SERVES 4
Due to overfishing, there is not as much Gulf grouper available as there once was. However, management policies are making good inroads into bringing the fish back. Anglers from all over flood the Texas Gulf region in the late fall to catch the few weeks that fishing for grouper is allowed. In this recipe, I combine the sweet grouper with even sweeter lobster-corn gravy and then highlight the sweetness with crisp and spicy oysters.
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup small-dice onion
2½ cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
2 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup heavy cream
Fresh lemon juice
Salt
½ cup diced cooked smoked bacon
¼ cup crumbled cooked breakfast sausage
¼ cup diced roasted poblano chile
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Four 6-ounce Gulf grouper fillets, trimmed of skin and bones
Freshly ground pepper
½ cup Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise (here)
¾ cup cold-smoked pecan pieces (see sidebar at right)
1 cup large-dice cooked lobster meat
Crispy Tabasco Oysters (recipe follows)
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in 2 cups of the corn kernels and the thyme and sauté for 2 minutes more.
Add the stock and bring to a boil. Immediately add the cream and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for 20 minutes, or until the corn is very tender and the liquid has thickened.
Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Process to a smooth puree. Season with lemon juice and salt and set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon, sausage, poblano, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes.
Stir in the remaining ½ cup of corn and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Season the grouper with salt and pepper.
Heat the 2 remaining tablespoons of oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Carefully lay the fish in the hot pan, flesh side down. Sear for 1 minute. Turn and sear the opposite sides for an additional minute.
Using a pastry brush, generously coat the top of each fillet with the mayonnaise. Sprinkle a thick layer of the pecans over the mayonnaise on each fillet.
Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and roast for 4 minutes per each ½ inch of thickness (measuring from the thickest section). Do not overcook, as the fish should still be very moist. Remove from the oven and keep warm.
Return the corn gravy to medium heat, fold in the lobster, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or just until the lobster is hot.
Spoon an equal portion of the gravy into the center of each of four warm dinner plates. Place a grouper fillet in the center of the gravy and then place 3 oysters on top of the fish. Serve immediately.
Following the instructions for cold smoking on here, you will need to smoke the pecans for 10 or 15 minutes. When you do, make a batch. They are an addictive snack but also add subtle flavor to all sorts of dishes, from salads to soups to desserts.
MAKES 12 OYSTERS
12 large shucked and drained Gulf or other high-quality oysters
2 tablespoons Tabasco Chipotle sauce
1 cup buttermilk
4 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)
Vegetable oil, for frying
Salt
Combine the oysters and Tabasco in a small bowl and toss gently to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Remove the oysters from the refrigerator. Uncover, add the buttermilk, and stir to blend.
Combine the flour and spice blend in a medium bowl.
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over medium-high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.
Working with a few at a time, lift the oysters from the buttermilk mixture and dredge completely in the flour mixture.
When the oil has reached the desired temperature, quickly, but carefully, drop the oysters into the hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain. Season with salt and serve hot.
SERVES 4
Catfish are found in every body of water throughout Texas, and hooking them is the most popular sportfishing expedition. Blue, channel, and flathead catfish, ranging in size from just a pound or two to trophy fish well over one hundred pounds, are not only great sport, but terrific eating. In this dish, we combine the familiar but delicious catfish with two other traditional Texas dishes, Gulf jambalaya and country okra.
Four 6-ounce boneless, skinless catfish fillets
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup yellow cornmeal
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)
1 cup vegetable oil
2 cups hot East Texas Seafood Jambalaya (here)
16 to 20 pieces Crispy Texas Okra (here)
Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper.
Combine the cornmeal, flour, and spice blend in a large shallow bowl.
Place the seasoned catfish in the cornmeal mixture and turn to coat evenly. Press the fish into the mix to make sure the coating adheres.
Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer. Add the catfish in a single layer without crowding the pan. Fry for 3 minutes and then turn and fry on the opposite sides for an additional 3 minutes, or until the fish is golden brown and cooked through.
Using a slotted spatula, transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain.
Spoon about ½ cup of the jambalaya into the center of each of four warm dinner plates. Place a catfish fillet on top of each serving and tuck 4 to 5 pieces of the okra beside the fish. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4
Holy Moly! That’s my favorite expression to say “WOW!” This is truly a Texas “Wow” recipe. Steak, lobster, potatoes, enchiladas, smoked tomatoes, pickled onions—could you want anything more? I know it sounds like a lot, but I’m telling you, if you do it all, you are going to be serving one unforgettable Texas-size meal—and, come on, who doesn’t love a good surf-and-turf dinner?
Four 5-ounce lobster tails, cut in half lengthwise
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 cups “Loaded” Mashed Potatoes (here)
4 Spinach Enchiladas (here)
1 cup Smoked Tomato Gravy (here)
Barbecue Spiced Beef Tenderloin (here)
½ cup Pickled Red Onions (here)
Place the lobster tail halves in a medium bowl. Add the buttermilk and toss to coat. Transfer to the refrigerator and let marinate for 30 minutes.
Combine the flour, spice blend, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and stir to blend well.
Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over medium-high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.
Remove the lobster from the refrigerator. Working with one piece at a time, lift the lobster from the buttermilk, shaking off excess liquid. Press the marinated lobster into the flour mixture, taking care that all sides are well coated.
Transfer the lobster to the hot oil and fry for 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Carefully transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain. Season with salt.
Spoon ½ cup of the potatoes into the center of each of four warm dinner plates. Place an enchilada at one side and then spoon an equal portion of the gravy over each enchilada. Place a tenderloin medallion on top of the potatoes and tuck 2 lobster tail halves next to the beef. Place a small mound of the onions between the beef and the enchilada and serve.
SERVES 4
Here you have my version of the Southern classic shrimp and grits with a little Texas jump start. Even if you don’t live on the Gulf, this dish will transport you there. Of course, you can use any shrimp; we’re just partial to ours. The sauce is spilling over with deep-in-the-heart-of-Texas flavor—a little heat, a little sweet, and a little spice. Piled on a mess o’ grits, you’ve got one perfect meal.
12 large (16–20 per pound) Gulf shrimp or other high-quality shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup minced red onion
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño chile
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups Thickened Chicken Stock (here) or thickened nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup crumbled cooked bacon
¼ cup chopped tomato
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Tabasco sauce
2 cups Jalapeño Grits (here)
¼ cup crumbled Cotija cheese
Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish (optional)
Season the shrimp with salt. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. When very hot but not smoking, add the seasoned shrimp and sauté for 2 minutes. Stir in the onion, garlic, chile, and cumin and cook for another 2 minutes. Stir in the stock, bacon, tomato, and chopped cilantro and bring to a simmer. Simmer for about 3 minutes, or just until the shrimp are cooked through.
Remove from the heat and season with lime juice and Tabasco. Taste and, if necessary, season with salt.
Spoon about ½ cup of the grits into the center of each of four warm dinner plates. Place 3 shrimp on top of the grits on each plate. Spoon an equal portion of the shrimp cooking sauce over the top of the shrimp, and sprinkle each plate with a tablespoon of the cheese. Garnish with a cilantro sprig, if desired.
Texas shrimp are caught wild out in the deep waters of the Gulf, and nothing can compare to their sweet flavor. The two main commercial species harvested from the Gulf of Mexico and South Atlantic Ocean are typed by color. White shrimp are the most predominant catch and are the standard by which all other shrimp are measured. They are very sweet and firm-textured and can grow to about 8 inches in length. The bulk of the annual harvest comes directly from the Gulf. Mostly concentrated in the waters off Texas and Louisiana, brown shrimp are somewhat smaller with firmer flesh. When cooked, both result in red shells with pinkish-white meat and have the same nutritional value and about the same flavor. Brown shrimp often have a slightly higher iodine flavor. In Texas, shrimping generates more than $800 million in sales and provides almost 15,000 jobs.