ROUTE 78

Bachlalm (1495m) – Sulzenhals (1825m) – Hofpürgl Hut (1705m) – Filzmoos (1057m)

Start	Bachlalm (1495m)
Distance	14km
Height gain	510m
Height loss	938m
Grade	3
Time	5½–6hrs
Location	Northwest and west of Bachlalm

Although there are easier, shorter and more direct routes between Filzmoos and Bachlalm, this moderately strenuous walk explores the wild and rugged beauty of the mountains on a tour which crosses the Sulzenhals saddle, then curves below the headwall of the Hinterwinkl valley before descending from the Hofpürgl Hut through woodland and pasture. Since there’s no opportunity for refreshment between Bachlalm and the Hofpürgl Hut (4hrs), it is essential to carry plenty of liquids with you.

Dachstein outliers above Filzmoos

Follow directions for Route 77 as far as the saddle of Sulzenhals (1825m, 1hr), then bear right, heading north on a steepish climb to gain the ridge spur of the Sulzenchied at about 1975m. Over this you cross a series of minor spurs above a little hanging valley, before rising among rocks and alpenroses to gain a crest bearing a row of trees. The way then takes you into a lovely alm pasture and comes to the junction of Rinderfeld (1760m), where the right branch climbs steeply to the Reissgangscharte on the way to the Adamek Hut. Ignore this option and continue ahead, losing height on the way to a second pasture with yet another path junction. This is Untere Rinderfeld, and should you feel the need for a quick descent to Filzmoos, you could take the left branch to Hofalm. For the full tour, however, keep ahead.

Tucked beneath the crags of the Gosauer Stein, the path (the Linzer Weg) heads northwest towards the Bischofsmütze, then curves left above the Kesselwand to a junction with a path used on the Gosaukamm Circuit (see Route 75). The Hofpürgl Hut is now seen ahead, and the path goes directly to it, about 4hrs from Bachlalm.

The quickest way down to Filzmoos takes a path about 200m north of the hut, which descends the east side of the ridge to Hofalm, from where the FilzmooserWanderbus ferries passengers through the valley to the village. But for our continuing walk, it is better to take path no 634 from the hut. Heading due south, this makes a long slanting descent through forest, and joins the quiet valley road about 3km north of Filzmoos.

OTHER ROUTES FROM BACHALM

The whole area spreading out from Bachlalm promises plenty of good walking. There are various tracks cutting through forests that lead to secluded alm pastures unmarked on the maps, and no shortage of marked trails too. The following list offers a small sample.

• From the Bachlalm Gasthof at least two routes (paths no 614 and 671) go directly to Filzmoos in 2hrs or so.
• Heading north across the Dachstein massif, the Adamek Hut can be reached in 4hrs via the 2438m Windleger Scharte. This is a demanding route for experienced mountain walkers only.
• A less demanding, but somewhat complicated route takes walkers to Ramsau Ort in 3½hrs, while rock climbers have a vast playground on which to practise their sport.

WALKS FROM RAMSAU AM DACHSTEIN

As mentioned above, Ramsau is well-known to nordic skiers, for the broad green terrace on which the village is scattered is ideal for cross-country skiing, and in the summer for gentle valley walks. But being situated at the foot of the Dachstein gives it something extra, for the great limestone walls are on show at almost every turn. Apart from the obvious appeal of the Dachsteinsüdwand cable car which lifts visitors to the ridge overlooking the Schladminger glacier, there are hut walks to consider, exciting klettersteig routes, and a multi-day tour of the Dachsteingebirge that would satisfy any hut-to-hut enthusiast.

• The Dachstein-Südwand Hut is understandably popular with visitors to Ramsau, for it can be reached in little more than 30–40mins from the Türlwand roadhead (bus services and large car park) at the foot of the cableway. Its location is very fine, being set on a spur thrust forward from the Dachstein’s south face.
• The Austria Hut is also popular for the same reason as the Südwand Hut – ease of access from the roadhead.
• Tucked on the Dachstein’s ridge at 2740m, the Seethaler Hut is visited by plenty of walkers in summer; after riding the cable car, the hut can be reached in 40–45mins. Spectacular views add to its appeal.
• North of Ramsau Kulm, the Guttenberghaus sits at 2147m at the base of the Eselstein towards the eastern end of the Dachstein massif. A lovely walk of 3½–4hrs along the Anton-Baum Weg takes you there from the outskirts of Kulm.
• The 2553m Eselstein has a klettersteig route which begins at the Guttenberghaus, and this is linked with the classic, much longer klettersteig created along the main spine of the Dachstein. Adepts only need consider.