FEARING’S TEXAS PANTRY
STAPLES
A WORD ABOUT STOCKS
Stocks are probably the most important kitchen staple, both in a restaurant and at home, so almost every cookbook has recipes for them. Rather than give you another one, let me tell you why a good homemade stock will make all the difference in the world to any recipe calling for one. First and foremost, when you make your own stocks you have complete control of the quality of the ingredients and the seasoning. It is a good idea to make a big batch of stock and freeze it in small quantities so you will always have it on hand. Starting with a ratio of about 1 part bones/meat to 6 parts water, here’s what you do:
If you want a richer stock, first roast the bones (poultry or game bird carcasses or veal or beef bones) and, if using, pieces of fresh meat. This is true for all types, including chicken. Bones that are not browned will yield a light stock, in both color and flavor.
Cover the bones with cold water. This ensures that the collagen (the gelatin-forming agent) is extracted as the stock cooks. Adding the bones to hot water would seal them, keeping the collagen inside, and since much of the flavor comes from the collagen and cartilage in the bones, you don’t want to lose any of the deliciousness.
Do not add salt to the water. Salt can be added when you use the stock in a recipe.
Bring the bones to a boil. Add the vegetables (hunks of carrots, onion or leek, and celery, known as mirepoix) and herbs. I use a little sachet of fresh thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and peppercorns, but this really is the cook’s choice. For a hint of Texas, I often add a few ancho chiles to the pot. For a very rich beef or veal stock, I use chicken stock as the cooking liquid and, before it is added, I cover the bones with about 2 cups of red wine and reduce the liquid by half. Once the red wine has reduced, I add the chicken stock. This yields a very rich stock that can be further reduced for sauces. Be sure to skim off the scum that rises to the top.
Once the stock comes to a boil, lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer, skimming frequently. Simmer for at least 4 hours to extract the maximum flavor.
Strain through a very-fine-mesh sieve (you can even line it with cheesecloth for greater clarity, but for home use this really isn’t necessary).
Chill the strained stock in an ice bath. As it chills, the fat will rise to the top or form little balls, which can then be skimmed off.
Store the stock in 1-cup measures. Be sure to label and date them. The shelf life of the stock, refrigerated, is 1 week; frozen, 3 months.
Now, if you don’t have stock on hand, or you do not have time to make it, buy the best-quality canned, nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth you can find. Besides, it is always a good idea to keep a supply of canned stock or broth in the pantry for emergencies.
BEANS
I have no idea how many types of beans can be found throughout the world, but in Texas we primarily use only four: black, pinto, and red as well as black-eyed peas. Each one is inexpensive, packed with nutrition, agriculturally enriching, easy to store, and delicious. The edible seeds of pod-bearing plants, and one of nature’s most balanced foods, beans are low in fat, and what fat they do contain is unsaturated. They are cholesterol-free, yet help manage blood cholesterol and glucose, and are high in vegetable protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. Wearing any number of disguises, either combined with animal protein or working their magic with rice, beans can come to the table in everyday meals or in four-star recipes.
Dried pinto, red, and black beans
Buying and storing dried beans and peas: Always purchase dried beans from stores with a high turnover, such as health food stores, or directly from the farmer. This ensures that you have the freshest product. Dried beans should be stored in a cool spot in see-through, airtight containers. Dried beans seem to keep indefinitely, but the older they are, the longer they will take to cook.
Cooking dried beans and peas: Presoak in 10 times as much cold water as beans for at least 8 hours in a cool spot. Some cooks no longer do the presoak, but I think that soaking results in a creamier bean. Discard the soaking liquid and cover with enough fresh liquid (water, broth, or stock) so that there are 2 inches of liquid above the beans. Place over high heat and bring to a boil; then lower the heat and simmer for about 1 hour, or until tender.
If you don’t have time for a good, long presoak, place the dried beans in a large pot and cover with at least 3 inches of cold water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes; then remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for no less than 1 hour and no more than 2 hours. Drain and rinse well before proceeding with your recipe.
Black Beans: Small, with a shiny exterior and a richly flavored interior, black beans are native to South America. They are also known as turtle beans or frijoles negros. They are used in soups, sauces, dips, side dishes, and entrées.
Pinto Beans: A variety of haricot, or common bean, pinto beans are the most frequently used dried bean in the United States. Medium in size, pale brownish-pink in color with a slightly mottled exterior, and mellow in flavor, pinto beans are most often used for refried beans, for fillings for burritos and other stuffed Mexican dishes, and in chilies that have beans as a component.
Red Beans: Similar to pinto beans, except deeply red in color and somewhat denser in texture, red beans are a very meaty bean, often used in combination with rice to create a filling, nutritious meal.
Black-Eyed Peas: Available fresh, frozen, and dried, black-eyed peas are often associated with dishes from the American South. Medium in size, pale yellow with a black heel (or dot), thin-skinned, and relatively quick cooking, they are also known as cowpeas or field peas. Black-eyed peas were brought to Texas by cooks from the Southern states as they moved west around the time of the Civil War.
CHILES
I don’t know where I’d be without the rich, zesty flavor that chiles, either fresh or dried, add to dishes. When I started cooking, chiles were not in my culinary vocabulary, but they certainly are now. I am amazed at the variety that we have available, even from the local supermarket. I would guess that there are thousands of types of chiles grown around the world, but in Texas, and particularly at Fearing’s, we generally use just a few. The spicy heat carried in a chile is measured in Scoville units, which range from zero to the millions. Bell peppers are down in the zero spectrum, while habaneros can be in the millions. These heat units indicate the amount of capsaicin in an individual chile, noting that within a type the heat amount can vary greatly from chile to chile. If you remove the seeds and the interior white membrane from most chiles, you can decrease the amount of heat somewhat.
Fresh Chiles: Fresh chiles should be firm to the touch with smooth, shiny skin. There should be no evidence of spotting or softening around the base of the stem end. If not used immediately, chiles should be wrapped in paper towels and stored, refrigerated, in a resealable plastic bag.
When working with fresh chiles, it is a good idea to wear disposable rubber gloves. If using the chile raw, cut or pull off the stem end, slice the chile in half lengthwise, and carefully remove and discard the seeds and membrane. When you are finished working with chiles, whether you wear gloves or not, always wash your hands in hot, soapy water to remove any oils, and never rub your face or eyes until your hands are very, very clean and dry.
If roasting small chiles, place the whole chile on an ungreased frying pan or griddle and, using tongs, frequently turn until all sides are blistered. Then remove from the pan and stem and seed as for raw. If you’re roasting large chiles and if you want to peel them before use, you can fire-roast them by using tongs to hold the chile directly over an open flame. Roast, turning frequently, for about 1 minute, or until all sides are lightly blistered. You don’t want to blacken or burn the chile. You can also roast them, as you would small chiles, on the stovetop, char under a broiler, roast in a 400ºF oven, or fry in hot oil to blister the skin. Transfer the hot chile to a resealable plastic bag, seal, and let steam for no more than 5 minutes to loosen the skin. You can also wrap the hot chile in a towel for a couple of minutes and then use the towel to push off the blackened skin.
ANAHEIM: Mild but flavorful, this long, slender green chile is usually slightly sweet in flavor. Anaheims are also known as long green, California, or Magdalena chiles. A hotter version of this same chile is grown in New Mexico (see New Mexico chile below). The heat level of Anaheim chiles can vary from very mild to quite pungent. They are often stuffed to make chiles rellenos, as well as used for chile con queso, a favorite snack of cheese and chiles that originated in Texas. When dried, they are red and known as seco del norte.
HABANERO: Ooo-eee! These are hot little guys; Scoville units begin in the mid-hundred thousands. The lantern-shaped habaneros are a soft green as they ripen, and then turn a beautiful orange or deep red when fully mature, although they can also be found in other colors. Because they have such a defined citrusy sweetness with the heat, habaneros are one of the most popular chiles used in Mexican and Mexican-style dishes. In recent years, Texas growers have bred a new habanero that retains the distinct flavor with less heat.
JALAPEÑO: These are probably the best-known chile in the United States. Shiny-skinned with a great vibrant, dark green color, a rather stumpy look, and a full fat top tapering to a rather rounded point, jalapeños range in size from 1 inch to 3 inches long. They have a wide variation in heat, running from extremely mild to blisteringly hot. When fully ripe, the green turns to bright red. Jalapeños are also frequently sold pickled and canned.
NEW MEXICO: See Anaheim (above), although the long green chiles grown in New Mexico frequently contain more heat than those grown in Texas and California.
POBLANO: Triangular in shape, thick-skinned, and fleshy, this chile begins to ripen at a purplish-green color and then progresses to a deep red color when fully mature. Quite large, about 5 inches long, with a fat, ridged top, these chiles have a very complex flavor that is best experienced when cooked. Because of its thick skin, the poblano is almost always charred and peeled before use. The Scoville unit measurement is usually from 2,500 to 6,000. Poblanos are often used for chiles rellenos.
SERRANO: Small, shiny-skinned chiles with a thin layer of crisp flesh, serranos are piquant and herbal in flavor when in the early green-colored stage of maturation, and richer in flavor when extremely ripe and red. They are frequently used in salsas and cooked sauces. The heat range is from hot to tongue-blistering.
Dried Chiles: Chiles are dried, for the most part, simply for preservation. They are most often used in cooked sauces but are occasionally fried for use as a garnish. Generally a specific recipe will designate how to prepare the dried chile that is called for. Since chiles are often sun-dried on the ground, they are usually dusty and dirty. The first step to prepare dried chiles is to gently wipe the dust with a damp paper towel. Next, remove the stem and seeds. Sometimes the chile is toasted, sometimes soaked, sometimes roasted for a short period of time. It is important to follow the instructions given, as the preparation method impacts on the final flavor. Toast chiles, turning frequently, over an open flame for about 1 minute or until all sides are lightly blistered. You don’t want to blacken or burn the chile. Chiles can be soaked by covering with hot water for 20 minutes. You can also roast dried chiles in a 400ºF oven for about 3 minutes.
ANCHO: A deep red fully ripe poblano that has been dried, a desirable ancho is about 3 inches wide and 4 to 5 inches long, flexible, reddish-brown (not black) in color, with wrinkly skin. Anchos are used for moles, soups, or cooked sauces, or are ground to a powder.
CHILE DE ÁRBOL: An extremely hot, bright red, long, thin dried chile, the chile de árbol is generally used in cooked table sauces or in stews, although it is popular ground to a powder to be sprinkled on fresh fruit, nuts, or crisp vegetables. It is usually toasted before use.
CHIPOTLE: A fully ripened jalapeño that has been smoke-dried, which gives it a defined tobacco-like flavor, the dried chile has a very tough, wrinkled outer skin and is usually about 1 inch wide and a couple of inches long. Chipotles are also available canned, either pickled or in adobo (red chile) sauce.
GUAJILLO: One of the least expensive and most popular dried chiles, the guajillo chile is long, thin, smooth-skinned, and dark red, and ranges from extremely hot to tangy in flavor. The thinner the chile, the hotter the taste. Guajillos are generally ground for use in combination with other chiles for seasoning mixes.
PASILLA: Wrinkled, shiny-skinned, almost black in color, this very long, thin chile is a dried chilaca. It is almost always toasted and soaked before use in cooked sauces. It can also be rehydrated and used whole, and stuffed with meat or cheese and fried.
FRESH HERBS
Although there is a wide variety of culinary herbs, I have listed only those that I use frequently, or those that are found in regional dishes.
Chives: This long, slender, hollow-stemmed herb is related to the onion family. It is used primarily as a garnish on dishes that require just a slight oniony accent.
Cilantro: Now commonplace, cilantro was almost totally unknown thirty years ago. Its widespread availability indicates just how popular Mexican cooking is throughout the United States. Cilantro is a slightly pungent but fragrant, light green leafy herb with a flavor that some call “soapy.” Quite fragile, with a tendency to wilt and brown quickly, it is best bought and stored with its roots intact. It is used to flavor both raw and cooked sauces, as a garnish for tacos, in moles, and with seafood, among a host of other dishes. Both the leaves and the stems can be used.
Epazote: Known as pigweed to American gardeners, epazote is usually pulled and discarded. Only in Mexico do cooks prize its sharp, distinct flavor, which some liken to turpentine or detergent. It is a tall, rangy herb with pointed, serrated leaves that is a required ingredient for Mexican black beans and zesty soups. It is available in Mexican markets and at some farmers’ markets or, maybe, in your backyard.
Flat-Leaf Parsley: This common bright green herb, sometimes called Italian parsley, is used either chopped or as whole leaves to flavor many cooked dishes or as a garnish for finished dishes. Both leaves and stems can be used to add a slightly peppery accent.
Marjoram: This tall, light green herb with rounded, slightly fuzzy leaves has a delicate citrusy, almost mint-like, sweet flavor. Also known as sweet marjoram, it is used to flavor sauces and stews.
Oregano: There are two types of oregano used in our kitchen, Mediterranean and Mexican. The former is much less pungent than the Mexican, but the flavor of both mimics marjoram, although stronger. Both the soft green leaves, slightly rounded to a point, and the purple flowers are used. Because of its pungency, oregano is generally added with caution, as a little goes a long way.
Sage: A lovely soft gray-green herb with oval-shaped fuzzy leaves, sage has a flat but intense, almost medicinal, flavor. An ancient herb, it is used in flavoring a wide variety of dishes as well as in sausage making.
Thyme: A woody, low-growing herb with tiny greenish-gray leaves. thyme has a strong citrusy, woodsy flavor. It is used to make a classic French bouquet garni along with parsley and bay leaf. There are now a variety of fresh thymes, such as lemon, caraway, orange, and variegated, which are frequently available at farmers’ markets.
DRIED SPICES AND HERBS AND SEEDS
A spice pantry should be stocked with only small amounts of those dried spices and herbs that are used frequently, as they very quickly lose their intensity of flavor and aroma. Dried spices can be heated just a bit to pull out the flavor, but ground spices and herbs cannot be revived once the flavor has dissipated. Texas cooking does not use a wide variety of dried spices or herbs; in fact, we primarily use only the three “c’s”—cinnamon, cumin, and coriander—and also oregano. At home and in the restaurant, I keep black peppercorns, which I grind as needed to ensure fresh, pungent flavor.
The one commercially packaged dried spice that most cooks don’t realize is a blend of a few herbs and spices is chile powder, unless it is labeled as pure chile powder. The commercial blend is usually a mixture of dried chiles, cumin, garlic, oregano, coriander, and cloves. Pure chile powder will usually be labeled with the type of chile, such as ancho chile powder, or as pure chili/chile powder.
The one seed or nut used consistently in Tex-Mex cooking is the pumpkin seed, also called pepita. These seeds are used in a wide variety of sauces and stews and as a garnish for finished dishes. In cooking, pepitas are the dark green interior kernel of a pumpkin seed, but the whole seed can also be referred to as a pepita. They are used both raw and roasted to add a delicate, slightly nutty flavor to a dish.
In my kitchens, both at home and in the restaurant, I use a finely ground sea salt, such as La Baleine, for general seasoning. It dissolves quickly and gives a pleasant salty flavor to a dish.
FLOURS
Cornmeal: A meal made from grinding dried corn kernels, it can be fine, medium, or coarse ground by either a water or a steel grinding method. Water grinding (also known as stone-ground) is the old-fashioned method, in which the grinding stones are powered by water. It produces the most desirable type of cornmeal, which carries the richest flavor and the most nutritional value since it includes some of the hull and germ of the corn. It does, however, have a short shelf life. Steel-ground cornmeal is substantially more shelf stable but has much lighter flavor and less nutritional value. Cornmeal may be yellow, white, or blue. We use the extraordinary cornmeal produced by the Homestead Gristmill (see Sources, here).
Masa: The literal translation of the Spanish word masa is “dough,” but it now is generally taken to mean masa harina, a powdery flour that is used to make tortillas. Real masa is a fresh dough made from treated, soaked, and ground corn mixed with water that is traditionally used to make both tortillas and tamales. Smooth fresh masa is used for tortillas, while coarse ground is specifically for tamales. Masa harina is fresh masa that has been dried and then ground to a smooth, flour-like consistency. Although easy to use, it lacks the deep corn flavor of fresh masa. Both the Quaker Oats and the Maseca brands are available in many supermarkets and most Hispanic markets.
OILS
Lard: Rendered, clarified pork fat, lard is used for frying or baking. The best quality is leaf lard, which comes from the visceral fat around the pig’s kidneys. Most lard available today has been processed to soften the flavor and increase shelf life. Some artisanal lards are now available at farmers’ markets and specialty butchers, and like many products, the quality of the lard is dependent upon the quality of the animal and the processing method.
Texas Olive Oil: Texas Olive Ranch 100% Pure Texas Extra Virgin Olive Oil is pressed from arbequina variety olives grown at Texas Olive Ranch between Carrizo Springs and Asherton. The arbequina was developed in Spain and is especially suitable for growing in the sandy loam soil of the Middle Rio Grande Valley, where the climate is very similar to that of southern Spain. The growing season in Texas is extremely hot, and the olives are usually harvested the first week of September. (See Source, here).
CHEESES
Queso Asadero (Queso Oaxaca): Queso simply means “cheese” in Spanish. Asadero is a mild, chewy cheese traditionally used to fill chiles rellenos and chile con queso. If asadero is unavailable, teleme or Muenster cheese is a good substitute.
Cotija: In Mexico, Cotija is a dry, salty aged cheese, similar to Parmesan, primarily used for grating over tacos or beans, or as a crumble to add flavor to soups or stews. However, it is also available in the United States as a softer fresh cheese similar to feta.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES
TEXAS-STYLE BARBECUE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: Brush on or dip for all types of grilled or smoked items.
1 tablespoon bacon fat
1 large yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon malt vinegar
2 teaspoons Creole mustard
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Fresh lemon juice
Salt
Preheat the oven to 375ºF.
Heat the bacon fat in a small ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and fry for about 5 minutes, or until softened. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Combine the ketchup, Worcestershire, molasses, vinegar, mustard, and Tabasco in a small bowl and stir to blend. Add lemon juice and salt to taste.
Pour the ketchup mixture over the diced onions and stir to blend. Cover, place in the preheated oven, and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven, transfer to a blender, and puree until smooth. Strain the sauce through a coarse-mesh strainer.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
APRICOT BARBECUE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: Brush on or dip; grilled or smoked pork, game, poultry.
1 cup chopped dried apricots
1 cup chopped cold-smoked onion (see here)
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
2 cups fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Salt
Combine the dried apricots, onion, brown sugar, garlic, and chile in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir in the orange juice, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, lime juice, and Tabasco. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Season with salt to taste, lower the heat, and cook at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove the sauce from the heat and scrape into a blender. Process to a smooth puree. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before using.
SMOKY BACON BARBECUE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: Even though this is not used in a main-dish recipe, it is such a terrific Texas-style barbecue sauce that I had to include it. It can be used for everything grilled or smoked.
1 tablespoon bacon fat
1 cup ¼-inch-dice onion
2 cups ketchup
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon malt vinegar
2 teaspoons Creole mustard
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Salt
¼ cup chopped cooked smoky bacon
Preheat the oven to 375ºF.
Heat the bacon fat in a small ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until the onion has softened. Remove from the heat.
Combine the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, molasses, vinegar, mustard, lemon juice, and Tabasco in a small bowl and whisk to combine. If necessary, season with salt.
Pour the ketchup mixture over the onion, cover, and transfer the pan to the preheated oven. Bake for 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and stir in the cooked bacon.
Serve warm or as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before serving.
FEARING’S MOP SAUCE
MAKES 1 QUART
Uses: Brushed on all steaks at the end of the cooking process—I can’t eat a steak without this sauce!
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon freshly cracked pepper
1 bottle Shiner Bock beer (see sidebar, here)
2 cups molasses
1 cup Worcestershire sauce
½ cup balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon ground chile de árbol
¼ cup cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup cold water
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté for about 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Stir in the shallots, garlic, and pepper and continue to sauté for 2 minutes more.
Add the beer and, using a heatproof spatula, scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half.
Add the molasses, Worcestershire, vinegar, mustard, and chile and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for 5 minutes.
Whisking constantly, add the cornstarch mixture in a slow, steady stream. Continue to cook for a few minutes more, or until the sauce is thick and the cornstarch taste has cooked out. Season to taste with lime juice and salt.
Serve as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
“D1” SAUCE
MAKES 1 QUART
Uses: My version of the famous A1 Steak Sauce. Use as a glaze for any roasted, grilled, or smoked items.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup roughly chopped yellow onions
¼ cup roughly chopped carrots
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon freshly cracked pepper
1 cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup Worcestershire sauce
2 cups rich beef stock or nonfat, low-sodium beef broth
½ cup ketchup
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ cup cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup cold water
Salt
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until just beginning to color. Stir in the carrots, garlic, and cracked pepper and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until the carrots have taken on some color.
Stir in the vinegar and Worcestershire and, using a heatproof spatula, scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half.
Add the stock, ketchup, and brown sugar and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Whisking constantly, add the cornstarch mixture in a slow, steady stream. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, or until quite thick.
Remove the sauce from the heat and pour into a blender. Holding the lid down with a folded kitchen towel to prevent a steam explosion, process to a smooth puree. Season with salt to taste.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before using.
TABASCO BUTTER SAUCE
MAKES 2 CUPS
Uses: This is a great all-around sauce for everything—I really love it with fish.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
¼ cup chopped shallots
¼ cup chopped leek
¼ cup chopped celery
¼ cup chopped red bell pepper
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
3 chiles de árbol
2 fresh thyme sprigs
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley stems
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup Tabasco sauce
½ cup heavy cream
1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Fresh lemon juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots, leek, celery, bell pepper, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened.
Stir in the chiles, thyme, parsley stems, and black pepper. Add the wine and cook, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid has almost totally evaporated.
Stir in the Tabasco and cream and bring to a boil. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the cream has thickened slightly.
Whisk in the butter, a bit at a time, and continue to whisk until all the butter has been incorporated into the sauce.
Remove the sauce from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt. Keep warm until ready to use.
CILANTRO HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: Great at breakfast time with eggs, or anytime over roasted or grilled vegetables.
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 tablespoons cold water
1 cup (2 sticks) warm clarified unsalted butter or ghee
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1½ tablespoons fresh lime juice
Tabasco sauce
Salt
Fill a medium saucepan about halfway with water. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer.
Combine the egg yolks with the cold water in a heat-resistant bowl that will fit into the top of the water-filled pan. Set the bowl on top of the simmering water, taking care that the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Cook, stirring, for 10 minutes.
Slowly begin adding the clarified butter (melted butter with the floating solids skimmed off, warm but not hot) in a thin stream, whisking constantly until all of the butter has been added and the sauce has a mayonnaise-like consistency. Whisk in the cilantro and lime juice. Add Tabasco and salt to taste. Keep warm until ready to use.
BACON BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: This is what I would call an “add-to” sauce, as I use it as a cream element for spinach or other sautéed greens.
½ cup bacon fat
¼ cup small-dice onion
¼ cup small-dice celery
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups rich chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup whole milk
Fresh lemon juice
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Heat the bacon fat in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring, for about 4 minutes, or until translucent. Add the thyme and then, stirring constantly, sprinkle in the flour. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 8 minutes, or until a golden-brown roux has formed.
Stirring constantly, slowly add the stock and milk. Reduce the heat and cook at a bare simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the sauce is thick.
Remove from the heat and season to taste with lemon juice and salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days. Reheat before using.
ANCHO SAUCE
MAKES 2 CUPS
Uses: A very versatile sauce, particularly good with eggs, but can add some Texas flair to almost anything you cook.
10 dried ancho chiles
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped carrot
2 corn tortillas, cut into strips
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons pure maple syrup
Salt
Remove the stems and seeds from the ancho chiles. Place the chiles in a heatproof bowl with hot water to cover by about 2 inches. Set aside to soak and soften for about 20 minutes.
Drain the chiles well and transfer to a blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade and process to a smooth puree. Scrape into a measuring cup; you should have 1 cup of puree. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Add the carrot and continue to cook for an additional 4 minutes. Stir in the tortillas, jalapeño, and garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and cilantro along with the ancho puree and stir to blend. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Puree until very smooth. Add the lime juice, maple syrup, and salt to taste and process to blend. Taste the sauce and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
RANCHERO SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: As a sauce for egg dishes like huevos rancheros, or for enchiladas or tacos.
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 cup finely diced onion
½ cup finely diced celery
½ cup finely diced carrot
½ cup finely diced red bell pepper
2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño chiles
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 cup Ancho Chile Paste (here)
2 cups vegetable stock or nonfat, low-sodium vegetable broth
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and bell pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are light brown.
Stir in the chiles and garlic and sauté for 1 minute.
Add the chile paste and cook for about 3 minutes to “fry” the paste.
Add the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro and lime juice to taste. Season with salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before using.
CHARRED TOMATO SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: As a sauce for almost any Mexican, Mexican-style, or Southwest recipe. It adds a rich, smoky finishing touch.
6 large ripe tomatoes
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups large-dice onions
1 bay leaf
½ cup smashed Roasted Garlic (see here)
½ cup veal demi-glace (see Note)
2 tablespoons seeded and chopped jalapeño chiles
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Place the tomatoes in a stovetop grill pan over high heat. Grill, turning frequently, for about 12 minutes, or until nicely charred on all sides and softened. Remove from the heat and set aside until cool enough to handle.
When cool enough to handle, core and chop the tomatoes, and set aside.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until the onions are golden and well caramelized. Add the reserved tomatoes along with the bay leaf, garlic, demi-glace, chiles, and cumin and stir to combine. Bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until the sauce is well flavored and thickened.
Remove from the heat and remove and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the cilantro. Taste and season with lime juice and salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before using.
NOTE: If you don’t make your own demi-glace, it is available from fine butcher shops, at specialty food stores, and online.
ROASTED GREEN CHILE SAUCE
MAKES 1 QUART
Uses: A great alternative for any dish that would use a Mexican red chile sauce.
2 cups chopped tomatillos
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
2 cups chopped poblano chiles
1 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup chopped fresh spinach leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Combine the tomatillos with the garlic, jalapeño, poblanos, and onion in a bowl. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and toss to coat well.
Transfer the seasoned vegetables to a baking pan and spread them out in a single layer. Place in the preheated oven and roast for 20 minutes, or until lightly browned.
Remove the vegetables from the oven and scrape into a medium saucepan. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.
When cool, transfer to a blender. Add the spinach and process to a smooth puree. Pour into a clean container. Stir in the cilantro along with lime juice to taste. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper.
Serve warm as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Reheat before serving.
DIABLO SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: I like this sauce with shrimp, but it adds a great all-around kick to any dish.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped smoked red bell pepper (see here)
¼ cup seeded and minced jalapeño chile
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon whole cumin seed
1½ cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup diced mango
1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper, chile, shallot, garlic, and cumin and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.
Add the stock, mango, and ginger and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for 10 minutes.
Scrape the mixture into a blender and process until very smooth. Season the sauce with lime juice and salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
GREEN CHILE MOJO
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Uses: A light, flavorful sauce that works well in the heat of summer on grilled fish and meat.
½ cup vegetable oil
2 roasted poblano chiles, stemmed, peeled, and seeded
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
½ bunch scallions, green part only, roughly chopped
½ bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
¼ cup mango, roughly chopped
¼ cup fresh lime juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the chiles, garlic, scallions, and cilantro and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for 10 minutes, or until the chiles and garlic are very tender.
Remove from the heat and pour through a fine-mesh sieve; reserve the chile mixture solids and the hot oil separately.
When the chile mixture has cooled a bit, transfer to a blender. Add the mango and process to a smooth puree, then add the reserved hot oil, a bit at a time, to make a smooth consistency. Add the lime juice, season with salt to taste, and process to blend.
Serve the sauce immediately, or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
QUESO ASADERO
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
Uses: The only thing I can say about the use of this is… “Where are the chips?”
1 cup chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
2 cups shredded asadero cheese
½ cup of your favorite tomato salsa
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Combine the chicken stock and cream in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Watching carefully to prevent spillover, bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Stirring constantly, add the cornstarch mixture in a thin, steady stream. Cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes, or until the gravy is very thick.
Remove from the heat, add the cheese, and stir until completely melted. Stir in the salsa and season to taste with lime juice and salt.
Use immediately or keep warm in the top half of a double boiler over a saucepan of simmering water until ready to serve.
TEX-MEX GRAVY
MAKES 1 QUART
Uses: A great smother over eggs or enchiladas.
2 tablespoons bacon fat
1 pound ground beef
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons pure chile powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano
4 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon masa harina (see here)
Heat the bacon fat in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and fry, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes, or until the meat has begun to brown. Stir in the garlic and onion and continue to fry, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the chile powder, cumin, and oregano and stir to blend. Add the chicken stock and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil; then lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the meat is thoroughly cooked and the liquid has reduced slightly.
Remove about ¼ cup of the cooking liquid and place it in a small bowl. Stir in the masa and when blended, stir the mixture into the meat until well incorporated. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for an additional 10 minutes, or until the gravy has thickened. Remove from the heat.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Reheat before using.
POBLANO CREAM GRAVY
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: This is a terrific alternative to the traditional cream gravy for the Texas breakfast favorite biscuits and gravy.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter (or bacon fat)
½ cup small-dice onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2½ cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
4 roasted poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
Tabasco sauce
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Heat the butter (or bacon fat) in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and jalapeño and cook, stirring, for about 4 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Sprinkle the flour over the top and stir to incorporate.
Add the milk and then the cream in a slow, steady stream and stir to blend. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes, or until thickened.
Stir in the poblanos and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.
Remove the gravy from the heat and transfer to a blender. Process to a smooth puree. Taste and season with Tabasco, lime juice, salt, and pepper as needed.
Serve hot as directed in a specific recipe, or the gravy may be made in advance and stored, covered and refrigerated, for a few hours. Reheat before serving.
SMOKED TOMATO GRAVY
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
Uses: Great for anything fried, even fried green tomatoes!
3 tablespoons bacon fat (or unsalted butter)
½ cup small-dice onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2½ cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
2 cups cold-smoked tomatoes (see here)
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Heat the bacon fat in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and chile and sauté for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent.
Sprinkle the flour over the onion mixture and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until light brown.
Combine the milk and cream in a small bowl and begin adding to the onion mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until thick.
Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat and cook at a simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Process to a smooth puree. Season to taste with lime juice, salt, and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 day.
POBLANO-PEPITA PESTO
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: A great summertime sauce. I enjoy this with tomatoes or anything grilled. It also offers a really different Mexican flavor to pasta dishes.
2 roasted poblano chiles, stemmed, peeled, and seeded
Juice of 1 lemon
½ pound fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
½ pound fresh spinach leaves, washed and dried
1 garlic clove, chopped
¼ cup roasted pepitas
2 tablespoons grated Cotija or Mexican farmer’s cheese
2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the poblanos with the lemon juice and basil and spinach leaves in a blender. Process to chop. Add the garlic, pepitas, and cheese along with the cold water and continue to process until very smooth. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream and process until a very smooth paste forms. If too thick, add additional water, a bit at a time. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
CILANTRO-LIME SOUR CREAM
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Uses: No limits!
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 pinch ground cumin
Juice of 1 lime
Salt
Combine the sour cream, cilantro, and cumin in a small bowl. Whisk in the lime juice and season to taste with salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 day.
HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Uses: I am such a lover of horseradish that I could eat this all by itself. Use it on everything!
One 8- to 10-inch piece fresh horseradish, peeled and grated (see Note)
2 cups sour cream
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Salt
Freshly cracked pepper
Combine the horseradish with the sour cream, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and lemon juice in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process just enough to blend well.
Scrape the sauce from the processor bowl into a clean container. Stir in the chives and season to taste with salt and cracked pepper.
Serve as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.
NOTE: Horseradish is very tough. It can be peeled with a strong vegetable peeler and can be grated by hand on the small holes of a box grater or on the grating blade of a food processor, but beware, it is very, very pungent so you may shed a few tears in the process. Do not try to process chunks of the root when mixing with the sour cream. It must be grated first or it won’t be fine enough in the final sauce.
SMOKED-BACON GASTRIQUE
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
Uses: On all fish dishes.
½ cup small-dice smoked bacon
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup small-dice onion
1 cup turkey stock or nonfat, low-sodium turkey broth
¼ cup Tabasco sauce
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 tablespoon molasses
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until all of the fat has rendered out.
Stir in the garlic and onion and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the stock, Tabasco, wine, molasses, and thyme and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for about 15 minutes, or until reduced by half and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Reheat before using.
THICKENED CHICKEN STOCK
MAKES 2¾ CUPS
Uses: To thicken any other sauces you like.
2½ cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Whisking constantly, begin adding the cornstarch mixture in a slow, steady stream. When all of the cornstarch has been incorporated, lower the heat to a simmer. Cook at a gentle simmer, whisking constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until smooth and thick and the starchiness has cooked out.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Reheat before using.
WATERMELON-JALAPEÑO GLAZE
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
Uses: A wonderful summer glaze that can be used on all grilled items.
4 cups fresh watermelon juice
1 cup chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth
4 jalapeño chiles, stemmed and chopped, seeds included
3 shallots, chopped
1 bunch fresh cilantro stems
2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Combine the watermelon juice with the stock, chiles, shallots, and cilantro stems in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and immediately whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Return to a boil, lower the heat, and cook at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove the glaze from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean container. Season to taste with lime juice and salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
SALSAS
GUACAMOLE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: Chips, chips, chips!!
3 large ripe avocados, pitted and peeled (see sidebar below)
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
¼ cup finely diced onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Salt
Fresh lime juice
Place the avocados in a shallow bowl and, using a kitchen fork, mash until smooth. Add the chile, onion, and cilantro and stir to blend. Season generously with salt and lime juice.
Serve the guacamole immediately if possible. If not serving immediately, reserve a pit and place it in the guacamole. Then cover the container with plastic wrap, pushing it directly onto the surface of the guacamole to prevent air from getting in; this will keep it from discoloring.
PICO DE GALLO
MAKES 2 CUPS
Uses: Anything you like.
1 cup ¼-inch-dice ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons ¼-inch-dice red onion
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Combine the tomatoes, onion, chile, and cilantro in a medium bowl. Season to taste with lime juice and salt and toss to combine. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
Pico de gallo is best when made within a couple of hours of use. Although the flavors blend over time, as it sits the tomatoes and onion soften and the fresh texture is lost.
Removing the Flesh from an Avocado
To extract the flesh from an avocado, first cut the avocado in half, from stem end around. Using your knife blade and a gentle, single motion, tap into the pit and pull up. The pit should pull away from the flesh. Remove the pit. Using a large serving spoon, push the spoon between the skin and the flesh and, following the curve of the avocado, move the spoon against the skin to lift out the flesh. The goal is to extract all of the flesh from the skin, leaving a perfectly clean shell of skin.
YELLOW TOMATO PICO DE GALLO
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Uses: Anything you like.
1 large yellow tomato, peeled, cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
1 medium jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced
1 small shallot, finely diced
Juice of 1 lime
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the tomato with the chile and shallot in a small bowl. Add the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for no more than a couple of hours. Longer storage will cause the tomatoes to become mushy.
MANGO PICO DE GALLO
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
Uses: A naturally sweet version of the traditional pico that is great with fish, shellfish, and pork.
2 ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 medium ripe tomato, peeled, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
½ small red onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
¼ cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
Salt
Combine the mango with the tomato, chile, onion, lime juice, and cilantro in a bowl and toss to blend. Taste and season with salt.
Let rest for 10 minutes before serving. The pico may be made in advance and stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.
WATERMELON PICO DE GALLO
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: My summertime version of a traditional pico.
1½ cups ¼-inch-dice seedless watermelon
½ cup ¼-inch-dice jicama
¼ cup ¼-inch-dice honeydew melon
¼ cup ¼-inch-dice cantaloupe
¼ cup ¼-inch-dice red onion
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Pure maple syrup
Salt
Combine the watermelon, jicama, honeydew, cantaloupe, and onion in a medium bowl. Gently stir in the chile, cilantro, and lime juice, being careful not to mash the fruit. Taste and season with maple syrup and salt as needed.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for no more than an hour or so. Longer storage will cause the melon to become mushy.
YELLOW TOMATO SALSA
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: A bright, colorful, and exciting salsa for dipping, chipping, or garnishing grilled pork, chicken, fish, or shellfish.
2 pints yellow cherry tomatoes, or 1 pound yellow tomatoes, peeled and cored
2 small white onions, minced (½ cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Salt
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup (optional)
Place the tomatoes in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and process until well chopped; do not puree.
Transfer the tomatoes along with their juices to a bowl. Add the onions, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, and lime juice, and mix well to combine. Season to taste with salt. Add maple syrup, if needed, to balance the flavor and sweeten slightly.
Do not make the salsa ahead; the mixture must be very fresh.
CHARRED TOMATO SALSA
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: This is my all-around great ole sauce to use on just about everything.
6 large ripe tomatoes, cored
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled
2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Salt
Fresh lime juice
Preheat the broiler.
Place the tomatoes in a baking pan that will fit under the broiler. Using 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and a pastry brush, lightly coat the top of each tomato.
Place under the broiler and broil for about 8 minutes, or until the skin is well charred and quite black. Remove from the broiler and set aside.
Turn off the broiler and set the oven temperature to 375ºF.
Combine the garlic, chiles, and onion with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss to coat well. Place in a baking pan and transfer to the preheated oven. Bake, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Combine the tomatoes with the garlic, chiles, onion, and cilantro in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process, using quick on-and-off turns, until blended but still slightly chunky; do not puree.
Generously season the salsa with salt and lime juice to taste and serve, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using.
NOTE: If you have a meat grinder, use it to make this salsa, as it results in a more authentic texture.
DRESSINGS AND VINAIGRETTES
ANCHO CHILE MAYONNAISE
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Uses: A terrific sandwich spread.
4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lime
Salt
Place the chiles in a heatproof bowl with hot water to cover by at least 1 inch. Set aside to soak for 20 minutes.
Drain the chiles well and transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process to a smooth puree. Add the egg yolk, vinegar, and mustard and process to blend completely.
With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream, processing until completely emulsified. When emulsified, blend in the lime juice and, if necessary, season with salt to taste.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or transfer to a plastic squeeze bottle and cover the opening with plastic wrap and then with the cap. Refrigerate until ready to use, or for up to 2 days.
ROASTED GARLIC MAYONNAISE
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
Uses: I like to use this as a dip for French fries, or as a glue for smoked pecans (see here) on top of grilled or baked fish.
8 large Roasted Garlic cloves (here), peeled
½ cup mayonnaise
Combine the garlic with the mayonnaise in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and process to a smooth puree.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or scrape into a clean container and store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
POINT REYES BLUE CHEESE DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Uses: It’s the cheese that makes this my favorite blue cheese dressing for salads.
1 cup crumbled Point Reyes Blue Cheese or other fine-quality blue cheese
1 cup buttermilk
½ cup sour cream
Juice of ½ lemon
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Splash Tabasco sauce
Salt
Combine the blue cheese with the buttermilk in a medium bowl. Add the sour cream along with the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and Tabasco, vigorously whisking to blend completely. The mixture should be almost smooth with just a few lumps of cheese remaining. Taste and season with salt if necessary.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
BARBECUED THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: This is a modern take on the traditional Thousand Island dressing—it just can’t be beat to give a hint of Texas to sandwiches and salads.
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup Texas-Style Barbecue Sauce (here) or other smoky barbecue sauce
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 hard-boiled egg, peeled and finely chopped
2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
1 teaspoon finely minced white onion
1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
1 tablespoon minced capers, well drained
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon snipped fresh chives
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Put the mayonnaise in a small bowl. Stir in the barbecue sauce, ketchup, vinegar, and lemon juice. When blended, add the chopped egg, relish, onion, mustard powder, capers, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and chives and stir to mix thoroughly. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
JALAPEÑO RANCH DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: My take on ranch dressings—use this for salads and sandwiches and as a glaze on grilled fish or pork.
1 cup buttermilk
½ cup mayonnaise
cup seeded and chopped jalapeño chile
One 1-ounce package ranch dressing mix
Tabasco sauce
Fresh lime juice
Put the buttermilk in a blender along with the mayonnaise and chile. Add the dressing mix and process to a smooth puree. Add the Tabasco and lime juice to taste and process to blend.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
SMOKED CHILE AIOLI
MAKES 2 CUPS
Uses: Versatile; use on a salad or to accompany a steak.
2 anchovy fillets
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cold smoked (see here)
1 roasted red jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ cup olive oil
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Combine the anchovies, bell pepper, chile, mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, garlic, Worcestershire, Tabasco, and smoked paprika in a blender. Process until very smooth.
With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. When well emulsified, add the lime juice and salt to taste.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
FIRECRACKER DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Uses: Where’s the Fourth-of-July picnic? Bring this to your table for salads and sandwiches all year long.
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 tablespoon Texas-Style Barbecue Sauce (here) or your favorite smoky sauce
1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce
½ tablespoon cask-aged sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon snipped fresh chives
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Put the mayonnaise in a medium bowl. Stir in the ketchup, barbecue sauce, Sriracha, and vinegar. When blended, stir in the garlic, anchovy paste, mustard powder, Worcestershire, cilantro, and chives. Taste and season with lime juice, salt, and pepper as needed.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
CREAMY BASIL DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Uses: My favorite dressing to drizzle over juicy, ripe summertime tomatoes, but it is also delicious on grilled vegetables or in potato salad.
2 packed cups fresh basil leaves
¼ cup olive oil
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon minced shallot
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the basil and oil in a blender and process to a smooth puree.
Put the mayonnaise in a medium bowl. Whisk the basil puree into the mayonnaise in a slow, steady stream. Add the mustard, vinegar, and shallot and stir to blend well. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
CARROT-CUMIN VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1½ CUPS
Uses: An unusual vinaigrette, this is terrific for salads, grilled veggies, and meats.
1½ cups peeled, roughly chopped, cold-smoked carrots (see here)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
Salt
2 teaspoons pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Fresh lime juice
Preheat the oven to 300ºF.
Combine the carrots with 1 tablespoon of the oil and the cumin seeds in a small baking pan and season with salt. Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are tender.
Scrape the carrots into a blender and, with the motor running, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil along with the maple syrup and vinegar. Season to taste with lime juice and, if necessary, add water to adjust the consistency. Season with additional salt if needed.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
MUSTARD-SAGE VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS
Uses: Great with raw, steamed, or grilled root vegetables.
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Combine the mayonnaise with the mustard, vinegar, and lime juice in a small bowl. Whisking constantly, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. When emulsified, whisk in the sage and season with the salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature and whisk before using.
HONEY-MUSTARD DRESSING
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
Uses: This is an all-time favorite of mine, and my kids love it, too. Serve it with fried chicken or, in fact, any deep-fried fish, shellfish, or meat tenders.
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon snipped chives
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the mayonnaise with the honey, mustard, lemon juice, and chives in a small bowl and stir to blend completely. Taste and, if necessary, season with salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
SMOKY CUMIN-LIME VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: You will love the mysterious smoke flavor that comes from this vinaigrette, as it adds zest to almost any grilled meat, fish, or vegetable.
1 cup fresh orange juice
½ cup diced cold-smoked onion (see here)
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons malt vinegar
½ tablespoon toasted cumin seeds
½ cup olive oil
½ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup fresh lime juice
Salt
Combine the orange juice with the smoked onion, maple syrup, vinegar, and cumin in a small nonreactive saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the liquid has almost completely evaporated.
Transfer the onion mixture to a blender and process to a smooth puree. With the motor running, add both the olive and vegetable oils in a slow, steady stream, processing until completely emulsified. Add the lime juice and salt to taste.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using.
SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
Uses: Great for all salads, tossed, green, or otherwise.
½ cup cask-aged sherry vinegar
½ cup apple juice
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 small shallot, minced
½ cup olive oil
1 cup vegetable oil
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the vinegar, apple juice, mustard, and honey in a small bowl. Stir in the shallot. Whisking vigorously, add the olive oil and vegetable oil in a slow, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using.
LIME VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 CUP
Uses: This vinaigrette is especially good with raw vegetable salads.
½ cup olive oil
½ cup fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon honey
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt
Combine the oil and lime juice in a small bowl. Add the honey and cayenne and whisk vigorously until completely blended. Add salt to taste.
Serve as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using.
SPICE MIXES, POWDERS, PASTES, AND GARNISHES
FEARING’S BARBECUE SPICE BLEND
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
Uses: On anything roasted, grilled, smoked, or fried.
¼ cup Pendery’s chile powder blend (see Sources, here)
1 tablespoon ground chipotle chile
1 tablespoon ground dried ancho chile
1 tablespoon hickory-smoked salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
½ tablespoon ground cumin
½ tablespoon granulated garlic
½ tablespoon Aleppo pepper
¼ tablespoon freshly ground pepper
Place the Pendery’s chile powder in a small bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Store, tightly covered, in a cool, dark spot until ready to use. Keeps for 3 months.
FEARING’S BARBECUE SPICE FLOUR MIXTURE
MAKES ABOUT 2¼ CUPS
Uses: This is the best chicken-fried flour blend known to man!
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (at left)
Place the flour in a small bowl. Add the spice blend and stir to combine.
Store, tightly covered, in a cool, dark spot until ready to use. Keeps for about 6 weeks.
BARBECUE SPICED PEPITAS
MAKES 2 CUPS
Uses: A garnish for almost anything you want to give a Texas hit to!
2 cups green Mexican pumpkin seeds
2 tablespoons Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (at left)
Salt
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Place the pumpkin seeds in a single layer on a baking sheet with sides. Transfer to the preheated oven and roast for about 8 minutes, or until fragrant and lightly colored.
Pour the hot seeds into a medium bowl. Add the spice blend and toss to coat. Add salt to taste.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered, in a cool spot, for up to 1 month.
PUMPKIN SEED POWDER
MAKES ¼ CUP
Uses: A fine garnish for the world of Texas cuisine.
¼ cup toasted unsalted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
Pour the pumpkin seeds into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process to a fine powder.
Store, tightly covered, at room temperature, for up to 1 week.
GUAJILLO CHILE PASTE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: The best enhancement I know for burgers, ground meats, and sausage making.
10 guajillo chiles
1 small carrot, peeled, trimmed, and roughly diced
1 cup fresh orange juice
½ onion, roughly diced
½ jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
5 fresh cilantro sprigs
Place the guajillos in a cast-iron frying pan over medium heat. Toast, turning, for about 4 minutes, or just until the chiles have taken on some color but are not burned. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool.
When cool, using a sharp knife, split the guajillos in half lengthwise. Remove and discard the seeds.
Combine the seeded guajillos with the carrot, orange juice, onion, jalapeño, and cilantro in a medium saucepan. Add just enough water to cover the chiles completely, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Process to a smooth puree.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 month.
ANCHO CHILE PASTE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Uses: For all-around great Texas chili making.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño chile
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon cumin seed
4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 cups vegetable stock or nonfat, low-sodium vegetable broth
1 cup diced, peeled, and seeded tomato
1 teaspoon minced fresh cilantro
Fresh lime juice
Salt
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, jalapeño, garlic, and cumin and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
Add the ancho chiles along with the stock, tomato, and cilantro and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Process to a smooth puree.
Pour into a clean container and season with lime juice and salt.
Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
FEARING’S GARLIC POWDER/SALT
MAKES ¼ CUP
Uses: This is my staple for anything roasted or grilled.
24 garlic cloves, peeled
Preheat the oven to 200ºF.
Fill a medium saucepan about two-thirds full with cold water. Add the garlic and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the garlic is very soft but not falling apart.
Remove from the heat and drain well. Transfer to a blender or food processer fitted with the metal blade and process to a smooth puree.
Coat a 13 by 7-inch pan with nonstick vegetable spray. Scrape the garlic puree onto the pan and, using a spatula, spread it out in an even layer. It should be about ¼ inch thick.
Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for about 4 hours, or until the garlic has dried out completely and hardened. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely.
When cool, transfer to a blender and process until the garlic is powder. Remove from the blender and pour through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any remaining large pieces.
Store, tightly covered, in a cool, dark spot for up to 3 months.
NOTE: To make garlic salt, add ½ cup coarse sea salt when blending, and continue with the process.
ROASTED GARLIC
MAKES AS MUCH AS YOU LIKE
Uses: A great addition to mashed potatoes, dressings, and sauces.
Heads or cloves of unpeeled garlic, as much as you like or need
Olive oil, for coating
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
If roasting whole heads, lay the heads on their sides and, using a sharp knife, cut about
inch off the stem ends.
Lightly coat the entire garlic heads or cloves with olive oil. Wrap them tightly in aluminum foil, place them on a baking pan, and roast in the preheated oven until soft and aromatic; whole heads should take about 25 minutes and individual cloves about 12 minutes.
Remove from the oven, unwrap, and let cool slightly.
Using your fingertips, push the pulp from the skin. The clove may or may not pop out whole, but either way it doesn’t matter, as roasted garlic usually gets mashed or pureed before use.
Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
PICKLES, RELISHES, AND CHUTNEYS
BLUE RIBBON CHOWCHOW
MAKES 4 PINTS
Uses: A great accompaniment to grilled meats, poultry, or fish or as a side dish on the table, picnic or otherwise.
5 cups coarsely chopped green tomatoes
5 cups (about 1½ pounds) coarsely chopped cabbage
1½ cups finely chopped yellow or sweet onion
2 cups coarsely chopped red bell pepper
cup kosher salt or pickling salt
2½ cups apple cider vinegar
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds
1 teaspoon celery seeds
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or as needed (optional)
Combine the tomatoes, cabbage, onion, and bell pepper in a large nonreactive bowl or saucepan. Add the salt and toss to blend thoroughly. Cover and let stand for 4 hours, or refrigerate overnight.
Drain the mixture well in a colander and rinse under cold running water. Squeeze out excess liquid. Set aside.
Combine the vinegar with the garlic, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, and red pepper flakes in a large nonreactive saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 5 minutes.
Add the well-drained vegetables, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Pack into hot, sterilized canning jars, leaving about ¼ inch headspace. Wipe the edges of the jars clean, immediately cover with sterilized lids, and seal with the band. Make sure that the lids are evenly set and that the bands are on correctly, but not too tight. They will continue to seal in the canning process.
Place the filled jars on a rack in a large deep saucepan. Add enough water to cover by at least 1 inch and place the pan over high heat. Bring to a boil, cover, and boil for 10 minutes.
Using tongs, remove the jars from the boiling water. Transfer to wire racks to cool.
Check the seals (the middle of the caps should have made a popping sound while cooling). The lids should stay depressed.
Store in a cool, dark spot for up to 1 year.
PICKLED RED ONIONS
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Uses: These can accompany almost any dish to add a little Texas two-step!
1 red onion
½ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Peel the onion and cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half lengthwise into very thin half-moon strips. Place in a small nonreactive bowl and set aside.
Combine the vinegar and sugar in a small nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for a couple of minutes, or just until the sugar has dissolved. Immediately remove from the heat and stir in a pinch of salt.
Pour the hot vinegar mixture over the onions, gently stirring to blend. Cover and refrigerate for no less than 8 hours, but no more than 12.
Drain well and keep chilled until ready to use, or for up to 2 weeks in the fridge.
BREAD-AND-BUTTER JALAPEÑO CHILES
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
Uses: A sweet, spicy, addictive addition to sandwiches, salads, and the picnic table.
3 cups distilled white vinegar
10 garlic cloves
5 bay leaves
1 bunch fresh marjoram
2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons mustard seeds
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
2 teaspoons celery seeds
1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
4 pounds jalapeño chiles, stemmed and cut crosswise into thin slices
2 pounds onions, cut crosswise into thin slices
Combine the vinegar with the garlic, bay leaves, marjoram, sugar, salt, mustard seeds, turmeric, celery seeds, and ginger in a large nonreactive saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil.
Add the chiles and onions, cover, and return to a boil.
Immediately remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 12 hours or overnight.
Transfer to a sterilized container, cover, and refrigerate for as long as you like. These will keep almost indefinitely but are mighty good, so they might only last a week or so.
IT’S NOT A BIG “DILL” HORSERADISH PICKLES
MAKES 5 QUARTS
Uses: These are my all-time favorite pickles, but watch out, they are addictive and will disappear quicker than you can make them.
40 small pickling cucumbers
1¾ cups distilled white vinegar
1¼ cups sugar
1 teaspoon pickling spices
7 cups cold water
15 fresh dill sprigs
10 garlic cloves, peeled
10 large strips fresh horseradish root
5 tablespoons pickling salt
Soak the cucumbers in ice-cold water to cover for 2 to 3 hours.
Combine the vinegar, sugar, and pickling spices in a large nonreactive saucepan. Add the 7 cups of cold water and place over high heat. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, or until the sugar has dissolved. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer while you complete the recipe.
Drain the cucumbers and, using a small, sharp knife, trim the ends and make a slit in the skin of each one so that the brine can soak in.
Place 3 sprigs of the dill, 2 cloves of the garlic, 2 strips of the horseradish, and 1 tablespoon of pickling salt in each of 5 sterilized 1-quart canning jars.
Pack 8 cucumbers (or to fit) into each jar.
Pour the hot brine into each jar, taking care that the cucumbers are completely covered. Wipe the edges of the jars clean, immediately cover with sterilized lids, and seal with the band. Make sure that the lids are evenly set and the bands are on correctly, but not too tight. They will continue to seal in the canning process.
Place the filled jars on a rack in a large deep saucepan. Add enough water to cover by at least 1 inch and place over high heat. Bring to a boil, cover, and boil for 10 minutes.
Using tongs, remove the jars from the boiling water. Transfer to wire racks to cool.
Check the seals (the middle of the caps should have made a popping sound while cooling). The lids should stay depressed.
Store in a cool, dark spot for up to 1 year.
MEXICAN RELISH
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: Can be used as a stand-alone salad or as an accompaniment to grilled meats, poultry, or fish to add a little heat and spice.
1 cup corn kernels, cut from 2 ears of grilled corn (see here)
½ cup cooked black beans
½ cup small-dice mango
½ cup small-dice peeled and seeded tomato
¼ cup small-dice red bell pepper
¼ cup small-dice red onion
1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Pinch smoked paprika
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Combine the corn with the beans, mango, tomato, bell pepper, onion, and chile in a medium bowl. Stir in the olive oil and lime juice. Season with paprika and salt and pepper to taste.
Serve as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
JALAPEÑO-PEACH CHUTNEY
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Uses: A summertime favorite garnish for almost anything off the grill.
5 ripe peaches, peeled and pitted
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Cut 3 of the peaches into ½-inch dice and transfer to a medium bowl. Plan on using these immediately, as peaches discolor as they sit. Or add a touch of fresh lemon juice, which will keep them from doing so.
Put the remaining 2 peaches in a food processor fitted with the metal blade and process to a smooth puree. Scrape the puree into a small nonreactive saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir in the chile, ginger, sugar, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and cinnamon and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 6 minutes, or until thickened.
Stir in the diced peaches and cook for an additional 3 minutes, or until heated through. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
When cool, use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
PEAR CHUTNEY
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Uses: A great fall/winter chutney to accompany grills and roasts.
Juice of 1 lemon
5 ripe Bosc pears, peeled and cored
1 tablespoon peeled and finely diced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Acidulate a bowl of cold water with the juice of 1 lemon. Cut 3 of the pears into medium dice. Place in the bowl and set aside.
Chop the remaining 2 pears, transfer to a blender, and process to a smooth puree.
Transfer the pear puree to a medium saucepan. Stir in the ginger, sugar, the 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and cinnamon and place over medium heat. Cook the puree, stirring occasionally, for about 6 minutes, or until quite thick.
Drain the diced pears and add them to the pureed mixture. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until very hot.
Remove from the heat and serve as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.