Waikaloa and Keanini rds.; look for the sign), Hana. www.bambooinn.com. 808/248-7718. 3 units. $210–$285 double. Extra person $15. Rates include continental breakfast. 2-night minimum. Amenities: Beach, beach equipment; barbecue; free Wi-Fi (but only available in outdoor gazebo).
Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow This Eden-like property has two units: a bungalow and a house. Romance blooms in the 600-square-foot Balinese-style treetop bungalow, a gorgeous one-room studio with a beckoning bamboo bed, full kitchen, and a hot tub that hangs over the garden. The screened lanai and area downstairs function as separate rooms, giving you ample space. The house is just as spacious and lovingly decorated, with a large master bedroom and small second bedroom. Both the house and bungalow have private outdoor lava rock showers and access to tropical fruit trees and flowers. The property is on Hana Highway, just a 10-minute walk from Hamoa Beach.
Hana Hwy., between two entrances to Haneoo Rd., 2 miles south of Hana. www.vrbo.com/28451. 808/248-7884. 2 units. Bungalow $285–$310; house $325–$420. 3-night minimum. Amenities: Beach nearby; barbecue, hammock, beach equipment; barbecue; outdoor shower; whirlpool; free Wi-Fi.
Hamoa Beach House Just around the bend from famed Hamoa Beach, this enormous 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom house is a great option for families or big parties. The rich woods, earthy tones, and rattan furnishings imbue the spacious interior of this ’70s-era house with a cozy, nostalgic feeling. The living room has cathedral ceilings and two-story-tall windows that open up to the ocean. The upstairs bedrooms have vaulted ceilings, outdoor lanais, and a total of four king-size beds. A sweet little library is stocked with beach reading. Beneath the coconut palms outside, you’ll find hammocks, a barbecue grill, a hot tub, and an outdoor shower—everything you need to enjoy Hana to the fullest.
487 Haneoo Rd., Hana. www.hamoabeachhouse.com. 808/248-8277. 1 unit. $525–$575 house (sleeps up to 8). 3-night minimum. Amenities: Beach nearby; beach equipment; barbecue; outdoor shower; whirlpool; free Wi-Fi.
Hana Kai Maui Resort “Condo complex” might not mesh with your idea of getting away from it all in Hana, but Hana Kai is truly special. Set on Hana Bay, the individually owned units are dotingly furnished and feature many hotel-like extras, such as organic bath products and fresh tropical bouquets. Studios and one- and two-bedroom units have kitchens and private lanais—but the corner units with wraparound ocean views are worth angling for. Gorgeously appointed Kaahumanu (#5) has a daybed on the lanai that you may never want to leave. For couples, Popolana (#2) is small but sweet, with woven bamboo walls and a Murphy bed that no one ever puts up. And why would you? You can lie in it and stare out to sea or, at daybreak, watch the sun rise straight out of the ocean. No air-conditioning or TVs—but they’re not necessary here.
1533 Uakea Rd., Hana. www.hanakaimaui.com. 800/346-2772 or 808/248-8426. 18 units. $210–$308 studio; $235–$325 1-bedroom; $425–$465 2-bedroom. Extra person $15. 2-night minimum for beachfront units. Children 6 and under stay free in parent’s room. Amenities: Black-sand beach; beach equipment; barbecue; daily housekeeping; laundry facilities; breakfast service (for a charge); free Wi-Fi (free).
Hana Oceanfront Cottages Serenity reigns at this plantation-style cottage and villa on the corner lot above beautiful Hamoa Bay. Your attentive hosts, Sandi and Dan Simoni, will stock your cottage with fresh flowers and arty postcards and light the tiki torches after sundown. The second-story villa has a Wolf stove and three sets of glass doors that open up to a 40-foot long lanai with a soul-soothing view. (The Simonis live below.) The freestanding, 600-square-foot cottage likewise has a gourmet kitchen, huge lanai, and an outdoor shower—exactly what you want after swimming at the beach next door.
522 Haneoo, Hana. www.hanabythesea.com. 808/248-7558. 2 units. $335–$375. 3-night minimum. $60 cleaning fee. Amenities: Barbecue; beach gear; free Wi-Fi.
Hana Ocean Palms Bungalow This bungalow’s location—opposite Waioka Pond (Venus Pool)—is perfect for adventurers who want to shed the trappings of modern life and dive deep into island culture. Spend your days relaxing in the hammock, jumping off the waterfall across the street, swimming at the black-sand beach, or exploring the nearby taro farm and national park trails. This rustic cabin is far from it all—stock up on groceries before heading here. Remember, this is country living: At night the rain might rattle against the tin roof, and if a gecko or two finds its way inside, consider it good luck.
Hana Hwy. btw. Waiohonu and St. Peter Church rds., Hana. www.hanapalmsbungalow.com. 800/327-8097 or 808/248-8980. 1 unit. $245–$275 cottage (sleeps 4). Extra person $15. 2-night minimum. $50 cleaning fee for under 4 nights. Amenities: Barbecue; use of beach equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Hana’s Tradewind Cottages On a 5-acre flower farm, nestled amid pink gingers and scarlet heliconias, you have a choice of two rentals: the Hana Cabana or the Tradewinds Cottage. Each is sequestered in its own private corner of the farm and has a full kitchen, private hot tub, carport, and barbecue. Best for couples, the Cabana is a studio with vaulted ceilings and coconut palm–themed decor. The two-bedroom Tradewinds Cottage has a queen-size bed in one room and two twins in the other, one bathroom (with shower only), and a sizable living room and front porch. Days here are indescribably serene, and stars fill the sky at night. Guests are welcome to pick fruit from the surrounding banana and avocado trees, and you’ll almost certainly want to take a box of tropical flowers home with you.
135 Alalele Place (the airport road), Hana. www.hanamaui.net. 800/327-8097 or 808/248-8980. 2 units. $175–$195 double. Extra person $25. 2-night minimum. $50 cleaning fee for 3 nights or less. Amenities: Barbecue; whirlpool; free Wi-Fi (but spotty service).
Camping
Camping on Maui can be extreme (inside a volcano) or laid back (by the sea in Hana). It can be wet, cold, and rainy, or hot, dry, and windy—often all on the same day. If you’re heading for Haleakala, remember that U.S. astronauts trained for the moon inside the volcano; pack survival gear. You’ll need both a swimsuit and raincoat if you’re bound for Waianapanapa. Bring your own equipment—Maui has no place that rents camping gear.
Camp Olowalu Halfway to Lahaina on the Honoapiilani Highway, this campground abuts one of the island’s best coral reefs. It’s perfect for snorkeling and (during winter) whale watching. (You can hear the whales slap their fins against the sea’s surface at night—a magical experience.) Tents sites are $20 with access to porta-potties and outdoor showers. Tentalows have twin or king beds with linens, private outdoor showers. They’re close to the highway, but still cheap-ish at $80 per night ($95 during holiday season). Large groups can rent the six A-frame cabins with bathrooms, showers, and a kitchen. If you’re tent camping, make sure a rowdy wedding party isn’t booked that night. Either way, bring earplugs. You can rent kayaks here, too.
800 Olowalu Village Rd., Lahaina (off Honoapiilani Hwy.). www.campolowalu.com. 808/661-4303. 6 cabins, 36 tent sites. Tent sites: $20 per night adults ($5 per night children 6–12). Tentalows: $80–$95 (2-night minimum). Cabins: $750–$1,100 for all 6 cabins (sleeps 36, 2-night minimum); contact camp for individual rates.
Haleakala National Park This stunning national park offers a variety of options for campers throughout its diverse landscape: car camping at Hosmer’s Grove halfway up the summit or at Oheo Gulch in Kipahulu; pitching a tent in the central Haleakala wilderness; or cozying up in one of the crater’s historic cabins. The first three are free (aside from the $25 park entrance fee). No permit is required, but there’s a 3-night limit. The cabins cost a flat $75, whether you rent them for 1 or 12 people.
Hosmer Grove, located at 6,800 feet, is a small, open grassy area surrounded by forest and frequented by native Hawaiian honeycreepers. Trees protect campers from the winds, but nights still get very cold; sometimes there’s even ice on the ground up here. This is an ideal spot to spend the night if you want to see the Haleakala sunrise. Come up the day before, enjoy the park, take a day hike, and then turn in early. Facilities include a covered pavilion with picnic tables and grills, chemical toilets, and drinking water.
On the other side of the island, Oheo Campground is in the Kipahulu section of Haleakala National Park. You can set up your temporary home at a first-come, first-served drive-in campground with tent sites for 100 near the ocean. Tip: Get here early in the day to snag one of the secluded oceanfront sites under a shady hala tree. The campground has picnic tables, barbecue grills, and chemical toilets—but no potable water, so bring your own. Bring a tent as well—it rains 75 inches a year here. Call the Kipahulu Ranger Station ( 808/248-7375) for local weather.
Inside the volcano are two wilderness tent-camping areas: Holua, just off the Halemauu Trail and Paliku, 10 miles away, near the Kaupo Gap at the eastern end of the valley. Both are well over 6,000 feet in elevation and chilly at night. Facilities are limited to pit toilets and nonpotable catchment water. Water at Holua is limited, especially in summer. No open fires are allowed inside the volcano, so bring a stove if you plan to cook. Tent camping is restricted to the signed area and is not allowed in the horse pasture or the inviting grassy lawn in front of the cabins. Permits are issued at park headquarters daily from 8am to 3pm on a first-come, first-served basis on the day you plan to camp. Occupancy is limited to 25 people in each campground.
Also inside the volcano are three wilderness cabins, built in 1937 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Each has 12 padded bunks (bring your own bedding), a table, chairs, cooking utensils, a two-burner propane stove, and a wood-burning stove with firewood. The cabins are spaced so that each one is a nice hike from the next: Holua cabin is 3.7 miles down the zigzagging Halemauu Trail, Kapalaoa cabin is 5.5 miles down the Sliding Sands Trail, and Paliku cabin is the farthest, at 9.3 miles down Sliding Sands and across the moonscape to the crater’s eastern end. In spring and summer, the endangered ‘ua‘u (Hawaiian dark-rumped petrel) can be heard yipping and chortling on their way back home to their cliffside burrows. Some campers and hikers exit through the Kaupo Gap—8.6 miles to the remote Piilani Highway. You can reserve cabins up to 6 months in advance on the park’s reservation website (www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777). You’re limited to 2 nights in 1 cabin and 3 nights total in the wilderness each month.
Note: All wilderness campers must watch a 10-minute orientation video at the park’s visitor center.
Haleakala National Park, at top of Crater Rd., and at Kipahulu Visitor Center, 12 miles past Hana on Hana Hwy. www.nps.gov/hale. 808/572-4400. 3 cabins, 100-plus tent sites. $75 flat rate for cabins; tent campers free (aside from $25 park entrance fee). Cabins by reservation only.
Polipoli State Park High up on the slope of Haleakala, at 6,200 feet in elevation, this state park has extensive trails that wind through conifer forests reminiscent of the Pacific Northwest. It’s frequently cold and foggy here—be prepared for extra-chilly nights! One eight-bunk cabin is available for $90; it has a cold shower and a gas stove but no electricity or drinking water (bring your own). Tent-campers can pitch on the grass nearby. Reserve on the website (the cabin must be reserved in person at the Wailuku office) and print out your permit, which must be displayed. Note: The park is only accessible by 4WD vehicles.
9¾ miles up Waipoli Rd., off Kekaulike (Hwy 377); 4WD vehicle recommended. By reservation only: c/o State Parks Division, 54 S. High St., Room 101, Wailuku. www.dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/camping-lodging/maui. 808/984-8109. 1 cabin. $90 per night (sleeps 8). $18 for 1st tent-camper, $3 for additional campers. 5-night maximum.
Waianapanapa State Park The 12 rustic cabins tucked in the hala (pandanus) groves of Waianapanapa State Park are one of the best lodging deals on Maui. Each cabin has six twin bunks, a full kitchen (minus oven), and large lanai where you can wile away the hours watching rainstorms roll in from sea. Cabins #5 and #6 are closest to the water. They’ve recently been spiffed up, but they’re still frequented by geckos and are fairly Spartan. You can also pitch a tent above the black-sand beach on Pailoa Bay. Watch the sun rise out of the ocean and beat the crowds to the beach. There’s an on-site caretaker, along with restrooms, showers, picnic tables, shoreline hiking trails, and historic sites. Bring rain gear and mosquito protection—this is the rainforest, after all. Reserve tent sites and cabins on the website (or in person at the Wailuku office) and print out your permit, which must be displayed.
End of Waianapanapa Rd., off Hana Hwy. By reservation only: c/o State Parks Division, 54 S. High St., Room 101, Wailuku. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui/waianapanapa-state-park. 808/984-8109. 10 units. $90 per cabin per night (sleeps up to 6). $18 for 1st tent-camper, $3 for additional campers. 5-night maximum.
When it comes to dining in Maui, all I can say is: Come hungry and bring a fat wallet. Dining has never been better on the Valley Isle, home to numerous enterprising and imaginative chefs. The farm-to-table concept has finally taken root on this bountiful island, where in past years up to 90% of the food had been imported. Today chefs and farmers collaborate on menus, filling plates with tender micro-greens and heirloom tomatoes picked that morning. Fishers reel in glistening opakapaka (pink snapper), and ranchers offer up flavorful cuts of Maui-grown beef.
A new crop of inspired chefs is taking these ripe ingredients to new heights. At Ka‘ana Kitchen, Chef Isaac Bancaco nearly outshines his celebrity neighbor, “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto (who brought his high-octane Japanese fusion cuisine to Wailea). Both are outstanding; make time for each if you can swing it. On the other side of the island, at Chef Gerard Reversade continues to plate up perfect French cuisine at Gerard’s, while Jojo Vasquez adds exciting Filipino accents to the gourmet dishes at the Plantation House. Stellar dining experiences all, with prices to match. You don’t have to spend a fortune to eat well here—Maui does have a few budget eateries, noted below. Among the best is Tin Roof, by Top Chef star Sheldon Simeon. If you want to feast, there’s never been a better time to do so on Maui.
Central Maui
Kahului and Wailuku have a few tasty finds. Minutes outside of the airport in a windy dirt lot across from Costco, you’ll find an array of food trucks dishing out everything from pork belly sandwiches to poke (seasoned raw fish).
Moderate
Bistro Casanova MEDITERRANEAN Hungry and marooned in Kahului? Head to this Mediterranean bistro for sweet and savory crepes, traditional Italian pastas, or a giant bowl of paella. The casual but classy restaurant fills with business lunchers at noon. It’s more relaxed at dinner (unless there’s a big show at the nearby Maui Arts & Cultural Center—then it will be hopping). It offers a private room for big parties and a full bar for pau hana (after work) drinks.
33 Lono Ave., Kahului. www.casanovamaui.com. 808/873-3650. Lunch main courses $9–$18; dinner main courses $14–$32. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm, 5–9pm.
Marco’s Grill & Deli ITALIAN Located just outside the airport, Marco’s offers decent Italian fare in an upscale diner with black-and-white booths and white linens on the tables. Portions tend to be huge, and everything is made in house, from the meatballs, sausages, and burgers to the sauces and salad dressing. Favorites include chicken Parmesan and vodka rigatoni.
395 Dairy Rd., Kahului. 808/877-4446. Breakfast $6–14; lunch and dinner main courses $12–$39. Daily 7:30am–9:30pm.
A Saigon Cafe VIETNAMESE It’s hard to say which is better at this beloved neighborhood restaurant—the delicious Vietnamese cuisine or the hilarious waiters who make wisecracks while taking your order. Whatever you order—the steamed opakapaka with ginger and garlic, one of a dozen soups, the catfish simmering in a clay pot, or the fragrant lemongrass curry—you’ll notice the freshness of the flavors. Owner Jennifer Nguyen grows many of her own vegetables and herbs and even sprouts her own mung beans. My favorites are the Buddha rolls dunked in spicy peanut sauce and the Vietnamese “burritos.” You make the latter tableside—tricky at first, but fun.
1792 Main St., Wailuku. www.asaigoncafe.com. 808/243-9560. Main courses $9–$27. Mon–Sat 10am–9:30pm, Sun 10am–8:30pm. Heading into Wailuku from Kahului, go over the bridge and take the 1st right onto Central Ave.; then take the 1st right on Nani St. At the next stop sign, look for the building with the neon sign that says open.
Inexpensive
Down to Earth ORGANIC HEALTH FOOD Stop in here for a vegetarian snack or bag full of local organic produce. During mango season, this full-service natural-foods store carries as many as three different locally grown varieties of the fruit—worth their weight in gold. The deli includes creative salads, lasagna, chili, curries, and dozens of tasty dishes—including gluten-free and vegan options. Deli attendants can whip up a faux Reuben sandwich or tasty meatless burger for you. The upstairs dining area is plain but convenient.
305 Dairy Rd., Kahului. www.downtoearth.org. 808/877-2661. Self-serve hot buffet, salad bar, and deli; food sold by the pound; average $7–$12 for a plate; sandwiches $6–$11. Mon–Sat 6am–10pm, Sun 7am–9pm.
Poi by the Pound HAWAIIAN/PLATE LUNCH When in Hawaii, do as the Hawaiians and eat poi—steamed taro root pounded with water and slightly fermented. A small bowl of this traditional staple starch comes with the Hawaiian feast; mix it with the salty kalua pork or lomi salmon and enjoy. Otherwise order my favorite dishes: the creamy squid luau (octopus simmered with taro leaves in coconut milk) and the laulau (pork and butterfish wrapped in savory taro leaves like a present and steamed). Poke bowls may be the rage on the mainland, but they originated here in the islands. Try the spicy or shoyu poke made with locally caught tuna. Save room for dessert: coconut ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce and chunks of taro.
430 Kele St., Kahului. www.poibythepound.com. 808/283-9381. Entrees $8–$24. Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–5pm.
David and Ululani Yamashiro are near-religious about shave ice. At their multiple shops around Maui, these shave-ice wizards take the uniquely Hawaiian dessert to new heights. It starts with the water: Pure, filtered water is frozen, shaved to feather lightness, and patted into shape. This mini-snowdrift is then doused with your choice of syrup—any three flavors from calamansi lime to lychee to red velvet cake. David makes his own gourmet syrups with local fruit purees and a dash of cane sugar. The passion fruit is perfectly tangy, the coconut is free of cloying artificial sweetness, and the electric green kiwi is studded with real seeds. Add a “snowcap” of sweetened condensed milk, and the resulting confection tastes like the fluffiest, most flavorful ice cream ever. Locals order theirs with chewy mochi morsels, sweet adzuki beans at the bottom, or tart li hing mui powder sprinkled on top. The Wailuku location also has manapua (steamed buns) and chow fun noodles. Lahaina: 790 Front St.; Kaanapali: [in Hyatt Regency] 200 Nohea Kai Dr. Wailuku: [in Safeway center] 58 Maui Lani Pkwy Ste. 5000; Kahului: 333 Dairy Rd.; and Kihei: 61 S. Kihei Rd. www.ululanisshaveice.com. 
360/606-2745. Daily 10:30am–6:30pm (until 10pm in Lahaina).
Sam Sato’s NOODLES/PLATE LUNCH Hidden away in Wailuku’s industrial area, this humble, family-owned eatery dates back to 1933. It’s one of Maui’s last ma-and-pa eateries, and everything on the menu is under $10. Sit at the cafeteria-like counter and strike up a conversation with your neighbor. Try your dry mein (al dente noodles served with slices of char siu pork, bean sprouts, green onions, and broth on the side) with a side order of grilled teriyaki meat sticks. On the way out, stock up on Sam Sato’s other famous specialty: baked manju, flaky pastries filled with sweetened lima or adzuki beans.
At the Millyard, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku. 808/244-7124. Plate lunches $8–$9. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 7am–2pm; 7am–4pm bakery and preordered takeout items.
Tin Roof FILIPINO/PLATE LUNCH Celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon won the hearts of Top Chef fans not just once, but twice, and Maui residents couldn’t adore him more. After launching Star Noodle (p. 396) into fame, he and his wife, Janice, opened their own business—a humble to-go spot in an industrial strip mall in Kahului. The menu, inspired by his Filipino roots, is so much fun: buy a 50-cent “dime bag” of house-made furikake to sprinkle on your mochiko chicken. Add a 6-minute egg to your pork belly bowl. You’ll want to Instagram yourself eating the chocolate b’day cake bibingka, covered in party-colored sprinkles.
360 Papa Pl., Kahului. www.tinroofmaui.com. 808/868-0753. Everything under $9. Mon–Sat 10am–2pm.
West Maui
Lahaina
Expensive
The Feast at Lele POLYNESIAN The Feast at Lele stands out from other luaus as the gourmand’s choice. Although most luau seating is en masse, guests here sit at elegant tables in the sand facing a cirque-inspired stage. As the sun dips into the sea behind you, chanting dancers regale you with stories of Polynesia. You’ll progress from Hawaii to New Zealand, Tahiti, and Samoa, feasting on each island nation’s culinary specialties in turn. During the opening hula, you’ll sample Hawaiian fish with mango sauce and imu-roasted kalua pig. While watching the exciting Maori haka, you’ll eat New Zealand sea bean and duck salad. Pace yourself; each of the four savory courses includes three dishes—and then there’s dessert, accompanied by a fantastic fire knife dance! The swish of ti-leaf skirts and the beat of the drums enhance the meal’s flavors; it’s a sensory experience even for the most jaded luau-goer.
505 Front St., Lahaina. www.feastatlele.com. 866/244-5353 or 808/667-5353. Reservations required. Set 5-course menu (includes all beverages) $130 adults, $99 children 2–12. Apr 1–Sept 30 daily 6:30pm seating (to 9:30pm); Oct 1–Mar 31 daily 5:30pm seating (to 8:30pm).
Gerard’s FRENCH Chef Gerard Reversade has called Hawaii home for nearly 4 decades, but his French accent hasn’t lost one cédille. His charming residence-turned-restaurant beneath the Plantation Inn in Lahaina is equally authentic. I never would’ve imagined that a simple chilled cucumber soup could be transcendent—but this one is, its delicacy amplified by goat cheese and fresh dill. The roasted opakapaka served with fennel fondue and spiked with hints of orange and ginger is stellar, as is the grilled Hawaiian filet with salsify au gratin. Chef Reversade is every bit as much of a baker as a chef, and the savory dishes that incorporate pastry—such as the Hamakua mushroom appetizer—are delights. The dessert menu has a half-dozen excellent offerings, including a marvelous millefeuille and chocolate mousse with pistachio ice cream.
At the Plantation Inn, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina. www.gerardsmaui.com. 808/661-8939. Reservations recommended. Main courses $39–$58. Daily 6–10pm.
Lahaina Grill NEW AMERICAN For more than 2 decades, this classy restaurant has been collecting accolades for its perfectly executed island cuisine, gracious service, and great wine list. The striking decor—splashy artwork by local painter Jan Kasprzycki, pressed-tin ceilings, and warm lighting—creates an appealing atmosphere. The bar, despite lacking an ocean view, is among the busiest in town and often features special pricing. The menu hasn’t strayed much over the years; fans will still find their favorites: the prawn-stuffed blue corn chile rellano, the aromatic Kona coffee–roasted rack of lamb, and memorable triple berry pie. If you’re planning a special event or a large party, you can book a private room and design your own menu with the chef.
127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina. www.lahainagrill.com. 808/667-5117. Reservations required. Main courses $35–$96. Daily 5:30–9 or 10pm. Bar daily 6–10pm (closing earlier on slow nights).
Pacific’O Restaurant SEAFOOD/CONTEMPORARY PACIFIC RIM You can’t get any closer to the ocean than these tables overlooking the beach at 505 Front Street. Start with flash-fried oysters and wakame seaweed salad or lobster ravioli. Move on to saffron beet risotto studded with seared shrimp and chunks of seafood. Vegetarians will delight in the Portobello mushrooms with quinoa and cilantro pesto. (The kitchen sources ingredients from its own O’o Farm up in Kula.) This is a superb and relatively affordable lunch spot. Indulge in ginger-crusted fish or Kalbi beef tacos and glass of spicy Syrah while watching the ships sail by.
505 Front St., Lahaina. www.pacificomaui.com. 808/667-4341. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$20 lunch, $27–$46 dinner. Daily 11:30am–3:30pm and 5:30–9:30pm.
Moderate
Fleetwood’s on Front Street AMERICAN Rock and Roll Hall of Famer Mick Fleetwood ventured into the restaurant business with commendable results. His snazzy eatery occupies the top two floors of a lovingly restored three-story building on Front Street. For dinner, choose from locally grown salads, fresh fish entrees, or a Harley-Davidson Hog burger—hold the Harley. I find the food a little lackluster, but the atmosphere is outstanding. The dining room’s cozy booths and wraparound bar evoke an older, more sophisticated era. But the real draw is the rooftop dining—plus the live entertainment. Tip: Nightly at 6pm, local musicians offer a short, free performance, ranging from bagpipes to Hawaiian chanting. Mick and his celebrity friends often pop in to play a set. When it rains, the upstairs seating is closed.
744 Front St., Lahaina. www.fleetwoodsonfrontst.com. 808/669-6425. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$48. Daily 5–10pm.
Frida’s Mexican Beach House MEXICAN Mark Ellman owns three restaurants in a row on the beautiful seashore fronting Mala Wharf. Frida’s, his latest, features Latin-inspired cuisine in a breezy dining room accented with pretty Mexican tiles and wrought-iron chandeliers. Sip one of 40 tequilas at the open-air bar. Rib-eye mojo de ajo and grilled Spanish octopus with tomatillo salsa and fresh guacamole are delicious, especially on the romantic oceanfront lanai.
1287 Front St., Lahaina. www.fridasmaui.com. 808/661-1287. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$40. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
Honu PIZZA/SEAFOOD Snag an oceanfront table where the gentle tide nearly tickles your toes and spy on the green sea turtles for whom this restaurant is named. Honu’s diverse menu is guaranteed to please someone in your party, from the fried oyster sandwiches and authentic Neapolitan pizzas to the wok-fried Dungeness crab. The Middle Eastern kale salad will turn doubters into believers: Finely chopped kale is massaged with preserved lemon vinaigrette and tossed with bittersweet walnuts, rich and salty pecorino shavings, sweet slivers of chewy dates, and pomegranate seeds that burst on the tongue. Gluten-free and keiki (children’s) menus are available, along with an extensive offering of draft beers, single malt scotches, and handcrafted cocktails.
1295 Front St., Lahaina. www.honumaui.com. 808/667-9390. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$48. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
Lahaina Coolers AMERICAN/INTERNATIONAL The huge marlin hanging above the bar and persimmon-colored walls set a cheery tone at this casual indoor/outdoor restaurant. On Sunday, breakfast is served until 1pm. The huevos rancheros come in a sizzling cast-iron skillet heaped with kalua pork, and you have your choice of eggs Benedict: classic; Cajun, with seared fish and salsa; and the “Local” with kalua pork and sweetbreads. Spicy entrees dominate the lunch menu, such as Evil Jungle Pasta spiked with peppery Thai peanut sauce or whaler’s stew—a poor man’s cioppino. Prices increase at dinner but are still a fraction of what you’d pay at most Front Street establishments. Dinner is served until midnight.
180 Dickenson St., Lahaina. www.lahainacoolers.com. 808/661-7082. Main courses $8–$15 breakfast, $11–$16 lunch, $17–$28 dinner. Daily 8am–1am.
Mala Ocean Tavern AMERICAN/INTERNATIONAL This tiny tavern overlooking Mala Wharf in Lahaina is perfect. Brighter and classier than “tavern” suggests, the oceanfront seating lets diners peer down on sea turtles foraging in the surf. The bartenders know their business, and the complimentary edamame guacamole alerts your taste buds that something delicious is about to happen. The menu offers health-conscious and hedonistic options, from the gado gado (a vegan Indonesian rice dish heaped with sugar-snap peas and coconut peanut sauce) to the insanely rich and delicious adult mac and cheese (an oven-baked medley of three cheeses and Hamakua mushrooms). The weekend brunch is among Maui’s tastiest, with local organic eggs served in Benedicts, chilaquiles, and huevos rancheros.
1307 Front St., Lahaina. www.malaoceantavern.com. 808/667-9394. Main courses $12–$27 lunch, $17–$49 dinner; brunch $6–$32. Mon–Fri 11am–9:30pm; Sat–Sun 9am–9:30pm.
Star Noodle NOODLES/FUSION This hip noodle house at the top of Lahaina’s industrial park offers a deceivingly simple menu of noodles and share plates. The hapa ramen, with its smoky pork and spicy miso broth, is guaranteed to be unlike any you’ve had before. Each dish is a gourmet twist on a local favorite; the Lahaina fried soup isn’t soup at all but thick and chewy house-made noodles tossed with ground pork and bean sprouts. The ahi avo is a divine mix of fresh red tuna and buttery avocado swimming in a pool of lemon-pressed olive oil and spiked with sambal. With its long communal table, Shepard Fairey artwork, and glamorous washrooms, this casual eatery has an urban feel. From the window seats you can catch a hint of an ocean view—just enough to remind you that you’re still in Hawaii.
286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina. www.starnoodle.com. 808/667-5400. Main courses $7–$30. Daily 10:30am–10pm.
Inexpensive
Aloha Mixed Plate PLATE LUNCH/BEACHSIDE GRILL This long-time local favorite just got a major makeover. You can still get the beachfront eatery’s classics: fresh-made chow mein, Korean kalbi ribs and coconut prawns fried golden brown, but now you can also dig into kalo-flower mash (taro root mashed with cauliflower and butter) and a scrumptious chicken katsu “sammy” with slaw and tonkatsu sauce on a potato flour bun. A welcome novelty: some of the new ingredients have been roasted in the traditional Hawaiian imu (underground oven) at the luau grounds next door. Imu-roasted beets have a savory smokiness and the short ribs . . . are . . . mmm . . . meltingly good. The bar got an upgrade, too. Toss back a Maui Mule or try an adult shave ice: finely shaved ice doused with berry puree and SKYY Vodka.
1285 Front St., Lahaina. www.alohamixedplate.com. 808/661-3322. Main courses $9–$22. Daily 8am–10pm.
Choice Health Bar GOURMET DELI/CAFE This health-conscious juice bar and cafe is where the beautiful people in Lahaina come to fuel up. After a taxing morning of stand-up paddling past sea turtles, re-energize here with a sunrise acai bowl drizzled in honey and a “game changer”—iced cold brew coffee shaken with macadamia nut milk, vanilla, and maple syrup. Daily lunch specials include wholesome soups and savory rawviolis—a vegetarian reinvention of pasta. The plate lunches are an edible rainbow of scrumptious kale salad, coconut-garlic quinoa, and ruby red beet soup, with a bonus dessert.
1087 Limahana Place (off of Honoapiilani Hwy.), Lahaina. www.choicehealthbar.com. 808/661-7711. Breakfast and lunch main courses $6–$12; dinner $12–$14. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 9am–1pm.
Leoda’s SANDWICHES/BAKERY As you approach the counter, you’ll see why the line stretches to the door: a glass case full of banana and coconut pies slathered in fresh whipped cream. The savory pies are just okay. But the sweet pies—especially the chocolate macadamia nut praline—are intergalactic. For breakfast, the outstanding seared ahi Benedict come with pesto, watercress, avocado, and local eggs. For lunch, the Ham’n sandwich is a hot and juicy mess of duroc ham, island pesto, melted Jarlsberg cheese, and apricot-tomato jam on buttered rye bread. Leoda’s belongs to the Star Noodle, Old Lahaina Luau, and Aloha Mixed Plate restaurant family—a crew that knows how to please. The eatery’s bright decor pays homage to Maui’s bygone plantation days.
820 Olowalu Village Rd. (off of Honoapiilani Hwy), Lahaina. www.leodas.com. 808/662-3600. Breakfast items $3–$19; lunch/dinner items $4–$16. Daily 7am–8pm.
Maui Sunrise Café CAFE For a bargain lunch or breakfast, follow the surfers to this hole-in-the-wall located just off Front Street. (The address says Front St., but it’s really off of Market, across from the library.) The kitchen turns out tasty breakfast burritos, a lox Benedict with home-fried potatoes, and decent sandwiches. Service can be slow, but the prices can’t be beat in this neighborhood. Eat in the covered patio out back or take it to go and picnic in the adjoining park.
693A Front St., Lahaina. 808/661-8558. Breakfast items under $11; lunch items $7–$12. No credit cards. Daily 7am–4pm.
Ono Gelato Company CAFE/ICE CREAM Who doesn’t want to hang out on a picnic bench perched over the Lahaina surf while eating creamy gelato? This classy creamery uses locally sourced lilikoi (Hawaiian passion fruit), mango, and coffee to craft rich and flavorful scoops of gelato and sorbets. The coffee bar opens for breakfast, and the baristas make a mean affogato—gelato drowned in two shots of espresso. The back patio is the best spot to chill in town—and it has free Wi-Fi.
815 Front St., Lahaina. 808/495-0203. Most items under $7. Daily 8am–10pm.
Penne Pasta Café ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN With outdoor seating on a Lahaina side street, this casual spot features delicious Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Order at the counter, and the manager delivers your pasta, pizza, or salad Niçoise to your table. It’s a sit-down meal at takeout prices. The penne puttanesca, baked penne with braised beef, and lamb osso buco (Wed night special) are wonderful. Try the oven-roasted butternut squash simmered in almonds and sage.
180 Dickenson St., Lahaina. www.pennepastacafe.net 808/661-6633. Main courses $9–$18. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
Sala Pepe ITALIAN The menu at this small Italian bistro changes to reflect what’s in season, but the quality stays consistent. This husband and wife team (she’s from Brooklyn, he’s from Milan) puts a ton of love into their handcut pastas and pizza pies. Don’t be surprised to see top chefs from nearby restaurants dining here on their day off. Daily specials include heavenly ravioli fatti in casa with short rib ragu, or sopprasata piccante pizza. Everything is written on the chalkboard in Italian—if you can’t understand it, don’t worry. It all translates as delicious.
In Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina. www.salepepemaui.com. 808/667-7667. Main courses $8–$16 lunch, $10–$28 dinner. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm and 5–10pm.
Kaanapali
Expensive
Japengo SUSHI/PACIFIC RIM The open-air dining room hanging over the Hyatt pool is divided into multiple private nooks, evoking the feel of a Japanese teahouse. Meander inside for superb Japanese-influenced entrees and inspired sushi, sashimi, and hand rolls. Look around for signs of tengu, a long-nosed mythological trickster and the restaurant’s mascot. Depending on what the fishermen reeled in that day, the moriawase, or chef’s platter, may include achingly red tuna, translucent slivers of Big Island hirame (flounder), poached local abalone, creamy wedges of uni (sea urchin), or raw New Caledonia prawn. The sushi wizards at the bar beautifully garnish this bounty with nests of peppery daikon and aromatic shiso leaves. Delicious vegetable sides—kabocha pumpkin, asparagus in Thai chili sauce, and lavender-honey corn—originate on nearby Simpli-Fresh farm.
At the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali. https://maui.regency.hyatt.com. 808/661-1234. Main courses $18–$69. Daily 5–10pm.
Roy’s Kaanapali HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE Roy Yamaguchi, the James Beard award–winning chef and one of the pioneers of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, owns eponymous restaurants around the world. At his Maui kitchen, try mustard glazed short ribs or rich misoyaki butterfish. The restaurant serves lunch from 11am to 2pm and a bar menu from 2 to 5pm, which features the “canoe for two,” an appetizer platter of ahi poke, pork lumpia, chicken pot stickers, Szechuan short ribs, and skewered shrimp. Hallelujah for the bartender who created the “Skinny Colada,” a cocktail that delivers the flavor of a piña colada without the overwhelming milky cream. Tip: Two words: chocolate soufflé. It takes 20 minutes to prepare, so let your waiter know you want it in advance. And when it arrives, wait a moment for it to cool—don’t burn your tongue on the hot lava chocolate!
2290 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali. www.royshawaii.com/roys-kaanapali. 808/669-6999. Lunch main courses $18–$32; dinner main courses $32–$64. Daily 11am–10pm.
Son’z Steakhouse STEAKHOUSE Descend a palatial staircase for dinner at Son’z, where tables overlook a lagoon with white and black swans swimming by. This is classy digs for a steakhouse; imagine Ruth’s Chris with extra flavor and a fairy-tale atmosphere. Chef Geno Sarmiento knows how to prepare protein; his filet is on point with “Mauishire” sauce, as is the New Zealand rack of lamb with fig sauce and kohlrabi potato puree. Sides are generally sold separately; choose from grilled asparagus, truffle mac and cheese, or the loaded baked potato: a decadent spud cooked low and slow (200° for 4 hr.) and sinfully stuffed with mascarpone, bacon bits, truffle butter, chives, and Parmesan. Finish with Portuguese sweet-bread French toast, vanilla gelato, and sweetly tart local bananas set aflame, Foster’s style.
At the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali. www.sonzsteakhouse.com. 808/667-4506. Main courses $30–$64. Daily 5:30–9:30pm.
Moderate
Duke’s Beach House PACIFIC RIM There are few more beautiful places to enjoy breakfast than here, facing Kahekili Beach. This restaurant mimics an open-air plantation home, decorated with memorabilia chronicling the life of world-famous Hawaiian surfer, Duke Kahanamoku. It’s part of the TS Restaurants family, which includes Kimo’s, Hula Grill, and Leilani’s on Maui, Keoki’s on Kauai, and Duke’s in Waikiki—among others. The menu reflects much of what you’ll find at the other locales: “onolicious” French toast made with Molokai sweet bread, omelets, and steel-cut oats for breakfast; coconut shrimp and burgers for lunch; macadamia-nut-crusted fish and steak for dinner; and the signature hula pie for dessert. What sets this restaurant apart is its gracious sea-breeze-kissed locale and the kitchen’s commitment to serving locally raised beef, eggs, and vegetables. Add to that live music during dinner and the daily “aloha hour” (3–5pm).
At Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., North Kaanapali Beach. www.dukesmaui.com. 808/662-2900. Breakfast items $7–$18; lunch main courses $9–$21; dinner main courses $18–$46. Daily 7:30am–9:30pm.
Leilani’s on the Beach STEAK/SEAFOOD With Chef Ryan Luckey running the kitchen at Leilani’s, diners can expect creative upgrades to the generic surf-and-turf: filet mignon with black truffle butter and sesame-crusted ahi steak with coconut and citrus jasmine rise. The Surfing Goat cheese plate includes a trio of delectable local cheeses, served with taro crisps and lavosh. The Beachside Grill—with tables that bank right up to Kaanapali Beach—features a separate, more casual menu. Here you can people-watch while snacking on Cajun-rubbed fish tacos or a kalua pork Cuban and tossing back a Kaanapali cosmo. Leilani’s belongs to the TS Restaurant family, so you can get the trademark Hula Pie, though I prefer the passion fruit Pono Pie made with breadfruit and without refined sugar.
At Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali. www.leilanis.com. 808/661-4495. Reservations suggested for dinner. Beachside Grill lunch and dinner main courses $12–$18; Leilani’s dinner main courses $23–$33. Beachside Grill daily 11am–11pm. Leilani’s daily 5–9:30pm.
Castaway Café AMERICAN Hidden away in the Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, this little cafe sits right on Kahekili Beach—privy to perfect views and salty breezes. Chef Lyndon Honda and the Cohn Restaurant group breathed new life into this local favorite, which has long been famous for its Saturday-night prime rib special. New menu items include a garden sandwich with edamame hummus and an array of burgers. Breakfast is extra-relaxing here. Avocado toast with two eggs and an ocean view? Yes, please!
In the Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kaanapali. www.castawaycafe.com. 808/661-9091. Main courses: $10–$15 breakfast; $12–$17 lunch; $14–$29 dinner. Daily 7:30am–9pm.
CJ’s Deli & Diner AMERICAN/DELI Need a break from resort prices? Head to this happening eatery just off of Honoapiilani Highway in Kaanapali. Prices are so low you won’t believe you’re still on Maui. The atmosphere is colorful and slightly chaotic, with a huge billboard menu that spans the back wall, shelves stuffed with souvenirs and brochures, and a . . . basketball hoop? Practice your free throws while debating over breakfast options: spinach-stuffed omelet, smoked salmon bagel, or French toast made with Hawaiian sweet bread. Lunch ranges from grilled panini sandwiches to fish and chips, mochiko chicken, and barbecue ribs. Kids can order happy-face pancakes and “squid-eyes” soup. If you’re heading out to Hana or up to Haleakala, stop by for a box lunch. Toppings are packed separately so sandwiches don’t get soggy. You can even order online for a to-go pickup.
At the Fairway Shops at Kaanapali, 2580 Kekaa Dr. (just off the Honoapiilani Hwy.), Kaanapali. www.cjsmaui.com. 808/667-0968. Breakfast items $5–$10; lunch items $9–$17; Hana Lunch Box and Air Travel Lunch Box $14 each. Daily 7am–8pm.
Joey’s Kitchen FILIPINO/PLATE LUNCH Joey Macadangdang ran the kitchen at Roy’s for many years, winning award after award for his inventive gourmet cuisine. Now he’s got two restaurants of his own: an ultra-casual spot in the Whalers Village food court and this slightly fancier eatery in Napili, where Joey and his wife will personally take care of you. If you’ve never tried Filipino food before, this is your place. Get the savory pork adobo plate, or seafood sinigang—a hot and sour medley of fish, clams, and shrimp. You’ll find familiar favorites, too: fried Brussels sprouts, and fish and chips.
5095 Napilihau St., Napili. 808/214-5590. Open Tues–Sun 10am–2pm and 4–10pm. Also at Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali. Open 8am–9pm. www.joeyskitchenhimaui.com. 808/868-4474. Entrees $9–$39.
Honokowai, Kahana & Napili
Note: You’ll find the restaurants in this section on the “Hotels & Restaurants in West Maui” map (p. 357).
Maui Brewing Co. BREWPUB Maui’s uber popular microbrewery has expanded to Oahu, but the home is where the heart is. The Kahana brewpub offers beer flights at the bar and excellent pub fare—much of it beer-battered. You can try limited-release brews here, along with the company’s standards: Bikini Blonde Ale, Big Swell IPA, Pineapple Mana, and a rich and chocolatey coconut porter. Note the cute lamps made from miniature kegs. This eco-friendly, community-minded business regularly donates a portion of its sales to the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project. The Kihei tasting room features a rotation of food trucks: Teddy’s Burgers and Aloha Thai Fusion are regulars.
At the Kahana Gateway Shopping Center, 4405 Honoapiilani Hwy. www.mauibrewingco.com. 808/669-3474. Also at 605 Lipoa Pkwy., Kihei. 808/213-3002 ext. 105. Main courses $12–$25. Daily 11am–10pm.
Sea House Restaurant PACIFIC RIM Old-fashioned and a bit dated, this oceanfront restaurant at the Napili Kai Beach Resort is a throwback to earlier days. But the view here can’t be beat. Breakfast is lovely under the umbrellas outside, overlooking serene Napili Bay. The oven-baked Crater pancake is a special treat, made with custard batter. Sunset is a good time to come, too. Sit at the Whale Watcher’s Bar and order classic cocktails and poke nachos.
At the Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Honoapiilani Hwy. www.napilikai.com. 808/669-1500. Main courses $7–$12 breakfast, $10–$16 lunch, $21–$40 dinner, appetizer menu $6–$9 served 2–5pm. Daily 7am–10pm.
Inexpensive
Maui Tacos MEXICAN Many years ago, Mark Ellman launched this restaurant chain, dedicated to Mexican food with “Mauitude.” Now it has locations as far away as Minnesota. Ellman has since moved on, but his successors healthful take on fast food will satisfy a hungry belly. Menu choices include fish tacos, chimichangas, and “surf burritos,” loaded with charbroiled chicken or slow-cooked Hawaiian pork, black beans, rice, and salsa. Other locations are at Lahaina Square, Lahaina ( 808/661-8883); Kamaole Beach Center, Kihei ( 808/879-5005); Piilani Village, Kihei ( 808/875-9340); and Kaahumanu Center, Kahului ( 808/871-7726).
At Napili Plaza, 5095 Napili Hau St., Lahaina. 808/665-0222. All items $5–$12. Mon–Sat 9am–9pm; Sun 9am–8pm.
Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN The pledge on the wall at this Honokowai hot spot—to use organic, local ingredients wherever possible and treat employees like family—gives a hint to the quality of food here. The large-ish menu includes gourmet and gluten-free pizzas with terrific toppings (barbecue chicken, smoked Gouda, cilantro), chicken shawarma, lamb gyros, kabobs, pastas, and more. The kitchen makes its own meatballs, out of grass-fed Maui Cattle Company beef, and its own sauces and dressings. But save room for dessert. The tiramisu is an award winner, and the locally made coconut gelato should be.
At the Honokowai Marketplace, 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Rd., Kaanapali. www.pizzaparadiso.com. 808/667-2929. Pastas $9–$11; pizzas $16–$27. Daily 10am–9pm.
Kapalua
Note: You’ll find the restaurants in this section on the “Hotels & Restaurants in West Maui” map (p. 357).
Expensive
Banyan Tree PACIFIC RIM This gorgeous dining room has an all new menu with a few standouts: grilled octopus with kale and macadamia nut pesto, breadfruit fondue, and a beautiful steamed snapper. The “garden to glass” cocktail menu is inspired, with muddled herbs and eclectic combinations. Try the Menehune Mule topped with a dollop of lilikoi (passionfruit) and Cointreau foam. During “Tiki Hour” from 5 to 6pm, glasses of Moet champagne and gourmet appetizers (including that tasty octopus) are half off.
At the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Resort 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Lahaina. www.ritzcarlton.com/kapalua. 808/665-7096. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses $29–$65. Daily 5–9pm.
Merriman’s Kapalua PACIFIC RIM Merriman’s Kapalua sits on a picturesque rocky point jutting out into the Pacific. As you might have guessed, it belongs to Peter Merriman, a James Beard award–winning chef who helped launch the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement in the 1990s and has restaurants on the Big Island and Kauai. He continues to champion the farm-to-table concept here, serving Keahole lobster with crispy pumpkin polenta and collards grown down the road. For the full Merriman’s experience, order the “Pupu Taster,” an entree sampler that includes the lobster, kalua pig quesadilla, crispy Hawaii Island goat cheese, and fresh ahi poke. Come before sunset to soak in the sensational scenery. If twilight tables are booked, come anyway and enjoy a handcrafted mai tai with lilikoi foam on the large patio out on the point. It’s an exceedingly romantic spot; don’t be surprised if you see a “Just Maui’d” couple stroll by or witness a neighboring diner propose. Brunch is elegant; the spicy chili ramen with pork belly and a poached egg is a welcome hangover cure.
One Bay Club Place, Kapalua Resort, Kapalua. www.merrimanshawaii.com. 808/669-6400. Reservations recommended. Main courses brunch $10–$19, dinner $24–$62. Daily 5:30–9pm. Bar menu daily 3–9pm. Sunday brunch 9:30am–1:30pm.
Moderate
Pineapple Grill AMERICAN This gracious location on the Bay golf course offers views of the azure Pacific in one direction and the misty West Maui Mountains in the other. Sadly, the once dynamic dinner menu has returned to the shallow end of the pool, with safe dishes like baked mac and cheese, cobb salads, and pork chops with sage and fingerling potatoes. You’ll be satisfied, if not wowed.
At the Kapalua Golf Club Bay Course, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua. www.pineapplekapalua.com. 808/669-9600. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $15–$32 lunch, $25–$40 dinner. Daily 11am–9pm.
Plantation House Restaurant PACIFIC RIM A dramatic destination for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, the Plantation House sits amid lush golf greens. Arrive early enough to enjoy the panoramic ocean views. Chef Jojo Vasquez’s menu features simple yet sophisticated preparations that draw on an international culinary vocabulary. His kampachi tartare, lightly dressed in dashi soy and decorated with a spicy nasturtium flower, is bright and fresh. The monchong (pomfret), served in tamarind coriander broth, is a perfect balance of sweet, sour, and salty flavors. At breakfast, enjoy a bowl of flawlessly ripe tropical fruit or choose from “Six Degrees of Benediction,” a half-dozen Benedicts made with such delicacies as lox, roasted Maui vegetables (superb), or seared ahi. On Thursday nights, “chop house” steaks occupy the menu. On Fridays, the chef and his wife team up to present “Beats and Eats,” specialty cocktails and appetizers served with DJ Eliza’s smooth tunes.
At the Kapalua Golf Club Plantation Course, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua. www.plantationhouse.com. 808/669-6299. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$18 breakfast, $11–$20 lunch, $29–$48 dinner. Daily 8am–9pm.
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar PACIFIC RIM/SUSHI With its creative take on sushi (think foie gras nigiri and “Pink Cadillac” rolls with eel, shrimp, tamago, and veggies wrapped in light pink rice paper), Sansei’s menu scores higher with adventurous diners than with purists. But expertly sliced sashimi platters and straightforward gobo rolls will accommodate even the pickiest sushi snobs. Small and big plates are meant for sharing, though you’ll fight over the last bites of misoyaki butterfish. The Dungeness crab ramen is my favorite—I like to inhale the fragrant truffle broth flecked with cilantro, Thai basil, and jalapeños. For dessert, most people go for tempura-fried ice cream or the Granny Smith apple tart with homemade caramel sauce. Tip: Thursday and Friday nights, a rousing karaoke session erupts at the bar from 10pm to 1am and sushi is 50% off. At the second location in Kihei Town Center, Kihei ( 808/879-0004), sushi is 50% off on Sunday and Monday from 5 to 6:30pm.
600 Office Rd., Kapalua Resort, Kapalua. www.sanseihawaii.com. 808/669-6286. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$43. Daily 5:30–10pm.
South Maui
Kihei/Maalaea
Note: You’ll find the Kihei restaurants in this section on the “Hotels & Restaurants in South Maui” map (p. 369).
Cafe O’Lei Kihei STEAK/SEAFOOD Over the years, chefs Michael and Dana Pastula have opened multiple Cafe O’Lei restaurants across Maui. Every one has been a winner, and this one is nicest of all. The open, airy dining room is inviting, with hardwood floors, tables separated by sheer curtains, a big circular bar in the center of the restaurant, and a sushi bar and brick oven in back. The food is delicious and a bargain to boot. Call ahead for a midday table—locals flood this place during their lunch break. For dinner, the Maui onion soup (baked in the wood-burning oven) is a savory treat with fresh thyme and brandy. The togarashi (chili) and sesame-seared ahi with ginger butter sauce and wasabi aioli over steamed rice is as good as you’ll find at fancier restaurants, here for nearly half the price. This is a great place to bring a group—the diverse menu offers something for everyone, from prime rib to sushi and even pizza with gluten-free crusts.
2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.cafeoleirestaurants.com. 808/891-1368. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$13 lunch, $15–$27 dinner. Daily 10:30am–3:30pm and 4:30–9:30pm.
Cow Pig Bun AMERICAN The anonymous entryway through the black glass building at the Maui Tech Park should tip you off: This is something different for Maui. For starters, it’s open long after most island residents have knocked off for the day. This hole-in-the-wall hosts late-night “knife fights,” during which local celebrity chefs battle for the CPB crown. It’s crazy, decadent fun, worth postponing bedtime for. From lunchtime on, this eatery is a gluttonous celebration of pork, beef, bourbon, and beer. Burgers are served on brioche buns and topped with bacon jam, bourbon pickled veggies, or Sriracha aioli. The pork belly banh mi comes with foie gras butter. The Brussels sprouts and mac-and-cheese both have devout fans—maybe something to do with bacon?
In the Kihei Tech Park, 535 Lipoa Pkwy., Ste. 100, Kihei. www.cowpigbun.com. 808/875-8100. Main courses $15–$24. Mon–Sat noon–midnight.
Monsoon India INDIAN If there’s one thing Maui could use more of, it’s Indian flavors. Thank goodness for Monsoon India, a humble restaurant at the north edge of Kihei—without it, we’d have to board a plane to enjoy piping-hot naan bread and crisp papadum. The chicken korma here is creamy and fragrant, the chana masala spicy and satisfying. Even the simple dal curry is delightful. With tables that overlook Maalaea Bay, this serene spot is lovely just before sunset—particularly during winter when whales are jumping. Note: The open-air dining room is closed when it rains.
In the Menehune Shores Bldg., 760 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. www.monsoonindiamaui.com. 808/875-6666. Main courses $15–$28. Daily 5–9pm; Wed–Sun 11:30am–2pm.
Pita Paradise GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN For fresh, flavorful Greek food cooked to order and served with creamy tzatziki sauce and rice pilaf, head to this oasis in Wailea. Owner Johnny Arabatzis, Jr., catches his own fish, which he prepares with dill scallionaise and roasted red peppers. The roasted lamb shank with gnocchi and fennel puree is a delight, if a bit heavy. A trickling fountain serenades the tables in the courtyard, which sometimes hosts musicians and belly dancers. The baklava ice cream cake is exquisite—though definitely enough to share.
34 Wailea Gateway Center. www.pitaparadisehawaii.com. 808/879-7177. Lunch main courses $10–$21; dinner main courses $19–$32. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
Inexpensive
Joy’s Place HEALTHY DELI Nourish yourself with nutritious, delicious meals at this small cafe, where the emphasis is on healthful living. For breakfast, rev your engine with an acai bowl or a still-warm spelt muffin. Soups are made daily, and sandwiches are huge, with thick slices of nitrate-free turkey piled onto sprouted grain bread—or, if you prefer, packed into a collard-green wrap. Most ingredients are organic.
In the Island Surf Bldg., 1993 S. Kihei Rd. (entrance on Auhana St.), Kihei. www.joysplacemauihawaii.com. 808/879-9258. All items under $12. Mon–Sat 7:30am–4pm.
Nalu’s South Shore Grill AMERICAN Casual, noisy, and a lot of fun, this restaurant fills an important niche in Kihei. Order at the counter, from a wide range of menu items—everything from chicken and waffles to a commendable Cubano sandwich. It’s a great place to bring the family or big groups. Extra touches show that the owners care about customer satisfaction: friendly and attentive service, a choice of flavored waters, and terrific live music, including a Saturday dinner show with local rock stars Barry Flanagan and Eric Gilliom. (It’s $25 for the show only and $55 for show plus a three-course meal. Reservations required.)
1280 S. Kihei Rd. (in Azeka’s II), Kihei. www.nalusmaui.com. 808/891-8650. Main courses $9–$18. Daily 8am–10pm.
WowWow Lemonade CAFE/JUICE BAR The cashiers at this permanent lemonade stand are a testament to their product: sweet, wholesome, and helpful. Choose from an array of fresh-squeezed lime- and lemonades made with local honey, strawberry, lilikoi, watermelon, mint, and basil. Purchase a custom Mason jar (complete with cozy and a reusable straw), and your future drinks are discounted. Trust us, you’ll want to return as often as possible. The açai and pitaya bowls are enormous and generously loaded with goodies: coconut custard, cacao, bee pollen, taro, and apple bananas. Smoothies have similar ingredients, blended with sprouted almond or coconut milk.
1279 S. Kihei Rd. (in Azeka’s II), Kihei. www.wowwowhawaiianlemonade.com. 808/344-0319. All items under $12. Daily 7:30am–4pm.
Note: You’ll find the restaurants in this section on the “Hotels & Restaurants in South Maui” map (p. 369).
Expensive
Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante ITALIAN The stunning location—overlooking Wailea Beach with an unobstructed view of the West Maui Mountains—sets the stage for a romantic (if pricey) repast, whether you dine beneath sun-splashed umbrellas by day or the starry sky at night. For lunch, indulge your inner celebrity: Sip a Prosecco or pineapple mojito and snack on a lobster melt or tartufo pizza pulled from the wood-burning oven. As the sun sinks into the Pacific, the atmosphere transforms. Live classical music casts a spell over the terraced dining area. The breadbaskets are sumptuous, freshly baked with flecks of olive. You have your choice of two sea salts to season your meal, should you so desire. The entrees are not particularly adventurous—rack of lamb with chantrelles, and seared ahi with white beans—but they are flawless. The desserts, which change often, are creative and worth every calorie.
At the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.fourseasons.com/maui. 808/874-8000. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$28 lunch, $34–$52 dinner. Daily 11am–9pm.
Humble Market Kitchin HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi pays tribute to summers spent volunteering in his grandfather’s general store at Humble Market Kitchin, which opened in late 2016 as part of the Wailea Beach Marriott Resort’s $100 million renovation. The menu features re-imagined Hawaiian comfort foods: poke (raw, seasoned fish), misoyaki butterfish with green tea soba noodles, and ramen loaded with pork belly, dumplings, a sous vide egg, and lip-smacking sesame broth. Wander around the menu sampling the signature pot stickers, unagi sushi, and Szechuan baby back ribs just as if you were a teen snacking at your favorite grandpa’s counter—only in this instance, “grandpa” is one of Hawaii’s greatest chefs. Breakfast is a lavish affair here, with Hawaiian sweet bread French toast slathered in whipped maple butter and lilikoi syrup—or, for the health conscious, avocado toast on Blue Door sourdough. For once, the ocean views live up to the food and not the other way around.
At the Wailea Beach Resort Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.hmkmaui.com. 808/879-4655. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$27 break-fast, $34 breakfast buffet, $20–$57 dinner. Daily 6:30–11am, 5–11pm.
Ka‘ana Kitchen HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE You can hardly tell where the dining room ends and the kitchen begins in this bright, open restaurant. Sit ringside where you can watch Chef Isaac Bancaco in action. Start off with a hand-mixed cocktail and the grilled octopus: fat chunks of tender meat tossed with frisée, watercress, and goat cheese. The ahi tataki is beautiful: ruby-red tuna, heirloom tomato, and fresh burratta decorated with black salt and nasturtium petals. Don’t be thrown by Bancaco’s grid menu. Treat it like a gourmet bingo card; every combo is a winner. Breakfasts here are among the island’s best, with local poached eggs, Molokai sweet potatoes, and creative bento boxes packed with fried rice and pickled vegetables. The $47 buffet grants you access to the kitchen’s novel chilled countertops, which are stocked with every delicacy and fresh juice you could imagine.
At the Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.maui.andaz.hyatt.com. 808/573-1234. $47 breakfast buffet, main courses $19–$29, $17–$56 dinner. Daily 6:30–11am and 5:30–9pm.
Kō GOURMET PLANTATION CUISINE Kō is Hawaiian for sugarcane, and this restaurant revives the melting pot of Maui’s bygone plantation days. Chef Tylun Pang takes the ethnic foods of the islands’ Japanese, Filipino, Chinese, Portuguese, and Korean immigrants and presents them in gourmet fashion. The “ahi on the rock” appetizer is my favorite: large squares of seasoned ruby-red tuna delivered with a hot ishiyaki stone. Sear the ahi on the rock to your desired temperature, and then submerge it in an orange-ginger miso sauce. The paella, fat chunks of lobster, shrimp, scallops, and chorizo simmered in a rich saffron broth, is also fantastic. If dishes sound unfamiliar, let your waiter guide you. On Sunday, a special Hawaiian laulau is served: Fresh fish, shellfish, and bok choy are wrapped in tī leaves and steamed. Served with jasmine rice, it’s a marvelous re-creation of a traditional island meal. Monthly winemakers’ dinners here are special treats; check the website for dates. At lunchtime, you can order small portions of many of the dinner entrees, as well as ahi sandwiches and paniolo burgers.
At the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.korestaurant.com. 808/875-2210. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$28 lunch, $28–$62 dinner. Lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner 5–9pm.
Longhi’s ITALIAN After a tough day sunbathing or shopping, head to the bar at Longhi’s for an elegant pau hana (finish work) martini. The breezy restaurant with its trademark black-and-white-checkered floor is a great backdrop for breakfast, too. Luxurious lobster eggs Benedict is certainly worth waking up for, served on thick slices of grilled Italian bread. If an omelet is more your style, you can get that with lobster too, along with spinach and fresh mozzarella. At lunch and dinner, standard Italian fare is served: eggplant Parmesan, pasta Bolognese, and fresh fish. The restaurant’s most coveted item isn’t even on the menu: the cheesy jalapeño pizza bread. It’s served free with dinner, but you should ask for a few slices, even at breakfast.
At the Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.longhis.com. 808/891-8883. Breakfast items $10–$21; lunch items $11–$38; dinner main courses $29–$120. Mon–Fri 8am–10pm; Sat–Sun 7:30am–10pm.
Morimoto Maui JAPANESE/PERUVIAN Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s poolside restaurant is sedate and spare, directing all of the attention to the culinary fireworks. The immaculate kitchen houses a space-age freezer full of fish bought at auction, and a rice polisher that ensures that every grain is perfect. The tasting menu starts with Morimoto-san’s signature appetizer, the toro tartare. Balanced on ice, it’s edible artwork. A tilted rectangle offers up a delectable smear of minced Kindai bluefin tuna, accented by colorful stripes of condiments: black nori paste, wasabi, crème fraîche, Maui onion, and tiny yellow rice crackers. A chilled Japanese mountain peach serves as a palate cleanser. The chef’s tribute to Maui features locally caught opakapaka (pink snapper) in Thai curry with pohole fern, plump mussels, and sushi rice, topped with grilled bananas that balance the curry’s heat. Everything is indulgent here: A chawanmushi (Japanese custard) is flavored with foie gras and topped with slivered duck breast; spicy Spanish octopus comes in Morimoto’s angry sauce; and an amazing crispy, salty, fatty seared pork is amplified by sweet poha berry and applesauce. For dessert, the resourceful pastry chef uses leftover rice shavings to create an earthy panna cotta paired with miso butterscotch ice cream and crowned with a wee wasabi sprout. The decadent lunch features flatbreads, sushi, Asian-inspired sandwiches, and many of the items served at dinner.
At the Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.maui.andaz.hyatt.com. 808/573-1234. Main courses $18–$39 lunch, $36–$150 dinner. Daily 11:30am–9pm.
Spago ASIAN FUSION/NEW AMERICAN At Wolfgang Puck’s gorgeous restaurant tucked into the posh lobby of the Four Seasons, dishes are flavorful but light—not burdened by heavy sauces. If the chef tried to remove the ahi sesame-miso cones from the menu, fans would probably riot. This appetizer is perfection: bright red spicy ahi spooned into a crunchy, sweet, and nutty cone and topped with flying fish roe. The Thai coconut soup with kaffir lime and Keahole lobster is a gourmet version of the traditional staple—and it excels on every level. The Chinois lamb chops are worth the steep price tag. During truffle season, fragrant shavings of black or white truffles can be added to your dish. Seating hangs over the elegant pool with Pacific views, and the bartenders pour handcrafted libations with clever names: Pavlov’s Dog, Tainted Love, and Rolling Fog Over Mount Fuji.
At the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. www.fourseasons.com/maui. 808/879-2999. Reservations required. Main courses $39–$135. Daily 5:30–9:30pm. Bar with appetizers daily 6–11pm.
Moderate
Fabiani’s ITALIAN At the top of Wailea, this little bistro serves the most affordable breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the neighborhood. Come here early in your stay because you’ll want to return. The Italian-born chef turns out tasty pastas and pizzas for literally half the price of spots down the road. Sate your hunger with Chef Lorenzo’s meat lasagna—a rich medley of sausage, ground beef, pork, marinara, and béchamel. Make your own thin-crust Italian-style pizza with an array of gourmet toppings—a selection you won’t find elsewhere on island—including mascarpone, Kalamata olives, shrimp, and pancetta. The bakery offers tempting French macaroons: pistachio and caramel sea salt, among others. A second location in Kihei (95 E. Lipoa St., #101; 808/874-0888) offers half-off pizza during happy hours, 3 to 5pm daily.
In the Wailea Gateway Plaza, 34 Wailea Gateway Place, #A101, Wailea. www.fabianis.com. 808/874-1234. Main courses $12–$29. Daily 8am–9pm.
Gannon’s HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE/AMERICAN Set up above the Makena and Wailea coastline, this clubhouse on the Wailea Gold golf course has spectacular views in every direction. Award-winning chef Bev Gannon—the culinary force behind Haliimaile General Store (p. 410)—has brought her gourmet-style comfort food to Wailea. For lunch, linger over the Haiku caprese with pistachio pesto or the fish tacos with taro flour tortillas and mole sauce. At night, when the view isn’t a lure, it’s fun to sit at the sparkly Red Bar. Dig into ginger hoisin barbecue ribs or an ahi tempura roll. The raw bar features flash-cured ahi with honey yuzu vinaigrette and oysters with sambal. Handcrafted cocktails include the refreshing Wailea Spritz (Aperol and Prosecco with a dash of passion fruit puree) or the Road to Hana (Maui vodka with orchid guava liqueur and ginger syrup).
At the Wailea Gold Golf Course, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea. www.gannonsrestaurant.com. 808/875-8080. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $14–$40 lunch, $26–$68 dinner. Daily 11am–9pm.
Monkeypod Kitchen AMERICAN/LOCAL CUISINE Celebrated chef Peter Merriman’s latest venture spotlights local, organic produce, pasture-raised beef, and sustainably caught fish—all of which contribute to better tasting food. Pull up a seat at the lively bar here and enjoy saimin (soup with locally made noodles), bulgogi pork tacos, or Waipoli greens with beet and chevre. The expansive drink menu is among the island’s best—offering everything from fresh coconut water, kombucha, and “shrubs” (soda or juice with fresh muddled herbs) to award-winning handcrafted cocktails. The dessert menu is less inspired; the cream pies are only so-so. A second location at the Whalers Village shopping mall in Kaanapali serves the same fare.
In the Wailea Gateway Plaza, 10 Wailea Gateway Place, #B201, Wailea. 808/891-2322. Also in Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali. 808/878-6763. www.monkeypodkitchen.com. Main courses $17–$41. Daily 10:30am–11pm.
Note: You’ll find the restaurants in this section on the “Upcountry & East Maui” map (p. 381).
Haliimaile (on the Way to Upcountry Maui)
Moderate
Haliimaile General Store HAWAII REGIONAL/AMERICAN Three decades ago Bev Gannon, one of the pioneering chefs of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, brought her gourmet comfort food to this renovated plantation store in rural Haliimaile. It was a gamble then; now it’s one of the island’s most beloved restaurants. Menu items reflect island cuisine with hints of Texas, from which Gannon hails. The Asian duck tostada, for example, pairs shredded duck with ginger chili dressing, jicama, and toasted macadamia nuts in a crispy lumpia shell. The warm goat cheese tart comes with slivered poached pears, fennel, and pine nuts. Sauces can be rich, so it’s best to stick to one or two items rather than ordering a bunch to share. That rule does not apply to the sashimi Napoleon, however. The creamy wasabi vinaigrette that the waiter pours atop your stack of ahi tartare, smoked salmon, and wonton chips is rich, but worth the indulgence. Sound ricochets in this vintage camp store, with its polished wooden floors, high ceilings, and open kitchen. It’s quieter in the back room, which is worth exploring anyway for its rotating exhibit of paintings by top local artists. Vegetarians: Ask for the extensive veggie menu.
900 Haliimaile Rd., Haliimaile. www.hgsmaui.com. 808/572-2666. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$26 lunch, $20–$46 dinner. Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; daily 5–9pm.
Makawao & Pukalani
Moderate
Market Fresh Bistro HAWAIIAN/MEDITERRANEAN At this off-the-beaten-path bistro, Chef Justin Pardo steadfastly adheres to the locavore ethic: Nearly everything he serves is grown within a few miles of the kitchen. Because of this, the menu changes daily. Salads are exceptional here, with slivered rainbow radishes, heirloom carrots, and greens picked literally that morning. Past entrees have included Kupaa Farm taro-crusted fish with asparagus in fennel-saffron tomato jus, and lamb ragout atop 2-inch-wide pasta ribbons. Breakfasts in the shaded courtyard will transport you to the French countryside: Thick slices of wheat toast slathered in house-made lilikoi (passionfruit) jam accompany omelets stuffed with goat cheese, mushrooms, and pesto. The high-quality ingredients are fresh off the farm, and you can taste it. On Thursday night, the team serves prix-fixe farm dinners, seven courses for $75 (more with wine pairing).
3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. www.marketfreshbistro.com. 808/572-4877. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast $10–$13; lunch $10–$15; dinner $28–$34. Tues–Sat 9–11am and 11:30am–3pm; Sun 9am–2pm; Thurs prix-fixe 6–8:30pm.
Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli ITALIAN On the corner of Baldwin and Makawao avenues, this upcountry institution serves wonderful Italian fare at a sit-down restaurant and an attached cozy deli. The deli serves simple breakfasts (omelets with fresh mozzarella, and buttermilk muffins and bagels loaded with lox and capers) and terrific sandwiches for lunch. Try the New York meatball on a baguette, or the goat cheese and eggplant on focaccia. The deli’s outdoor barstool seating makes a great perch for observing the Makawao traffic—always entertaining. The restaurant proper opens for lunch and serves a range of pastas and pizzas baked in a brick oven, and tables are set with white linens. At dinner, snack on freshly baked focaccia with olive oil and balsamic vinegar while waiting for your entree; the truffle ravioli with sage sauce is a favorite of mine. Pizza is served until at least 10pm, and on many nights of the week the dance floor erupts to the sounds of live salsa or reggae music or visiting DJs—dinner earns you free admission. Check the website for the entertainment calendar.
1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao. www.casanovamaui.com. 808/572-0220. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch items $9–$18; dinner main courses $14–$44. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2pm; daily 5:30–9pm. Dancing Wed and Fri–Sat 10pm–1:30am. Deli Mon–Sat 7:30am–5:30pm; Sun 8:30am–5:30pm.
T. Komoda Store and Bakery BAKERY The coveted cream puffs (filled with vanilla or mocha cream) are just one of the temptations at this 100+-year-old family bakery. Stick donuts encrusted with macadamia nuts, Chantilly cakes, fruit pies, and butter rolls keep loyal customers coming back. Old-timers know to arrive before noon or miss out. Bring cash and note the odd business hours.
3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao. 808/572-7261. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 7am–5pm; Sat 7am–2pm.
Kula
Moderate
Kula Lodge HAWAII REGIONAL/AMERICAN The lodge’s restaurant is best at breakfast, when the prices are lower and the views through the picture windows have an eye-popping intensity. The million-dollar vista spans the flanks of Haleakala, all of Central Maui, the emerald-green West Maui Mountains, and the Pacific Ocean on two coasts. The kitchen turns out decent eggs Benedicts, including one topped with fresh fish and a veggie version crowned with spinach, tomatoes, and feta cheese. The buttermilk pancakes with macadamia nuts are tasty, but avoid the bland loco moco (hamburger, rice, and a fried egg slathered in listless brown gravy). For dinner, your best bet is pizza baked in the brick oven outdoors (if it’s fired up). Try the upcountry vegetable pie with San Marzano tomato sauce, smoked mozzarella, and herb-roasted veggies.
15200 Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 377), Kula. www.kulalodge.com. 808/878-2517. Main courses $12–$27 breakfast, $11–$28 lunch, $14–$42 dinner. Daily 7am–9pm.
Grandma’s Coffee House COFFEEHOUSE/AMERICAN Alfred Franco’s grandmother started growing and roasting coffee in remote and charming Keokea back in 1918. Five generations later, this family-run cafe is still fueled by homegrown Haleakala beans and frequented by local paniolo (cowboys). Line up at the busy counter for espresso, home-baked pastries, hot oatmeal, scrambled eggs, or, on Sundays, eggs Benedict served on a cornmeal waffle. Rotating lunch specials include spinach lasagna, teriyaki chicken, and beef stew. Sit out on the scenic lanai where the air is always the perfect temperature and listen to a Hawaiian guitarist serenade his bygone sweethearts. Pick up a few lemon squares and a slice of pumpkin bread to go.
At the end of Hwy. 37, Keokea (about 6 miles before the Tedeschi Vineyards in Ulupalakua). www.grandmascoffee.com. 808/878-2140. Most items under $10. Daily 7am–5pm.
La Provence BAKERY/FRENCH/PIZZA Hidden away up in Kula is a family-owned French bakery that’s worth driving across the island for. It’s also worth overlooking the service, which can be slow, inconsistent, and even surly. Every item stashed in the bakery case is exquisite. Arrive well before noon or risk watching the last almond croissants and mango blueberry scones walk out the door without you. Dine in the garden courtyard beside cyclists who’ve worked up appetites circumnavigating the island. The crepes, filled with Kula vegetables and goat cheese or salmon and spinach, have a secret addictive ingredient: béchamel sauce. On Sunday, eggs Benedict is served with perfect roasted potatoes and wild greens drizzled in a transcendent lilikoi balsamic dressing. For lunch, try the marvelous duck confit salad or roast chicken sandwich with melted Brie cheese. They’re still ironing out the kinks of dinner service in their space next door—but the filet mignon in puff pastry and lamb chops with peppercorn sauce are worth the gamble. Bring cash; there isn’t an ATM for miles and they don’t take credit cards.
3158 Lower Kula Hwy., Kula. www.laprovencekula.com. 808/878-1313. Breakfast $12–$13; lunch $12–$17; dinner $26–$32. Cash or check only. Wed–Sun 7am–2pm. Dinner 6–9pm second and fourth Fri of the month.
East Maui
Note: You’ll find the restaurants in this section on the “Upcountry & East Maui” map (p. 381).
Paia
Moderate
Charley’s Restaurant AMERICAN Named for Charley P. Woofer, a spotted Great Dane, this North Shore institution serves food and music to the masses. The downtown Paia hangout does double duty as a power-breakfast fuel station for windsurfers and an after-dark saloon with live music and DJs. It’s a decent place to grab a bite before heading out to Hana. For breakfast, you’ll find standards: omelets, pancakes, biscuits and gravy. Lunch is half-pound burgers (made from locally raised beef), fish and chicken sandwiches, salads, and pizza. Dinner is grilled fish and steak—hearty, but nothing exciting. The addition of a sushi bar (open 5–10pm Tues–Sat) is drawing fans.
142 Hana Hwy., Paia. www.charleysmaui.com. 808/579-8085. Breakfast items $10–$16; lunch items $11–$12; dinner main courses $11–$22. Daily 7am–10pm; food served at the bar until 10pm.
Flatbread & Company PIZZA This family-friendly Paia outpost embraces a locavore philosophy. The hand-colored menus highlight the best Maui farmers have to offer, particularly where the inventive daily carne and veggie specials are concerned. You can watch the chefs hand-toss organic dough, dress it with high-quality toppings—local goat cheese, macadamia-nut pesto, slow-roasted kalua pork, or homemade, nitrate-free sausage—and shovel it into the wood-burning furnace that serves as the restaurant’s magical hearth. Salads come sprinkled with grated green papaya and dressing so delicious that everyone clamors for the recipe. Tuesdays are charity night: $3.50 of each flatbread sold benefits a local cause.
71 Baldwin Ave., Paia. www.flatbreadcompany.com. 808/579-9999. Reservations recommended. Entrees $15–$28. Daily 11am–10pm.
Milagros Food Company SOUTHWESTERN/SEAFOOD You’ll have a prime view of the Paia action from the lanai of this corner restaurant. The kitchen turns out Tex-Mex dishes with Maui flair, such as blackened mahimahi tacos with salsa, cheese, fresh guacamole, and sweet chili sauce (sounds strange perhaps, but tastes great). You can also order Anaheim chili enchiladas, fajitas with sautéed vegetables finished in achiote glaze, a variety of burgers, and giant salads. The bar pours an assortment of fine tequilas, offering several flights so that you can compare flavors and no fewer than 10 different margaritas. Don Julio Reposado in a classic margarita on the rocks, please! The restaurant is sometimes open for breakfast; call ahead.
3 Baldwin Ave., Paia. www.milagrosfoodcompany.com. 808/579-8755. Main courses $12–$29. Daily 8am–10pm.
Inexpensive
Cafe des Amis CREPES/MEDITERRANEAN/INDIAN This sweet, eclectic restaurant serves crepes, curries, and Mediterranean platters that are fresh, tasty, and easy on the wallet. Crepes come with organic local greens and a dollop of sour cream. The breakfast crepe with Gruyère and ham is perfect any time of day, as is the Italian lentil crepe with pesto and mozzarella. The curries aren’t exactly Indian, but they are delicious. Wraps come with cucumber raita; bowls with mango, tomato, and extra-hot habañero chutney on the side. The coconut shrimp curry is a fragrant blend of ginger, garlic, cinnamon, cilantro, and Bengal spices; the slow-cooked organic chicken curry has a creamy, tomato-y base. For dessert, sweet crepes are stuffed with melted Nutella or bananas and chocolate. Excellent espresso is found here, along with some stiff lilikoi margaritas. Musicians often play beneath the twinkling lights in the courtyard seating area.
42 Baldwin Ave., Paia. www.cdamaui.com. 808/579-6323. All-day menu items: crepes $9–$12; main courses $12–$28. Daily 8:30am–8:30pm.
Consider the following shops, markets, and stands to offset some of your culinary splurges—or to stock up on tasty souvenirs to bring back home:
Immediately outside of Kahului Airport, the monolith of Costco, 540 Haleakala Hwy. (www.costco.com; 808/877-52451), offers members numerous local items—including macadamia nuts, Kona coffee, and Maui pineapple. (The discount gas makes this a worthy stop at the end of your vacation.)
You can stock up on quality snacks (at steep prices) for your hotel room at Whole Foods, in the Maui Mall, 70 E. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului (www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/maui; 808/872-3310). The meat selection is superior and they have Bubbies mochi ice cream (multiple flavors) in bulk. Around the corner, Down to Earth, 305 Dairy Rd., Kahului (www.downtoearth.org; 808/877-2661) dishes out vegetarian deli items and an assortment of natural foods.
True gourmands should prioritize a trip to Mana Foods , 49 Baldwin Ave., Paia (www.manafoodsmaui.com; 808/579-8078). The state’s best health-food store hides behind an unimposing dark-green facade in the center of the north shore town. Shopping here is an adventure, to be sure—parking can be a nuisance, and the narrow aisles inside are crammed with nuevo hippies and wild-haired children. Don’t let this dissuade you. The compact store has a better natural-foods selection than you’ll find in most big cities—at great prices, too. The deli turns out fresh-made sushi, soups, salads, hot entrees, and raw desserts. The produce shelves are worthy of worship, with ripe avocados, local asparagus, and more tropical fruits than you have names for. Ask to sample rambutan or rolinia and hit up the health and beauty room for locally made soaps and hard-to-find essential oils.
On Saturday, visit the Maui Swap Meet (see p. 419) or the Upcountry Farmers Market . The market fills the Kulamalu Town Center parking lot in Pukalani (near Longs Drugs). You’ll find local honey, fresh-shucked coconuts, pickled veggies, and heaps of bright, Maui-grown produce, plus ready-to-eat foods, flower bouquets, and gorgeous hand-carved cutting boards.
On the road to Hana, you’ll pass many tempting fruit stands. The best of the bunch is Hana Farms , 2190 Hana Hwy. (www.hanafarmsonline.com; 808/248-7553), a series of thatched huts just outside of Hana town that overflow with every variety of tropical fruit, Maui-grown coffee, and fresh-squeezed juices and ginger sodas that are just the ticket if the drive has made you queasy. Stock up on coconut candy, hot sauce, lilikoi jam, and banana butter to slather on top of your choice of six banana breads. Everything is grown nearby.
Elsewhere on the island, coffee lovers can get their fix at the MauiGrown Coffee Company Store, 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina (www.mauigrowncoffee.com; 808/661-2728), which opens at 6:30am every day but Sunday. The Maui Mokka variety sold here is among the world’s oldest and rarest coffees; the rich, chocolatey beans regularly win awards. Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hana Hwy., Kahului (www.mauicoffeeroasters.com; 808/877-2877) is another dependable caffeine source, with a huge assortment of Hawaiian grown coffees, conveniently located near the airport.
For a taste of plantation-era cuisine, head to Takamiya Market, 359 N. Market St., Wailuku (www.takamiyamarket.com; 808/244-3404). Unpretentious home-cooked dishes include shoyu chicken, fried squid, kalua pork, Chinese noodles, pohole (fiddlehead) ferns, and Western comfort foods such as cornbread and potato salad. The chilled-fish counter has fresh sashimi, poke, and limu (seaweed).
Paia Bay Coffee CAFE Tucked behind the San Lorenzo swimsuit shop, this garden coffee shop is Paia’s best-kept secret. Pop in for an expertly brewed espresso and a fresh-baked croissant or slice of banana bread and you’ll see locals networking in shady corners over cappuccinos. The menu is a bit more sophisticated than that of your typical cafe. In addition to the standard bagel and lox, the kitchen turns out organic scrambled eggs and sandwiches garnished with brie, sliced green apple, microgreens, tomato, and black-pepper herb mayo. The vegan bagel is delicious—topped with roasted red peppers, local avocado, tomato, and pesto. The baristas are genuinely friendly and make everything with care here.
115 Hana Hwy., Paia. www.paiabaycoffee.com. 808/579-9125. All items under $11. Daily 7am–5:30pm.
Paia Fish Market SEAFOOD At the corner of Baldwin Avenue and Hana Highway in Paia, this busy fish market must maintain its own fleet of fishing boats. How else to explain how the cooks can dish out filet after giant fresh filet for little more than it would cost to buy the same at the grocery? There’s only one thing to order here: a fish sandwich. A giant slab of perfectly grilled ahi, opah, or opakapaka laid out on a bun with coleslaw and grated cheese is extra satisfying after a briny day at the beach. Also in Lahaina at 632 Front St. 808/662-3456 and in Kihei at 1913 S. Kihei Rd. 808/874-8888.
110 Hana Hwy., Paia. www.paiafishmarket.com. 808/579-3111. Lunch and dinner plates $10–$22. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
Haiku
Moderate
Colleen’s at the Cannery ECLECTIC This go-to spot for Haiku residents serves an excellent breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a casual yet classy setting. Slide into a booth beside world-famous surfers, yoga teachers, and inspirational speakers: Maui’s local celebrities. Wake up with an omelet stuffed with portobello mushroom and goat cheese, accompanied by organic chai or a spicy Bloody Mary, depending on your mood. For lunch, the roasted eggplant sandwich is served warm, with sun-dried tomatoes, carrots, and melted Muenster cheese. Hearty burgers are made from Maui Cattle Company beef, and pizzas are loaded with creative toppings. For dinner, the local fish specials are spot-on, rivaling some of the island’s pricier restaurants—but service can be frustratingly inattentive here. The dessert case contains some treasures, including extra-rich espresso brownies and sweetly tart lilikoi (passion fruit) bars.
At the Haiku Cannery Marketplace, 810 Haiku Rd., Haiku. www.colleensinhaiku.com. 808/575-9211. Reservations not accepted. Breakfast and lunch $8–$15; dinner main courses $9–$30. Daily 6am–9:30pm.
Nuka SUSHI Sushi chef Hiro Takanashi smiles from behind the bar as he turns out beautiful specialty rolls loaded with sprouts, pea shoots, avocado, and glistening red tuna. The garden-fresh ingredients served at this compact sushi restaurant reflect its rural Haiku address, but its stylish decor suggests somewhere more cosmopolitan. Start with a side of house pickles or kinpira gobo—a salty, sweet, and sour mix of slivered burdock root. Then proceed to the sushi menu for excellent nigiri, sashimi, and rolls. Not up for sushi? The wonderful Nuka bowls—your choice of protein piled atop fresh herbs, crushed peanuts, sesame lime dressing, rice, and veggies—are deeply nourishing. For dessert, try the house-made black sesame ice cream. Tip: Nuka doesn’t take reservations and is often packed; plan to eat early (before 6pm) or late (after 7:30pm) to avoid crowds.
780 Haiku Rd., Haiku. www.nukamaui.com. 808/575-2939. Reservations not accepted. Dinner $8–$38. Daily 4:30–10pm.
On the Road to Hana
Expensive
Mama’s Fish House SEAFOOD Overlooking idyllic Kuau Cove on Maui’s North Shore, this island institution is the realization of a South Pacific fantasy. Though pricey, a meal at Mama’s is a complete experience. Recapture the grace of early Hawaii when feasts lasted for days beneath the swaying palms. Wander through the landscaped grounds down to the restaurant, where smiling servers wear Polynesian prints and flowers behind their ears. The dining room features curved lauhala-lined ceilings, lavish arrangements of tropical flowers, and windows open wide to let the ocean breeze in. Start your repast with the coconut ceviche or the marvelous beef Polynesian—a garlicky mix of seared-steak morsels, tomatoes, and onion served in a papaya half. The menu lists the names of the anglers who reeled in the day’s catch; you can order ono “caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana” or deepwater ahi seared with coconut and lime. As a finale, the Tahitian Pearl dessert is almost too stunning to eat: a shiny chocolate ganache sphere filled with lilikoi crème, set in an edible pastry clamshell. Everything is perfect, from the refreshing, umbrella-topped cocktails to the almond-scented hand towels passed out before dessert. As a parting shot, squares of creamy coconut haupia are delivered with your bill.
799 Poho Place, just off the Hana Hwy., Kuau. www.mamasfishhouse.com. 808/579-8488. Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner. Main courses: $26–$48 lunch; $28–$62 dinner. Daily 11am–3pm and 4:15–9pm (last seating).
Inexpensive
Kuau Store DELI Decorated with vintage maps of Maui, this is one of my favorite spots on the North Shore for breakfast or lunch to go. The handsome convenience store and deli offers gourmet breakfast paninis, smoothies with all kinds of extras, fresh juices, kombucha on tap, shoyu chicken plate lunches, and pulled pork sandwiches. Inside the deli case you’ll find quinoa salads and four types of poke. The espresso counter is built out of repurposed wood from the mart that was here before. The logo hats behind the register make great souvenirs. For an easy entrance and exit, park on the side street under the bright mural featuring surfers, sharks, and owls.
701 Hana Hwy., Paia. www.kuaustore.com. 808/579-8844. Deli items $5–$12. Daily 6:30am–7pm.
Hana
Expensive
The Preserve Kitchen + Bar AMERICAN/PACIFIC RIM Hana’s only fine-dining restaurant has always struggled to assert itself, and meals here are hit and miss for the price. Still, breakfasts on the lanai are luxurious—where else you can sip locally grown coffee while watching the iwa (frigate birds) circle Kauiki Hill? All day long the menu showcases Hana-grown ingredients: The baby beet salad is a lavish affair with crunchy green beans and creamy goat cheese, and blanched pohole ferns decorate the ahi and Kona kampachi sashimi. For dinner, the togarashi seared scallops and the chimichurri Hamakua mushrooms are irresistible. Specials change nightly.
At Travaasa Hana, 5031 Hana Hwy., Hana. www.travaasa.com/hana. 808/248-8211. Main courses: $12–$28 breakfast; $17–$32 lunch; $30–$50 dinner. Daily 7:30am–9pm.
Moderate
Hana Ranch Restaurant AMERICAN Dining options are slim in Hana after 3pm, so you might find yourself hungry with nowhere else to eat. The ranch restaurant serves diner fare for slightly more than you’d pay elsewhere on Maui; adjust your expectations accordingly and you’ll be satisfied. The service is friendly (if slow) and the portions are large. The seared ahi and coconut shrimp are better bets than the pasta.
2 Mill St. (off Hana Hwy.), Hana. 808/270-5280. Lunch items $6–$17; dinner main courses $15–$35. Daily 11am–8:30pm.
Barefoot Café SNACK SHOP/CAFE Place your order for simple homespun fare at the window and eat at picnic tables facing picturesque Hana Bay. This cash-only cafe is the spot for an unpretentious East Maui breakfast: Choose from Benedicts, fried rice, eggs, and fresh baked goods. Although lunch and dinner (kalbi beef, saimin) are less inspired, this is still an affordable alternative to the neighboring resort restaurants.
1632 Keawa Pl., Hana. 808/446-5732. Breakfast items $5–$10; lunch and dinner items $6–$16. Cash only. Daily 7–10am and 11am–8pm.
Hulihuli Chicken at Koki PLATE LUNCH/BBQ This roadside shack just past Koki Beach might be the best place to eat in Hana—but it’s not really a restaurant and we can’t vouch that it will be open when you arrive. Hulihuli chicken is a mouthwatering Hawaiian version of barbecue. “Huli” means “turn” as in, turn over the flame. Place your order for chicken, pork, ribs, or (my favorite) the enchilada special. Then park yourself at the picnic table facing scenic little Alau Island and count your blessings.
Just past Koki Beach Park on Haneoo Rd., Hana. Lunch courses under $18. Daily 10am–6pm.
Maui’s best shopping is found in the small, independent boutiques and galleries scattered around the island—particularly in Makawao and Paia. (If you’re in the market for a bikini, there’s no better spot than the intersection of Baldwin Ave. and Hana Hwy. on Maui’s North Shore.) The two upscale resort shopping malls, the Shops at Wailea in South Maui and Whalers Village in Kaanapali, have everything from Louis Vuitton to Gap—plus a handful of local designers. If you’re looking for that perfect souvenir, consider visiting one of Maui’s farms (or farmer’s markets), most of which offer fantastic value-added products. Take home Kaanapali coffee, Kula lavender spice rub, Ocean Vodka, Maui Gold pineapple, and other tasty treats that can be shipped worldwide.
Central Maui
Kahului
Kahului’s shopping is concentrated in two malls. The Maui Mall, 70 E. Kaahumanu Ave. (www.mauimall.com; 808/877-8952), is home to Whole Foods, Longs Drugs, T.J. Maxx, and Tasaka Guri Guri (the decades-old purveyor of inimitable icy treats that are neither ice cream nor shave ice, but something in between), plus Kahului’s largest movie theater, a 12-screen megaplex that features mainly current releases. Queen Kaahumanu Center, 275 Kaahumanu Ave. (www.queenkaahumanucenter.com; 808/877-3369), a 7-minute drive from the Kahului Airport, offers two levels of shops, restaurants, and theaters. It covers the bases, from arts and crafts to Macy’s and everything in between: a thriving food court and mall standards like Victoria’s Secret, Sunglass Hut, and Local Motion (surf and beach wear). The Maui Friends of the Library (www.mfol.org; 808/877-2509) runs a new and used bookstore that is an excellent source for Hawaii reading material. Like Tasaka Guri Guri, Camellia Seed Shop ( 808/877-5714) is a throwback to plantation days when locals enjoyed strange sweet-and-sour treats made from pickled plum seeds. Give them a try!
Maui Swap Meet For just 50¢, you’re granted admission to a colorful maze of booths and tables occupying the Maui Community College’s parking lot every Saturday from 7am to 1pm. Vendors come from across the island to lay out their treasures: fresh fruits and vegetables from Kula and Keanae, orchids, jewelry, ceramics, clothing, household items, homemade jams, and baked goods. It’s fun to stroll around and “talk story” with the farmers, artists, and crafters. At Maui Community College in an area bounded by Kahului Beach Rd. and Wahine Pio Ave. (access via Wahine Pio Ave.). 808/244-3100.
Wailuku
Wailuku’s vintage architecture, antiques shops, and mom-and-pop eateries imbue the town with charm. You won’t find any plastic aloha in Wailuku; in fact, this is the best place to buy authentic souvenirs.
Bailey House Museum Shop The small gift shop at the entrance of this wonderful museum offers a trove of authoritative Hawaiiana, from hand-sewn feather hatbands to traditional Hawaiian games, music, and limited-edition books. Make sure to stroll through the gracious gardens and view Edward Bailey’s paintings of early Maui. At the very least, take time to appreciate the massive koa outrigger canoe displayed outside. Bailey House Museum, 2375-A Main St. www.mauimuseum.org. 808/244-3326.
Bird of Paradise Unique Antiques Come here for old Matson liner menus, vintage aloha shirts, silk kimonos, and anything nostalgic that happens to be Hawaiian. Owner Joe Myhand collects everything from 1940s rattan furniture to Depression-era glass and lilting Hawaiian music on vinyl or cassette. 56 N. Market St. 808/242-7699.
Native Intelligence This wonderful shop feels like a museum or gallery—only you can take the marvelous artifacts home with you. From the rich monkeypod wood floors to the collection of finely woven lauhala hats, shopping here is a feast for the senses. The store’s owners are committed to supporting indigenous Hawaiian artisans, who come here both to shop and stock the shelves with artwork of the highest craftsmanship. Browse the truly Hawaiian keepsakes and gifts: locally designed Kealopiko clothing silkscreened with Hawaiian proverbs, kukui nut spinning tops, soaps scented with native herbs, and lei o manu—fierce war clubs fringed with shark teeth. You can also buy bags of fresh poi and the island’s most precious leis, made of feathers, shells, or fragrant flowers. 1980 Market St., #2. www.native-intel.com. 808/242-2421.
West Maui
Lahaina
Lahaina’s merchants and art galleries go all out from 7 to 10pm every Friday, when Art Night brings an extra measure of hospitality and community spirit. The Art Night openings are usually marked with live entertainment and refreshments, plus a livelier-than-usual street scene. A free walking map of participating galleries is available at the Lahaina Visitor Center in the Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St. #101, Lahaina (www.visitlahaina.com; 808/667-9175).
Across from the seawall on Front Street, you’ll find the Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St. (www.theoutletsofmaui.com; 808/667-9216). There’s plenty of free validated parking and easy access to more than two dozen outlet shops, including Calvin Klein, Coach, Banana Republic, Adidas, Kay Jewelers, and more.
At the northern end of Lahaina town, what was formerly a big, belching pineapple cannery is now a maze of shops and restaurants known as the Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy. (www.lahainacannerymall.com; 808/661-5304). Inside the air-conditioned building there’s a Longs Drugs and a 24-hour Safeway for groceries.
Honolua Surf Gear up for a day on the water at this local franchise named for one of Maui’s best surf breaks. You’ll find cute beach cover-ups, rash guards, bikinis and surf trunks, sweatshirts, sandals, hats and even duffle bags to carry it all. www.honoluasurf.com. Lahaina: 845 Front St. 808/661-18848. Kaanapali: At the Whalers Village, 2345 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali. 808/661-1778. Kihei: 2411 S. Kihei Rd. 808/874-0999. Paia: 115 Hana Hwy. 808/579-9593.
Lahaina Arts Society Galleries Since 1967, the Lahaina Arts Society has been promoting the excellent work of local artists. The society’s two galleries inhabit the Old Lahaina Courthouse, the historic building that sits between Lahaina harbor and the giant banyan tree in the center of town. In addition to hosting changing monthly exhibits, the galleries are jam-packed with paintings, photography, ceramics, jewelry, and more. The artists host “Art in the Park” fairs several times each month in the shade of the sprawling banyan tree (check the website for dates). 648 Wharf St. www.lahaina-arts.com. 808/661-0111.
Lahaina Galleries Sea creatures sculpted from bronze and wood greet you at the entrance of this Front Street haven for art. Whether you fancy Robert Bissell’s whimsical portraits of elephants swarmed by monarch butterflies, Guy Buffet’s Parisian cafe scenes, or Dario Campanile’s provocative still lifes, this gallery has an artist and aesthetic for you. The knowledgeable staff is helpful and not prone to the high-pressured sales pitches of some nearby galleries. Also at the Shops at Wailea (3750 Wailea Alanui; 808/874-8583). 828 Front St. www.lahainagalleries.com. 808/661-6284.
Mahina Fashionable young ladies will beeline to Mahina for wardrobe staples: feminine mini and maxi dresses, strappy shoes, clutches with pineapple prints, and gold bangles decorated with puka shells. Reasonable prices make it easy to rock tropical glamour at the beach or bar. www.shopmahina.com. Lahaina: 335 Keawe St. 808/661-0383. Kaanapali: Kihei: 1913 S. Kihei Rd. 808/879-3453. Wailea: Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. 808/868-4717. Paia: 23 Baldwin. 808/579-9131.
Maui Hands This artists’ collective has several consignment shops/galleries around the island, each teeming with handcrafted treasures by local artisans. You’ll find Niihau shell necklaces, vivid paintings of local beaches and tropical flowers, carved koa bowls and rocking chairs, screen-printed textiles, and one-of-a-kind souvenirs for every budget. The artists are on hand and happy to discuss their work. www.mauihands.com. Lahain: 612 Front St. 808/677-9898. Paia: 84 Hana Hwy. 808/579-9245. Makawao: 1169 Makawao. 808/572-2008. Kaanapali: In the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali. 808/667-7997.
Kaanapali
Whalers Village Right on Kaanapali Beach, this landmark mall offers everything from Louis Vuitton and Kate Spade to Tommy Bahama and Sephora, with a few local designers in the mix. Find classy aloha wear at Tory Richard ( 808/667-7762) and matching mother-daughter batik clothing at Blue Ginger ( 808/667-5793). The Sandal Tree ( 808/667-5330) has one of the best summer shoe selections on the island—including fashionable Olukai sandals with arch support. The Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery (www.totallyhawaiian.com; 808/667-4070) carries Niihau shell jewelry, Norfolk pine bowls, and Hawaiian quilt kits. Na Hoku jewelers (www.nahoku.com; 808/667-5411) offers stellar island-inspired sparkles and watches. In contrast to most Maui shops, stores here remain open until 10pm. Sate your hunger at Monkeypod Kitchen or Joey’s Kitchen, hidden in the otherwise unimpressive food court. Parking is unfortunately expensive; be sure to get validation. 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. www.whalersvillage.com. 808/661-4567.
Honokowai, Kahana & Napili
Those driving north of Kaanapali toward Kapalua will notice the Honokowai Marketplace, on Lower Honoapiilani Road, only minutes before the Kapalua Airport. It houses restaurants and coffee shops, a dry cleaner, the flagship Times Supermarket, and a few clothing stores.
Kapalua
Village Galleries This well-regarded gallery showcases the finest regional artists in a small space inside the Ritz-Carlton lobby. View Pegge Hopper’s iconic Hawaiian women, George Allan’s luminous oil landscapes, and Betty Hay Freeland’s colorful local scenes. Three-dimensional pieces include gemstone-quality Niihau shell leis, hand-blown glass sculptures, and delicately turned bowls of Norfolk pine. The Ritz-Carlton’s monthly artist-in-residence program features the gallery’s artists in hands-on workshops (free, including materials). It has two additional locations in Lahaina, one at 120 Dickenson St. ( 808/661-4402) and another in the Baldwin House’s Master Reading Room at the corner of Dickenson and Front St. ( 808/661-5199). At the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr. www.villagegalleriesmaui.com. 808/669-1800.
South Maui
Kihei
Kihei is one long stretch of strip malls. Most of the shopping is concentrated in the Azeka Place Shopping Center on South Kihei Road. Across the street, Azeka Place II houses several prominent attractions, including a cluster of specialty shops with everything from children’s clothes to shoes, sunglasses, and swimwear.
Wailea
Shops at Wailea This elegant high-end mall mainly features luxury brands (Prada, Bottega Veneta, Tiffany & Co., Gucci), but some unique gems are hidden amid the complex’s 50-odd shops. Martin & MacArthur ( 808/891-8844) sells luminous, curly koa bowls and keepsake boxes—or you could bring home a beautiful handmade Hawaiian musical instrument from Mele Ukulele (www.meleukulele.com; 808/879-6353). When Paris Hilton shops for bling on Maui, she heads to Maui Enchantress (www.mauienchantress.com; 808/891-6360), a pinker-than-thou boutique brimming with Swarovski crystal–studded slippers, glitter powder, fringed tank tops, and shell-encrusted silver mirrors. The mall is home to several good restaurants, and the Island Gourmet Markets offer affordable options for breakfast and lunch: everything from pastries to sushi, burgers, sandwiches, and gelato. 3750 Wailea Alanui. www.theshopsatwailea.com. 808/891-6770.
Paia has a half-dozen boutiques dedicated to Maui’s sun-kissed beach uniform, the bikini. And that’s not all; many of the other shops lining Baldwin Avenue and Hana Highway also sell swimwear. Head to this north-shore beach town for everything from Brazilian thongs to full-figured, mix-and-match-your-own suits. The best of the bunch are Maui Girl, 12 Baldwin Ave. (www.maui-girl.com; 808/579-9266; daily 9am–6pm); Le Tarte, 24 Baldwin Ave. (www.letarteswimwear.com; 808/579-6022; daily 10am–6pm); Pakaloha, 120 Hana Hwy. (www.pakalohamaui.com; 808/579-8882; daily 10am–6pm); and San Lorenzo, 115 Hana Hwy. (www.sanlorenzobikinis.com; 808/873-7972; daily 9am–9pm).
Upcountry Maui
Makawao has several gorgeous boutiques and galleries to browse, plus a small grocery. Rodeo General Store, 3661 Baldwin Ave. ( 808/572-1868) offers ready-made items, dry goods, and a fine deli. A superior wine selection is housed in a temperature-controlled cave at the back of the store. Fuel up with stick donuts from one of Maui’s oldest and most beloved mom-and-pop shops, T. Komoda Store & Bakery (see p. 411).
Altitude French shopowner Jeannine deRoode is every bit as stylish and charming as her boutique, which offers an array of classy, contemporary clothing, jewelry, and handbags. This is the place to find wardrobe staples that will last a lifetime. 3620 Baldwin Ave. 808/573-4733.
Driftwood One-stop shopping for a glamorous life: browse the shelves for baby-soft suede boots, booty-bearing bikinis, swoon-worthy photo books, and dangly crystal earrings that will draw second looks as you cross Makawao Avenue, a surprisingly fashionable address. 1152 Makawao Ave. www.driftwoodmaui.com. 808/573-1152.
Hot Island Glassblowing Studio & Gallery Watch glass blowers transform molten glass into artwork in this Makawao Courtyard studio. If you didn’t witness it happening, you might not believe that the kaleidoscopic vases and charismatic marine animals were truly made out of the fragile, fiery-hot medium. Several artists show their work here; prices range from under $20 for pretty plumeria dishes to over $4,000 for sculptural pieces. In the middle range are luminescent jellyfish floating in glass. 3620 Baldwin Ave. www.hotislandglass.com. 808/572-4527.
Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center This marvelous gallery’s gift shop spills into the foyer and sunroom. The Hui is a hub for local art and education and many inspired artists contribute their work to the shop here. Browse the shelves for whimsical jewelry, paintings, wood block prints, children’s toys, and much more. 2841 Baldwin Ave. www.huinoeau.com. 808/572-6560.
The Mercantile Every texture in this boutique is sumptuous, from the cashmere sweaters to the tooled leather belts. In addition to upscale men and women’s clothing, you’ll find Kiehl’s cosmetics, Jurlique organic body products, eye-catching jewelry, and an assortment of French soaps and luxurious linens. 3673 Baldwin Ave. 808/572-1407.
Viewpoints Gallery Tucked into in Makawao Courtyard, this small gallery features the museum-quality work of 40 established Maui artists. The front half is dedicated to revolving solo shows and invitational exhibits—always worth a look. The gallery’s back half features works by collective artists: luminous oils by George Allan, breathtakingly realistic pastels by Kit Gentry, and ceramic tea sets brimming with personality by Christina Cowan. 3620 Baldwin Ave. www.viewpointsgallerymaui.com. 808/572-5979.
Fresh Flowers in Kula
Like anthuriums on the Big Island, proteas are a Maui trademark and an abundant crop on Haleakala’s rich volcanic slopes. They also travel well, dry beautifully, and can be shipped worldwide with ease. Proteas of Hawaii, 15200 Haleakala Hwy., Kula (www.proteasofhawaii.com; 808/878-2533, ext. 210), located next door to the Kula Lodge, is a reliable source of this exotic flower.
King Protea
East Maui
Paia
Maui Crafts Guild On the corner of Hana Highway and Baldwin Avenue, this artists’ collective features distinctive, high-quality crafts. For over 3 decades, the guild’s dozen or so artists have been fashioning exquisite works out of ceramic, glass, wood, mixed media, and natural fibers. The fluid, evocative stained-glass pieces by Joshua Lee Cox and the whimsical ceramics by Arabella Ark are particularly wonderful—and well worth the trouble of shipping home. 120 Hana Hwy. www.mauicraftsguild.com. 808/579-9697.
Pearl This chic housewares shop has two locations in Paia, both which supply everything necessary for beach cottage living: Turkish spa towels, vintage hardware, embroidered cover-ups, and Indonesian furnishings. Stylish shop owner Malia Vandervoort collects treasures from around the globe that match her soulful, simple aesthetic. Among her best-selling items, Annie Fischer’s handpainted, made-in-Maui pillows capture the hypnotic colors of Baldwin Beach just down the road. 285 Hana Hwy. and 71 Baldwin Ave. www.pearlbutik.com. 808/579-8899.
Wings Local designers and seamstresses claim to craft clothing for “real life mermaids” here at Wings. You’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces (boyfriend flannels with crochet patches and repurposed kimonos) and screen tees with clever logos—everything a young or young-at-heart lady needs to rule the beach like a queen. 69 Hana Hwy. www.wingshawaiishop.com. 808/579-3110.
Hana
Hana Coast Gallery Hidden away in the posh Travaasa Hana resort, this critically acclaimed, 3,000-square-foot gallery is an cultural experience to savor. You won’t find pandering sunsets or jumping dolphins here. Known for its quality curatorship and commitment to Hawaiian culture, this art haven is almost entirely devoted to Hawaii artists. Among the stellar Maui artists represented are plein air painter Michael Clements, master carver Keola Sequeira, and Melissa Chimera, whose massive botanical canvases feature endemic Hawaiian flowers. If you’re considering buying a koa wood bowl or piece of furniture, look here first; you’d be hard-pressed to find a better selection under one roof. At the Travaasa Hana. www.hanacoast.com. 808/248-8636.
Hasegawa General Store Since 1910, this family-run mercantile has been serving the Hana community. This humble, tin-roofed grocery store has just about anything you might need. (Check out the assortment of machetes above the office window.) Harkening back to the days when stores like these were islanders’ sole shopping outlet, the aisles are packed with books and music, fishing poles, Hana-grown coffee, diapers, fridge magnets, garden tools, fresh vegetables, dry goods, and ice cream. Don’t leave without a Hasegawa T-shirt or baseball cap to prove you were here. 5165 Hana Hwy. 808/248-8231.
Most of the larger hotels in Maui’s major resorts offer luau on a regular basis. You’ll pay about $80 to $120 to attend one, but don’t expect it to be a homegrown affair prepared in the traditional Hawaiian way. There are, however, commercial luaus that capture the romance and spirit of the luau with quality food and entertainment.
Maui’s best choice is indisputably the nightly Old Lahaina Luau (www.oldlahainaluau.com; 800/248-5828 or 808/667-1998). Located just ocean-side of the Lahaina Cannery, the Old Lahaina Luau maintains its high standards in food and entertainment—and enjoys an oceanfront setting that is peerless. Local craftspeople display their wares only a few feet from the ocean. Seating is provided on lauhala mats for those who wish to dine as the traditional Hawaiians did, but there are tables for everyone else. There’s no fire dancing in the 3-hour program, but you won’t miss it (for that, go to the Feast at Lele; p. 393). This luau offers a healthy balance of entertainment, showmanship, authentic high-quality food, educational value, and sheer romantic beauty. (No watered-down mai tais either; these are the real thing.)
The luau begins at sunset and features Tahitian and Hawaiian entertainment, including powerful hula kahiko (ancient hula), hula auana (modern hula), and an intelligent narrative on the dance’s rocky course of survival into modern times. The food, served from an open-air thatched structure, is as much Pacific Rim as authentically Hawaiian: imu-roasted kalua pig, baked mahi-mahi in Maui onion cream sauce, guava chicken, teriyaki sirloin steak, lomi salmon, poi, dried fish, poke, Hawaiian sweet potato, sautéed vegetables, seafood salad, and taro leaves with coconut milk. The cost is $125 for adults, $78 for children 12 and under.
For information on all of Maui’s luau, go to www.mauihawaiiluau.com.
Maui tends to turn out the lights at 10pm; nightlife options on this island are limited, but you’ll find a few gems listed below.
Many lobby lounges in the major hotels offer Hawaiian music, soft jazz, or hula shows beginning at sunset. If Amy Hanaialii, or Kealii Reichel are playing anywhere on their native island, don’t miss them; they’re among the finest Hawaiian musicians around today. Same with Hapa, a first-rate band composed of Barry Flanagan and rotating guests. Catch his dinner show on Tuesdays and Saturdays at Nalu’s South Shore Bar & Grill, in Azeka’s I 1280 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (www.nalusmaui.com; 808/891-8650). Maui’s answer to Jimi Hendrix, Willie K performs a weekly dinner show at Mulligan’s on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea (www.mulligansontheblue.com; 808/874-1131 [restaurant] and 808/280-8288 [show reservations]) and during Sunday brunch at the King Kamehameha Golf Club, 2500 Honoapiilani Hwy., Waikapu (www.kamehamehagolf.com; 808/249-0033).
Make time to see Ulalena , Maui Theatre, 878 Front St., Lahaina (www.ulalena.com; 808/856-7900), a Cirque du Soleil–style entertainment that weaves Hawaiian mythology with drama, dance, and state-of-the-art multimedia capabilities in a multimillion-dollar theater. It’s interactive; dancers stream down the aisles and musicians play from surprising corners. The story unfolds so seamlessly that at the end you’ll be shocked to realize that not a single word of dialogue was spoken. Performances Tuesday through Saturday; tickets run $70 to $115 for adults, $30 to $115 for children 6 to 12.
A very different type of live entertainment, Warren & Annabelle’s , 900 Front St., Lahaina (www.warrenandannabelles.com; 808/667-6244), is a magic/comedy cocktail show with illusionist Warren Gibson and “Annabelle,” an 1800s-era ghost who plays the grand piano (even taking requests from the audience) as Warren dazzles with his sleight-of-hand magic. Appetizers, desserts, and cocktails are available (as a package or a la carte). Two 4-hour shows, with check-in at 5 or 7:30pm. The show-only price is $69; the show plus gourmet appetizers and dessert costs $115. You must be 21 to attend.
Slack key guitar masters are showcased every Wednesday night at the Napili Kai Beach Resort’s indoor amphitheater, thanks to the Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Series (www.slackkey.com; 888/669-3858). The intimate shows present a side of Hawaii that few visitors get to see. Host George Kahumoku, Jr., introduces a different slack key master every week. Not only is there incredible Hawaiian music and singing, but George and his guest also “talk story” about old Hawaii, music, and local culture. Not to be missed. The show-only price is $38; the show plus dinner costs $95.
On the rooftop at Fleetwood’s on Front Street, 744 Front St., Lahaina (www.fleetwoodsonfrontst.com; 808/669-6425), you can catch local rock stars jamming with superstar Mick Fleetwood and his friends.
Other venues for music in West Maui include the following:
Hula Grill, in Whalers Village, Kaanapali (www.hulagrillkaanapali.com; 808/667-6636), has live music (usually Hawaiian) every day from 11am to 9pm.
Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina (www.kimosmaui.com; 808/661-4811), has live musicians every night at various times; call for details.
Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina (www.pioneerinnmaui.com; 808/661-3636), offers a variety of live music Tuesday and Thursday nights 5:30 to 8pm.
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 Office Rd., Kapalua (www.sanseihawaii.com; 808/669-6286), has karaoke Thursday and Friday from 10pm to 1am—during which time you can enjoy 50% off sushi and appetizers.
Sea House Restaurant, at the Napili Kai Beach Resort, Napili (www.napilikai.com; 808/669-1500), has live music nightly from 7 to 9pm.
Climb aboard the Pacific Whale Foundation’s Island Rhythms Sunset Cocktail Cruise 
(www.pacificwhale.org; 808/249-8811) for a rocking good time. Local musician Eric Gilliom gets everybody up and dancing on the deck of the boat. During whale season, even the Hawaiian humpbacks swim over to show their appreciation for his sweet serenades. Enjoy hearty appetizers and mixed cocktails while watching the sun sink into the liquid horizon. Adults $71, children 3–12 $46. Book online for 10% discount and board at Maalaea Harbor.
South Maui
The Kihei and Wailea in South Maui also feature music in a variety of locations:
Kahale’s Beach Club, 36 Keala Place, Kihei ( 808/875-7711), is a bit of a dive bar but has a potpourri of rock music nightly.
Haui’s Life’s a Beach, 1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (www.mauibars.com; 808/891-8010), has live music nightly and karaoke; call for times.
Mulligan’s on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea (www.mulligansontheblue.com; 808/874-1131), offers rollicking Irish music on Sunday, a Wednesday dinner show with local legend Willie K, and other entertainers during the week.
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, in Kihei Town Center, 1881 South Kihei Rd., Kihei (www.sanseihawaii.com; 808/879-0004), has karaoke Thursday through Saturday from 10pm to 1am—during which time you can enjoy 50% off sushi and appetizers.
South Shore Tiki Lounge, 1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (www.southshoretikilounge.com; 808/874-6444), has dancing nightly from 10pm to 1:30am.
Central Maui, Paia & Upcountry
The island’s most prestigious entertainment venue is the $32-million Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului (www.mauiarts.org; 808/242-7469). The center is as precious to Maui as the Met is to New York, with a visual arts gallery, outdoor amphitheater, rehearsal space, a 300-seat theater for experimental performances, and a 1,200-seat main theater. Check the website for schedules and buy your tickets in advance.
The Kahului Ale House, 355 E. Kamehameha Ave., Kahului (www.kahuluialehouse.com; 808/877-0001), has live music or a DJ most nights. In Waikapu, the Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapiilani Hwy. (www.mauitropicalplantation.com; 808/270-0333) is a dynamic venue for outdoor movies, parties, and live entertainment. Check the website for upcoming events.
In Paia, Charley’s Restaurant, 142 Hana Hwy. (www.charleysmaui.com; 808/579-8085), features an eclectic selection of music, from country to reggae to rock ’n’ roll Thursday through Saturday. Upcountry in Makawao, the party never ends at the popular Italian restaurant Casanova, 1188 Makawao Ave. (www.casanovamaui.com; 808/572-0220). If a big-name Mainland band is resting up on Maui following a sold-out concert on Oahu, you may find its members setting up for an impromptu night here. DJs take over on Wednesday (ladies’ night); on Friday and Saturday, live music starts between 9 and 10pm and continues to 1:30am. Expect blues, rock ’n’ roll, reggae, jazz, and Hawaiian. Elvin Bishop, the local duo Hapa, Los Lobos, and others have taken Casanova’s stage. The cover is usually $10 to $20.
