CIDER-BRAISED BACON

SERVES 4

Rather than use prepared smoked bacons in some of my dishes, I go back to the old days and make my own “bacon.” Cider braising adds the sweetness of fruitwood smoking and turns fatty pork belly into a delicious treat. The braising liquid can be strained and used as a rich stock for cooking beans or making soups or gravies.

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds center-cut pork belly

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup peeled and chopped Granny Smith apples

1 cup chopped onions

1 cup chopped celery

½ cup chopped carrot

1 cup white wine

2 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

4 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

2 cups apple cider

Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over high heat.

Season the pork belly with salt and pepper and when the oil is very hot but not smoking, place the pork belly in the pan. Sear for 4 minutes, or until a golden crust forms.

Turn the pork belly and add the garlic, apple, onion, celery, and carrot and cook for 4 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to color.

Add the wine, thyme, and bay leaf and continue to cook for about 3 minutes, or until almost all of the liquid has evaporated.

Stir in the stock and cider and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat, cover, and cook at a gentle simmer for 2½ hours, or until the pork is fork-tender. Check occasionally to make sure that there is enough liquid to cover the pork belly in the pan. If not, add more stock.

Using tongs, transfer the cider-braised bacon to the prepared baking sheet. Place a sheet of parchment paper on top of the bacon. Place another pan on top of the parchment paper–covered bacon and then place a weight (a heavy frying pan works well) directly on top of the bacon to press it down. Refrigerate for 12 hours.

Use as directed in a specific recipe, or tightly wrap and store, refrigerated, for up to 5 days.

 

CAMPFIRE BARBECUE BEANS

SERVES 4 TO 6

The deep, rich flavor of these beans will take you straight outdoors, with a tin plate on your lap. This is a true Texas side dish—smoky, spicy, and complex, yet simple to pull together. It’s a terrific picnic, barbecue, or party dish!

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup diced smoked bacon

½ cup small-dice onion

¼ cup seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup cooked pinto beans

1 cup cooked white beans

1 cup cooked black beans

1 cup cooked red beans

2 cups Texas-Style Barbecue Sauce (here) or your favorite barbecue sauce

2 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

1 bay leaf

Salt

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and sauté for about 3 minutes, or until golden. Stir in the onion, chile, and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the black pepper, sage, thyme, cumin, and red pepper flakes and stir to blend. Add the pinto, white, black, and red beans along with the barbecue sauce, stock, and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat and cook at a simmer for 45 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture is very thick. Taste and, if necessary, season with salt. Remove and discard the bay leaf.

Serve warm as directed in a specific recipe, or as a side dish for any grilled meat, game, poultry, or fish.

 

BAKED CHUCK WAGON BLACK BEANS

SERVES 4 TO 6

This is a version of classic baked beans. It has many of the traditional flavors, but the black beans add their own subtle twist, as does the veal demi-glace. I know that the chuck wagon cook didn’t have any demi-glace, but I just love the richness that it gives to the finished dish.

4 cups cooked black beans, well drained

1 large onion, finely chopped

1½ cups ketchup

1¼ cups packed brown sugar

¼ cup molasses

1 tablespoon prepared yellow mustard

1 tablespoon sweet pickle juice

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

¼ pound thickly sliced smoked bacon

1 cup veal demi-glace (see Note)

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Combine the beans with the onion, ketchup, brown sugar, molasses, mustard, pickle juice, and vinegar in a 2-quart casserole. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Crisscross the bacon strips over the top of the beans. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, transfer to the preheated oven, and bake for 1 hour.

Remove the foil from the beans and continue to bake for another 30 minutes.

Remove from the oven. Lift the bacon from the beans and coarsely chop it. Return the chopped bacon to the beans along with the demi-glace, and stir to blend well. Serve warm.

NOTE: Veal demi-glace, a rich reduction of veal stock, is available from fine butchers, at specialty food stores, and online.

MASHED BLACK BEANS

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

Mashed black beans work well as a side dish, a filling for burritos or enchiladas, a topping for tostadas, or a dip for chips. They are a terrific multipurpose staple to keep on hand.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 slices hickory-smoked bacon, cut into small pieces

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 small onion, chopped

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

4 cups cooked black beans (see here), well drained

6 cups rich chicken or ham stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

Fresh lime juice

Salt

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the bacon and fry for about 4 minutes, or until most of the fat has rendered out. Add the garlic, onion, and chile and continue to cook, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes, or until softened slightly.

Stir in the beans, add the stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 1 hour, or until the liquid cooks down enough to just barely cover the beans. If the liquid cooks down too quickly—that is, before the beans are mushy and well flavored—add additional stock or water, a bit at a time.

Transfer the beans to a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process, using quick on-and-off turns, until they are a chunky paste. Scrape from the processor into a clean container (or pan) and season to taste with lime juice and salt.

Use as directed in a specific recipe, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

 

BRAZOS RIVER BEANS and TOMATOES

SERVES 4

My friend Angela Murry comes from Seymour, Texas, where her family still lives. Seymour is a spit of a town between Wichita Falls and Lubbock, a friendly community of ranchers and farmers. Angela grew up big and strong on this family favorite, which she introduced to our Dallas backyard barbecues.

By the way, Seymour is smack in the middle of bountiful hunting country, so people from all over the world come to take advantage of the great availability of game.

3 cups cooked brown beans

2 cups peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes

1 cup chopped onions

2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño chile

2 cups favorite barbecue sauce

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons chile powder

1 teaspoon prepared yellow mustard

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Combine the beans, tomatoes, onions, and chile in a large bowl. Stir in the barbecue sauce, brown sugar, Worcestershire, chile powder, and mustard. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pour the mixture into a 2-quart casserole. Cover, place in the preheated oven, and bake for 45 minutes.

Uncover and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Serve hot from the oven.

 

SWEET CORN CREAM SUCCOTASH

SERVES 4 TO 6

This is a rich and delicious way to get your children to eat their veggies. Best made in summer when everything is at its prime, succotash is a wonderful side dish at a barbecue or picnic alongside a grilled steak or half a chicken.

3 tablespoons corn oil

3 cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)

2 shallots, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon ground coriander

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup small-dice red onion

½ cup small-dice carrots

½ cup fresh English peas

½ cup small-dice red bell pepper

½ cup small-dice yellow bell pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Heat 1 tablespoon of the corn oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add 2 cups of the corn along with the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and coriander and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer for 7 minutes, or until thickened.

Remove from the heat and pour into a blender. Holding the lid down with a folded kitchen towel to prevent a steam explosion, process to a smooth puree.

Scrape the corn cream into a clean saucepan and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons corn oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the remaining 1 cup corn along with the onion, carrots, peas, red and yellow bell pepper, and thyme and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender.

Stir in 1 cup of the reserved corn cream. Taste and, if necessary, add additional salt and black pepper. Bring to a simmer and simmer for 4 minutes.

Serve as is, or as directed in a specific recipe.

 

BOURBON-JALAPEÑO CREAMED CORN

SERVES 4 TO 6

This rich and delicious dish is a far cry from canned creamed corn. It is, of course, best made with fresh corn, but in a pinch, thawed, frozen corn can be used. It is one of my most popular corn-based dishes and is particularly suited to holiday entertaining.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large shallot, minced

4 cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)

1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

2 tablespoons Jim Beam bourbon

1 cup heavy cream

Salt

Freshly cracked pepper

Fresh lime juice

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes, or just until the shallot has sweat its liquid.

Add the corn and chile and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes.

Carefully add the bourbon and, tipping the pan slightly, allow the alcohol to catch fire. Lift the pan from the heat and let the flame die down. Lower the heat and cook for 2 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced slightly.

Stir in the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook at a gentle simmer for 6 minutes, or until very thick.

Remove from the heat and add lime juice as desired. Taste and, if necessary, season with additional salt and pepper. Serve hot.

MEXICAN CORN GRATIN

SERVES 4

This is a slightly different take on creamed corn, but a really terrific one. An amazing side dish, this can be served with grilled or roasted meats, or even as an accompaniment to everyday tacos, burritos, and fajitas.

Butter, for greasing the dish

2 cups cooked corn kernels

½ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce

1 teaspoon Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)

Fresh lime juice

Salt

2 tablespoons crumbled Cotija cheese

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Lightly butter a 1-quart casserole. Set aside.

Combine the corn with the mayonnaise, chile, Sriracha, spice blend, and lime juice and salt to taste in a medium bowl and stir to blend well.

Pour the corn mixture into the prepared casserole and sprinkle the cheese over the top. Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and bubbling.

Remove from the oven and serve hot.

 

CREAMY CORNBREAD PUDDING

SERVES 4 TO 6

All kinds of savory puddings are popular Texas side dishes. This one is a terrific make-ahead dish that works well with grilled or barbecued meat and poultry. I have to warn you, this is totally addictive. If I take one bite, I can’t rest till I’ve eaten the whole dish. Put this together the day before and store, tightly covered and refrigerated, and then bake just before serving.

Butter, for greasing the dish

4 cups crumbled Iron-Skillet Cornbread (here)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)

1 shallot, minced

¼ cup minced scallions

1 tablespoon mashed Roasted Garlic (here)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

1 teaspoon Tabasco Chipotle sauce

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Lightly coat the interior of a 2-quart baking dish with butter. Set aside.

Place the cornbread in a large bowl. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the corn and sauté for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and scrape the corn into the cornbread.

Add the shallot, scallions, roasted garlic, and thyme to the cornbread mix and stir to blend well. Stir in the cream, maple syrup, and Tabasco Chipotle and season to taste with salt and pepper. Scrape the cornbread mixture into the prepared baking dish.

Transfer to the preheated oven and bake the pudding for about 20 minutes, or until cooked through and golden brown and crusty on top.

Remove from the oven and serve hot.

 

SWEET CORN-SAGE PAN STUFFING

SERVES 4

When time doesn’t allow for a full-blown stuffing for a bird, this is a quick and easy way to bring a tasty stuffing to the table. It is also a great side dish for game or game birds.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1¼ cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

1 cup crumbled Iron-Skillet Cornbread (here) or your favorite cornbread

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

Salt

Freshly cracked pepper

Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and chile and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the corn and sage and continue to cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the cornbread and stir to blend well. Add the cream and stock and continue to cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until the cream has reduced and begins to coat the corn. Season to taste with salt and cracked pepper and serve.

JALAPEÑO-CORNBREAD STUFFING

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS

This is my go-to stuffing for game birds. It carries a little bit of tradition with the cornbread and a little Texas style with the chile and garlic. It offers just enough zest to balance the delicacy of the birds. You can double or even triple the recipe to make a terrific party side dish.

2 cups crumbled Iron-Skillet Cornbread (here) or your favorite cornbread

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1 tablespoon minced shallot

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon chopped Roasted Garlic (here)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon pure maple syrup

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Place the cornbread in a medium bowl. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the chile and shallot and sauté for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and scrape into the cornbread.

Add the cream, stock, garlic, thyme, and maple syrup and stir to thoroughly combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Use as directed in a specific recipe, or use as a side dish. To use as a side dish, transfer to a small buttered casserole and bake in a preheated 350ºF oven for about 20 minutes, or until cooked through and golden brown on top.

 

SMOKED VEGETABLE DRESSING

SERVES 4

Rather than just sautéing the aromatic vegetables usually found in a stuffing, I smoke them to give a real campfire taste to the finished dish. This dressing is a terrific side dish for game and game birds.

2 onions, cut into medium dice

2 celery stalks, trimmed and cut into medium dice

2 carrots, trimmed and cut into medium dice

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, membranes removed, and cut into medium dice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

3 cups crumbled Iron-Skillet Cornbread (here) or your favorite cornbread

2 cups medium-dice white bread

3 to 4 cups rich chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

Salt

Prepare a smoker to cold-smoke (see here).

Place the onions, celery, carrots, and bell pepper into the prepared smoker and cold-smoke for 20 minutes.

Remove the vegetables from the smoker and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the smoked vegetables and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Stir in the sage and thyme and cook for another minute.

Add the cornbread and white bread and stir to combine. Stirring constantly, slowly add the stock, adding just enough stock to make a moist but not wet dressing. Cook, stirring, just until the mixture is hot. Season to taste with salt.

Use as directed in a specific recipe or as you desire.

JALAPEÑO GRITS

SERVES 4

Breakfast, lunch, or dinner, Texans love grits. This combination of flavors takes them from the breakfast table to a special dinner. We like them spicy, but you can use as little chile as suits your taste.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup diced onions

1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

6 cups chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

2 cups Homestead Gristmill, or other high-quality white grits (see sidebar, here)

1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan (remember, grits expand!) over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté for 3 minutes, or until translucent. Stir in the chile, garlic, and thyme and stir until well blended.

Add the stock and bring to a boil. Boil, stirring constantly, while slowly adding the grits. When all of the grits have been added, reduce the heat and cook, stirring frequently, at a gentle simmer for about 25 minutes, or until thick and soft.

Remove the grits from the heat and stir in the Tabasco and paprika. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

 

CRISPY SWEET ONION RINGS

SERVES 4

These are so, so delicious you can feast on them, alone. However, good sense will have them served as a side dish or a component of a more complex main course. We love our Texas Shiner Bock beer, but any fine-quality dark lager will work.

Vegetable oil, for frying

2 Texas sweet onions (see sidebar below), peeled and cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick rings

1 cup tempura flour

1 cup cornmeal

1 bottle Shiner Bock beer

Salt

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.

Pull the onion slices into rings and set aside.

Combine the tempura flour and cornmeal in a medium bowl. Whisk in the beer to just form a loose batter. If too thick, add cold water, a tablespoon at a time.

When the oil has reached the desired temperature, begin dipping the onion rings, one piece at a time, into the batter, allowing excess batter to drip off. Carefully drop the rings into the hot oil and fry for about 30 seconds, or until the bottoms have browned. Turn gently, so you don’t break the crust, and fry for another 30 seconds, or until golden brown on all sides.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rings to a double layer of paper towels to drain. Continue making onion rings until you have fried and drained all the rings. Season with salt and serve immediately.

NOTE: Tempura flour is a blended flour, usually wheat flour mixed with some type of leavener, such as baking powder. It is available from Asian markets, specialty food stores, and well-stocked supermarkets.

Texas Sweet Onions

Texas sweet onions, the state’s leading vegetable crop, have a long and fascinating history. The Bermuda onion was first introduced into South Texas in 1898 when a packet of seed was planted near the town of Cotulla. The resulting onions were shipped off to Wisconsin, where their sweetness was so eagerly endorsed that farmers quickly increased production. By 1946, more than ten thousand freight-car loads of sweet onions were shipping annually. Originally, the yellow and white Bermuda and the Crystal Wax onions were the predominant crops. As hybridization occurred, many other types were brought into the mix. The Texas-bred Granex is now a worldwide favorite, planted under many different names, including the well-known Georgia Vidalia. Most, if not all, of these sweet onions are grown from Texas transplants. A favorite Texas saying is “A Lone Star sweet onion is so sweet you can eat it like an apple.”

 

CRISPY TOBACCO ONIONS

SERVES 4

I got this recipe from a customer more than twenty-five years ago when he wanted real thin and crisp onion rings. The name came about because once fried, the onions get all brown and crinkly and look just like loose tobacco.

Although I usually serve these sweet, spicy onions as part of a main dish, they could easily be used to add zest to a great roast beef sandwich, or as a garnish for plain grilled meat or seafood. Just take care that you don’t burn the onions; you want them to be caramel-like and slightly sweet.

Vegetable oil, for frying

1 Spanish onion, peeled and cut crosswise into very thin rings

3 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Flour Mixture (here)

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over high heat until it registers 350°F on a candy thermometer.

Carefully pull the onion slices apart into rings and set aside.

Combine the all-purpose flour and spice flour mixture in a resealable plastic bag. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Working with a few at a time, place the onion rings in the flour mixture in the bag and shake gently to coat. Remove from the bag and shake off excess flour.

When the oil has reached the desired temperature, gently place the floured rings into the hot oil, a few at a time. Don’t crowd the fryer or the onion rings will stick together. Fry for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown.

Using a slotted spoon, lift the onions from the oil and transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain. Serve warm.

“LOADED” MASHED POTATOES

SERVES 4

I like to think of these potatoes as twice-baked potatoes without the skin. There is nothing better than these rich, creamy potatoes served alongside a sizzling steak right off the grill. Only in Texas would we gild the lily with all of this richness. When you need just plain ole mashies, stop before adding the cheese and sour cream. They will still be pretty darned good.

6 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

¼ cup melted unsalted butter

About 2 cups heavy cream, warmed

Salt

¼ cup grated white cheddar cheese

¼ cup sour cream

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives

Freshly ground pepper

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan with cold water to cover by at least 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for about 25 minutes, or until very tender. Remove from the heat and drain well.

Transfer the well-drained potatoes to a large bowl and either mash by hand (if you don’t mind a few lumps) or beat with a handheld electric mixer until smooth. If you are really looking for perfect mashed potatoes, push the drained potatoes through a ricer and then beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and silky.

While the potatoes are still hot, beat in the butter. When the butter has been incorporated, begin gradually beating in the cream. Go slowly, as you may not need all of the cream to achieve the perfect consistency; the potatoes should be thick and fluffy, not wet and runny. Season to taste with salt.

Stir the cheese and sour cream into the mashed potatoes and beat to blend well. Stir in the chives and season with additional salt and pepper. Serve hot.

 

AVOCADO FRIES

SERVES 4

These unusual “fries” came about when I wanted to add French fries to a dish but didn’t feel they were just the right flavor, and I wanted something a bit healthier. So divine inspiration hit, and we decided to try avocados with their healthy oil. You need avocados that are firm but ready to eat. They must be frozen before frying, or they will fall apart in the hot oil.

These “fries” are extra-delicious dipped in Queso Asadero (here).

4 ripe but firm avocados

4 cups packaged tempura batter, prepared according to manufacturer’s directions (see Note)

4 cups fine bread crumbs

Vegetable oil, for frying

Salt

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Using a sharp knife, cut each avocado lengthwise into 8 wedges of equal size. Carefully peel off and discard the skins and pits.

Mix the tempura batter in a medium bowl, and put the bread crumbs in a large shallow container.

Working with one piece at a time, dip each avocado wedge into the batter and then gently roll in the bread crumbs to evenly coat. As coated, place each wedge on the prepared baking sheet. When all of the wedges have been coated, transfer the baking sheet to the freezer until ready to fry.

When ready to serve, heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.

Remove the coated avocado wedges from the freezer. Add the wedges to the hot oil, a few at a time, and fry for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Season with salt and serve immediately.

NOTE: Tempura batter mixes are available at Japanese markets, specialty food stores, and most supermarkets in dry form.

 

QUESO FRESCO-CORN WHIPPED POTATOES

SERVES 4 TO 6

These are really, really Texas-style mashed potatoes overflowing with four-star flavor. The smooth mashed potatoes—which, by the way, are delicious on their own—mixed with fresh corn, a hint of garlic, and slightly salty cheese, are terrific with almost any beef but match up with a big Texas steak or short ribs particularly well.

6 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

¼ cup melted unsalted butter

About 2 cups heavy cream, warmed

Salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 shallot, minced

1¼ cups fresh corn kernels (or thawed frozen)

3 ounces queso fresco or Cotija cheese

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan with cold water to cover by about 2 inches and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for about 25 minutes, or until very tender. Remove from the heat and drain well.

Transfer the potatoes to a large warm bowl and either mash by hand (if you like lumpy potatoes) or use a handheld electric mixer and beat until smooth. If you are really “into” your mashed potatoes, you can push them through a ricer for a very smooth, even consistency.

Beat in the melted butter and then begin to gradually beat in the cream; you may not need all of the cream, so watch the consistency carefully. The potatoes should be thick and fluffy, not wet and runny. Season to taste with salt. Set aside and keep warm.

Melt the 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add the shallot and continue to sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the corn and continue to sauté for 2 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and scrape the mixture into the warm mashed potatoes.

Fold in the cheese until well blended. Taste and, if necessary, season with additional salt. Serve hot.

 

SWEET POTATO RAJAS

SERVES 4 TO 6

In traditional Mexican cooking, rajas are roasted poblano chile strips cooked with onion and served over white rice. They are also used as an accompaniment to grilled meats, or mixed with potatoes or tomatoes as a side dish. This is just a slight variation on the classic, and a Texas favorite it is.

1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into thick wedges

3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

Salt

2 medium roasted poblano chiles, stemmed, peeled, seeded, and cut lengthwise into ¼-inch strips

1 small onion, cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices, then separated into rings

¼ loosely packed cup fresh cilantro leaves

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Generously butter a 10-inch pie plate.

Arrange the sweet potatoes in an even layer in the prepared dish. Using a pastry brush and 1½ tablespoons of the melted butter, lightly coat the potatoes. Season with salt.

Transfer the dish to the preheated oven and bake the potatoes for about 30 minutes, or until tender and just beginning to brown.

Lower the oven temperature to 350ºF.

Combine the chiles with the onion rings in a medium bowl. Add the remaining 1½ tablespoons melted butter and toss to coat. Scatter the chiles and onions over the top of the hot sweet potatoes.

Return the potatoes to the oven and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the onions are cooked through and beginning to brown.

Remove from the oven and fold in the cilantro. Serve hot.

 

SWEET POTATO SPOONBREAD

MAKES 12 SPOONBREADS

I think that I’ve been eating some version of spoonbread my whole life. It is a Southern favorite, and there is even an annual Spoonbread Festival held in Berea, Kentucky, my home state. The history of spoonbread is a little vague, but it is thought that its pudding-like texture has evolved from a very basic cornmeal mixture introduced to white settlers by Native Americans. The usual is a simple mix of cornmeal and eggs, but here we add a little heart of Texas with the sweet potato and chile.

2 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon seeded and minced jalapeño chile

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup sweet potato puree

½ cup grated jalapeño Jack cheese

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Salt

4 large eggs, separated

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Generously coat the cups of a 12-cup muffin pan with butter or nonstick vegetable spray. Set aside.

Combine the milk and the chile in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Whisking constantly, immediately add the cornmeal in a slow, steady stream. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until very thick.

Remove from the heat and fold in the sweet potato puree, cheese, and butter. Season to taste with salt and mix until well blended. Set aside to cool.

When cool, place the egg yolks in a small bowl and whisk to lighten. Stir the yolks into the cooled cornmeal mixture, taking care that they are completely incorporated into the batter.

Place the egg whites in a medium bowl and, using a handheld electric mixer, beat until stiff peaks form.

Fold the beaten egg whites into the cornmeal mixture just until barely blended.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared muffin pan. Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the center of the spoonbreads comes out clean.

Remove from the oven and serve piping hot.

TANGLE OF GREENS

SERVES 4

This is about as simple and delicious as it gets! Greens, greens, and more greens—the addition of arugula here brings a contemporary taste to an otherwise Texas standard. You could combine almost any green you like to the mix—collard, mustard, dandelion—you name it, you can cook it up!

1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ cup cooked, small-dice smoked bacon

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 packed cups spinach leaves

1 packed cup arugula leaves

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bacon, shallot, and garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add the spinach and arugula leaves, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss to coat with the seasoned oil. Cook, tossing frequently, for a couple of minutes, or just until the greens have barely wilted.

Remove from the heat and serve immediately.

 

GUN BARREL CITY COLLARD GREENS

SERVES 4 TO 6

Although I don’t think many greens are grown along the shores of Cedar Creek Lake, around which the town of Gun Barrel City has been established, I liked the name so much that I decided to honor the town with this classic Texas side dish. Although the name evokes the Wild West, Gun Barrel City is a young town with lots of friendly folks located only about 55 miles southeast of Dallas. You don’t need a shotgun to settle there!

1 cup chopped smoked bacon

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 cup diced onion

2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño chile

¼ cup malt vinegar

¼ cup pure maple syrup

2 bunches collard greens, well washed, large stems removed, roughly chopped

2 cups ham or chicken stock or nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

Tabasco sauce

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Put the bacon in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and fry, stirring frequently, for about 8 minutes, or until well browned. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the onion and chile and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Add the vinegar and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half. Stir in the syrup and continue to cook for 1 minute.

Add the greens along with the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer for about 1 hour, or until the greens are fork-tender; there should be very little liquid left in the pan. Season with Tabasco and salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

CRISPY TEXAS OKRA

SERVES 4 TO 6

Could you combine any two more specific regional tastes than Southern okra and Texas barbecue? I can guarantee that even the most die-hard okra haters will ask for seconds when you serve these crispy, crunchy little guys.

½ cup cornmeal

½ cup tempura flour (see Note, here)

2 teaspoons Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)

½ cup buttermilk

Vegetable oil, for frying

2 pounds okra, stems removed and cut in half lengthwise

Combine the cornmeal, tempura flour, and spice mix in a medium bowl.

Place the buttermilk in a separate small bowl.

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over medium-high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.

Working with one piece at a time, dip the okra into the buttermilk and then into the cornmeal mixture to evenly coat.

When the oil has reached the desired temperature, carefully drop the okra into the hot oil and fry for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried okra to a double layer of paper towels to drain. Serve immediately.

 

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES

SERVES 4

I believe that green tomatoes have been Texas-fried for generations, but when I tried to find their history, I couldn’t find one link to Texas cooks. In fact, some say that the recipe comes from Jewish cookbooks of the late 1800s. But in my opinion, since tomatoes were first grown in home gardens, I bet that home cooks were cooking with green tomatoes every year that there was a bounty crop. Farmers’ wives whom I know tell me that their mamas were making fried green tomatoes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner just as their grandmas had done before them. I guess it really doesn’t matter where the recipe started; Texas cooks have certainly embraced it—me included. If you really want the best old-fashioned taste, smother them in cream gravy… uhm.

Vegetable oil, for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup Fearing’s Barbecue Spice Blend (here)

4 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten

2 tablespoons buttermilk

1½ cups bread crumbs

4 green tomatoes, cored and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.

While the oil is heating, place 3 shallow bowls in a line on the countertop. Combine the flour and spice in the first bowl. Whisk the eggs and buttermilk together in the second bowl. Put the bread crumbs in the third bowl.

Generously season both sides of the tomato slices with salt and pepper. Working with one slice at a time, coat the tomatoes in the flour mixture, shaking off excess. Dip the flour-coated slice into the eggs, and finally into the bread crumbs. Take care that all sides are well coated.

When the oil has reached the desired temperature, working with a few slices at a time, place the coated tomatoes in the hot oil and fry for about 3 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

Using a slotted spoon or spatula, lift the tomatoes from the oil and transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain.

Serve warm.

ALL-DAY GREEN BEANS

SERVES 4 TO 6

Home cooks have been making all-day green beans for generations. This method of cooking has almost been lost, with chefs, particularly, who are cooking their veggies until crisp-tender. I love these almost mushy beans—my grandma cooked them this way, my mom cooked them this way, and I still do, at home and at the restaurant.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ pound diced, smoked bacon

1 packed cup sliced onions

2 pounds green beans, trimmed

1 quart chicken stock

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, while stirring, for 3 minutes, or until the bacon starts to brown.

Add the onions and cook for 1 minute. Add the green beans and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper and cook for at least 1 hour, or all day until the dinner bell rings!

 

ROASTED ASPARAGUS with SMOKED TEXAS PECANS

SERVES 4

Although you don’t think of asparagus when you think of Texas, I can tell you that terrific asparagus is grown in Central Texas, where the cooler climate makes it very happy. The simple garnish of cold-smoked pecans and shallots accents the acidity of the asparagus in a perfect way.

1 pound medium asparagus, trimmed of tough ends

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

¼ cup cold-smoked pecan pieces (see sidebar, here)

2 tablespoons minced shallots

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Combine the asparagus with the oil and season with the salt and pepper.

Lay the seasoned asparagus out on a baking pan large enough to hold it in a single layer. Transfer to the preheated oven and roast for 8 minutes.

Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the pecans and shallots. Serve immediately.

PAULA’S GOAT CHEESE CROQUETTES

MAKES 12 CROQUETTES

Paula Lambert, owner of the Mozzarella Company in Dallas, was a pioneer in artisanal cheese making in Texas. I was her first customer when I was at the Mansion on Turtle Creek in 1981, and I have been using her cheeses ever since. Paula’s goat cheese is, to me, perfection. It’s not too tart but has a subtle rich flavor that shines in these croquettes. They are a wonderful accent to all kinds of salads.

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, beaten

½ cup bread crumbs

1 pound soft goat cheese, preferably from the Mozzarella Company

Vegetable oil, for frying

Salt

Place 3 shallow bowls in a line on the countertop. Place the flour in the first bowl, the eggs in the second, and the bread crumbs in the third.

Using a small ice cream scoop or melon baller, form 12 goat cheese balls.

Roll the cheese balls in the flour, shaking off any excess. Then roll each floured ball in the eggs, taking care that the entire surface is coated. If any surface is uncovered, the cheese will ooze out during frying, making the ball unusable. Finally, roll the balls in the bread crumbs, making sure that the entire surface is well covered.

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer over high heat until it registers 350ºF on a candy thermometer.

When the oil has reached the desired temperature, gently ease the cheese balls into the hot oil, making sure not to crowd the pan. Fry for about 1 minute, or until golden brown.

Transfer to a double layer of paper towels to drain and season with salt. Serve immediately.