The streets of the Barri Gòtic and El Born are bursting with characteristic hole-in-the-wall shops and delightful neighborhood boutiques, while the Eixample is the upscale “uptown” shopping district. The area around Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel (at the northern edge of the Barri Gòtic) has a number of department and chain stores. Large stores and some smaller shops in touristy zones may remain open through the afternoon—but don’t count on it. On Saturdays, many shops are open in the morning only. On Sundays, most shops are closed (though the Maremagnum complex on the harborfront is open).
Consider picking up prints, books, posters, decorative items, or other keepsakes featuring works by your favorite artist (Picasso, Dalí, Miró, Gaudí, etc.). Gift shops at major museums are open to the public (such as the Picasso Museum and Gaudí’s La Pedrera) and are a bonanza for art and design lovers. Model-ship builders will be fascinated by the offerings at the Maritime Museum shop.
In this design-oriented city, home decor shops are abundant and fun to browse, offering a variety of Euro-housewares unavailable back home. Decorative tile and pottery can be a good keepsake. Eixample sidewalks are paved with distinctively patterned tiles, which are sold in local shops.
Home cooks might enjoy shopping for olive oil, wine, spices (such as saffron or sea salts), high-quality canned foods and preserves, torró (Catalan nougat), dried beans, and other Spanish food items. Remember, these must be sealed to make it back through US customs. But keep in mind that cured meat can never get past US customs, even if it is vacuum-packed and sealed. Cooks can look for European-style gadgets at kitchen-supply stores.
Market halls are great places to shop for Catalan edibles. The best are La Boqueria (just off the Ramblas) and Santa Caterina in El Born (both described earlier).
Department and chain stores can be fun places to browse for clothing. An espardenya (or alpargata in Spanish) is a soft-canvas, rope-soled shoe (known in the US as an espadrille). A few shops in Barcelona (including La Manual Alpargatera, in the Barri Gòtic) still make these the traditional way.
Jewelry shops are popular here. While the city doesn’t have a strictly local style, finding a piece with a Modernista flourish gives it a Barcelona vibe.
If you’re drawn to Catalunya’s culture, consider a Catalan flag (gold and red stripes). And if you’re a fan of Catalunyan independence, pick up one with the blue triangle and star.
Sports fans love jerseys, scarves, and other gear associated with the wildly popular Barça soccer team. As you wander, you’ll likely see official football team shops. Knockoffs can be found at any tourist gift shop for less.
The wide Carrer de la Portaferrissa, between the cathedral and the Ramblas, is lined with mostly international clothing stores (H&M, Mango, etc.). For more interesting streets lined with little local shops—plunge into some lanes just to the south.
Carrer de la Palla is ideal for antiques. On Carrer dels Banys Nous, the sprawling Oliver shop sells home decor, women’s clothing, and accessories. Directly across the lane, Artesania Catalunya is a large market-space run by the city, featuring handmade items from Catalan artisans.
Plaça del Pi has some worthwhile shops and often local food and crafts markets. On Carrer de Petritxol, lined with art galleries and fancy jewelry shops, stop into Granja La Pallaresa for churros con chocolate; or try Vicens, a fancy sweets shop specializing in torró. Carrer Ample feels local but with little bursts of trendy energy. Skinny Carrer de Bonsuccés, on the other side of the Ramblas, has some fine boutiques.
This area is bohemian-chic, with funky shops and unique boutiques. The neighborhood centers on the long boulevard called Passeig del Born and the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. Look for interesting shops in the area around Carrer del Rec (boutiques), on Carrer de l’Esparteria (off Carrer del Rec), and the streets between Carrer dels Banys Vells and Carrer de l’Argenteria (artisan workshops and handmade clothing, accessories, and bags).
This ritzy “uptown” district is home to some of the city’s top-end shops. In general, you’ll find a lot of big international names along Passeig de Gràcia, the main boulevard that runs from Plaça de Catalunya to the Gaudí sights—an area fittingly called the “Golden Quarter” (Quadrat d’Or). Appropriately enough, the “upper end” of Passeig de Gràcia has the fancier shops—Gucci, Luis Vuitton, Escada, Chanel, and so on—while the southern part of the street is relatively “low-end” (Zara, Mango, H&M). One block to the west, Rambla de Catalunya holds more local (but still expensive) options: fashion, home decor, jewelry, perfume, and so on. The streets that connect Rambla de Catalunya to Passeig da Gràcia are also home to some fine shops, including some fun kitchen stores: Try Gadgets & Cuina (Carrer d’Aragó 249) or The Kitchen Company (Carrer de Provença 246).
Plaça de Catalunya has a gigantic El Corte Inglés with a supermarket in the basement and a ninth-floor view cafeteria (Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00, until 22:00 in summer, closed Sun). Across the square is FNAC—a French department store that sells electronics, music, books, and tickets for major concerts and events (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun).
Like all of Spain, Barcelona is extremely lively after hours. People head out for dinner at 22:00, then bar-hop or simply wander the streets until well after midnight. Some days it seems that more people are out and about at 2:00 in the morning (party time) than at 2:00 in the afternoon (lunch time). The most “local” thing you can do here after sunset is to explore neighborhood watering holes and find your favorite place to enjoy a glass of wine.
Information: The TI hands out the free, monthly, user-friendly Time Out BCN Guide and Visit Barcelona (both in English, with descriptions of each day’s main events and ticket information). The TI’s culture website is also helpful: www.barcelona.cat/barcelonacultura. The weekly Guía del Ocio, sold at newsstands and free in some hotel lobbies, is a Spanish-language entertainment listing (with a guide for English speakers inside the back cover; www.guiadelocio.com).
Palau de la Virreina, an arts-and-culture information office, provides details on Barcelona cultural events—music, opera, and theater (Tue-Sun 11:00-20:00, closed Mon, Ramblas 99, see the “Ramblas Ramble” map, earlier, +34 933 161 000, www.lavirreina.bcn.cat). A ticket desk is next door.
Getting Tickets: Most venues sell tickets through their websites, or you can book through TicketMaster or TelenTrada for most events. You can also get tickets through the box offices in the main El Corte Inglés department store or the giant FNAC electronics store (both on Plaça de Catalunya, extra booking fee), or at the ticket desk in Palau de la Virreina (see above).
The Palace of Catalan Music (described under “Sights in Barcelona,” earlier) offers a full slate of performances, ranging from symphonic to Catalan folk songs to chamber music to flamenco (€20-175 tickets, box office open Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, Carrer Palau de la Música 4, Metro: Urquinaona, box office +34 933 957 207, www.palaumusica.cat). Look for shows held in the Sala de Concerts in order to see the Modernista main concert hall (not in the new Petit Palau hall).
The Liceu Opera House (Gran Teatre del Liceu), right in the heart of the Ramblas, is a pre-Modernista, sumptuous venue for opera, dance, children’s theater, and concerts (tickets from €10, buy tickets online up to 1.5 hours before show or in person, Ramblas 51, box office just around the corner at Carrer Sant Pau 1, Metro: Liceu, info +34 934 859 900 www.liceubarcelona.cat).
Some of Barcelona’s top sights host good-quality concerts. On summer weekends, a classy option is the “Summer Nights at La Pedrera” jazz concerts at Gaudí’s Modernista masterpiece in the Eixample (see here). Also try the Fundació Joan Miró and CaixaForum (for details, check their websites).
Two famously Spanish types of music—flamenco and Spanish guitar—have little to do with Barcelona or Catalunya, but are performed to keep visitors happy. If you’re headed for other parts of Spain where these musical forms are more typical (such as Andalucía for flamenco), you might as well wait until you can experience the real deal.
Flamenco: While flamenco is foreign to Catalunya (locals say that it’s like going to see country music in Boston), there are some good places to view this unique Spanish artform. Head to Palau Dalmases, in an atmospheric old palace courtyard in the heart of El Born, for the highest-quality performances I’ve found (€30 includes a drink, Fri-Wed at 19:30 and 21:30, Thu at 19:30 only, also hosts opera and jazz, Carrer de Montcada 20, +34 933 100 673, www.palaudalmases.com
Tarantos, on Plaça Reial in the heart of the Barri Gòtic, puts on brief (30 minutes), riveting flamenco performances several times nightly—an easy and inexpensive way to see it. Performances are in a touristy little bar/theater with about 50 seats (€17; nightly at 19:30, 20:30, and 21:30; Plaça Reial 17, https://tarantosbarcelona.com).
Another option is the pricey (and relatively high-quality) Tablao Cordobés on the Ramblas (€45 includes a drink, €80 includes mediocre buffet dinner and better seats, 3 performances/day, Ramblas 35, +34 933 175 711, www.tablaocordobes.es).
For flamenco in a concert-hall setting, try one of the Palace of Catalan Music’s regular performances (see listing earlier, under “Concerts”).
Spanish Guitar: “Masters of Guitar” concerts are offered nearly nightly at 21:00 in the Barri Gòtic’s Church of Santa Maria del Pi (€23 at the door, €4 less if you buy online or at least 3 hours ahead—look for ticket sellers in front of church, Plaça del Pi 7; +34 647 514 513, www.maestrosdelaguitarra.com). The same company also does occasional concerts in the Palace of Catalan Music (€39-45). Similar guitar concerts are performed at the Church of Santa Anna (+34 662 698 502, www.spanishguitarbarcelona.es, see here).
Passeig del Born, a broad park-like strip stretching from the Church of Santa Maria del Mar up to the old market hall, is lined with inviting bars and nightspots. Right on Passeig del Born is Miramelindo, a local favorite—mellow yet convivial, with two floors of woody ambience and a minty aura from all those mojitos the bartenders are mashing up (Passeig del Born 15). Palau Dalmases, in the atmospheric courtyard of an old palace, slings cocktails when it’s not hosting flamenco shows (described earlier). La Vinya del Senyor is a fine place for a glass of high-quality wine on the square in front of the Church of Santa Maria del Mar.
This elegant-feeling square, just off the Ramblas in the Barri Gòtic, has a trendy charm. It bustles with popular bars and restaurants offering pleasant outdoor tables and inflated prices. While not a great place to eat (the only one worth seriously considering for a meal is the recommended Les Quinze Nits), this is a great place to sip a before- or after-dinner drink. Bar Club Ocaña, at #13, has a dilapidated-mod interior, a see-through industrial kitchen, rickety-chic secondhand tables out on the square, and another cocktail bar downstairs (open nightly, can reserve a table online at www.ocana.cat). Or there’s always the student option: Buy a cheap €1 beer from a convenience store (you’ll find several just off the square, including a few along Carrer dels Escudellers, just south of Plaça Reial), then grab a free spot on the square, either sitting on one of the few fixed chairs, perched along the rim of the fountain, or simply leaning up against a palm tree.
Wandering the streets near the square leads to other nightlife options. Carrer de Escudellers is a significantly rougher scene—a few trendy options are mixed in with several sketchy dives. Much closer to the harbor, Carrer de la Mercè (described later, under “Eating in Barcelona”) has its share of salty sailors’ pubs and more youthful bars. The next street up, Carrer Ample, has a similar scene.
A broad beach stretches for miles from the former fishermen’s quarter at Barceloneta to the Fòrum. Every 100 yards or so is a chiringuito—a shack selling drinks and light snacks. Originally these sold seafood, but now they keep locals and tourists well-lubricated. It’s a very fun, lively scene on a balmy summer evening and a nice way to escape the claustrophobic confines of the Old City to enjoy some sea air and the day’s final sun rays.
Barceloneta itself has a broad promenade facing the harbor, lined with interchangeable seafood restaurants. But the best beach experience is beyond the tip of Barceloneta. From here, a double-decker boardwalk runs the length of the beach, with a cool walkway up above and a series of fine seafood restaurants with romantic candlelit beachfront seating tucked down below.
With a little hustle, in summer it’s possible to string together a fun evening of memorable views from the Montjuïc hilltop. Start with sweeping city vistas as you ride the Aeri del Port cable car (catch it at the tip of the Barceloneta peninsula) up to the park’s Miramar viewpoint. From there, head up to Montjuïc Castle on foot for more breathtaking views. Finally, wind your way around the hilltop to the Catalan Art Museum and reward yourself with a drink at its terrace café—a prime spot for taking in the Magic Fountains show (for details, see the museum listing earlier, under “Sights in Barcelona”).
Barcelona’s upscale uptown isn’t quite as lively or funky as some other neighborhoods, but a few streets have some fine watering holes. Walk along the inviting, park-like Rambla de Catalunya, or a couple of blocks over, along Carrer d’Enric Granados and Carrer d’Aribau (near the epicenter of the Eixample’s gay community); all of these streets are speckled with cocktail bars offering breezy outdoor seating. In the opposite direction (east of Passeig de Gràcia), Bar Dow Jones—popular with the American expat student crowd—has a clever gimmick: Drink prices rise and fall like the stock market (Carrer del Bruc 97).
Choosing the right neighborhood in Barcelona is as important as choosing the right hotel. All of my recommended accommodations are in safe areas convenient to sightseeing. The area around Plaça de Catalunya, Barcelona’s central square, is filled with business-class hotels. Near the Ramblas—the city’s pedestrian boulevard—you’ll find cheaper, less-refined places with more character. For Old World charm, stay in Barcelona’s Old City. For an uptown feel, sleep in the Eixample.
Despite being Spain’s most expensive city, Barcelona has reasonably priced rooms. Cheap places are more crowded in summer; fancier business-class hotels fill up in winter and may offer discounts on weekends and in summer. When considering relative hotel values, in summer and on weekends you can often get modern comfort in centrally located business-class hotels for about the same price (€130) as you’ll pay for ramshackle charm. For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods.
I rank accommodations from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For the best deal, contact hotels directly by phone or email. When you book direct, the owner avoids a commission and may be able to offer a discount. Book well in advance for peak season or if your trip coincides with a major holiday or festival (see the appendix). Note, though, that Barcelona can be busy any time of year. For more details on reservations, short-term rentals, and more, see the “Sleeping” section in the Practicalities chapter.
These modern hotels are on big streets within two blocks of Barcelona’s exuberant central square, where the Old City meets the Eixample. As business-class hotels, they have hard-to-pin-down prices that fluctuate with demand. In summer and on weekends, supply often far exceeds the demand, and many of these places cut prices. Some of my recommended hotels are on Carrer Pelai, a busy street; for these, request a quieter room in back.
$$$$ Hotel Catalonia Plaça Catalunya has four stars, an elegant old entryway with a modern reception area, splashy public spaces, slick marble and hardwood floors, 150 comfortable rooms, and a garden courtyard with a pool a world away from the big-city noise. It’s a bit pricey for the quality of the rooms—you’re paying for the posh lobby (air-con, elevator, a half-block off Plaça de Catalunya at Carrer de Bergara 11, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 015 151, www.cataloniahotels.com, booking@cataloniahotels.com).
$$$$ Hotel Midmost is an oasis a little west of Plaça de Catalunya. It has 56 rooms with luxurious, four-star style; a seaside-lounge-inspired rooftop terrace; and a mini pool to relax (family rooms, air-con, elevator, Carrer de Pelai 14, Metro: Universitat, +34 935 051 100, www.hotelmidmost.com, info@hotelmidmost.com).
$$$ Hotel Ginebra is a modern version of the old-school pension, with 18 rooms in a classic, well-located building at the corner of Plaça de Catalunya (RS%—use code “HGinebra-RickSteves” and print voucher, family rooms, breakfast extra, laundry, air-con, elevator, Rambla de Catalunya 1, Metro: Catalunya, +34 932 502 017, www.hotelginebra.com.es, info@barcelonahotelginebra.com, Brits Alfred and Ivon).
$$$ Hotel Reding Croma, on a quiet street a 10-minute walk west of the Ramblas and the Plaça de Catalunya action, is a slick and sleek place renting 44 basic but mod rooms on color-themed floors at a reasonable price (RS%, air-con, elevator, Carrer de Gravina 5, Metro: Universitat, +34 934 121 097, www.hotelreding.com, reservas@hotelreding.com).
$$$ Hotel Lleó (YAH-oh) is well-run, with 92 big, bright, and comfortable rooms; a great breakfast room; and a generous lounge (air-con, elevator, small rooftop pool, Carrer de Pelai 22, midway between Metros: Universitat and Catalunya, +34 933 181 312, www.hotel-lleo.com, info@hotel-lleo.com).
$$ Hotel Atlantis is solid, with 50 big, nondescript, slightly dated rooms and fair prices for the location (includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, Carrer de Pelai 20, midway between Metros: Universitat and Catalunya, +34 933 189 012, www.hotelatlantis-atbcn.com, inf@hotelatlantis-bcn.com).
$$ Hotel Denit is a small, stylish, 36-room hotel on a pedestrian street two blocks off Plaça de Catalunya. It’s chic, minimalist, and fun: Guidebook tips decorate the halls, and the rooms are sized like T-shirts, from small to extra-large (includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, Carrer d’Estruc 24, Metro: Catalunya, +34 935 454 000, www.denit.com, info@denit.com).
These places are generally family-run, with ad-lib furnishings, more character, and lower prices.
$$$ Hotel Continental Barcelona, in a building overlooking the top of the Ramblas, offers classic, tiny view-balcony opportunities if you don’t mind the street noise. Its 40 rooms are quite comfortable and the staff is friendly. Choose between your own little Ramblas-view balcony (where you can eat your breakfast) or a quieter back room. J. M.’s (José María’s) free breakfast and all-day snack-and-drink bar are a plus (RS%, air-con, elevator, quiet terrace, Ramblas 138, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 012 570, www.hotelcontinental.com, barcelona@hotelcontinental.com).
$$$ Hotel Nouvel, in an elegant, Victorian-style building on a handy pedestrian street, is less business oriented and offers more character than the others listed here. It boasts royal lounges and 78 comfy rooms (air-con, elevator, Carrer de Santa Anna 18, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 018 274, www.hotelnouvel.com, info@hotelnouvel.com).
$$ Hostal Grau is a homey, family-run, and extremely eco-conscious hotel with custom recycled furniture and organic bedding. It has 25 crisp, impeccable, and cheery rooms a few blocks off the Ramblas in the colorful university district. Double-glazed windows keep it quiet (some rooms with balconies, family rooms, strict cancellation policy, air-con, elevator, 200 yards up Carrer dels Tallers from the Ramblas at Ramelleres 27, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 018 135, www.hostalgrau.com, bookgreen@hostalgrau.com, Monica).
$$ Hostal Operaramblas, with 68 simple rooms 20 yards off the Ramblas, is clean, modern, and a great value. The street can feel a bit seedy at night, but it’s safe, and the hotel is very secure (RS%—use code “operaramblas,” air-con in summer, elevator, Carrer de Sant Pau 20, Metro: Liceu, +34 933 188 201, www.operaramblas.com, info@operaramblas.com).
These accommodations are buried in Barcelona’s Old City, mostly in the Barri Gòtic.
$$$$ Hotel Neri is posh, pretentious, and sophisticated, with 22 rooms spliced into the ancient stones of the Barri Gòtic, overlooking an overlooked square (Plaça Sant Felip Neri) a block from the cathedral. It has pricey modern art on the bedroom walls, dressed-up people in its gourmet restaurant, and high-class service (air-con, elevator, rooftop tanning deck, Carrer de Sant Sever 5, Metro: Liceu or Jaume I, +34 933 040 655, www.hotelneri.com, info@hotelneri.com).
$$$ Hotel Banys Orientals, a modern, boutique-type place, has a people-to-people ethic and refreshingly straight prices. Its 43 restful rooms are located in the El Born district on a pedestrianized street between the cathedral and Church of Santa Maria del Mar (air-con, elevator, Carrer de l’Argenteria 37, 50 yards from Metro: Jaume I, +34 932 688 460, www.hotelbanysorientals.com, reservas@hotelbanysorientals.com).
$$$ Hotel Racó del Pi, part of the H10 hotel chain, is a quality, professional place with generous public spaces and 37 modern, bright, quiet rooms. It’s located on a wonderful pedestrian street immersed in the Barri Gòtic (air-con, around the corner from Plaça del Pi at Carrer del Pi 7, three-minute walk from Metro: Liceu, +34 933 426 190, www.h10hotels.com, h10.raco.delpi@h10hotels.com).
$ Hostal el Jardí offers 40 remodeled rooms on a breezy square. Many of the tight, plain, comfy rooms come with petite balconies (for an extra charge) and enjoy an almost Parisian feel. It’s a good deal only if you value the quaint-square-with-Barri-Gòtic ambience—you’re definitely paying for the location. Book well in advance (air-con, elevator, some stairs, halfway between Ramblas and cathedral at Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 1, Metro: Liceu, +34 933 015 900, www.eljardi.com, reservations@eljardi.com).
For an uptown, boulevard-like neighborhood, sleep in the Eixample, a 10-minute walk from the Ramblas action. Most of these places use the Passeig de Gràcia or Catalunya Metro stops. Because these stations are so huge—especially Passeig de Gràcia, which sprawls underground for a few blocks—study the maps posted in the station to establish which exit you want before surfacing.
$$$$ Hotel Granvía, filling a palatial, brightly renovated 1870s mansion, offers a large, peaceful sun patio, several comfortable common areas, and 58 spacious, modern, business-style rooms (RS%—free breakfast for Rick Steves readers who book directly with the hotel, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 642, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 933 181 900, www.hotelgranvia.com, hgranvia@nnhotels.com).
$$$$ Hotel Yurbban Trafalgar is a small, classy boutique hotel with 56 rooms and a masculine-minimalist decor. Their rooftop bar, tiny pool, and views alone are worth the price of your stay (air-con, free self-service laundry, gym, near the Palace of Catalan Music at Carrer de Trafalgar 30, a long block from Metro: Urquinaona, +34 932 680 727, www.yurbban.com, trafalgar@yurbban.com).
$$$ Hotel Continental Palacete, with 22 small rooms, fills a 100-year-old chandeliered mansion. With flowery wallpaper and ornately gilded stucco, it’s gaudy in the city of Gaudí, but it’s also friendly, quiet, and well located. Guests have unlimited access to the outdoor terrace and a fruit, veggie, and drink buffet (RS%, includes breakfast, air-con, two blocks northwest of Plaça de Catalunya at corner of Rambla de Catalunya and Carrer de la Diputació, Rambla de Catalunya 30, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 934 457 657, www.hotelcontinental.com, palacete@hotelcontinental.com).
$$ BacHome B&B has two bright and comfortable locations in traditional Eixample buildings on Carrer Bruc. BacHome Terrace (at #14, +34 620 657 810) has 10 rooms and a pleasant outdoor terrace. BacHome Gallery (#96, +34 608 350 965) has seven rooms and common areas with big windows looking out onto the city (includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, Metro: Urquinaona, www.bachomebarcelona.com, reservations@bachomebarcelona.com).
$$ Hostal Oliva, family-run with care, is a spartan, old-school place with 15 basic, bright, high-ceilinged rooms. It’s on the fourth floor of a classic old Eixample building—with a beautiful mahogany elevator—in a perfect location, just a couple of blocks above Plaça de Catalunya (corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Carrer de la Diputació, Passeig de Gràcia 32, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 934 880 162, www.hostaloliva.com, info@hostaloliva.com).
¢ Equity Point Hostels: Barcelona has a terrific chain of well-run hostels—in the Eixample, in the Barri Gòtic, and near the beach—offering plenty of opportunities to meet other backpackers (+34 932 312 045, www.equity-point.com). All three locations enforce quiet hours after 23:00. Centric Point Hostel rents 400 beds in the heart of the Eixample (bar, kitchen, Passeig de Gràcia 33, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 932 151 796). Gothic Point Hostel rents 130 beds a block from the Picasso Museum (roof terrace, Carrer Vigatans 5, Metro: Jaume I, reception +34 932 687 808). Sea Point Hostel has 70 beds by the beach (closed roughly Nov-Feb, Plaça del Mar 4—see the “Barceloneta & Beaches” map, earlier, Metro: Barceloneta, reception +34 932 247 075).
¢ Somnio Hostel, a smaller place, has nine very simple rooms (RS%, cheaper rooms with shared bath, private rooms available, air-con, Carrer de la Diputació 251, second floor, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 932 725 308, www.somniohostels.com, info@somniohostels.com). A second location is five blocks farther out.
Friendly Rentals (www.friendlyrentals.com) has a number of listings in Barcelona (and other European cities). Local agencies include Top Barcelona Apartments (http://top-barcelona-apartments.com) and MH Apartments (www.mhapartments.com). I’ve had good luck with Cross-Pollinate, a reputable booking agency representing B&Bs and apartments in a handful of European cities, including Barcelona (US tel. +1 800 270 1190, www.cross-pollinate.com, info@cross-pollinate.com). For more information on renting apartments, see the “Sleeping” section of the Practicalities chapter.
Barcelona, the capital of Catalan cuisine, offers a tremendous variety of colorful places to eat, ranging from workaday eateries to homey Catalan bistros (cans), crowded tapas bars, and avant-garde restaurants. Good restaurants in Barcelona benefit from talented chefs who aren’t afraid to experiment, the relative affluence of the region, and the availability of good, fresh ingredients—especially fish and seafood.
In my recommendations, I’ve distinguished tapas places (which serve small plates throughout the afternoon and evening) from more formal restaurants (with generous portions, no tapas, and service that starts much later than the American norm). Most of my recommended eateries—grouped by neighborhood and handy to the sights—are practical, characteristic, affordable, and lively, with a busy tapas scene at the bar, along with restaurant tables where larger plates can be enjoyed family-style. To avoid bad, overly touristy restaurants, a good rule of thumb is not to eat (or drink) on the Ramblas or Passeig de Gràcia.
Catalan tapas menus most often include seafood (cod, hake, tuna, squid, and anchovies), delicious local olives, and a traditional sausage called butifarra. In restaurants, you’ll see Catalan favorites such as fideuà, a thin, flavor-infused noodle served with seafood—a kind of Catalan paella—and arròs negre, black rice cooked in squid ink. Pa amb tomàquet is the classic Catalan way to eat bread—toasted white bread with olive oil, tomato, and a pinch of salt. It’s often served free with your plate and also used to make sandwiches. While the famous cured jamón (ham) is more Spanish than it is Catalan, you’ll still find lots of it in Catalunya (see the “Sampling Jamón” sidebar in the Practicalities chapter). All this food is accompanied by local beers, wines, and, of course, the beloved sweet vermouth.
I rank eateries from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in Spain, including ordering, tipping, adapting to the Spanish eating schedule, and typical cuisine and beverages, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter. I’ve tried to make this information appropriately Catalan—as opposed to just Spanish with a Barcelona accent.
Hours: As in the rest of Spain, the people of Catalunya eat late—lunch around 14:00 (and as late as 16:00), and dinner after 21:00. The earliest you can go to a restaurant for dinner is about 20:30, when the place is empty or filled with tourists. Going after 21:00 is better, but if you wait until 22:00, it can be hard to get into popular restaurants. Note that many restaurants close in August (or July), when the owners take a vacation.
Although tapas are served throughout the day, the real action begins late—21:00 or after. For less competition at the bar, go early or on Monday and Tuesday (but check to see if the place is open, as many close on Sunday or Monday). For advice on adapting to the Spanish eating schedule, see here.
Bread and Water: Most places don’t automatically give you bread with your meal. If you ask for it, you’ll usually receive pa amb tomàquet (bread with tomato spread), and you will be charged. Barcelona’s tap water is safe to drink and free, but some bar owners are rather insistent on not serving it to their clientele, as it doesn’t taste particularly good. For details on how to ask for water, see here.
Local-Style Tapas: Catalans have an affinity for Basque culture, so you’ll find a lot of Basque-style tapas places here, where they lay out bite-size tapas (called pintxos, or pinchos) on the countertop. These places are user-friendly, as you are free to take what you want, and you don’t have to look at a menu or wait to be served; just grab what looks good, order a drink, and save your toothpicks (they’ll count them up at the end to tally your bill). I’ve listed several of these bars (including Taverna Basca Irati and Sagardi Euskal Taberna), but there are many others. Look for vasco or euskal (both mean “Basque”)—or just keep an eye out for places with lots of toothpicks. You’ll also find traditional Catalan tapas bars and bodegas (originally a name denoting wine cellars but preserved as many bodegas evolved into restaurants).
Catalan in Restaurants: Catalan and Spanish (in that order) are the official languages of Barcelona. While menus are usually in both languages, and many times English as well, these days—with the feisty spirit of independence stoked—you may find some menus in just Catalan, or Catalan and English without Spanish. I’ve given most food terms in Spanish and added Catalan where helpful. For terms in Spanish and Catalan, consult the “Tapas Menu Decoder” on here and the list of drink terms on here.
In any Catalan bar or restaurant, an occasional “si us plau” (please) or “moltes gràcies” (thank you very much) goes a long way with the locals. An “adéu” (good-bye), “que vagi bé” (have a good one!), or, in the evening, “bona nit” (good evening/night) on your way out the door will certainly earn you a smile. And, as they say in Catalan, “Bon profit!” (Bon appétit!)
The entire length of the Ramblas itself is a tourist trap with bad food, weak drinks, and rip-off prices. But within a few steps of the Ramblas, you’ll find several handy lunch places, an inviting market hall, and some good vegetarian options.
Although these places are enjoyable for a lunch break from sightseeing, many are also open for dinner.
$$ Taverna Basca Irati serves 40 kinds of hot and cold Basque pintxos for €2 each. These are small open-faced sandwiches—a baguette slice topped with something tasty. Muscle in through the hungry crowd, get an empty plate from the waiter, and then help yourself. Every few minutes, waiters circulate with platters of new, still-warm munchies. Grab one as they pass by...it’s addictive (you’ll be charged by the number of toothpicks left on your plate when you’re done). For drink options, look for the printed menu on the wall in the back. Wash down your food with Rioja (full-bodied red wine), Txakolí (sprightly Basque white wine), or sidra (apple wine). Open daily (11:00-24:00, a block off the Ramblas, behind arcade at Carrer del Cardenal Casanyes 17, Metro: Liceu, +34 933 023 084).
$$ Restaurant Elisabets is a rough little neighborhood eatery packed with antique radios. It’s popular with young locals and tourists alike for its €12 “home-cooked” three-course lunch special; even cheaper menú rapid options are available (13:00-16:00 only). Stop by for lunch, survey what those around you are enjoying, and order what looks best. Apparently, locals put up with the brusque service for the tasty food (cash only, Mon-Sat 7:30-23:00, closed Sun and Aug, 2 blocks west of Ramblas on far corner of Plaça del Bonsuccés at Carrer d’Elisabets 2, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 175 826).
Bright, clean, and inexpensive sandwich shops proudly hold the cultural line against the fast-food invasion that has hamburgerized the rest of Europe. You’ll see two big Catalan chains (Bocatta and Pans & Company) everywhere, serving mass-produced McBaguettes ordered from a multilingual menu. I’ve had better luck with hole-in-the-wall sandwich shops—virtually as numerous as the chains—where you can see exactly what you’re getting. Good alternatives include Conesa Entrepans (on Plaça de Sant Jaume) and the good local chain El Mós, with speedy service, fresh ingredients, and long hours daily (two locations near Plaça de Catalunya, at Carrer Comtal 12 and Carrer Santa Anna 9).
Kebab places are also a good, super-cheap standby; you’ll see them all over town. Another popular budget option is the empanada—a pastry turnover filled with seasoned meat and vegetables. In basic restaurants and bars, you’ll often find daily lunch specials (menú del día) for about €12. And you can always graze cheaply in bars offering an array of affordable tapas and individual bites called pintxos (or pinchos).
For other options, try Mucci’s Pizza, with good, fresh pizza slices and empanadas (two locations just off the Ramblas, at Bonsuccés 10 and Tallers 75). Wok to Walk makes tasty food on the run, serving up noodles and rice in takeaway containers with your choice of meat and/or veggies and finished with a savory sauce (convenient branches near Plaça de Sant Jaume and Liceu Metro station). Buenas Migas is another Barcelona chain serving focaccia, quiche, salads, and pastas (locations include behind the cathedral at Baixada de Santa Clara 2, at Plaça de la Sagrada Família 17, and off the Ramblas at Plaça del Bonsuccés 6).
$$ Café Granja Viader is a quaint time capsule, family-run since 1870. They boast about being the first dairy business to bottle and distribute milk in Spain. Specializing in baked and dairy treats, toasted sandwiches, and light meals, this place is ideal for a traditional breakfast. Or indulge your sweet tooth: Try a glass of orxata (or horchata—chufa-nut milk, summer only), llet mallorquina (Majorca-style milk with cinnamon, lemon, and sugar), crema catalana (crème brûlée, their specialty), or suis (“Swiss”—hot chocolate with a snowcap of whipped cream). Mel i mató is fresh cheese with honey...very Catalan (Mon-Sat 9:00-13:00 & 17:00-21:00, closed Sun, a block off the Ramblas behind Betlem Church at Carrer d’en Xuclà 4, Metro: Liceu, +34 933 183 486).
Cafeteria on Plaça de Catalunya: For a quick, affordable lunch with an almost 360-degree view, the ninth-floor cafeteria at $$ El Corte Inglés can’t be beat. Grab a tray and browse; there’s always fresh paella, and the food is often cooked to order (Mon-Sat 9:30-21:00, until 22:00 in summer, closed Sun, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 063 800).
Picnics: Shoestring tourists buy groceries at El Corte Inglés (supermarket in basement) and Carrefour Market (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun, Ramblas 113, Metro: Liceu).
La Boqueria Market: If you’re in La Boqueria and ready for lunch, a snack, or a drink, several high-energy bars would love to take your money. The Pinotxo Bar (just to the right as you enter) has a waiter beloved for his smile and his double thumbs up. If you see fun-loving Juan, give him a wink and a double thumbs up yourself. For more on La Boqueria, see the “Ramblas Ramble,” earlier. For a less-touristy market hall, try Santa Caterina in El Born (described later).
$$ Biocenter, a Catalan soup-and-salad restaurant busy with local vegetarians, takes its cooking very seriously and feels a bit more like a real restaurant than most (weekday lunch specials include soup or salad and plate of the day, Mon-Sat 13:00-23:00, Sun until 16:00, two blocks off the Ramblas at Carrer del Pintor Fortuny 25, Metro: Liceu, +34 933 014 583).
$$ Flax & Kale is a top-end vegetarian place; the nearby campus gives it a university vibe. As its name suggests, this place serves seriously healthy dishes and juices in a delightful, spacious indoor setting (daily 9:30-23:30, five-minute walk from the top of the Ramblas at Carrer Tallers 74, +34 933 175 664). Its sister location, named for the founder, Teresa Carles, is also good but in a more forgettable setting (same hours, closer to the Ramblas, just off Carrer Tallers at Carrer Jovellanos 2, Metro: Universitat or Catalunya, +34 933 171 829).
These eateries populate Barcelona’s atmospheric Gothic Quarter, near the cathedral.
$$$ Café de l’Academia is a delightful place on a pretty square tucked away in the heart of the Barri Gòtic, patronized mainly by the neighbors. They serve refined cuisine with Catalan roots, using what’s fresh from the market. The candlelit, air-conditioned interior is rustic yet elegant, with soft jazz, flowers, and modern art. And if you want to eat outdoors on a convivial, mellow square...this is the place. Reservations are a must, though if you show up without one, try asking to sit at the bar (lunch specials, open Mon-Fri 13:00-15:30 & 20:00-23:00, closed Sat-Sun, near the City Hall square, off Carrer de Jaume I up Carrer de la Dagueria at Carrer dels Lledó 1, Metro: Jaume I, +34 933 198 253).
$$$ La Vinateria del Call, buried deep in the Jewish Quarter, is one of the oldest wine bars in town. It offers a romantic restaurant-style meal of tapas with fine local wines. Eating at the small bar by the entrance is discouraged, so I’d settle in at a candlelit table. They have more than 100 well-priced wines, including a decent selection of Catalan wines at €2.50 a glass. Three or four plates of their classic tapas will fill two people (daily 19:30-24:00; with back to church, leave Plaça de Sant Felip Neri and walk two short blocks to Carrer de Salomó Ben Adret 9; Metro: Jaume I, +34 933 026 092).
$$$ Els Quatre Gats (“The Four Cats”) was once the haunt of the Modernista greats—including a teenaged Picasso and architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, who designed the building. You can snack or drink at the bar, or head to the back for a sit-down meal after 19:00. While touristy (less so later), the food and service are good, and the prices are fair (weekday lunch specials, daily 9:00-24:00, just steps off Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel at Carrer de Montsió 3, Metro: Catalunya, +34 933 024 140).
$$$ Onofre Vinos y Viandas, owned and run by Marisol and Ángel, is a tiny wine bar (20 wines by the glass) with a handful of simple tables behind walls of wine bottles. Foodie but without pretense, it has few tourists and a fun, creative, accessible menu—be adventurous and try the brandy foie shavings. For a gastronomic treat highlighting house favorites and seasonal specials, trust your hosts and order the €40-per-person “Marisol Extravaganza” (daily 10:00-16:30 & 19:30-24:00, near the Palace of Catalan Music, Carrer de les Magdalenes 19, +34 933 176 937).
$$ Bilbao Berria Pintxos and Tapas is a hardworking tapas bar, like its Basque sisters around town. It faces the cathedral, with tables outside on the square (15 percent surcharge to sit there), and sells little open-faced sandwiches and fun bites buffet-style for €2 per toothpick. Grab a plate and pick what you want (Plaça Nova 3, +34 933 170 124).
On Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol: To enjoy the most inviting square in the Gothic Quarter with a meal, consider these simple eateries, both with a few tables on the square: $$ Bar del Pi is a hardworking bar serving salads, sandwiches, and tapas (daily 9:00-23:00). $ El Drac de Sant Jordi has a fun budget formula—€10 for any four tapas, a drink, and a tiny dessert (daily 12:00-22:00).
This group of $$ restaurants offers the impression of fine dining at a budget price. While many tapas bars can be intense and sloppy, these restaurants offer a calm sit-down meal featuring good, solid, local dishes. They are popular for their artfully presented Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine; crisp, modern ambience; and unbeatable prices (€11 three-course lunches and €16-21 dinners—both with wine; open daily generally 13:00-15:45 & 20:00-23:00). These places are a hit with tourists—be warned that they are notoriously busy.
Three branches are on or near atmospheric Plaça Reial: Les Quinze Nits has great seating right on the square (line for dinner starts forming around 20:30, at #6, +34 933 173 075, takes reservations). La Crema Canela, a few steps above Plaça Reial, feels cozier than the others (Passatge de Madoz 6, +34 933 182 744, takes reservations). La Fonda is a block below Plaça Reial (Carrer dels Escudellers 10, +34 933 017 515).
Near the Palace of Catalan Music is a branch called La Dolça Herminia (Carrer de les Magdalenes 27, Metro: Jaume I, +34 933 170 676).
The Eixample hosts another restaurant in the chain, La Rita (described later).
This area lets you experience a rare, unvarnished bit of old Barcelona with great tascas—colorful local tapas bars. Get small plates (for maximum sampling) by asking for “tapas,” not the bigger “raciones.” Glasses of red wine (vino tinto) go for about €1. And though trendy uptown restaurants are safer, better-lit, and come with English menus and less grease, these places will stain your journal. The neighborhood’s dark, the regulars are rough-edged, and you’ll get a glimpse of a crusty Barcelona from before the affluence hit.
Of the many bars on Carrer de la Mercè, I’d visit these three: $ Bar Celta (marked la pulpería, at #9); $ La Plata (#28); and $ Cerveceria Vendimia, at the north end of Carrer de la Mercè (#46).
El Born sparkles with eclectic and trendy as well as subdued and classy little restaurants hidden in the small lanes surrounding the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. Consider starting off your evening with a glass of fine wine at one of the enotecas on the square facing the church (such as La Vinya del Senyor). Many restaurants and shops in this area are closed on Mondays. For all of these eateries, use Metro: Jaume I.
(If El Born feels too touristy, I feel your pain. The “next El Born” is El Raval. For a quick review of places you might eat there, see the brief overview on here.)
$$ Sagardi Euskal Taberna offers an array of Basque goodies—tempting pintxos and montaditos (small open-faced sandwiches) at €2 each—along its huge bar. Ask for a plate and graze (just take whatever looks good). You can sit on the square with your plunder for about 20 percent extra. Wash it down with Txakolí, a Basque white wine poured from the spout of a huge wooden barrel into a glass as you watch. Study the two price lists—bar and terrace—posted at the bar (daily 12:00-24:00, Carrer de l’Argenteria 62, +34 933 199 993). Note that Sagardi serves the same pintxos as Taverna Basca Irati, described earlier.
$$ Vegetalia, facing the Monument of Catalan Independence and the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, is a basic vegetarian diner with a cheery, healthy-feeling interior (good three-course lunch special, daily from 11:00, +34 930 177 256).
$$$ Parellada, filling a former cloister, is an elegant restaurant with a smart, tourist-friendly waitstaff. It serves a fun menu of Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine with a modern twist, all in a classy chandeliers-and-white-tablecloths setting (daily 13:00-15:45 & 20:30-23:30, Carrer de l’Argenteria 37, 100 yards from the Jaume I Metro stop, +34 933 105 094).
$$ El Xampanyet (“The Little Champagne Bar”), a colorful family-run bar with a fun-loving staff (Juan Carlos, his mom, and the man who may be his father). It specializes in tapas and anchovies—and their cheap homemade cava (Spanish champagne) goes straight to your head. Don’t be put off by the seafood from a tin: Catalans like it this way. A sortido de fumats (assorted plate of small fish) with pa amb tomàquet makes for a fun meal. This place is filled with tourists by day, but jam-packed with locals after dark. The scene is great, but can be tough without a little Spanish-language skill. When I asked about the price, Juan Carlos said, “Who cares? The ATM is just across the street” (same price at bar or table, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun evening and Mon, a half-block beyond the Picasso Museum at Carrer de Montcada 22, +34 933 197 003).
$$ Tapeo is a mod, classy alternative to the funky Xampanyet across the street. It serves high-end tapas at a long, sit-down bar and tiny tables with stools. This small space fills quickly so go early to get a seat (Tue-Sun 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Mon, Carrer de Montcada 29, +34 933 101 607).
$$$ Can Cisa/Bar Brutal is a creative and edgy bohemian-chic place with a young, local following. It serves a mix of Spanish and Italian dishes with an emphasis on wines—especially natural wines, with plenty available by the glass (Mon-Sat 13:00-24:00, closed Sun, Carrer de Princesa 14, +34 932 954 797).
$$$ Bar del Pla is a favorite near the Picasso Museum. This classic diner/bar—overlooking a tiny crossroads next to Barcelona’s oldest church—serves traditional Catalan dishes, raciones, and tapas. Their croquetas, mushrooms with wasabi, and crispy oxtail with foie gras are highlights. Prices are the same at a table or at the bar, which puts you in the middle of a great scene (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, closed Sun, reservations smart, local IPA; leaving the Picasso Museum, head right two blocks past Carrer de la Princesa to Carrer de Montcada 2; +34 932 683 003, www.bardelpla.cat).
$$ Cuines Santa Caterina, bright and modern, has shared tables under the open rafters of a modern market hall. There’s also a handy tapas bar and fine self-service outdoor seating on the square. Their menu—with vegetarian, international, and Mediterranean dishes, all made from market-fresh and seasonal ingredients—cross-references everything on an innovative grid (outside tables OK for both restaurant and tapas bar, daily 12:30-16:00 & 19:30-23:00, Avinguda de Francesc Cambó 16, +34 932 689 918, no reservations).
$ Tapas Bars: Several lively tapas bars are great for a quick and characteristic bite. Sitting here at one of these bars, immersed in the local scene, nets you a cheap and wonderful meal along with great market memories.
The people-packed boulevards of the Eixample are lined with appetizing eateries featuring breezy outdoor seating. Choose between a real restaurant or an upscale tapas bar (for the best variety, I prefer Rambla de Catalunya). For locations, see the map on here.
$$ La Rita is a fresh and dressy little restaurant serving Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine near the Block of Discord. Their €11 lunch and €16 dinner menú specials are a great value. Arrive early...or wait (daily 13:00-15:45 & 20:00-23:00, near corner of Carrer de Pau Claris and Carrer d’Aragó at d’Aragó 279, a block from Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 934 872 376).
$$ La Bodegueta is an atmospheric below-street-level bodega serving hearty wines, homemade vermouth, anchoas (anchovies), tapas, and flautas—sandwiches made with flute-thin baguettes. On a nice day, it’s great to eat outside, sitting in the median of the boulevard under shady trees. Its three-course lunch special with wine is a deal (Mon-Fri only, 13:00-16:00). A long block from Gaudí’s La Pedrera, this makes a fine sightseeing break (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, Sun from 18:00, at intersection with Carrer de Provença, Rambla de Catalunya 100, Metro: Provença, +34 932 154 894).
$$$ Restaurante la Palmera serves a mix of Catalan, Mediterranean, and French cuisine in an elegant room with bottle-lined walls. This untouristy place offers great food, service, and value—for me, a very special meal in Barcelona. They have three zones: the classic main room, a more forgettable adjacent room, and a few outdoor tables. I like the classic room. Reservations are smart (creative €24 six-plate degustation lunch—also available at dinner Sun and Tue-Thu, open Mon-Sat 13:00-15:45 & 19:45-23:30, closed Sun, Carrer d’Enric Granados 57, at the corner with Carrer Mallorca, Metro: Provença, +34 934 532 338, www.lapalmera.cat).
$$ La Flauta fills two floors with enthusiastic eaters (I prefer the ground floor). It’s fresh and modern, with a fun, no-stress menu featuring small plates, creative flauta sandwiches, and a three-course lunch deal. Consider the list of tapas del día. Good wines by the glass are listed on the blackboard, and solo diners get great service at the bar (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, closed Sun, upbeat and helpful staff, no reservations, just off Carrer de la Diputació at Carrer d’Aribau 23, Metro: Universitat, +34 933 237 038).
$$$$ Monvínic (“World of Wine”)—a sleek wine bar that’s evangelical about local wine culture—has an open kitchen, a passion for fine food, and little pretense. Considered one of the top wine bar/restaurants in town, their renowned chef creates Catalan and Mediterranean dishes for enjoying with the wine. Staff hope you’ll spend the evening, so reserve in advance. For a more casual visit, they have a tapas bar in front (Tue-Fri 13:00-23:00, Mon and Sat from 19:00, closed Sun, starters designed to share, creative tapas, lunch specials, Diputació 249, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, +34 932 726 187, www.monvinic.com).
Many trendy and touristic tapas bars in the Eixample offer a cheery welcome and slam out the appetizers. These two are particularly handy to Plaça de Catalunya and the Passeig de Gràcia artery (closest Metro stops: Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia).
$$$ Tapas 24 makes eating fun. This local favorite, with a few street tables, fills a spot a few steps below street level with happy energy, funky decor, and good yet pricey tapas. Along with daily specials and fine breakfasts, the menu has all the typical standbys and quirky inventions. The tapas del día list is particularly good. The owner, Carles Abellan, is one of Barcelona’s hot chefs; although his famous fare is pricey, you can enjoy it without going broke. Prices are the same whether you dine at the bar, a table, or outside. Come early or wait; no reservations are taken (daily 9:00-24:00, just off Passeig de Gràcia at Carrer de la Diputació 269, +34 934 880 977).
$$ Ciutat Comtal Cerveceria is an Eixample favorite with an elegant bar and tables plus good seating out on the Rambla de Catalunya for all that people-watching action. It’s packed after 21:00, when you’ll likely need to put your name on a list and wait. While it has no restaurant-type menu, the varied list of tapas and montaditos is easy, fun, high-quality, and includes daily specials (daily 8:00-24:00, facing the intersection of Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Rambla de Catalunya at Rambla de Catalunya 18, +34 933 181 997).
$$$$ Cinc Sentits (“Five Senses”), a 20-minute walk southwest of the Eixample, toward Montjuïc, is my gourmet recommendation for those who want to dress up and spend more money. At this chic, minimalist, snooty place, all the attention goes to the fine service and beautifully presented avant-garde cuisine inspired by Catalan traditions and ingredients. Expect menús only—no à la carte. The menú curt includes 8 courses (€99) and the menú degustació has 11 courses (€119); both are unforgettable extravaganzas. Each comes with a wine-pairing option (€59-69 extra). Reservations are essential (Tue-Sat 13:30-15:00 & 20:30-22:00, closed Sun-Mon, Carrer d’Entença 60, Metro: Rocafort line 1, or a 5-minute walk from Metro: Plaça de Espanya, +34 933 239 490, www.cincsentits.com).
The nearest Metro stop to this former sailors’ quarter is Barceloneta; the bus will get you closer—the best ones are #V15 (catch it at Plaça de Catalunya or along Via Laietana), #59 (from the top of the Ramblas), or #D20 (from the Columbus Monument). For the locations of these eateries, see the “Barceloneta & Beaches” map on here.
The main square of Barceloneta (Plaça del Poeta Boscà) is homey, with a 19th-century iron-and-glass market, families at play in the park, and lots of hole-in-the-wall eateries and bars. The main drag, Passeig de Joan de Borbó, faces the city and is lined with many interchangeable seafood restaurants and cafés.
$$$$ La Mar Salada is a traditional seafood restaurant with a slightly modern twist and both indoor and outdoor seating (weekday lunch menú, open Wed-Mon 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-23:00, closed Tue, Passeig de Joan de Borbó 59, +34 932 212 127).
$$$$ Restaurante Can Solé, serving seafood since 1903, hides on a nondescript lane between the square and the marina one block off the harborfront promenade, this venerable yet homey restaurant draws a celebrity crowd, judging by the autographed pictures of the famous and not-so-famous that line the walls (Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:00, closed Sun-Mon, Carrer de Sant Carles 4, +34 932 215 012, www.restaurantcansole.com).
$$ El Guindilla, in the market and spilling onto the main square, is a good value for a basic local meal in a neighborhood family setting (great outdoor tables, daily, Plaça del Poeta Boscà 2, +34 932 215 458).
$ Baluard, one of Barcelona’s most highly regarded artisan bakeries, faces one side of the big market hall. Line up with the locals to get a loaf of heavenly bread, a pastry, or a slice of pizza (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, closed Sun, Carrer del Baluard 38, +34 932 211 208).
The chiringuito tradition of funky eateries lining Barcelona’s beach now has serious competition from trendy bars and restaurants. My favorites are at the far south end near the towering Hotel W.
$$$$ Pez Vela is the top-end option with a fashionable local crowd and its own DJ (daily 13:00-23:30, Passeig del Mare Nostrum 19, +34 932 216 317).
$$$ Mamarosa Beach, just next door, is a family-friendly place with Italian classics and local favorites (daily 13:00-24:00, Passeig del Mare Nostrum 21, +34 933 123 586).
Information on Barcelona’s airports can be found on the official Spanish airport website, www.aena.es.
Generally referred to as El Prat, the airport is eight miles southwest of town (code: BCN, info +34 913 211 000). It has two large terminals linked by shuttle buses. Terminal 1 serves Air France, Air Europa, American, British Airways, Delta, Iberia, Lufthansa, United, Vueling, and others. EasyJet, Ryanair, and minor airlines use the older Terminal 2, which is divided into sections A, B, and C.
Terminal 1 and the bigger sections of Terminal 2 (A and B) each have a post office, a pharmacy, a left-luggage office, plenty of good eateries in the gate areas, and ATMs.
To get downtown cheaply and quickly, take the bus or train (about 30 minutes on either). You can also connect by Metro (more transfers) or taxi (more expensive).
By Bus: The Aerobus (#A1 and #A2, corresponding with Terminals 1 and 2) picks up immediately outside the arrivals lobby of both terminals and makes several stops downtown, including at Plaça de Catalunya, near many of my recommended hotels (returning from downtown, buses leave from in front of El Corte Inglés). Either way it’s very easy: Buses depart about every five minutes (runs 5:30-24:00, 30-40-minute ride, buy €6 ticket from driver, +34 902 100 104, www.aerobusbcn.com).
By Train: The Renfe train (on the “R2 Nord” Rodalies line) leaves from Terminal 2 and involves more walking. Head up the escalators and down the long orange-roofed skybridge to reach the station (2/hour at about :08 and :38 past the hour, 20 minutes to Sants station, 25 minutes to Passeig de Gràcia station—near Plaça de Catalunya; €4.60, purchase from machines at the airport train station). If you’re arriving or departing from Terminal 1, you’ll need to use the airport shuttle bus to connect with the train station, so leave extra time (10 buses/hour, 7-minute ride between terminals).
By Metro: Take Metro’s L9 Sud (orange) line from either Terminal 1 or 2 to the Zona Universitária stop, then transfer to the L3 (green) line and ride to a downtown stop (Passeig de Gràcia, Plaça de Catalunya, or Liceu). To reach the airport from downtown via Metro, take line L3 to Zona Universitária, and transfer to line L9 in the direction of Aeroport T1 (runs about every 10 minutes 5:00 until late; 20-30 minute ride). Use the €5.15 Bitllet Aeroport ticket or any “Hola BCN!” travel card (single-ride Metro tickets and T-Casual and T-Familiar multiride cards do not cover this trip).
By Taxi: A taxi between the airport and downtown costs about €40 (including the €4.30 airport supplement). To get to the cruise port, ask for “tarifa cuatro”—a €39 flat rate between the airport and the cruise port, all fees included.
Some budget airlines use this airport, located 60 miles north of Barcelona near Girona (code: GRO, +34 972 186 600, www.aena.es). If you arrive on a Ryanair flight, you can take a bus (#604), run by Ryanair and operated by Sagalés, to the Barcelona Nord bus station (departs airport about 20 minutes after each arriving flight, 1.25 hours, €16, +34 902 130 014, www.sagales.com). You can also take a Sagalés bus (#602, about every 10 minutes, 1.5 hours, €2.75) or a taxi (€25) to the town of Girona, then catch a train to Barcelona (at least hourly, 1.5 hours, €15-20). A taxi between the Girona airport and Barcelona costs at least €130.
Barcelona’s big white main train station offers many services. In the large lobby area, you’ll find a TI, ATMs, a world of handy shops and eateries, pay WCs, car-rental kiosks, and, in the side concourse, a classy, quiet Sala Club lounge for travelers with first-class reservations. Sants is the only Barcelona station with luggage storage (€6/up to 2 hours, €10/day, daily 5:30-23:00, follow signs to consigna; go toward track 14, then exit the main building toward parking lot and go down to level -1).
In the vast main hall is a very long wall of ticket windows. Figure out which one you need before you wait in line (all are labeled in English). Generally, windows 1-7 (on the left) are for local commuter and media distancia trains, such as to Sitges; windows 8-21 handle advance tickets for long-distance (larga distancia) trains beyond Catalunya; windows 22-26 give information—go here first if you’re not sure which window you want; and windows 27-31 sell tickets for long-distance trains leaving today. These window assignments can shift in the off-season. The information booths by windows 1 and 21 can help you find the right line and can provide some train schedules.
Scattered nearby are train-ticket vending machines. The red-and-gray machines sell tickets for local and media distancia trains within Catalunya. The purple machines are for national Renfe trains; these machines can also print out reserved tickets if you have a confirmation code. And the orange machines sell local Rodalies train tickets. There are usually attendants around the machines to help you.
An easier option for English-speaking travelers is to buy your tickets at the travel agencies inside El Corte Inglés department stores. See here for more info.
Getting Downtown: To reach the center of Barcelona, take the Metro or a train. To ride the subway, follow signs for the Metro (red M), and hop on the L3 (green) or L5 (blue) line, both of which link to useful points in town. Purchase tickets for the Metro at touch-screen machines near the tracks.
To zip downtown even faster (just 5 minutes), you can take any Rodalies de Catalunya suburban train from track 8 (R1, R3, or R4) to Plaça de Catalunya (departs at least every 10 minutes). Your long-distance Renfe train ticket comes with a complimentary ride on Rodalies, as long as you use it within three hours before or after your travels. Look for a code on your ticket labeled Combinat Rodalies or Combinado Cercanías. Go to the orange commuter ticket machines, touch Combinat Rodalies, type in your code, and the machine will print your ticket.
Unless otherwise noted, all trains listed below depart from Sants station; some trains also stop at other stations more convenient to the downtown tourist zone: França station, Passeig de Gràcia, or Plaça de Catalunya. Figure out if your train stops at these stations (and board there) to save yourself the trip to Sants.
If departing from the downtown Passeig de Gràcia station, where three Metro lines converge with the rail line, you might find the underground tunnels confusing. You can’t access the Renfe station directly from some entrances. Use the northern entrances to this station (rather than the southern “Consell de Cent” entrance, which is closest to Plaça de Catalunya). Train info: +34 912 320 320, www.renfe.com.
From Barcelona by Train to Madrid: The AVE train to Madrid is faster and more comfortable than flying (especially when you consider that you’re zipping from downtown to downtown). The train departs at least hourly. The nonstop train is a little more expensive but faster (€130, 2.5 hours) than the train that makes a few stops (€110, 3 hours). Regular reserved AVE tickets can be purchased in advance (often with a discount) at the Renfe website and printed from an email or at the station. You can also download a ticket QR code to your phone. If you have a rail pass, most trains require paid reservations; see the “Transportation” section of the Practicalities chapter.
A new line of low-cost fast trains, AVLO, may be up and running with a Madrid-Zaragoza-Barcelona route by the time you visit—check https://avlorenfe.com.
From Barcelona by Train to: Sitges (departs from both Passeig de Gràcia and Sants, 4/hour, 40 minutes), Montserrat (departs from Plaça d’Espanya—not from Sants, 1-2/hour, 1 hour, €22 round-trip, includes cable car or rack train to monastery—see details on here), Figueres (hourly, 1 hour via AVE or Alvia to Figueres-Vilafant; hourly, 2-3 hours via local trains to Figueres station), Sevilla (2/day direct, more with transfer in Madrid, 5.5 hours), Granada (3/day via AVE, 1 direct, 2 with change in Madrid, 6-7.5 hours—1.5-hour flight is better), Córdoba (6/day direct, 5 hours, many more with transfer in Madrid), Salamanca (6/day, 7 hours, change in Madrid from Atocha station to Chamartín station via Metro or cercanías train; also 1/day with a change in Valladolid, 8.5 hours), San Sebastián (2/day direct, 6 hours), Málaga (8/day via AVE, 6.5 hours; some with transfer), Lisbon (no direct trains, head to Madrid and then catch night train to Lisbon, 14 hours—or fly).
From Barcelona by Train to France: Direct high-speed trains run to Paris (2/day, 6.5 hours), Lyon (1/day, 5 hours), and Toulouse (1/day, 3 hours), and there are more connections with transfers.
Most buses depart from the Nord bus station at Metro: Arc de Triomf, but confirm when researching schedules (www.barcelonanord.cat). Destinations served by Alsa buses (www.alsa.es) include Madrid and Madrid’s Barajas Airport (nearly hourly, 8 hours), and Salamanca (2/day, 12 hours). Moventis Sarfa buses (https://compras.moventis.es) serve many coastal resorts, including Cadaqués (1-2/day, 3 hours). Reservations are smart for long-distance destinations, especially during the busy summer season.
The Plana Autocars / Mon-Bus leaves from the university and Plaça d’Espanya in downtown Barcelona to Sitges (2/hour, 1 hour, www.monbus.cat). One bus departs daily for the Montserrat monastery, leaving from Carrer de Viriat near Sants station (1.5 hours, see here).
Cruise ships arrive in Barcelona at one of three ports, all just southwest of the Old City, beneath Montjuïc. If your trip includes cruising beyond Barcelona, consider my guidebook, Rick Steves Mediterranean Cruise Ports.
Most cruise ships arrive in Barcelona at the Moll Adossat/Muelle Adosado port, about two miles from the bottom of the Ramblas. This port has four modern, airport-like terminals (lettered A through D); most have a café, shops, and TI kiosk; some have Wi-Fi and other services. Two other terminals are far less commonly used: the World Trade Center, just off the southern end of the Ramblas (a 10-minute walk from the Columbus Monument), and Moll de la Costa, tucked just beneath Montjuïc (ride the free, private shuttle bus to World Trade Center; from there, it’s a short walk or taxi ride to the Columbus Monument).
Getting Downtown: From any of the cruise terminals, it’s easy to reach the Ramblas. Taxis meet arriving ships outside terminal building exits (about €15-20 to downtown, as much as €10 more in heavy traffic; expect a cruise-port surcharge). To get to the airport, ask for “tarifa cuatro”—a €39 flat rate between the airport and the cruise port, all fees included.
You can also take a shuttle bus from Moll Adossat/Muelle Adosado to the bottom of the Ramblas, then walk or hop on public transportation to various sights. The blue Cruise Bus departs from the parking lot in front of each of the port’s four terminals and drops you right on the waterfront near the Columbus Monument (€4 round-trip, 2/hour, timed to cruise ship arrival, 5-15 minutes, +34 932 986 000). The return bus to the port leaves from where you were dropped off (look for a covered bus stop bench and blue-and-white sign reading Cruise Bus).
