Mitts, Gloves & Cuffs

Sweet Pea Mitts

Designed by Lisa Swanson

These sweet mitts feature a Vine Lace pattern and an I-cord bind off. They are ambidextrous, making them easy to knit and to wear.

• Finished Measurements: 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm circumference and 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm long
• Yarn: Brown Sheep Wildfoote, 75% superwash wool/25% nylon, 215 yds (197 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color SY-32 Little Lilac
• Needles: Two US 1 (2.5 mm) circular needles 16"/40 cm long and set of four US 1 (2.5 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 28 stitches and 42 rounds = 4"/10 cm in Vine Lace pattern
• Other Supplies: Stitch markers, scrap yarn for holders, yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Vine Lace (multiple of 9 stitches plus 4)

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: K2, *k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Round 3: Knit.

Round 4: K2, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

Pattern Notes

Instructions are written for knitting in the round on two circular needles. See page 291 for more information.

Knitting the Mitts (make 2)

• Cast on 58 stitches, join for working in the round, and divide stitches evenly onto two circular needles.
• Following written instructions or chart, work Rounds 1–4 of Vine Lace pattern 11 times, or to desired length from start of mitt to base of thumb.

  Vine Lace

  

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• Slip the last 2 stitches from Needle 2 to the beginning of Needle 1; these stitches will be worked again at the start of the next round.
• Following written instructions or chart (see below), work Rounds 1–20 of Gusset pattern.

  Gusset

  
• Round 1: K1, place marker, M1L, k2, M1L, place marker, knit to end. You now have 4 stitches between thumb markers.
• Round 2: K1, slip marker, k4, slip marker, k1, *k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 3: K1, slip marker, M1L, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, knit to end — 2 stitches increased between thumb markers.
• Round 4: K1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k1, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
• Rounds 6–15: Repeat Rounds 2–5 two more times, then work Rounds 2 and 3 once more. You now have 18 stitches between thumb markers and 74 stitches total. Note: The increases are deliberately not mirrored.
• Round 16: K20 slipping markers, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 17: Knit.
• Round 18: K20 slipping markers, *k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 19: Knit.
• Round 20: Repeat Round 16.
• Next Round (counts as Round 1 of Vine Lace pattern): K1, remove thumb markers and place 18 thumb stitches on scrap yarn holder, cast on 2 stitches across thumb gap, knit to end of round. You now have 58 stitches.
• Knit the first 2 stitches of Needle 1 onto the end of Needle 2 to restore the beginning of the round to its original position.

Continuing the Mitt

• Work Rounds 2–4 of Vine Lace pattern once, then repeat Rounds 1–4 three more times or to desired length, usually just below the knuckles.
• Bind off in 2-stitch I-cord (see page 292) until 2 I-cord stitches remain. Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Join last 2 I-cords stitches to base of first 2 I-cord stitches with yarn tail so I-cord appears continuous around the top edge.

Knitting the Thumb

• Divide the 18 held thumb stitches onto three double-point needles and join yarn to beginning of stitches with RS facing. K18, then pick up and knit (see page 297) 7 stitches from thumb gap. You now have 25 stitches. Knit 6 rounds or until thumb reaches the desired length. Bind off in 2-st I-cord as for top of mitt. Weave in ends.

Lacy Hand Warmers

Designed by Tamara Del Sonno

These lovely little hand warmers have a touch of silk, which adds a little sheen to the wool. Knitted in a rib and lace pattern, they will stretch to fit many sizes.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 6¹⁄₂"/16.5 cm circumference at top of hand, unstretched, and 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm long
• Yarn: Spud & Chloë Fine, 80% superwash wool/20% silk, 248 yds (227 m)/2.3 oz (65 g), Color 7800 Popcorn
• Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge and straight needles one size larger for cast on
• Gauge: 36 stitches and 40 rounds = 4"/10 cm in k2, p1 rib pattern, unstretched
• Other Supplies: Stitch markers, scrap yarn for stitch holder, yarn needle
• Special Abbreviations: LP (lift, purl) wyif, insert the right-hand needle under the strand between the needles from back to front, place the lifted strand on the left-hand needle, then purl the lifted strand and the stitch after it together
  • SLP (slip, lift, purl): wyif, slip the next purl stitch to the right-hand needle, insert the right-hand needle under the strand between the needles from back to front, place lifted strand on the left-hand needle, return the slipped stitch to the left-hand needle, and purl the stitch and the lifted strand after it together
  • sssk (slip, slip, slip, knit): slip 3 stitches knitwise, one at a time, to right-hand needle. Insert left-hand needle into front of the stitches and k3tog tbl — 2 stitches decreased.
  • WL (work lifted strand): insert right-hand needle under the strand between the needles from back to front, place lifted strand on the left-hand needle, then knit or purl it through its front loop as necessary to maintain the rib pattern — 1 stitch increased. Note: Do not twist the lifted strand; this increase deliberately creates a hole for decorative effect.

Pattern Essentials

Side Lace (worked over 4 stitches)

Round 1: P1, yo, ssk, p1.

Round 2: P1, k2, p1.

Round 3: P1, k2tog, yo, p1.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Repeat Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

Thumb Lace (multiple of 3 stitches plus 1)

Round 1: P1, *yo, ssk, p1; repeat from *.

Round 2: P1, *k2, p1; repeat from *.

Round 3: P1, *k2tog, yo, p1; repeat from *.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Repeat Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

Knitting the Left Warmer

Knitting the Cuff

• Using larger needles and knitted-on method (see page 294), cast on 96 stitches loosely. Divide stitches evenly on smaller double-point needles. Place marker and join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
• Round 1: Knit.
• Round 2: *Sssk, k3tog, yo; repeat from * to end of round. You now have 48 stitches.
• Rounds 3–8: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end of round. Piece measures about 1"/2.5 cm.

Knitting the Hand

• Round 1: K1, M1R, k1, place marker, work Round 1 of Thumb Lace over 13 stitches, place marker, k1, M1L, k1, (p1, k2) five times, place marker, work Round 1 of Side Lace over 4 stitches, place marker, (k2, p1) four times. You now have 50 stitches.
• Round 2: K3, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k3, (p1, k2) five times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) four times.
• Round 3: K2, M1R, k1, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k1, M1L, k2, (p1, k2) five times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) four times. You now have 52 stitches.
• Round 4: K4, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k4, (p1, k2) five times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) four times.
• Round 5: Work as established to 2 stitches before marker, WL, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, WL, work as established to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work as established to end — 2 stitches increased.
• Round 6: Working new stitches into established k2, p1 rib pattern, work in pattern to 2 stitches before marker, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to end.
• Rounds 7–23: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 eight more times, then work Round 5 once more, ending with Round 3 of both lace patterns. You now have 72 stitches: 14 rib stitches before Thumb Lace, 13 stitches Thumb Lace, 29 rib stitches between lace patterns, 4 stitches Side Lace, 12 rib stitches at end of round.
• Round 24: (K2, p1) four times, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, (p1, k2) nine times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) four times, remove end-of-round marker, work first 12 stitches of round again as (k2, p1) four times, replace marker. You now have 2 knit stitches before Thumb Lace, 13 stitches Thumb Lace, 29 rib stitches for back of hand between lace patterns, 4 stitches Side Lace, 24 rib stitches for palm at end of round.
• Round 25: K2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, LP, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to last 3 stitches, SLP, k2. Note: The LP and SLP stitches imitate the decorative effect of the WL increases without adding any stitches.
• Round 26: K2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, p1, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
• Rounds 27–48: Repeat Rounds 25 and 26 eleven more times, ending with Round 4 of both lace patterns.

Reserving the Thumb Stitches

• Round 49 (Round 1 of lace patterns): Removing thumb markers, k2, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, k2, p1, place 18 stitches just worked on stitch holder, work in established patterns to end of round, remove marker, use the knitted-on method to cast on 3 stitches at end of round, work cast-on stitches as k2, p1, place marker for new beginning of round. You now have 57 stitches: 26 stitches before Side Lace pattern, 4 stitches Side Lace between markers, and 27 stitches after Side Lace pattern.

Continuing the Hand

• Round 50 (Round 2 of lace patterns): Work 26 stitches in established rib, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work 23 stitches in established rib, work last 4 stitches in Side Lace pattern.
• Rounds 51–66: Work 16 rounds even as established, ending with Round 2 of Side Lace patterns.
• Bind off using 2-stitch I-cord method (see page 292). Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail, and use the tail to join the last 2 I-cord stitches to the first 2 I-cord stitches so I-cord appears continuous around the bound-off edge.

Knitting the Thumb

• Return 18 held thumb stitches to needles and rejoin yarn to beginning of stitches with RS facing. K2, work Round 2 of Thumb Lace pattern over 13 stitches, k2, p1, pick up and knit (see page 297) 3 stitches from base of stitches cast on across thumb gap. You now have 21 stitches.
• Next Round: K2, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, k2, work 4 stitches Side Lace.
• Work 7 more rounds as established, ending with Round 2 of both lace patterns. Bind off with 2-stitch I-cord method as for top of hand. Weave in ends.

Knitting the Right Warmer

• Cast on and work Rounds 1–8 of cuff as for left warmer. You now have 48 stitches; piece measures about 1"/2.5 cm.

Knitting the Hand

• Round 1: K1, M1R, k1, place marker, work Round 1 of Thumb Lace over 13 stitches, place marker, k1, M1L, k1, (p1, k2) four times, place marker, work Round 1 of Side Lace over 4 stitches, place marker, (k2, p1) five times. You now have 50 stitches.
• Round 2: K3, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k3, (p1, k2) four times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) five times.
• Round 3: K2, M1R, k1, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k1, M1L, k2, (p1, k2) four times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) five times. You now have 52 stitches.
• Round 4: K4, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k4, (p1, k2) four times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) five times.
• Round 5: Work as established to 2 stitches before marker, WL, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, WL, work as established to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work as established to end — 2 stitches increased.
• Round 6: Working new stitches into established k2, p1 rib pattern, work in pattern to 2 stitches before marker, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to end.
• Rounds 7–23: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 eight more times, then work Round 5 once more, ending with Round 3 of both lace patterns. You now have 72 stitches: 14 rib stitches before Thumb Lace, 13 stitches Thumb Lace, 26 rib stitches between lace patterns, 4 stitches Side Lace, 15 rib stitches at end of round.
• Round 24: (K2, p1) four times, k2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, (p1, k2) eight times, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, (k2, p1) five times, remove end-of-round marker, work first 12 stitches of round again as (k2, p1) four times, replace marker. You now have 2 knit stitches before Thumb Lace, 13 stitches Thumb Lace, 26 rib stitches for palm between lace patterns, 4 stitches Side Lace, 27 rib stitches for back of hand at end of round.
• Round 25: K2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, LP, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to last 3 stitches, SLP, k2.
• Round 26: K2, slip marker, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, slip marker, k2, p1, work in rib pattern to next marker, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work in rib pattern to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
• Rounds 27–48: Repeat Rounds 25 and 26 eleven more times, ending with Round 4 of both lace patterns.

Reserving the Thumb Stitches

• Round 49 (Round 1 of lace patterns): Removing thumb markers, k2, work 13 stitches Thumb Lace, k2, p1, place 18 stitches just worked on stitch holder, work in established patterns to end of round, remove marker, use the knitted-on method to cast on 3 stitches at end of round, work cast-on stitches as k2, p1, place marker for new beginning of round. You now have 57 stitches: 23 stitches before Side Lace pattern, 4 stitches Side Lace between markers, and 30 stitches after Side Lace pattern.

Continuing the Hand

• Round 50 (Round 2 of lace patterns): Work 23 stitches in established rib, slip marker, work 4 stitches Side Lace, slip marker, work 26 stitches in established rib, work last 4 stitches in Side Lace pattern.
• Rounds 51–66: Work 16 rounds even as established, ending with Round 2 of Side Lace patterns.
• Bind off using 2-stitch I-cord method as for left warmer.

Knitting the Thumb

• Work as for left warmer.

Trellis Mitts

Designed by Ann McClure

These fancy fingerless mitts feature a Triple Leaf lace panel offset by twisted stitches and smocking at the cuff and top. Because they’re worked from the top down, you’ll also find a unique thumb construction. That’s a lot of knitting adventure in one — well, okay, two — small projects.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 6"/15 cm circumference, unstretched, and 7"/18 cm long
• Yarn: Ella Rae Lace Merino, 100% extra fine merino wool, 460 yds (420 m)/3.5 oz (100 g), Color 35 Emerald
• Needles: Set of four US 2 (2.75 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 28 stitches and 40 rounds = 4"/10 cm in Triple Leaf pattern
• Other Supplies: Smooth scrap yarn for provisional cast on, crochet hook similar in size to knitting needles, stitch holders (or more scrap yarn), stitch markers, yarn needle
• Special Abbreviations: LT (left twist) with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, knit the second stitch through the back loop and leave it on needle, knit the first stitch, and slip both stitches from left-hand needle
  • RT (right twist): k2tog, leaving stitches on left-hand needle, knit the first stitch again, and slip both stitches from left-hand needle

Pattern Essentials

Wrap 3: Wyib, slip 3 stitches purlwise to right-hand needle; bring yarn to front and slip 3 stitches back to left-hand needle; bring yarn to back and slip 3 stitches purlwise to right-hand needle.

Knitting the Right Mitt

• Cast on 48 stitches and place 12 stitches on Needle 1, 24 stitches on Needle 2, and 12 stitches on Needle 3. Note: Needle 2 holds the back-of-hand stitches. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches; the round begins in the center of the palm.

Knitting the Top Smocking

• Round 1: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 2: Repeat Round 1.
• Round 3: *P1, Wrap 3; repeat from * to end of round.
• Rounds 4–6: Repeat Round 1.
• Round 7: P1, k1, p1, *Wrap 3, p1; repeat from *, moving stitches between the needles as necessary to accommodate the wraps, to last 2 stitches, p1, then work Wrap 3 over the last stitch of this round and the first 2 stitches of the next round. Note: Do not change the starting point of the round; replace the end-of-round marker after the first stitch of the Wrap 3, and count the last 2 stitches of the Wrap 3 as the first 2 stitches of Round 8.
• Rounds 8–10: Repeat Round 1.
• Round 11: Repeat Round 3.
• Rounds 12 and 13: Repeat Round 1.

Knitting the Triple Leaf Pattern

• Move 1 stitch from Needle 2 to Needle 3. On Needles 1 and 3, continue in rib as established (without any Wrap 3s). On the 23 stitches of Needle 2, following either the chart or the written version, work Rounds 1–12 of Triple Leaf pattern once, then work Rounds 1–10 once more.

  Triple Leaf

  
• Round 1: P1, k2, p1, k15, p1, k2, p1.
• Round 2: P1, k2, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, k3tog, (yo, k1) three times, yo, k3tog tbl, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k2, p1.
• Round 3: P1, RT, p1, k15, p1, LT, p1.
• Round 4: P1, k2, p1, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k7, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k1, p1, k2, p1.
• Round 5: Repeat Round 1.
• Round 6: P1, RT, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k1, p1, LT, p1. You now have 25 stitches.
• Round 7: P1, k2, p1, k17, p1, k2, p1.
• Round 8: P1, k2, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k1, s2kp, k1, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k2, p1. You now have 27 stitches.
• Round 9: P1, RT, p1, k19, p1, LT, p1.
• Round 10: P1, k2, p1, k1, yo, (k2tog) twice, k3, yo, s2kp, yo, k3, (ssk) twice, yo, k1, p1, k2, p1. You now have 25 stitches.
• Round 11: P1, k2, p1, k17, p1, k2, p1.
• Round 12: P1, RT, p1, k1, yo, (k2tog) three times, (k1, yo) twice, k1, (ssk) three times, yo, k1, p1, LT, p1. You now have 23 stitches.
• Repeat Rounds 1–10 once more.

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• With scrap yarn and crochet hook, chain 20 and set aside for thumb gusset.
• Round 1: On Needle 1, work 9 stitches in rib as established and place last 5 stitches worked on holder; work last 3 stitches on needle in rib. On Needles 2 and 3, continue in patterns as established.
• Round 2: On Needle 1, work 4 stitches in rib as established, place marker, k13 into crochet chain as for provisional cast on (see page 297), place marker, work last 3 stitches on needle in rib. On Needles 2 and 3, work in patterns as established to end of round. You now have 20 stitches total on Needle 1 and 13 stitches between thumb gusset markers.
• Rounds 3 and 4: Keeping the thumb gusset stitches in stockinette stitch and other stitches in patterns as established, work 2 rounds even.
• Round 5 (Decrease Round): Work 4 rib stitches, slip marker, k2tog tbl, knit to 2 stitches before next gusset marker, k2tog, slip marker, work in patterns as established to end of round — 2 gusset stitches decreased.
• Repeat Rounds 3–5 three more times. You now have 12 stitches total on Needle 1 and 5 stitches between thumb gusset markers.
• Resume working all stitches on Needle 1 in rib pattern, and continue in patterns as established until five repeats of 12-round Triple Leaf pattern have been completed from the beginning.

Knitting the Cuff Smocking

• Repeat Rounds 1–13 of top smocking.
• Bind off in rib.

Knitting the Thumb

• Carefully remove the crochet-chain scrap yarn, place 13 stitches from the base of the provisional cast on onto the needle, and join the yarn at end of these stitches. Pick up and knit (see page 297) 3 stitches before the stitches on the holder to close any gaps, k5 from holder, pick up and knit 3 stitches after stitches just worked to close any gaps. You now have 24 stitches.
• Rounds 1–5: Knit.
• Round 6: *K2tog, k6; repeat from * to end of round. You now have 21 stitches.
• Rounds 7 and 8: Knit.
• Round 9: *K2tog, k5; repeat from * to end of round. You now have 18 stitches.
• Round 10: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Bind off in rib.

Knitting the Left Mitt

• Work as for right mitt to the thumb gusset.

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• With scrap yarn and crochet hook, chain 20 and set aside for thumb gusset.
• Round 1: On Needles 1 and 2, work in patterns as established. On Needle 3, work 8 stitches in rib as established, place last 5 stitches worked on holder, work last 5 stitches in rib as established.
• Round 2: On Needles 1 and 2, work in patterns. On Needle 3, work 3 stitches in rib as established, place marker, k13 into crochet chain as for provisional cast on, place marker, work last 5 stitches on needle in rib. You now have 21 stitches total on Needle 3 and 13 stitches between thumb gusset markers.
• Rounds 3 and 4: Keeping the thumb gusset stitches in stockinette stitch and other stitches in patterns as established, work 2 rounds even.
• Round 5 (Decrease Round): On Needles 1 and 2, work in pattern. On Needle 3, work 3 rib stitches, slip marker, k2tog tbl, knit to 2 stitches before next thumb marker, k2tog, slip marker, work 5 rib stitches — 2 gusset stitches decreased.
• Repeat Rounds 3–5 three more times. You now have 13 stitches total on Needle 3 and 5 stitches between thumb gusset markers.
• Resume working all stitches on Needle 3 in rib pattern, and continue in patterns as established until five repeats of 12-round Triple Leaf pattern have been completed from the beginning.
• Work cuff smocking and thumb as for right mitt.

Finishing

• Weave in ends. Block lightly, if desired.

Vine Lace Fingerless Gloves

Designed by Ohmay Designs

Knit these gloves in the round without a thumb gusset — you’ll leave an opening for the thumb where you’ll pick up and knit thumb stitches. An optional cord between the second and third fingers keeps the mitts in place.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 7"/18 cm circumference and 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm long
• Yarn: Grignasco Cuzco 2, 60% extra fine merino wool/40% superfine alpaca, 109 yds (100 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color 6610 Natural
• Needles: Set of five US 6 (4 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 20¹⁄₂ stitches and 26 rounds = 4"/10 cm in Vine Lace pattern
• Other Supplies: Stitch marker, stitch holder, crochet hook similar in size to knitting needles (optional), yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Vine Lace (multiple of 9 stitches)

Rounds 1 and 3: Knit.

Round 2: *Yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4: *K1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo; repeat from * to end of round.

Knitting the Left Glove

• Cast on 36 stitches and divide onto four double-point needles. Place marker and join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches; round begins on thumb side of hand, at start of back-of-hand stitches. Work Vine Lace pattern for 5¹⁄₂"/14 cm, ending with Round 3 of pattern.

  Note: Take care that you do not accidentally drop any yarnovers that occur at the ends of the needles.

Creating the Thumb Opening

• Next Round (counts as Round 4 of pattern): K1, (yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1) twice, yo, k2, ssk; k6 and place on holder; k3, k2tog, k2, yo. You now have 30 stitches on needles and 6 stitches on hold.
• Next Round (counts as Round 1 of pattern): Knit to thumb opening, cast on 6 stitches across gap, knit to end of round. You now have 36 stitches.
• Next Round (counts as Round 2 of pattern): (Yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1) twice, yo, k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k2, yo, k1.

Finishing the Hand

• Beginning with Round 3, resume working Vine Lace pattern as established on all stitches. Continue in pattern until piece measures 1¹⁄₂"/4 cm from thumb opening, ending with Round 2 or 4 of pattern.
• Bind off with 3-stitch attached I-cord (see page 292).
• Optional: Crochet a chain of 4 or 5 stitches connecting the back of hand with the palm between the second and third fingers.

Knitting the Thumb

• Place the 6 stitches from the holder onto a needle. With WS facing, attach yarn to beginning of these stitches and purl 1 WS row. Turn work so RS is facing.
• Round 1: K6, pick up and knit (see page 297) 10 stitches evenly from base of stitches cast on across the thumb opening. Place marker and join to work in the round. You now have 16 stitches.
• Rounds 2–8: Knit.
• Bind off all stitches.

Knitting the Right Glove

• Work as for left glove to thumb opening, ending with Round 3 of pattern; round begins on the thumb side of the hand, at the start of the palm stitches.

Creating the Thumb Opening

• Next Round (counts as Round 4 of pattern): K1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, k6 and place on holder; k2tog, k2, yo, (k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo) twice. You now have 30 stitches on needle and 6 stitches on hold.
• Next Round (counts as Round 1 of pattern): Knit to thumb opening, cast on 6 stitches across gap, knit to end of round. You now have 36 stitches.
• Next Round (counts as Round 2 of pattern): Yo, k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, (yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1) twice.

Finishing the Hand and Thumb

• Beginning with Round 3 of pattern, finish hand as for left glove. Work thumb as for left glove.

Finishing

• Weave in ends. Wash and block.

Travel-Worthy Mitts

Designed by Sarah Jean Hood

Luxury and function go hand in hand with these lovely cashmere mitts. Travel worthy for their lightness and warmth, they provide both wrist and knuckle coverage. One skein is enough for two pairs of mitts.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 6³⁄₄"/17 cm circumference and 8¹⁄₂"/21.5 cm long
• Yarn: Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 2-Ply, 100% cashmere, 400 yds (366 m)/ 1.9 oz (55 g), Color 61 Blue Spruce
• Needles: Set of US 3 (3.25 mm) double-point needles or long circular for magic loop or size you need to obtain correct gauge

  Needles one size larger for cast on

• Gauge: 28 stitches and 44 rounds = 4"/10 cm in cuff pattern, slightly stretched
• Other Supplies: Stitch markers, small stitch holder, yarn needle

Knitting the Left Mitt

• With larger double-point needles, cast on 48 stitches using knitted-on cast on (see page 294). Note: A loose cast on allows the edge to naturally zigzag. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches; round begins at the pinky side of the hand, at the start of the palm stitches.

Knitting the Cuff

Note: The s2kp (centered double decrease) at the beginning of Round 4 uses the last stitch of Round 3 and the first 2 stitches of Round 4. The end-of-round marker is repositioned at the end of Round 3 so all the stitches of the s2kp will be on the same side of the marker. To reposition the marker, knit to the last stitch in Round 3, temporarily slip the last stitch to the right-hand needle, remove the marker, return the slipped stitch to the left-hand needle, and replace the marker.

• Round 1: Knit. Change to smaller double-point needles.
• Round 2: *S2kp, (k1, yo) twice, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 3: Knit to the last stitch, reposition marker at end of round (see Note above).
• Round 4: *S2kp, (k1, yo) twice, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Rounds 5–10: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 three more times.
• Round 11: Knit to the last stitch, reposition marker at end of round.

Knitting the Wrist

• Round 12: *S2kp, (k1, yo) twice, k1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Rounds 13–15: Knit.
• Round 16: *K1, yo, k1, s2kp, k1, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
• Rounds 17–19: Knit, repositioning the marker at end of Round 19 only.
• Rounds 20–44: Repeat Rounds 12–19 three more times, then work Round 12 once more.

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• Round 45: K17, place marker, work Round 45 of Thumb chart over 7 stitches, place marker, k24.

  Thumb

  
• Rounds 46 and 47: Knit to thumb marker, slip marker, work next round of Thumb chart, slip marker, knit to end.
• Round 48: (P2, k1 tbl) five times, p2, slip marker, work next round of Thumb chart, slip marker, work Round 1 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches.

  Back-of-Hand

  
• Rounds 49–57: Working first 17 stitches in established p2, k1 tbl rib pattern for the palm, continue chart patterns for thumb and back of hand, ending with Round 57 of Thumb chart and Round 2 of Back-of-Hand chart. You now have 19 stitches between the thumb markers and 60 stitches total.
• Round 58: Work established rib pattern over 17 palm stitches, remove thumb marker, k1 tbl (first thumb stitch), slip next 17 stitches to small stitch holder, cast on 5 stitches using backward loop method (see page 290), k1 tbl (last thumb stitch), remove thumb marker, work Round 3 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches. You now have 48 stitches.
• Round 59: (P2, k1 tbl) eight times for palm, work Round 4 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches.
• Rounds 60–90: Continue in established patterns, ending with Round 3 of Back-of-Hand chart.
• Rounds 91–95: (P2, k1 tbl) 16 times.
• Bind off all stitches knitwise.

Knitting the Thumb

• Transfer the 17 held stitches to smaller needles. Join yarn to beginning of stitches with RS facing, (p2, k1 tbl) five times, p2, pick up and knit (see page 297) 1 stitch before the stitches cast on across thumb gap, 5 stitches from base of cast on, and 1 stitch after cast-on stitches. You now have 24 stitches.
• Rounds 1–12: *P2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to end of round.
• Bind off all stitches knitwise. Weave in ends.

Knitting the Right Mitt

• Work cuff and wrist as for left mitt. Round begins at the pinky side of the hand, at the start of the back-of-hand stitches.

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• Round 45: K24, place marker, work Round 45 of Thumb chart over 7 stitches, place marker, k17.
• Rounds 46 and 47: Knit to thumb marker, slip marker, work next round of Thumb chart, slip marker, knit to end.
• Round 48: Work Round 1 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches, slip marker, work next round of Thumb chart, slip marker, (p2, k1 tbl) five times, p2.
• Rounds 49–57: Working last 17 stitches in established p2, k1 tbl rib pattern for palm, continue chart patterns for thumb and back of hand, ending with Round 57 of Thumb chart and Round 2 of Back-of-Hand chart. You now have 19 stitches between the thumb markers and 60 stitches total.
• Round 58: Work Round 3 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches, remove thumb marker, k1 tbl (first thumb stitch), slip next 17 stitches to small stitch holder, cast on 5 stitches using backward loop method, k1 tbl (last thumb stitch), remove thumb marker, work established rib pattern over 17 palm stitches. You now have 48 stitches.
• Round 59: Work Round 4 of Back-of-Hand chart over 24 stitches, (k1 tbl, p2) eight times for the palm.
• Rounds 60–90: Continue in established patterns, ending with Round 3 of Back-of-Hand chart.
• Rounds 91–95: (K1 tbl, p2) 16 times.
• Bind off all stitches knitwise.

Knitting the Thumb

• Work as for left thumb.

Pine Needle Mittens

Designed by Jenise Reid

With stockinette stitch on the palm and a lace pattern on the back of the hand, these mittens are both lovely and practical. They feature an “afterthought” thumb so you can place it exactly where you want it. Since you have to snip the knitting, this method is not for wimps! Pair the mittens with the Pine Needle Toque on page 16.

• Finished Measurements: 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm circumference and 11"/28 cm long
• Yarn: Knit Picks Palette, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, 231 yds (211 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color Bittersweet Heather
• Needles: Set of five US 3 (3.25) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 23 stitches and 32 rounds = 4"/10 cm in stockinette stitch
• Other Supplies: Yarn needle

Knitting the Mittens (make 2)

• Cast on 44 stitches and divide evenly onto four double-point needles. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Work Rounds 1–19 of chart.

  Pine Needle Mittens

  
• Next Round: Work Round 20 of chart, decreasing as shown. You now have 33 stitches. Cuff measures about 3"/ 7.5 cm from deepest point on back of hand.
• Work Rounds 21–25 of chart once.
• Next Round: Work Round 26 of chart, increasing as shown. You now have 44 stitches.
• Work Rounds 29–36 five times for mittens pictured. Note: To adjust length, repeat Rounds 29–36 more or fewer times as desired; every 8-round repeat added or removed lengthens or shortens the mitten hand by about 1"/2.5 cm.
• Work Rounds 37–42 of chart once; piece measures about 9¹⁄₂"/24 cm from deepest point on back of hand, or 1¹⁄₂"/4 cm less than desired length.
• Work Rounds 43–55 of chart. You now have 11 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving an 8"/20.5 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in end.

Adding the Thumbs

• Try mittens on and mark where your thumbs begin on the side of each mitten. Check that they match, adjusting one mitten or the other if necessary. Make sure you mark one mitten for the right hand and the other for the left hand.
• Pick up and knit (see page 297) 9 palm stitches in the row above the marked thumb position, then use a separate needle to pick up and knit 9 palm stitches in the row below the marker; these stitches should begin next to the lace pattern on the back of the hand and extend into the stockinette palm. You should have 1 row between the picked-up stitches.
• Hold your breath, lift the center stitch of the row between the picked-up stitches with the tip of the scissors, and snip it. Unravel the yarn from the snipped center outward until all of the picked-up stitches have been freed. Tie the working yarn to one of the ends you just unraveled and knit the first 9 thumb stitches. Tie the other unraveled end to the working yarn and knit the remaining 9 thumb stitches. You now have 18 stitches.
• Knit all stitches until the thumb measures 2¹⁄₂"/6.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: *K3tog; repeat from * to end of round. You now have 6 stitches.
• Knit 1 round. Cut yarn, leaving an 8"/20.5 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure.
• Weave in ends. Block.

Flutter Mitts

Designed by Jenise Reid

These mittens are named for the way the lace ribbing flutters back and forth. They are knit in the round, and the lace continues from the ribbing to outline the sides of each mitten. Pair these with the Flutter Toque shown on page 31.

• Finished Measurements: 8"/20.5 cm hand circumference and 9¹⁄₂"/24 cm long
• Yarn: Knit Picks Sugarbunny, 80% merino wool/ 20% angora, 136 yds (124 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Topaz
• Needles: Set of five US 4 (3.5 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 18 stitches and 26 rounds = 4"/10 cm in stockinette stitch
• Other Supplies: Scrap yarn for thumb opening, yarn needle

Knitting the Cuff

• Cast on 36 stitches and divide evenly onto four double-point needles. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
• Round 1: *K2tog, yo, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 2: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 3: *Yo, ssk, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
• Rounds 5–14: Repeat Rounds 1–4 twice, then work Rounds 1 and 2 once more.
• Round 15: *Yo, ssk, (p1, ssk) five times, p1; repeat from * once more; cuff measures about 2"/5 cm. You now have 26 stitches.

Knitting the Hand

• Rounds 16 and 18: (K2, p1, k9, p1) twice.
• Round 17: (K2tog, yo, p1, k9, p1) twice.
• Round 19: *Yo, ssk, p1, (M1R, k2) four times, M1R, k1, p1; repeat from * once more. You now have 36 stitches.
• Round 20: (K2, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 21: (K2tog, yo, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 22: (K2, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 23: (Yo, ssk, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 24: Repeat Round 22.
• Rounds 25–38: Repeat Rounds 21–24 three more times, then work Rounds 21 and 22 once more; piece measures about 5¹⁄₂"/14 cm. Note: To adjust the position of the thumb opening, repeat Rounds 21–24 more or fewer times before working Rounds 21 and 22; every 4 rounds added or removed lengthen or shorten the piece by about ¹⁄₂"/13 mm.

Reserving the Thumb Stitches

• Work Round 39 for the right or left hand as follows to mark thumb placement.

  For the right hand: Yo, ssk, p1, use scrap yarn to knit the next 6 stitches, return the stitches just worked to the left-hand needle and knit them again using the main yarn, k8, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k14, p1.

  For the left hand: Yo, ssk, p1, k8, use scrap yarn to knit the next 6 stitches, return the stitches just worked to the left-hand needle and knit them again using the main yarn, p1, yo, ssk, p1, k14, p1.

Knitting the Upper Hand

• Round 40: (K2, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 41: (K2tog, yo, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Round 42: Repeat Round 40.
• Round 43: (Yo, ssk, p1, k14, p1) twice.
• Rounds 44–57: Repeat Rounds 40–43 three more times, then work Rounds 40 and 41 once more; piece measures about 8¹⁄₂"/21.5 cm. Note: To adjust the length, repeat Rounds 40–43 more or fewer times before working Rounds 40 and 41; every 4 rounds added or removed lengthen or shorten the hand by about ¹⁄₂"/13 mm.

Shaping the Mitten Top

• Round 58: (K2, p1, k2tog, k10, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 32 stitches.
• Round 59: (Yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, k8, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 28 stitches.
• Round 60: (K2, p1, k2tog, k6, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 24 stitches.
• Round 61: (K2tog, yo, p1, k2tog, k4, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 20 stitches.
• Round 62: (K2, p1, k2tog, k2, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 16 stitches.
• Round 63: (Yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) twice. You now have 12 stitches.
• Round 64: *K2, (p2tog) twice; repeat from * once more. You now have 8 stitches.

Cut yarn, leaving an 8"/20.5 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure on WS.

Knitting the Thumb

• Carefully remove scrap yarn from the thumb opening and place 6 stitches from the base of the opening on one needle and 7 stitches from the top of the opening on another needle. You now have 13 stitches.
• Redistribute stitches as evenly as possible on three or four needles, and join yarn at side of opening with RS facing. Work in stockinette stitch until thumb measures 2"/5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: (K1, k2tog) four times, k1. You now have 9 stitches.
• Next Round: (K2tog) four times, k1. You now have 5 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving an 8" (20.5 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure on WS.

Finishing

• Weave in ends and block.

Damask Lace Gloves

Designed by Yumiko Sakurai

These delicate and feminine gloves are knitted in lace-weight yarn with simple lace stitches on the cuffs. The finger lengths can be adjusted to fit several sizes. The gloves are ambidextrous — both knitted exactly alike.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm hand circumference
• Yarn: Malabrigo Lace, 100% baby merino wool, 470 yds (430 m)/ 1.75 oz (50 g), Color 130 Damask
• Needles: Sets of five US 3 (3.25 mm) and US 1 (2.25 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 38 stitches and 52 rounds = 4"/10 cm in stockinette stitch with smaller needles
• Other Supplies: Stitch markers, scrap yarn for holders, yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Damask Lace (multiple of 18 stitches)

Round 1: *K3, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 2, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.

Round 3: *K2, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 5: *K3, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k7; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 7: *K2, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k8; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Rounds 1–8 for pattern.

Knitting the Cuff

• Using larger needles, cast on 72 stitches loosely. Distribute stitches evenly onto 4 double-point neeldes, place marker and join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches; round begins at little finger side of hand. Purl 1 round.
• Working from text or chart, work Rounds 1–8 of Damask Lace three times (24 rounds completed).

  Damask Lace

  
• Change to smaller needles and work Rounds 1–8 of Damask Lace once.
• Continuing with smaller needles, work in stockinette stitch for 4 rounds.

Note: Use smaller needles for rest of hand, fingers, and thumb.

Knitting the Thumb Gusset

• Round 1: K35, place marker, M1R, k2, M1L, place marker, k35. You now have 4 stitches between the gusset markers.
• Rounds 2 and 3: Knit.
• Round 4: K35, slip marker, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, k35 — 2 stitches increased between the gusset markers.
• Repeat Rounds 2–4 eight more times. You now have 22 stitches between the gusset markers.
• Knit 2 rounds.

Reserving the Thumb Stitches

• K35, remove marker, place next 22 stitches on scrap yarn to hold, remove marker, cast on 3 stitches, k35. You now have 73 stitches on the needles for the hand and 22 stitches on scrap yarn for the thumb.

Knitting the Upper Hand

• Work all stitches in stockinette stitch for 1"/2.5 cm above where thumb stitches were put on hold, or until hand reaches base of little finger.

Knitting the Little Finger

• Next Round: K8, place next 57 stitches on scrap yarn to hold, cast on 2 stitches, k8. You now have 18 stitches for the little finger.
• Distribute stitches onto 3 double-point needles, place marker, and work little finger in stockinette stitch until it measures 2¹⁄₄"/5.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: (K2tog, k1) six times. You now have 12 stitches.
• Next Round: Knit.
• Next Round: K2tog six times. You now have 6 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in the end.

Continuing the Hand

• Attach new yarn to the beginning of the held stitches with RS facing, k57 stitches from scrap yarn, pick up and knit (see page 297) 2 stitches from base of little finger. You now have 59 stitches. Distribute evenly onto 4 double-point needles, place marker, and work in stockinette stitch for ¹⁄₄"/6 mm or desired length to base of ring finger.

Knitting the Ring Finger

• Next Round: K10, place next 39 stitches on scrap yarn, cast on 2 stitches, and knit remaining 10 stitches. You now have 22 stitches on needles for the ring finger.
• Distribute evenly onto 3 double-point needles, place marker and work even in stockinette stitch until finger measures 3"/7.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: K2tog 11 times. You now have 11 stitches.
• Next Round: Knit.
• Next Round: K2tog five times, k1. You now have 6 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in the end.

Knitting the Middle Finger

• Attach new yarn to beginning of held stitches with RS facing, k39 stitches from scrap yarn, pick up and knit 2 stitches from the base of the ring finger. You now have 41 stitches for the hand.
• Place marker and work in stockinette stitch for 2 rounds or desired length to base of middle finger.
• Next Round: K10, place next 21 stitches on scrap yarn, cast on 3 stitches, and knit remaining 10 stitches. You now have 23 stitches on needles for the middle finger.
• Distribute evenly onto 3 double-point needles, place marker and work even in stockinette stitch until finger measures 3¹⁄₄"/8.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: K2tog 11 times, k1. You now have 12 stitches.
• Next Round: Knit.
• Next Round: K2tog six times. You now have 6 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in the end.

Knitting the Index Finger

• Attach new yarn to beginning of held stitches with RS facing, k21 stitches from scrap yarn, pick up and knit 3 stitches from base of middle finger. You now have 24 stitches on needles for the index finger.
• Distribute evenly onto 3 double-point needles, place marker and work even in stockinette stitch until finger measures 3"/7.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: K2tog 12 times. You now have 12 stitches.
• Next Round: Knit.
• Next Round: K2tog six times. You now have 6 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in the end.

Knitting the Thumb

• Attach new yarn to beginning of held thumb stitches with RS facing, knit 22 stitches from scrap yarn, pick up and knit 3 stitches from the base of the stitches cast on across the thumb gap. You now have 25 stitches on needles for the thumb.
• Distribute evenly onto 3 double-point needles, place marker and work even in stockinette stitch until thumb measures 2¹⁄₂"/6.5 cm or ¹⁄₄"/6 mm less than desired length.
• Next Round: K2tog 12 times, k1. You now have 13 stitches.
• Next Round: Knit.
• Next Round: K2tog six times, k1. You now have 7 stitches.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 6"/15 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and draw through remaining stitches; pull up snugly and secure. Weave in the end.

Finishing

• Close any openings at base of fingers using yarn tails. Weave in all ends, block.
• Make a second glove like the first.

Spicy Lace Cuffs

Designed by Rebecca Mercier

Add a feminine touch to any outfit with these lace cuffs. Wear them ruffle up over the end of a plain sleeve, or wear them ruffle down to peek out from under a larger sleeve. The pattern is written for two circular needles, but you can use double-point needles if you prefer.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 5"/12.5 cm circumference at wrist, unstretched, and 5"/12.5 cm long
• Yarn: SWTC Tofutsies, 50% superwash wool/ 25% Soysilk/22.5% cotton/2.5% chitin, 465 yds (425 m)/3.5 oz (100 g), Color 938 TOEtally TOEmented
• Needles: Two US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needles 16"/ 40 cm long or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 28 stitches and 36 rounds = 4"/10 cm in stockinette stitch; 33¹⁄₂ stitches and 45 rounds = 4"/10 cm in pattern from Rounds 22 and 23 of chart, unstretched
• Other Supplies: Yarn needle

Knitting the Cuffs (make 2)

• Cast on 114 stitches and divide evenly onto two circular needles. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Knitting the Picot Edge

• Rounds 1–5: Knit.
• Round 6 (Picot Fold Line): *K2tog, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
• Rounds 7–11: Knit.

Knitting the Ruffle

• Work Rounds 1–21 of chart once, working the chart pattern six times in each round, and decreasing as shown. You have 42 stitches after completing Round 19.

  Ruffle and Wrist

  

Knitting the Wrist

• Work Rounds 22 and 23 fifteen times.
• Bind off loosely.

Finishing

• Fold edge of ruffle to WS along Picot Fold Line, and sew hem invisibly in place; this creates the lovely picot edge along the belled end of each cuff. Weave in ends. Block.