CONCEPT 33
Bloom Spices to Boost Their Flavor
Spices are a mystery to many American home cooks. We use them in baking recipes like gingerbread but not so much in savory cooking, with the exception of barbecuing (where spice rubs are essential) and some regional cuisines (such as Tex-Mex or Cajun). Part of the problem is how we buy spices (those old jars of ground spices in your pantry probably aren’t very good) and part of the problem is not understanding how spices actually work.
HOW THE SCIENCE WORKS
Spices are generally berries, plant seeds, roots, or bark. When dried, their flavor intensifies, and they can be sold in “whole” form or in powders (called ground spices). Cloves, for example, are dried flower buds. They can be bought whole—the pungent little buds are often used to flavor roasts or mulled drinks. They can also be bought ground and added to spice cakes or cookies.
What unites all spices is their common use as flavoring agents. They have been used in cooking for tens of thousands of years. But they were not viewed as simple ingredients alone: Spices have long been hot commodities, highly sought after and valued for their use in religious rituals and medicine, as well as cooking. The desire for more spices (both larger quantities and a greater variety) spurred a trade system that began in the Middle East around 2000 BC and expanded throughout the world.
But why do spices have so much flavor? The flavor of spices comes mainly from their aroma, which we detect from the volatile molecules they release into the air. Spices have a high proportion of these flavor molecules, which is why they are incredibly potent—in fact, spices in their naked form are almost impossible to ingest alone.
Most spices glean their flavors from a host of different flavor compounds, the mixture giving them character and complexity. Take black peppercorns. Their unique taste and aroma come from volatile oils called terpenes, which contribute notes of turpentine, clove, and citrus; and pyrazines, which provide earthy, roasty, green vegetable aromas. Peppercorns also contain the heat-bearing compound piperine, which provides that familiar sharp bite and has the added effect of perking up our tastebuds.
Spices generally fall into three categories: those with water-soluble flavor compounds, those with fat-soluble flavor compounds, and those that form new flavor molecules when exposed to dry heat alone. This means that flavors able to dissolve into water are better able to penetrate meat via brinerades (see concept 13), while those able to dissolve into fat can do much more in oil-based marinades (like the one used for Spanish-Style Garlic Shrimp). Other spices benefit simply from toasting in a dry skillet. (Click here for more on individual spices.) But what really makes a difference in the flavor (and intensity of flavor) of spices is the way we use heat.
We can directly apply heat to spices, as when we toast spices or when the spice rub applied to the outside of a cut of meat hits the grill. Toasting a spice whole brings its aromatic oils to the surface, contributing to a stronger, more complex aroma. Toasting certain spices like cumin and coriander also brings about Maillard reactions (see concept 2) between sugars and amino acids, producing potent flavor molecules such as pyrazines. We find it’s best to toast spices before grinding them, as grinding releases moisture and aromatic oils into the air, subsequently leaving the spice with less to give when toasted.
We can also cook spices in fat, a process called blooming. This works for spices that are fat-soluble and intensifies the flavors of both ground and whole spices. (We usually discard the pungent whole spices before the dish is served.) When we bloom spices, the fat-soluble flavor molecules are released from a solid state into solution form, where they mix and interact, thereby producing an even more complex flavor. Like most substances, these flavor molecules dissolve faster and to a greater extent in a hot solvent (such as fat or oil) than a cold one. But be careful: If the oil or butter is too hot, the spices can scorch.
WHEN SPICES ARE BLOOMED
IN HOT OIL When fat-soluble spices are heated in oil, many of their flavor compounds are released into the surrounding solution, heightening the flavors of both the spices and the oil.
In order to determine whether blooming spices and some herbs in oil (as opposed to just water) truly produces more flavorful results, we designed the following experiment: We steeped 50 grams of crushed red pepper flakes separately in 100 grams of canola oil and 100 grams of water, both held at a constant 200 degrees, for 20 minutes. We then strained out the pepper flakes and tasted the water and oil on white rice. We also sent samples of the water and oil to an independent lab to test for capsaicin content (the compound responsible for the heat in pepper flakes) using a technique called high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Finally, we repeated the test with thyme leaves and measured the concentration of their main flavor compound, thymol, to demonstrate the effect of oil blooming on woody herbs. We repeated this test three times.
THE RESULTS
First up, the taste results. For both the pepper flakes and thyme, the oil infusion was far more flavorful than the water sample when tasted on plain white rice. There was no contest, and the lab provided the numbers to prove it. The pepper flake–infused water registered an average of 1113 Scoville Heat Units (SHU), while the pepper-infused oil doubled that number at 2233 SHU. The results for thyme were even more dramatic: The water contained 19.4 parts per million (ppm) of thymol, a tenth as much as the thyme-infused oil with an average of 197 ppm of thymol.
THE TAKEAWAY
While we used some heavy science to quantify our experiment, the takeaway is a no-brainer. For more flavor, many spices (and some herbs) should be bloomed in oil. This requires no extra work. Simply add the spices (or herbs) to the fat in the pan before the liquid goes into the pot. For instance, when making chili, let the spices cook with the onions and garlic before adding the liquid, rather than adding the spices along with the liquid as many recipes do.
And what are some other ways we accentuate the flavor of spices? Grinding, for one. Buying whole spices and then grinding them ourselves keeps them fresher longer and intensifies their aroma and taste. If you buy already ground spices, be sure to replace them every year (whole spices retain their flavor for up to two years). In addition to blooming, we also toast spices in a dry pan. The heat brings the spice’s aromatic oils to the surface.
MEASURING FLAVOR COMPOUNDS WHEN SPICES ARE BLOOMED IN WATER VS. OIL
*Capsaicin was tested for using HPLC and reported in Scoville Heat Units (SHU).
**Thymol was tested for using HPLC and reported in parts per million (ppm).
SPICE BLOOMING AT WORK
CHILIS, CURRIES, DRY RUBS, AND MORE
Blooming spices before incorporating them into a dish is an easy step that helps to draw out maximum aroma, boosts flavor, and brings our finished dishes up to the next level. Here, we bloom spices in chili, curry, blackened fish, and pepper-crusted steaks.
SIMPLE BEEF CHILI WITH KIDNEY BEANS
SERVES 8 TO 10
Good choices for condiments include diced fresh tomatoes, diced avocado, sliced scallions, finely chopped red onion, minced fresh cilantro, sour cream, and/or shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese. If you are a fan of spicy food, consider using a little more of the red pepper flakes or cayenne—or both. The flavor of the chili improves with age; if possible, make it the day before you plan to serve it.
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2 |
tablespoons vegetable oil |
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2 |
onions, chopped fine |
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1 |
red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces |
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6 |
garlic cloves, minced |
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¼ |
cup chili powder |
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1 |
tablespoon ground cumin |
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2 |
teaspoons ground coriander |
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1 |
teaspoon red pepper flakes |
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1 |
teaspoon dried oregano |
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½ |
teaspoon cayenne pepper |
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2 |
pounds 85 percent lean ground beef |
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2 |
(15-ounce) cans red kidney beans, rinsed |
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1 |
(28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained with juice reserved |
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1 |
(28-ounce) can tomato puree |
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|
Salt |
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Lime wedges |
1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add onions, bell pepper, garlic, chili powder, cumin, coriander, pepper flakes, oregano, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and add half of beef. Cook, breaking up pieces with spoon, until no longer pink and just beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add remaining beef and cook, breaking up pieces with spoon, until no longer pink, 3 to 4 minutes.
2. Add beans, tomatoes, tomato puree, and ½ teaspoon salt; bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. Remove cover and continue to simmer for 1 hour longer, stirring occasionally (if chili begins to stick to bottom of pot, stir in ½ cup water and continue to simmer), until beef is tender and chili is dark, rich, and slightly thickened. Season with salt to taste. Serve with lime wedges and condiments, if desired. (Chili can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
BEEF CHILI WITH BACON AND BLACK BEANS
Cook 8 slices bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces, in Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring frequently, until browned, about 8 minutes. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat, leaving bacon in pot. Substitute bacon fat in Dutch oven for vegetable oil and canned black beans for canned kidney beans.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
With the goal of developing a no-fuss chili that would taste far better than the sum of its parts, we discovered that adding the chili powder to the pan with the aromatics boosted its potency. We enhanced the flavor with additional spices and chose beef without too much (or too little) fat. Cooking the chili with the lid on for half the simmering time resulted in a rich, thick consistency.
ADD SPICES EARLY Unlike our Ultimate Beef Chili recipe, this chili is the definition of simple. And to get great flavor from easily accessible ingredients, we have to take steps to get the most mileage from jarred spices. Many chili recipes call for the spices to be added after the beef has been browned, but we knew that sometimes ground spices taste better when they get direct contact with the cooking oil. We tested this by cooking three pots of chili—one with the ground spices added before the beef, one with the spices added after the beef, and a third in which we toasted the spices in a separate dry skillet and added them to the pot after the beef. The batch made with spices added after the beef tasted weak. The batch made with the spices toasted in a separate pan was better, but in this case toasting the spices subdued the flavor because some of the volatile flavor molecules vaporized. The clear favorite was the batch made with spices added directly to the pot before the meat. In fact, the best results come with the spices added at the outset of cooking to develop their fat-soluble flavors fully through the power of blooming.
HELP THE CHILI POWDER Commercial chili powder is typically 80 percent ground dried red chiles with the rest a mix of garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, ground cumin, and salt. To boost flavor, we increase the amount of chili powder from the typical recipe, add more cumin and oregano, and toss in some cayenne. The trio of aromatics—onions, red bell pepper, garlic—helps, too.
LEAN, BUT NOT TOO LEAN We tried using beef with different levels of fat for this chili. Pools of orange oil floated to the top of the chili made with ground chuck (80 percent lean beef). At the other end of the spectrum, the chili made with 90 percent lean beef was a tad bland—not bad, but not as full-flavored as the chili made with 85 percent lean beef, our final choice. Be sure not to overbrown the beef when you add it to the pot—it will get tough if you brown it too much. Just cook until it loses its raw pink color.
TWO TOMATOES We tried batches of chili made with water (too watery), chicken broth (too chicken-y and dull), beef broth (too metallic), wine (too acidic), and no liquid at all except for that in the tomatoes (beefy-tasting and by far the best). When we tried beer, we were surprised to find that it subdues that great beefy flavor. Tomato puree gives the chili body, and diced tomatoes give it heft.
DON’T WAIT ON BEANS Most chili recipes add beans toward the end of cooking, the idea being to let them heat through without causing them to fall apart. But this method often makes for beans that are bland orbs floating in a sea of highly flavorful chili. We prefer adding the beans along with the tomatoes. The more time the beans spend in the pot, the better they taste.
INDIAN CURRY WITH POTATOES, CAULIFLOWER, PEAS, AND CHICKPEAS
SERVES 4 TO 6
This curry is moderately spicy when made with one chile. For more heat, use the larger amount of chiles. For a mild curry, do not add the chile’s ribs and seeds. (For more on chiles, see concept 32.) The onions can be pulsed in a food processor. You can substitute 2 teaspoons of ground coriander, ½ teaspoon of pepper, ¼ teaspoon of ground cardamom, and ¼ teaspoon of ground cinnamon for the garam masala. In addition to the suggested condiments, serve with Simple Rice Pilaf and plain whole-milk yogurt.
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2 |
tablespoons sweet or mild curry powder |
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1½ |
teaspoons garam masala |
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1 |
(14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes |
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¼ |
cup vegetable oil |
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2 |
onions, chopped fine |
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12 |
ounces red potatoes, cut into ½-inch pieces |
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3 |
garlic cloves, minced |
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1 |
tablespoon grated fresh ginger |
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1–1½ |
serrano chiles, stemmed, seeds reserved, minced |
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1 |
tablespoon tomato paste |
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½ |
head cauliflower (1 pound), cored and cut into 1-inch florets |
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1 |
(15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed |
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1¼ |
cups water |
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Salt |
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1½ |
cups frozen peas |
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¼ |
cup heavy cream or coconut milk |
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CONDIMENTS |
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Onion Relish (recipe follows) |
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Cilantro-Mint Chutney (recipe follows) |
1. Toast curry powder and garam masala in small skillet over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until spices darken slightly and become fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl and set aside. Pulse tomatoes in food processor until coarsely chopped, 3 to 4 pulses.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized and potatoes are golden brown on edges, about 10 minutes. (Reduce heat to medium if onions darken too quickly.)
3. Reduce heat to medium. Clear center of pot and add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, ginger, serrano, and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add reserved toasted spices and cook, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring constantly, until spices coat florets, about 2 minutes longer.
4. Add tomatoes, chickpeas, water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Increase heat to medium-high and bring mixture to boil, scraping bottom of pot with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits. Cover and reduce heat to medium. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Stir in peas and cream and continue to cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Season with salt to taste, and serve immediately, passing condiments separately.
ONION RELISH
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
If using a regular yellow onion, increase the sugar to 1 teaspoon.
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1 |
Vidalia onion, diced fine |
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1 |
tablespoon lime juice |
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½ |
teaspoon sugar |
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½ |
teaspoon paprika |
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1⁄8 |
teaspoon salt |
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|
Pinch cayenne pepper |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl. (Relish can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
CILANTRO-MINT CHUTNEY
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
|
2 |
cups fresh cilantro leaves |
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1 |
cup fresh mint leaves |
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1⁄3 |
cup plain whole-milk yogurt |
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¼ |
cup finely chopped onion |
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1 |
tablespoon lime juice |
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1½ |
teaspoons sugar |
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½ |
teaspoon ground cumin |
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¼ |
teaspoon salt |
Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl halfway through. (Chutney can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Vegetable curries can be complicated affairs, with lengthy ingredient lists and fussy techniques meant to compensate for the lack of meat. We wanted a curry we could make on a weeknight in less than an hour—without sacrificing flavor or overloading the dish with spices. Toasting store-bought curry powder in a skillet turned it into a flavor powerhouse, and a few pinches of garam masala added even more spice flavor.
TOAST AND BLOOM We toast curry powder and garam masala—which includes such warm spices as black pepper, cinnamon, coriander, and cardamom—in a dry skillet to explode their flavors for this curry. Why is toasting so beneficial? When added to a simmering sauce, the spices can be heated to only 212 degrees. In a dry skillet, temperatures can exceed 500 degrees, heightening flavors exponentially. (But be aware that you can overdo the toasting and burn the spices.) Curry powder and garam masala likewise benefit from an initial dry toasting because the heat induces the formation of Maillard reaction products, which greatly boost flavor. (These reactions do not occur as readily when the spices are bloomed in oil.) Add the toasted spices to the pot with the onions and aromatics so that the spices can bloom even further in the added oil.
SUPERCHARGE THE BASE As the onions caramelize with the other ingredients, fond (flavorful dark bits) develops in the bottom of the pan, mimicking the phenomenon that occurs when browning meat. We add garlic, ginger, and a minced fresh chile for heat. Tomato paste, though inauthentic, adds sweetness, helps browning, and even gives us a meaty flavor (see concept 35).
BROWN THE POTATOES Potatoes can be bland. We like them oven-roasted but that takes time; we found we could brown them along with the onions. We wondered if we could intensify the flavor of the other vegetables as well. An Indian cooking method called bhuna involves sautéing the spices and main ingredients together to enhance and meld flavors. This technique works well with the cauliflower used in this recipe, helping to develop a richer, more complex flavor. This method also works with other sturdy vegetables, including green beans and eggplant.
ADD LIQUID A combination of water and pureed canned tomatoes, along with a splash of cream or coconut milk, allows the delicate vegetables and fragrant spices to shine.
GRILLED BLACKENED RED SNAPPER
SERVES 4
Striped bass, halibut, or grouper can be substituted for the snapper; if the fillets are thicker or thinner than ¾ inch, they will have slightly different cooking times. Serve the fish with lemon wedges or Rémoulade (recipe follows).
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2 |
tablespoons paprika |
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2 |
teaspoons onion powder |
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2 |
teaspoons garlic powder |
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¾ |
teaspoon ground coriander |
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¾ |
teaspoon salt |
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¼ |
teaspoon pepper |
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¼ |
teaspoon cayenne pepper |
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¼ |
teaspoon white pepper |
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3 |
tablespoons unsalted butter |
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4 |
(6- to 8-ounce) red snapper fillets, ¾ inch thick |
1. Combine paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, coriander, salt, pepper, cayenne, and white pepper in bowl. Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Stir in spice mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and spices turn dark rust color, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer mixture to pie plate and let cool to room temperature. Use fork to break up any large clumps.
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
3. Clean cooking grate, then repeatedly brush grate with well-oiled paper towels until black and glossy, 5 to 10 times.
4. Meanwhile, pat fillets dry with paper towels. Using sharp knife, make shallow diagonal slashes every inch along skin side of fish, being careful not to cut into flesh. Place fillets skin side up on large plate. Using your fingers, rub spice mixture in thin, even layer on top and sides of fish. Flip fillets over and repeat on other side (you should use all of spice mixture). Refrigerate until needed.
5. Place fish skin side down on grill (hot side if using charcoal) with fillets diagonal to grate. Cook until skin is very dark brown and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip fish and continue to cook until dark brown and beginning to flake and center is opaque but still moist, about 5 minutes longer. Serve.
RÉMOULADE
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE GRILLED BLACKENED RED SNAPPER
The rémoulade can be refrigerated for up to three days.
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½ |
cup mayonnaise |
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1½ |
teaspoons sweet pickle relish |
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1 |
teaspoon hot sauce |
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1 |
teaspoon lemon juice |
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1 |
teaspoon minced fresh parsley |
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½ |
teaspoon capers, rinsed |
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½ |
teaspoon Dijon mustard |
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1 |
small garlic clove, minced |
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Salt and pepper |
Pulse all ingredients in food processor until well combined but not smooth, about 10 pulses. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Blackened fish is usually prepared in a cast-iron skillet, but it can lead to a relentlessly smoky kitchen. We thought we’d solve this issue by throwing our fish on the grill, but this introduced a host of new challenges, including curled fillets that stuck to the grill and spices that tasted raw and harsh. Scoring the skin of our fish, cleaning our grill thoroughly, and creating a rich spice rub gives us a well-cooked red snapper dish with a great crust and the proper depth and richness of flavor.
MAKE BLACKENING RUB After sampling six store-bought Cajun spice rubs, we found that mixing our own delivers superior results. We add coriander, which can take the heat and gives the spice rub a bright floral note. We also use garlic and onion powders, and sweet paprika, cayenne pepper, black pepper, white pepper, and salt.
BLOOM IN BUTTER Yes, the spices will get plenty of heat on the grill. But sautéing them in butter releases additional flavors; they turn several shades darker (bright red to dark, rusty brown) and you can smell the difference. After they cool, we break apart the clumps and apply a thin layer to the fish. By the time the fish is cooked, the spices are blackened.
FLATTEN FILLETS Skin-on fillets will buckle when grilled because the skin shrinks back, pulling the flesh along with it. The fillets remain flat if the skin is scored first, which prevents it from contracting more quickly than the flesh. Use a sharp knife to make shallow slits in the skin before applying the rub, and make sure not to cut too deep, into the flesh.
CATCH AND RELEASE Blackening fish indoors makes no sense at home; you don’t have enough ventilation. We bring our recipe out to the grill. But to prevent the fish from sticking to the grill, we have to take some preventive measures. First, we chill the fish. At room temperature, the fillets will become floppy and will stick more readily to the grill. Second, we heat the grill, scrape the grate clean with a brush, and wipe it with oil-dipped paper towels at least five times, until the grates are black and glossy. To cook, place the fish diagonal to the grill grate with skin side facing down. And to flip? Slide one spatula underneath the fillet to lift, while using another to help support the fish as it’s flipped.
PEPPER-CRUSTED FILETS MIGNONS
SERVES 4
To crush the peppercorns, spread half of them on a cutting board, place a skillet on top, and, pressing down firmly with both hands, use a rocking motion to crush the peppercorns beneath the “heel” of the skillet. Repeat with the remaining peppercorns. While heating the peppercorns in oil tempers much of their pungent heat, this recipe is still pretty spicy. If you prefer a very mild pepper flavor, drain the cooled peppercorns in a fine-mesh strainer in step 1, toss them with 5 tablespoons of fresh oil, add the salt, and proceed. Serve with Blue Cheese and Chive Butter (recipe follows).
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5 |
tablespoons black peppercorns, crushed |
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5 |
tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil |
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1 |
tablespoon kosher salt |
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4 |
(7- to 8-ounce) center-cut filets mignons, 1½ to 2 inches thick |
1. Heat peppercorns and 5 tablespoons oil in small saucepan over low heat until faint bubbles appear. Continue to cook at bare simmer, swirling pan occasionally, until pepper is fragrant, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. When mixture is room temperature, add salt and stir to combine. Rub steaks with oil and pepper mixture, thoroughly coating top and bottom of each steak with peppercorns. Cover steaks with plastic wrap and press gently to make sure peppercorns adhere; let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position, place baking sheet on oven rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees. When oven reaches 450 degrees, heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place steaks in skillet and cook, without moving, until dark brown crust has formed, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn steaks and cook until well browned on second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer steaks to hot baking sheet in oven. Roast until meat registers 115 to 120 degrees (for rare), 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), or 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 3 to 7 minutes. Transfer steaks to wire rack and let rest, tented loosely with aluminum foil, for 5 minutes before serving.
BLUE CHEESE AND CHIVE BUTTER
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE PEPPER-CRUSTED FILETS MIGNONS
|
1½ |
ounces (¼ cup) mild blue cheese, room temperature |
|
3 |
tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
|
1⁄8 |
teaspoon salt |
|
2 |
tablespoons minced fresh chives |
Combine all ingredients in medium bowl. While steaks are resting, spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons butter onto each one.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Black peppercorns can give mild-tasting filet mignon a welcome flavor boost. But they can also create a punishing blast of heat. For pepper-crusted filets mignons with a crust that wouldn’t overwhelm the meat, we mellowed the peppercorns’ heat by gently simmering them in olive oil.
REVERSE ENGINEER In this recipe we’re using the same principles of blooming to convert the natural irritant in peppercorns (piperine) into more complex, less harsh flavor molecules. This means that we’re increasing overall flavor and complexity, while reducing the level of heat. How? As peppercorns age, the piperine is converted into closely related molecules (called isomers) that have different flavor characteristics and that are less irritating to the nose and throat. Left sitting at room temperature in your cupboard, the peppercorns may take months to undergo this reaction, but the hot oil serves as a catalyst, driving the conversion at hundreds of times its natural speed, as well as vaporizing some of the piperine, quickly tempering the pepper’s pungency. As a bonus, piperine and its isomers are oil-soluble, so that during the simmer some of the remaining pepper heat and flavor leach out of the peppercorns into the surrounding oil. This oil can then be discarded to further reduce the heat of the dish.
COAT AND PRESS We use a two-step process to create a well-browned and attractive pepper crust: First, we rub the raw steaks with a paste of the cooked cracked peppercorns, oil, and salt; then we press the paste into each steak using a sheet of plastic wrap to ensure it stays put. The paste not only adds flavor to the meat but also draws out the meat’s own beefy flavor. Adding salt to the rub makes it easy to season the steaks at the same time the crust is applied. The one-hour rest gives the salt time to do its work (see concept 12).
SEAR, THEN ROAST Here we sear the steaks in order to get them to brown and become flavorful (see concept 2) and then let them finish cooking in the oven on a preheated baking sheet (see concept 5). This is partly to ensure even cooking of the steaks, but also to limit the time the pepper crust is being seared—you don’t want it to burn.
REST AND SAUCE Be sure to let the steaks rest before serving (concept 3). If you like, spoon the compound Blue Cheese and Chive Butter over the steaks as they rest.